Roadside "Inn"

Don and I recently spent one night at the Santa Maria Inn, while traveling the California coast.

This is not what we saw when we arrived. But this is what travelers in 1917 saw when they drove up on the El Camino Real. The road was dirt back then.

Today

A green sign with gold letters, greeted us when we pulled off what is now, South Broadway. Behind the sign and fountain, stood a 6-story building and parking garage. It was part of the 164-room Santa Maria Inn.

The odd collection of old and new buildings looked very different from the quaint 24-room inn, that opened over a century ago.    
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1954 Ford Motor Company's Cookbook

It was our vintage cookbook that recently guided us to this historic hotel. A month before our trip, Don and I were finalizing plans for our road trip, when I grabbed the old book and flipped through the California section. I spotted the Santa Maria Inn and paused.

I did an internet search and was excited to learn that the 105 year old inn, was still in operation!

Charming... in 1954!

​​Don and I have made some major road trip detours, to hit some of the classic restaurants featured in our cookbook. This time we decided to make a detour for a meal AND an overnight. Fig pudding, if we were lucky!

We canceled a cute hotel in Solvang, CA and booked our Friday night at the Santa Maria. I kept fingers crossed that we wouldn't regret the decision. Reviews were questionable about the historic wing of the hotel. But how bad could it be?  

Not My Usual Style

I prefer old, but the hotel's website seemed to spotlight Santa Maria's "new" addition. It was added in 1984... so not that new.  I sort of cringed when I first laid eyes on the rambling complex. Not my style.

I'm sure the addition, with big picture windows was quite the thing, when it was built in the eighties. But that is not my favorite era for anything. Except for giving birth to my kids. 

Frank McCoy's Inn

Luckily, I'd made it clear when I made reservations, that we wanted a room in the old building. We could see the original 2-story structure, to the right  of the entrance. It looked different than the cookbook illustration. A clock tower had been added to hold an elevator. There were no vines.

The original Santa Maria Inn was the dream of Frank McCoy. Over 100 years ago, he built the Olde English-style inn, then filled it with art and surrounded it with gardens. ​McCoy's luxurious little inn catered to upscale travelers, needing accommodations between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The inn also became popular with movie stars, who were frequently invited to William Randolph Hearst's "Ranch". Back in those days, the 75 mile drive from Hollywood to Hearst's Castle, was more than a day's drive. Many of Hearst's guest spent a night at the inn, on their way.

Revolving Door

After arriving, I headed for the lobby. It was in the newer section, but the brass revolving doors made me feel like I was stepping into an old hotel.

Near the lobby I spotted a photo of Walter Matthau, with the revolving doors. I'm guessing this was taken about 25 years ago, when Matthau was in the area, filming Odd Couple II. He might be the last celebrity to have visited the inn. The sweet roadside inn became less popular by 1950, when Highway 101 was built and steered travelers away. The hotel struggled for years. 
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Creepy Lobby

The historic side of the hotel is actually said to be haunted. However, the lobby in the "newer" wing, attempted some haunted creepiness, with Halloween decor. 

The lurking character on the left, was a little annoying with his ghoulish schtick. (I kept getting too close and triggering his voice) Sometimes I wish historic hotels would skip the cobwebs and skeletons. They get in the way of my photos. But mostly, it was an eerie odor that was a bit unsettling. What was that?

Off to Gloria's Room!

Before long we were given the key to our Gloria Swanson Suite! This old postcard image shows how the inn looked, back when stars like Ms. Swanson, Charlie Chaplin, Bette Davis and Jimmy Stewart visited.  

The exterior has changed some over the years. But at least I could recognize the roofline and tile and original upper windows. The doors and windows on the first floor were hidden.  

Added Walkway

​​An enclosed walkway had been added to the front of the building.

We rolled our bags towards the elevator, walking past the windows and double doors, that had once been part of the hotel's exterior. 

 
​Gloria Swanson Suite

Upstairs, we wound our way down a few hallways, reading the names of different Hollywood celebrities, on each of the brass stars. I spotted maybe 20 different "star rooms", but the inn claims to have had at least 100 celebrity guests over the years. 

Our corner suite was spacious, with lots of windows and a sitting area. But there were issues. My photos don't really show the worn fabrics or dingy furniture... or the unappealing odor in the room. Honestly, I'm not usually this picky. But the sour milk scent was hard to ignore. 

Balcony

Santa Maria rates are very reasonable, but we'd paid extra for an Executive Suite​. We wanted a room with a balcony and courtyard view. We opened the doors for fresh air and took a peek.

The balcony would have been fine, if the solid, (ivy covered) wall hadn't totally blocked our view. When I stood tall and peered over, I could see a patio, with an odd covering. It was a little disappointing.

The Old View

100 years ago, the courtyard would have looked more like this. 

There would have been rocking chairs on a porch and no a.c. units humming. But times change. We were just frustrated that we'd paid more and expected more.

Clark & Carol

I'm the Queen of Adapting. I rarely complain. I take pride in making the best of what I'm given. But I just wasn't up for paying extra, for a smelly room with no view. I went to the desk and spoke with the manager. Marie was very pleasant when I sort babbled about hoping for a balcony with a better view...  She graciously walked with us to the Clark Gable & Carol Lombard Room to see how we liked it.

Basically we got a downgrade, which was just fine. The room was smaller and still a bit worn, but we were satisfied. We thanked Marie and stopped fretting. 

Balcony

Don and I do love a hotel balcony! This one was tiny, but at least we could see out, without standing.

The view was mostly a jungle of palms and some windows. But the air felt good and it was entertaining to study the old building. I think that was the Charlie Chaplin Room balcony, below.

Olde English Tap Room

It was before 5 on a Friday and I was eager to check out the Tap Room, at the far end of the building. From the exterior, we could see the fireplace chimney.

Frank McCoy added the Tap Room in 1941. It was designed to feel like an English pub. I loved the ivy covered side entrance, with the old neon sign.  

Loud!

