There are quite a few diners scattered in the desolate area outside Big Bend. Sadly The Pink Place wasn't an option for us.  My husband and I stayed in a castia for a week, just a  5 minute walk from The Pink Place.  But it was never open.

 Another time!

This little adobe spot was right next door, so we dined here a few times.

There are 5 tables to chose from, all covered with sunflower decorated vinyl cloths. I was worrid to take the last table since I'd heard 1 table was always reserved for the family. But a sweet lady with a black hairnet gestured for us to take a seat.   She later served me the most delicious and authentic looking chili rellenos I've ever eaten!

India's!

Every local in the area was giddy about sharing the news of India's Cafe. Being from Houston, I expected Indian cuisine, but no!  India and her husband William serve down home American food from 6 am to 2, only a few days a week.  Luckily we made it in time for lunch on our last day in the area.

India's is a popular little trailer cafe (when open) with more seating out than in.  Maybe that's because of the mountain view across the highway! 

We were lucky to grab one of the 3 inside tables.  It was cozy in the trailer, with the kitchen stove covered in steamy pans and a few crockpots on tables.  India was a delight as she bustled around.  She didn't have to go far, but there were lots of obstacles in this crowded space.  The counter was covered  with her homemade brownies and pies and there were plenty of shelves and tables of knick knacks to duck and weave around.

We had been warned that you don't go to India's if you're dieting. So I went all out and ordered Tommy's Bad Boy Chili Dog!  This was a cheddar stuffed smoked sausage, wrapped in thick bacon and deep fried, then smothered with  chili...which was full of grilled sweet onions, bell peppers, green chili and garlic.  William worked hard on a nearby stove preparing my feast.  When India eventually placed my empty plate in the sink I heard her tell William,  "She did a really good job on that!"

I don't have a picture of Mac, but I have a photo of his coffee mug hanging on a beam.  He arrived half way through our meal to pick up his carryouts. (He brought his own Tupperware)  He was hard to miss as he struggled to turn sideways  squeezing his large body through the screened door.  His voice was already booming greetings to India before he made it through.  While he waited for India to fill his containers he supported his heavy body against a table and chatted with us.  "Cold front's coming!" He announced.  "I can feel it in every broken bone in my body!"  He proceeded to tell us many stories about the war and his work with the sheriff that lead to his broken bones.   Even if Mac had been in a crowded Wal-mart, my eyes would have been drawn to him.  It wasn't just his size, but his white handle bar moustache, pin covered ball cap and faded overalls.  And here he was in this tiny 3-table cafe with his storytelling voice carrying on about how he was born in Lajitas on the porch of the general store, because Mama couldn't make it to the hospital 80 miles away.  Mac told a few jokes while India finished packing up his containers.   Then he nodded good-bye and we watched him maneuever his way back out the screened door.

The Prize!  
We ate in a quite a few  odd places during our week in the Study Butte/Terlingua area of West Texas.   All were memorable and odd.  But India's takes the prize for warmest and most  comfortable.  My unhealthy chili dog may have been my favorite meal, as well!  We will be back!

The sweet dog beasts had a jolly time romping in the rustic patio area and smiling at the customers through the glass.  A woman at the bar finally opened the door and let them in!

In the 1930's this building was  a movie theatre in the  middle of a booming mercury mining town.  Terlingua became a true ghost town after the mine closed, but the roofless building got some use in the 1960's with musical gatherings and chili cook-offs.  In the 1990's the building was given a  new roof and became a restaurant and music venue.  In 2013, I finally got to come enjoy a little food and entertainment at this one of a kind place!

We arrived on a sunny January afternoon.  The snow had just melted after a rare snowstorm and the big porch next to The Starlight was alive with roaming dogs and strumming  guitars.  We were told this was common activity.  There's often more music outside on the porch, than inside on the stage.

Locals told us to come back to The Starlight on Monday night for 2 for 1 burgers.  The  bar area was crowded with locals, mostly.  Lots of cowboy hats and friends greeting each other. More observing than mingling.  The kitchen seemed a little backed up, but the burgers were delicious when they arrived.

On Friday night we returned and found a comfortable atmosphere with music by Mark and Hank.  It was a slow night so we had lots of time to chat during their break.  Interesting to hear Mark's story of learning to play fiddle when he was in his 40's, living in the area as a river guide.  We chatted with Hank about how Woody Guthrie used his music to educate and unite people.  After break, Hank and Mark went back to performing and offered a nice surprise. "This one's for Beth!" Hank announced before they started up with  "This Land is Your Land."  Love a little Woody Guthrie!

Besides great people watching, there was some pretty interesting decor.  In the rear of the restaurant is a stage and a large cowboy mural where the movie screen once was.  There's also a stuffed goat with a sign, "The Honorable Clay Henry".  There's a long story about this goat (before taxidermy) and how the nearby town of Lajitas voted him in as Mayor years ago.  The goat was a big fan of Lone Star Beer.

I can't believe I actually got to visit the ghost town 3 times in one week.   You'd think I'd have this place figured out by now.  But I only have more questions about this isolated area scattered with mining ruins and a few old trailers and buses.  Where do these locals really live?  What brings them here?  How long do they stay?  Is there anyone who was actually born here?  I guess 3 times is not enough.  I'll have to come back. 

While you wait for your food you can play darts.   They must have 15 boards.  Or you can amuse yourself with the cases, filled with memorabilia.