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Hidden Saloon from 1912 Don and I had a mighty memorable night at The Blue Beet, in October... when we finally found it on Balboa Peninsula.  The 110 year old brick building stood just yards from wharf. We could see it on the map, but we still drove in circles. The skinny, 3-story structure was sort of tucked into an alley. Stark's in 1912 We were greeted by a narrow hall when we stepped inside. If it had been a century earlier, (when Henry Stark owned the saloon) I probably wouldn't have been allowed inside. Unless my name was Dollar Dolly. She was an older "Lady of the Night" who searched for customers at Stark's. This may just be folklore... not sure.
I was not nearly as bold as Dolly, so I let Don lead the way. Actually, I was just moving slowly as I studied the walls and thought about Mr. Stark. I'd read up a bit on the internet. He evidently ran the rough and tumble saloon, in a pretty relaxed manner, back in the day. He managed to keep the bar open, even through prohibition days. He also allowed a never ending poker game to continue throughout his ownership. When the bar closed at 2 am, the game continued right into the morning, when the bar re-opened at 6 am. Sid's Blue Beet in 1960 If we'd come in the 1960's, when Sid Soffer took ownership, I might have felt a little more welcome. I assume women were allowed, in the sixties. If they'd felt uncomfortable though, they could have put a dime in the payphone near the door, to call a cab. Not sure if that phone is actually original.  From what I've read, the owner Sid was even more of a character than Henry Stark. He served food, but refused to offer condiments. He got himself on the city council where he stirred up trouble... enough trouble, that he fled to Vegas to avoid arrest. He died in Vegas, in 2007. The Bar Today I believe The Blue Beet has been owned by a father and son, since 2015. I know nothing about them.  We didn't see the owners, but met Manny the bartender (manager?) when we arrived after 6 on a Monday evening. Entertainment We had heard that singer/guitarist Mike Hamilton would be performing that evening. Don and I became quick fans when we enjoyed his music in Laguna Beach, back in 2012. Manny said Mike wouldn't be performing till closer to 7, so we had time to kill.  I looked around the cozy-dim space and wondered about other performers in the saloon's past. I'm sure there were many musicians over the years, but evidently in the sixties you could also enjoy entertainment like flamenco dancing or poetry readings. At some point Steve Martin did stand up here! Sunset After peeking around a bit, we decided to head outside to see if we could catch the sunset.  We didn't have to walk far. The Pacific was lovely and we caught the sun just before it disappeared. More Bars We wandered near the pier and studied some of the businesses facing the water. The older bars reminded us that this area was once a working class seaport. In the early 1900's buildings stood yards from the wharf, offering food and drink... and brothels.
I'm sure "Blackies By the Sea" and "Beach Ball" have some stories to tell. Who knows how old they actually are, but they now stay open more hours than Blue Beet! Blackie's opens daily at 10. Beach Ball appears to have the same hours that Blue Beet had long ago. "Closed 2am to 6am" Back to the Beet It was a little darker (than my photo) by the time we returned to the Blue Beet. The window to the kitchen was open, sharing some pretty good smells.  Luckily no smells of burning food... or burning building. Evidently there was a huge fire in 1986, that destroyed most of the interior. Luckily, enough of the brick exterior was spared, so the building could be renovated. Peek in the Kitchen Once inside, I had another view of the kitchen.  Under the Prime Steaks sign, I could catch a glimpse of the bright room, that made our dinner later. Mike & Guitar Don and I headed for the back room, where Mike was setting up, beneath a neon Blue Beet sign.  I've kept up with with Mike on Facebook, since seeing him perform in Laguna. He knew his fans from 10 years ago, were coming that night, so if was a fun reunion. We chatted casually while Mike dealt with all his equipment. Upstairs Mike and Don continued to gab, while I explored. I climbed upstairs to check out all the levels.    There was even a roof terrace, on the top level. I took a quick peek and headed back down, checking out all the framed posters and photos, on my way.  There was an odd assortment of framed celebrities, from Jackie Kennedy to sports players. And then there were images that clearly had stories behind them. Questions There was a lot to wonder about. What was original from the old saloon, besides the brick?
