A minute before, we'd pulled into Salado, knowing little about the town. It looked surprisingly lively, on a hot afternoon. Tourists roamed the shops and picnicked in the nearby park. We pulled into the lot and I headed inside the Registration Office, where the a.c. worked well! I was given a key and a very chilly metal pail, filled with ice. Ahhh! But where was the hotel?

​The Original Inn

Just steps from the office, (but fairly hidden behind trees) was the hotel's restaurant. The wood framed building, was the original, Shady Villa Inn. It opened in 1861 as a stagecoach stop, serving travelers on the Chisholm Trail. (This was not our hotel for the night!)

In 1943, Dion and Ruth Van Bibbers bought the property and opened a sophisticated southern style tea room. It was renamed the Stagecoach Inn. They stopped accepting lodgers at some point and focussed on adding dining rooms. We made reservations for the evening!

We drove our car from the office, to a shady building in the back of the grounds. Our accommodations were in a post WWII motel, not a Civil War era inn. No problem.

Pink Coach!

As soon as we hopped out of the car, we could hear the cars whizzing by on I-35. I wandered towards the sound and found the original motel lobby and coffee shop. Now closed.

I also found a stagecoach, sitting on some dry grass. Even with bright yellow and pink paint, it looked sort of lonely and forgotten. I'll bet it must have delighted kids back in the day, when they spotted it from the highway. The front of the hotel once faced I-35. That was back when the highway was brand new and much quieter.  

Love the Neon

From our parking area, the trees nearly blocked the iconic neon sign. But the cars flying by, had a good view.

It was only a couple years ago, that the Stagecoach Inn was taken over by Austin based "Bunkhouse Group". They reverted to the original Shady Villa name. I'm glad the old neon sign still glows!

Building #1

Scattered on the property, there were several buildings holding 48 rooms. All were connected by pretty walkways. As we headed towards our building, I wondered how this structure looked when it was built in the '50's. 

The Bunkhouse Group has done a great job rescuing numerous historic hotels. We've stayed at a few in Texas. I felt like I was spotting their style as we climbed the steps. The white brick, chickenwire with vines and interesting light fixture... All seemed to have a little Austin Hipness.
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​Both Sides
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The outdoor hallway revealed painted doors, but no windows. Each upper unit had an entrance on the north, with glass doors and balcony on the south side.

The lush landscaping offered lots of privacy, to the patios on the lower level. I was glad to be higher, with a view.

Cool!

Our spacious room with Saltillo tile floors felt cool on a hot day. The shiny floors made me feel like we were staying at a hotel in Mexico.  

The whole room had a cool, mid-century vibe. We had our naugahyde daybed/couch with lounge pillows and a hip swag lamp and a wall of glass, inviting us to the balcony.

Comfy Bed 

The daybed actually was not a bit comfortable, but the king bed and linens felt heavenly. And we had a very relaxing photo image above the bed. (Big Bend National Park?) All rooms featured photographic scenes of Texas.

I so appreciate having side tables and shelves and lamps, when we travel. I never expect to have a sound machine, but we had one.
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Fresh Bathroom!

The tile work in the bathroom was extra bright and fun. Reminded me of minty, Chiclets gum! 

The modern sink was sleek and the towels were thick and soft. What did the bathrooms look like 2 decades ago, when the hotel was run down and truckers were the usual guests? Those tired drivers would have loved making use of the giant showers, with great water pressure!

Extras 

Back in the '50's and '60's, travelers never expected a fridge in a motel. Microwaves weren't even in homes then. Our mid-century motel room had neither of those. I was fine with that.  

We did have an interesting coffeemaker, though. I fussed with it a while, but couldn't get my water heated. The cans of still water, were much cuter than plastic bottles. Color television? Luckily we didn't have a retro model with rabbit ears. We had a nice wall-mounted TV, with good picture and decent stations. Yay for TCM movies!  

Perfect?

The balcony was almost perfect. Especially with canvas butterfly chairs and an exotic lamp! There was just a little bit of stain on the fabric, from roosting birds. Balconies and birds...we've had this problem before. 

But we had a perfect view of the pool and grounds. Not too close! And we had the perfect amount of trees for shade. But, it was still 99 degrees!

