Diverse Dining List

Texan Cafe and Pie Shop - in Hutto, TX

8/13/2019

Small Town Feasting!

Today, Don and I ate lunch in a town we'd never heard of.

I first learned about Hutto, just yesterday. I was reading a worn out book, that lists oddball things to see in Texas. It talked about Hutto and their town mascot, The Hippo.

Don and I took a detour today, to spot some of the hippo statues that are scattered about town... and we found an incredible cafe!

Growing Town

As we drove to Hutto, I read up on the small town, that was once all about ranching and cotton. In the year 2000, the quiet little community along Highway 79, had only about 1,200 residents. Today, the population is nearly 30,000.

More about the hippos, later.

Lunch at 11

It was just after 11, when Don and I pulled into town. We decided to stop for an early lunch, before going on a hippo search.

Texan Cafe had just opened. I was already drawn to the beautiful building, on the tidy little street. But the magnificent cow head above the old sign, just made me giddy.

I love a cafe attraction

Grumpy?

We were greeted by welcoming staff, the moment we walked in. My eyes were drawn to the words Grumpy Ice House, in the back of the room... but this seemed to be a happy place at 11:05!

Last Booth

We were seated at the last open booth, where we hunkered down with our menus.

Menus

I read some quick history on the front of the menu, but it was the colorful board above our heads that got me hungry. I asked our young server and she recommended the Chicken Fried Steak. I love a place with a Blue Plate Special!

Decor

I quickly snapped some pics of the decorated metal walls, since the place was filling up.

Cowpoke Cafe

The next room had old photos and western decor, covering an exposed brick wall.

The Cowpoke sign was evidently used when filming a TV series in 2013. From Dusk to Dawn was the name of the show, starring Don Johnson. Director, Robert Rodriguez gave the sign to the cafe when filming was over.

Pies

In the back of the Cowpoke Room, was a sweet smelling pie case! I didn't count the pies, but there were 30 on the menu! They looked amazing.

Food!

Don kept it simple and ordered the burger with fries, for $6.69. There were lots of fancier burger options, but the sweet classic, inside the checkered paper, was just perfect. Plenty of crispy, piping hot fries, too!

After taking this lame photo with glaring window light, I took one more bad photo. Above Don's head, I noticed a small hippo statue, next to the green, swirling window glass. Oh boy! Lunch and then a hippo hunt.

My Blue Plate Special!

My plate wasn't blue, but it was packed with colorful flavors! The crust on the chicken was crispy and seasoned. The meat was juicy. The gravy was creamy good. I wasn't very daring with my choice of mashed potatoes, but I had to have them. I got more creative with my choice of Amish Chow Chow for my second side. Sweet and sour, cool and refreshing, on a super hot, summer day!

Take Home Pie

We really needed to have pie, since the restaurant's name includes it. But I was full.

I love peanuts and the Peanut Butter Pie looked fabulous. But I needed a slice that would travel. We chose the Snickers Pie and it held up fairly well in the cooler. The chocolate was gooey and thick and the peanuts weren't a bit soggy. I'm so glad I waited until I was hungry, because I absolutely savored every bite!

Heading Out

We finished up and headed for the door, before noon! Every table was full at 11:58! I spotted cowboy hats, army fatigues, trucker hats...lunching ladies, scholarly types... a possible hipster or 2 and a big family, being greeted with hugs by the owner.

Mystery Photo

I took a photo of this framed picture, just before we left. I was thrilled to know the big cow head was on the building, way back in Old-timey-car Days.

But... I searched for more internet info and learned the Texan Cafe opened in 1966 and moved to its current location in 2005. What? That makes no sense. The building looks the same as the one in my photos.

I was still confused when I read that the original restaurant, had a giant whole cow in front. The cow's name was Ferdinand. When the business moved, they only took Ferdinand's head. What's with this vintage photo? Maybe those parking strips are telling me it's not an old photo. Hmm? I should have asked when I was there. I do love a mystery.

Off to See Hippos

Don and I were in great spirits after our fine lunch. It was time to see some Hutto Hippos.

I was pretty amused by the story behind Hutto's love of hippos. It all goes back to 1915, when a circus train stopped in the area and a hippo got loose. A few years later, the high school adopted hippo as their school mascot. Over the years, hippo statues have multiplied in town.