But there was no time for questions. Mike was tuning up and I was thirsty and hungry. From Beatles to Bach Don and I grabbed a table in the cozy back room and spent the next few hours enjoying Mike's mellow voice and acoustic guitar. He started with Simon and Garfunkel's, "The Boxer" Good choice.
I requested Cat Stevens and heard an old favorite, "Moon Shadow". Perfect! It was fun to hear some Kenny Loggins tunes, knowing that Mike toured with him back in the seventies. Another nice surprise was hearing Mike's guitar doing a little combo of Bach and Pachabel! What an enjoyable evening. Food Too We hadn't come for the food but we did have a decent dinner with our drinks and music. The salad with grilled chicken, goat cheese, candied walnuts, beets, apples and and balsamic dressing was very tasty!
The house Pesto Flatbread with mozzarella and baby arugula was surprisingly yummy. So I mentioned the food, because this is a Dining Blog. But the tasty food was just a part of the enjoyable evening. The other guests and laid back atmosphere, made it feel like we were in someone's living room, hanging out. Mike chatted through his mic, introducing us to to each other and telling stories... experimenting with different requests and thanking us all repeatedly. We hadn't intended on staying until his last song, but we did and enjoyed every minute. Last to Go I guess Don and I acted like Groupies. We lingered, until only Mike and Manny were left.  Manny took our picture and we 3 grinned, kind of like we did 10 years ago when we took a photo at The White House in Laguna. Yay for a good mix of music, food and historic atmosphere!
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Hitchcock-Inspired-Throwback-Post I watched Hitchcock's Vertigo last night!  It made me crave a trip back to San Francisco! Especially Nob Hill! The Fairmont! As we watched, I recognized the Fairmont Hotel behind Jimmy Stewart. Don and I last visited San Francisco in 2019 and spent a night.  It was October 20, which was 40 years after the day we were married. We were in giddy spirits that day... which was just a couple months before the beginning of the Covid pandemic. Sure glad we didn't know that was coming. The Tonga-Room-Turn-Away So today, I'll remember that carefree evening on Nob Hill! We started by pulling our tiki attire from our suitcases and heading for the hotel's Tonga Room!  The iconic basement lounge opened at 5. We arrived at 5:05 and got an abrupt greeting from a guard. "Private Event." "But..." I pointed to our clothes (as if that was the ticket to get us in) and sputtered, "Look at how we're dressed we came all the way from Houston and we're here one night it's our 40th anniversary and when I made reservations weeks ago they said it would be open..." The guard was not amused.  If it had been a party we could have crashed it. But some big name company had booked many of the event spaces and they were using the fabulous tropical lounge, like an office. Workers quietly gazed into their glowing laptops, mostly ignoring the festive decor or buffet of food. Good grief. "Well, you'll at least have to take our photo." I insisted. The guard agreed. Laurel Court Luckily there are lots of options if you're staying at the Fairmont. We headed upstairs to the lovely lobby bar, which did not turn us away.  Don insisted on changing out of his shirt with the ukuleles. I was determined to make use of my flamingo dress.  We sat on a comfy rounded couch, with a sort of Tuscan scene behind us. We toasted to our happy 40 years, with French 75s. I wish we'd also had a toast with the water glasses. They matched my dress! Sir Francis Drake Hotel (Now Beacon Grand) From the Fairmont, we took a walk of less than 10 minutes, to another iconic hotel. The rounded sign above the marquee, lured us to the rooftop's Starlight Room. The happening lounge on the 21st floor opened a few years after the hotel opened in 1928.  Don and I actually stayed at the Sir Francis Drake nearly 20 years ago. But we were with our kids and didn't visit the swanky lounge. The lounge had recently reopened with a new name and we were eager to go. In fact the hotel itself, has a new name as of 2021. The British explorer Sir Francis Drake, evidently is not someone we want to spotlight anymore. He played a big part with British slave trade... Grand Entrance The entrance to the hotel looked just as grand as I remembered. I recall our kids posing for a photo with the doorman, dressed his elaborate Beefeater's attire. Our gracious doorman also offered to pose. I read that those uniforms cost $3,000 and weigh 40 pounds!