Wandering

We had a couple hours until dinner. Don cooled off in the room, gabbing with the kids who called to wish him a Happy Dad Day!  

I braved the heat and wandered the grounds, enjoying the shade of live oaks and the sounds of splashing in the pool.

I headed down Main Street, towards Salado  Creek, then  returned to make sure we had time to hit the pool before dinner.

Pool Time
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​Something about the trees and jungly growth and the retro motel building, took me back to my childhood years living in Florida.

I was reminded of neighborhood pools, near my family's home in Tallahassee. Something about those retro chaise lounge chairs, resting under mod sunshades. But most of all it was the grass. It felt like 1967 and we were gathering with other families for a Father's Day BBQ!. There was a homey, or even  camp-like atmosphere. 

​Happy Hour on the Balcony

After a little pool time, we headed back to our room in wet suits.

We made use of the light, "serape robes" (that we've seen in other Bunkhouse Hotels) and covered our chairs. Our wet suits kept our bodies cool, while we sipped iced drinks and toasted to Don's 36th Father's Day. I promised we'd celebrate back home, the next day.  

​The Pavilion

On our way to dinner, we took our time checking out the brand new, spacious pavilion.

There were lots of games that made me wish our kids were with us. Ping  Pong, darts and giant Connect Four.  

Best of all there was lots of seating. Chairs and tables and couches, all in little gathering areas.  For cool months, there was a fireplace built into the stone wall. For steamy summer days, there were big fans hanging down from the rafters!

Western Club

​On the opposite side of the covered shelter, we found the Western Club.

The inviting bar, was just steps from the pool. I was surprised that it wasn't open on a busy "holiday", but maybe the new space hasn't fully opened yet. I can see how this whole resort-camp vibe might be catching on very soon.

​Restaurant Time

As we approached the restaurant, I had fun imagining this place back in the '50's when the Van Bibbers kept customers coming back for more deviled eggs and hushpuppies and Mrs. Van's Strawberry Kiss dessert!

We could spot some obvious additions. Many were added by the Van Bibbers. The ramp with more chickenwire, looked new.  

In the 1800's

It was fun to imagine what the inn was like, even further back in time.

I'm guessing this live oak (that seems to be growing in 2 directions) was probably around before the inn.

Local folklore says that General Sam Houston once stepped out onto the veranda to give a speech against secession from the Union..

We peeked in another upstairs room with the same appealing wood and stone.

Dining on Sunday Evening

The first floor of the inn is usually available for diners, but there were a.c. issues.

I would have loved to have eaten in this room. I have no clue about the man in the portrait or the cash register. There seemed to be many images of Mr Van Bibber in other rooms.

Lunch with the Ladies
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The Van Bibbers added dining spaces gradually in the 40's and '50's. I love the way they built around the oak tree!

I wish I could go back in time and have lunch with some lady friends. We'd remove our white gloves and have a little iced tea with our sandwiches.

Sunroom

I wish Don and I could have enjoyed our dinner in this room, overlooking the grounds.

It was full of diners when we first arrived, but it would have been a fun choice.

Main Room

​The main dining room didn't have the historic charm of the old inn, but it had a nice open feel, with books and fireplace, a couch and a bar. ​

My traditional chicken fried steak barely fit on my plate. It had an incredibly crispy, flavorful crust and sweet onion gravy!  

Back We Go

We didn't linger long. It had been a busy holiday at the hotel/restaurant and the staff had clearly put in a long day. 

We left happy and meandered back. The pavilion looked inviting even though the bar was closed.

All to Ourselves

And maybe it was lucky for us that the Western Club wasn't open.  

We had the pavilion to ourselves. Don got some wine from our room and we shared a glass, under a whirling fan. We were no longer bothered by the heat or the roar of I-35.  What a fun and comfy space.

Morning

In the morning, Don and I rose early and headed off in search of coffee. 

The air had cooled and Main Street was quiet! We found a coffee shop and wandered with our cups, in both directions. There were lots of little photo ops and I clicked away.

Salado Pics
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Here are a few from the evening before. Click to enlarge.

And way too many photos from our morning walk!

