|
A Cafe in The Gardens For many years I've hoped to have a return visit to La Casina Dell'Orologio.  The little green cafe is in the heart of Villa Borghese Gardens, in Rome. 1969 I remember visiting The Gardens with my family, in 1969. I was 11 and it felt like a magical oasis, after days of touring museums and cathedrals.
We 4 kids got to take a rowboat out on the lagoon. We visited the zoo and my dad held my brother up to feed the giraffe.  I remember how good it felt to stop and eat at an outdoor cafe on that beautiful spring day. I've never been able to recall the cafe's name, but I always hoped to someday find the place I remembered... with sweet doggies and funny statues. Piazza del Popolo In 2023, Don and I flew into Rome on Good Friday. We only had one day to visit The Eternal City.  Luckily our hotel was near the wonderful Piazza del Popolo. I only had to climb some stairs to reach the beautiful gardens that sit high on a hill above Rome. I gave myself an hour to explore. No time to dine, but I hoped to find the cafe I remembered. It was a lovely spring day. Just like 1969. I wandered and found the little green cafe!  I took a photo of the name so I would remember... for whenever we returned to Rome. October 2025 It was fall the next time we were in Rome. Once again we stayed at a hotel near Piazza del Popolo and we climbed the slippery steps to reach the park.
It was cloudy and windy and the towering trees moved like eerie monsters.  I spotted one of the many statue busts, like the one in my family photo.  The property looked a bit ominous. Or was I just feeling concerned because I'd read some pretty awful reviews about the sweet green cafe. Rude staff... awful food... high prices. Don and I figured we'd avoid disappointment and just stop in for cappuccino. Welcoming As we got closer, a framed menu lured us. I could see an open door with glowing lights.
We stepped inside and the cafe felt fresh and relaxed. It had just opened. The interior seemed inviting with its chandeliers and mosaic floors. I told the man holding menus that we'd like to sit outside.  He invited us to sit anywhere, so we made sure to find a table near one of the serious looking marble busts.
It wasn't the same head that looked over my family's table in 1969, but this one looked just as serious. Giacoma Zanella The patio tables were more enclosed than years ago, so I had to step outside the bushes to get a good look at the serious man who stood above our table. Hmm? Was C. Spazzi the sculptor?  The internet told me Mr. Zanella was an Italian poet. Cardinal Guglielmo Massaia While stepping outside the patio, I paused a moment to look at another notable Italian, with a pigeon on his head.  I looked up Mr. Massaia and learned he was a missionary, who did work in Ethiopia. There are over 200 busts displayed throughout the Pincian Hill Area, of the Borghese Gardens. Evidently 3 are actually women. Menu Back at the table, it was time to make a coffee choice. There were about 16 coffee options on the menu.  I was pretty amazed I could get a cappuccino for less than 5 euros. The whining reviews that I read earlier, complained of high prices. But I'd pay plenty for a drink or meal, seated anywhere in Borghese Gardens. Coffee Corrected Don was pretty excited about the idea of corrected coffee. We learned that "corrected" meant a shot of booze. The Italians started "correcting" or masking the odd flavors of coffee substitutes in the 1930s... back when coffee was hard to get, due to high taxes.  It wasn't even noon yet, but Don figured, "When in Rome..." He went for the Coffee With Corrected National Spirits. Corrected with Amora, an Italian liqueur. Just one euro more!  Don looks as serious as our nearby poet friend. Despite his expression, he enjoyed his special coffee very much. I was happy with my cappuccino. No decaffeintated barley cappuccino for me.  It was pleasantly quiet that morning at the cafe. I looked around us and wondered where my family had been seated in 1969. Everything looked more spread out.  I told our server that I had come here as a child in the '60s. He said there had been many changes since then. New Addition He took me inside to see the newest addition.  I counted 5 tree trunks, rising up through the roof. Since 1922 The trees were a reminder that this area had once been outside. It was a little hard communicating, but our server seemed enthused that I was interested in the history.  The cafe actually began as a small wooden kiosk, in 1922. It was reconstructed in 1960 and expanded with indoor seating, in 1970. This larger area came much later, I believe. I spotted a marble bust in the corner and walked over to have a better look.  This guy named Gino had a beard, so he was not the statue near our table 56 years ago. Eyes? Wikipedia told me that Gino Capponi was an "Italian statesman and historian of a Liberal Catholic bent."  Wikipedia didn't tell me why all the marble busts seemed to be asleep. However Later, I learned that the eyes of the statues in the park, were originally painted on. Obviously after time, the painted irises and pupils wore off. A Nice Visit I feel so lucky that our relaxed visit to La Casina turned out well.