Long before we entered the bar, we heard the music loud and clear. I'd seen photos on the website, with cozy couches near a fireplace. I had pictured a different vibe. My photo looks pleasant enough, but the rap music was blasting, along with TV and laughter. A lot of locals seemed to be arriving for Friday Happy Hour.

There were wonderful hints of the 1940's tavern, with classic red, tufted bar & booth seating. I spotted Gargoyles looking down from beams and the stone fireplace could have been inviting... if it hadn't been blocked by DJ equipment and more ghostly decor. We opted to let the locals enjoy the bar without us.

​Wandering

The weather was pretty lovely, so we headed outside to wander a bit. There was a large pool area that was nicer than we expected. Hopefully we didn't break rules. We didn't stop to read all 10 signs on the gate.

We walked across the deck, wondering where all the guests were on a Friday evening. Then we found our favorite kind of guest. Hotel Cat! Don got his cat fix.

We explored the grounds and found rose bushes and trees that were most likely on the grounds from the early years. Frank McCoy took great pride in his gardens and filled the hotel with fresh flowers.

Climbing

We peeked up stairways and wondered about the rooms and the guests who once stayed.

I was curious about the age of the this crazy looking tree. I climbed onto the roots for a photo and wondered if Shirley Temple climbed any trees on the property when she came to stay.

Fountains

The more we wandered, the fonder we became of this place.

I wondered if Bob Hope or Bing Crosby sipped martinis near this fountain, when they visited nearly a century ago. 

We found the room named for Charlie Chaplin, with its cozy porch. I wonder what he was like as a guest. Did he make the potatoes dance at the dining table?

The Grounds

As we explored, we saw tables beginning to appear on the lawn. The next day there would be an event. 

This property had seemed so dated and weary an hour before, but I found myself envious of the people who would later dine at these tables on the green lawn.

Happy Hour

After exploring, we grabbed our own wine from the car and headed to our balcony.

We sat for a while enjoying the evening. I set the camera timer and we did a porch pose. Suddenly I felt like we were missing things. "Let's take our drinks and go explore some more!" I insisted.

 
​The Coach Room?

I had noticed earlier that there was a room with lots of framed photos and history. There was a closed sign, but I chose to ignore that.

Cones and caution tape blocked off an area where tables and chairs were stacked. A giant fan was blasting away... trying to dry up a leak of some kind. Maybe it was wet carpet that created the smell that annoyed me earlier.

My color photo shows light fixtures that are similar to the ones in the vintage photo. We studied the colorful murals on the walls. There was a common theme. Each image featured a stagecoach. 

Sipping and Strolling

Don and I meandered with our wine, studying the old photos and reading the little bits of history. I felt like we were guests at an art gallery event. Except there was no one but us. Unless you count the life size skeleton and the furry spider on the table.  

We happily absorbed it all the faces and the trivia. Evidently Rudloph Valentino regularly haunts the inn. And Marilyn Monroe came to dine at the restaurant years ago. But she wasn't a star then. She was a child, dining with her foster parents, who lived in Santa Maria.

​Up and Down

Don and I moved on from the stars... to the stairs. We found an old set that was lovely, with intriguing designs.

We wandered into the new wing and found a set of stairs that made us feel like we'd had 5 glasses of wine. The mirrors and reflective brass made me feel woozy! We wandered downstairs and around wine bar, with a bored bartender. We didn't go in.


​Hints of Old
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Instead we continued our search to find treasures from the past. I love it that they haven't updated much in the old section. We found a few old phone booths.

And I was pleased to find old doorknobs and hardware and woodwork. 

John Wayne

We followed one more stairway and discovered a private patio. I'm not sure if we were supposed to hang out near the John Wayne Room, but no one seemed to be around. The doorway was intriguing with it's arched entrance.

I wish when we booked earlier, that I could have gotten more input about the various rooms. Maybe we could have asked details about some of the better rooms. The internet and the young staff, didn't seem very helpful with specifics about the different historic rooms. Next time I'll ask to speak to Marie. 

Dinnertime?

Today the hotel has just one restaurant in operation. It's called The Century Room.

The restaurant looked surprisingly formal and upscale when I peeked in, before hours.

The hostess desk was vacant. I approached the cobwebbed desk and took a peek at the menu, held by another statue. Not a ghoul this time. It looked a bit pricey. We'd had a big lunch and Don was skeptical.

Too Nice?

The restaurant looked lovely. There were no corny cobwebs or musty smells. The cozy booths and tables looked classy and the menus were appealing.

But, Don and I had been on the road, dining out for days. We had hoped for a more casual dinner that night. But, we had the darn cookbook! I reminded Don that we HAD to have a cookbook encounter, with at least someone during our stay. He looked very skeptical. "I don't see that going well." He moaned. And I knew he was right. So far, we'd met no one in the hotel who seemed liked they'd "get it" about how we use this book like a treasure map when we travel. 

Glad We Dined!

We ended up going for it, with plans of paying the 6-dollar splitting fee, to share an entree. Perfect. The second we walked in the dining room,  I felt like we were in a different world. There was no tacky Halloween decor and the furniture looked fresh and comfy. The only odors were delicious ones, wafting from the kitchen. 

There were white tablecloths and the voice of Frank Sinatra crooning quietly. Best of all we were given the waiter I had hoped for. I'd seen him earlier, bustling around attending to diners. He looked friendly, but seemed to take his job seriously. I liked him.

No Fig Pudding

Jesus introduced himself to us with an apology. We assured him that he hadn't kept us waiting at all. I  kept the cookbook under wraps and didn't ask if they served fig pudding... just yet. We let Jesus' description of the pasta special make the decision for us. We ordered some local wine and dug into the olive bread! 

Jesus brought our salad, split beautifully, with separate boats of dressing. Our half orders of pasta were ample and also delicious. We ate every bite!

Jesus and the Cookbook

By the time our meal was finished, the restaurant was nearly empty. Jesus looked relaxed and happy when we complimented our meal and service. I told him we were from Texas and asked if he could guess how we heard about Santa Maria Inn. 