The jungly setting kind of tied it all together, with a casual resort feel! Cheers for a little pool time and quiet pavilion time and walking in town time.

We will definitely hit this place again! Hopefully before room rates rise high!
​

The old railroad hotel has been sitting in this tiny Texas town for over 100 years. It's been on our Hotels to Try List, for just a few.

Post, Texas

Post is a curious place, but not exactly a vacation destination. 

But, since the town was right on our route home from Colorado, we booked a night.

Drive-by in 2019

Most of the hotels on this blog were introduced to us by word of mouth or the internet. But The Garza showed itself to us, when we drove through Post 3 years ago. I snapped a photo from the car.

This year when we pulled into town the hotel looked pretty much the same, except for a missing tree and a room addition. 

Easy Arrival

We parked right in front and headed for the obvious entrance, with the awning. Small town hotel parking is such a treat!

I noticed the door to the right, and guessed it belonged to our hosts. Owners who live onsite sometimes have good stories!  
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Glass Block in 1916?

As we headed to the door I realized I knew close to nothing about this old hotel, except that it opened in 1916. Before we headed in, I took a photo of the simple entry, wth lots of glass block. It prompted simple questions. Did they even have glass block in 1916? Did they add that in the '30's?

I read later that Gustave Falconnier patented the first hollowed glass block in 1886. I love collecting little historic tidbits!  

Inside The Garza

Don and I stepped inside at about 4 pm. We were greeted by some soft classical music and a strand of  glowing lights. But no people.

In the corner behind the desk, I spotted a camera, which most likely announced our arrival. A small sign told us to text, or press the buzzer for help. We buzzed.

Waiting

While we waited for the host, my eyes followed the shiny wood floors past the sofas and dining tables.

I could see stairs heading up to what looked like a cozy, loft-like space. I later learned that the hotel's lower level, originally held a general store and dining room. The hotel rooms were above. 

Looking at this image with 14-foot pressed tin ceilings, I can imagine shelves holding dry goods... coffee, cornmeal and flour. I picture bolts of fabric and tools. I picture glass jars full of penny candy. I don't picture those two enormous chandeliers hanging down, though! They were very, very odd. I'd love to know their story.
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Host Arrives​

I was studying the old organ when Ms. T appeared wearing gym shorts and tee shirt. Our host's laid back look, made me hopeful that we might chat a while and I could get some hotel/town history. But Ms. T was reserved and efficient as she checked us in.

She was quick to hand us our key and give us the scoop on wifi and breakfast. She walked us to the hall, pointed us towards our room, then disappeared into her private residence. 

​Room 10

Our first floor room was one of 11 guest rooms. It was clean and neat, with its own pressed tin ceiling. Decent for $118.

I appreciated having a ceiling fan and 2 bedside tables with lamps. There was a nice little craftsmen style desk and mirror.  

Room with a View

The king size bed took up most of the room. There was another chair, but no real place to sit comfortably. Don sat on the bed and noticed right away that there was an odd tilt to the mattress. But we managed. We've camped on hills and slept in rocky boats... 

Our window had a view of the side garden. It was 98 degrees that afternoon, but I was still glad to know we had use of the patio. What was that black tubing in the gravel?

The stairs took us to the second story, with a stop along the way. 

Loft Library?

​I'm guessing that years ago, this little area was added, between the first and second floor. It gave us a good view of the ceiling.

I wonder why we didn't curl up and read a book or play checkers? The space looks inviting in my photo, but the quiet room had an odd feel. Was it the low ceiling?

Ceilings and Hall

Surely we could have have eased into that space, if we'd given it some time. Now when I study the photo of Don, I fantasize about the creative fun we could have had, with those ornate ceilings... if we had misbehaved like the vandals did some years ago, when the hotel sat vacant. Don was tall enough, he wouldn't have needed spray paint. He could have played Michelangelo with a brush and a pallet of bright paint. He wouldn't have needed scaffolding or ladder!

Just kidding. Don and I are courteous guests. We just wandered down the second story hallway and studied the antiques. I regretted not taking an upstairs guest room. This is the floor where guests slept 100 years ago, after arriving to Post by train. It was fun to imagine. 

We peeked in a few open rooms. I spotted a claw footed tub under a chandelier. That must be what the website meant, when they used the word elegant.

