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Switzerland, Germany or France? Last November, Don and I stayed at Hotel Suisse in Strasbourg. It was the first weekend of the month-long Christmas Market!  The hotel's name kept confusing me. We weren't in Switzerland, but our hotel was in Strasbourg and that sounded German. So... our hotel had a Swiss name, but was in France, very near the German border. It had flavors of all 3 countries! 14th Century Residence You'd never guess from this photo that our tidy little hotel, was over 600 years old!  The hotel website said the building was originally a residence, in the 14th century. I can't imagine how many facelifts and makeovers this building has experienced. Arriving Don and I arrived in Strasbourg, on a chilly-damp day in November. The hotel was only 1.5 miles from the train station, but we somehow wandered endlessly with our bags. We took in the storybook scenery as we walked.
We finally came to a bridge that took us over the River Ill, to Strasbourg's Grande-Ile in the city's historic center. Grande-Ile The historic island felt a little like Venice to me. An escape from cars to an island, surrounded by the main channel of the Ill River and the Faux-Empart Canal. The entire area was declared a UNESCO site in 1988.  As a young kid I dreamed of going to Paris. Like most kids I was drawn to the Eiffel Tower. If I'd heard of Strasbourg, (and its Christmas markets) when I was young, I would have wished on every birthday candle!  But I only learned of Strasbourg recently. We were booking a spontaneous trip to Paris last Thanksgiving, when photos of the festive Christmas Markets popped up in some travel ads. "What is this magical place!?" I hardly looked for an answer, before I scrambled to add 2 days to our trip! Row Houses Our 2-building hotel, was located at the end of a long series of row houses. It was interesting to study the various shapes and colors, of so many connected buildings.  As we approached I could see the hotel's coffee shop, (Cafe Suisse) on the corner. Festive Entrance We passed the cafe and headed for the hotel's decorated entrance, under the awning. I hardly understand these tricky buildings that stand side-by-side.  The yellowish building (holding lobby) and the tannish one with the cafe, seemed to be glued together, sharing one wall. Is that what a row house is? More Baffling But the roofs are even more baffling! Look at the dramatically steep roof with the dormer windows, scattered here and there!  Those oddly shaped attic windows are actually called "sitting dog windows". I can sort of picture a dog... maybe. But how random these windows seem! Usually you can study windows to count the floors. Are there 6 or 7 stories? Lobby It was nice to escape the chilly day, when we stepped inside the cozy lobby.  This cute little stairway didn't lead up to the top floor. Only to a small loft with a sitting area. Sadly it was roped off. Too Early We waited for a bit at the lobby desk, until a young woman rushed over from the cafe.  Our room wasn't ready, but the woman offered to hold our luggage, then guided us to the cafe for some complimentary coffee. Cafe Suisse I wish my photo better captured the storybook feel of this sweet cafe.  We warmed up at our cozy oasis-table, sandwiched between Aladdin's carpet and the timbered-beamed ceiling... of Cinderella's cottage.
While I sipped cappuccino, I studied the delicate decor in the windows and thought of more fairytales. A gingerbread men! Stars and snowflakes... even pretzels! Above the Cafe When our room was ready, we only had one flight to climb. Our room was right above the cafe.  We passed some interesting framed prints and stepped into our curiously decorated hall.  Actually we had to wait a moment. The maid was still vaccuming. Hints of the Past I was totally entertained as we stood in the hall, on the mod carpet with giant flowers. What was behind that closed off doorway?
How many layers of paint? Is that a thick wall, or just an oddly reconstructed wall?  Is this the original staircase? Oh, why didn't I just wander up for a moment. Regrets! "Family Superior Room" When we stepped into our room I couldn't have been more pleased. Our corner room was filled with windows!  The windows over the radiators looked directly across to Rohan Palace. Box Bay Window? I think that's what they call a bay window that juts out, this way. I loved how the soft curtains framed it. 