I didn't press Jesus for an answer. Instead I pulled the book from my bag, telling him we'd never heard of the inn till a month ago. Then I opened the book to show him the illustration and Fig Pudding recipe. Before we knew it, Jesus had pulled over a busboy to take a look and then take our photo. Then he pulled out his phone. He wanted to send a photo of the 3 of us, to his daughter in Mexico. It was the perfect way to end our evening at the Santa Maria Inn.

Good Night

After dinner I stepped outside to have a peek of the hotel at night. It looked peaceful on a Friday. I walked around to see if the neon cocktail sign was lit. Sadly it was not.

Then I glanced  inside the old tavern and the music was actually softer and more inviting. The DJ had started up and he nodded with a pleasant smile when I looked his way. Then I headed upstairs to give my last report to Don. I chuckled as I used the old chain on our door. We slept well.

Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes

We checked out by 10 and headed off on one quick adventure, to complete our Santa Maria Experience. We drove not far to the Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes. We'd read about Cecil B. DeMille filming the silent version of the epic, The Ten Commandments at the Dunes, in 1923. He stayed at the inn during that period. 

I tried to imagine the massive pieces of scenery he created. Up to 12 stories high! I pictured the director and his crew and actors heading back exhausted, to relax at the inn.

Dune Center

When the film was completed it was too costly to remove the giant sphinx head and all the scenery. DeMill had the pieces buried in the dunes. 

We tried to visit the Dune Center which exhibits many of the remains that were excavated in the 1980's. Sadly the place was closed on Saturday. That means... we must return!

​What's Notable?
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Our stay at the Inn was indeed memorable! The Santa Maria may not be the most classy hotel we've every enjoyed, but it was defiantly a classic! ​After our shaky start, the place absolutely grew on us.

The historic section is obviously what we loved... flaws and all. But the modern, upscale dining experience was a huge highlight of our stay. I'd say we made good use both the old and new. 

Special thanks to Marie and Jesus for making our stay extra nice!
​

Not really. We just spent one night at Basecamp Hotel in South Lake Tahoe. This curious lodging-community, was created from a cluster of renovated motel buildings. Love that. 

Lobby

The cute hotel lobby didn't exactly look like a place for roughing it.  

It was a cozy space, with a fun collection of radios. However it was not very inviting, since some employee was lounging (lengthwise) on one of the couches for most of the evening. Not sure what that was about. 

Gathering Spaces

​There were lots of outside places for lounging. Just outside of the lobby, there was a "Picnic Deck" area, with tables and benches.

Above the lobby there was a Spa Deck, with a hot tub and some Adirondack chairs... and lots of fallen pine branches. It needed some spiffing up.

Courtyard and Beer Garden

On the opposite side of the property there was a spacious Courtyard, with picnic tables and fire pits. I'm not sure what the Airstream camper and small platform stage were used for.

My morning Courtyard photos are peaceful, but the place was hopping when we first arrived at 5 pm. It was "Happy Camper Hour" and guests were purchasing craft beers, and settling into Adirondack chairs.

Ping Pong, Spa & Pit

Steps away from the Courtyard, there were lots of other areas that invited more activity. There was corn hole and ping pong...

...and a much larger and cleaner hot tub, in an enclosed area. In October, the  heated tub was empty, but during ski season... I can only imagine!

Shopping

We had a few shopping options at Basecamp. This little shelf of merch, was inside the Beer Garden Bar. I noticed some mugs and blankets for sale in the lobby as well.

I would have bought a postcard, had they had one. But I didn't need a t-shirt or hat or frisbee.

Why Basecamp?

Our main reason for a night at Basecamp, was that we were meeting up with some younger folk, who happened to fit the Basecamp scene more perfectly than we parents! Don and I needed a place to stay with our son and DIL, before our" reunion" gathering a day later.

We just needed a reasonably priced, comfy, clean place for a night. Scott and Chali had stayed at Basecamp during busy ski season. They knew it would be quieter in October. Don and I were game to enjoy some of the campy flavor! 

Just Right

The smell of pine on that balmy October evening, was just what Don and I needed. We'd been up since 4:30, traveling from Houston to Sacramento to
​Tahoe.

Live music started up softly in the space behind garage doors. Temps began to cool and the nearby fire pit could have come in handy.

Relaxing

We thought about the hot tub. It was empty after all. Chali laughed to remember their last stay, when the tub was filled with "ski bros".  

But we were lazy and just relaxed with our South of North craft beers. Then the music cranked up a notch and we headed off for dinner. Basecamp's location was perfect, for walking to dinner!

Our Room

​Our 2 guest rooms were in the motel building across from the office. Judging from the trucks in the parking lot, we were sharing the motel with a crew of roofers, instead of hikers or skiers. I wonder if they were impressed by the "camp theme" in the rooms. I liked the canvas map of Tahoe, behind our bed.

The room and bath were nicely updated. I really appreciated the colorful bottles with symbols, in the shower. Perfect for someone who needs glasses to read the labels, on tiny containers of shampoo & conditioner. 

Theme

Our somewhat budget room was pretty darn cute for the price. We oldsters could have used a comfier chair and a bigger bed, but I did love the camp theme.

There was a cute orange lantern and rail road nails for hanging jackets. The artwork featured images and quotes that appeal to nature lovers. "Those who wander are not lost."

The Great Indoors

Only later did I study the website and realize we'd missed out by not booking one of the Great Indoors Rooms! If I'd only known, we could have slept inside a tent and sat on hard benches around a fake fire!

This website photo shows forest wallpaper and a picnic table and cooler. What a hoot! But it's probably good I didn't know about this. Don's fractured back is still healing and we probably couldn't have said yes to this option.

Location

Early the next morning, I rose and headed off on a walk in the opposite direction of the ski slopes. I found the lake!

What a treat to be able to step outside and lay eyes on Lake Tahoe, early in the morning!

Coffee and Lounging

When I returned, I grabbed comp coffee in the lobby and asked for a late check out. I noticed some amazing breakfast smells coming from the little coffee/breakfast shop in the rear of the lobby.  

