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Another Revisit! I'm on a roll! In a 3-day period, Don and I hit 2 memorable, Czech owned restaurants in 2 small Texas towns. My last post was about Orsak's in Fayetteville. Both are curious places, with Czech family connections.
My family connection is that I have good memories of visiting both with family. My mom, sister and I discovered both Orsak's and Mikeska's, 11 years ago. Columbus, TX I had not been back to Mikeska's, until yesterday.  It was before noon when Don and I approached the roadside wonder. No need to drive into historic downtown Columbus. The octagonal restaurant was conveniently located, right off the feeder, beside I-10... along with a windmill and a pump jack and a number of hard to miss signs
Truck Parking There was a mighty big lot for parking.
We parked near the building, along with a couple large semis. Drive-Thru There were also drive-thru options. Jerry's original location didn't cater to the driving customers quite so easily.
After doing business in downtown Columbus since 1956, he moved out near I-10 in 1986. The Grand Interior Why would you want to pick up your BBQ from a window...  ...when you could dine within 8 walls, beneath a skylight and a dangling, illuminated antler display? And All Those Animals! Then of course, there are the critters that greet you when you walk in the door.  Don marched up to get in line, but I moved slowly by the mounted creatures. This Friend I'm not even sure what this beast is, but I remember him!  He seemed very serious, but his "parted" horns kind of reminded me of my favorite, silly idol from childhood books. I loved Pippi Longstocking and her braids that curled upward! Lots of Birds The large Pippi-Beast, shared one of the 8 walls with lots of birds, a few guns and a portrait of Jerry Mikeska. The long buffet table (used on Sundays) was partially blocking the gold, framed portrait of Jerry.
It's a little hard to see Jerry's bowtie in my photo, but there were lots of other photos covering the walls. I didn't find an image of Mr. Jerry, when he wasn't wearing a snappy bowtie! Photos of Jerry There might have been as many photos of Jerry as there were stuffed animals, on those walls.
I think there were more than 200 animals.  There were photos of Jerry with presidents and governors, red-hatted ladies and gals in sparkly costumes. There were also photos of Jerry and his brothers. The Bros There were a few yellowed news articles that gave me some history on the Mikeska family. Jerry's parents immigrated from Czechoslovakia through Galveston, in the late 1800's
Here is Jerry (in his tie) along with 3 of his 5 brothers. All 6 ended up in the BBQ biz. In our 20 years in Texas, we've pretty much heard the names of all... Rudy, Mike, Clem, Maurice, Louis and Jerry. They all worked in different towns, with different specialties. Jerry... he doesn't like garlic. That's what I learned. Question Time After Don and I got our food, I looked up and saw no line. I wandered over to ask a few questions, but the guys in red, were all pretty young and not really up for chit chat.  I was tempted to ask if Mr. Jerry was in his office. I had read somewhere that he is in his 90's, but still comes into work. Instead I asked if Jerry was the hunter of all the wild game that was on display. "No, he's just a collector." The young man did crack a smile when I asked what it was like to have all those eyes watching him work every day. He had no answer, but he laughed. Bears I noticed a few bears wearing some clothes. That reminded me, that something was missing.
I remembered that when Jennifer and Mom and I came to dine, we were greeted by a pair of polar bears, one wearing a tie.  I went up and asked the young guy at the counter, what happened to the polar bears with the baskets. He said they were still around, they just weren't on display. Hmm? I missed those sweet bears, who held baskets of mints. I remember Mom was pretty amused and Jennifer held our Miss Copeless doll, in the photo. She happened to be the mascot, that traveled with us on our road trip. Creepy? Maybe I should have been more bothered by all these eyes looking out towards the dining tables.
Some looked a bit fierce and others, just silly... like the squirrel with the raccoon tail, or the rabbit with antlers. Chowing on Meat Maybe I would have enjoyed my pork ribs more, if I hadn't been surrounded by furry animals. I'm one of those people who really likes the sides more than the meat anyway. Maybe I should have ordered just sides. But, when in Rome...  This photo is not very appetizing, but my spinach and buttery-soft potatoes were yummy. The pea salad was packed with creamy calories and soft-sweet peas. My ribs were actually better as leftovers, when they were reheated at home... away from the gaze of animals. Finishing Up Don ordered the chopped beef sandwich, which was actually very good. No need for sauce.
We lingered a bit, absorbing the decor and wondering about the other diners, who all seemed to be regulars. I kept wishing Jerry would just walk out. No Signs of Jerry We never saw Jerry, but when I got home I dug out photos from 2008.  What do you know! I spotted Jerry in his white shirt and black bowtie. Mom And I spotted Mom in another photo. There she sat, wearing her favorite knit hat, with llamas. In the image, she looks like she's studying an animal or two.  The chairs have changed, but the tables look the same. I had to smile when I realized that Mom was sitting at the very same table where Don and I sat.
Sweet memories of Mom enjoying our curious dining adventure. I'm glad to have shared another Mikeska's experience, with Don.