I had hoped to go on a major hunt to photograph as many plump hippo figures, as I could find... but the temps were headed towards 100. Don wasn't interested in getting out of the car and posing with me. So I captured 2 of my favorites.

Now I have an excuse to go back to Hutto. More hippos and more pie!

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Doc Holliday Tavern, in Glenwood Springs

7/5/2019

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Colorado Road Trip

I spotted this fabulous neon sign, 2 years ago. Don and I were leaving Glenwood Springs, after our stay at the historic Hotel Colorado, when I spotted the 20-foot sign.

"Look at that!" I shouted to my driver. Poor Don misses so much when we're on the road. "I can't believe that was just a block away from our hotel!"

I added the tavern to my "next time" list and we continued on.

Lunch at the Saloon

This June, we were traveling through Glenwood Springs again. It was lunchtime and we were in luck. The saloon opened at 10 am.

The entrance to the saloon looked a little eerie with Doc's piercing eyes. But we headed inside anyway.

1880's

At noon on a Monday, the saloon was pretty tame. There were no whiskey drinking gamblers or beer guzzling bikers. The old place was about as calm as it probably was in the 1880's, when it was a mercantile store.

Doc's Bar?

Don and I took a seat at Doc's bar... which of course was not Doc's bar. Doc died down the road, in 1887. He may have entered this space when it was a store, but he never got to see this beautiful bar, which was built in the east, in the 1870's.

Beer at the Bar

Don and I split a beer... since we were on the road. I offered up a toast to the famous gambler/gunfighter/dentist.

It was a little sad to picture Doc in 1887, dying from tuberculosis. I'm sure he would have preferred to have gone out in a dramatic gunfight, rather that a hospital bed, in Glenwood Springs.

Admiring the Bar

I allowed myself to look like a tourist, when I pulled out my cell phone to snap a few more photos. I loved the old cash register, tucked between the liquor bottles and beer taps. The arching backbar and mirrors glowed, with more neon.

Some history in the menu, said the antique bar traveled from the east to a bar in Leadville, Colorado. It didn't come to this location until the 1920's. Maybe Doc did have a drink or two at this bar. He lived in Leadville, before his final days in Glenwood!

Quick Lunch

Don and I chose this place for the iconic sign. Even though the bar caters to tourists, we did not assume we'd get good food. I always keep my expectations low.

But our grilled ham and cheese with waffle fries was actually pretty tasty... served on a china plate, for about $5. Our somewhat frazzled bartender/food server was also very sweet. She seemed to be the only one on duty to serve the bar and tables.

Exploring

Before hitting the road, I gave myself a quick tour. The stone fireplace was a good reminder of the tavern's age.

Photos

I was glad to have daytime lighting, to help me explore with my camera.

I wouldn't have felt quite so comfortable snapping photos after 10 pm, the time when the tavern claims to no longer be Family Friendly. But I'm sure the people watching would be better.

Big Nose Kate

My trip to the restroom was interesting. The large photo near the door, showed a bloody face. (Glad I'd already eaten) The Ladies Room door was titled "Kate" with an image of her, on the door. The woman known as Big Nose Kate, evidently tended to Doc, in his ailing last days. The restroom itself was curious. The stall had swinging saloon doors.

We finished up, just as the lunch crowd was thinning out. I glanced at a few more displays behind the round booth, as we headed out.

Eerie History

I wish I could have learned a little more about the building itself. The tavern's front, was such a funny mix of wood and stone, shingles and brick. It was hard to tell what the original building looked like.

I tried to search for some info about the neon sign's history. All I learned was that the sign appeared in the 1950's. I did however learn some creepy info about a bartender being murdered at Doc Holliday's about 20 years ago. That's not history they're going to print in the menu.

I'm going to try to forget that grisly info and focus on that fine, neon pistol. I love a good sign and this one lured us in and gave us a nice road trip lunch break. I'll drink to that!

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Niky's for Mini Donuts!

6/4/2019

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Crested Butte, Colorado

While roaming around Crested Butte, my eyes were drawn to this bright little sign.

My nose was also pretty excited about the smells that came through the screen door, below the sign.