The little kitchen area wasn't elegant, but it had fun, retro features and a handy microwave and fridge. I sort of kicked myself that we'd chosen a first floor room. It would have been less awkward being the only guests, if we'd been on the second floor.  

The Garden

​We gave up waiting for the weather to cool. I stepped out to check on the garden and Don gathered some ice and beverages.

The brochure said, "Time outside is pleasant in the lighted waterfall garden." That sounded nice.


But I could see the host family's addition had invaded on some of the guest space. I wasn't totally clear if the patio was for the owners, or the guests.

I noticed festive lights, wrapping the trees' trunks and branches. I hoped the garden would be pleasant when the sun went down. Sadly, the waterfall was dry and the patio chairs were covered in bird droppings. I headed down towards the less shaded deck. I almost tripped over a black hose that snaked over the walk... and that's when I noticed dog dishes the messy gravel. It was clearly a dog poop zone. I felt like I'd walked into someone's private backyard.
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Nice!

I headed down towards the newish deck near the rear of the yard. I spotted more hanging lights. That made the idea of sitting out after sunset, more inviting.  

I noticed an open gate on the back fence. I peeked in and saw an above ground pool, which is a little odd for a B&B. But I was wilting at that moment  and the water looked welcoming. Then I pondered over the confusing words on the small sign. I determined that the pool was off limits to guests. Oh well. Don would be arriving with cold drinks soon.

Cheers to Post!

Don and I rarely turn down a hotel patio or porch, even in rain, or scorching heat. We were determined to make a toast to our hotel's history, which we knew nothing about.

We snapped a photo with the camera timer. If we'd waited a moment longer, we could have asked Ms. T to take the photo, when she appeared from a backdoor. She seemed a little startled to see us on the deck. Or maybe she was perplexed, that we'd moved the chairs into the shade. As our host headed into the pool area, I quickly asked an important question. "Will the front door be locked if we come back late from dinner?" She answered without pausing. "It will be unlocked till 10." As she closed the gate behind her she added, "If you're later, just knock."   
Hmm?  Luckily we had no big plans in Post that night.
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Fly Friends

Don and I enjoyed our cold beverages while we listened to splashing sounds behind the fence. (swimming or pool cleaning?)  We were amused by the flies that enjoyed Happy Hour with us. They reminded us that we were out in Texas cow/ranch country. 

10 minutes later, Ms. T exited the pool area. I slowed her down with  another question about the waterfall. As I feared the water feature was out of commission. Oh well.

​Post in the Evening

Don and I actually had a great time on the deck. We did some history research on our phones and I got more curious the town. As the sun lowered, we headed off down Main Street. We had the Post to ourselves.

Post actually has a somewhat bizarre connection to C.W. Post, of cereal fame. In the early 1900's Mr. Post bought land in the area, with some of his fortune. He attempted to create a Utopian community, with tidy homes and trees. The town would have no liquor or brothels. He worked at his dream for less than a decade, but ended up taking his own life in 1914. Sometimes history is sobering.

Buildings and Bricks

We had a fun time wandering the quiet town. We didn't see any perfect little houses anywhere, but we found interesting buildings. The old Post Dispatch looked like it had the same rounded glass block, as our hotel. 

The Tower Theatre looked like it had the similar brick work as The Garza. The town had a lot of tan brick, because Mr. Post's Scottish stone masons evidently liked working with them.

Too Quiet
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We wandered to dinner and admired the impressively wide brick streets. A job done by WPA during the depression, I believe. 

It was 7:30 on a Saturday night. Stores were closed and we saw no one. I wanted to see a tumbleweed roll over those bricks!

To & From Dinner 

We paused a couple times, so I could pose with the colorful sign and an oil pump. The working pump reminded me why the town had a pungent oil odor. 

We ate at George's, which was the only open restaurant. Greek-Mexican-BBQ! We meandered back down the empty, lonely street. The hotel was just as quiet. I peeked out to the garden and saw only one glowing strand of patio lights. We opted to enjoy our a.c. and a little TV.

