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Diverse Dining List

Buckhorn Exchange in Denver

7/13/2017

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​"Zietz Buckhorn Restaurant" since 1893

Don and I were curious about the Buckhorn Exchange, when we spotted it in an old cookbook. It had a different name in 1964, when the restaurant was run by the original owner's son.

Don and I tracked it down in Denver as soon as we arrived, this past June. At first we studied the area surrounding the corner restaurant and wondered how safe our suitcase loaded car would be. But there was a large fenced in parking lot and the awnings were bright and welcoming.  And we were hungry and excited enough to risk it. 
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​Image in My Cookbook
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This is the book that lured us to the Buckhorn. We had spotted this write-up, with recipe, in our 1954 Ford Motor cookbook. We were excited to learn it was still open and going strong, since it was opened by Henry Zietz, 144 years ago! The recipe for Bean Soup sounded good and the illustration in the book promised an atmosphere filled with as many customers as stuffed critters!

Late Lunch
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It was after the official "lunch hours", but Lynn greeted us with a smile and ushered us to a cute table with a checkered cloth.

This was the view I had from my comfy, wingback chair! Well worn wood floors, pressed tin ceiling and just a few of the 575 stuffed creatures, to help us feel less lonely!
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​Bread and Beer!

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Don and I had been on the road a while, so we were happy to sit back and absorb our surroundings. Don sipped on a beer, while I devoured some pretty heavenly bread and butter. Lynn never made us feel like we'd come at an inconvenient time. She seemed delighted that we were so intrigued by the place.

​Buckhorn Specialty

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Don was very pleased with his salmon and baked beans. I chose Gramma Fannie's Pot Roast Sandwich on Pumpernickel. It's been a specialty since 1893.  The slow cooked Colorado beef brisket and pan gravy, was actually a lot yummier than "pot roast". I had a cup of the famous bean soup that was featured in the book. Very yummy!

Beasts and Critters
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The whole downstairs was jammed with Mr. Zietz' collection of Taxidermy Friends. Hunting was obviously a passion of the original owner. But, long before opening the saloon, Mr. Zietz spent time as a member of Buffalo Bill's "hard-riding and straight-shooting band of Scouts". By the time Zietz opened his saloon, he was the perfect host to the cattlemen, miners, railroad workers, Indian chiefs, silver barons and gamblers!  

​Lynn and the Book
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I was glad we were dining at an off-time, since Lynn was free to laugh over the book with me. Lynn studied the featured page with a huge grin. Then she went directly to a painting on the wall. She recognized the watercolor illustration in the book. They had the original, framed on the wall. 

Lynn was happy to pose with the cookbook... which is always part of the cookbook adventure.  We posed in front of an elk that Henry Zietz shot years ago.
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"He thought it was dead!" Lynn, laughed. "But it wasn't." Evidently, Henry moved in closer to get a better look and the angry beast kicked out some teeth!

Old Tables
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Lynn said she had been working at the Buckhorn for 30 years and her husband, Bill, for 40. I was impressed with Lynn's enthusiasm after so many years. She clearly did not tire of sharing stories and information.  She pointed out the 160- year-old poker tables, that now serve as dining tables. I can't remember what the little nooks were for, but they were odd little spaces under the tablecloth.

Were Ladies Allowed?
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I kind of loved the Ladies Room upstairs, with the porcelain sinks and antique dresser.

I doubt they had bathrooms at all when the Buckhorn opened in 1893. There probably weren't any ladies either, unless they were the Ladies of the Night variety.  
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​Celebs Over the Years
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On the wall spaces, which weren't covered in furry friends, there were photos of celebrity friends.  
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Long before the Hollywood stars came to call, there were the Western ones like Buffalo Bill and Sitting Bull. Then Teddy Roosevelt stopped for a visit, in 1905. Since those early years, there have been 5 presidents and at least one princess... Princess Anne. There have been plenty of stars from Bob Hope to Garth Brooks. Lynn said she had lots of stories from her 30 years.  She thought Tommy Smothers was pretty amusing.

