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Austin's Original Honky Tonk For over 2 decades I've said the same thing every time we've passed Broken Spoke on South Lamar.  "Let's go there sometime." Motivation It took a 5-year-old cowgirl to get us motivated to give it a try.  Last week, Charlie told her grandparents she was game. She put on her boots and so did I. Wheels and Spokes After a 45 minute drive in traffic we arrived, ready to see wheels and spokes. That's because we'd had a mighty long discussion about the name Broken Spoke.  Charlie was excited to count about 8 wagon wheels right away. She was extra excited to see that each had a broken spoke. 4 on a Friday We arrived when doors opened at 4. There was a lot to read, around the door.  I glanced at the historic marker and learned that James M. White opened the dance hall in 1964, just south of the city limits...at a former lumber yard. Rowdy and Others When we stepped inside the dimly lit saloon, we heard greetings from the only occupied table in the front room.
A handful of employees were seated at an octagonal table finishing a meal. This odd character sat with them.  One of the upbeat voices was Mandy. She complimented Charlie's boots and later introduced her to Rowdy, the sad looking character who sits permanently at the table. Decor Mandy noticed Charlie looking around at the curious decor.  I never expected Charlie to feel so at home in an old saloon, but Mandy knew all the right questions to warm Charlie up. They talked about boots and music. Charlie suddenly was eager to tell Mandy about her dance recital the next day. Dance Hall Mandy decided that since Charlie was a "dancer", she should take a peek inside the dance hall.  It was hours before the doors would open for music and dancing. We felt pretty lucky to enjoy the 1,500 square foot space with no one around.  The sign above Charlie reminded us not to STAND on the dance floor. It also insisted "NO LINE DANCING". Charlie followed rules and ran instead. Authentic Little has changed since the dance hall opened over 60 years ago.
Checked tablecloths and folding chairs... a big fan and some neon here and there. On Stage Mandy invited Charlie to get on the stage.  Charlie wanted me to step up there with her. I think she looks a little perplexed. Maybe because no one handed her a mic. She's been known to do a little karaoke with her mom. "Tourist Trap" As we headed back to the front room, Charlie peeked into a glowing room filled with photo displays.  A voice from behind the bar said "Your welcome to look around the Tourist Trap! We were happy to wander around a bit.  Most of the old photos and magazines had faces of western singers and performers that I didn't recognize. I recognized the name of the president who was born not far from Austin. I couldn't figure out if this hat actually once belonged to President Johnson.
Charlie didn't need help figuring out what the wooden holder was. "This is for a violin." She announced. Was that actually some kind of fiddle stand? Should Have Counted It was a little like an Easter egg hunt, looking for wagon wheels.  We should have counted all the wheels inside the saloon and dance hall. Some of the spokes were more broken than others.
Charlie was a little amused by a framed photo of George Strait, behind one wheel. She wanted me to explain why there were lipstick kisses all over the glass. Willie and Others A lot of performers got their start at Broken Spoke. Willie Nelson played with Kris Kristofferson in the mid sixties.  That was long before Willie had braids. He had a crewcut then, when he came back to Texas after some time in Nashville. George... Dolly Charlie posed with George Strait, even though she didn't know who he was.  Too bad we couldn't find a life-sized Dolly Parton. Charlie is a big fan... after a visit to Dollywood last year. Dolly spent some time at Broken Spoke, when she filmed a TV movie here in 1987. Early Dinner After exploring the Tourist Trap, we headed past the old bar to find a table in the front room.  Our plan was to have an early dinner before the Friday night crowds arrived.  We had lots of entertaining booths to choose from.  Charlie choose a table where she could keep an eye on Rowdy.  We were also near a saddle, enclosed in glass. We wondered if anyone would join Rowdy at his table since the staff was up and working. He looked pretty lonely. Food Mandy gave us some good advice for ordering. We started with a salad covered in Thousand Island.  Then Chicken Fried Steak smothered in gravy. Since Mandy had warned about the CF Steak being bigger than Charlie's head, we took her advice and split.  Charlie had chicken quesadillas. She was a little afraid of our chicken fried, but she was very excited when we shared our fries. We did not share our Lone Star Beer. Tracie From our table we had fun watching some activity near the front door. They were setting up for some live music.  Tracie paused from setting up, to chat with Charlie. She showed her the pool table in another room. Tracie said she was mighty jealous of Charlie's name. She'd always wanted it, since it was her dad's name. Live Music We were too early for the dance hall, but we got live entertainment in the saloon!  When Broken Spoke opened in '64, they only had a juke box. These two filled the saloon with some fine country music and entertaining banter. A Dancing Friend By 5:00, 2 more tables were occupied. A 4-year-old girl and her parents took the table right next to us. The girls had something in common. Dance! The sweet 4-year-old had just been in a dance recital that afternoon.