 
​Morning

By morning the temps had lowered and our moods had lifted.  We were up and showered by 7, but the breakfast window was 8:30 to 9:15. We arrived 10 minutes early to grab coffee. I hoped the morning vibe would feel more relaxed and we could end up chatting with our hosts.  

But Ms. T was busy setting up the buffet. She looked up and I assured her we were just grabbing coffee. We left the buffet table alone and happily took our mugs to the couches.

Pre-Breakfast Encounter!

We were not the only guests as it turns out. We met Bill who was getting early coffee just like us. He looked like someone we just needed to have a chat with. We introduced ourselves and he gave Don a firm handshake and solid eye contact. (Don noted) I reached out and Bill took my hand and tipped his hat. I was honored.

Turns out that Bill was "born and raised" in Post and was back visiting with his wife. He was the perfect person to fill us in on history. Not only did Bill have years of memories (he was about a decade older than me) but he was enthused and personable and definitely stylish, in his ostrich boots!

The Hotel

Bill chuckled about how wild Post was, back in the day. He teased that he knew that, since he had been one of the outlaws. He later got into law enforcement and knew quite a bit about our hotel in its darker years.

I looked at the tidy hotel and tried to picture the space when it was vacant. (1970's?) Then I imagined the folks who made the empty hotel their home. Bill said that at one point, a "Lady of the Night" moved in. (He made sure I knew what that meant) Then the teenage boys in town started coming around and the law had to get involved. The hotel became vacant again. Eventually the hotel had a rebirth when the Plummers bought the property in 1991. Current owners have been here about a decade.

Pondering Post

After a good chat, Bill's wife joined him for breakfast. Don and I enjoyed ours, while we thought about all we'd learned. We pictured the town as Bill described it. He told us stories that his parents had told him. What a fun connection with a local!

We wondered what would have happened to CW Post's town, if he'd been happier and healthier and lived longer. That's something we didn't discuss with Bill. Oh how I wish I could have had 3 hours with Bill. 

Good-bye Garza & Good-bye Post

After breakfast we headed off. There was no formal check out, but I called to Ms. T behind the buffet table partition.. Told her we had a nice time and were on our way. I hope she heard me.

It was a pretty morning and we drove all over town. Post has about 5,000 residents, but I actually don't remember seeing one. We drove all over the little town and I felt myself oddly connected to the curious place.
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(click pics to enlarge)

I do know that I'll have fond memories now. Our visit with Bill did the trick. So, I'll remember The Garza as a simple and decent hotel, where we met a wonderful local and absorbed some entertaining history... that led to family history!

Castroville, Texas
​
For years, Don and I have been intrigued with the Alsatian town of Castroville. The European-style village was established by 27 people in 1844.

We finally got to spend a night in Castroville and we slept at the Landmark Inn State Historic Site.  

Sleeping in a Museum

I love sleeping in a museum! The original building where we slept, goes back to 1849. That was when Cesar and Hannah Monod built a one-story L-shaped residence. The structure also housed a store, post office and stage stop. Stage stop? I need to learn more about that history.

In 1853, John and Rowena Vance bought the property and built an expansion and second story.

Today

In 1925, the Lawler Family bought the property, along with its gristmill. The hotel was renamed "Landmark Inn" in 1942.

Ruth Lawler donated the site to the State of Texas in 1974. Lucky for us, since it has been preserved well and we were able to stay at the inn/museum, in May 2021.

#1 Room

​We checked in at the gift shop in the afternoon. David greeted us wearing a mask and going over their Covid safety measures. 

Even though much of Texas had been easing up, the museum and inn was extremely cautious. Our room had stayed vacant the night before, in prep for our stay.

Signs of Old

We were staying in the only downstairs room at the inn. It was simple and spacious and immaculately clean. 

Our room had no TV or coffee maker and we were fine with that. It did have a nice copper ice bucket though. And the thick walls gave us impressively deep, shelf-like windowsills.

Back Window

The no frills bathroom was also spotless, but we were happy to have it.

The bathroom window looked out on the Monod's original detached kitchen and the stone wash house. We were glad we didn't have to walk out back get washed up.
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The Grounds
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The grounds were pretty on a May afternoon. The white building in the far back was the Vance House, built in 1859. 

I walked down the dirt path past some garden plots, to get a good look at our 2-story inn.