I could step right into the alcove and look down the side street, towards the bridge. Our Glowing Windows From the street in the evening, you could see our windows glowing, above the cafe.  It's intriguing to imagine all 25, (totally different) rooms in the hotel. Our room was long and spacious and I loved it. But I'm still curious about the rooms within the roof! I'm sure they're the smallest and most charming rooms. Modern Yet Quaint Our updated modern-sleek room felt very fresh and clean. I liked the calming colors.  The curtains added cozy, quaint charm. I'm not a fabric person, but I learned about the Alsatian linen and cotton Kelsch fabrics, used in the hotel.  Even the little "Do Not Disturb" notice on the door, was made with Kelsch plaid fabric. The Bath No complaints about the bathroom! The windows brought in lots of light. Well, as much as a drizzly day could offer.
The floor and tile work blended well with the room color! 2 Views of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg! I was impressed with the lovely print, propped on a shelf in the bathroom. It was an image of the gorgeous cathedral, just steps away from our hotel.
Instead of looking at the print, I could glance out the bathroom window and admire the single spire of the same Gothic beauty! Blending with the Room Don did a nice pose for me, in his nearly matching shirt!  He looked like an employee, in a Suisse Hotel uniform. Side By Side Like many European hotels, our King bed was made of 2 beds.  Kind of like the row houses, stuck together! Fancy Wall I was pretty delighted with our fancy wall texture behind the vevet-y headboard.  As I admired it, I noticed the obvious slant of the ceiling. This photo is not just taken at a jaunty angle. Embossed Wallpaper On my 10th birthday, I remember being in the Ladies Room of a fancy restaurant and touching the velvet softness of flocked wallpaper. Oooo! It was deluxe!  56 years later, the raised design on our room's embossed wallpaper, gave me a similar thrill. No colors and no velvet, but the kid in me was just as tempted to touch the intriguing texture. Hanging Out Despite the Market crowds filling the streets below us, our guest room was very quiet by bedtime and in the morning.  Our room was just steps away from markets and restaurants, so it was easy to return and warm up here and there. The room was warm and comfortable, although the velvet "gumdrop stools" weren't ideal for lounging, or sitting at the table. Dining Cafe Suisse served a fabulous breakfast each morning, but it was costly and we weren't hungry enough to make it worthwhile.  Instead, we purchased bakery treats and made our own coffee. Au Fond Du Jardin Right next door to our hotel, was a magical little tea shop that we missed out on.
The line to get in was endless on Sunday. On Monday, the lavish shop filled with decadent treats, was closed. Macarons Instead So on Monday, after a day out and about in the rain, we had our own tea time.  We hurried back with some macarons and made tea! Once again, we appreciated the convenience and the coziness of our room. Christmas Market I don't like crowds and I don't like cold, wet weather. I'm actually not a big fan of shopping, either! But it was impossible not to love it all!  It was the Christmas Market that lured us to Strasbourg. So here is a slideshow filled with images of the magical moments we enjoyed, just steps from our hotel. We didn't see the sun once on our 2 day visit, but we were happily distracted by all the colorful decor and delicious smells and friendly folks, wandering the cobblestone streets. Location I can't emphasize enough how nice it was to come and go, without needing tricky transportation. So happy to just use our feet!  The convenience of Hotel Suisse was so appreciated. Especially when we returned both nights, so see this glowing entrance. Strasbourg Without Crowds I hardly I took a photo, that didn't have splash of holiday decor. But the traditional Alsatian buildings were plenty festive, without decorations or summer flowers. What a treat to wander the winding streets and take it all in, early in the morning! What's Notable? I'll just repeat myself. Staying at Hotel Suisse was comfortable and cozy. Sleeping in such an historic building, was the icing on the cake!  The best part of the hotel was the location. Looking out our windows and seeing the Cathedral and the colorful markets, was even better than I imagined. I don't need to list all the places we walked to. The photos are above!
Yes! I would gladly stay again... for longer!