I wish I'd never read the poor reviews. I'm so glad that we felt welcomed and enjoyed our coffees beside that serious poet.
Maybe on the next visit to Rome, we'll order a bite and rent a rowboat and feed a giraffe!
0 Comments
Cafe-Museum We were the only diners inside this little museum. last October. It was magical.  The only other diners we saw at Canova Tadolini were seated outside. They were focused on food & drink, not art. "Museo Atelier" Don and I stumbled across this remarkable place while wandering in Rome last October. The brass sign near the door, had the Italian words for museum and studio. It also had the names of 2 artists.  We knew a bit about the sculptor, Antonio Canova. We learned later that Adamo Tadolini had been Canova's prized student and this building became their studio in 1818. Ugliest Fountain in Rome We actually didn't see the brass sign right away, when we were strolling down Via del Babuino. We could have totally missed the curious art-filled cafe, if something odd hadn't caught our attention first.  This moss covered man with the odd expression, was in front of Caffe Canova Tadolini. Babuino The creepy 16th century figure is nicknamed Babuino, which means Baboon. It is one of Rome's "talking statues". I wasn't familiar with that term, but it's worth a Google search.  We studied the odd fellow lounging above the fountain, looking out over the street. The street actually had a different name once, but it became Via del Babuino, eventually. Babuino is obviously very influential! We weren't the only ones pausing to study Babuino. He has drawn attention for hundreds of years.
This dapper man paused to look at the statue, before heading off with his briefcase. Plain Building After admiring the "furry man" we noticed the building behind. It looked simple but curious, with leaded glass windows and flags.  We saw cafe tables and a pretty church, just beyond. Only a few of the cafe tables were occupied at 11 am. A Bold Entrance We headed on our way, then stopped abruptly when we spotted this bold entrance. It looked like a wild collection of statues, attempting to escape!  As we peered inside, a man greeted and invited us in.  The room we entered looked like a museum. A somewhat cluttered museum.  I made Don pose to show the size of that enormous horse. Bar The room to the left of the entrance, held a bar. Evidence that this was not just a museum. I could see food on display, as well as sculptures.  The liquor bottles shared shelf space with some smaller sculptures. A large foot here and a pair of cherubs there... Inside Dining A waiter introduced himself as Jimmy. He seemed delighted when we asked to dine inside the museum, unlike the other guests.  He took us through a doorway, past a few important looking sculpted men. There were about 4 tables squeezed into the front room.  Don and I were both pretty clueless and assumed these were marble statues. We learned more later. I posed to show just how large and impressive these pieces were.  It turns out the museum was filled with 2 centuries worth of Italian sculpture. Most of what we saw were practice pieces, preparatory models and plaster casts used for creating finished sculptures. The final works are exhibited in museums around the world.  Don and I learned a little of this from some information written in the menus. But Jimmy spoke enough English to help us understand a little more. A New Room Jimmy ended up moving us to a back room, where we could absorb even more art and history. It was amazing to sit in this space where Canova and Tadolini worked together. The studio was handed over to Tadolini and 4 generations of his family produced work here.  The studio remained in the Tadolini family from 1818 to 1967. Adamo Tadolini's great-great-grandson Enrico Tadolini, was the last to work in this space. After his death in 1967, the studio was abandoned for a period. Jimmy's Favorite I asked Jimmy which piece was his favorite in the museum. He pointed to the figure behind him, that I thought was Madonna at first.  I was a bit confused, but I believe Jimmy said the statue was a practice piece, for a final sculpture that is now displayed in the Vatican. St. Frances Cabrini I took a closer look. The woman with the angel, is actually St. Frances Cabrini, who was canonized in 1946.  A nearby display of photos gave a little insight. Although I can't read Italian. I learned with some internet help, that it was Enrico Tadolini who sculpted this massive piece in 1947.  I studied the photos and tried to imagine how Enrico created this tremendous piece inside the studio, where we were about to have lunch. My eyes were drawn to the photo of Enrico, with the face of St. Frances Cabrini. The image is almost a little sad. He looks exhausted.  I have a new appreciation for these sculptors and the strenuous work that went into these especially large pieces. I read that Canova's death at age 64, was due to the physical damage done to his body, after years working with heavy tools. Relaxing in the Corner Don and I did nothing rigorous. We took a seat at a little table where we could enjoy all that surrounded us.  The framed piece beside Don, shows a 2022 stamp that honored Canova. From my chair, I could look out towards the entrance. The tall window made me imagine the artists, working on enormous pieces.  Across from me I studied a piano, holding smaller works.