Tracie encouraged the "Tiny Dancers" to get up and enjoy the music. And they absolutely did! Charlie's favorite was "These Boots Are Made For Walking". I could hear her singing the song later that night in her bed. Bye George After 2 hours at the Spoke, it was time to get going. Charlie and I headed for the Ladies Room first and found a bathroom full of Georges.
We counted and came up with about 45 George smiles! Add one more for the giant George on the ceiling! To Be Continued Skies were stormy and damp when we headed out. That helped us see the neon!  What a fun evening, enjoying this iconic honky tonk... sort of through the eyes of a 5-year-old.
We headed to the car with plans to come back another night with Charlie's parents. 2-Step dance lessons are available at 8 and kids are welcome! I see more Broken Spoke Adventures in our future!
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2 Mini-Feasts in Sicily Last October Don and I had only a few hours in Taormina. Sinfully short! Yet somehow we managed to explore AND have 2 quick dining adventures.  First we had a quick bite at Caffe Wunderbar. It was indeed Wonderful! Gelato!  Before leaving, I enjoyed a some refreshing pistachio gelato, at Gelato Fresla! 56 Years Ago The last time I was in Taormina was in 1969. I was 11 and my dad was on the faculty of a study abroad program with Florida State.  Our family spent a day touring ruins with 2 busloads of college students. Then we picnicked and then I picked flowers. Roman Greco Theatre When Don and I visited in fall of 2025, we worked up a good appetite while we climbed up to catch a stunning view at the top of the old Roman Greco Theatre.  Our nephew was with us and took this photo. I told Andy how I remembered sitting on those stone seats, 56 years ago. I watched a Greek Tragedy that my dad (Andy's grandpa) had directed.  I still remember being so very jealous, because my brother (Andy's uncle) got to play a small part in a scene. Caffe Wunderland from 1870 I remember the theatre and the flowers, but I can recall very little about the charming hilltop town. I certainly have no memory of Caffe Wunderland, but it was there in the 1969. In 1969 the cafe (once an inn ) had already been sitting there on the piazza for nearly a century.  In the 1960s, Taormina was a popular destination for Hollywood elite. Celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Tennessee Williams and Greta Garbo were known to spend time at Caffe Wunderbar. October 2025 There were no celebrity sightings when we first noticed the tables outside the lovely Ristorante.  There were no people sightings at all, when I peeked inside the the lovely and modern interior. No one wanted to sit inside on such a glorious day. Most dining guests were enjoying meals on Wunderbar's terrace overlooking the sea.  The panoramic terrace had sweeping views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. Chris & Karen We spotted my brother and sister-in-law who had already enjoyed a feast with pasta and seafood.  We were able to find a table not far from them. The historic town was swarming with tourists, but our table was a laid back oasis.  We enjoyed a few little tidbits. Crackers and olives and sweet cookies of some kind.  A bottle of wine would have been nice, but we didn't have time for lingering long. Don and I each ordered cappuccino, served in china cups, with the Wunderbar logo.  We split a large Toast with prosciutto, wrapped in paper. Andy shared some of his bruschetta, or was it called "pane croccante", which means crisp bread... I'm trying to remember.  I don't recall exactly. But I do recall we were very content that day.  It was one of my very favorite days on our 15-day cruise! Gelataria Fresla Earlier while wandering up the main street, I noticed a Sicilian cart filled with pomegranates.  After we finished our quick lunch, I raced back to where I'd seen the cart, outside of Gelateria Fresla! Pistachio! I knew what flavor I needed to enjoy before we left Taormina. 