Historic Mountain Town

Don and I had been wandering down Elk Avenue, when we discovered the little red building that held the donut and ice cream shop. Niky's was as colorful as all the beautiful buildings we'd been admiring. The old western storefronts were great reminders of Crested Butte's coal and silver mining days.

Back to the Fifties

When we stepped inside Niky's, it felt like we'd gone back to a totally different era. Instead of the 1860's, it looked and felt like the 1950's.

Nostalgia

There were cheery displays of vintage goodies everywhere. A lunch box and jack-in-the-box, record albums and a Howdy Doody marionette...

A carousel of Coke bottles, made an interesting light fixture... but they should have used smaller, vintage bottles.

Mini Mini Mini!

It was the word "mini" that sealed the deal for me.

I love the idea of a miniature splurge! How could a mini-feast of any kind be harmful? Give me a tiny popsicle or a teeny milkshake. If it's miniature, it must taste better too!

Plus I just happen to be a big fan of miniatures... period.

So Many Options

The young woman behind the counter was very enthused about the offerings. She said the mini cake donuts were made continuously throughout the day. "We personalize each donut for you." She added.

There were 24 different toppings to choose from, with names like "Cotton Candy Crunch" and "Sopapilla" and "Nerd".

Made To Order

We could have bought a 36-pack of minis for 46 dollars. But Don and I only had a mini appetite that morning. We bought the smallest order, a 2-pack. Our donut decorator place our tiny cake donuts in a paper dish and went to work. Those little mini treats didn't look so tiny when she handed them to us.

Death by Chocolate and Cinnamon Roll

We took our sweet feast outside, to a bench in the sunshine. The chocolate donut was totally hidden under moist, mini choco-chips and frosting. The cream cheese frosting on the cinnamon sprinkled treat, was almost too sweet to eat... but I managed.

Too Fun!

I learned a little something as I worked away at these tiny (yet mighty) treats. The heavily decorated, mini donuts were as sinful as any regular donuts. I was in sugar shock, even with Don's help.

Love the idea! Love the setting! Love the mini-food-adventure!

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Owl Bar & Cafe

6/2/2019

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Lunch Stop in San Antonio, New Mexico

Don and I don't usually stop at bars during the day, especially when we're on the road.

Curious Story

But Don had read a little something about this place that had us both scratching our heads. The curious trivia had to do with what lead to their well-known Green Chile & Cheese Owl Burger. We knew we had to make a stop on our way to Albuquerque!

Odd Building

Our road trip route took us right to the small town, in the center of New Mexico. We pulled off the highway and found the little bar we'd heard about.

There were quite a few vehicles parked outside the brown and tan, stucco building. But even in bright light, the place looked a bit intimidating. There were no windows to peek through, before entering.

The flapping flag and serious looking owl, made me worry that we might be walking into a local men's club. The door just past the sign, looked like the kind you'd enter from the alley. But the story behind the Owl Cheeseburger just drew us in.

Entrance

Just though the door we found a small waiting area that made up for the mysteriously blank exterior. Photographs and articles covered the plywood walls. A stuffed owl looked like he was ready to land on my head. A rack of bubble gum machines made me feel less intimidated.

Where to Sit?

The bar was a bit more crowded, (than photo) when we first entered. About 3 older women rushed back and forth behind the bar, serving more food than drink.

Dollar Booths

The booths looked pretty iconic and it was tempting to choose one for a cozy lunch. There were dollar bills and personal notes, tacked to the paneling inside each booth. I learned later that the business gathers them up periodically and donates to charity.

Bar With a History

The 25 foot mahogany bar was purchased shortly after the Owl Bar opened in 1945. Frank and Dee Chavez started the business in Dee's father's grocery store. They bought the 1880's Brunswick-Balk Bar from a famous San Antonio family.

It turns out that tiny town is the birthplace of Conrad Hilton... as in Hilton Hotels. The lovely bar that I failed to photograph well, was first in a rooming House/saloon, owned by C. Hilton's father. Frank and Dee bought the undamaged front bar, after a fire destroyed much of the rooming house. It took 2 days to carefully moved the bar 2 miles, to their roadhouse bar.