I couldn't find the old photo, but I found this one of Don and kids heading up the grand staircase to the lobby. The sign on the left shows an arrow to the Harry Denton's Starlight Room! Harry Denton was the club owner at that time. His Sunday Drag Shows were a big hit. Lobby Bar Before heading to the elevator, we took in the palatial lobby bar! The gold leaf and marble and vaulted ceilings and glamorous chandeliers were quite impressive! The tourists hanging out near the bar, were less so.  It was tempting to sit on one of those comfy barstools, just to take it all in.
Maybe the bartender could have told us more about that glossy Beefeater, displayed in the center. It looked like it had just popped out of a jello mold. But I snapped a photo and we moved towards the elevator. The Starlight Room closed early on that Sunday evening. The Old Starlight As the elevator took us to the 21st floor, I wondered what the lounge would be like. We knew it had just reopened with a new look. I guessed we would not see men in dark suits and ladies in gloves.  I also guessed we wouldn't see red velvet and high back booths. Not that long ago, there had been a dress code for the lounge. Lizzie's Lounge Suddenly we had arrived at Lizzie's Lounge. Supposedly the new name was for Queen Elizabeth who supposedly had an affair with Sir Francis Drake. Hmm. .  The light, modern vibe was a pleasant change from the lobby. It was definitely a younger crowd.. although not a bit crowded. We stood for moment and the bartender greeted with a reminder. "Last call is at 8:00." For a moment I wondered if that reminder was issued to old geezers like us. Purple DJ But clearly things were winding down in the pretty pastel lounge. The DJ was tucked into his own little corner, between white wispy curtains and walls of glass. The only dancers on the floor were purple lights.  There were no throbbing dance beats filling the lounge. I kept hoping some of the interesting guests would get up and make use of that glowing dance floor.  I was especially curious about the woman (far left) with rabbit ears, poking out of her shiny wig. Her mini skirt and fishnets looked like they were meant for an audience. But she was too busy with her drink. I liked the way she held her wig hair back, with both hands, as she leaned over her glass and sipped through the straw. No Straw For Me I enjoyed my wine, even though I had no straw.  I didn't worry that I was the oldest woman in the lounge, Or that my skirt was below my knees. I was wearing my flamingo dress and proud of it. The View We enjoyed our drinks, while looking out over the glowing city.  We tried not to rush, but the lights in the lounge got a little brighter and our bill was delivered. Getting Brighter Before we finished our drinks, the lights seemed to get brighter and then our bill arrived.  We were told "No rush." but we definitely felt the nudge to leave. Don signed away, with a lovely quill pen. Nursing my Drink I'm very good at nursing drinks, but Lizzie's did not invite me to linger. I posed with my glass and left it behind. In the elevator, we lucked out and got to ride down, with the woman wearing bunny ears. I told the woman that I really liked her ears. She complimented my flamingo dress.  After feeling a little rushed to leave the lounge, we arrived in the lobby to realize Don had left his jacket behind. The elevator wouldn't allow us to go back up. The lounge wouldn't answer the phone. We alerted the lobby bartender and finally the DJ came down the elevator with Don's jacket. Oh what a silly time. Food at Sears! This post is about drinks in 3 hotels. But I need to make it clear that we did eat. Yep, it was our 40th anniversary and we could have done better. But we were just winging it.  After Lizzie's, we headed across the street and had a fun and fattening meal at the 81-year-old Sear's Fine Food! Not exactly classy, but just right for us! Mark Hopkins Hotel After our Sears feast, we were ready for our last stop at the lavish Mark Hopkins Hotel.  Long before the hotel was built in 1926, the Mark Hopkins mansion, stood on this spot. It was destroyed by fire after the 1906 Earthquake. (Love these facts!) Top of the Mark In my daytime photo, you can see the Top of the Mark bar, on the 19th floor near the flag. Originally that top floor was an 11-room penthouse apartment.
Don and I were excited to return fr our second visit to Top of the Mark. We often laugh at memories of ourselves in 1982, ordering beers at Top of the Mark and gasping at the price. Dark and Cozy We headed up the elevator feeling much less intimidated in 2019. We planned to NOT order beers.