​Upstairs

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Lynn invited us to have a look upstairs. She pointed out the wedding dress that had belonged to Sitting Bull's niece. Sitting Bull was the one who nicknamed Henry Zietz, Shortie Scout.

The White Oak Bar
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Lynn sent us upstairs to see the impressive front and back bar from 1857, that Zietz had shipped from Germany. She had to get back to work but made sure we stuck our heads in the office to show the cookbook to her husband, Bill. Bill was a tall friendly, character. Even though his clothes weren't western, he seemed to fit the atmosphere well. He took time to point out some of the second story highlights.  Like Lynn, he was full of information, but equally interested in us, asking questions about our travels.

The Roofgarten
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Before taking off, Don and I took a peek at the latest room addition, with a couple of stuffed bears and an authentic covered wagon. I wish we could have come back to see what the evening atmosphere was like, with live music, a weekend crowd... and so many wild animals!

Off We Go
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There was a little police action going on (with an intoxicated man) across the street, when we left. Let's just say, it added to the old west feel experience!
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I'm just so pleased we were able to chat with Lynn and Bill. It must be an exhausting business, yet, both were generous with their time and sincerely proud of this unique, historic place!
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Stagecoach Inn - Manitou Springs

7/10/2017

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​A Food-less Adventure in Colorado
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Once again, one of our trusty, vintage cookbooks took us to a place we might never have discovered.
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In June one of our stops on a 3-week trip, was Manitou Springs. I peeked in our 1950 cookbook to see if there were any featured restaurants from the area. I was pretty thrilled to spot the curious little Stagecoach Inn.  

​About the Cookbook
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I love flipping through the 67-year-old cookbook, which features restaurants and recipes across the United States.
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When I found the illustration for this cozy little place, I had 2 questions and checked the internet to answer the first. Yes, the "inn" was still open after all these years!  The second question was, "Do they serve cherry pie?" I got that answer from my friend Christy, who remembered eating some delicious cherry pie when she visited... 30+ years ago.

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​How Old?
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We found the barn-like restaurant, just a walk from our hotel. Although there was a newer addition to the right, the building looked very similar to the old illustration.
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I know from the cookbook that the restaurant was popular in the fifties, but I read that it had been here since 1900.

Stagecoach Stop
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An authentic stagecoach was on display, as a reminder that this was once a stagecoach stop, in 1881. The carriage in my photo, blocks a house-like wooden structure, that now holds the restaurant bar.
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The two buildings were connected by the 1-story addition. The whole rambling complex had a touch of hillbilly flair going on. It reminded me of my trips to the Missouri Ozarks, as a kid.

Early Evening
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It wasn't exactly mealtime when we arrived, but I was determined to have some kind of "dining adventure" anyway.  
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Don and I took a seat at the bar, even though the outside deck overlooking the creek, looked very inviting.

Happy Hour Exploring
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Don and I wanted to be inside where we could learn a little something about the place.
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The young staff made me realize I might have to do some history-figuring, on my own. I peeked at the old fireplace across from the bar. I found some framed photos on the wall, opposite the fireplace.

What were they before?

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It looked like the building that held the Stagecoach Restaurant, once held the Manitou Springs Journal.
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The other building, (where the bar was housed) looked more like a home.  The diamond design windows, were the same ones I saw next to the fireplace. 

Asking Moxie
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Moxie, our young bartender, was pretty upbeat and enthused. I must give her credit for that, since she was working a double shift, training a new bartender and a little short staffed. She also happened to remind us of Brittney Spears.
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Moxie wasn't too busy to answer our question about the staircase nearby. She said the stairs in the house-like building, once led to a brothel. That gave us something to think about. I waited for another break, when Moxie wasn't being bombarded with orders or silly customer questions. Then, I flashed the cherry pie recipe at her. She looked twice and laughed at the retro book. She said they still served cherry pie, but added,  "You can be sure it's nothing like that recipe!" I'm not sure what that meant. 