Owls Behind the Bar

Don and I sat on our stools staring at the crazy collection of owls behind the bar. I asked "Leo" our server if she had any favorite owls in the place. "Oh there are so many of them. I don't really have a favorite, but there are some real cute ones." I had many more questions, but the women were far too busy. I held my breath while one woman rushed behind me, carrying 6 plates of burgers.

The Owl Burger

Leo served us up a couple of famous burgers while we pondered their history. The cheeseburgers made with roasted Hatch green chiles go back to around 1945. In my distorted photos, one burger looks huge and the other tiny. Actually they were a perfect medium size with gigantic flavor.

"Prospectors" at the Bar

Our cheeseburgers were as spicy and fresh tasting as we'd read about. But the real fun was imagining the people who first ate these famous burgers.

In 1945 some special customers talked Frank Chavez into buying a grill and serving food. The so called "prospectors" were a group of temporary "regulars" who were working in the area. The men who yearned for food, weren't ranchers or cowboys, they were physicists, who were involved in activating the famous Trinity Site explosion. It was odd and eerie to imagine these men sitting at the bar, where we ate our burgers. How out of place they must have seemed at first. I wonder if the bar drinks ever caused a secret or two to slip.

Wandering

My trip to the restroom was entertaining. I found a back dining room that had more booths and more owl decor. The little hallway to the restrooms, had a rather dramatic arched entrance... and more framed owl art. The Ladies Room extra quite bright, with colorful, owl murals. I was a bit thrown by the lack of privacy between toilets. I found that downright amusing!

Owls

I returned to my stool and studied a little more owl art before we headed off. I wish I could have talked to the older man beside me. Maybe he knew people who had stories about the nuclear bomb, that was detonated just 28 miles away in 1945.

"Here It Is"

As we headed to the car, I looked at the building and tried to imagine how this rambling building could have been a grocery store plus bar. If only Rowena Baca had been there. She inherited The Owl from her parents, Frank and Dee. She was a child back when the Owl Burger was born, so I imagine she has some stories.

It was a yummy and interesting road trip stop, for sure! We had lots to think about, as we got back on the road.

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Little Diner near El Paso, TX

5/21/2019

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Canutillo, Texas

Don couldn't remember where he'd read about this little diner, but he had it on his list of curious places to eat near El Paso.

The little diner WAS NOT right off i-10. We had to work for this! We wound through dusty neighborhoods and vacant lots. I think GPS was teasing us.

Finally we found the little yellow sign above a Laundromat sign. Oh boy!

Clay Roof & Arches

The simple little building had more cars in front when we pulled up. We doubted any of them belonged to tourists.

Entrance

The open sign greeted us, around on the side. We headed into an enclosed patio space, with picnic tables and lots of bubble gum machines.

Main Room

The diner opened in 1976 with only 3 tables. The main room had a few more than that, today.

This photo was taken when we checked out, but earlier the tables were occupied with locals, all talking with each other. A smiling woman greeted us from behind the counter and asked if we were dining in or taking out. Then she welcomed us to sit anywhere.

Once a Porch?

We headed for the long front room, lined with windows. I'm guessing at one time this space was for open air, patio dining. We took a seat next to one of the arched windows. Susie our cheery waitress arrived right away. She didn't make us feel at all out of place, for being first-timers and asking lots of questions.

Gorditas!

Susie said the Gorditas were the most popular item on the menu. She also suggested Chile con Carne Bowl. Don ordered the verde and it had quite a spicy zing!

Gorditas

My meal looked very festive on the purple-blue plate. The gorditas were gigantic pockets made with masa, corn dough. The fried treats were curiously crunchy and chewy. I had 3 different ones. 1 Chile Verde and 1 Barbacoa and 1 Avocado, which was just oozing with creamy, fresh avocado! I couldn't finish, even with Don's help.

Susie and Don

Don had quite a good, chatty time as he checked out with Susie. She was excited that we'd come all the way from Houston. Although she did remind us that even though they might seem like a small place, they were sort of famous.

Famous Folk

She pointed us to the wall display, showing their VIP guests. Of course the picture of Prez Bush, was from when he was governor... so not exactly recent. Edward James Olams (from Miami Vice) had visited just a while ago and she seemed pretty excited about that.

Before taking off, Susie grabbed us a fresh tortilla and placed the piping hot disc in foil. We could hear the tortillas being made in the other room. "They're just too good when they're hot!" She encouraged us to eat it in the car, while it was still warm.