Here are some of the sights we saw while wandering in Taormina. Next time we need to stay a few days and find out what the town is like when the day tourists are all gone! No Clowns No Elephants Don and I have dined at a few silly circus-themed restaurants over the years. This past April at Ringling Grillroom, they had no colorful clown or tent decorations.  Instead we had a lovely lunch with a more sophisticated circus focus. The cafe was on the property once owned by the famous circus magnate, John Ringling. Our dining adventure included lots of exploring before and after our meal. Touring the Ringling Property We started working up an appetite in the morning, while touring the incredible 66-acre Ringling estate property.  I was as giddy as a kid going to the circus, when we walked through this entrance to buy tickets. My kid-like exuberance had to do with my memories of exploring the Ringling Property with my siblings, in the '60s & '70s. Bayside Property Our family spent quite a bit of time in Sarasota, mostly summers. Dad directed plays at the historic Asolo Theatre, which was on the magical Ringling property, sitting beside Sarasota Bay.  tIn an old brochure, I found an aerial view of the estate that shows the 4 areas I remember. Art museum, Theatre, Ringling mansion and circus museum. Ca'd'Zan, the Ringling Mansion I was eager to show Don the splendid winter retreat that John and Mable Ringling built in the Roaring Twenties. I fondly recall going through the rooms of this Venetian Gothic mansion as a kid. I had never been in a mansion before and my imagination went wild. Where would I sleep? Would I have servants? Could I fish in the bay? It was as grand as I remembered. Don and I did not tour all 56 rooms! The Circus & Art Museums After the mansion Don and I roamed through the buildings that make up the Ringling Museums. The exhibits that feature circus history, is housed in 2 buildings now.  As an adult it's pretty fascinating trying to wrap your head around the idea of a circus empire that involved nearly 2,000 people. The history is amazing. As a kid these exhibits inspired my imagination and a few backyard circuses with neighborhood kids. A visit to the Ringling Art Museum was also a must. The 21-gallery museum was established in 1927, by John & Mable Ringling.  I remember being 11 and wandering inside the pink palace, with rooms that held paintings bigger than my bedroom. When I visited as a 12 year-old, I observed with wiser eyes, since our family had returned from 6 months in Italy. I had a lot to compare to, yet the Ringling Museum (with its copy of Michelangelo's David) seemed just as grand as before! Bayfront Gardens During our visit in April, the weather was ideal. Exploring the grounds was as satisfying as visiting the mansion and museums. We found the Dwarf Gardens and the Ringling cemetery. We strolled on paths through clusters of enormous banyan trees. I spent a moment in Mable's Rose Garden and recognized the little gazebo, where I sat with friends. There must be 100 statues on the property, but Don and I weren't able to find the mythical character with the tail... that I recall from nearly 60 years ago. My brothers and I found it while exploring the property, when Dad was in rehearsal one day. My very convincing older brother Chris, explained to his younger siblings that we too were born with tails and they'd been cut off at birth. We believed him! Hungry By 1:00 our feet were tired and stomachs were empty. If only the old Banyan Cafe had been open. The curious looking cafe was designed by William Rupp in 1961. It's now being restored.  I was pretty excited to find the Ringling Grillroom in the Visitor's Pavilion, which was built about 20 years ago.  The hostess said we didn't need reservations since it was fairly quiet. She said the cafe can get pretty packed, before and after Asolo Repertory Theatre shows.  There were a few inside tables available. The small bar had seating as well. Outside Dining Don and I asked to be seated on the outside terrace if possible.  There was a nice view of the entrance to the main circus museum building.  