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St. Clair, Michigan In June, Don and I flew into Detroit and drove an hour to the eastern thumb of Michigan's mitten.  Right on the edge of that mitten shaped state, we found the river town of St. Clair. A town I'd never heard about, back when I lived in Michigan. Why St. Clair?. A family gathering on Lake Michigan, was what took us to the state. But it was the old Ford Motor Cookbook that steered us towards the town on the St. Clair River.  While planning our trip, I made sure to peek at the Michigan section, in our 74-year-old book. There I found a recipe from Chef Zimmer, of the St. Clair Inn. A Google search let me know the hotel was still open for business and had been recently renovated! We booked. Since 1926 We arrived on a cloudy afternoon and spotted the hotel, looking out over Riverside Drive. The fine looking inn opened its doors nearly a century ago.
The fine looking young woman standing with her hands on her hips, was not quite so old. "Clair" and 5 other statues, were created 5 years ago, for the reopening of St. Clair Inn. Impressive Design When we arrived, the brick and timber, U-shaped building, looked as tidy as the internet photos.  As we moved closer to the gabled entrance, some of the more whimsical features stood out. The swooping, wood-shingled roof, caught my eye.  The little tower to the left, looked right out of a storybook. At night, other features (besides our shadows) popped out.  I noticed the curious brickwork after I snapped a photo. A few bricks at funny angles, here and there!  And the colorful glass was a fun surprise. So was the Speakeasy, behind those glowing circles. Lobby After stepping into the lobby we were greeted by Ashely, at the desk. She was enthused about the hotel's history and pointed out some of the original features. Plaster ceiling with rough-hewn timbers...
...gray oak staircase and original brick floors! We could see dips in the worn brick, near the check-in counter. Lounge Area A couple steps down from the lobby was a comfy lounge area, freshly decorated.  In the morning there was a coffee bar set up on the round table, Imagining 1926 I loved the stone fireplaces at opposite ends of the lounge. I wish I could have found old photos with folks in 1920's attire, gathering near the fires.
It's impressive that the hotel could have opened during the height of Prohibition. Evidently the inn became quite the gathering place for wealthy locals and vacationers. Dining Areas I did a quick peek into some of the dining areas.  I tried to imagine some diners in the 1950s, ordering Chef Zimmer's, Fried St. Clair River Pickerel. I read about that, in the yellow cookbook.  Sadly, I don't believe these grand spaces are being used for daily dining. Just events. And I wasn't even sure which dining room was the original, since there have been renovations over the years. But I enjoyed wandering and looking at the interesting windows.
And looking out of the windows, I could see some figures that appeared to be getting ready to dive into the river! Speakeasy Ashley was sad to inform us that Prohibition (the hotel's appropriately named speakeasy) would be closed that night. She said the door was unlocked and welcomed us to have a look.  There wasn't anything too secretive looking about the Speakeasy. But it was fun to see the slanted ceiling and colorful windows. I'm not clear if the inn originally had a speakeasy. I'm guessing yes. Second Floor Room We could have booked a room in the new wing, but we chose the original building. We took the old staircase up from the lobby and found our room just a few doors down.
Our door opened to a wall of shelves and storage... which might have been nice had we stayed more than a night. The bathroom was on the left. Cozy Our room was small, but the soaring ceiling (at least in the corner) made the room feel bright and airy.
The gray and white decor was lovely. Way Back When The photo below shows one of the hotel's origial 60 guest rooms. (photo credit: Wisconsin Historical Society)  The old room looks larger than ours. Big enough to hold 2 beds and 4 chairs! Evidently, when the hotel opened in 1926, they had with air-conditioning! That's surprising. My family didn't have AC when we lived in Ann Arbor, in 1975.  Along with AC, our room had a large flatscreen TV and a Nespresso coffeemaker and a fridge! I'm fairly certain our bed was much more comfortable than the beds in the old photo! The best part of the room was the window.  We could open it up and taken in the river scenes, with lots of activity! Classy I wish I could have found photos of the original bathrooms. I have no idea what the this space looked like in 1926 or even in 2016, when the property was most recently purchased.  I believe, the grand hotel had been closed and empty for at least a decade. What a classy job they did with the marble and rainfall shower. Dive Theme After exploring inside, it was time to check out the property overlooking the river. We exited near the hotel's new restaurant, "The Dive". The silhouette image on the window was a fun preview.
Steps took us up to a spacious terrace, overlooking the St. Clair River and some more divers! Along the boardwalk, we found 5 more bronze statues, perched on 8-foot pilings!  This curious art installation was created by artist Dale Evers, for the inn's reopening, about 5 years ago. The inspiration was a photograph from 1979. The Photo In 1979 there was evidently a sort of "club" among the employees. I'm not sure when it began or how secretive it was, but diving off the pilings was pretty much what the club was all about.  This photo from '79 surfaced after many years. It shows one of the many diving celebrations. On the day it was taken, they were celebrating one of the waiters, who was about to head off for college.  The statue on the right shows busboy Tim, diving in his uniform. I wonder how many of these local "kids" are still in the area. I'm sure they never thought they'd be part of an art installation. Facing the River I wish I could have jumped into the river, just to get far enough away to capture the whole back of the building in a photo.  I couldn't get back far enough to show the whole inn. But this image shows "The Dive" restaurant/bar, with great window views of the river. The Cookbook Illustration If I'd been able to swim out from where the flag and statues were displayed, I could have enjoyed a view, similar to the image I found in the cookbook.
The mid-century-cartoonish illustration cracks me up. I recognize the timber and plaster exterior on the side. Facing the water, I see 2 chimneys and the 3 "eyebrow windows" letting light into the attic.  Of course the glassed in restaurant/bar wasn't there when the cookbook came out in 1950. But I was a little curious to see if the book's recipe was on the current menu! The Dive It was about 5:00 when Don and I headed in, to check out The Vibe at The Dive.
