Category: 0 Georgia - The Beth Lists

Southern Soul in Saint Simons, GA

3/9/2017

Good Name

When Don and I visited Saint Simons Island last year, we hoped to find a local favorite for lunch. Then we learned about this place, with the comfy name. We found out it had been spotlighted on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, so that made the decision easy. We arrived close to 11:00, since we heard the place gets a big lunch crowd.

Once a Gas Station?

We'd heard this yummy little "dive" had once been a gas station. I love well-worn buildings that are cleverly converted. But when we pulled up, the building looked too darn fresh and cute to be old.

Inside

I don't usually complain about places being too clean. But where was the charm of the old gas station?

Regulars
At least there were a lot of fellas that filled up the bar stools. Maybe they were talking cars or the price of gas.

Actually I stopped complaining about this new diner pretending to be old, when I learned about the fire. In 2010, not long after Guy Fieri filmed his piece for Food Network, the original Southern Soul burned to the ground. It had indeed been a gas station. Luckily the cooks and staff got out in time and they were able to rebuild.

A Table!

There were plenty of picnic tables outside, but it was too cold and windy. We snatched an inside table right next to a young mama and her baby stroller. Another table of dining girlfriends yakked and giggled nearby.

This was clearly not a place where you get a medal of dining bravery. But that's okay. We were there for the good food reviews as much anything.

Stew and Sandwich!
Don was eager to give the "Pig Sandwich" a try. The pulled pork and coleslaw was sweet and crunchy, with lots of options for sauce.

I was eager to try the Brunswick stew. I'd heard about the famous food from a Georgian a year before. My little Styrofoam container was packed with smoked meat, tomatoes, butter beans and corn. It was indeed yummy.

Sauce

I'm the last one in my family to tell you which BBQ sauce to choose. When we've had our own sauce tasting gatherings, I end up drawing pictures on my score sheet. But I will tell you, I like the name Red Swine Wine best.

Decor

Even though the tables and stools gave the diner an "eat and get going" feel, there were some homey touches. Yes, there were pigs and goats and that always gives me a boost! Maybe I'll visit again.

Narobia's Grits and Gravy

10/8/2016

Savannah, GA

I learned about this place from my sister's blog, but it also seemed to be getting some Yelp attention when we visited last January.

Saturday

The tiny place was off the beaten tourist path, so we never would have stumbled across it. We heard there was often a wait, so we arrived about 9 on Saturday morning.

I have a feeling the cold weather may have also slowed down the crowds, a bit.

Warm and Cozy Inside

My blurry photo shows how packed the place was by 9. There was quite a bit of serious eating going on.

And quite a few picking up carry outs, as well. There was a lot of movement behind that counter!

Breakfast Time

There were only about 4 tables and 4 booths, so we were lucky to be seated. Our table was near where the food action was taking place. About 9 employees bustled around near the sizzling grill, cooking, carrying or hollering out orders. The coffee tasted good on a cold morning, but there was only powered creamer. That's okay. Our meal made up for that!

Biscuits and Gravy

I ordered the biscuits and gravy, since that's what everyone raves about! What a surprise to have these heavenly biscuits with a brown, sausage gravy! The non-creamy gravy, with sausage and savory seasonings made me feel I was enjoying a little Thanksgiving, actually. Works for me!

Shrimp and Grits

Don is not a grits kind of guy, but how could he resist. Narobia's gets one of the best ratings for soul food, so he couldn't go wrong. I loved the bites I stole... lots of grilled onion and green pepper, along with shrimp! I just wish the place hadn't been so busy so I could have asked a question or 2. I sure didn't want to slow the place down!

Snow?

By the time we finished our meal and gave our table over to others, a light snow was falling. It was a fun moment when all the customers and some staff looked out to see the big flakes. I didn't exactly capture the snow in the photo, but it felt like the perfect winter morning for a big breakfast.