We had a leisurely morning enjoying the quiet motel. Chali and I went shopping and the boys, hung out in the lobby. No one was sleeping on the couch in the morning!

​What's Notable?

For the price, Basecamp is hard to beat. The location (with free parking) is pretty ideal! For an off season, weeknight it was perfect. If all 73 rooms had been filled with young skiers, it would have been very different!

The renovations were just right. I liked the feeling of staying in an old motel, but I loved having remodeled bathrooms and nice bedding. The whole atmosphere took me back to my college days, when I actually spent a good amount of time backpacking and camping and skiing.

This past summer, we had our 6th stay at a hotel owned by the McMenamin brothers. This one was less quirky than the others. It had a golf theme. 

Old or New?

Most of the McMenamin hotels are located in refurbished, historic buildings. Most of the hotels on my 90 Nights blog, are historic or unusual.  

This hotel in Gearhart, Oregon wasn't old, but it was unusual. Plus it had a lot of history behind it.

An Overnight with Family!

It was towards the end of August, when "Pop and Grammaloon" traveled to the coastal community of Gearhart, with our grand baby and her parents. We found the Cape Cod-style hotel sitting conveniently beside the highway, across from the Pacific Ocean!

The old-looking hotel was actually constructed around 2001, on the spot of the original 1926 golf clubhouse. Around 2018, The McMenamin Bros bought the newish building, which held a pub and pro shop. (I believe) They added hotel rooms on the third floor and all the other festive stuff they're known for!

Killing Time

We weren't able to check in early, so we had some time to kill. We could have borrowed some of the hotel bikes and explored. Cute bikes!

Or we could have taken a seat on the bench in front. Old! That bench looked like it had been sitting there much longer than the hotel. 

​Since 1892

If we'd had clubs, we could have killed time on the golf course, behind the Gearhart Hotel. Scary! It's been a quarter century since I've held a club. 

This course has been attracting golfers since 1892. Gearhart Golf Links is one of the oldest golf courses west of the Mississippi.

Time at Beach

But, we hadn't come to the hotel for golfing or biking or bench-sitting. We came because it was near a beach. A century ago, travelers could come to this seaside hotel and enjoy both grass and sand. The original hotel from 1912, offered a beach on one side and golf course on the other.

The beach was much closer then. Guests could easily wander down from the porch and sit or stroll on the sand. They could even enjoy the ocean breeze as they rode in a horse drawn buggy. If guests didn't like the salty sea water, they could swim in the indoor pool. Sadly this hotel burned down in 1913.

The Last of the Oldies?

The hotel was rebuilt, but it lasted less that two years, before it met the same fate.

I'm guessing this old image shows the third hotel, built in 1922. Look at the grass and the stairs leading down to the water! Nice! This one lasted into the 1970's, but was razed to make way for condos. 
 
​Roadside Hotel

Today's hotel sits with its face to the highway and rear to the golf course. The ocean view is sadly blocked by newer buildings.

Luckily the Pacific was just a short walk away. And that's what we did with our spare time!

Down to the Beach

We crossed the street and headed down a pathway towards the ocean.

After passing a cluster of buildings we continued on a sandy path. I spotted a few familiar benches, oddly distant from the beach. The dunes must have shifted a lot over the years.

Beach Time!

​Before long we reached the sand and Charlie (at 18 months) saw her first ocean!  

We had to travel south a bit to reach the car free zone. Then we practically had the beach to ourselves. Charlie couldn't have been happier!

The Annex

By 3:30, we were able to check in. Our 2 rooms were located in a newer building, that was even closer to the highway. 

We'd hoped for a room with a view of the golf course, but we ended up on the west side of the building. However, we were happy to discover that we could indeed see a bit of the ocean, from our dormer windows! 

Annex from Behind

I usually shy away from the annex of anything. When I hear the word, I picture additions that aren't as good. But this building looked pretty sweet when I viewed it across the putting green. It looked classy... even though part of it was a golf cart garage.

There was a small sitting area, which offered complimentary coffee in the morning. The warm knotty pine and colorful art reminded us that we were in  one of the 12 unique, McMenamin hotels! 

Up We Go

We headed up the stairs, lugging a portable crib/playpen. Fingers crossed that our rooms would work well for a toddler.

At the top of the stairs we found more colorful art and light fixtures.

Glowing Colors
​
Another hallway in the Annex had a whimsical glow. Although I will admit, my eyes had a hard time adjusting in the dim space.

Colorful lights danced around at one end of the hall. A golfer and his putter almost glowed in the dark, from a large piece of art.

​Golf Theme

The McMenimin Bros really know how to embrace a theme. The halls in the Annex and the main hotel were filled with artwork, created to fit the golf theme of the hotel.

I recognized some of the art styles and artists from other hotels where we've stayed. Such clever images, tied into the history of Gearhart! 

Cleek Room

I was curious to see what name would be on our door. Usually McMenamin hotel rooms are named for people, but ours had a word that I didn't recognize. 

Evidently our room was named for some kind of golf club. There was a nice framed explanation on the wall. But long writeup was from 1887. It made no sense to me. Maybe the design of our headboard gave a clue.

​Comfy Space

The shape of our knotty pine room, made me feel like we were staying in a comfy attic space, in some grandma's old house. Although neither of my grandma's ever had such a stylish headboards. 

The room wasn't fancy, but it was luxurious compared to some of the classic McMenamin hotel rooms. We actually had a TV and our bathroom wasn't down the hall.

Cute and Cozy

Our Cleek Room was conveniently located next door to "the kids". They had the same cute alcove with chairs and table. They dragged their chairs over to our room, later in the evening.

The bathroom with shower wasn't huge, but no complaints. We've done the "shared bath" thing at a few of these whimsical hotels.  

Late Afternoon

After we got settled, I headed off to figure out the options for the afternoon. It wasn't even 4 pm, but we were ready to celebrate. We only had one night at Gearhart.  

There was a dining terrace overlooking the golf course and lots of seating on the lawn.