The river scenery was lovely, but the place was loud and casual. The sports bar atmosphere was not a bit like the old dining room where waiters once served up Pickerel, in 1950. The current staff was young and surely not at all interested in a vintage book featuring the inn.  We decided to order drinks and take them outside to the patio. The Terrace Unlike the crowded bar/restaurant, the terrace deck was empty and quiet.  There were only a handful of tables on the wide open terrace. The perfect view of the river and Canada, just across! We grabbed the table with the umbrella... just in case the sun came out. There were a couple sprinkles, so we lucked out.
It was surprising how many barges traveled up and down the river. A few motorboats as well.  It was fun to imagine the St. Clair River, in the early 1900s. Overnight steamers were common back in those days.  We also kept an eye on the nearby wedding activities. Evidently, St. Clair Inn once hosted 11 weddings in one weekend. Quite the place, back in the day! Locals Before long we weren't the only guests on the terrace. Jerry chatted with us for a while, about the summers he spent in St. Clair as a kid.  He pointed to a building across the river in Canada. It was a liquor store, he said. During Prohibition, a Model T would drive across the ice flows to the get alcohol. Really!?  Next we met locals, Chris and Bob who told us they dine weekly at the Inn. It was wonderful to hear their stories about the community and how everyone has pushed to bring the old hotel back to life. I was about ready to move to St. Clair, after hearing about the pros of small town living. I at least wanted to come back in a week, to see the firework display over the river! Dylan and Cookbook Eventually, Don and I decided to order dinner on the terrace. Bob flagged down Dylan who had served them. Dylan seemed like a nice enough guy, so I went ahead and did the cookbook thing. Asked him if they had Fried St. Clair River Pickerel.
Dylan apologized that they didn't. Which was no surprise and I didn't want to order it anyway. But then I showed Dylan the book, to explain why I'd asked. He was properly amused and happily posed with us, while Bob snapped a photo! We enjoyed salads with chicken, while the sun disappeared.  I told Don we needed to stay until small lamps lit up. They did by 9:30.  We walked down near the restaurant and it looked like they were closing up before 10.  We continued down the boardwalk and looked back to see the the night view of the inn (and some newer cottages) sitting beside the calm water.  After strolling along the river, we wandered back on Riverside Drive and returned to the inn, all lit up and welcoming... but quiet. No late night wedding party celebrations. We had a peaceful night. Morning I woke early after a night of rain and took a walk along Riverside Drive. I returned by way of the boardwalk and took one more look at the Divers!
I missed my chance the night before. I forgot to ask Dylan our waiter... had he joined the club? Did he ever dive from one of the pilings? What's Notable? We stayed at a beautifully restored 98-year-old inn, sitting right on the St. Clair River. Despite the age, the property felt fresh and clean and welcoming.  I'll most fondly remember the time sitting out and watching the river. Learning about the inn and town, from locals made the visit more special. I hope the inn continues to attract travelers and locals as it did when it first opened. Maybe the restaurant will eventually open for nightly dining and we can return. I'll kindly suggest they put Fried Pickerel on the menu!
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Newish Hotel on the Island This is a brand new name for an old hotel, on Galveston Island.  When I read about this newly opened hotel (just over an hour from our home) I told Don, "We need to get there fast, before prices skyrocket!" Windows and Doors We booked 2 nights in mid May and arrived on a Monday afternoon.  We parked in front of a set of round windows and headed for the double doors, with fancy door handles. (not an H, but 2 squiggly Ls... one backwards) Looking In Looking Out As we approached the doors I snapped a photo, just as one magically opened. Well sort of like magic. A tall and gracious young man named Luis, held the door for us.
After entering, I dashed over to look out one of the "porthole" windows. A storm was brewing over the Gulf of Mexico! 1963 Motel Hotel Lucine is a super fresh boutique hotel that opened just a half year ago.  It began as Treasure Isle Motel, over 60 years ago. This matchbook cover shows the the only image I could find, of the original motel on Seawall Boulevard. Before and After The project to reinvent this 1960s motel, began a few years ago with a trio of new owners. When they took on the worn out motel, the Pearl Inn. You can see the same signature zigzag roofline on the left. And the square "arch" on the right.  Hotel Lucine opened in November of 2023, with a fresh white brick face. At a glance it still looks like a vintage motel, but every square inch has been transformed. Luis Greets After Luis ushered us through the doors, he checked us in at the desk. He couldn't have been more pleasant and welcoming throughout our stay.  I was busy chatting with Luis when a gentleman wearing an untucked oxford cloth shirt and jeans, came through the courtyard door.  I gushed with both about all the details I had noticed from the skylights over the lobby bar, to the pleasant music soundtrack that was playing. We learned later that the man in the white shirt was one of the owners. I wish I'd known. I had so many questions about how a weary motel could become a sleek modern oasis. Room 214 Don and I booked a King Room on the second floor, so that we could have a balcony. (less than $150 a night) Traveling up the original concrete stairs reminded me of childhood Holiday Inn stays.
The stairs took us to an exterior walkway, facing the parking lot. (again like old motel days) But the freshly painted brick and the fact we needed our keys to access the exterior walkway, made the old motel feel new and safe. Simple and Modern The room was quite spiffy compared to the photos I saw from Pearl Inn days. The only window at that time, was within a door to the balcony.
All was fresh and new in our room. The bed and linens were comfy. But, I was mainly excited to have a pool facing balcony. Comfy The room was just comfy enough. A chair for Don. He likes to sit a bit.
A robe for me! Actually a robe for both. These were the best! Light and airy. The arms did not stretch down to my knees, like some! Fridge There was no coffeemaker or microwave, but we had a nice fridge packed with interesting goodies that we could purchase.