The fancy woman and her fancy chair, intrigued me. The pieces were numbered, so it felt organized like a museum.  Yet the sculptures and sketches and photographs were so casually placed, it felt just like a cluttered studio.  Which I think was the point in the 1990s, when a gallery purchased all the works. (nearly 500) The idea was to create a restaurant, yet maintain the somewhat chaotic atmosphere of the original studio. History Besides the plaster sculptures and practice pieces, there were lots of photos and articles displayed.  This one shows the studio long ago. The entrance, with its massive door. Time for Food It seemed odd to order food in a museum, but we were hungry by 11:30.
We ordered cappuccino first.  Don ordered a ham panini for a reasonable 6.50 euros.  I was excited about my toast sandwich with ham, cheese, egg and lettuce.   A tasty late morning treat. People Watching We had the back room to ourselves until a man came with a ladder. We were entertained, watching him fix a spotlight.  After a while I was entertained by a woman who came in from outside. She seemed to be in search of a restroom. She headed for the corner and seemed confused to find a dead end. Then she magically disappeared. A hidden automatic door! Just another surprise in the museum. The Three Graces After finishing lunch I decided to try out the magical mystery door, myself. I walked past the familiar statue of The Three Graces... and wondered.
Canova's original from 1814, is in Russia now. I wish I'd asked Jimmy what he knew about this piece. Was it a practice piece? Before Departing We finished our meal and I took one more snap of the incredible room where we had just enjoyed a light meal.  Jimmy thanked us for coming and insisted on taking our photo.  He placed us at a table in front of his favorite statue. I have to chuckle at our awkward, yet happy pose. It looks like I'm wearing an artist's smock! Good Bye Babunio! We thanked Jimmy for our wonderful experience at the museum.  We headed out and said good-bye to Babuino and thanked him for catching our attention that morning!
What a wonderful Dining Adventure! Patio Lunch, in the Piazza Today I'm remembering a perfect little lunch, in a charming Italian piazza.  Don and I enjoyed cappuccino and pizza, while talking about the wonderful adventures we'd had that morning. Orvieto in 2023 We relaxed and chatted while looking across the cobblestone, towards the fabulous Duomo di Orvieto.  When Don and I planned our 2023 trip to Italy, I was giddy about squeezing in a day trip to Orvieto. I have fond memories of a spring day in 1969, when my family visited the beautiful cathedral and 2 other magical places. Postcards from 1969 At age 11 I didn't own a camera, but I obsessively bought postcards. While planning our recent trip, I dug up my old scrapbook. Don was easy to convince. We planned a day similar to the one I remembered from 1969.  We planned to visit an old well, an eerie park (with monsters and leaning towers) and then have lunch in Orvieto! St. Patrick's Well in Orvieto The old well was just how I remembered it. I remember traveling down one set of steps to reach the bottom and climbing up a different set, coming back up.  This was to prevent the mules (that carried water up from the well) from encountering the mules going down into the well! Don and I worked up a good appetite exploring the well before lunch! We met up with no mules or people. Park of the Monsters Before Don and I explored the well, we had another adventure, about 30 minutes outside of Orvieto. The eerie and amazing Park of the Monsters, was created hundreds of years ago. It was as mysterious and dreamlike, as I remembered.  I still cherish those magical memories of being a kid and crawling on top of the mossy statues. (no longer allowed) Restaurant on the Square Luckily both mini adventures were as fun as I remembered. By the time we finished exploring both places we were starved. We were happy to find Caffetteria Hescanas right on the piazza, across from the Cathedral.