We probably should have ordered martinis. There serve 100 varieties! But it was so cozy and quiet on a Sunday at 10. We got Irish coffees and once again enjoyed a view of the illuminated city. It seemed just right.  My photo is blurred, but at least I have one. Back in the 80's we have so few photos of our travels. I'm pretty sure I wasn't wearing a flamingo dress that evening, years ago. In the 50s? I do know what Top of the Mark was like, 40 years ago. But how about the 50's when women wore hats and smoking was allowed. Or in 1958 when Vertigo was filmed. I'm sure Hitchcock and his stars, Jimmy Stewart and Kim Novak probably enjoyed a drink or two.  I was glad to find some old photos. Evidently it was in 1939, that the penthouse was converted to a glass-walled cocktail lounge. I looked around, trying to figure out what changes had been made over time.
I wandered just a bit from our table and found a raised dance floor and a rounded bar, which gave me hints of the past. Farewell Drink After we finished up, we headed towards the elevator and noticed a case holding old bottles. What were those notes wrapped around them?  During WWII, San Francisco was a major transit point for troops. Servicemen often had farewell drinks before shipping out. The NW corner of the lounge was knows as Weeper's Corner. Wives were known to gather for their final look at the departing ships. Sad. The Notes I read that it was during the Korean War that "Squadron Bottles" were kept at the bar. Members signed and dated the label after claiming a free drink.  The man who drank the last sip from a bottle would keep the signed one and purchase a new bottle. By the end of the war, there were 32 squadron bottles in use. Good Night After visiting The Mark, we had a 1 minute walk to the Fairmont. What a fun night, visiting 3 hotel lounges! And thanks Mr. Hitchcock, for reminding me of this wonderful city and area. I had fun thinking back to that memorable night on Nob Hill
I'm ready for another visit. Not sure we can ever afford the Mark Hopkins, but I heard there is a "Hotel Vertigo" in the area. It was one of the buildings used in the film.
We'll see! Back Again It was a beautiful day last October, when Don and I arrived for lunch.  We had memories of The Big Sur River Inn, from 40 years ago. Big Sur River Inn 1982? This is the only photo I can find from our visit, 4 decades ago.  Don looks mighty serious as he sips his Heineken. My sister and SIL, were hanging out in the grass. I do remember the air and sun felt wonderful. The Chairs! This is actually the main thing I remember from that first visit. There were chairs in the creek! And there were tons of people sitting in those chairs and on those rocks! There wasn't an open chair that day!  At 11:30 on a Wednesday in October, there were no people cooling off in the water. I was so glad to know that the chair in water thing wasn't just some false memory of mine! Beautiful Day in 2022 It was another beautiful day when Don and I arrived for lunch, this past fall. It was also Don's birthday, so I was extra happy for good weather.  We parked in a lot beside Highway One and walked past the River Inn Bus. Did it sell ice cream?  We walked past the Motel Office and a deck with planters. The Inn's History When we visited 40+ years ago, I knew nothing about the inn's history. I guess it was only about 50 years old then. It's almost 90 today!  I do however remember the rambling structure of logs and stone, sitting beside the highway. Years Ago The exterior today, didn't look terribly different from the photographs I found on a wall inside.  The rock chimney looks the same. The road is no longer dirt. The Apple Pie Inn in 1934 The Big Sur Inn began In 1934, with a different name. Ellen Brown established the Apple Pie Inn, on the east side of the dirt road.  Ms. Brown opened her living and dining rooms and served food to travelers and tourists. She was famous for her pie. Lodging units were built nearby. Rogers Redwood Camp In 1937, Ellen left Big Sur and her mother took over the inn. Highway One was completed and Ellen's house was moved to the west side of the road.  The home was turned into a dining room and kitchen. Gas pumps were installed and the Inn got a new name. The term camp was considered very inviting in the thirties. Which Door? We passed a number of doors before we found the main entrance.
The sign told us, "Welcome! Don't be shy. Come on in! We're open." So we went in! Interior It was about 11:30 and a beautiful day, so no surprise that the dining room was empty.  We asked for an outside table, but I had to do a little exploring first!  I was glad it was October and not peak season. It was hard to imagine every table being filled. On a Cold Night There was a fabulous old fireplace, that clearly belonged to the chimney, we'd seen in all the photos.  The ashes were a reminder that the fireplace gets lots of use. It must be cozy in here, during the winter. But what's that shape on the floor? Brass Chair I breezed through the second dining room and peeked at some old photos.