We didn't sample any of the 8th Wonder Cannabis Limeade, but I did make use of the ice bucket, so we could ice down our own drinks. Pink Tile The pink tile in the bathroom made me smile! It was so bright, I thought it was a new, vintage-look tile.
I learned from Luis later that the tile was indeed original. The products in the shower smelled wonderful! No mini Holiday Inn soaps in this shower.  I do love a classy toilet touch! The Pool! As a kid, all that mattered about a motel, was the pool! Now I'm in my sixties and we own a pool. I don't need to drive 68 miles to sunbathe next to strangers. But Hotel Lucine's pool made me a kid again. I was giddy!  I was excited just to see it. I didn't mind that the umbrellas were all down and the sky was filled with storm clouds! I sat on our little balcony and watched the rain pound the pool water.  I loved watching the words disappear underneath the water. I loved how the light changed and made the checkerboard tiles brighter! Later that night, the rain stopped and helpful staff uprighted some fallen umbrellas. I stood down on the deck and looking up at the zigzag roof.  The colorful balconies delighted the kid in me once again! Standing at the other end of the U-shaped courtyard, I wondered what this pool would look like on a balmy summer evening.  It's a matter of time before word gets out about this charming hotel. Even at night, I imagine the lounge chairs will be filled. The best pool time we had, was in the mornings with our coffee!  After the storms moved out, fresh and clear air moved in! It was glorious. We had the entire pool area to ourselves. I floated on my back and looked up at a blue sky, framed by colorful roof shapes. Occasionally, seagulls invaded my solid blue window. And I loved it!  I didn't push my luck with a phone in the pool, for more than a moment. I handed over my cell and floated some more. While Don and I lounged and sipped coffee, we chatted with Nicole who was happily placing rolled towels on chairs. She was eager to share a few stories of growing up in Galveston. Oh how pleased she was with the motels transformation!  Before long all the umbrellas were up and the pool courtyard looked picture perfect. I actually felt like we were on a tiny cruise ship, with a pool in the center and the sea beyond. Deck Above the Sea Up above the lobby and restaurant, there was another area that made me feel like I was on a ship. The Rooftop Bar, with 180-degree view of the ocean!
I love a roof bar, even if the roof is just 2 stories high! Don and I peeked around before Monday's storm and a friendly bartender (I presume) invited us to pose for a photo. It was fun to have a little roof-time, at different times of day. It was nice to see a few more guests on Tuesday evening. Again, I'm sure this place will never be this quiet again, once locals and tourists start hearing more about it! Dinner/Drink Options For being a hotel with only 61 rooms, there were lots of food and drink choices. The images below show poolside dining and the lobby bar. "The Den", across from the lobby desk had wonderful seating where hotel and local guests could drink cocktails or share a meal. (click above images to enlarge) The Den On Monday evening, The Den area was nearly empty except for about 8 young local women, who appeared to be meeting up for drinks after work. Don and ordered drinks and food from the lobby bar. We had lots of options for seating.
We found a cozy corner, next to a fun retro louvered wall. We shared a Cowboy Cobb Salad and an order of Fries for our simple dinner. Delicious! Gilbert and Luis Staying on a quiet Monday, meant Don and I got to enjoy a little time chatting with Luis and our bartender Gilbert. We were impressed to realize how much went into creating the daily playlist of music in the common areas.  The music was incredibly varied and so often felt like it was chosen just for us. (just lucky I'm sure!) We were impressed to hear the owner puts this music together himself. The volume and music styles change throughout the day, depending on the time and the number of guests. "Fine-ish" Dining at The Fancy! We were so glad The Fancy was open on Tuesday night. I'd read wonderful things about the chef who created the "fancy comfort food, with a French twist"!  When we arrived for our reservations, I chuckled with the host about the wonderful name. I told her, "I know someone with a dog named Fancy!" She one-upped me, " I know a grandmother named Fancy!" The evening sun lit the comfy dining space at 7.  The bar looked lovely with its white and blue tile and line up of comfy stools.  I admired the tiny flower vase and studied the menu.
I knew in a moment I would order the Heritage Roast Chicken, with dumplings and brown butter demi sauce! I can't even describe the flavors! I was so tempted to pick my bowl up and drink the sauce when I finished! Before our food came, our dining neighbors spotted me taking a photo of Don.  The woman insisted on taking a photo of both of us. She teased and snapped about 10! So, after 2 days of interacting with chatty employees, we finally had a fun encounter with other guests! A wonderful meal in a friendly setting! Beach Location Our best hotel experiences have to do with location. If we can walk somewhere fun, it adds so much to the stay  The photo above shows The Lucine before 7 am, when I returned from a walk to the beach. Above are photos from that morning. What a bonus to have the Gulf of Mexico across the street! What's Notable? This fabulous little gem at the northeast end of the island, was a fun mix of fancy and hip.  The building was spiffed up without losing that retro charm that I love. The Lucine did an amazing job of getting rid of the ugly parts... tacky doors and chairs!  And keeping the good stuff, like the fun roofline! The pool is new, but they kept the appealing U-shaped courtyard design.  We didn't need to leave the property at all. The pool was inviting and the food & drink was outstanding!
I have to say, the nicest surprise of all was that Don and I didn't feel like oldsters in a hipster hotel. We usually pretty much go with the flow wherever we are, but we've experienced a few "too cool for school" settings, where young staff appeared to cringe at the Boomers walking in the door. I must say that every single staff member at Lucine was gracious and friendly! I'm eager to return! Dixie? I do love a vintage motel! I adore a cool vintage sign! I'm less excited about things named Dixie. But I made an exception here.  I'm not just being woke. There are a few reasons I don't embrace the word, but mostly it's because I was teased for being a Yankee, when I moved south at age 10. Teased by kids who liked to belt out "Dixie"! Dixie Motel from 1951 I booked a night at Dixie Motel, after learning about its history. The old motor court motel opened 73 years ago. I was excited when I laid eyes on the faded sign, last March.  The history of the Dixie name, goes even further back than the fifties. Before the motel, Dixie Chicken Farms & Hatchery was located here. Near (or in) Brenham, Texas This 1950's postcard, tells us the motel is located "one mile west of Brenham".  On the back of the card, printed words describe the motel as a "Home of the Traveling Public". Funny how the roadside "home" appears to sit all alone, right next to Highway 290. In Town On a drizzly day last March, Don and I followed Google Maps down Main Street, (US 290) through Brenham. Just 60 miles from our home.