There was a raised deck as well, with good views of distant mountains, as well as the course.

Sand Trap Pub

I headed up the stairs to check out the inside options. The Sand Trap Pub offered a full bar as well as the usual McMenamin brand beers and wines. 

There were few people inside, on that beautiful afternoon.

​Deck Seating

Quite a few people were seated on the raised deck. (photo from morning)

It was tempting to grab a table under and umbrella. I love a hotel porch, especially when there's a view!

Here's a porch pic from long ago. These gentlemen were facing the camera, but the ocean was directly to their right. What a heavenly porch view!

​Back Down

After a text or 2 to the others, we agreed to gather on the lawn. 

I headed down the outside stairs and grabbed a table.

Pot Bunker Bar

Not far from our table in the grass, we found the Pot Bunker Bar. The cozy little pub space, beneath the porch was convenient. We could order and serve ourselves.

The fireplace was hardly needed, but it made things cozy. I thought I spotted a fire poker below the mantel. Of course not. That was a putter.

Old Photos

Another small room off the Pot Bunker, had a shuffleboard table...

...and a collection of historic photos. I snapped a couple photos of photos and hurried out to join the others.

​Perfect!

This image doesn't capture just how nice the air felt that afternoon. The Oregon coast can be windy and chilly. We were soaking in the afternoon rays, feeling incredibly lucky.

We sipped and gabbed and took in the view. It was entertaining to watch a crew of two, prepping fires in the fire pits and putting out lawn games for the evening.

Cheers!

In the past 2 years, we've learned not to take any of our trips or gatherings for granted. The pandemic has made trip planning more worrisome. but it's also made us more grateful. 

Heidi and I toasted to Charlie's first beach visit. She couldn't have been a happier little beach baby! We also cheered to pulling off this little trip without any covid intrusions! So many friends and family members have dealt with ruined plans, during this summer of 2022!

​Dinnertime 

The dining room was buzzing at 6, but we were seated after a short wait. Again the fire in the fireplace wasn't needed, but I appreciate the staff for keeping the hotel inviting!

Our server (who was also a mom) had lots of tricks up her sleeve to delight Charlie. Actually Charlie's biggest delight was tasting (and loving) Caesar Salad for the first time. Our meal was even more enjoyable, knowing we were just steps away from the Annex. 

Cards in the Room

Charlie didn't exactly fall asleep easily, but she rested quietly and we 4 played cards.

There was something so simple and satisfying about playing cards in that little alcove. These are the little things I'll remember about our overnight adventure.

Morning

​There was no rush in the morning, but we were all up and out early.

We wandered with coffee, trying to decide where to sit. The deck had soft chairs and a rocker or two!

 We chose the tables on the grass again. Just too easy. We ordered breakfast at the Pot Bunker Bar and enjoyed lingering.

A Walk in the Grass

The course was quiet on a Monday morning. We thought about letting Charlie have her first walk on a putting green...

...but she was happy enough to just feel the regular lawn under her feet. So many simple pleasures for this little girl.

​What's Notable?

​We spent a night at a hotel with a golf theme. That sounds like a resort, not a McMenamins Hotel. This hotel was definitely the most "regular" of all the McMenamins hotels that we've enjoyed. There were no secret passageways or movie theaters. There was no winery or distillery. The hotel had not once been an asylum or grade school. There was a history, but not a creepy or odd or over the top history.

Our stay was not full of wild and whimsical distraction. And that's part of what made it so nice. Our visit was not about the hotel really, it was about being with family in a place where we could easily enjoy each other... and enjoy a little taste of the beach. Perfect for us!
​

Spokane, Washington

This past August, Don and I booked a night at The Davenport. It was a good stopping point, on our trip between Bozeman and Portland. 

I was excited to lay eyes on the 108-year-old hotel. It took up a whole downtown city block. 

Four Sides

We circled the block looking for the entrance. I just love a fancy hotel entrance. I could have made a grand entrance... through a fancy entrance... but we could find no entrance.

Oddly, all the doors on the street were not in use. I'm not sure if that was a temporary issue. 

The East Wing

The lobby entrance was actually hidden in a new structure, built in 2000.  

The stucco and tile addition seemed out of place to me. At a glance, it looked like a modern chain hotel had been glued to an older brick building.

Louis Davenport & His Restaurant

Actually, the addition from 2000, looked very similar to the original Davenport Restaurant. The one-story restaurant (with ballroom above) once stood on the North-east corner of the block.

Louis Davenport is the name behind the hotel. Back in 1904, Mr. Davenport was more interested in food than hotels. That's when he had his Mission-style restaurant constructed. The towering brick hotel was added later. It opened in 1914.

​Unimpressive Entrance

Today's Mission-style structure holds no restaurant. It's mostly a large Porte Cochere/Parking Garage. We drove around the fountain and turned our car over for valet parking. 

Even with the fountain feature, the entrance was more convenient than elegant. But it was easy and we found the lobby desk right through the doors. 

Cool Check-In

It was a treat to step inside the chilled hotel. It was 101 degrees in Spokane that afternoon. I was impressed to learn that The Davenport was the first air-conditioned hotel in the USA. I was less impressed when I Googled and learned that many hotels claim to be first at offering that luxury.

As we checked in, I enjoyed the cool and admired the golden cherub on the front of the desk. There were lovely decorated key boxes with more cherubs and creatures. Griffins? Mr. Davenport looked pretty serious, gazing down from his portrait. Maybe his expression was just, seriously grateful. Grateful, that his hotel was rescued from demolition in the 1980's. 

Heading Up

After checking in, we grabbed bags and headed for the elevator. Our modern keycard was needed to operate the fancy elevator, with its padded interior.

We reached the 8th floor and set off in search of our guest room. The hotel had 284 of them, plus 37 suites. Not all on the 8th floor, of course!

Room 809

I wasn't expecting anything too grand, since we booked just about the cheapest. Actually $275. is a lot for these thrifty travelers. 

The room was decent and traditional. The bed was super comfy and the shower was huge. We were happy.