We watched a group of school kids exiting and felt lucky we'd missed crowds during our roaming around. Menu Options There was no circus decor in the restaurant, but there were some fun nods to the old circus world, in the menu.  I was surprised that prices were so reasonable. G-Room Salad I didn't see any popcorn or peanuts, so I ordered the "G-Room Salad". G-Room is the nickname for Grillroom, but it took me a moment to figure that out.  My salad was good enough to be named after the restaurant! The spiced toasted seeds, crumbled feta Granny Smith apples and crisp veggies made it a refreshing choice. It really was perfect! Bigger and tastier than my photo. Don's Grilled Chicken Panini was thick and hearty. I stole many of his tasty fries!  After finishing, we had time to chat with our server quite a bit. I asked what she knew about the Asolo Theatre. She knew the 18th century theatre was dismantled in Italy and moved to the property in 1951. She said in 2006 it was moved again. I was confused to realize the gorgeous U-shaped "jewel-box theatre" was inside the 20-year-old Visitor's Pavilion. Late '60s We gabbed a bit and I shared briefly about my memories of the theatre, going back to 1968. I didn't force our kind server to listen to anymore rambling. I didn't tell her that I was obsessed with my memories and still had old programs and brochures in boxes back home.  I didn't mention that the first Asolo play my dad directed was the Greek Tragedy Antigone, done in modern times with Neru jackets! I could have mentioned that I recently studied the program and found the name Paul Rubenfeld. Evidenly young Paul played the part of a page. He was a teenager and just an apprentice at Asolo. That was long before he became "PeeWee Herman". Closed Instead of boring our server I just asked where the entrance to the theatre was. She gave directions but wasn't hopeful that I could get inside. The door was indeed locked.  Rats! We paused a moment and I studied a curious poster next to the door. An animated fellow named Luciano Rosso was evidently opening in 2 days. Just then I heard the door handle rattle. Out came a woman carrying a broom and cleaning supplies. She spoke little English and I probably spoke too fast. I tried to explain why I was so eager to peek inside. She seemed somewhat amused and also a little worried... something about not having the authority.  "I'll be so quick!" I begged. She let me in and waited for me. There were 2 men working on the stage and they likely saw me as I snapped 2 photos. I stood for less than a minute, but absorbed the charm and recalled my thrill at sitting in those box seats. I headed back out, where my dear lady was waiting.  As I thanked her, the door opened and a man walked out. Before registering his concern (or lack of) I began to do the talking. I questioned what was going on in there, as if I was some kind of amateur reporter. He laughed and pointed to the poster. "Prepping for a show." he answered. My eyes went from the poster to the man and I concluded. "Is that you?" His eyebrows went up and he laughed again, claiming he wasn't Luciano. The ice was broken and we got to chat a bit. I got to babble about childhood memories. When he mentioned that he was from Sarasota and I wanted to talk for days. What it was like to grow up in "Circus Town" where public school offers classes in circus arts? But it was time to move on. I thanked the man and the very kind woman and we were on our way... after a quick trip to the gift shop.
What a fun and nostalgic dining adventure! At Last I love pancakes and I love a circus theme. I've had my eye on this place since we first visited Sac, 9 years ago.  The Sacramento restaurant has been serving food on Broadway since 1961, although there were no clowns and maybe no pancakes then. It became Pancake Circus in the 1970s. Monday in May Don and I parked in the lot on a Monday morning in May.  The sign said breakfast anytime. It was 8:30. Could I order steak and seafood anytime? We passed a colorful window with clown art.  We were early enough for the Early Bird Special.