The motel is now IN town. Barely. We spotted the old sign just on the outskirts of town. We turned left on Drumm Road, into a neighborhood of small houses. The Property It was amusing to realize all the houses grew up around the motel.  The recently renovated buildings now sit on a tidy gravel drive. The porches look towards the modest neighborhood homes. Behind the motel, there's a 2-acre field of trees. Mr. Drumm and Chickens When we turned onto Drumm Street near the sign, I didn't realize Drumm was the name of the man who built the motel in 1951  Long before the motel, Jack Drumm started up a poultry and hatchery business, on this property. The photo above is from 1930, when he filled a plane with 8,000 baby chicks headed for Mexico City. Motel Adventure with Friends! I've written up a lot of MOTEL adventures, in the 90-Nights blog. Don and I have experienced some curious and some creepy motels. Ordinarily we wouldn't have felt comfortable inviting anyone to join us, for an overnight at a poultry farm/motel, tucked into a small-town, Texas neighborhood.  However, our friends Lorrie and John were game, for a couple reasons. First of all, we 4 had a wedding to attend nearby. More importantly, we'd all read excellent reviews. We met for lunch in Brenham and headed out a mile to the motel! No Vacancy As we headed towards the office, I spotted the NO Vacancy sign. I was glad we'd booked 2 of the 8 rooms, months earlier! I was especially excited to meet the owners Karl and Sarah. I'd read up and knew they purchased the worn out property in 2014.  Since then, they've thrown themselves into redesigning the Dixie Motel. In Progress The other thing that I was incredibly enthused about, was seeing the old building in back. It's still in the process of being renovated.  Actually reinvented is the word the owners use. They have kept the original floor plans, but gutted and improved in numerous ways.  How often do you get to stand back and enjoy the before/after images? I usually do that with photos. I was so afraid when I booked months earlier that they would move too quickly and I'd miss seeing the oldie. No worries! Sarah and Karl I'm so pleased we were able to meet both Sarah and Karl and hear some of the stories about about their 10-year project.  Both have a great affection for motels. They were married in a motel near Big Bend National Park. Music and Antiques Sarah is the one responsible for the large album collection, found in the lobby and guest rooms.
Sarah also knows her antiques and vintage furniture. She is connected to the nearby Round Top Antiques Fair. Since opening the motel 3 years ago, the rooms have booked quickly around the fall and spring antique fairs. Questions for Karl Karl was wonderful, answering my endless questions. I wanted to know what that funny little covered space was, near the office door.  I peeked in earlier and noticed the window, opening to the office. Previous Owners Karl explained in the kindest way, how the motel was in disrepair when they purchased from Mrs. Patel, a decade ago. She and her husband raised their daughters, while living (in) and running the motel.  Mrs.Patel was widowed and running the motel by herself when they purchased in 2014. Karl suggested the window could have been a safer way to receive payment from guests. He spoke sympathetically of how Mrs. Patel had struggled to deal with long term guests who didn't pay rent. There was good reason she had no time to keep up with repairs. Hints of the Past I loved that the old room keys were still sitting there, in the key boxes.
I think Karl said the buzzer system was installed to alert guests about phone messages. Maybe I got that wrong.  I wonder if there were actually 20 rooms back in the day? Around Back Karl took us through a breezeway to the back of the property, where we could see picnic tables and a fire pit. We also could see the sweet old building, awaiting renovation.  The sight of an empty building might be too eerie for some. I find it just fascinating and it was one of the reasons I wanted to book a night.  There's good reason it's taking so many years to get all the structures rebuilt. Karl (who happens to be an engineer) has taken on much of the rebuilding tasks himself, from electrical work to furniture building... with repurposed wood! Outside Area The weather was not ideal and we had limited time, or we could have enjoyed some of the outside seating.  I should have asked about all the green space, past the buildings. I assume this open land was part the original poultry business property. Mini Billboards Karl pointed out the yellow metal sign, on the fence.  He said a few signs have surfaced over the years. They used to be attached to fences along the roads. I wonder if they used to have a number painted in the space, before the word Miles? Breakfast Room Karl showed us the recently enlarged Breakfast Room, where we would come the next morning for a continental breakfast.
He pointed out the Starbucks Iced Coffee and the Topo Chico Ranch Water. There were 2 beer options. Mama Tried and Killin Time. Too bad we had so little time! Dixie Water Before heading to our room, we passed a filtered water dispenser in the breezeway.  We were each gifted a metal water bottle, with a picture of the iconic motel sign. How fun is that? Room 2 We had about an hour to get ready for the wedding.  No time to sit on our little porch with a couple of Ranch Waters, Old "Porch" As you can see, the old "porches" were different. Karl and Sarah have made some positive changes.  They kept the floor plan, but changed the "porch" and roof covering. Comfy Queen Room Roadside motels in the fifties were usually on the small side. The width didn't allow for much more than our queen bed and soft chair. There was enough wall space for 3 framed nice photographs, showing images of the Texas Big Bend area.  The cozy and spotless room really had all we needed. I got the lamp and Don got the chair and ottoman. The chair actually had its own little swag lamp! Nice vintage touch! Stuff! We had a lot of goodies that guests didn't have in 1951. We had a 50-inch flatscreen and a garment steamer in the closet.  There was a retro mini fridge with organic whole milk.  We had a tea kettle and a set-up for pour over coffee. Bathroom The bathroom was as small as the original, but the new version made the absolute best use of space!  The shower was tiny, but lovely.