Fun stop on our road trip!

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Catfish Parlour in Austin, TX

5/19/2019

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Finally!

Today, Don and I finally turned off of TX 71 and pulled in the lot, of Catfish Parlor!
We've driven by this awesome sign for nearly 20 years, on our drives from Houston to Austin. I've always been curious about this roadside eatin' place.

Neither of us are huge catfish fans, but we heard the place was family owned, since the 1970's. We also heard the catfish was Texas raised and never frozen.

Mostly though, I was lured by the sign!

Early on Sunday

There was only one car when we pulled in at 11:10 am. The church crowd was still at church, but we headed in.

Love a Parlour

I kind of love any place that calls itself a parlour. It brings me back to my childhood visits to Silver Dollar City in Branson, where everything was a saloon or parlour.

Orange and Green Booths

Only one table was taken, so we had quite a choice for seating. There were some slick cushioned booths in retro green, down the center. The Howard Johnson's orange booths were along the sides.

Oyster Shucking Bar

We also could have sat at the rounded bar, where a friendly fellow soon arrived, in a black apron and plastic gloves. He said the place would be busy with a church crowd by 1.

Hushpuppies

We chose an orange booth and our young server arrived promptly, with a bowl of complimentary hushpuppies. The jalapeno sauce was yummy. We asked Fernanda about the age of the restaurant. She thought it had been here 30 years... which meant the Parlour is a lot older than her.

Catfish Plate

Don got the "light" catfish plate with 3 sides. The creamy cole slaw, mashed potatoes and green beans (with bacon) were all good. The catfish was surprisingly good. We did not sample any sturgeon... but we liked the sign behind Don.

Salmon Salad with Strawberry Vinaigrette

I went healthy, because we were on day one of a 3+ week road trip. The salmon was fresh off the grill and the greens were a nice crispy mix. Don made sure to capture those fine checkered floors, along with my food.

This was a quick dining adventure, but a nice one. The staff was friendly and the food and decor was down-home-cozy-good.

Yay! I finally checked this place off my list, after all these years!

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Square One Brewery & Distillery

5/15/2019

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Lafayette Square Neighborhood in St. Louis, MO

A week ago, I had lunch with my good buddy in this fabulous old building, on the corner of 18th and Park. I loved the building, I loved the location and I loved the company.

I have good memories the Lafayette Square Neighborhood, that go back to the 1970's. The history of this building goes back just a bit further. In 1883 the structure was built to house a tavern.

My First Intro to Lafayette Square

Don and I were last in St. Louis, 3 years ago. We wandered through beautiful Lafayette Park, the oldest public park in St. Louis. We visited my mom's dear friend, Werner.

I remember moving to St. Louis in the 1970's and Werner was just beginning to refurbish one of the elegant Victorian homes, that surrounded the park. The area was in shambles and not very safe, day or night. But the once elegant houses slowly came back and Werner's home was one of them.

Lunch with Werner

It was a sunny, April Sunday, when we visited in 2016. Werner took us to Square One for lunch. I remember studying the old brick and painted trim, trying to remember when it was once Park Place Restaurant. I had eaten there 40+ years ago.

We took a table outside, in the shady courtyard. The atmosphere felt relaxed and casual. I was the lucky one, facing the waterfall wall, surrounded by an ornate doorway. I wish I knew the story about that grand piece, decorating the wall.

Beer at the Bar

Werner and Don were both excited about choosing a beer. I remember that the brew master had many options that day. But I can't recall what they chose.

Back Bar

I was too busy admiring the elegant, walnut back bar. Or would that even be a back bar? The carved arch, framed a leaded glass window, looking out to the courtyard.

Flat Bread...

I have a photo of what I ate in 2016. It was some kind of vegetarian flat bread thing and I do remember it was mouthwatering-good.

But mostly I remember sitting there in that lovely setting, hearing Werner tell stories about my mom. He helped me imagine my mom in her college days. Werner was also able to tell me a little bit about my grandfather, who died long before I was born. I could have sat there into the night, hearing Werner talk. At 90+ years, his memory was sharp and his stories were vivid. Werner died 2 years later and I feel extra grateful for that day.