Candy & Beer in Savannah

10/7/2016

Night # 3

Last January, Don and I spent 3 days exploring old Savannah. Our last day was drizzly, but it only added to the character of the waterfront and buildings, like the Savannah Cotton Exchange.

By evening, we were in a wandering mood. One of those times neither one of us could make a good decision.

Playing Tourist

The weather grew chilly and few were around the touristy City Market area. The giant ice cream cones didn't lure us in as much as the copper kettle hanging over the door. The idea of candy actually cooking, sounded warm.

Don posed with the colorful candy and we bought some pralines and other goodies and then, we wandered more.
Crystal Beer Parlor
We shivered in the dreary weather and headed towards this old brick building on West Jones.

We had 2 good reasons to give the Crystal Parlor a try. First of all, it was within walking distance of our small hotel. That's a huge plus. And we were told it was a place where locals hang out and that can be a good thing.

Gerken Family Grocery Store

In the early 1900's this was a family run grocery store, with the family living upstairs. It wasn't until 1933 that the Mannings bought the place and turned it into the Crystal Beer Parlor. It's rumored that the Parlor operated a speakeasy during prohibition. That may or may not be true, but we do know the place was well loved by locals, who came for 10-cent beers and 30-cent grilled burgers!

Cozy

It was a Friday when we arrived, so things were already hopping. Obviously a lot of people had come straight from work. It felt a little like the bar in Cheers.

2 Seats

Don and I were able to grab 2 seats at the bar. The red vinyl booths were all taken and the long wooden bar felt welcoming enough.

Beer at the Bar

Don made use of the fact we were at a beer parlor. Most of the people around us were drinking beer, but there was quite a bit of feasting, too. The hamburgers looked wonderful. I learned later, that many consider them the best in Savannah.

Photos!

I love a bar or restaurant with lots of old photos. One image reminded me of my brother's old cartoon drawings and it gave me a very silly reason to strike up a conversation with the ponytailed man sitting beside me. After he left, a nurse took his seat and we talked about her life in Maine and what it was like to move to the south 15 years ago. It was nice that people were talking with each other and not staring at cell phones for a change.

Exploring

I went on a little exploring mission after a while and found the Monroe Room, with lots of old photos. Monroe Whitlock and "Smitty" Smith were well loved servers at The Parlor for over 45 years. What does that tell you when a restaurant names a room after an employee? And I also loved this photo of lyricist, Johnny Mercer with the young boy... who looks very much like Don as a kid.

Savannah is very proud of their Native Son, Johnny. We found his image on park benches and plaques here and there. I'm guessing he was a fan of Crystal Parlor back in the day.

I'm feeling really bad now, that we didn't end up trying one of those burgers or some She Crab Soup. We failed on our last night to have any real dining adventure, but we did find good atmosphere.

Boar's Head in Savannah

10/5/2016

Since 1959

Here is the impressive wooden door where we entered Boar's Head Tavern, last January.

The building was just a minute walk from our hotel, which was also in a restored cotton warehouse on the Savannah Riverfront.

From Low to High

We walked by the corner restaurant a number of times during our stay. The stone path from the river, took us right by the green and white awning each time we headed towards the main road above the bluff.

The Name

It was hard not to think of deli meats with a name like Boar's Head, but we were eager to give the place a try.

Interior

The place may have been a tavern since the fifties, but the brick walls and beamed ceilings brought back the feel of the cotton warehouse days, many years before.

I was glad to see there was a boar mounted on the wall. There was a reason for the name... besides deli meats.

The Bar

It was too dark to see the view of the river out the windows, but we were entertained by our bartender and the other guests instead. The couple beside us, told us about recently seeing the Northern Lights in Iceland and some other travel stories. We had nothing to top that, so we asked our bartender about some history. As she cupped her hands around a mug of tea, she actually did have quite a bit of history to share.

