Mammy's Cupboard, Near Natchez, Miss

​What to Think?

My husband and I drove by this whimsical building on Highway 61 last year, but it was closed.  When we drove by last week, the tiny parking lot was jammed. 

​We stopped and peered up at the woman with the pink brick skirt and polka-dotted kerchief.

​A Closer Look
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Looking at the upper half of the building, I was reminded of some of the distorted paper mache art projects, I often produced as a kid.  

The lower half was also  pretty amusing.  The idea of eating inside a skirt...a skirt with windows... seemed pretty appealing to someone like me, who puts more emphasis on curious dining than delicious dining.  ​Looking at these details was allowing me to ignore the fact that we were going inside a restaurant called Mammy's Cupboard.  The fact the face and arms were painted white in the 1960's, does not suddenly make this politically correct.  But we were drawn inside by curiosity.
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History

The skirt room as well as the added room in back, were pretty full when we entered.  Lorna, at the desk was happy to share a little about the history of Mammy's.  The building has been in the Gaude family ever since it was built in 1940.  After Gone with the Wind came out in 1939, a new interest in the antebellum South arose and nearby plantations suddenly opened for tours.  The funny skirted  restaurant  became an additional option for tourists visiting plantations.  I had other questions, but I didn't ask.

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Atmospshere
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We arrived in the middle of a big rush, of mostly locals and  small groups of traveling ladies.  The servers were bustling about with jars of sweet tea and plates of heaping food.  When things got quiet I could take a good look around and notice things, like all the different table and chair styles. The cinderblock walls and worn cement floors kept things cool.  There was a window air-conditioner in the front, but I noticed our room was letting in some fresh air through a screen door.  I love a screen door!

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Food

There was a reason the parking lot was full. The food was amazingly good.  Don's chicken salad on homemade sourdough was mouthwatering.  I got the Thursday special with roast pork loin with muscadine glaze.  That was okay, but it was the rice with brown gravy, southern green beans, and broccoli cornbread that excited me the most.  We were too stuffed for dessert, but purchased some banana-caramel cake to-go and rewarded ourselves when we made it home to Houston.

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One More Look

This dining experience left me confused.  The food was true comfort food and the atmosphere was cozy-retro.  But I felt myself sort of holding my breath as I absorbed the surroundings one last time on the way out.  I noticed a shelf with quite a collection of "mammy memorabilia". 

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A Reminder
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 And there was a painting that made me stop and ponder. The water color image showed the building with its original color, back when it was also a gas station.   Only the building  in the painting didn't look as cartoonish as it does in real life.  The artwork made the building look like a real person, carrying a tray.  To me, that image was a clear reminder that there are real people behind these caricatures.  There are people who sigh about the warmth and love behind the "mammy" image, but they are usually white. There are plenty of others who believe "mammy" is a racial slur.  If my skin is white and I felt uncomfortable being in this restaurant with all the reminders of racial stereotyping, how would I feel dining at Mammy's Cupboard if my skin were dark?  

I have to say, this dining adventure made me stop and think...

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