The steaming pancake art tempted me. The devil-moon and the fork-eating clown sort of scared me. But a smiling clown greeted us inside.  We did as the sign politely asked. We waited for just a brief moment near the cashier's counter, filled with clown figurines.  There were also framed clowns on the wall and clowns dangling from balloons and a parachute. Luckily Don and I are not freaked out by clowns. Many are. Seating There were 3 seating areas. 140 seats I believe.  Don and I were seated in a booth near the window. There were about a dozen coffee colored booths that matched the dark woodwork. There was a room in the back, with seating. A perfect place for a pancake party! Which I've never thought about having before.  From the "party room" I had a good view of the jolly light fixtures, that I wish I'd captured in a closeup. The gold and green circus tent shapes, looked so 1970s. The far out fixtures almost looked like something Marcia, Jan & Cindy Brady might have had in their TV bedroom. It was tempting to ask for a seat at the counter.  There were over a dozen cushioned stools. All seats had nice views of the curious cut-out animals. Was that smiling orange bear, Winnie the Pooh? Was that a Tigger, with the yellow face and big nose? The lion I didn't recognize. Mouthwatering Wallpaper We had a window view, but some tables had a view of pancake wallpaper!
It was a refreshing treat to see a spotlight on pancakes, in this dining room full of circus. Cecilia Our server Cecilia was friendly and efficient and she kept our coffee cups filled.  Since she'd been working at Pancake Circus for 17 years, I had a special question for her. How Many Clowns? I wondered if anyone had any idea how many clowns were displayed at Pancake Circus.  Cecilia didn't know, so I went for another question. "Have you ever served a clown here?" She laughed and said a group of costumed clowns used to come in now and then. She gestured towards the space I'd decided was a party room and said that's where they'd sit. I loved picturing that! Food Don and I seemed to be the only guests who even looked at their menu. The diners we observed all seemed to know what they were going to order before arriving.
There were options for "seniors" on the menu, so Don and I embraced our ages and enjoyed.  Don was pleased with his fried egg, potatoes and sausage. I ordered pancakes and scrambled eggs, with crispy bacon. $7.99!  I don't have Influencer Skills or I would have arranged my bacon and poured my syrup over melting butter. My photo does not look nearly as good as it tasted. I was honestly surprised, since reviews had been mixed. This was a tasty, hot choice! Wandering After enjoying our food, I wandered a bit to snap some pics.  I know that clowns are not everyone's favorite, but I appreciated the endless collection.  I wish I knew more about how these circus decorations had been acquired. I did read somewhere that many diners have added to the collection over the years.  Much of the decor is kitschy. But there's fun in that.  I actually liked this artwork that showed the restaurant.  I know the business has changed hands over the years, so I'm even more surprised that the no one has disrupted this little time capsule.  Yay for keeping the theme and serving up a decent morning meal! Late Night Pancakes? We headed out and I snapped an odd photo of the neon letters, just as the sun broke through.  It made me want to come at night and see the letters glowing. Sadly they are no longer open at night, but I drove by late one evening. A couple letters needed to be fixed, but the CIRCUS word was nice and bright!  Maybe I'll start up a fundraiser to fix the sign!
A Cafe in The Gardens For many years I've hoped to have a return visit to La Casina Dell'Orologio.  The little green cafe is in the heart of Villa Borghese Gardens, in Rome. 1969 I remember visiting The Gardens with my family, in 1969. I was 11 and it felt like a magical oasis, after days of touring museums and cathedrals.
We 4 kids got to take a rowboat out on the lagoon. We visited the zoo and my dad held my brother up to feed the giraffe.  I remember how good it felt to stop and eat at an outdoor cafe on that beautiful spring day. I've never been able to recall the cafe's name, but I always hoped to someday find the place I remembered... with sweet doggies and funny statues. Piazza del Popolo In 2023, Don and I flew into Rome on Good Friday. We only had one day to visit The Eternal City.  Luckily our hotel was near the wonderful Piazza del Popolo. I only had to climb some stairs to reach the beautiful gardens that sit high on a hill above Rome. I gave myself an hour to explore. No time to dine, but I hoped to find the cafe I remembered. It was a lovely spring day. Just like 1969. I wandered and found the little green cafe!  I took a photo of the name so I would remember... for whenever we returned to Rome. October 2025 It was fall the next time we were in Rome. Once again we stayed at a hotel near Piazza del Popolo and we climbed the slippery steps to reach the park.