A Drink and History

Our bartender fixed Don this retro looking drink and told us about Chef Philip Branan, who bought Boar's Head some years back. She explained how the building (a portion of it was built in 1780) used to be owned by many different businesses, which can get pretty complicated. Chef Philip started his career working in Savannah restaurants at age 15. Evidently he was trained at The Culinary Institute in NY, before returning to his roots in Savannah.

One of 3 Rooms

The tavern dining room had a view of the kitchen, but I didn't get a good glimpse of the chef. It was an odd arrangement with tables and captain's chairs that could have come from a 1970's Red Lobster. And then there was the chandelier hanging from exposed beams.

Back Room

The back room was the coziest, but a large party was filling it for a while. After they departed, we got to roam around and study the view of the river and ballast stone and brick walls.

Ship Ladies

Don found some decor he liked. Lots of reminders of the ships that once carried the cotton away from Savannah.

Our Meal

So we got to find out if the food was as good as we'd heard. It actually was pretty amazing. Our very sweet server, Daniel gave us lots of suggestions. We ended up with chicken Caesar salad, incredibly rich spinach salad and the most amazing platter of grilled mushrooms.

Great Food & Curious Atmosphere

I will always, remember the excellent food and the somewhat quirky atmosphere. I'm actually glad it hasn't been spiffed up with trendy tables to accent the stone and brick. I'm glad it felt low key and comfortable... of course we were there off season.

Mostly I'm glad we traveled the stone path to reach the stairway to the street ... or we might not have come across the cozy place! Gotta love Old Savannah!

Gary Lee's Market and BBQ

9/23/2016

Brunswick, Georgia

Don and I were determined to find this market last January, when driving through Georgia. I have no idea what our GPS issues were, but we were guided to a sketchy neighborhood, where 7 men stood outside a liquor store, while police car lights flashed.

Onward

We were glad to know there had been an error. We were 18 minutes off course, but eventually found the Market on US Highway 82. The building lacked glamour, but the trucks hinted at hungry workmen... who know good food.

BBQ and Meat Market

The main focus in the market was the case with barbecue! The food is what we had heard about.

There were lots of meat options, that smelled pretty heavenly... chicken, smoked wings, ribs, pulled pork and brisket...

The Lee's

I so hope I got this right. I think Corey is the grandson of the original owner. His dad, Gary Jr. is in the blue. They both greeted us with Southern hospitality. Evidently this was an old grocery store that turned into a meat market in 1968. I love a business with family history!

Decor

And I love some good decoration, as well! There were a lot of pigs tucked here and there. As you can see there was also a pheasant and a nativity scene. Interesting.

Of course there were shelves of barbecue sauces and rubs. That's what we should have been looking at.

And Color

I'm not good at naming color shades, but those are 2 mighty fine colored walls. I just didn't expect snazzy colors and artwork, when we pulled up to the Market. And family tables! Gotta love.

BBQ and Stew

Don is the barbecue lover, so he was in heaven with his ribs and brisket. I on the other hand was especially excited about the Brunswick Stew. In 2015, Don and I met a man from Georgia, while visiting Guatemala. He told us all about this stew, packed with meat and veggies. It was very thick and yummy, especially on chilly January day.

Shopping?

We could have purchased some bread or sweets for the road, but we just told our pig friend good bye and headed down the road. It was definitely worth the stop... even with our major detour.

The Olde Pink House in Georgia

9/8/2016

A Savannah Landmark

Last January, Don and I stayed at a hotel adjacent to this fun landmark of Savannah.

The Olde Pink House was not always this color. In 1771, when wealthy planter, James Habersham, Jr. built the mansion, the exterior was brick.

The house became known as the Pink House, when the soft native brick began to bleed through the plaster, changing the wall color. Eventually pink painted stucco covered the brick.

Cookbook

As usual, we were traveling with our vintage cookbook, for dining adventure inspiration. There was only one listing for the state of Georgia in the book and it happened to be for a Tea Room, right next to our hotel. However, we could have overlooked the page, since it was called The Georgian Tea Room, in our 1950 book. Evidently the house, became many things between the time it was a home and a tea room.