Exploring
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After checking in, Don and I explored more of the grounds. 

The mill was the industrial center of Castroville until the 1920's. Quiet and picturesque, today.

Vance House
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The home where the Vance family once lived, now holds a number of guest rooms. 

It was fun to peek inside the old Vance parlor, where inn guests were given breakfast in recent years. We could have lounged around the tables with books or games, but the weather was too nice.

The Porch
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Don and I were determined to enjoy the weather and use the porch. David had tipped me off that no other guests were staying in our building, so we were excited to have the whole space to ourselves.

The porch was just as fresh and clean as our room downstairs. We sat on the green rockers and looked out over the grounds while we chatted and enjoyed the breeze. For dinner, we walked to town and ate at a Mexican restaurant. Perfect!

 
Wandering in Town
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Don and I got up early and walked around the sleepy little town.  

What a curious area, with many of the homes built in the style of Alsace, where many of the original residents were from. The community felt quiet and peaceful on a Saturday morning.

Breakfast on the Way Out

Our stay at the Landmark Inn, came with two breakfast coupons at another  hotel. It wasn't within walking distance, so stopped in, on our way out of town.

The rain held off and we had a huge feast on the deck! It was a pleasant way to end our visit to Castroville.

What's Notable?
​
​Our quiet stay at the Landmark Inn, was pretty glorious. We had a nice visit to the inside museum, (through the green doors, near the poppies) and we did a little shopping at the  gift shop. That was a bonus to our stay.

But mostly, I'll remember enjoying the pretty grounds, on a spring evening. I loved wandering the grounds and I loved viewing them from above, in our rocking chairs. The combination of historic inn and historic town, was just lovely. 
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Gonzales, Texas

We spent the third night of our "back to road trips" adventure, in Gonzales. We stayed at the Dilworth Inn Bed & Breakfast.

The inn sits on one of the corners, of the old town square. It's not an historic hotel, but it's housed in an old bank building from 1912. 

​A Bank in 1912

The historic Dilworth Building, once held a bank. At one time, it held Gilmer's Department store.  At some point, it housed a church.

The original interior looks impressive... and Texan. In this photo, you can spot longhorn and deer heads, mounted on the far walls.

Entrance

The small town of Gonzales has some interesting history, but it doesn't exactly draw crowds of tourists. 

That's why it was easy to park right in front, near the side entrance. It looked neat and tidy and I was curious to see what a small town, boutique hotel was like.

​Lobby
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By Day 3, Don and I had already tested the post-pandemic travel waters. Actually the pandemic did not end, when the 2 of us got vaccinated. So for this trip, we just put on our masks whenever we headed inside anywhere. It's easier to just wear them, than to waste time overthinking mask usage.

The owner Tiffany, was working behind the desk when we arrived. Her name sort of fit the style of the decor. That doesn't make sense. There were no Tiffany lamps. But Tiffany did decorate with some festive colors and appealing mirrors and lamps.

Ladies Hotel?

The lobby had a Ladies Spa feel about it. No criticism there. It just felt like a  Boutique Hotel that was catering to women. That's really sexist. But I think there probably are more women who find boutique hotels and B & Bs appealing.

Luckily Don doesn't cringe at either, like some men. Like me, he's just happy when old buildings are preserved. And we appreciated it even more when we talked to Tiffany and heard her story of moving here 5+ years ago and being passionate about preserving some history. It was nice to hear her enthusiasm about the town and how its improvements.

Men in the Hall
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Tiffany showed us to the small elevator. As we stepped inside, she cringed at some muddy footprints on the carpet. She made a comment about the oil men who were renting some rooms, then headed off to get a vacuum.

We got off on the second floor. I didn't spot any Antiquing Ladies or Bunco Gals, but we did greet a couple of the very polite men, wearing boots with caked mud from the oil fields. They left a little behind on Tiffany's carpet, near the coffee station. Moments later, we could hear Tiffany's vacuum.  

​Room 2
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The inn has 14 rooms and we got the prize room. We aren't usually able to afford the best room in a hotel, but this was just over 100 bucks!

I love a corner room, especially when there's a rounded window.

From the Street

Our corner room faced the southeast. 