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Memories of Smitty's It's been over a decade since my mom, sister and I stumbled across Smitty's Market. We were on a road trip adventure, to celebrate Mom's 80th. We stopped in Lockhart, but not for its famous BBQ.
We made the detour, because of Mom's love for the hilariously, quirky movie, "Waiting for Guffman", which was filmed in Lockhart. We spent time snapping photos of the lovely courthouse. (Seen often in the movie) Then we noticed Smitty's across the street, with its tempting sign in the window. Birthday Girl Mom was in heaven that day as we headed over from the square, to check out the old building and doors. At 80, she was still spunky and curious, but she was also struggling with Alzeimer's. Jennifer and I were so grateful we could give her the Texas road trip, that she craved.
Mom had always loved road adventures, with all their surprises. She loved wandering, exploring and observing. As a kid I was often impatient when Mom got off on a questioning tangent with a guidebook or a chatty local. As an adult, I grew to love it! Building History We knew nothing about Smitty's, when we approached it that November day, in 2008. We did end up learning a little about the 2 buildings, once we stepped inside.  The shorter building had been Kreuz Market, since 1924. Edgar "Smitty" Schmidt bought the market in '48. Later he expanded, when he bought the 1906 dry goods store next door. Dark & Smoky I still remember the thrill of opening those doors and seeing this mysterious hall, with its soot covered walls. (It was much darker, without my camera flash)  Big fans hung from the ceiling, moving the warm, smokey air. We inhaled the wonderful flavors... and coughed... and laughed. The Market We peeked left, through the doorway to the old market. It wasn't open, but someone welcomed us in.  I honestly don't remember who it was, but they probably couldn't say no to Mom, who was eagerly pointing out all that she saw.  We grinned at the old scales and coolers... the saws and stools.  Jennifer snapped lots of photos, while Mom marveled at the wavy surface of the butcher block table. Down the Hall After roaming around the market, we traveled down the dark hall.
On a busier day, there might have been people sitting on the benches, eating barbecue on the skinny tables, attached to the wall. From the Stairs I couldn't resist climbing a few steps. From halfway up, I could see a number of pit areas in the back section of the old market.  The arrow pointed us to the area where BBQ is now sold. The Old Pits As we moved towards a small line of customers, the smells grew more delicious, but my eyes began to sting.  I looked back once more at the original room, where customers once ate their BBQ, right beside the fire pits. Today Today, customers order their meat in the next room. I was glad Mom was steady on her feet... not walking with a wooden cane, when we passed the open fire, to get to the counter.  I would love to know how many visitors have had little mishaps with the open flames. Over the Years On that day with Mom, we ordered a sampler of meats and took it with us for an evening feast.
In the years following, Don and I have traveled 2.5 hours from Houston, with family and friends to share the fun of a Smitty's Experience. Each time, I am in awe of the skilled people, on the other side of the counter. Many like Pablo, we've seen year after year. Fire Box... Cooking Chamber...? Since there are usually lines at Smitty's, there is no time for questions. I think I finally have it figured out that the fire box thing on the ground, provides (through some kind of flue) the smoke and heat for the brick cooking chamber.
It's amazing to watch the guys in their aprons, lifting the lid and messing with the meats. The slicing and chopping is clearly an art! It's a Wrap After ordering and paying with cash, the meat is wrapped in layers of butcher paper.
For people dining in, the bundle is handed over like an open pocket. Dining Room After getting the meat, it's on to the dining room.  There has always been an interesting crowd at the community tables. Drinks and Extras Soda, tea and beer is available at a nearby counter.  There are a few options for sides, but that's not what Smitty's is known for. Finding a Seat You never know who you'll sit by. I always hope for a cowboy hat or two. Or at least a handsome young man who eats all but the bone! Scott loves BBQ!
Once seated, the butcher paper becomes a plate. There are plastic spoons for the sides, but I swear I remember seeing knives chained to the table in the past. Maybe I just dreamed that. Recent Visit On our most recent visit, I chatted with Jim. He is married to Nina Schmidt Sells, who took over the business from her father in 1999. Nina grew in the biz.
Before her dad, Smitty bought Kruez Market, he worked there as a teen. In 1999, Nina's brother moved the used the Kruez name and opened in a new location. Nina kept the business and gave it her father's name. With Pat and Susan Don and I had the fun, of introducing our friends Pat and Susan to Smitty's recently. Don brought his own knife this time. He learned by watching locals on past trips... not that one was really needed! We had some Lockhart Beer and chowed down on ribs and brisket and sausage.  While we ate, I spotted Jim taking a break. It was late enough that Nina was relaxing a bit herself. I introduced myself and raved about our meal. I felt like a BBQ Groupie, meeting Smitty's actual daughter! Off We Go We finished and walked off a couple bites of brisket, with a stroll around the square. Then on the way to the parking lot, I got one last glimpse of the intriguing world of Smitty's BBQ.
I heard buzzing first, then notice a man, standing in a sea of oak logs. He was working away, splitting the wood that fuels the pits. I felt like I was getting a little peek, backstage.
Mom would have loved that final treat! |
The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
February 2026
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