I noticed a brass design on the wall. It was in the shape of a chair and it reminded me that I needed to get outside and see those chairs! Chairs and Umbrellas I wasn't talking about the deck chairs.  There were a lot of them, though! And lots of umbrellas for sunny and hot days. Our Table We sat on a higher deck, with a view of the deck.  If the lower deck hadn't been closed we could have had a better view of the river. But no complaints. Tree in the Deck! There was a tree growing through the deck, behind us.  I wonder when the deck was added and how often they've had to enlarge the hole?  My photo from further away, fails to show how tall the tree actually is. This big old Redwood (I presume) probably could tell some stories! Lunch on the Deck There were lots of options in the big ole menu that arrived shortly after we were seated.
Don ordered a chicken sandwich with fries. Simple, but delicious and quick.
My greens and spinach salad was perfect! Candied walnuts and Gorgonzola! We saved the bigger "pig out feast" and cake for dinner. Down to the River After lunch we headed down past the deck and below the boulders, to get to the Big Sur River.  This is the part I had been waiting for. It wasn't summer and I wasn't hot. But I needed to have the River Experience!  My shoes came off and I stuck my feet in the chilly river! 40 years ago, the chairs were all taken, but I had my pick on this fine day! A Good Visit This was a quick write up. I don't say much about the food or service. Both were totally good. Really better than I expected!  But we came mostly, because we remembered the river and the chairs and the peaceful surroundings. It was lovely and I hope to return. Maybe we'll stay in the motel across the street. And for sure we'll try some of the Original Apple Pie!
Pea Soup Adventure Don and I finally sampled the soup, at Pea Soup Anderson's.
This sign itself (in Buellton, CA) was worth the stop! And yes, it's Pea Soup Anderson's. Not Anderson's Pea Soup. This is where we ate. Very Confusing! There are two Pea Soup Anderson's, This one with the windmill, is off of I-5 in Santa Nella, California. We spotted it in 2020, while traveling.  I made Don pull in so I could read the sign and take a pic! It was the pandemic and we weren't dining in any restaurants then. It killed me to not experience this odd place. Dining Adventure in October 2022 2+ years later, Don and I planned a pea soup stop, on another trip. We learned about the Buellton location, when flipping through our 1950 cookbook. The Buellton restaurant was featured in the book! We knew we wanted to go to that one because it was the original restaurant. It opened in 1924 (with another name) and attracted travelers on Coast Highway 101.
There was no windmill at the Buellton restaurant. There also didn't appear to be too many travelers stopping for soup. The lot looked almost empty. But there were many interesting buildings on the sprawling grounds. We passed a curious building with stained glass and headed towards the doors in the tudor building. Tudor & Neon As we got closer, I wondered if the place was even open. Was this was another case of pandemic closure? The exterior looked a little worn. I kept fingers crossed that the biz was open, as the Pepsi banner on the left suggested.  My eyes were drawn to the neon letters on the roof and some whimsical artwork to the right. But I was even more curious about the history behind the brown boards and tan stucco. The rambling structure looked like an old lodge of some kind. Around the Corner The entrance was indeed closed. But that was only because we were at the wrong one. The main entrance was around the corner facing another street.  Wow! What was the deal with this building, that went on and on?  There was a glowing OPEN sign near the door! A good sign. The Andersons I stepped back and tried to imagine the history behind this iconic place. I had already read that Anton and Juliette Anderson began selling split pea soup (Juliet's family recipe) back in the 1920's.  They started with a small cafe, then added a hotel and dining room in 1928. I'm guessing this was part of that "newer" addition. Inside We stepped inside and I was a little taken aback by the smell. Was that a pea soup smell? No, I think it was just age. I can usually get past that. We made our way through a large gift shop before finding the dining room.  The spacious area wasn't exactly packed with diners, but it was after 2:00. We had lots of choices for seating. Dining Counter Those big cushy chairs at the counter were sort of luring me.  Usually you don't get the luxury of leaning back when you enjoy swiveling at a counter. This looked like it was designed for oldsters like us! Cushy Booths There were soft, rounded booths as well.