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Vestay Montaigne Don and I made a quick decision to spend Thanksgiving in Paris.  Sounds decadent, but we grabbed cheap airline tickets and found a reasonably priced hotel on the internet. We booked Hotel Vestay Montaigne for 4 nights and crossed our fingers. Arrival One of the perks, was that our hotel stay came with a complimentary ride from the airport.  After 45 minutes our car pulled up to this magnificent door. I hoped our driver hadn't made a mistake. I had not spotted this 2-story entrance, in website photos. Haussmanian Building I did expect this building though. (tall door was to the left) I had spotted the grand building in an internet photo. But I still had fingers crossed. The website had shared very few photos.  The site had mentioned that the hotel rooms were located in a "Haussmannian" building in a "typical Parisian refined setting." That certainly sounded intriguing. Mid-19th Century Paris I had to look up Hassmannian. I learned that Baron Haussmann played a big role in the 2+ decade project to reconstruct Paris, in the mid 1800s. Today, his buildings still dominate central Paris. Our hotel (right) was surrounded by them.  The buildings looked very similar. Haussmann buildings had strict guidelines. Exteriors were cream colored stone, with shops and restaurants on the ground floor. No taller than 6 stories.  It seemed like every building in every direction had the same iron balconies and mansard roofs. I learned later that Medievil neighborhoods had to be removed to create these lovely boulevards and buildings. Sad to think about. Second or Third? The 6 Vestay hotel rooms were all located on the "second" floor. In the U.S. we call it the third floor. The arrow points to our room.  The ground floor space in Haussmann buildings, was reserved for businesses. First floor was often used for storage. Second floor was considered the most desirable... the Noble Floor. Yay for us! Entrances There were so many impressive doorways in the area. I loved the smiling face above another nearby door.
The face above our tall door, was less cheery. As we plugged in the code to open the door, her shifty eyes kept an eye out for suspicious characters. At least that's how I read her expression! Heading In! I was eager to step inside! Luckily the heavy door wasn't really 2-stories tall. The decorated arch around our door, made it look twice as large. The window below the arch was actually a window into the floor above.
Once inside we could see couldn't see the window above the door. But we could see a Doric columns and large mirrors!  We approached another set of doors and punched in another code. This area near the elevator and stairway, also had a large mirror.  On our way out later in the evening, we paused in front of that large mirror. We let it help us with what I call an "Old People Selfie". Don't think we'll frame this. Up the Red Carpet For most of our stay we used the staircase to reach our room.  If you look to the right of the lovely window, you can see the narrow doors to the elevator. Narrow Stairs The view looking up 6 flights, was eerie and dramatic.  I wondered about the Parisians who climbed these steps in the 1800s.  I climbed to the top just once, to take this photo. I paused to catch my breath and wonder about the attic rooms tucked into the mansard roof. The top floor was usually reserved for servants or lower class. I'll bet they were the fittest residents in the building, with daily climbs! Modern Elevator I'm not sure when the elevator was added, but the modern addition still seemed mighty old to me.  There wasn't room for Don and me plus luggage, so Don rode up.  I happily took the stairs and hoped he wouldn't get stuck. We always took the stairs after that. Room 14 The walls and floor in the stairwell were a little worn. But when reached the Vestay entrance on the "second" floor, (and punched another code) we found an immaculate hallway, with gray doors and red carpet.  We were early for check in, but one of the very busy housekeepers, (who spoke English) said our room was ready. There are only 6 rooms, so I'm not sure about these high numbers? Our Host Frederick (the owner, I believe) had just arrived and was happy to show us to our room.  The room was small, but clean and charming. Modern I usually love old and original, over sleek and modern. But Don and I had recently dealt with our first Covid illness. We were all about comfort.  The heavenly bed and spotless surroundings were very welcoming.