Same Place in 2019

Last week, I was excited to take Milissa to Square One. She was visiting St. Louis for the first time. It was damp and cold, so the courtyard was closed. We peeked in the back room, where there were plenty of open tables. But we took a table beside a window, near the old arched bar.

Soup and Tacos

Once again, I felt content in this cozy, historic building. I feasted on my Korean tacos and Beer Cheese Soup. That was my nod to Anheuser-Busch, since they operated a tavern in this building in the early 1900's.

Just like 3 years ago, the company and conversation became my main focus. Milissa and I skipped the hand crafted spirits and sipped on water. But, we talked like 2 giddy old friends, sharing a bottle of wine. Every now and then I paused to comment on my food, because the sweet barbecue chicken and the thick, tangy soup was so yummy, it distracted me.

Browsing

After we finished lunch, the place was pretty cleared out. Milissa and I looked around at the all the equipment, that helps create the Hopskey Hop Flavored Whiskey and the Cucumber and Jalapeno Vodkas...

Shopping

I studied some wall art and Milissa thought about buying some Absinthe. She decided $50. was too much and we were soon on our way.

Nice Time & Nice Reminder

I love a pleasant dining adventure that lets me enjoy the moment and the past all at once. Milissa and I had a peaceful, tasty lunch and I was pleasantly reminded of another time as well.

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Empresario in Goliad, TX

5/1/2019

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Neyland Building from 1903

In 2017, Don and I stopped to eat lunch in the town of Goliad. We found this wonderful old building, on Courthouse Square. It had been built the year after a tornado killed 114 people in the small town.

Goliad Massacre

The town of about 1,000 is not really known for the deadly tornado of 1902. It's better known for the Goliad Massacre, which occurred in 1836, less than a mile from the Courthouse Square.

When Don and I stopped for lunch, we had just come from an overnight stay at nearby, Presidio La Bahia. The fort and chapel are part of a State Park, now. They have one guest room available, to those who aren't creeped out by the knowledge of the gruesome history. More than twice the number were killed in Goliad, than at the more famous battle of the Alamo.

An Appetite for History

It was hard to compete with the amazing fort experience, but the old Neyland building looked like a perfect place to chow down on lunch and more history. The long and narrow building had initially been a hardware store.

Local Brick

The tan colored brick had been made, just a few blocks away near the San Antonio River. We should have gone on a hunt after lunch. Evidently, remains of the old kilns still exist.

Bloody Arm

Don and I took one peek inside and felt right at home. On the rear wall, past the bar, was the same eerie flag we'd slept near the night before. The Goliad flag, with it's severed arm had flown above the fort during the Texas Revolution. It's creepy, but you do get used to it.

High Ceilings and Cozy Tables

The high, tin ceilings, checkered cloths and enlarged historic photos made the restaurant very cozy.

Photographs

After we ordered I took a peek at the walls, where no one was seated. I loved getting to see the old photos of the building when it first opened. For the past 30+ years, the building has served as home to Empresario Restaurant.

The Kolbs

John and Joy Kolb bought the business in 2013. It's a good sign when a restaurant doesn't need to change its name. It's also a good sign when owners confidently welcome you, with a photo and plaque.

It's even more welcoming, when you meet the owner himself. Mr. Kolb was eating lunch in the lounge area towards the back. When I wandered back that way, he introduced himself and wanted to know where we were from.

Don's Turn

Mr. Kolb was so friendly, I had to introduce him to Don. Poor guy hardly had time to eat, with all our gabbing. But he was a good sport and even put on his nifty hat for the photo.

Meatloaf!

Our server Sherry Lynn, was cheery and a little nervous. It was her first day, but she did a great job. Don's meatloaf and glazed carrots were very yummy! My Corn chowder and garden salad was also good, but we didn't bother with a photo... since I didn't match the decor as well as Don!

Revisit in 2018

This past December, Don and I were back in Goliad. There were no cars parked in front, so I got a wonderful photo of Empresario and its neighbor. Both buildings were designed by Danish architect, Jules Leffland. I read that it had been a general store, but I see the words coffins and caskets... I guess the local store needed to be prepared, for another Goliad tragedy.

A Few Changes

I noticed a few changes since our visit nearly 2 years before. There were Christmas lights and the tables no longer had the checkered cloths.