In fact this whole place was kind of booth heaven! My photos look neat and tidy, but there were a few tears in the vinyl and some hints of age. So many older, classic restaurants suffered from the pandemic.  I studied the dividers and wondered if the frosted glass was added with the pandemic? Then I noticed the etched glass, with those familiar characters, that I had spotted on billboards long before we arrived. Hap-pea and Pea-wee These are the mascots that have been attracting attention since the 1930's.  The image of these cartoon chefs splitting peas with hammer and chisel, can be seen all over the property. At some point, artist Art Clokey, (who also created Gumby) was hired by the Andersons to make stop motion commercials with these characters.
One of these hardworking guys seems to enjoy his work more than the other. Lots to Read A very sleepy-looking host took us to our table and handed us some entertaining menus. I enjoyed reading up on more history. Anton was from Denmark. Juliet was from France. Their only child Robert, got into the family biz after graduating from Stanford in the 1930's. Robert took on the nickname Pea Soup Anderson, along with the restaurant in 1947. Did anyone really call him Pea Soup?
I had my own reading material waiting in my bag. The 1950 cookbook was put out by Ford Motor Company during the time when Robert was running the restaurant. Our yawning host clearly was not someone who would be interested in seeing an old book. I hoped our server might be more lively and interested. Ricky and the Book We lucked out big time, with Ricky. In the quiet dining room where no one seemed to be talking above a murmur, Ricky came to life when I showed him the cookbook. He had questions for us and we did for him. He was happy to pose for a photo.  Ricky said he'd been working at Anderson's for 22 years. He'd moved from Mexico to Buellton when he was 14 and had never been in the restaurant until he got the job. (I think I got that right) He also said it took him about 10 years to finally taste the soup. Now he likes it and has a cup a day! Recipe The vegetarian soup recipe in our book looked pretty easy. It was fun to look at the illustration again, after seeing the building. The image still didn't exactly match what we saw from the parking lot. Lots of changes.
However, the book's recipe perfectly matched the framed recipe, displayed on the wall. I should try to make it sometime, since Don loves split pea soup. My Meal Don and I both ordered the pea soup, but he's the real fan of the creamy green stuff. Don doesn't have any childhood memories of a getting horribly sick after eating a grandmother's pea soup. I do.  But when in Rome! I just had to order the soup. It was in the book after all. Plus it came with Danish Pumpernickel bread! Actually that's not my favorite either.  But I loved that it was served in a retro bowl, with a basket of onion cheese rolls. I had a choice of coffee, soft drink or milkshake and took about 1 second deciding on that! So I had split pea soup AND milkshake together! I ate it all and didn't get sick!  Since I ate all my soup, I was rewarded with this image! I could have covered them up with more soup over and over. My order was the "All You Can Eat Traveler's Special". I didn't test the limits. I had one bowl. Enjoying the Walls We chatted a little more with Ricky before we departed. He was such a pleasant part of our experience. He steered us towards more photos with such sincere enthusiasm.  It really was amazing to study the old photographs and imagine the excitement and energy of this place. Even when it was closed during WWII, the hotel housed and fed the military. Gift Shop We wandered through the gift shop on our way out. The bakery goods and candy were neat and tidy, but there were also many empty shelves and no customers.
I found it a little sad. Was this just a slow day? When the shop was added in 1941, business was booming with travelers and tourists. Even in 2012, they were selling 500-600 gallons of pea soup a day.
The place was sadly quiet. I wondered about the metal equipment. Was that for making pea soup? And why didn't I at least buy a Pea Soup Mix, after I took the photo? The Property Before heading outside, I studied a framed photograph with an aerial view. It showed the property in 1942, before Hwy 101 expanded and some buildings were removed.  The photo helps, but it's still confusing. I wish I could compare to another aerial view from 2022. Don and I headed outside to see what we could figure out. I read later, that the 35,000 square foot property, is now for sale. Sad... but maybe good. More of the Pea Guys First we found more of the cartoon chefs. Don found one image that showed the poor guys getting a break from splitting peas. They were holding glasses of wine! Cheers to that.