A hallway greeted us, with a couple of odd tables, a bike and some ads on the wall. Outdoor Cafe We opted to be seated at a cafe table on the patio.  Our table gave us a perfect view of the gorgeous church. We sipped cappuccino and took in all the details.  I remember my parents adoring the decadent frothy drink, back in 1969. Cappuccino wasn't a beverage you could get easily in the States back then. As a kid, I loved the smell but could never be convinced to take a sip. But how good it tasted after our morning adventures.  A quick peek at the menu and it was clear that pizza was the way to go.  The fresh dough and fresh tomatoes tasted the way I remember Italian pizza back in 1969.  No anchovies on this pizza. As a kid I remember having to pick them off all the time! Exploring Inside I did a little wandering before we headed off.  There was a room filled with wine bottles and old photographs.  A cozy space had tables with red & white tablecloths.  I wanted badly to ask the man behind the counter how long this building had been standing. How long had it been a restaurant? Generations maybe? But he was engaged in serious conversation. I headed back to our table.  Our pizza meal was simple and lovely. I'll never forget how lucky I felt to sit there knowing I had just shown Don some of the favorite places I remembered fondly from childhood. We headed across the street and toured the Cathedral. Below are a few slideshows of each! Park of the Monsters No climbing on the monsters today. But at least the park was still open to visitors. We mostly had the park to ourselves, until a school group arrived as we finished our visit. St. Patrick's Well Built 1527... 2 spiral staircases with a total of 497 steps. permitted mule drawn carts carrying water! We also had the well to ourselves! Traveling in early April pays off! Duomo di Orvieto This cathedral is one of my very favorites in Italy. The tour of the Duomo di Orvieto was the icing on the cake. Monsters, Well, Pizza and Cathedral, all in one glorious day!
Best and Best In April 2021, Don and I dined at what I think is the best restaurant, in the seaside village of Vernazza.  It's hard to decide, but I also believe Vernazza may be the best of the 5 villages, in Italy's Cinque Terre district. BEST restaurant in BEST village! Lovely Vernazza Silly me. I'm not exactly qualified to decide the BEST of anything. Don and I were in Vernazza just 2 nights. We only stayed in 2 of the 5 villages.  But Vernazza is indeed storybook charming. Piazza Marconi, the harbor, Gothic Santa Margherita Church and the colorful, untouched 11-12th century buildings... plus hills & vineyards! Gorgeous even on a rainy day! Pink & Green We only sampled a few restaurants. Gianni Franzi (pink builidng) was next door to another inviting restaurant, in a pale green building.  The walkway between the two, led us on an exhausting maze-like adventure up to our hotel, La Mala. We passed both restaurants numerous times a day. Dining in the Piazza The 2 restaurants next to the steps, offered outside dining on Piazza Marconi, overlooking the harbor. But the restaurant in the green/yellow building, was the only one with intriguing wooden stools.