Renovations
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Most guests were eating on outside patios, so the dining room in the main building was empty. The fireplace and the front bay window, were the only indications that we were in an old building.
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The fresh paint and artwork were added with new ownership, a couple years ago. I would have loved to have seen the interior, in the fifties.

What About Food?
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Since we weren't experiencing a meal, we made sure to order a piece of cherry pie to go. Moxie was right, it didn't look quite like the recipe.  The crust didn't appear to have been made from scratch. But we took it back to our hotel fridge.
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I got sick that night and skipped dinner. (We at least can't blame it on food poisoning from Stagecoach) In the morning we packed up and forgot our pie. So, no notes on the food.  But I'm glad we experienced the atmosphere and some conversation, at the Stagecoach Inn!
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Dining Surprises at The Brown Palace

7/5/2017

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​Palace Arms, in Denver

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I have always been intrigued by images I've seen of the historic Brown Palace, in Denver. Unfortunately, the hotel was out of our price range during our recent Colorado road trip. Even a meal at the hotel's Palace Arms seemed to be over budget. 
Don and I settled for a drink at the Churchill Bar.

Entrance to Palace Arms & Churchill Bar
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Just stepping through the doorway from the hotel's grand atrium/lobby was a thrill. I stole a glance into the dining room, before we turned right, into the classy cigar bar. We skipped the cigars, but ordered some very festive martinis. 

​Traveling With a Cookbook

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It was killing me to be so close to the Palace Arms dining room, without experiencing a meal. Don and I were traveling with our vintage, Ford (motor company) Cookbook and we had spotted the Palace Arms in the Colorado section. When the book was printed in 1954, The Palace Arms was a new addition to the (then) 62 year old hotel. I was curious to compare the Napoleonic decor of the illustration, to the dining room today. I pretty much doubted they still served French Pancakes!

Sneaking a Longer Peek
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It was getting late, so I figured I'd dash over (with my book) to the dining room for a better look.  The host welcomed me in, but he was way too young to be amused by the old cookbook. I noticed a woman, who was just getting ready to leave. She'd been dining alone, so I caught her eye and asked about her meal. "Did you have French Pancakes?" I added with a chuckle, as I pointed to the recipe in the book.  She was my age, which was probably why she was intrigued by the cookbook.  We chatted more and I learned that her son happened to be the executive chef.

Stories With Mom and Chef
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Chef Kasper came out of the kitchen while we were chatting. His mom, Teresa introduced us, which meant I of course, had to share the book. He laughed at the recipe for French Pancakes. We talked about his culinary career, which was mighty impressive for such a young man. We chatted ourselves right into the Independence Dining Room with the historic mural/wallpaper. Kasper laughed at his memory of decorating the elegant room with dinosaurs, once. It was for a little boy's Make-A-Wish celebration. 

Photo Time
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Before heading back to Churchill's, I offered to use Teresa's cell phone to take her picture with Kasper. (We moms like pics with our sons) I wished her a safe trip back to Kansas and told her she should be incredibly proud of that boy of hers. Then both mom and son were kind enough to do the cookbook pose for my camera. They stood by the flag collection, which is shown in the book illustration.

Surprise at the Bar
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Don had wondered why I'd been gone so long.  Not long after I finished explaining my disappearance, Chef Kasper and few assistants, swooped in and surrounded us with some specially prepared dishes.

Surprise Feast!
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Kasper lingered briefly as he explained the dishes he'd created. Before darting back to the kitchen, he poured warm syrup on his spontaneous creation of French Pancakes, with feta and cherries with a flan-like lid! I was too stunned to absorb all his words! But the flavors were unforgettable! Garden fresh, cucumber and caviar salad... delightfully rich lamb with peas and mushrooms... I think! I so wish I could have recorded his descriptions!