There were no other folks wandering nearby to take our photo, hamming it up as Hap-pea and Pea-wee. I really wonder how long it's been since 2 people posed their faces in those holes. Reminders of Another Day We strolled around the side of the building that was once the Anderson's hotel. What is that second floor space being used for today?  In 1965, Vince Evans bought the business from the Andersons. He had big bucks and ideas. He added onto the business and the whole thing became sort of an amusement park, with an aviary filled with parrots, a children's train and an animal park. He opened up the location in Santa Nella in 1976. The little truck in the corner, looked like a reminder of the past. Walking and Wondering I guess we should have asked Ricky more questions. He might have known stories about some of the buildings we found behind the restaurant. What was the place like when he started working around 2000? click on the images to enlarge We could see a motel that was added much later, further back. It also looked a bit weary, with less charm than the larger tudor hotel. I so hope that new owners can buy and preserve some of this curious history. It doesn't sound like there are any Andersons or Evans family members left, to carry on the history. One More Look Before we got into the car I took one more peek at the mystery building.  It looked like a building from the 1904 World's Fair, that could have housed a carousel. And just today I found an article about Vince Evans and this property. In 1979, he purchased a 100-year old pub in England and had it moved here. This was it! Sadly a year later he died with his wife and daughter in the plane he was flying. Such a sad story. Good Luck Andersons! So good luck to Anderson's Pea Soup and to our waiter Ricky.  I hope someone or some group, with lots of funds and great ideas, purchases this business. I hope they give Ricky a position where his enthusiasm and appreciation can be put to good use. I need to be able to come back! I'm just starting to like split pea soup!
Cookbook Adventure, in October This is the illustration that accompanies a recipe, inside our 1950 Ford Motor Cookbook.  Last fall Don and I had the cookbook with us, while traveling near Santa Barbara. A quick look on the internet told me Cold Spring Tavern was still open for business in 2022! Charming! The sweet looking tavern pretty much matched the vintage image! It looked so darn charming, it could have been part of a movie set. But there's a lot of real history behind those checkered curtains!  The little log structure was originally built in the 1860's, as a stagecoach stop along the San Marcos Pass. Today, visitors drive from Santa Barbara and beyond, to enjoy drinks and food and sometimes live music. The Drive Don and I followed Mapquest directions, winding along this scenic road.  For a while we thought we'd made a wrong turn.
Then we spotted a sign on the hill. It reminded me of arriving at Silver Dollar City (theme park) in the Missouri Ozarks, when I was a kid. Perfect Setting We followed the 2 lane road and spotted a cluster of buildings ahead.  We took the last spot in a small dirt lot and wandered towards the little oasis of weathered shacks. Busy There seemed to be a fair amount of activity near the green umbrellas.  The air felt like an October day in the Ozarks. Warm air with cool shade. Perfect.  The folks didn't look like Ozark hillbillies or Branson, Missouri tourists. Mostly the guests looked like Santa Barbara locals, who had driven out to the tavern for lunch. I'm sure they wouldn't care for my Ozark comparison.  How did they even know about this place? We only did because of our 60 year old cookbook. I hoped they weren't all waiting for inside tables. Stone & Wood The log structure looked larger from the side. I believe it began as one room and 3 more were added in the '40's.  I was eager to get inside and see the place, that's been serving food and drink since 1941. Adelaide's Tavern We stepped inside and I smelled the the same comforting smells I remember from my Uncle Morris' log house in Missouri. Wood and smoke. 80 years worth of fires in this cabin!  The cabin is much older than 80, but it was in 1941 that Adelaide Ovington purchased the property. She was the widow of Earle Ovington, the first airmail pilot. She paid $2,000 for 40 acres, including the tavern. The Bar Don and I practically had the tavern to ourselves. The front room was cozy, with a small bar on the right.  Only one guest was seated in the front room. I imagined the same room on a winter night, with guests begging for the table near the fireplace.  There are 3 fireplaces in the tavern and all were added after Adelaide purchased the property. Coziest Room The room behind the bar, was the coziest. There were dark wood booths and stacks of wood just waiting for chilly fall weather.  The wood walls and floors were all original. The Tavern didn't even have electricity until 1954. They still use gas lanterns today. Window View Don and I took a seat at table near the window, in The Long Room. I read that the large round table in The Long Room, once belonged to Gene Autrey. I love that kind of trivia.  There were no other guests in our dining area, but we were not alone. We were surrounded by lots of critters, on the walls above us. They shared the walls with lots of photos and news clippings
The antique "kitchen queen" is evidently the only original piece of furniture from before the Ovington's ownership. It was built in this very room and was too large to be moved when the property changed hands. The White Room? I peeked past the white door to see the back room. It appeared to be closed off for dining, but I believe it's called The White Room. Adelaide and her daughter Audrey lived in The White Room, until 1951.  Mother and daughter worked and lived together until they eventually built a small home on the property and named it Blisshaven. After Adelaide died in 1972, Audrey operated the Tavern for 33 more years. Ordering Time I had a hard time focussing on the menu with everything that surrounded us. I popped up to study the curious divided door. What was that metal thing?