View of The Terrace

I was delighted to pull open the drapes and enjoy a nice view of the Roof Garden Terrace. My photo shows the view in the shady morning, but at 4:30 pm the terrace was baking in the scorching sun.

I found that out when I dashed down a little later. The red umbrellas just didn't offer enough relief, but the area still looked inviting.

Examining the Building

​Our window also gave us a good look at the upper part of the hotel's exterior. It looked surprisingly simple and basic.

Louis Davenport created this room in honor of his friend, Harper Joy. The man with the happy name, was so fond of circuses that he often ran away with them. The circus-themed room was not just used for children's parties, but was used for adult gatherings. Now it's a spacious guest room!  

Exploring the Lobby

​I left Don relaxing in the room for a while and headed down to check out the decadent first floor.

So many old hotel lobbies are dim and depressing. The Davenport's Spanish Renaissance-style lobby had some nice sunlight pouring through the art glass ceiling panels. 

Fancy Beams

The light also illuminated the decorated, faux wood beams. The designs  were originally painted, but the colors were completely hidden for years.

During hotel renovations in 2000, the beams were carefully cleaned. Years of cigar, cigarette and fireplace smoke was removed and the colors were revealed.

Pretty Doors

I dashed around the lobby snapping a few pics and came upon some interesting doors.

I was intrigued with all the designs. The golden gate/door seemed to be  guarding some kind of locked boxes. ? Who knows what was behind the wooden doors with crests. They were locked. 

Stairs

The golden staircase was as much fun as the golden elevator.

I loved the little cherubs on the railing. They had wings like the figures on the lobby desk. So many cherub/angels in The Davenport!

Grand Mezzanine

I found more glass ceiling panels on the Mezzanine level.

There was a much better view of the cast plaster beams on the upper level. The burgundy, gold and teal colors were more vivid. Evidently there are surprises hidden all over the hotel if you have time. I learned about some special words later, or I would have hunted for them. The words, "Will You Marry Me" are written somewhere, in the faux wood grain.

View From Above
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The view over the railing could have been fun for a little people watching activity. But there were few people to watch. I studied the seating options instead. 

I could see dining tables and a glowing fireplace at the far end. Below me, I spotted lots of cozy couches and chairs and a musician, seated near the piano.  

Lobby Entertainment
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The man was playing guitar, not piano. He created a pleasant sound, that filled the space, without intruding. 

I wonder if those tall, swirling light posts were golden, back when the (black and white) Maypole photo was taken.
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More Lighting

The incredibly ornate hanging fixtures, looked just as they did in the early photo.

The original sconces, still glow from the walls. Again, how lucky that this hotel was rescued from demolition. An apparently wealthy couple, (Mr. & Ms. Worthy) bought the entire block in 2000. It took 2 years and 38-million bucks to reopen the closed hotel.

Enjoying the Lobby

By 5:30, Don and I were ready to let the evening begin! We spent some time hanging out in the lobby, sitting in large comfy chairs. And by the way, is that a shark or a catfish in the fountain?

The lobby was pretty quiet on a Thursday evening, which made it seem like guitarist Steven King was playing just for us. He filled the open space with calming tunes. All appealing, from the Beatles to Gershwin. (Amazing "Fingerstyle" skills!) We kept him going with clapping and tips and compliments on his music and his bolo tie. Elenor Rigby was my favorite.

"Meet me at the Fireplace"

The Davenport is known for its fireplace, which is lit 24/7, during every month. "Meet me at the fireplace."  is a sentence associated with this hotel. Don and I actually ended up meeting someone at the fireplace. We headed over at one point to have a look at the fire (now gas) and the painting above.

A man was dining alone nearby. He looked to be nearly as old as the hotel, but he appeared content and he laughed when I told him I needed the fire's warmth. I added, "This air-conditioning works too well." He pointed out his sweater vest and agreed. He seemed delighted that we were enjoying the hotel that he so adored. He was visiting Spokane for a few nights and enjoying long ago memories, of when he and his wife had their rehearsal dinner at the hotel. It had been 20 years since she'd passed, so not his first visit without her. What a positive man and what a lovely encounter, at the Fireplace. 
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Food & Drink

The hotel's Palm Court Grill was only serving in the lobby that night. Don and I weren't up for a formal dinner, so we headed into the Peacock Room, to check out drink and dinner options. 

We enjoyed some people watching and decided to return after 9, for the Late Night Menu.

Peacocks!

​I failed to get a decent photo of the colorful stained glass above the bar. ​The peacock design was made of 5,000 pieces of stained glass. There were also two stuffed peacocks perched beside the TV, enjoying the baseball.

When Don and I returned after 9, we sat near the peacocks at the bar. We should have ordered Crab Louie, because we were told the famous dish was first created at The Davenport. My internet search was similar to the history of hotel air conditioning. Many restaurants claim to have created it. But there's decent proof of the Davenport's connection to the recipe! No crab for us, but Don and I enjoyed a light dinner, along with some surprise samples of Peanut Brittle Martini, from the generous bartender! Quite amazing!

Time to Explore Ballrooms!

​A good part of our evening was spent exploring... after our early martini happy hour.

There are numerous ballrooms at the hotel and they all seemed to welcome us with open doors! 

Isabella Ballroom

Talk about a grand entrance! There were golden gates and dramatic curtains, leading to the room named for Queen Isabella of Spain. 

This elegant space had once been the hotel's main dining room. 

Infinity Mirrors!

​Don and I had some fun with the mirrored walls. The accent frames were gilded with 22K gold leaf.

I did a proper curtsy in front of Queen Isabella's portrait. But now I realize my back was to her. I think I broke a rule there!

The Hall of Doges

​This photo shows the ballroom, that was inspired by the famous palace in Venice. This ballroom was constructed above Davenport's Restaurant in 1904.

When the hotel was refurbished in 2000, the whole ballroom was lifted by crane and the old restaurant was removed. Once the new east wing was constructed, the crane carefully moved the ballroom to its new spot. 

Stage Set?