Days Later
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The next day, I emailed photos to Kasper and thanked him for the amazing food experience. He encouraged us to return for a full meal the next time we passed through. He also mentioned that he could help us with hotel rates, if we did find ourselves back in Denver.

Long story short, Don and I altered our road trip.  A week later, we returned to Denver and this time we stayed at The Brown, thanks to Chef Kasper!
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​Another Surprise

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Shortly after checking into our hotel room, we answered the door to room service. Once again, I found myself feeling sort of speechless. Champagne, fruits, sweets, bread and cheese? Luckily our dinner reservations were on the late side!  

​Working Up An Appetite

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Just steps from our room, we could see when the afternoon tea ended and the evening jazz quartet arrived. It was a lively Friday night and we were able to enjoy the festive atmosphere before heading to the Palace Arms, for some serious dining!  


​Getting Started

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Don and I felt like V.I.P.s when the hostess ushered us to our comfy table by the stained glass window. Our gracious waiter, Harrison flawlessly served us... when Chef Kasper wasn't serving us, himself.

Harrison offered a menu, but he gave us another option and we chose it. We decided we were game for being served the Chef's Choice. Harrison told us with a smile, "We'll just keep bringing food until you've had enough!"  
We started with a tomato and Feta salad, served on a salt block.  The chilled block kept the veggies crisp and cold, only melting enough to add a bit of salty flavor!  I might add, the bread that came before, was mouth watering. It was hard to hold back.

​More and More and More!

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The timing of our dishes added to the decadent experience. Four more courses came before dessert. Nothing felt hurried or overdone or uncomfortably formal. Kasper slipped out each time to squat down by the table and explain each dish.  He and Harrison never intruded or lingered too long. We seemed to have enough time between courses to miraculously work up an appetite for the next. Everything from the food on the plates to the timing of the service, was totally balanced.

4 More Dishes
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Each dish arrived with surprises! Once again, I found myself unable to remember all the details! There were so many new flavors and surprising combinations. There was buttery salmon with caviar and mouthwatering greens. The crispy pork medallions sat on a heavenly hominy sauce, with a surprise of baby corn... which was really a custard, shaped like corn! My favorite was the beef filet with mushrooms. 
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When the glass covers were lifted from our plates, we were hit with a poof of aroma... smoked beef and mushroom! Yum!

To the Finish
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I still can't figure out what Kasper did, that created a sizzling excitement when he poured our tea! The dessert of rhubarb and pine berries, also had a story I can't explain. Mostly the balance of sweet and sour brought back my own childhood stories, of eating crunchy rhubarb, dipped in sugar, as a child! (Kasper's is much better!)

More Talk and Surprises
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Don and I had more questions while we finished up our dessert. Since we were the last diners, Kasper pulled up a chair to chat. We sipped tea and Kasper guzzled some water, refilled by Harrison a couple times. We asked about how Kasper got interested in cooking, as a young boy.
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We talked about the places he has lived and we even talked about his dog.  But mostly we talked about food and restaurants. My biggest surprise was learning that all the dishes he'd served us, he was trying for the first time! Kasper has a passion for creating and presenting food. He seems incredibly serious for such a young man. And he was incredibly generous when he sent us off with a bag full of jams, sauces and breads.

Thanks!
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Once again, Don and I were full of huge thank-yous! Our special hotel rate, helped us go ahead and splurge on a special dinner. I'm very sure our bill didn't reflect all we ate. And I know for sure, we ended up with a whole lot more than a good meal. We have a memory now, of being treated like a King and Queen, at the Palace Arms. That may be as close as I ever get to being treated Royally anywhere!  
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It's been nearly 2 weeks since our feast and I'm still trying to process how it all fell into place. We're back home in Texas now, but I'm about ready to go back and figure it all out!
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       The Dining Blog

    This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food.  Below, you can read how this started.


    On
    July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year!  (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to  join me, on some unusual dining adventures.  I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise.  Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining.  I have continued  blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned  along the way!
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