I got sidetracked reading up on some history, on a wooden board. ...Cold Spring Tavern is a stagecoach stop almost 100 years old... Wow! When was that history board created? The Tavern turned 100 in the 1960's! Marcos & the Book! Our waiter, Marcos was the best! He had worked at Cold Spring for 27 years! As we were deciding what to order, I pulled the old cookbook out of the bag and Marcos had the best reaction.
First he laughed and said, no they DID NOT have the Monte Carlo Sandwich on the menu! Then he suddenly seemed totally amazed by the old illustration and asked if he could take a photo with his phone. Cookbook Pose We explained the whole cookbook deal... how we travel with it... it helps us find classic restaurants all over the country,.. so many of the featured restaurants are no longer around...  Sometimes it's hard to explain the whole treasure hunt & nostalgia experience to younger people, or to people who didn't grow up with Ford Motor Company advertising gimmicks! But Marcos was someone who was thrilled about history. He reacted with such enthusiasm! Tri-Tip Sandwich & Wild Game Soup Marcos also was good at encouraging us with food choices. I ordered the Wild Game Black Bean Soup. Initially I shied away from the soup, packed with venison, rabbit and buffalo. But Marcos raved about it.
Good choice! The flavor was amazing! It was served sour cream and cheese and a fresh hot flour tortilla. Famous Cold Spring Original Tribute-Tip Sandwich I wonder if they served try-tip, back when they served Monte Carlos? Marcos talked this up too. He pointed out the window to the stacks of oak used for the outside grill.
The oak-grilled, thick sliced meat was served on a brioche bun. The barbecue sauce was house-made with apple horseradish. Potato salad too!  A perfect feast with a perfect woodsy view! Marcos and Ashely Marcos checked on us often. We talked about everything from fires to droughts. He showed us a photo of the Tavern in the snow. It's a miracle the buildings have survived, over all this time.  At one point another server stopped by the table and wanted to see the cookbook. Ashely was young, but seemed surprisingly interested in the funny old book. She introduced me to her mom later. Her mom was even more curious, since she'd worked at the Tavern for 33 years! Another mother/daughter team! Did her name start with an A too? Wandering We weren't able to linger as long as I wanted, since we had hours of driving ahead. But we wandered the property a bit.  We headed past the picnic tables and took a peek inside two other buildings. Log Cabin Bar In the early 1900's, this building held a water bottling plant. The Orvingtons changed it into a bar in 1955.  Inside, the bartender looked a little bored. No one seemed to want to spend anytime inside, on a beautiful Friday afternoon.  The fireplace at the end of the bar was added in the fifties. They had to take down the wall, in order to remove the bottling equipment. They added the fireplace and used a local telephone pole for the mantle.. Old Bunk House This little gift shop was once a bunkhouse used by stagecoach drivers.  It's hard to imagine horses and stagecoaches traveling through this area, way over a century ago. Evidently you can still see ruts made by the wheels, in the stone along the old pass. Questions for Audrey We didn't explore nearly enough. There are more structures on the property, that we totally missed. I sure wish we could have visited when Audtry was still running the tavern. She died in 2005, but evidently left behind an enormous collection of cookbooks. I'll bet she had a Ford book, like ours.  We saw and learned a lot during our short visit. And the website is excellent for learning more later. It has a very fun list of interesting facts and stories. It was nice to find out that a third generation (Wayne & Joy Ovington Wilson) still operate the Cold Spring Tavern today!
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The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
August 2023
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