This photo makes it easier to see how a ballroom could be lifted and moved to a parking lot for a while.

It looks like a room, within a room. A stage set! But I love it!

We had a wonderful time wandering through, admiring the Gothic arches and sparkling chandeliers.

I wasn't surprised to see more cherub/angels looking down from the fresco ceiling. This lovely pastel ballroom cost $30,000 in 1904!

Grand Pennington Ballroom

Just steps from the Hall of Doges, we peeked into a much larger and newer ballroom.

This gigantic (Imperial Russian-style) room seemed almost ridiculously large. I did some pondering. Who has enough money to rent this space? Who has enough friends to fill it? Then I thought about getting on that empty stage for a moment. I've been known to make use of an empty one. Then I thought about security cameras... We moved on.

Marie Antoinette Ballroom

This ballroom was Mrs. Davenport's favorite. There were too many tables for us to try out some dance moves. But this room held a floating dance floor, suspended on cables! What fun!

The ceiling color was supposed to remind guests of the sky at dusk, or dawn. The $10,000 chandeliers were supposed to glimmer like heavenly stars. I like picturing and the sparkling jewels and dresses on that dance floor in the 1920's.

Model T Display

I wish I could have seen the Marie Antoinette room nearly a century ago, when they displayed this 1928 Ford!

What a complicated and entertaining task, getting this Model T in and out. Why don't they do over the top things like this anymore?

Which Window?

The next morning, I went outside and looked at the windows, wondering which one had once opened itself up, for a car to pass through.

I couldn't figure that out, but I noticed some wonderful ram heads! The lower part of the building is much more ornate than the upper brick.

​Time for Elizabeth!

The very last room we visited was my favorite. It was named after me, of course. This English Tudor-style room was Mr. Davenport's favorite.

The ballroom was the first in the world to use folding panel doors, so the space could be divided. 

Posing with Food

I was happy to do a little pose next to the beautiful wood panels. I surprised to read, that this lovely wood was covered  in gold-flocked wallpaper, in the 1970's. Ugh!  

In the old photo you can see a chef standing beside an elaborate display of food. I wish I could have had a feast in the Elizabethan Room. I guess I could have, if I'd opened my bag from the gift shop. Davenport's Signature Soft Peanut Brittle!

Time for Don!

Eventually we traveled down to the basement so Don could see the pool. He loves a hotel pool and we could have had this one to ourselves.

Don didn't have a suit, so I invited him to do some posing with the modest lady painted on the wall. Then Don discovered a CVS vending machine that totally cracked us up. We couldn't buy candy bars, but we could purchase Covid tests or condoms. What a hoot.

​The Terrace

​By the time the moon was up, it felt safe to step out on the terrace.

We enjoyed the colorful smokestacks and Beatles mural, but the air still felt heavy. We only stayed out a while.

Famous Guests

After our bar dinner we headed back to our room, wondering about all the people who have visited the hotel over the years.

Bing Crosby has the most history with the hotel, but there's a huge list of past celebrity guests. If I could go back in time and dine or dance with one guest, who would it be? Elvis, Teddy Roosevelt, Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Clark Gable, Babe Ruth, Lawrence Welk or John Phillips Sousa?  Not telling.

What's Notable?

We slept well and left Spokane in good spirits. This is a hotel we would recommend. The staff was welcoming and building itself was welcoming.

I love a hotel that allows me to explore. With the exception of about 2 locked doors, we were free to roam. There were plaques and historic photos to help guide us. We really needed one more night, to enjoy a dinner by the fireplace and maybe a drink on the terrace. We'll do that on our next visit... when we stay in the Circus Room!
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A minute before, we'd pulled into Salado, knowing little about the town. It looked surprisingly lively, on a hot afternoon. Tourists roamed the shops and picnicked in the nearby park. We pulled into the lot and I headed inside the Registration Office, where the a.c. worked well! I was given a key and a very chilly metal pail, filled with ice. Ahhh! But where was the hotel?

​The Original Inn

Just steps from the office, (but fairly hidden behind trees) was the hotel's restaurant. The wood framed building, was the original, Shady Villa Inn. It opened in 1861 as a stagecoach stop, serving travelers on the Chisholm Trail. (This was not our hotel for the night!)

In 1943, Dion and Ruth Van Bibbers bought the property and opened a sophisticated southern style tea room. It was renamed the Stagecoach Inn. They stopped accepting lodgers at some point and focussed on adding dining rooms. We made reservations for the evening!

We drove our car from the office, to a shady building in the back of the grounds. Our accommodations were in a post WWII motel, not a Civil War era inn. No problem.

Pink Coach!

As soon as we hopped out of the car, we could hear the cars whizzing by on I-35. I wandered towards the sound and found the original motel lobby and coffee shop. Now closed.

I also found a stagecoach, sitting on some dry grass. Even with bright yellow and pink paint, it looked sort of lonely and forgotten. I'll bet it must have delighted kids back in the day, when they spotted it from the highway. The front of the hotel once faced I-35. That was back when the highway was brand new and much quieter.  

Love the Neon

From our parking area, the trees nearly blocked the iconic neon sign. But the cars flying by, had a good view.

It was only a couple years ago, that the Stagecoach Inn was taken over by Austin based "Bunkhouse Group". They reverted to the original Shady Villa name. I'm glad the old neon sign still glows!

Building #1

Scattered on the property, there were several buildings holding 48 rooms. All were connected by pretty walkways. As we headed towards our building, I wondered how this structure looked when it was built in the '50's. 

The Bunkhouse Group has done a great job rescuing numerous historic hotels. We've stayed at a few in Texas. I felt like I was spotting their style as we climbed the steps. The white brick, chickenwire with vines and interesting light fixture... All seemed to have a little Austin Hipness.
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​Both Sides
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The outdoor hallway revealed painted doors, but no windows. Each upper unit had an entrance on the north, with glass doors and balcony on the south side.

The lush landscaping offered lots of privacy, to the patios on the lower level. I was glad to be higher, with a view.

Cool!