It was cloudy and windy and the towering trees moved like eerie monsters.  I spotted one of the many statue busts, like the one in my family photo.  The property looked a bit ominous. Or was I just feeling concerned because I'd read some pretty awful reviews about the sweet green cafe. Rude staff... awful food... high prices. Don and I figured we'd avoid disappointment and just stop in for cappuccino. Welcoming As we got closer, a framed menu lured us. I could see an open door with glowing lights.
We stepped inside and the cafe felt fresh and relaxed. It had just opened. The interior seemed inviting with its chandeliers and mosaic floors. I told the man holding menus that we'd like to sit outside.  He invited us to sit anywhere, so we made sure to find a table near one of the serious looking marble busts.
It wasn't the same head that looked over my family's table in 1969, but this one looked just as serious. Giacoma Zanella The patio tables were more enclosed than years ago, so I had to step outside the bushes to get a good look at the serious man who stood above our table. Hmm? Was C. Spazzi the sculptor?  The internet told me Mr. Zanella was an Italian poet. Cardinal Guglielmo Massaia While stepping outside the patio, I paused a moment to look at another notable Italian, with a pigeon on his head.  I looked up Mr. Massaia and learned he was a missionary, who did work in Ethiopia. There are over 200 busts displayed throughout the Pincian Hill Area, of the Borghese Gardens. Evidently 3 are actually women. Menu Back at the table, it was time to make a coffee choice. There were about 16 coffee options on the menu.  I was pretty amazed I could get a cappuccino for less than 5 euros. The whining reviews that I read earlier, complained of high prices. But I'd pay plenty for a drink or meal, seated anywhere in Borghese Gardens. Coffee Corrected Don was pretty excited about the idea of corrected coffee. We learned that "corrected" meant a shot of booze. The Italians started "correcting" or masking the odd flavors of coffee substitutes in the 1930s... back when coffee was hard to get, due to high taxes.  It wasn't even noon yet, but Don figured, "When in Rome..." He went for the Coffee With Corrected National Spirits. Corrected with Amora, an Italian liqueur. Just one euro more!  Don looks as serious as our nearby poet friend. Despite his expression, he enjoyed his special coffee very much. I was happy with my cappuccino. No decaffeintated barley cappuccino for me.  It was pleasantly quiet that morning at the cafe. I looked around us and wondered where my family had been seated in 1969. Everything looked more spread out.  I told our server that I had come here as a child in the '60s. He said there had been many changes since then. New Addition He took me inside to see the newest addition.  I counted 5 tree trunks, rising up through the roof. Since 1922 The trees were a reminder that this area had once been outside. It was a little hard communicating, but our server seemed enthused that I was interested in the history.  The cafe actually began as a small wooden kiosk, in 1922. It was reconstructed in 1960 and expanded with indoor seating, in 1970. This larger area came much later, I believe. I spotted a marble bust in the corner and walked over to have a better look.  This guy named Gino had a beard, so he was not the statue near our table 56 years ago. Eyes? Wikipedia told me that Gino Capponi was an "Italian statesman and historian of a Liberal Catholic bent."  Wikipedia didn't tell me why all the marble busts seemed to be asleep. However Later, I learned that the eyes of the statues in the park, were originally painted on. Obviously after time, the painted irises and pupils wore off. A Nice Visit I feel so lucky that our relaxed visit to La Casina turned out well.
I wish I'd never read the poor reviews. I'm so glad that we felt welcomed and enjoyed our coffees beside that serious poet.
Maybe on the next visit to Rome, we'll order a bite and rent a rowboat and feed a giraffe! |
The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
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