Frederick pointed out the "kitchen corner". The fridge held all the makings for our continental breakfast. (bread, meat, cheese, juice) He told us it would be replenished daily. The dishes and glassware were lovely! Bathing The bathroom was also small, (no bubble baths) but quite luxurious.  There was a heated towel rack and an illuminated make up mirror.  The towels, robes and slippers were cozy soft. View! As soon as Frederick left us, I pulled back the sheers to reveal our view!  We knew not to expect the Eiffel Tower or Arch de Triumph. But I was thrilled to see our lovely city view. The building across, looked very much like ours!  The November weather was chilly, but I had to open the doors! Rear Window I could easily see activity in the doors directly across. I felt like a spying Jimmy Steward, in Rear Window.  I was more curious about who might live or work behind the tiny windows at the very top! On the Balcony There was just enough room for a cafe table and 2 chairs on the balcony.  There was lots of pedestrian activity to watch below. I could also study the businesses near the street. We ended up dining at Maitre Pierre, after studying the red awning. Coffee and Tea Jet lag kept us from rising too early in the mornings. I needed a few of these small cups of coffee after my showers!  After dinner one evening, I was determined to brave the cold and have some tea outside.  The street never got overly active at night, but it was fun watching friends and small groups traveling here and there... voices and footsteps echoing off the buildings. Wine Time We made a lot more use of our inside table.  Our table by the window was perfect for a glass of wine, purchased from a wine shop around the corner. The owner was kind enough to steer us towards the best of the cheap! Lunch Another day we walked to a nearby deli called Pret. We bought sandwiches and enjoyed them in the room, on flowered china.
Don and I so rarely stay at a hotel more than a night or two. It was a treat to have 4 nights, with time to dine out and explore and still have some relaxing time in our cozy room. People Encounters? A tiny part of me missed being in a traditional hotel. A hotel with a lobby, restaurant and bar, offers more opportunity for memorable people encounters... or just good people watching. We never saw another guest on our floor. We did however enjoy peeking in on the activity that took place in the salon that occupied the "first" floor. At night, we could spot a little beautification happening, when we peered into the well lit windows from below.  On every trip I took up or down the stairs, I paused on the first floor to peek in the (wide open) door. So many sounds and smells to absorb in that busy, happy place! There was always laughter and sometimes music, along with sounds of blowdryers. I'm disappointed with myself that I didn't just step inside and inquire about an appointment, just to take in the festive vibe. Golden Triangle One of the best selling points of Vestay Montaigne, was the location. Except for an Uber ride to Montmarte, Don and I did all our exploring on foot.  I'd never heard the term, but our hotel was in the middle of the Golden Triangle. The Triangle is described as an upper-crust neighborhood, sitting within 3 famous boulevards. The snooty notion didn't sell me, but the walkability did! Champs-Elysees I'm not really about high end boutique shopping, but I loved being such a short walk from the most famous of the 3 boulevards.  The Champs-Elysees was already festive and decorated, when we arrived in mid November. The Shops and Sights Below are some of things we spotted on and around Champs-Elysees. Only window shopping for me! Heading Towards the Seine The first evening of our stay, we left our hotel and headed on Avenue George V, in the other direction.  We lucked out with a sunset view of the Eiffel Tower. The sight was an energizing lift to these worn travelers. We'd been awake for 24 hours and were still a bit weary from Covid. Sights Not Far From the Seine From our hotel, were able to easily reach all these places with our easy wandering. I couldn't resist snapping photos of tourists posing with the Eiffel Tower... or bridal couples near the river. Last Evening By the 4th night, Don and I were finally feeling rested. Energy was returning and yet it was time to go!  We hadn't "done it all", but we'd done plenty. It was pretty much the perfect short stay for a spontaneous trip! What's Notable? The Vestay Montaigne was so incredibly comfortable and luxurious. The sweet housekeeping staff (working 10-2) made us feel like we were being taken care of!  For around $275. a night, we stayed in a lovely hotel, located in an ideal part of Paris. We also got the experience of staying an historic Haussmann "flat". Which made it fun to imagine what Paris was was like, 150 years ago I would easily book again... although I'd ask for their largest room!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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