We had a total of 5 tall windows. 3 facing the stoplights and the 2 arched windows to the left.

Modern Decor

​This photo better shows the rounded wall. I'm guessing this was once office space on the second floor. Bank President?

Sometimes I like authentic and sometimes I'm happy with modern updates. The new carpet (no mud) and modern king bed, bedside tables and TV, were all welcome.

Window Views
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Our rounded window looked out towards the town square. The streetlights and wires, were the first thing we saw.

I didn't get a photo of the "Come and Get It" bar across the street. Much further away, we could spot the courthouse, which is pretty impressive when you get a closer look.

Another View
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There was a tall window in the bathroom. When the thick velvet drapes were pulled we had a different view.

This Madonna and Child would have been a jolt, if I hadn't noticed it when we parked. It was actually a sweet thing to see.

Long Bathroom
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The bathroom was curiously long and narrow. I really loved having the bench for my stuff. 

All was very clean and roomy. 

Lazy Dinner

Our dinner was just an elevator ride away. La Bella Tavola was right below us. 

Don picked up our pasta sampler dinner and we ate in our room. I'm kind of sad we skipped eating in the dining room. That was the original bank space and I missed out on an opportunity for snooping. I love peeking around and comparing the then and now.

Morning

The town went to sleep early, so we slept well in our room on the square. We got up early and wandered in the cooler morning temps.

The giant "Come and Take It" flag was waving as we passed. This was a reminder that Gonzales is the home to the first battle of the Texas Revolution. It was 1835, when the Mexican army demanded Gonzales return the cannon they'd given the community, few years before. The Texans refused and a flag like this, greeted 100 Mexican soldiers when they arrived in Gonzales. Sounds like a movie! Maybe there is one?

Come and Crepe It

Our B & B offered breakfast, but we had to Go and Take It at a breakfast cafe a few doors down.

Tiffany and her husband Alex, recently opened this cute breakfast place just a few steps away from the hotel. The building is from the 1800's. Older than the Dilworth building. It was cozy and comfy, with its twinkly lights.

Alex

Alex made our crepes and it was fun watching. He was very chatty and personable, while he did some pouring and swirling and spinning and flipping. That means he really knew what he was doing. I can't talk and cook.

We could have chosen omelets or other breakfast treats, but Don and I both wanted the crepe experience. Don had the Prestige, with smoked salmon. I of course had to try the Come and Take It, with chicken, bacon, mozzarella, creamy dill and BBQ sauce! Both were delicious!

Around Town
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We walked off breakfast, by wandering around the main square and a little further.

We window shopped and peeked in at the old jail. We spotted King's Service Station, that's been run by the same family since it opened in 1940. I found some old houses that I wouldn't mind living in and I eyed some antique stores that I'll visit next time. It was a nice way to end our visit.

What's Notable?

This town of around 7,000, doesn't have a whole lot going on. We didn't really need to stay more than a night.

But I'm glad we stopped. It was nice to feel comfy and safe in our second floor room, looking down on the old town. I liked being able to park on the street and walk to breakfast. I liked that it wasn't noisy at night. (maybe weekends?) I liked that our hosts were enthused about their inn and restaurant and the town of Gonzales. It was a simple little getaway that was well worth 110 bucks!

​McAllen, Texas in the Rio Grande Valley

Don and I have explored so many parts of Texas, but never anywhere in the Lower Rio Grande Valley. On May 19, we headed towards the border of Mexico in the southern end of the state. McAllen was our destination. Or at least the hotel was.

It took us twice as long to reach our destination, due to torrential rains and road closures. The sun was just peeking through, by the time we arrived.  

Why Casa de Palmas?
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We never would have known about this old hotel, if years ago we hadn't spotted it in our vintage cookbook. The 1950 recipe below the image, didn't lure us. Sliced Breast of Turkey Mornay on Toast. Ugh.

But the water color image looked festive. When I saw it in the book, I went straight to the internet and breathed a sigh of relief. The old hotel was still in business! When we arrived last week, I breathed a sigh of relief to see the palms. I expected damaged or dead palms, since Texas lost so many in the February 2021 Freeze. These palms had been recently freshened up and showed new life! 