Good Food

The food was even better than I remembered. Don's massive burger and fries were delish...

But, Don's burger was nothing compared to my chicken fried steak, mashed taters and green beans! Was my gravy poured into the shape of Texas? The knife was big enough to sever my arm, if I wanted to match the flag!

Mission Espiritu Santo

Our second dining visit with Empresario was also connected to a Goliad State Park adventure. This time, we finished our yummy meal and headed a half mile to the park, but we didn't stay at the fort. This time we camped near another mission and heard the bells ring in the evening. After dark, we walked up to see the church, illuminated with Christmas lights. Beautiful!

Two Meal + Overnight Adventures, Goliad!

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Creole House in Paulina, Louisiana

4/30/2019

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Lunch Near the Great River Road

It's been 4 years since we stopped for lunch at the Creole House. But the memories linger and it's time for a quick recall.

Road Side Dining

A few Octobers ago, Don and I were headed with "the kids" to tour the Whitney Plantation. Before crossing the Mississippi River, we drove through the small town of Paulina. Pop. 1,178. The Creole House, with porch and swing, looked like our best bet for lunch.

Dark Wood and Dark Doors

There was a tavern feel to the cozy building. There were Saints flags and banners and an area where live music happened, in the later hours. I was especially curious about the thick, rounded doors, on one wall.

Surrounded in Wood

Victoria brought our menus and I struggled to understand her Cajun accent. I wanted to ask more questions about the building, which looked old, with pine walls and ceiling. But I was having a hard enough time, just communicating about food.

Peeking Around

While our orders cooked, I explored. I loved the red windows that peeked into the kitchen. I should have counted the fleur de lis decor, since I spotted the first, on the roof.

Fire Place and Christmas Tree

The far end of the dining room looked very festive with a cozy fireplace and a Christmas tree... even though it was October. It looked like the inside of an old house and I wanted to know more.

The Rounded Doors

We chatted while awaiting our food and Victoria refilled waters. I asked about the wonderful doors, that looked like they should have been in a castle somewhere. She just said they separated the dining room and the bar.

Creole Food!

I wimped out and ordered a cheeseburger and salad, which was fine. But Scott and Chali played it right and ordered the big platter of fried shrimp, fish and oysters with onion rings, biscuit and a bowl of seafood gumbo. That's the way to do it!

At the Counter

While checking out at the counter, I managed to have a quick chat with Victoria. I didn't learn anything more about the curious building or the restaurant's history, but I learned about the wooden, pyramid decoration near the bubble gum machines. Victoria lit up, when I inquired!

Bonfires on the Levee Tradition

photo: bullwinklestravels.blogspot.com

I believe this is pretty much what Victoria said... Every Christmas Eve, wooden structures line the levee. Locals gather to celebrate with friends, family and food, as the structures are lit. She said she'd grown up with the tradition and had fond memories. "The kids love it!" She smiled and added shyly, that she'd been a part of the pageant last year. I'm guessing that would be the Miss Festival of the Bonfires Pageant... but I'm not sure.

So I learned a little something fun. We'll have to return some evening and enjoy some live music in the cozy Creole House. Better yet, we'll come on Christmas Eve and sneak a peek at the glowing levee!

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Smitty's Market in Lockhart, Texas

4/28/2019

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Memories of Smitty's

It's been over a decade since my mom, sister and I stumbled across Smitty's Market.

We were on a road trip adventure, to celebrate Mom's 80th. We stopped in Lockhart, but not for its famous BBQ.

We made the detour, because of Mom's love for the hilariously, quirky movie, "Waiting for Guffman", which was filmed in Lockhart.

We spent time snapping photos of the lovely courthouse. (Seen often in the movie) Then we noticed Smitty's across the street, with its tempting sign in the window.

Birthday Girl

Mom was in heaven that day as we headed over from the square, to check out the old building and doors. At 80, she was still spunky and curious, but she was also struggling with Alzeimer's. Jennifer and I were so grateful we could give her the Texas road trip, that she craved.

Mom had always loved road adventures, with all their surprises. She loved wandering, exploring and observing. As a kid I was often impatient when Mom got off on a questioning tangent with a guidebook or a chatty local. As an adult, I grew to love it!