Our spacious room with Saltillo tile floors felt cool on a hot day. The shiny floors made me feel like we were staying at a hotel in Mexico.  

The whole room had a cool, mid-century vibe. We had our naugahyde daybed/couch with lounge pillows and a hip swag lamp and a wall of glass, inviting us to the balcony.

Comfy Bed 

The daybed actually was not a bit comfortable, but the king bed and linens felt heavenly. And we had a very relaxing photo image above the bed. (Big Bend National Park?) All rooms featured photographic scenes of Texas.

I so appreciate having side tables and shelves and lamps, when we travel. I never expect to have a sound machine, but we had one.
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Fresh Bathroom!

The tile work in the bathroom was extra bright and fun. Reminded me of minty, Chiclets gum! 

The modern sink was sleek and the towels were thick and soft. What did the bathrooms look like 2 decades ago, when the hotel was run down and truckers were the usual guests? Those tired drivers would have loved making use of the giant showers, with great water pressure!

Extras 

Back in the '50's and '60's, travelers never expected a fridge in a motel. Microwaves weren't even in homes then. Our mid-century motel room had neither of those. I was fine with that.  

We did have an interesting coffeemaker, though. I fussed with it a while, but couldn't get my water heated. The cans of still water, were much cuter than plastic bottles. Color television? Luckily we didn't have a retro model with rabbit ears. We had a nice wall-mounted TV, with good picture and decent stations. Yay for TCM movies!  

Perfect?

The balcony was almost perfect. Especially with canvas butterfly chairs and an exotic lamp! There was just a little bit of stain on the fabric, from roosting birds. Balconies and birds...we've had this problem before. 

But we had a perfect view of the pool and grounds. Not too close! And we had the perfect amount of trees for shade. But, it was still 99 degrees!

Wandering

We had a couple hours until dinner. Don cooled off in the room, gabbing with the kids who called to wish him a Happy Dad Day!  

I braved the heat and wandered the grounds, enjoying the shade of live oaks and the sounds of splashing in the pool.

I headed down Main Street, towards Salado  Creek, then  returned to make sure we had time to hit the pool before dinner.

Pool Time
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​Something about the trees and jungly growth and the retro motel building, took me back to my childhood years living in Florida.

I was reminded of neighborhood pools, near my family's home in Tallahassee. Something about those retro chaise lounge chairs, resting under mod sunshades. But most of all it was the grass. It felt like 1967 and we were gathering with other families for a Father's Day BBQ!. There was a homey, or even  camp-like atmosphere. 

​Happy Hour on the Balcony

After a little pool time, we headed back to our room in wet suits.

We made use of the light, "serape robes" (that we've seen in other Bunkhouse Hotels) and covered our chairs. Our wet suits kept our bodies cool, while we sipped iced drinks and toasted to Don's 36th Father's Day. I promised we'd celebrate back home, the next day.  

​The Pavilion

On our way to dinner, we took our time checking out the brand new, spacious pavilion.

There were lots of games that made me wish our kids were with us. Ping  Pong, darts and giant Connect Four.  

Best of all there was lots of seating. Chairs and tables and couches, all in little gathering areas.  For cool months, there was a fireplace built into the stone wall. For steamy summer days, there were big fans hanging down from the rafters!

Western Club

​On the opposite side of the covered shelter, we found the Western Club.

The inviting bar, was just steps from the pool. I was surprised that it wasn't open on a busy "holiday", but maybe the new space hasn't fully opened yet. I can see how this whole resort-camp vibe might be catching on very soon.

​Restaurant Time

As we approached the restaurant, I had fun imagining this place back in the '50's when the Van Bibbers kept customers coming back for more deviled eggs and hushpuppies and Mrs. Van's Strawberry Kiss dessert!

We could spot some obvious additions. Many were added by the Van Bibbers. The ramp with more chickenwire, looked new.  

In the 1800's

It was fun to imagine what the inn was like, even further back in time.

I'm guessing this live oak (that seems to be growing in 2 directions) was probably around before the inn.

Local folklore says that General Sam Houston once stepped out onto the veranda to give a speech against secession from the Union..

We peeked in another upstairs room with the same appealing wood and stone.

Dining on Sunday Evening

The first floor of the inn is usually available for diners, but there were a.c. issues.

I would have loved to have eaten in this room. I have no clue about the man in the portrait or the cash register. There seemed to be many images of Mr Van Bibber in other rooms.

Lunch with the Ladies
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The Van Bibbers added dining spaces gradually in the 40's and '50's. I love the way they built around the oak tree!

I wish I could go back in time and have lunch with some lady friends. We'd remove our white gloves and have a little iced tea with our sandwiches.

Sunroom

I wish Don and I could have enjoyed our dinner in this room, overlooking the grounds.

It was full of diners when we first arrived, but it would have been a fun choice.

Main Room

​The main dining room didn't have the historic charm of the old inn, but it had a nice open feel, with books and fireplace, a couch and a bar. ​

My traditional chicken fried steak barely fit on my plate. It had an incredibly crispy, flavorful crust and sweet onion gravy!  

Back We Go

We didn't linger long. It had been a busy holiday at the hotel/restaurant and the staff had clearly put in a long day. 

We left happy and meandered back. The pavilion looked inviting even though the bar was closed.

All to Ourselves

And maybe it was lucky for us that the Western Club wasn't open.  

We had the pavilion to ourselves. Don got some wine from our room and we shared a glass, under a whirling fan. We were no longer bothered by the heat or the roar of I-35.  What a fun and comfy space.

Morning

In the morning, Don and I rose early and headed off in search of coffee. 

The air had cooled and Main Street was quiet! We found a coffee shop and wandered with our cups, in both directions. There were lots of little photo ops and I clicked away.

Salado Pics
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Here are a few from the evening before. Click to enlarge.

And way too many photos from our morning walk!

The jungly setting kind of tied it all together, with a casual resort feel! Cheers for a little pool time and quiet pavilion time and walking in town time.

We will definitely hit this place again! Hopefully before room rates rise high!
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