Over the Years

After checking into our hotel, we wandered over to have a peek. We walked up to the Greek portico, which was evidently added when the home became a bank in 1811. During the Civil War, it became headquarters for Union General York. The building held law offices and many other things before in became The Georgian Tea Room in 1929.

Inside

When we wandered in, it was 4 pm, but a welcoming staff invited us to look around. The hostess pointed out the steep stairway with the narrow twist. "They used to tax the number of stairs and doorways." She explained.

We headed up to see the dining rooms on the second floor.

Palladiam Window

The view of the beautiful arched window was sort of blocked by flags on the outside. Once upstairs we could see the diamond panes and window seat and the view of trees in Reynolds Square. Luckily the mansion was spared in 1796, when fire destroyed much of Savannah.

Dining Rooms

The first dining room we entered was elegant and formal. I could picture ladies having tea here in 1929 when it first opened as a tea room.

Chandeliers...

In the 1990's the Pink House was totally renovated, so the wood floors and chandeliers were spotless. Our waiter told us later that there are only 2 employees who are allowed to clean the chandeliers.

Fireplaces...

I kind of liked the purple, corner room with white fireplace warming things up. But it was awfully formal. We were not traveling with dress clothes.

Favorite

We asked the hostess which was her favorite room and she said "The Office" which did indeed look the coziest. There was no fireplace, but the small room felt more comfortable with the wood beams and white painted brick walls.

The Tavern

We walked to the basement to see the Tavern before it opened. When the mansion became "Planter's Bank" in 1811, iron vaults were added in the basement. Today the vaults store wine. We also heard rumors that Mr. Habersham hung himself in this basement and there is much ghostly activity. Not sure about that.

Back to Enjoy

We returned at 7:30 and had our name put down for an 8:30 dinner. We got the last 2 chairs at the bar and took in the great atmosphere, lit by 2 fireplaces and numerous real candles.

Music and Candles

The tavern was pretty full by the time this fine woman started up at the grand piano. She wore a black feathered hat and white fur. She also seemed to be wearing black gloves, but I couldn't see her fingers. Maybe the tips were removed. She was taking requests, so I figured I'd make it easy for her by asking generally, "Do you know any show tunes?" There was an awkward pause so, I quickly changed my request. "How about Frank Sinatra.. Strangers in the Night?" She seemed nearly giddy to play that one. It fit well, with the dark room and tall candle that flickered on the bar.

Dinner

The hostess found us when our table was ready. But suddenly we were winding back into some newer banquet room addition. It was loud with large groups and I hated to be picky, since we had made no special request earlier. But our waiter was gracious. Suddenly the manager appeared and happily ushered us to a wood paneled room with 4 tables and a fireplace. We couldn't have been happier.

Additions...?

I'm not sure how many additions and renovations have occurred over the years. Our dining room was on the second floor looking out over the terrace. Our waiter said it was added in 1992. Rats, that meant we weren't dining in Mr. Habersham's bedroom. But it was warm and cozy and it felt old.

Tom and Book

Our waiter Tom, was pretty excited to see our cookbook with the recipe for Carolina Trifle, which sadly was not on the menu. He shared the book with the manager who had been so nice. Tom also served us an incredible meal.

My pecan crusted chicken with blackberry bourbon glaze, sweet potatoes with pecan/vanilla butter and collards was pretty decadent.

Don's hefty, 16-17 ounce braised pork shank with pineapple glaze was very sweet and juicy. His came with macaroni and collards. How fun and Southern. Sadly there was no trifle for dessert. But we didn't have room anyway.

Good Memory

From the Tavern experience to dinner in our cozy room, we had a great experience. Big thanks to Tom and the whole staff of friendly folk, who greeted and served us!

Mimmie's Diner in Plains, GA

9/6/2016

Sunday Supper!