Building History

We knew nothing about Smitty's, when we approached it that November day, in 2008. We did end up learning a little about the 2 buildings, once we stepped inside. The shorter building had been Kreuz Market, since 1924. Edgar "Smitty" Schmidt bought the market in '48. Later he expanded, when he bought the 1906 dry goods store next door.

Dark & Smokey

I still remember the thrill of opening those doors and seeing this mysterious hall, with its soot covered walls. (It was much darker, without my camera flash) Big fans hung from the ceiling, moving the warm, smokey air. We inhaled the wonderful flavors... and coughed... and laughed.

The Market

We peeked left, through the doorway to the old market. It wasn't open, but someone welcomed us in. I honestly don't remember who it was, but they probably couldn't say no to Mom, who was eagerly pointing out all that she saw.

We grinned at the old scales and coolers... the saws and stools.

Jennifer snapped lots of photos, while Mom marveled at the wavy surface of the butcher block table.

Down the Hall

After roaming around the market, we traveled down the dark hall. On a busier day, there might have been people sitting on the benches, eating barbecue on the skinny tables, attached to the wall.

From the Stairs

I couldn't resist climbing a few steps. From halfway up, I could see a number of pit areas in the back section of the old market. The arrow pointed us to the area where BBQ is now sold.

The Old Pits

As we moved towards a small line of customers, the smells grew more delicious, but my eyes began to sting. I looked back once more at the original room, where customers once ate their BBQ, right beside the fire pits.

Today

Today, customers order their meat in the next room. I was glad Mom was steady on her feet... not walking with a wooden cane, when we passed the open fire, to get to the counter. I would love to know how many visitors have had little mishaps with the open flames.

Over the Years

On that day with Mom, we ordered a sampler of meats and took it with us for an evening feast.

In the years following, Don and I have traveled 2.5 hours from Houston, with family and friends to share the fun of a Smitty's Experience. Each time, I am in awe of the skilled people, on the other side of the counter. Many like Pablo, we've seen year after year.

Fire Box... Cooking Chamber...?

Since there are usually lines at Smitty's, there is no time for questions. I think I finally have it figured out that the fire box thing on the ground, provides (through some kind of flue) the smoke and heat for the brick cooking chamber. It's amazing to watch the guys in their aprons, lifting the lid and messing with the meats. The slicing and chopping is clearly an art!

It's a Wrap

After ordering and paying with cash, the meat is wrapped in layers of butcher paper. For people dining in, the bundle is handed over like an open pocket.

Dining Room

After getting the meat, it's on to the dining room. There has always been an interesting crowd at the community tables.

Drinks and Extras

Soda, tea and beer is available at a nearby counter. There are a few options for sides, but that's not what Smitty's is known for.

Finding a Seat

You never know who you'll sit by. I always hope for a cowboy hat or two. Or at least a handsome young man who eats all but the bone! Scott loves BBQ!

Once seated, the butcher paper becomes a plate. There are plastic spoons for the sides, but I swear I remember seeing knives chained to the table in the past. Maybe I just dreamed that.

Recent Visit

On our most recent visit, I chatted with Jim. He is married to Nina Schmidt Sells, who took over the business from her father in 1999. Nina grew in the biz. Before her dad, Smitty bought Kruez Market, he worked there as a teen. In 1999, Nina's brother moved the used the Kruez name and opened in a new location. Nina kept the business and gave it her father's name.

With Pat and Susan

Don and I had the fun, of introducing our friends Pat and Susan to Smitty's recently. Don brought his own knife this time. He learned by watching locals on past trips... not that one was really needed! We had some Lockhart Beer and chowed down on ribs and brisket and sausage.

While we ate, I spotted Jim taking a break. It was late enough that Nina was relaxing a bit herself. I introduced myself and raved about our meal. I felt like a BBQ Groupie, meeting Smitty's actual daughter!

Off We Go

We finished and walked off a couple bites of brisket, with a stroll around the square. Then on the way to the parking lot, I got one last glimpse of the intriguing world of Smitty's BBQ. I heard buzzing first, then notice a man, standing in a sea of oak logs. He was working away, splitting the wood that fuels the pits. I felt like I was getting a little peek, backstage.

Mom would have loved that final treat!

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