Podhalanka Polska in Chicago

Quick Bite in Chicago's Polish Downtown
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At the end of a brief Chicago visit, Don and I had a quick feast with our daughter, in the neighborhood where Don's father grew up.

We needed to drop Heidi at the airport before noon, but I insisted we squeeze in a Polish Dining Adventure on Sunday morning!

On Polish Broadway

Podhalanka sits on busy Division Street... called Polish Broadway by some. It faces the Polish Triangle (plaza) which is in the center of Chicago's old Polish settlement. Don's grandfather moved here at age 14 in 1900, after traveling alone from Poland to Ellis Island.

I'm a little jealous of Don and Heidi, with their connections to Poland. I made up for my lack of Polish blood, by embracing theirs. I practically demanded a visit to this iconic place while it still exists! The majority of Polish families and businesses have moved to the suburbs.  

Nervous

Don and Heidi agreed to go along with a speedy visit and maybe sample some Polish pierogi or potato pancakes. But all 3 of us were a little anxious. But, because of time issues. 

Before arriving, I'd read some angry reviews from diners who complained about the owner pressuring them to order things they didn't want. Were we up for this? I promised I'd do the talking and stay firm. At 10:15, I opened the front door and we stepped in. I didn't see an angry owner. I didn't see any customers at tables, or at the counter. Just 2 giant bags of potatoes. 

"Greeting"

​We stood for moment and then a man appeared. (We learned later that his name was Greg.) Greg was wearing a black apron, black Crocs and a serious expression. "Good Morning." he greeted in a flat tone, with a Polish accent.

He offered no other words, so I asked if we should just sit anywhere. "Second table." he answered without a gesture. Second from where? I wondered. He read my mind and pointed to a table near a white couch.

​Beef Tripe Stew or Pickle Soup?

Greg brought over some paper menus and placed them on our plastic tablecloth. Before we had a chance to consider some bargains, like Tripe Stew for $5.80 or Pickle Soup for $5.75, Greg spoke. First he reminded us that they only accepted cash. 

Then he began, "I'll tell you what we're going to do. I've got some soup and some sausage..." Then he listed off all the things he was going to have us sample. I could hardly get a word in. 

My turn

I jumped in when I got the chance and explained with great enthusiasm, that we were on the way to the airport and had limited time, but we'd heard such great things about the food! "We just can't leave town without trying a little something... maybe some potato pancakes..."

He cut me off and told me they were out of potato pancakes. I didn't dare point out the potatoes on the stools. Not that we had time for those potatoes to be scrubbed, peeled, grated and cooked.

Pierogi

I firmly told Greg we would get just a couple orders of Pierogi. He looked like he was thinking, then asked what time our plane left. Does he think we're lying? I wondered. 

Then Greg offered a slightly Grinch-like smile, with a suggestion. "You can take some extra orders with you. I have bags of Peirogi in the freezer!"   

​1980s Decor

Greg finally seemed to understand that we just wanted 2 pierogi orders. The stress lifted and we all seemed happy.

He took our order back to the kitchen. We could see a woman bustling around back there. As she cooked, we admired the decor. Polish and American flags, surrounded Michelangelo's famous work.

The TV right across from us was broadcasting in Polish.

There were postcards attached to the edge of the bar. Cans of soda and bottles of water rested on shelves. No booze at Podhalanka's, but evidently the building housed a tavern in the past. 

An image of Pope Paul II decorated one wall, while Princes Diana decorated another. It was if we were in a time warp from the 1980s, which is when Helena Madej opened her Polish restaurant. I read much about her later.

Warm Food

​After a while, Greg brought us a large warm plate, holding our polish dumplings, stuffed with various fillings. 

Greg suddenly seemed warmer. He asked where we were from and Don told him he once had family in the neighborhood. I asked Greg which pierogi fillings he liked best. "Meat!" he answered without thinking. "I like meat!"  The ice was broken.

The cabbage filled pierog was my favorite. Don and Heidi liked the finely ground meat filling best. I would have like the potato and cheese more, if I'd come in more hungry. Those little goodies were incredibly hearty! 

None of us felt drawn to the aged bottle of Przyprawa. I believe it was sort of a Polish soy sauce, which probably would have been a great addition. 

Posing with Greg

The restaurant was still empty when we got ready to leave. 2 young guys came in at one point, but didn't have cash. (the ATM wasn't working)

I took advantage of the lull and asked Greg to be in a photo. He was happy to oblige. An hour earlier I never would have guessed we'd end up talking so easily with this guy. He told us he'd taken over for his Aunt Helena, who had owned the biz for about 40 years. Was she the woman I spotted in the kitchen?

Off We Go

We headed out and I took one more look at that little building, with its faded sign and vintage stone facade.

Since our visit I've read some interesting interviews with Helena. She must have been a brave and stubborn woman, coming from Poland and taking on this business, then refusing to move when crime crept into the area. She lived upstairs initially. Maybe she still does. How wonderful that her nephew has been able to help, especially when the pandemic hit.

Neighborhood

After our quick "lunch" we made a quick drive into the old Polish neighborhood, behind the restaurant. We found the Holy Trinity Catholic Church, where mass is in Polish. Don wondered if that was where he attended his grandmother's funeral as a child.

But just a block away, we found another church. St. Stanislaus Kostska was once one of the largest parishes in the nation, with 35,000 parishioners! Which one did his father go to as a child? Don wasn't sure.

​Appreciating Heritage

We didn't have the time (or the address) to explore further and find where Don's dad once lived.

But we drove off to the airport, feeling satisfied and thoughtful, after our meal at Podhalanka. We got to at least try some pierogi and we also got to enjoy a little conversation with our Polish host, Greg. 

Driving through the old neighborhood where Don's dad once played and went to church and school, was the icing on the cake. I have no Polish blood, but I married into a good family! I had a wonderful father-in-law! 
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