Don and I actually ate "lunch" at Mimmie's last January, but "Sunday Supper" sounds more like the Southern Experience that we enjoyed. We had a meal I'll never forget and what lead to the meal was even more memorable!

Church First

Don and I had planned a night in Americus, GA on our road trip. We were excited about our stay in an historic hotel on Saturday night. As we were heading on the highway towards the small town, my friend texted me out of the blue. She knew about our trip and wondered if we were anywhere near Plains. I checked the map and Plains was 10 minutes from Americus. After much texting and nudging, Don and I ended up altering our travel plans. Instead of heading out early for New Orleans on Sunday morning, we got up at 5 and found ourselves in line outside of Maranatha Baptist Church. As the sun rose and a full moon faded, we shivered and chatted and laughed with others, as the FBI and Secret Service and bomb sniffing dogs did all their duties.

Sunday School With The Carters

We went through security and then spent 30+ minutes in the pews being given strict instructions by Miss Pat. She was quite a character as she handled the packed crowd of "tourists" like a gym class. By 10:00, about 35 local church members (and visiting Paula Deen) arrived and were seated near the front. Then President Carter began his weekly Sunday School. The crowd of about 300+, was mesmerized. Mr. Carter spoke for 45 minutes in a gentle voice that made me crave each word... stories about his childhood and thoughts about an accepting God... And then there was a break and a whole church service with hymns and collection. And then! The Carters graciously greeted a long line of folks who had traveled from at least 45 states and numerous countries, to hear him speak. What an amazing morning.

Lunch at Last

By the time we left the church it had been over 6 hours since our granola bar breakfast. We headed to the only Sunday lunch option in Plains. We had heard that Mimmie's was the place to go. You can actually see the cute building in this photo, but the view was blocked by a full lot when we first arrived.

Another Line

We walked inside to find yet another line. We saw many of the same people we'd seen in church and figured their stomachs were growling, also. It was hard to believe we'd just driven to Mimmie's. It seemed more like we'd just followed the crowd down to the church basement.

Locals

There were quite a number of people dining out on a sunporch area. They must have been locals, since many were finishing up. We heard the Carters often come to Mimmie's after the service. But we didn't get our hopes up, since we knew the Carter's friend Paula Deen was in town and they probably had bigger plans.

Soul and Southern Food

The line moved quickly, so I didn't really have time to figure it out, until we were standing there right in front of the steaming food containers. Luckily the servers were patient as I studied the options.

Dinner Tickets

I kind of liked the "meal ticket" plan. We quickly decided if we wanted a "meat and 3" or a "meat and 2". My green ticket got me fried chicken, mashed potatoes & gravy, greens, cornbread and iced tea.

Community Seating

We were handed our trays and then decided where to eat. The smaller tables were all on the porch and the 2 large rooms seemed to have community tables. It felt like we were having a meal in a church hall... except for the antique saws on the wall.

Table 14

We looked around to see what the other diners were doing and decided to keep our dishes on the trays. I was amazed to see the family staff in their white aprons efficiently clearing tables. I could see how dining on the trays helped with efficiency. As for the food, it was like going to eat at your Southern grandma's. My fried chicken was tasty and better than Don's baked! My collard greens and Don's lima beans were pretty much what was expected. Don's yellow ticket got us a pecan pie to split! Yay for Georgia and pecan pie!

People Watching

As we sat eating, it was curious to watch the people in line. Who were all these people, who had traveled so far to hear the former president speak? And would any of these people join us at our table? It was kind of like being in the school cafeteria wondering who would come sit next to you.

Mark and Debbie

We felt pretty lucky when a couple from New York asked to join us. They were also on a road trip and had decided to do the church stop as well. Mark actually had some kind of job with the Senate back in the Carter years, so he had some interesting stories.