We didn't have any colorful shower tiles... but I found this classic look inside the old building! Music in the Room I provided a little background music to entertain us, while we got dressed for the wedding.  Each room had a portable record player and a case of LPs! I grabbed a couple of my old favorites, Loggins & Messina and Harry Chapin! Coffee and Reading I didn't have time until the next morning to use the bed tray for reading.
There was an article in the Texas Highways magazine, that featured Dixie Motel! Posing Time We posed for photos before heading off.
The photo of Don and me, shows off the raked gravel, as well as the much improved roof! It wasn't raining at that moment, but we would have stayed dry if it had been! Late The little motel looked so inviting when we returned late that night.  Wind was blowing and skies were eerie, but the rain held off until I had a good visit to the back of the property! Appreciation of Old I look back now and wish the 4 of us had stayed up a little later and sat under the strings of lights.  We could have enjoyed a beverage from the Breakfast Room fridge and admired the 73-year-old building, in its weathered state.  I can't begin to say how much I appreciated the spotlights on (and in) this curious old structure.  It was hard to imagine these rooms with shag carpet! I wonder what was easier to remove, the carpet or layers of wallpaper and paint. How fun to discover the yellow letters on the wood!  I stepped inside just long enough to snap two photos. It was surprising how clean the space was. I'm sure it would have been less pleasant standing in one of the rooms before they were gutted. Morning It stormed all night and we had a fresh morning with sun!
We made a little coffee in the room before heading to breakfast. Blue Skies It was fun to see the motel on a sunny morning!      It was almost warm enough to eat outside. Country Breakfast As we stepped inside, my thoughts went back to the chicken farm days. A homey rustic table, was set up with breads and fruit and a bowl of eggs.  I believe this is one of the tables made by Karl. Fresh O.J. It was fun making our own o.j. for breakfast.  I forget how many oranges it takes to make a cup! Old Fridge I wonder how far back this Deluxe fridge goes? Don grabbed a yogurt.  I could definitely picture Mr Drumm having one of these on his chicken farm in the '40s or '50s. Time to Eat We had the breakfast room, with its wagon wheel fixture, all to ourselves.  John humored me by following my suggestion to tuck his napkin into his shirt. Farmer style? I can't remember what that was about.  I enjoyed my little meal of English muffin, egg and granola with fruit. Just the right amount, before we had to hit the road. What's Notable? Our stay at the renovated Dixie Motel was unique. It wasn't a muliti-million-dollar mega hotel renovation. It wasn't a Mom & Pop slap on some new paint B&B project. We stayed at a vintage motel with a fun history, remodeled by a smart, creative and hardworking couple. And I so appreciate meeting our hosts, in this day of contactless hotels and rentals!  I will remember enjoying our comfortable stay, but I've made it clear how much I loved the old building in back! I can't thank Karl and Sarah enough for taking on this little corner of history in Texas! And allowing guests to peek at the progress, made me truly appreciate the work that goes into preservation.
I hope Mrs. Patel can come back and enjoy being a guest sometime! I'm sure she'd have some stories to tell! A Night in Napa Most visit Napa to sample the wine.  Don and I visited for one night last winter. I was more excited about the hotel than the wine. Rain! It was dark and rainy, when we arrived last January. The wind was whipping us to pieces as we unloaded. The flags in my photo don't exactly show that... since I took the pics much later.  Don was ready to be done with the car, after hours of driving on winding, wet roads. Location Napa River Inn, had an ideal location. Perfect, unless you want to be in a charming inn, overlooking vineyards. Which I would love, on another day!  But it was a good time of year to stay right in the heart of the old downtown Riverfront District. The property backed right up to the Napa River! Historic Napa Mill I love a hotel building with a good history. Numerous buildings make up Napa River Inn. The oldest (1884) was used by Captain Albert Hatt, who ran a shipping and merchant business.  The photo above shows 2 parts of the historic building, with 3 sets of green doors. I love the old brick! Made from Napa River clay. Hatt Building 1884 The doors on far left, opened to the lobby. The 140-year-old-Hatt Building, once held offices and mercantile retail, that arrived by riverboat. The second floor held a grand rollerskating rink, used for fun and social affairs until 1930.
The doors on far right, opened to a stairway, which led to the upper level of of a structure built in 1886. This building provided more warehouse space for wine and spirits. Today, the upper floor holds some of the hotel's most luxurious rooms, that I can only dream of affording. Sweetie Pies The first floor space of the 1886 section, holds Sweetie Pies Bakery.  We had a wonderful breakfast there in the morning! Later,I learned something eerie about the space being these old doors... Napa Milling Company Behind the Hatt Buildings, we found the "newer" part of the historic complex. In 1912, the Hatt/Mill was sold to Robert Keig, who removed some buildings and added others. The grain silos came a little later.  The Keig Family operated the mill until it closed in 1973. Today there's a beautiful mosaic fountain at the base of one. I have no idea what's inside! Early Check In Dark skies made it seem later than 2:30 pm, when we arrived. We kept fingers crossed that our room might be available early.  The cafe tables looked damp but still inviting. Iron Shutters I peeked into the lobby, through a pretty narrow window.  Those heavy green shutters looked like they were designed for a fortress! Welcome to Napa River Inn Don and I approached the doors and wondered if Kona and Lucky had arrived. We saw the greeting near the tiny dog house and water dispenser.  Before we reached the welcome mat, a very friendly young bellman named Rhett, opened the doors. Lobby Rhett took our bags, while we checked in. I looked around and admired the Victorian decor, with pink settee and chandelier.  I doubt this useful space held fancy things, 140 years ago. Deluxe remodels always make it hard to determine what was original. Maybe those red columns? Warm and Formal I was drawn to the warm fire first, then to the framed photos and articles displayed on the walls.  Besides old photos and prints of Napa and the mill, there were a few memorabilia items on display. Feed Sacs These burlap sacs were used in the 20th century, by Napa Milling Company. They likely held feed for farm animals.  These sacs reminded me of the flour sacs, that my family still owns. Ours came from my great great-grandfather's Meyer Milling Company, in Springfield, Missouri. Family Businesses Captain Hatt (in gold frame) sailed the seas for many years before settling in with his family in Napa.
The photo of my dad's bearded great-grandfather, looks similar to the Captain with his mustache. Both were prosperous men, in the late 1800s. Both had sons involved in the mill business. Albert Hatt Jr. There was also a photo of Albert Hatt, Jr. on display in the lobby. After reading more history, I was sad as I studied his face in my photo. When was the photo was taken? After his mother died in 1906?  He was a widower and father of 5, when he took over the mill for his father. I read that he tried hard to please his father and support his family. Eventually health issues and business troubles became too much. In 1912, he took his own life at the age of 46. Sad Usually my Notable Night write ups are about the fun and funny things I notice or experience.  I'm guessing most guests at Napa River Inn aren't focused on the history of the Hatt building or the sad stories of the Hatt family. I could have left this out. But I only have more appreciation for the preservation of this complex and the stories as well. Historic Building It was pouring (unlike photo) when Rhett gave us umbrellas and rolled our luggage cart to The Plaza building.  I hated knowing we weren't staying in one of the historic buildings. This building is mostly (if not all) new. It was constructed where one of the original warehouses had been. I convinced myself I we were staying "in" an old warehouse, when I spotted old brick in the lower portion.  We had a bonus with our new-ish hotel building. It was located towards the back, near the river... and there was a very delightful octopus resting nearby on the plaza! Cozy Room 223 The elevator and hall felt a little like Holiday Inn Express. But our long and narrow room was a piece of heaven.  Before taxes our room was around $250. That's a cheap as you can get at Napa River Inn. We were happy to afford a stay at all. Rhett Butler Rhett was chatty and gracious as he put our bags on luggage stands and introduced us to our room. I asked about his name and he was indeed named for the character in Gone with the Wind.  Rhett showed us how to work the heat and TV. (not always obvious!) And we chatted more about names. He laughed about how his parents loved names. He had more than 3 and they didn't always fit on forms. And he had a sister who also had a movie character name. Yes... Scarlet. Balcony Rhett was very excited to open our balcony door and show us the courtyard below. The dark rainy day meant we could see the illuminated arches over the walkway, "It's the most photographed scene in Napa." He explained.
Looking left from our metal balcony, I could see 2 silos! A silo view! The shiny green roof belonged to Celadon, one of hotel's restaurants. Rhett described all the dining options, but said Celadon was his favorite. Rhett From Napa Rhett pointed out the Kuerig coffee maker and offered to get ice for our bucket. I commented on the 3 beautiful vineyard photographs. When we found out Rhett was raised in Napa, Don laughed and said, "You probably know a lot more about wine than us."
Rhett smiled and claimed he didn't, but he would before long, since he was turning 21 soon. I'll bet Rhett makes his parents proud. What a nice guy. We saw him about 5 more times that day, when we were wandering about. Luxury On a rainy afternoon I was tempted to fill the tub with some of their lovely bath products. The Chardonnay lotion was heavenly!  I could have curled up in a robe and read a book while the rain poured down on the metal roof. But, we had 2 sturdy hotel umbrellas and I was too excited to wander. River Bend Performance Plaza This soggy view from a window near the elevator, might be a gloomy disappointment to some.  But ignorance is bliss! I've never seen this patio area alive with wine- drinking diners and music and sunshine, so I hardly knew what I was missing. Rainy Walkway It was fun to walk around with a big umbrella and take in the scenery without crowds of tourists.  In this view of the walkway, you can see our balcony on the left. Dinner? Don and I checked out our dinner options while we wandered. Celadon's dining patio was just inside the massive iron doors.
We studied the menu a little further down. "Global comfort food... Local's favorite..." The Fink! Rhett wasn't 21, but he knew about the newly opened cocktail parlor!  He'd heard good things about it, so we gave it a try.
It seems kind of silly to drink cocktails in Napa. But we did and we enjoyed out Distinct Cocktails! Angele Restaurant We wandered down near the river earlier and made dinner reservations in this sweet yellow building. The concrete building looked mid-century modern at a glance.
The 1-story building was actually constructed by Captain Hatt in 1893, with an accompanying wharf.
Today, Instead of storing agricultural chemicals, the building stores ingredients for their French menu, until guests order wonderful foods like Mussels and Boeuf Bourguignon! Perfect! Wandering Post Dinner It didn't take long to get used to the idea that we needed coats and umbrellas to wander. The kid in me enjoys an umbrella, so it was fun.
We wandered after dinner and the plaza looked festive with the illuminated octopus. The courtyard walkway was glowing with wet reflections! Last View Before turning in, I had to have one last peek at the lit up courtyard.
The sound of rain lulled us to sleep! Morning There were hints of blue when we woke the next day. We showered and headed to Sweetie Pies.  We used both our 10-dollar vouchers, given to hotel guests. It was cozy and warm and sweet smelling inside the bakery.
I ordered the egg sandwich with fruit. Don loved his huge apple & almond pastry, beneath a photo of Brandi Carlile. Hearts for A Hatt Jr. I guess I'm glad I didn't know about Albert Hatt Jr. that morning, when we had our freshly baked breakfast. It was within this space, that the Captain's son was found after he'd hung himself from a beam.  I guess that's rude of me to even share this in a blog. But when I see these photos drenched in Valentine hearts... I like to think they were for him. Alan Shepp's Mosaic Fountain After breakfast, Don and I explored without umbrellas. The mosaics near the silo, were amazing.
It's hard to see in my photo, but there was water, cascading over the edge of this colorful fountain. It's easier to spot the mosaic river, spilling onto the pavement.  The mosaic scenes of the Napa area, were entertaining! Vineyards and river scenes. A beaver, train and a farmer... Good-bye River Don and I took a stroll down by the river. After a few days of rain the water was high and fast.
We headed back to our Plaza room and packed up. Off by 10:30 The sun was peeking out by the time our car crossed the bridge.  I could look back and see the hotel and silos. As we headed out of town, I grinned to see one more glimpse. The old mill was standing tall, over the nose of a Nappa Valley Wine Train.  It suddenly amused me that we spent the night in Napa, without a spotlight on wine. Sinful! We'll return. What's Notable? I've talked endlessly about the history of the buildings that make up Napa River Inn. I love that. Most guests don't come for that. I will always remember what I learned about the Hatt Family.  I'll always fondly remember our cozy stay, on a rainy January night. For some reason, the umbrellas and wet jackets added a fun sense of adventure. I'm all for exciting mega hotels (think cruise ship or Vegas) where all the shops and restaurants can be reached without stepping outside. But this collection of buildings and walkways felt like a hotel village. I enjoyed our little brick village, by the river!
Little House on the Coast It was a damp January day, when Don and I pulled up to this ivy-covered house in Mendocino County.  The day looked gloomy, but I couldn't have been more delighted to lay eyes on the curious house that I'd read about! On CA-1 We almost missed the turn, while winding south on the 2-lane highway.  The trees obscured our view of the property, perched high above the coast. I hollered, "Here!!" just in time. Don turned right and we could see the sweet yellow house right away. Dennen's Heritage House This New England style farmhouse was 72 years old, when Lauren (Don) and Hazel Dennen bought the property, in 1949.  Initially they opened it as more of a country inn, with a few guest rooms upstairs. Don worked on the property and Hazel cooked for guests. Eventually it was a sprawling resort on 37-acres. By 1960s The Dennens had lots of room to expand on their property. By 1963, the little resort was described as a quiet country inn. The restaurant was popular enough to be featured in the Ford Treasury Cookbook. This is the illustration that accompanied a recipe for pancakes.  The words below the image mention a history with smugglers! I believe this may have been during prohibition, before the Dennens owned the property. Since 1877 As we moved towards the house, I noticed the reminder above the red door. "Built in 1877 AD" (love the AD)  The carpenter who actually built this farmhouse for the first owner, was John Dennen. J Dennen was Don's grandfather. So there's good reason for the pride behind that date. Hazel's Bell To the left of the door, I noticed a bell, standing on a twisty arrangement of bricks.  Words on the plaque read, "Founder Hazel Dennen rang this bell to signify the start of the dinner hour at 5:00 every day" "Lobby" We stepped inside the yellow house and found the registration desk and some freshly baked cookies.  There were a few chairs and pieces of art. I asked Nancy at the desk, if the fireplace was original. She said that wall of the lobby, was actually an addition. Heritage House is all about additions!  I took a look at some of the framed photos and art, displayed on the mantel. It became clear, the Dennens of my cookbook, no longer have the spotlight. The Dennen family ownership ended in 1998. Alan Alda & Ellen Burstyn It's been 46 years, since these familiar faces filmed scenes on this property. There's still a spotlight on these 2 stars who spent a good deal of time here, filming in 1978.  I remember seeing the movie "Same Time, Next Year" when I was a college student, in '78. Alan and Ellen played characters, who had an affair spanning 25 years. Funny that I don't remember audiences really frowning at the morality of this. Maybe they did?  The movie story begins in 1952, when the characters meet at the cozy resort on the Pacific. After hitting it off, they meet once a year, staying in one of the inn's cottages, overlooking the ocean. The front Dennen's farmhouse is only shown briefly in the movie. An interior restaurant scene, exterior cottage scenes and stunning Pacific views, were all captured at Heritage House. The Sprawling Grounds This watercolor image was also displayed above the mantel.  It gives an idea of how much the Dennen's resort expanded over the years.  Both my photo and the painting, show the sprawling additions on the hill, Numerous cottages overlooking the water are out of view. Behind the House All the yellow structures were gradually added, behind the house.  The same barn that is shown in the cookbook illustration, is the tallest building in this photo. Endless Space The entrance to that collection of additions, (within yellow buildings) was to the left of the reception desk. Don and I explored the curious area... sort of a maze of common areas.  When did the Dennens begin expanding so dramatically? All the windows in the distance made me feel like I was looking towards dressing room mirrors. Infinity mirrors! Skylight My eyes were drawn to the painted dome in the center of the room. New owners (after the Dennens) decided to close up the skylight. The circular dome played tricks on my eyes. It is not tilting or oval shaped, like my photo.  I wanted to see the place filled with guests, in the 1970s maybe. How did this room look on a sunny day? Pacific View Don and I wandered past the couch and piano and looked into a couple dining/sitting areas. So many windows! I tried to imagine the spectacular view at sunset, without clouds.  The wind was howling outside and whistling through some of the windows.  We stepped to a different level and took in another view. There were stools and chessboard tables. Were there games somewhere? I craved a fireplace and a book.  I felt a blast of damp air, when I opened the door to the deck. Again, I tried to imagine it not being January. 5200 Lounge and Restaurant At the end of the maze, we found the lounge and restaurant, named for the inn's address on Hwy 1. I peeked through the glass window, looking into the locked lounge.  I imagined the bar hopping with guests 50+ years ago. I'd read that Don Dennen often tended bar. Sometimes he allowed guests to make their own drinks, when he needed to wait on tables. The Dining Room Nancy left the front desk for a bit and let us go in and have a peek at the closed dining room. It was frustrating being there on a night when it was closed.  But what fun to see the fireplace that's shown in one of the movie scenes.  The fireplace looks a lot larger in the movie pic, but it's the same one. Odd how angles and perspective can change things! Chatting with Nancy Nancy couldn't have been a better host. She was so appreciative of the Heritage House history. Nancy started working at the resort 3 years ago, but her memories go back to her childhood. Her dad worked on landscaping at the resort and she often came along with him to the property.
I showed Nancy the old cookbook and the illustration. She's not old enough to be as amused as me by a quirky 61 year old cookbook. But she was intrigued with the vintage image and recipes. I didn't exactly explain that we actually chose this hotel, because we found it in the cookbook! More Wandering Nancy pointed us toward a couple halls and told us to be sure to check out the displays of art and antiques.  I was lost in the maze of additions. I kind of think the art hall, was within part of the old barn. Could be wrong! The Collections The Dennens were big collectors. Initially they furnished the rooms with antiques they collected.  Don and Hazel passed away in the '80's and their daughter eventually sold in 1998. New owners took over and made high dollar changes, creating a more ritzy resort, with less cozy charm. The Dennen's name was obviously removed and so were the treasures. Luckily some have returned to display cases in recent years. Finding Our Room Our off-season stay didn't offer perfect weather, but we did get an upgraded room.  We took a walkway near Hazel's bell. I chuckled as we passed by this brick walkway that went beneath an addition or two. I don't know why this assemblage of buildings just intrigued me so!  Such a crazy mix of styles and shapes! Some connected and some not. My arrow actually points more to our neighbor's glass door. But it gives an idea of where we were. Room 8 I would have loved a room in the original house. The older the funner, for me!
But when we stepped inside our (maybe 1970's) vintage cottage, I was happy to stay put! Perfect Retreat Our room for $235. was a bargain, even in winter.  Suddenly I didn't care about the gloomy weather. We had a gas fireplace that made the room cozy right away!  And we had glass doors, looking out towards the ocean.  We had a cloud-like king bed, even though we'd booked the cheapest room... with a queen.  And we actually had a phone and TV. The Dennens provided luxurious rooms, but they kept phones and TVs out. A huge number of their guests returned often and liked it that way. "Kitchen" Since we knew the restaurant would be closed, we brought our own food for dinner.  It was nice having the fridge and microwave and Nespresso machine. Also nice to close the cabinet doors and not look at it! Better Than Photo All these photos fail to capture the comfortable, classy feel of our room. The bathroom especially, was much nicer than the photo.  You can't see the generous size, or the impressive rainfall shower. You can't see the skylight, or feel the heated slate floors. See the Sea In this photo, you can see (barely) that we did indeed have an ocean view.  We could have gotten a Premier Ocean View Room for $700. but this was just fine!
Rain was predicted, so I made use of one of the Adirondack chairs, for a little bit. Wandering the Property Don and I were able to get out and wander the grounds before the storms.  There was no swimming pool on the grounds, but there were winding paths along the edge of the cliff... with crashing waves below! Much better! It was January, but we still saw some flowers.
I can only imagine what the grounds look like in the spring and summer. Same Time Next Year Cottage Nancy gave us a map, which helped. We were able to spot the cottage from the movie.  It looked a little different. The wood shingle siding is painted now. No shutters.  There also were no cars parked nearby! So we snooped around a bit.  The cottage is actually divided now. You can rent the "Same Time" room or the "Next Year" room. Both have a nice view. Slideshow On our walk, we discovered a gazebo and a gravestone, with both Dennen's names. "May the sea be your shelter" Nancy told us later that it was only a memorial. I believe their ashes were scattered in the Pacific. Settling In We returned to our room before the rains began.  Don made drinks and we watched the skies until it was too dark. We ate some amazing and sloppy sandwiches and chili, from a cute shop in Ft. Bragg.
Then I put on a plush robe and popped open my dessert! An ice cold bottle of Saranac 1888 Shirley Temple Pop! Well it wasn't so tasty. But it was fun and I didn't spill on my robe! Rain and Rain The rains howled all night. The sound was extra dramatic on the bathroom skylight. The sweet hum of the ceiling fan helped me sleep well.  I couldn't sleep past 6. It was so cozy with the rain, I made Nespresso and curled up on one of those white marshmallow chairs! Breakfast Buffet At 8, we took umbrellas and wandered up to the yellow house for complimentary breakfast. I took the old cookbook, in case anyone cared.  No other guests joined us for breakfast. Only a handful of the nearly 50 rooms/cottages had guests. They must have been sleeping in. Heritage House Hotcakes! As soon as we arrived, Louis appeared from the kitchen and greeted. As if awaiting our arrival, the heated dishes filled with eggs, potatoes and yes... pancakes!
We shared the book with Louis and later met the chef and gave him big compliments. I didn't complain that our hotcakes were not served with sour cream! That's an odd addition in the recipe! What a treat to have a delicious, freshly cooked breakfast, while watching rain gush through dozens of windows!
After finishing my coffee, I asked Nancy back in the lobby, if she'd slept at the desk! She laughed and promised no. Then she warned us about the weather. "When the rain and wind hits like this, I expect to hear a lot of sirens on the highway." We thanked her and adjusted our route before heading off! What's Notable? We stayed at a resort that began 75 years ago, with a cute house and hospitable hosts. Even though other owners have changed the look and vibe over the years, the Dennen family would probably like to know, I still felt the cozy charm. The family did own it for almost 50 of those years, after all!  The original house and its gorgeous setting, gave me the nostalgic country inn feel, that I wanted. The luxurious modern room offered even more comfort than expected. The kind staff, from Nancy to the maintenance guy, (who cut that big limb!) to the folks at breakfast, all made us feel incredibly welcome.
I hope we can return for a stay when the gardens are in full bloom! We'll need to save up for summer rates, though! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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