The diners who gathered later, also intrigued me. Lots of enthused voices, speaking Italian. Gianni Franzi on Piazza Marconi My mind was already made up about where we would dine the first night. For years, my friend Lorrie has raved about Gianni Franzi. Not just the food, but Gianni himself! I could already picture the outside tables, where Gianni often greets guests. Seating was actually outside the yellow building. Just steps from the pink restaurant.  But it was drizzling when our train arrived. Piazza Marconi was filled with fishing boats, instead of cafe tables.  The rain stopped by 4:30, but tables looked as moist as the hanging laundry.  However, the table umbrellas soon opened. Should we book a table in, or out? Reservations It was chilly after the rain, so we decided to book an inside table. I hiked down to the restaurant to make the reservations in person.  The restaurant was closed, but luckily I could speak with someone in the bar. A young man greeted me and very efficiently had me put my name on a card, to reserve a table for the first seating of the night. Cave-like! We arrived at 7 and stepped into the dining room. It looked like it was carved from rock. There were already diners seated, even though the restaurant opened at 7. We were greeted by Paulo who would be our server. We followed him towards a table where he picked up a card and asked, "Is this you?"  It wasn't me, so he hunted some more. When Paulo found the card with my name, he smiled and quickly exchanged cards with another table. I couldn't make out exactly what he said, but something about a better table! No complaints! Menu Time Paulo handed us menus. Don wanted to know about the logo right away.  Paulo had the same colorful images on his shirt. A fish with an arrow pointing to a mouth. An eye with an arrow pointing to a symbol for water. He seemed amused that we were pausing to decipher the code. We can eat some fish, with views of the sea! Absorbing the Atmosphere A moment later, Paulo brought us some bread to enjoy while we studied the menu.  My eyes kept wandering from the menu, to the walls, to the nearby tables.  There was very little wall space, that wasn't made of stone. That seemed to make the artwork twice as dramatic, displayed on the few white wall spaces. Unknown History The room was filled in a matter of minutes. I wanted to climb over tables and onto chairs, to study the wood beams above the stone arches. How old was this building?  I never learned the building's age, but I did read that there's been a restaurant within these walls, since before WWII. Before the war, the trattoria was owned by an interesting character who drank a lot and didn't care for tourists. It was then called Trattoria della Stella. Cheers Don and I started with drinks. Don went for the Italian cocktail, Negroni.
Cinque Terre is more known for white wine, but I like red. I chose a Chianti named for the Italian explorer, Verrazzano. I actually know nothing about him, but I do remember watching the Verrazzano Bridge being built in NY, when I was 6. Cheers to that! Fried Anchovies I used to hate anchovies, but Lorrie told me the fried anchovies were amazing. The last time I had anchovies in Italy, was on my 11th birthday. I remember begging the waiter to keep the anchovies off my pizza. It didn't help. I had to pick them off. But that was over a half century ago and my tastebuds have changed.  We were a little worried when Paulo said they didn't have fried anchovies on the menu. But then he smiled. "You just have to ask for it." Best Waiter The anchovies were just as crispy and fresh as Lorrie said. The lemon added just the right zing. Paulo was happy that we loved the appetizer. But he teased that he preferred it without lemon!  All the waiters seemed friendly and upbeat, but I'm pretty sure we got the best server. The waiters wore the same shirt as Paulo. Matching shirts and lots of playful banter, made me feel like all the diners were being served by a happy soccer team. Ligurian Pasta This cozy trattoria has specialized in typical Ligurian dishes since Francesco Ferrari (nicknamed Franzi) bought Trattoria della Stella, (from the guy who disliked tourists) sometime after WWll.  My traditional Torfie al pesto, was absolutely mouthwatering. The home-made pasta was equally delicious. Don was just as enthused with his spaghetti al sugo. I was so giddy I did the unthinkable and touristy thing and texted Lorrie. She texted me a video of Gianni greeting her at the table last September with a big hug. I showed it to Paulo. He was properly amused and suddenly disappeared. Gianni! Evidently Gianni had just walked in the door, a moment before. Paulo sent him over to meet us. He reached out to shake both our hands and suddenly we were gushing about our wonderful dinner.  