Mimmie and Family

As things calmed down, I was able to chat briefly with Terrel and I think, his cousin. The restaurant is run by the Raven family, all descendants of Mimmie Hightower. I read later that she was a former slave, which would mean Terrel and Kristen would have to be great-great grandchildren... or maybe we'd need to add another great?Terrel and Kristen posed under her photo.

Milton and Willie Bell Raven opened the restaurant just a few years ago. Milton was a former educator who grew up in the small community of Archery. That's where the Carter Family Farm still sits today. Milton passed away a couple years ago, but he knew Jimmy his whole life.

Celebrity Photo

At one point I recognized Miss Pat. She was standing around chatting and laughing with people like she was at a cocktail party. She looked a lot friendlier than when she was in the church laying down all the rules. After being intimidated and amused by her before the service, I was eager to go have a chat, myself. Miss Pat was a delight. She said she loved my sweater. I felt like I was one of her local friends when she reached to read my clothing tag to find out where she could find one. I felt giddy, like I'd met another celebrity!

On the Road

We headed towards Montgomery with full stomachs and happy memories... which all began with the full moon and freezing temps that morning.

A real dining adventure!

Pirate's House in Savannah, GA

8/29/2016

Welcoming Visitors Since 1700's

This old place first opened as an inn, serving seafarers traveling down the nearby Savannah River. There are lots of stories of pirates and grog and underground tunnels to the Rum Room. But mostly the grog drinkers have been tourists, since it became a restaurant in the 1940's. Don and I were 2 of those tourists, last January.

Cozy House

There are a number of buildings that make up the Pirate's House and its 15 dining rooms. This homey one with the porch, was part of the original inn. The attached structure on the right, with the slanty-roof, was built in 1734. It was called the Herb House and it was home to the gardner who tended Savannah's carefully planned botanical garden.

Cookbook Illustration

I'm sure the exterior has gone through many changes over the years, but not much since 1964. This illustration is from my 54-year-old Ford Motor Cookbook and it shows the same paint colors on building and shutters. Of course I brought along the book, hoping to share with an enthused server or cook...

Late Afternoon Visit

It was around 4, when Don and I squeezed in a visit during our short stay in Savannah. There were a few young and bored women chatting at the hostess desk, during the lull. They told us to feel free to roam around and to enjoy the gift shop. That was a bad sign right there. I don't care about souvenirs. I just wanted some history and these youngin's didn't have much interest in that. So we looked on our own. The first room we peeked in, was the original Herb House. You can see the slanted ceiling with thick beams.

The Captain's Room

The Captain's Room had great old floors and wooden walls. The fireplace looked authentically rustic. But what was with the skull and parrot theme? Yes, real pirates spent time in this room, but I doubt the fireplace was decorated with skulls back then.

The Bar

Don and I wanted to have a "dining adventure" in this old building, but it was too early and too empty to be fun. So we figured we could at least drink an ale or some grog-like beverage to help remember our visit. Sadly, the bar was a newly remodeled space that could have been anywhere. But luckily Joshua was still on duty for a while behind the bar. He had a bit of a pirate look about him, with ponytail and earrings. But best of all he had a lot of interest in the history of the place.

Don had some kind of ale and I went for the Pirate's Pleasure... because it sounded appropriate, with rum. Some lively tourists arrived a while later and ordered the 22-ounce Chatham Artillery Punch. Joshua explained how he makes this crazy concoction in huge amounts each day. Maybe next time.

Date and Nut Pudding?

It made my day that Joshua was amused by the old cookbook. He laughed over the pudding recipe, which is no longer served. He even flipped through some of the pages from the northeastern States to see if he recognized any of the featured restaurants.

A Quick VIsit

I can hardly say we really experienced Pirate's House. We had no meal. We weren't there at night with costumed servers. I didn't even ask if I could go find a tunnel.

But we got to check off one more on the Cookbook List. And best of all, we had a great chat with Joshua. He may not be as young as the disinterested youngin's, but he was still young enough that I was impressed with his appreciation for history and preservation of old buildings.