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Two Thanksgivings The French don't celebrate Thanksgiving. But Don and I have celebrated 2, at this landmark restaurant in Paris! 1999 It's been nearly a quarter century since we had Thanksgiving dinner with our kids, at Fouquet's This is our only photo. Don and the kids were studying the names of famous guests on the brass sidewalk plaques. I wish I had photos from our dinner, but I was too intimidated to use a camera, in those pre-cellphone days. Eloise in Paris As a kid, my dream was to go to France. I wished on birthday candles and wishing well coins. I wanted to be just like wild Eloise, in one of my favorite books. She was not the least bit intimidated when she and Nanny sat at one of Fouquet's patio tables. Cafe Seats in 2023 This past Thanksgiving, we had dining room reservations at 7:30. I wandered over from our hotel early and peeked at the cafe tables that faced Avenue George V. The red chairs beneath the famous red awning were empty, at 5 pm on November 23. I spotted no children with messy hair, or bare feet. No Nannies drinking martinis. Facing Champs-Elysees However on the other side of the pie-slice-building, the awnings covered a very busy patio area. The chilly evening air didn't seem to bother the outside guests. They seemed to happily enjoy their food and converstaion, sitting right beside the bustling Champs-Elysees. Why 5? Our reservations were for 7:30, so why was I there looking around at 5? I was on a mission to check on the dress code. I wasn't as carefree as 6 year old Eloise! I hate breaking rules. After peeking in windows and seeing men without jackets, I knew Don was safe. (We had packed light) I paused to take in the decorated entrance. Red carpet and nutcrackers! We didn't see that, 24 years ago! Glowing! Just after I crossed the street to head back to the hotel, the lights on Champs-Elysees came on. I looked back at the glowing building and felt giddy about the evening ahead. I ended up taking a longer route back, so I could peek at the Arc de Triumph. I stopped snapping photos and dialed my dad back in Missouri. "Happy Thanksgiving Dad! Did you watch the parade? Guess what I'm looking at right now?" I described everything I saw, then dashed back to the hotel. Fouqet's Since 1899 When we arrived for dinner, I took a turn posing with the fabulous 124-year-old restaurant. I have no idea about the age of the actual building. In 1899, Louis Fouquet purchased the Criterion Tavern (in this building) and opened his classy brasserie. It's odd that the restaurant is named for the French man, but pronounced with a hard "T". It does not rhyme with bouquet! The French Oscars Once again, we studied the names on the plaques. Most names were French actors I didn't recognize, but I did know of few of the celebs. Since its opening, Fouquet's has been a gathering place for those involved in the arts. Since 1979 the restaurant has hosted the annual Cesar Awards Banquet. (French Academy Awards) Welcoming! Before we stepped inside I felt a wave of worry that we were underdressed or we would be be treated less warmly because we were Americans who spoke little French. But the first thing I noticed was the lively holiday decor in the middle of the room. You can't have nutcrackers and candy canes and be snooty! And then the matire'd quickly put me at ease. She asked for our reservation name, then lit up as if we were a pair of celebrities ourselves. Did I imagine that? The she led us to a lovely table, on the opposite side of the tree. Interior As we moved to our table, I was delighted that the interior looked just as I remembered. The mahogany walls were still covered in portraits of famous actors. It was tempting to get a closer look at those walls and examine the brass plates near a few tables... with names of famous guests who frequently sit at there. Table For Two We were seated in black velvet chairs facing the Christmas tree. Slightly isolated from others, but with a great angle for people watching! Along with my menu, I was given a velvet stool, to place my purse. Achaf, Our Server We couldn't have had a more delightful server. Achaf introduced himself, then smiled, "So it has been 24 years since you have dined with us! Welcome back!" I totally forgot that I'd written something in the "note" area, when making online reservations. We explained that we'd come on our Thanksgiving Holiday with our kids in 1999. Achaf returned quickly with 2 champagne flutes and tiny cheese tarts. Photos of Photos We seemed to be the only American voices in the dining room, but I no longer worried about being touristy. I had noticed a couple French guests taking some cellphone snaps. Don took a photo of me, that included the framed black and white celebrities on the wall. Achaf must have noticed, because he was suddenly at our table, offering to take our photo. 24 years ago, I didn't have the nerve to pull out a camera, much less ask for our photo to be taken. 99 Euro Feast Don and I decided to make it easy and memorable, by ordering the Prix Fixe, 3-course option. After our champagne, we both enjoyed Shrimp and Avocado Carpaccio. Huge (yet elegant!) shrimp, served with heavenly sauce. My main course was Poultry Supreme, with Morel Sauce. It came with a swirl of mashed potatoes, that reminded me of a French version of Thanksgiving. I raved to Achaf, that it was 100 times better than turkey and dressing. For dessert, Don ordered Apple Tart Tartin with Raw Double Cream! My Millefeuille Fouquet's looked like stacked graham crackers, but tasted light and fluffy. It was decorated with a signature chocolate! There was nothing Thanksgiving-ish about Don's Grilled Scallops with Jerusalem Artichoke. He praised the flavors and cheered that he didn't feel miserable, like we often do after T-Day feasts. We took our time with our desserts and then Achaf brought one more little plate, filled with chocolates and tiny loaves of muffin bread. While we nibbled the manager came over and thanked us for coming. "We hope you enjoyed your meal as much as you did 24 years ago!" I was a bit dumbfounded by this gracious attention. Snooping Around I made sure to take a trip to the Ladies Room, so that I could explore just a bit. I walked through a very cozy and elegant bar. Before heading down some stairs to the restrooms, I thought about heading up the decorated stairs. But, I decided the stairs were possibly for hotel guests. Since the hotel opened in 2006, guests have been able to dine and sleep at Fouquet's. I'd say, "Next time!" except we don't have the bucks. One night in a Signature Suite, costs over 10,000 American dollars! Off We Go After we finished up, we chatted a little more with Achaf. I wanted to know if there had been any famous diners recently. He answered, "The First Lady was here not too long ago." I guess he was trying to think of a famous American. Our friendly server asked if we would like one more photo, in front of the tree. We really didn't need another, but how could we say no? As he snapped about 10 pics, another waiter teased Achaf about his photography skills. There was lots of playful banter and we left feeling happy and satisfied. Who says the French are snooty? One More Pic It was nearly 10:30 when we stepped out. There were still plenty of diners eating outside in the chilly night air. I had Don pose for one more photo, before we headed back to the hotel. Strolling Along Champs Elysees On a chilly weeknight, the sidewalks along the famous boulevard were finally quiet. Quiet, until I heard a child squealing! As we strolled along, I became aware that the child's voice was coming from my purse. I grabbed my phone and looked at the faces of my daughter and 2-year-old granddaughter! I had accidentally FaceTimed, (who knows how!) in the middle of their meal.
What a perfect ending to our Thanksgiving adventure. I apologized and we all laughed. I suddenly wished so badly that I could snap my fingers and have our kids (and their families) with us at that moment. How fun to dine with them again at Fouquet's! Maybe someday!
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The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
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