Gianni seemed sincerely delighted to meet us. And he was also happy to pose. His warmth and chatty conversing, made us feel like we were VIPs! Don and I laughed later to think there might have been some communication issues, that led to the sudden enthusiasm. When I shared the video of Lorrie greeting Gianni, did they think she was a celebrity? I'd say, Lorrie and her husband could pass for celebrities! If a language barrier led to our special treatment, I need to learn to perfect this! Heading Off It was such a treat to meet the Gianni, who has owned this charming place since the 1960s. It was extra fun to have a waiter who seemed to enjoy serving us. When Paulo brought the bill, he smiled and mentioned that the fried anchovies were on the house. The meal memory suddenly got even better!  We headed into the bar area, to pay the bill. The bar space seemed louder and more crowded. I added to my mental list. I think we lucked out with the best table in the dining room... served by the best waiter... in the best restaurant in Vernazza... in the best village in Cinque Terre! Post Dinner When we headed outside, it was chilly. I spotted a couple of (possibly shivering) diners. I was glad we'd opted to dine inside.  We'd missed the sunset that night. But it had been cloudy anyway. Now it was dark and it didn't matter.  We walked out past the harbor and looked back at the picture perfect, glowing village. Next Day The next day the weather was sunnier and warmer. By evening, the Piazza was free of boats and the Gianni Franzi's dining area was full.  Next time, we'll come a few weeks later in April and make sure to enjoy a meal (and sunset) on the Piazza! Good-bye Vernazza The last day we hiked high above Vernazza, before taking off on the train. We absorbed a totally different view of the magical town.  Since our dinner 2 nights before, I'd had time to search the internet and learn that Gianni has owned the trattoria since the 1960s. He was just 14 when he began working as a bus boy for Franzi. I concluded that would have been the 1950s, since I saw birthday post on Facebook. Looks like Gianni must be 87 now. I'm so grateful that we got to meet this gracious, hardworking man.
It boggles my mind in this ever-changing world, that this village looks so much like it did when Gianni was teen, carrying dishes inside the trattoria! I wish I could snap my fingers and speak fluent Italian and hear his stories! Harbor Dining in Cinque Terre In April (2023) Don and I dined at this sweet little place overlooking the smallest harbor in Cinque Terre, Italy.  The deck with (unnecessary) umbrellas, was perched right over it. View From our Hotel We only had 2 nights in the sweet village of Riomaggiore. Our hotel balcony offered us our own table view of the harbor.
We could keep an eye on the outdoor diners, from our balcony. Old Building Modern Look The restaurant was only open one of the 2 days, during our visit. On the day it was open, I trotted over around noon and made dinner reservations.  The modern interior had a very different feel, than the rugged building that housed the restaurant. 7:00 Reservations Unsure of weather, we reserved an inside table for 7:00. We stepped inside and admired the white-washed space with vaulted ceiling. It looked like the restaurant had been carved out of a cliff.  The modern artwork was a fun contrast to the exposed rough-hewn stone! Menu of Ligurian Dishes Like most restaurants in Cinque Terre, the focus was on traditional seafood dishes.  With fishing boats resting beneath the restaurant's deck, it made sense that the seafood was netted from the nearby sea. Red Wine? Don and I knew that Riomaggiore was known for white wine. We thought we had ordered a local white wine...  But the wine that was delivered along with our bread, looked mighty red. If we spoke more than a few words of Italian, we would have discussed this. Instead, we drank. Testaroli i Al Pesto Noce We tried to order dishes that were from the region.  My dish came looking like spongy pieces of dark pancake, with walnuts. I had expected pine nuts, but again my Italian is limited. I enjoyed this rich little dish. Ravioli Di Pesce Don is the fish guy, so he ordered the fish ravioli, with chopped shrimp and vegetable sauce. Peas and carrots added a dash of color to our table. Both dishes were rich and interesting, but not out of this world.  The service was also not overly memorable. A team of women servers worked swiftly to serve all the tables at once. It seemed tricky to have all diners arriving at the same time, when the restaurant reopened at 7. Checking Out We didn't linger over dessert. Don checked us out at a little window, which also made the experience less personal.  I wish we'd had more interaction with the staff, but at least the people watching had been entertaining. No Americans at all. Quick Dash Down... Our lack of lingering worked for us. We were able to dash down the stairs and walk towards the sea, just after sunset.  We passed numerous boats.
We headed along the walkway, on the left side of the marina. And then we climbed!
After about 100 steps, we reached a lovely spot for viewing the orange horizon. We also had a good view of our sweet hotel, tucked into the cliff.
What a lovely way to burn off our pasta calories! Dinner followed by a brief walk and a glorious view! What a perfect combo! |
The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
February 2026
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed