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Back in Grinnell! Last October, I stood in front of Hotel Grinnell, in my Grinnell College sweatshirt, grinning like a kid... after 2 notable nights!  I was happy to be back in the town, where I lived the first decade of my life. The Hotel Building I was happy about spending some time with 2 special people, in this old building, which became a hotel in 2016.  My older siblings spent a lot of time in this building, but I have few memories of it. That's surprising, since our home for a few years, was just a minute walk away. With My Sibs in 1967 In this photo I'm the one wearing a (smaller) Grinnell sweatshirt, standing between my older brother and sister. I was in 4th grade. Chris and Jenni were in high school and junior high. Little David hadn't started school.  Chris and Jenni have many memories of the building where I slept, last October. It was their school. Grinnell Junior High The bold structure that now houses the boutique hotel, was originally built as a junior high school in 1921.  Before my trip, I asked Jenni what she remembered. She recalled sitting in class and staring out enormous windows. (note the arched ones above the doors) Joanna and Debbie My family moved away after 4th grade and I never got to attend Grinnell Junior High. My friends Joanna and Debbie did! The photo below, shows the 3 of us in 1967. We look mighty proper and subdued!  The other photo was taken 56 years later, when the 3 of us reunited in Grinnell! Deb and Jo were my guides at the old school. School Memories Most of my school memories in Grinnell, involve this amazing building. I went to 2nd and 3rd grades at Cooper School. My buddies and I share interesting memories of strict teachers and dangerously fun playground equipment.  Oh what I would give, to step inside Cooper School one more time! But it became a parking lot, instead of a boutique hotel. A Friday in October On a Friday last October, Deb and I traveled in separate cars to meet up in Grinnell. (Jo would come the next day) I was excited and just a bit nervous about this meet up adventure.  I parked near the ivy covered building and headed towards the entrance, with automatic doors.  I had spoken with Debbie minutes earlier, when she called to say she had checked into the room. It was surreal to hear her voice! The last time we'd had a "sleepover" we were 10. The last time I'd heard Debbie's speak, it was when we were 18 and met up for an evening in St. Louis. Crazy that we planned the reunion through texts! Lobby I stepped inside the glass doors and took a deep breath. No smells of sassafras, like the cleaner that Mr. Smith (our janitor) used at Cooper School.  I'd read intriguing details about the renovation of this building. But mostly my brain was focused on the reunion ahead. I absorbed a few details quickly. I walked towards the giant "g", recognizing it from the sign in front. I would see many more of those gs during the stay.
I headed for the reception desk and absorbed the fun mix of old and new. The travertine floors and lighting fixtures over the desk, looked vintage. The refreshing wall garden looked very current.  I spoke with the woman at the desk and babbled something in my nervous voice, about meeting up with childhood friends. My words were too fast and she was too young, to grasp the importance of this exciting reunion. The host gave me directions to the room, just as a young man wheeled a bike out the door behind me.
I turned down the main hall and saw a lineup of more bikes. Complimentary hotel bikes! Just grab and ride when you like! I suddenly remembered my Red Schwinn, named Nelly. The nostalgia of it all! I passed a chalkboard and felt tempted to leave a message... but Deb was waiting.
 I passed some sitting spots with retro and trendy furniture. Modern-hip artwork decorated the walls. I'd read that Hotel Grinnell had 300 original pieces of art. No duplicates. Cheers With Debbie Debbie and I reunited in the third floor hallway. Nerves disappeared. It felt totally normal, hugging my childhood friend, even though we never hugged as kids!
We explored the building together and ended up with early happy hour drinks, in "The Periodic Table" lounge. Yum! Almost as tasty as the Kool-aid we drank from Dixie Cups as kids! Fun at School School was never this fun, when I was young! Our bartender Chad, (I think!) certainly helped make it fun. He whipped up our drinks and took pics with my phone.  Chad seemed genuinely impressed with the idea that the 3 of us would be were having a reunion, for the first time in 50+ years... and that Deb had gone to school in the building. Chad was young enough to be our grandson, but he didn't treat us like old grannies! Play! In the '60s, Debbie lived down the street from me, so we have a lot of memories of playing. Rollerskating, hopscotch, iceskating, Liddle Kiddle Dolls... dancing to the Monkees!  But we were too busy catching up to make use of all the "Play Space" surrounding us!  The renovated gathering areas were done so well! But why so empty on a Friday evening?  It turns out that Grinnell College was on fall break. That actually worked to our advantage.
If we'd had a few more days, maybe we would have taken full advantage of all the games. Skeeball... Scrabble... Shuffleboard! Scoreboard... Gymnasium The scoreboard decoration was a reminder that there was more to explore! The glowing board was relocated from the school's gymnasium.
I needed Guide Debbie to take me to the gym... which is now called The Ballroom and used for events.
If only I'd been wearing some old Ked's sneakers, I could have jumped and made echo-y squeaks on the original maple floors!
Debbie's memories kicked in when she set foot on the gym floor. She told me some stories about a certain (very mean) gym teacher, while she stepped on one of the original court lines, using it like a balance beam. I took a video of her comical impersonation of a junior high cheerleader, which I promptly texted to Joanna... so she'd know what kind of fun to expect! New Wing We left the gym and did some exploring outside.
I spotted probably the largest of all the gs. It was on the rounded structure which holds a stairwell. I believe this section of the hotel was added in the recent renovation.  There was a large patio off to the left, that would have been nice, on a warmer and less windy evening.  The sounds of pounding and blasting that we'd heard earlier had ceased. The workers on the roof were cleaning up for the day. I wonder if they'd been amused by the giant fried egg, on the far end of the building? The Auditorium There's only one part of the school that I actually do remember from childhood.  I once saw a production of South Pacific on this stage. I could be confused, but I think this auditorium, (as well as the gym) may have been part of the old original 1904 high school. The gym and theatre were saved when the school was later demolished. Up to Third Floor There was another set of stairs that we could climb to our third floor room. The terrazzo patterns were impressive.
Debbie told me a very embarrassing story of falling down these stairs. Everything is embarrassing in Junior High, but especially back in the days of mini skirts! Room 313 The hall was quiet. No bells ringing. No voices echoing. No lockers slamming.  Our room was at the end of the hall, up a few more stairs. The first thing I noticed was the soaring ceiling and the tall window! We were located right above the entrance.
Then I noticed Andy Warhol through the canopy bed. And a chalkboard on the wall. The iron furniture was created in Iowa, for Hotel Grinnell. There was a "g" cut right into the head board!  The room was a little smaller than I had hoped for and the little blue couch/bed was not as useable as we'd expected. But the high ceilings made the room feel more spacious. Stuff The rolled towels and iron shelf reminded me of something we might have seen in a vintage locker room. The coffee maker and water bottles reminded me it wasn't the 1960's.
I loved the "Not Now" tie, that served as a do not disturb sign. There was a desk in the corner, below a framed "ink blot". (very 1960's!) The desk looked nothing like the desks that I imagine once filled this room.
The goodies on the desk were fun. Our key cards were in a Hall Pass sleeve. A number 2 pencil and a report card allowed us to "grade" our stay. The Big Window The most impressive part of the room, was the window. I had an easy time imagining my sister daydreaming out this window.  Later that night, Debbie and I ended up spending a lot of time peeking through the glass, from our darkened room. It was around 9 pm when we heard some commotion below. It was coming from a very troubled man who seemed to be conversing loudly with some kind of wheeled cart, while his worried dog watched. It was a bit unsettling until Chad from the bar made call the police to do a check. Deb is a psych nurse and was concerned for the man who needed help not an arrest. Joanna Arrives The next day, Joanna arrived before lunch and we spent the day acting like we were 10 again.  At some point we kindly asked to borrow some extra ties, for a little photo shoot. Luckily Chad was back working the bar and was willing to be our photographer. Going to the Office For our second night we were able to get a room upgrade. Room 112 was much more spacious. I pulled out a pack of candy cigarettes (Thanks airport gift shop!) and we enjoyed some more posing, near the entrance of our new room.  Room 112 was located on the first floor, between the entrance and the reception desk. Jo and Deb recognized the location right away. "Yep! This is where the principal's office was!" Huge Improvement! Here are a few photos to show just how much more you get for an extra $20.! However when I checked out the next day, our kind host said the upgrade was complimentary.  We had the same great floors and canopy bed, but there was a sliding barn door for privacy. The door from the lobby opened to a black & white tile floor. Double sinks on one side and chalkboard on the other.
The toilet and shower had their own large room. The wooden bench reminded me again of a locker room.
I pondered the mystery spot on the wood floor. What had been removed from that part of the floor? Gathering Area Our little sitting area had a TV and a couch sleeper, that was much more useable than the one from the night before.
There was more colorful art on the walls. I especially liked the "shoe art" in the hall. Looks like colorful fish! Serious Discussion? I wish I'd captured some of the hysterics and laughter from our stay at Hotel Grinnell. Instead I snapped pics during quieter moments. This photo looks terribly serious!  We were probably talking about where to go to lunch, but it looks like Deb and Jo were disagreeing about something very serious... Like, No! Cherry is the best flavor of Tootsie Roll Pop!... or These salty Bugles taste awful now and they don't fit on fingers like they used to!"  Maybe the discussion had more intense questions. Was Mister Magoo a woke comic book? or, Is it a sin to pretend your Necco candies are Communion wafers? Old Photos Actually we didn't discuss those things, but we fiddled with silly puddy and talked about our kids and grandkids and even about politics. Thankfully we all are in agreement...  We gabbed and reminisced and looked at old Grinnell photos on the laptop, Most of the photos made us laugh or sigh. Some made us stop and ponder and try harder to remember details of the past. Exploring Campus The best remembering surfaced when we took off on foot, to explore the nearby campus, where my Dad taught and Jo's dad was president. We 3 knew the campus well.  As kids, we rode our bikes all over campus. We played in the grass and explored the buildings. It was incredible to wander and recall with friends, who shared memories. So many memories flooded back on that beautiful fall day. Downtown Hotel Grinnell's location was ideal. It was less than a minute walk to "downtown", where we 3 had more memories. I remember choosing boxed Halloween costumes, for sale at Ben Franklin's. At the Cunningham Drugs. (Now Merchants' Row) my doctor wrote our "ice cream prescriptions" on his pad, so we could have a treat at Cunningham's soda fountain!  Our hotel wasn't just close to downtown. It was only a minute walk to my first home that I remember, on Park Street. A few steps further was St. Mary's Catholic Church. I stared at the babies and the ladies hats, while our Father Kubrick did mass in Latin. I'm so grateful that I had some time to wander and swap stories with Debbie and Joanna. Back to the Periodic Table The bar was little livelier on Saturday evening. We spotted a few Halloween costumes and a curious and colorful assortment of liquids on the bar. There seemed to be an eyeball in the beaker!
We toasted with green eyeballs instead and ordered some tacos off the light menu. Then off for an evening drive and a visit with Joanna's step mom. Simple and lovely! Morning The 2-night stay went quickly. It was suddenly Sunday morning. We enjoyed a complimentary breakfast in The Periodic Table.
Jo and Deb had to hit the road pretty early. My plane was later, so I did some art on the chalkboard and took time packing up my rental car. Hotel Bike Check-out wasn't until noon, so I grabbed one of the bikes from the hall and took off to explore on my own.  I rode to my favorite park, then I rode down Summer Street and knocked on the door of my old house. It wasn't yellow anymore. Not sure what I would have said, had someone answered. But it gave me an excuse to stand on the porch where we kids once drank lemonade and played, "Kitty in the Corner"! Oh Summer Street! You were a good one! What's Notable? As I flew home that afternoon, I felt such a sense of satisfaction. I had combined a unique hotel stay with 2 special friends.
The playful, creative reinvention of this old school was just what we 3 needed to rediscover our own playful selves!  My memories will be more about friends and nostalgia, than luxury sheets and welcoming staff. That certainly helped though!
I would happily return or recommend this hotel to others. However it would be hard to duplicate the full package experience I enjoyed!
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Where? Last October, Don and I stayed in the modest little town of Perry. About an hour from Des Moines.  I found photos of Hotel Pattee on the internet. What was the story about this spiffed up little beauty, in small town Iowa? Why? Before heading on our trip, people kept asking the same question. "Why are you going on a road trip in Iowa?" The easy answer was, "Oh, I like Iowa. I used to live there." But that was 56 years ago. No family in Iowa now.  Mostly, Don and I just love simple, meandering-trips, driving on chill country roads. Iowa has a lot of them. The state also has a lot of very curious small towns, as well as historic inns that aren't expensive. Perry and Pattee seemed like a good combo. Flags and Canopy I was happy to see the flowers and waving flags welcoming us. The canopy added a bold city-look to the hotel.  I learned later that the ritzy canopy was actually removed in the 1960's, when the hotel became apartments. That happens... I'm glad it came back. The planters with healthy ferns, added a retro hotel feel.  And I loved the classy "HP", built into the bricks. "Hotel Pattee"? Harry Pattee I spotted more "HP" decor on the terra cotta floors, when we entered. Were the letters for Hotel Pattee or Harry Pattee?  Harry Pattee and his brother began building the hotel in honor of their father, in 1912. (Harry seems to be the name more associated with the hotel) Sadly, their dad died before the hotel's opening in 1913. 1913... Perry was a prosperous agricultural and railroad town, when the Pattee brothers decided to build. Seems odd that they sold the hotel less than a year after its opening. This is how the lobby looked in 1939 after quite a few owners and re-openings.  But by 1993, the hotel was in sad shape. Luckily, multimillionaire philanthropists, Roberta and Howard Ahmanson bought the hotel. Roberta had the needed passion, for rescuing an iconic hotel in the town where she grew up. Howard had the family money. They did an amazing top dollar renovation job. Re-Opened in 1997 After a massive remodeling the hotel reopened in 1997, with 40 theme-based guest rooms.  The only theme I could spot in the lobby and common areas, was an Arts and Crafts theme. Which isn't really a theme. That's just the decorative trend that was still popular in 1913.  When we arrived, we were welcomed by Gabby at the front desk. We were also greeted by Lopso the 3-legged pup, who was lounging on the carpet. Fireplaces and Art Don and I wandered the first floor common areas and were blown away by the quality of craftsmanship. The leather furniture and Persian rugs added a classy warmth.
I was drawn to the 2-sided stone fire-place, with artwork on both sides. Words on the Wall We spotted quotes stenciled throughout the hotel. Some words were thought provoking.  Some made me feel like I was at church.  The artwork throughout the hotel was quite impressive. From what I've since read, the Ahmansons are both passionate about the arts and religion. Artwork Supposedly there are 117 pieces on display, all from regional artists.  I liked some of the small town scenes. Much of the art reminded me of the the work of Iowa native Grant Wood. Wood actually created a lot more than the well known American Gothic couple. Louie in the Ballroom There was a huge mural in the Spring Valley Ballroom.  There was a lot going on in this mural. Louis Armstrong and his horn, is shown just above a circus tent. Evidently he stayed at Hotel Pattee long ago, when he was not welcomed in any of the Des Moines hotels. The Basement I was excited to get down to the basement level and find more artwork. I don't know the story about the funny floating lady, but she reminded me of a whimsical marionette.
Beneath the painting of a farmer, I saw a collection of doggy toys. Lopso's Story The toys of course belonged to the 3-legged hotel mascot, Lopso. He had a lot of toys and numerous lounging spots in the hotel.  Gabby at the desk, told me the story of Lospo. In 2020, the sweet pup belonged to a homeless man, who got into an issue with a man and his gun. Lopso ended up with more than bullet injuries, but was given good care by a local vet. Hotel Pattee became his new home, where he now has many fans. Arthur "Oley" Olson's Bowling Alley There were more fun surprises in the basement. The hotel has had a bowling alley since its opening in 1913.
The bowling alley was given a huge makeover and a new name, when the Ahmansons renovated 25+ years ago. They named the 2-lane bowling alley after Roberta's grandfather, who happened to be a champion bowler in the 1920s and 1930s. Chapel There seemed to be no end to my basement exploration. I found artwork and bowling options and doggy toys. I think there was possibly a fitness room, that I totally missed.  And I found a chapel, that wasn't exactly big enough for a hotel wedding. This was a tiny space with enough room for 4 praying people. I started thinking about some of the bible quotes and wondered if the hotel actually opened in 1913, with a chapel and stenciled bible verses. I don't know that I've ever stayed in a hotel with a chapel. I should have taken a seat (or kneeler) to ponder that. Up We Go The 3-story building had an elevator, but the marble stairs were so lovely.  When I'm not lugging suitcases, I always prefer stairs... especially when we're not on the top second floor.  With each climb, I admired the dramatic view of artwork and skylight. Sitting Areas There were comfy sitting areas on both guest floors. I loved spotting the horse sculpture out of one window!
The hall decor (along with the plaque outside of our room) was perfectly in touch with the Craftsman style. R.M. Harvey Room There were 40 themed rooms to chose from and I chose a room with a name that I didn't even recognize.  Don knew he had no say, about our room choice. I was too excited to pick the theme. It was a quick decision. Circus Room! I didn't really care who RM Harvey was. I just knew I wanted to be in the circus room.  I can't help it. I have a thing about circuses. This room just made me grin and clap like some kind of amused 2-year-old at the circus. It's embarrassing how entertained I was. Tiny Room with Lots of Stuff! I knew our room wasn't one of the large ones. But they squeezed in 2 rooms worth of colorful circus themed decor.
The walls were packed with photos and news clippings about R.M Harvey and his involvement with numerous Iowa circuses over 60 years.
There was lots to read above the desk and even in the bathroom! I didn't read it all, but I quickly learned Mr. Harvey was a business man, not a performer. If he'd been a lion tamer or trapeze guy, I'd have read every word. Colorful Accents My eyes got busy taking in every detail! Performing animals on the lampshade...
... a tidy little pillow and blanket set with lions and clowns, on a cozy red chair. The Big Picture I love a kitschy, themed room! Even if it's a little worn or dusty, like the Clown Motel in Nevada, I'm so easily amused. But honestly this dandy little circus room was spotless. It was 10 times cuter than the website photos.  Our queen bed fit neatly between 2 tables, holding circus animal lamps. (The horse and lion kept an eye on us!) Above the colorful pillows was a striped circus tent canopy! The ceiling light glowed through a clown hat. Love it! Spotlight on Details I was thoroughly impressed. The room was not decorated with random circus-theme decor purchased from a thrift shop or Kids-R-US. Every detail was thought out for adult circus fans.  Even the mural border surrounding the room, was entertaining with a lively circus scene. There was a ledge with extra lighting to enhance our viewing. Ta da! Quilt, Curtain and Dishes! I do love an old quilt! But I was happy to sleep under one that wasn't faded and musty smelling. This one had a tag saying a local quilt group had made it for the Circus Room in 2022. The colorful patchwork design made me think of the painted stands, that roaring lions sit upon, in the ring. And look at how the window curtains part, just like the opening of a circus tent. Then zoom in above the headboard to see the display of children's dishes. I looked for the china (with creepy clown faces) on Ebay and learned that the dishes were put out by Union Pacific RR! Not cheap! Popcorn in the Circus Room After looking out the window a moment, I noticed a wooden popcorn wagon, parked in front of the library across the street. Kids were stopping by on their way home from school, to buy a bag or 2.  I was inspired! I dashed downstairs and bought some popcorn, to enjoy in the circus room! "Tomfoolery Supreme" What a caption! And what good news, that Tom Mix and his horse Tony, "Will positively appear at each performance!"  I studied the fine vintage posters as I nibbled my popcorn. You just can't beat this Tom Mix circus poster, with a plate of pancakes and a winking clown holding Castor Oil! This would freak out a lot of people, but I chose this side of the bed, just to be near those pancakes! Happy Hour Don and I were excited to make use of the lounge and restaurant, just off the lobby. The classy Inter-Urban Lounge was a bit quiet, on a weeknight at 5:30.  The lounge was named for the electric train that used to take folks from Perry to Des Moines. The beautiful remodel was done in the style of Frank Lloyd Wright, who spent a lot of time in Iowa. Back in the Day I'm guessing this photo from Hotel Pattee, is from the 1940s or 1950's. No FLW Prairie Style in this bar.  I wonder if Mr. Wright ever visited Hotel Pattee? Wright actually designed a hotel in Mason City, Iowa around the same time Hotel Pattee opened. Wall of Photos While Don ordered us drinks, I glanced at the display of photographs.  The walls were covered in framed images of the town's railroad history. A few spotlights on Perry locals as well. Willis Library The lounge was eerily quiet, so we took our drinks to the library.  This cozy place with copper hooded fireplace, needed some appreciators. We moved right in! I liked the quote above the painting of the mysterious faceless farmer.  I studied the book selections and studied the vases and treasures, tucked into the shelves.  Don tried out one of the Mission Style rockers, resting on the lovely William Morris replica carpet. Ok, I didn't know the name William Morris. Had to look him up. Cheers! Don and I put the timer on the cell camera and had a quick toast.  It was the evening before our anniversary and our last night together in Iowa. Cheers to 44 years of crazy travels! Pattee Cafe And then there was dinner in the railroad themed restaurant! The Hostess Station/Ticket Booth delighted this theme-lover!  The hostess told me the train on the track above our heads, wasn't working at the moment. But it looked pretty festive anyway. Dining Room I snapped a photo of the empty dining room earlier, so I wouldn't annoy diners.  But at 7:30, there was no one to annoy in the dining room anyway. We had it to ourselves. We sat in a cozy booth, with seat cushions that made us feel like we were on an old train. Above us we enjoyed a mural of the Perry Train Station.  There were also painted images on the panels above our seats. My eyes couldn't stop wandering.  I looked across the tables and studied another mural from an earlier decade. I wish I could go back in time... Food! First we split a humongous Caesar salad with sliced egg... which was wonderful.  Then we devoured our entrees. Don's Cornmeal Sautéd Walleye Filet and my Chicken Parmesan were both over the top. It seemed impossible that we were getting this big city quality food, with small town prices. And where was everyone?
We had nothing but good things to say as we dined, but we found ourselves practically whispering. The place was so quiet. No music to muffle our voices as we discussed how bewildered we felt about the hotel. "How can this food be so good and cheap? How hard is it to keep a good chef in this town? How much did it cost to renovate, with such expensive materials and craftsmanship? How can the hotel like this even break even, with so few guests?" Night Time Luckily we stopped stressing and just enjoyed the feast and the hotel for the rest of the evening. I loved stepping out and seeing the hotel lit at night.
Soumas Court was also glowing, right next door. The hotel's art-filled outdoor gathering space, was lovely in the day and night. Around Town At night, I took a few photos of some of the lit up art installations, along the street. In the morning Don and I wandered the curious town. We spotted the train tracks that once made Perry so prosperous. A couple times we caught a whiff of the Tyson meat packing plant, that later brought jobs and new smells to Perry. Funny how it didn't bother me. It was just another piece of the Perry story. I felt drawn to the town. What's Notable? I've rambled way too long, so I'll be short. Hotel Pattee delights me! Perry intrigues me. The hotel's history and themed rooms are curious and fun. The fabulous top dollar renovations make the stay comfortable and classy.  I'm glad the city now plays a part in the ownership. (There were a few owners after the Ahmansons suddenly closed in 2006) Hopefully the hotel will never close again!
Update: Since I posted this piece, Perry has gained a spotlight in the news, that they never wanted. Learning of the horrific shooting at Perry High School was jolting and infuriating. My heart goes out to the residents of this special town. "The Grey House" Last October, Don and I and spent one night in a fabulous old house, just a few minutes from downtown Dubuque, Iowa.  The house named the Grey House, looked more brown to me. But the colors that really caught my eye, were all the yellows, greens, oranges and pinks, surrounding the home! Four Mounds The house is located within the 60-acre, Four Mounds Estate. Named for 4 conical burial mounds, located on the property.
When we arrived in mid October, the trees along the drive were just beginning to turn. The Burden's Home What a home! The grand house was constructed in 1908, by George and Viola Burden for their family. Their grand Craftsman style mansion was built, high on a bluff, with an unobstructed view of the Mississippi River. Picture no trees and bushes.  Today the impressive home is a Bed & Breakfast, with 7 guest rooms and lush grounds, plus the river view. It isn't the only overnight option at Four Mounds. There is another house, far across the lawn. The White House The White House was built in 1924, when the Burden's son married.  Bill and his wife Elizabeth raised three daughters in the Colonial Revival style home. Elizabeth remained there until 1982, when she died and left the entire estate to the city of Dubuque. Good Choice The two house styles were so different. When we pulled up to the entrance, I was delighted that we'd chosen the Grey House for our stay. There was something intriguing and mysterious about the house,  I wonder what kind of car the Burdens owned in 1925, when they pulled up to their new home. A Lincoln Model L Convertible Coupe? 1962 The Burdens only occupied the Great House until 1962. It's actually easier for me to picture the kind of car Mrs. Burden would have owned in the 1960's. Her chauffeur would have driven, right up to the Porte Couchere and seen her inside. Then he would have taken the car to the Chauffeur's House, which is still on the property.  The chauffeur probably didn't drive a blue Ford station wagon. That's what my family of 6 would have arrived in, if we'd been invited for a visit in 1962. It wouldn't have been too long of a drive from Grinnell. We could have brought our boxer and our cats to cheer Mrs. Burden, during her final year in the house. Oh my mind does wander when I see old houses! Arriving As Don and I unloaded, a fellow guest greeted us and offered to help carry bags. It suddenly felt more like a home than a hotel.
Rod was very chatty and eager to tell us all the highlights of the property. He followed us in, past the coat rack and umbrella holder and up a couple stairs.  I paused for a moment in the entry room. My eyes went straight to the window.  I took in the setting. Green grass, colorful trees and the Mississippi River... bird feeders, bird bath, hammock stand... heaven! The Kitchen Rod took me into the kitchen to meet our host, Dee. She was cutting up some veggies that would be served at breakfast the next day.  As she dried off her hands I looked at the beautiful cabinets filled with white dishes. (used at the events, held at Four Mounds) I was carrying a bag with our dinner for the evening. Dee offered to put it in the fridge. The Gathering Area Before Dee guided us upstairs to our room, I paused to peek at the comfy living room area.  The Craftsmen furniture matched the simple and practical style of the house. I read that Mr. Burden wanted to hire Frank Lloyd Wright to design the home, but Mrs. Burden said no. She didn't want to be restricted by Wright's rules of design. Architect Lawrence Buck was more flexible. Sunroom The living area led to a lovely sunroom, with large arched windows and plants.  I doubt the Burdens played cornhole in the 1920's! But, they might have looked out a telescope.  The brick floor probably kept the space nice and cool in the summer. In October, the room was getting chilly in the late afternoon. I pictured flickering logs in the fireplace. From the Outside When we first arrived, I noticed the windows with flower boxes, on the second story.  I didn't realize those upper windows belonged to the room we booked. Our suite was directly above the living room AND sunroom! A lot of space! The Landing The entrance to our spacious room faced the stairs and halls, which led to other guest rooms.  The landing area had a cushioned window seat, with another glorious view of river! Before Dee opened our door, we were suddenly greeted by 3 couples who were heading for the stairs.  What an enthused bunch! We all introduced ourselves and chatted about where we were from. Our inn seemed to attract interesting guests. Magestic River Suite Our sprawling suite did not disappoint. Weeks earlier, Don and I did some odd re-routing of our Iowa road trip, to land ourselves a night at Four Mounds, when the Magestic River Suite was available. The door knocker could have been creepy to some... but we were amused!
The old door opened to a hallway, with 2 windows and a closet. The windows on the left, looked out over the Mississippi!
We opened all the Venetian blinds! This was definitely the grandest of the 7 guest rooms.  Just like the living room below, our guest room had a fireplace and doors leading to a sunroom. The Sunroom My family's Iowa house didn't have air conditioning or a sleeping porch, but we did have a braided rug like this one, in our family room.  If only the weather had been a bit warmer, we could have opened every window and slept on the extra bed. I'm sure the Burdens used this room like a sleeping porch, on hot summer nights... long before air-conditioning. Furniture I loved all the rustic furniture!  Many of the National park lodges have "Old Hickory" furniture like this. Chairs I've always had a thing for curious chairs! The woven rocker was unusual and sort of comfy.
The very tall Stickley chair was less comfy, but just as intriguing. Chilly The spacious bedroom would have been glorious on a summer evening, with a breeze blowing through windows, on both sides of the bed.  But temperatures were dropping. We forgot to ask Dee before she went off duty, about the heat. Luckily we found a space heater that warmed things up. Surprises in the Bathroom There were only good surprises in the bathroom. I made use of one of the cozy robes hanging on the bathroom door. I made use of the triangular shelf, below the curious angled window! I wonder if that was designed to let in more light.
That clever window was interesting from the inside and the outside! Original! The sink and old medicine cabinet fit like a puzzle, into a funny corner! I loved the original hardware and built-in toothbrush and soap holders.   The subway tile looked pretty darn good, for being nearly a century old. It took a little figuring to get the water coming out of the shower head! Evening I wanted to stop the clock! There wasn't time to sit and read in the sunroom, for more than a minute. We only had one evening.  We saved books for later and got out to explore the grounds, while there was light! The Property We were only able to explore a small portion of the property.  There was quite a lawn between the two houses! I imagine there were some entertaining croquet games, back in the day. Landscape The landscape around the lawn was varied and intriguing.  In photos from 1925, there was very little in the way of trees and flowers. The Burdens worked hard to create the nature that we get to enjoy today. Trees & Leaves As we stopped to look at the fall colors, I was reminded of the huge maple trees near my childhood home in Iowa. I remember collecting leaves as a kid, then ironing my treasures between pieces of waxed paper! Do people do that anymore?
Don and I don't get to see colors like this in Houston! Gentleman's Farm After the Burden's built their home, they created a Gentleman's Farm on the property. (Think farming for pleasure, not profit.) There are 17 buildings on the property today, but we only saw a few. We saw the children's playhouse, a screened house, a pump house, a fun swing-seat and a garden, with squash and tomatoes and flowers. Chairs for Viewing And then there was this wonderful line up of Adirondack chairs, just waiting for us.  After all the socializing when we arrived, we expected to share these chairs!  But Don made drinks and we had the green chairs and river view to ourselves.  We watched the light change as the sun broke through the clouds. We saw a flock of geese startle and fly off at once. What a show! House to Ourselves When weather got too chilly for us, we moved to the living room and expected to see other guests.  But they'd all gone into town for dinner. We had the place to ourselves. I should have taken advantage and played the piano in the corner! Dinner is Served After a bit, we grabbed our deli dinner from the fridge and headed upstairs to our sitting area, near our own fireplace. Very similar to what was right below us.  I wish the fireplace had been a working one! But our space heater did a nice job warming up our room. Morning Before heading to bed we decided to keep the blinds up in the sunroom. Didn't want to sleep too long and miss the view!  I woke before 6 and dashed to the chilly room-of-windows to check out the view!  The sun wasn't quite up. I grabbed a blanket and cozied up for a while, on the "Old Hickory" with ottoman. Breakfast! We headed down for breakfast at 9.  Dee had a nice spread of food waiting, near the bottom of the stairs.  Eggs, bacon, toast and grilled veggies. Probably from the garden! Chatting By the Fire Don and I joined 2 other couples at a table near the toasty fireplace! My photo doesn't capture the fire, or the happy gabbing of our group of 6. Instead, it looks just like what B&B Haters complain about... awkward table sharing.  It was a tasty and social meal. It's always fun to swap stories, with others who love travel adventures. There was talk about train travel and river cruises and shared tips about discoveries we'd all made while exploring nearby Dubuque! Out by 11 It was hard to pack up and leave, seeing the blue skies.  Don and I did a rare selfie, to remember our stay!  I raced out to get one more photo, with a totally blue sky.  I sighed to think we couldn't linger another day and enjoy lunch or a good book on the patio.  I looked up one more time at our suite windows, right above the patio. I chuckled as I recalled a guest reminding us at breakfast, that the patio gets a lot of use in the summer. Evidently sleeping in the sunroom with open windows, can get noisy on warm nights. Maybe I'd be okay with that. It would remind me of being a kid in bed, drifting off to sleep with sounds of my parents' party downstairs! Our stay seemed to make me nostalgic for my Iowa childhood! What's Notable We spent a night in a grand home, that sits high on a bluff above the Mississippi River. We had window views looking out in 3 directions, over property that had been a Gentleman's Farm. (a term I didn't even know until recently)  The building itself was beautifully kept, with tasteful furniture and decor that fit perfectly. And I LOVED our suite! Charming, cozy, spacious, comfy and peaceful... on a weeknight in October!
I would definitely like to stay again! Coolness in Iowa City This is where we stayed in October 2023, on our Iowa road trip!  The Hotel is still named The Highlander, but the sign from the 1960's is gone! "Urban Resort" The 2023 version of The Highlander looks a little different.
The hotel calls itself an Urban Resort now. "Where modern elegance meets timeless charm". The 2-story motel on 90 acres, didn't exactly look urban or elegant, from the highway. Grand Entrance Walking up from the massive parking lot, I was a little amused by this dated entrance.  I knew the hotel had been renovated in 2020-2022, but I wasn't too impressed yet... Elegant! Suddenly I stepped inside and the word elegant fit much better.  I loved the glam-modern, velvet chairs and dramatic light fixtures. And what a fabulous flower arrangement! Chic Boutique The mod art in the Lobby check-in area, took me back to the sixties.  But the casual "greeting tables" with computers, reminded me that it was 2023. Lamps and LPs I spotted a couple of lava lamps...
And there were boxes with collections of old records!  The albums weren't just for show. There was a little turntable between the blue chairs. I could have played some tunes, while I waited for someone to arrive and check us in. Halls The hallways were impressive! The wall decor was splashy and bright.
The floors were worth a look! All clean and bright and varied. Peace! We were given "wristband keys" that magically opened our door. Just a tap with the plastic rectangle (showing a hand making a peace sign) Voila! Door open! The host said we didn't really need to wear the bands around the hotel, but maybe that was because we looked like old fogies and not wild party people! I think it might get rowdy at this cool place, on weekends.
I loved the wooden peace sign that dangled on the door, instead of a Do Not Disturb card. I wonder how many of those disappear, when younger and wilder guests stay? Room 113 The poolside rooms were more expensive, so we went for a room opening to the courtyard.  Our room location was perfect, with glass doors opening to our own corner patio.  Our own little sitting looked out over the yard. The huge glass doors to the pool, were just to the left. I stepped out in the late afternoon and had the whole area to myself.  As I wandered, I made my daily call to my Dad. I told him about the curious hotel and I chuckled with him as I moved chess pieces around the big board. "I don't remember when I last played chess!"I told him. We talked about chess and we talked about Iowa. The year The Highlander opened, our family was living 2 hours away in Grinnell. Mod Seating Back in the room, I was happy to have a little sitting area. I'm not sure what this room looked like in 2019, before Angela Harrington bought the dated hotel and invested nearly 10 million to renovate.  I'm glad she chose to spotlight the mid century modern era. There were a few hints of the 21st century. The recycling trash can!  The black refrigerator and sleek paper towel dispenser were nice updates. The inlaid desk top and TV weren't so bad either.  No complaints with the bathroom. Vintage black "Chicklet" tiles, beach-y subway tile and a gigantic shower head! I guess I could gripe about the frosted glass in the door... that let light into the room, when I showered early. Wandering On a Tuesday in October, we didn't bump into any guests when we went exploring.  The swanky bar closest to the lobby, wasn't open that evening. Too bad, because I was eager to have a seat on one of those comfy blue stools, next to the puffy-padded wall! So retro clubby! Expressing Ourselves We found some even comfier seating. The rounded pink couch looked heavenly.
But we didn't have time to sit. We had work to do.  I couldn't photograph Don's fine artwork, because he put it was too high. It's pretty obvious who used the neon yellow pen on the right side of the board! Peace Again Long before I was a teen, I remember saying "Peace!" with 2 fingers. I mimicked the hippies and protesters I saw in the news, long before I knew what it meant.  I was much older than a teenager when I realized my own parents might have mimicked Winston Churchill, making a V for Victory, during WWII! We Need Friends! We wandered through more sitting areas, admiring all the framed album covers on the wall.  There was James Taylor looking down from the wall. I probably never listened to him until the 1970's. But I do remember Joan Baez from the sixties. She was evidently a guest at this very hotel, many decades ago. Why?  It was fun wandering and reminiscing. It made me wish we were joined by our siblings, or friends of similar age. We could have lounged on the sleek couches with beer and pretzels and talked about the sixties. Well that's what my parents were enjoying in the '60's. Kool-Aid and pretzels for me. Suppertime I've said before I love the retro idea of a Supper Club. And that's how this whole place began. The Highlander Inn actually opened as a Supper Club in 1967.. or 1964. I found both dates when researching.  Highlander Inn Supper Club went through nearly 6 decades of makeovers. After the recent 3-year renovation, the popular Supper Club returned, along with a "Retro Cocktail Arcade". Sunken Bar Previous owners over the years, hid some of the fun stuff. A lot of carpet and concrete had to be removed during renovation.  The limestone wall that separated the sunken bar and restaurant had to be recreated one lime brick at a time. What a cool 2-sided bar. I failed to capture the levels in this photo. Arcade? I kind of wish they had chosen to lean more towards Supper Club than Arcade. But if that's what it takes to lure young guests to keep an historic hotel open, I'm okay with that!  I'm guessing the pool tables and arcade games are sitting where dining tables once stood. I do recognize the hanging light fixtures from the earliest photos. More Music Don was happy to study every album cover.  He definitely owned more albums in the '60's and '70's than I did.  I recognized plenty though. I was happy to spot a Herman's Hermits album. For my 10th birthday, I was allowed to take a few friends to Des Moines to see their movie! One of those friends lives in Iowa City now. Joanna said her family has enjoyed a Staycation or two at The Highlander! Imagining We pretty much had the place to ourselves. I tried to imagine all these tables and games in use, by U of Iowa students on weekends.  I imagined the decor in the early 70's, when these splendid chandeliers shined down on fancy tables... and my friend Marla had her Homecoming Dinner here! Convincing Don Don wasn't thrilled about losing money in arcade games. He was amused enough by the totally free (and silly) video, on the Guitar Hero screen.
I insisted we embrace what the Supper Club has become. I purchased tokens and got a very silly fortune from Zoltar. Pinball Madness I know nothing about arcade games, but least I felt confident with old pinball machines. Maybe not. I kept losing tokens which made me sort of lose my mind.  The nice guy working behind the sunken bar assured me that some of the machines were funky. It wasn't me. He gave me a pile of tokens and by the time I was sort of having fun, they were gone. Oh well. Food We ordered some food at the bar and suddenly wished there were more people to watch. I could have guided people. "The Munsters pinball works!"  The pork sandwich was actually pretty tasty and came with chips and chunky pico de gallo. Not bad! Snack Shack Another quiet food place, was located near the indoor pool. We could help ourselves to complimentary sodas and coffee. The bartender dashed in here a couple times to make milkshakes I believe.  We mostly just stopped in to enjoy some 1960's trivia, on the wall. Top 10 Tunes of 1967 I was 10 in 1967, so I have fun memories of every single one of these 10 songs!  However I can't believe "The Letter" was more popular than "Georgie Girl", "All You Need is Love" or "Up, Up and Away"! My opinion of course. Comp Breakfast This Snack Shack area also served complimentary breakfast the next day.  The warmer held breakfast sandwiches wrapped in foil. We were content with yogurt and oatmeal. We wondered again, what this would be like on a weekend. There seemed to be a lot of unlocked liquor bottles... Pool Area! The Highlander Supper Club added the hotel and pool area in the early 1970's.  This is the view of the indoor pool, with the Snack Shack on the left.  When this indoor beauty opened in 1974, I'm sure it was an impressive oasis. You could book a super groovy room overlooking the pool! Today's Look Before renovations, I'm guessing this would be the last view I'd want to have from my motel balcony. Chlorine smells and sounds of splashing and "Marco Polo-ing".  But the space was lovely! Comfy sitting areas with no mildew smells. The "garage doors" let in lots of light.  The hot tub looked so inviting and we had suits with us! But it was closed for maintenance. Rats. Cheers to But we made use of the chill atmosphere and ordered drinks from the bar for a poolside toast.  Cheers to unbreakable glasses that don't look like plastic! Cheers to our innocent pre-teen years in the 1960's. What fun to remember those days! What's Notable? The Highlander Hotel was hipper and bolder and classier than I expected!  Without crowds, we got to enjoy drinks by the pool and silly games at the Supper Club. We enjoyed wandering and taking in all the nostalgia of the sixties and seventies. We enjoyed our peaceful, comfy room. I'd love to go back on a weekend when all 90 rooms are booked and just see what it's like! Maybe...
Another Old One, in Iowa This is about the 9th historic Iowa hotel that Don and I have enjoyed in the past decade.  Hotel Winneshiek opened in 1905, but the history of lodging on this piece of land, goes back to the mid 1800's. Pretty Town and Hotel Don and I discovered the U-shaped hotel when we drove through the town of Decorah, about 9 years ago.   We were impressed with the quaint, downtown buildings and noticed the tidy, 3-story hotel. We parked and stepped inside. After peeking around, we put it on our list and 9 years later, we booked. October 2023 It was a sunny day when we arrived last fall.  As we headed towards the entrance, I was entertained by all that was going on, around that door. Ionic columns! Stone ornamental shield! Fancy pediment above the door! All part of the Beaux-Arts building design. Beaux-Arts Design I'm pretty the Beaux-Arts style involves symmetry and this 2 part building was perfectly balanced. This photos shows the building section to the left of the entrance.  The matched sides appealed to my child self. As a kid, I liked things even! I was about 8, when my older brother tried to explain the beauty of asymmetric design. I told him he didn't know what he was talking about! 1877 Before the current building was constructed, Winneshiek House took in guests. The building style looks quite different. The Seyer Opera House (on the left) still looks much the same today.  The description from the Historical Society is pretty informative... and confusing. Two-over-two windows? I need to learn! Entrance Before reaching the lobby, we passed through a one-story vestibule.  The terrazzo floors and cherry woodwork greeted us. All original. I'm not sure if the stained glass is original. As with many historic hotels, The Winneshiek had some dark years, following the prosperous ones. Did the stained glass survive?
To the left of the door, I spotted 2 photos, with famous visitors. The hotel was freshly refurbished when Barrack Obama visited during his first run for office. The Crown Prince and Princess of Norway were big visitors, in 1939. Octagonal Rotunda When we stepped into the 3-story lobby, I looked straight up. The open space and stained glass ceiling, created a grand-looking atrium.  I'm not a math person, but I've always liked puzzling over geometry. There were a lot of shapes to ponder in the the wood and glass. It's hard to believe this octagonal rotunda was completely covered up, in a big 1930's remodeling. Best View This wonderful view from the third floor was completely lost after the odd structural changes, 8+ decades ago!  There was no one to spy on from above. But I enjoyed studying the seating arrangement in the center of the lobby. Pondering the Floor The circular mosaic design in the middle of the terrazzo floor must have made furniture arranging a little tricky, over the years.  There were 4 chairs facing the circle. Perfect for admiring the "H W" mosaic design in the center. It's possible that this floor was covered in carpet, back in the 1970's, when the hotel was turned into an apartment building. Luckily, The Winn (as people in the know call it) was rescued in 1998. The interior (with all its funky apartment renovations) had to be demolished, then reconstructed. Couch View The comfiest seating option was the couch, facing the marble fireplace, with its decorated mantle.  I doubt those chairs were there in 1939, but I could picture the Crown Prince and Princess, sitting properly in both oddly tall things. Hall of Mirrors Between the front desk and the fireplace, there was a hallway leading to a rear entrance.  I wanted to ask the guy who checked us in, what the story was with all those mirrors. But the guy (that I nicknamed Mr. Bland) was not open to much chit chat. He seemed as formal as the most ornate mirror, in the display. He had a "check-in spiel" that didn't allow for questions. I was told "I will get to that." when I asked questions that he planned on answering later. Grand Staircase Across from the Mr. Bland's counter, was a grand stairway, with curling banisters. The kid in me wondered about the short (but challenging) ride I could have taken down one of those. I can picture Mr. B's reaction!  The railings swooped open dramatically, as if welcoming us to wander up to the painted garden! There could have been an interesting story about that painted well. I didn't ask. Steyer Opera House A little later I wandered in search of the Opera House. I knew the hotel had an entrance to the elegant 1870 theatre. It was renovated along with the hotel and is now used as an event space.  I only found this decorated wall and some locked doors. I gathered my confidence and asked Mr. Bland if it might be possible to have a peek at the Opera House. (I'd read guest reviews, raving about the theatre) He assured me that wasn't possible. Oh well. Second Floor Our room was located off a little hallway, on the second floor.  It was very quiet. The only people we saw were the ones in the framed art. A Puzzling Space A trio of doors faced the little hallway near our room. I looked at the shape of the ceiling and carpet and tried to imagine how hard it was puzzling together all these room spaces, within this oddly shaped hotel building.
When we opened our door, we were met with an even longer hall. We passed a bathroom and closet area, to get to our room. Nice Bath The grand reopening of the hotel was nearly 25 years ago, so I was nicely surprised with the fresh and spacious bathroom. The geometric tile pleased me. And yay for a tub and even a make-up mirror.
I don't usually add a toilet photo, but this toilet practically had its own room and window. Frosted glass behind the lace! Corner Room! I'm always delighted with a corner room.  Like the bathroom, this felt spacious for an old hotel. Oddly Formal In a matter of moments Don and I were chuckling at the room details. Decorating isn't actually my thing and I'm usually very forgiving with old hotels. But the formality of the drapes and lace and gold frames, seemed oddly accented with oak furniture, that you might find at IKEA.
The window drapes did actually fit the proper style of the hotel. But the views behind the lace weren't so elegant. A brick wall and a parking lot. We should have asked Mr. B for a room in the front of the building. And The Bed Once again, I found myself perplexed by the mix of styles. It seemed like the hotel had worked hard to be accurate with renovations. But our Mission-style headboard just did not fit.  And the fit of the "comforter" was even worse. It was about the weight of a tissue and it barely covered the top. I kept looking at the texture and being reminded of when I was a bored child and crumbled a piece of notebook paper about 3,000 times, until the lines rubbed away and the paper was as soft as a Kleenex. The bed-topper was indeed soft, but the exposed metal frame was not. Don came close to a bloody injury, so he wrapped the frame's leg with a towel.  Don was also concerned about the already cold room. He was pretty sure the "Kleenex" wasn't going to provide us with enough warmth. There were no blankets in the closet.  I called Mr. B at the desk and he had a blanket sent up. It was more of a large beach towel, but it did add a bit of warmth. Hotel Winn Bar I promise we didn't really fret for hours over our bed. We spread the golden blanket and headed off for the hotel's bar/restaurant. Actually more bar than restaurant.   I took photos before The Winn Bar opened, at 5. It was really a very nice and comfortable set up. At the Bar It was after 6, when Don and I took a seat at the bar. That was a good plan since the lone bartender was working the bar, tables and kitchen himself. It was a pleasant treat to look across the bar and see artwork, instead of a TV.
Our bartender Jeremy couldn't have been nicer. He bustled around, but slowed down now and then to chat with us. We had some interesting conversations about Jeremy's work with the Coastguard, while we nibbled on toasted ravioli, with pesto sauce. Lobby Lounging And after we finished, there was an inviting fire in the lobby. I checked out one of the tall, velvet chairs! I felt like Goldilocks! "This chair is toooo tall."   It was nice to have the lobby to ourselves. Mr. B wasn't lurking anymore and we were growing fond of our curious hotel. I was surprised that we saw no other guests while we lounged. Morning We slept well under our peculiar covers. I slipped outside before 7 the next morning.  The street was quiet and the Old Winn looked pretty lovely, in the pre-dawn light. Chilly Walk One of the best parts of staying at The Winnehiek, was the location. It was 35 degrees that morning, but I couldn't go inside and miss out on seeing the town wake up.  I kept wandering and spotting lovely buildings, along with the changing sky. Don and I ended up skipping the complimentary breakfast at The Winn and had bagels across the street. Then we were off to explore a little more of the charming town. What's Notable I will mostly remember our stay at Hotel Winneshiek for the building itself and the nice downtown location. I love Decorah and I love that this hotel was rescued and renovated.  Comfortable bar... friendly bartender. Octagonal rotunda and amusing bed. Mostly I'll remember the pretty exterior on the lovely street... and beautiful weather for exploring!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
July 2024
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