Since 1918

I was thrilled to see the 103-year-old, mission/Spanish revival-style building. It looked to be in good shape. So often historic hotels in smaller towns and cities, just don't get the support and care they need.

The exterior looked similar to the illustration, although the palms were taller. As we carried our bags from the car, I could hear a train on the nearby tracks. That was a good reminder of the tourists and traveling salesmen who used to come to McAllen, by way of train.
 
Courtyards
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As we approached the front entrance, we passed two courtyards. The dining and fountain areas looked very tropical and inviting.

I paused to read a sign about the history of Casa de Palmas. Shortly after the hotel opened, it became a refuge for most of McAllen's residents, when the Corpus Christi Storm hit, in 1919. It's hard to imagine this hotel as a storm shelter, filled with frightened families. 

Lobby Stairs
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The first thing I spotted when we entered, was the twirling staircase, disappearing into the second floor. Ironwork and blue and white tile!

Recent renovations made the lobby very welcoming. New paint and modern furniture and fixtures. The big fat columns and Satillo-tiled floors, were impressive reminders of the past. I wish I could find interior photos from when Marlon Brando and Anthony Quinn stayed here in 1952. That was when director, Elia Kazan set up headquarters at the hotel, for the filming of Viva Zapata. 

Lobby Bar

At the opposite end of the lobby, there was lots of lounging space. 

At 4:30 there were a few guests enjoying drinks. They were seated and not wearing masks, so it reminded me of pre-pandemic travel. However the staff and all the guests coming and going, consistently wore face masks. I was happy with that.

 
Spacious Room

I was excited to check out our room on the third floor. It was gloriously large, after our night before at Tarpon Inn, in Port Aransas.  

For $119. + tax, I couldn't complain. There was lots or space and large TV and couch area. There had been some paint and decor updates. The bed was comfy, but it looked like it had been made up by a rushed or cranky teenager. (I'm not showing the bad side) 

Beams & Brick

I liked seeing some of the original structure. Our little sitting area had exposed beams and painted brick walls. You don't see brick in hotels much. Not sure why there were 2 refrigerators.

After our tiny bath the night before, we were thrilled to have 2 sink areas and a tub for me. I should have been thrilled for a bath at all. In 1918, only half of the 60 rooms had baths. 

Cowboy Style

I would have preferred Spanish or Mexican style decor, to match the building. However, there was a little Western flair going on behind the bed. The floating cowboy hat art was actually sort of interesting! The photos online showed cowboy pillows. I wonder if the previous guests liked it too much and stole ours.

It was nice having a set of double doors, opening to a large balcony. We actually kept the door closed, due to bugs and birds.

Balcony & Pool

I would have loved sitting on the balcony, with its view of the pool. But some nesting birds made the space a little dirty. The patio chairs weren't inviting. They looked like they had been snatched from a conference room. Maybe the next renovation project will focus on balconies.

The pool below could have been all ours, if we'd thrown on some suits...

Happy Hour

Instead of pool time, we decided to find the perfect spot for Happy Hour. The bar/lounge had lots of room, but not the perfect vibe for our moods.

Pandemics and masks, make chatting with others less desirable. And the men studying their cell phones didn't appeal either.

Perfect Porch

So we ordered 2 glasses of wine at the bar and took our drinks with us.

There was a common porch area on the third floor, looking down on the courtyards. There were a few comfy seats left, but the man with a bottle of tequila at the other end, kept us searching for a better spot.

Second Floor

We spent a little while on the second floor balcony. We were intrigued by a big tree, which looked like it was struggling to recover from the big freeze.

I looked up the tree later and it's an African Sausage Tree. We need to come back when we can see its flowers and sausage shaped fruits. Don encouraged me to pose with the ropey vines... since I was wearing a striped shirt. Good eye, Don!

Chairs with a View

Don and I sat on the balcony and studied the palms through the arch. We liked our cushioned chairs so much, we searched for a tag and Googled the brand. Wow! Those are super expensive chairs!

Then we took our wine to the lowest level and enjoyed some people watching. The hotel van arrived repeatedly with airline pilots and flight attendants. They wore their masks and uniforms and rolled their bags to the lobby. I have a feeling the majority of guests during our stay, were
connected to the airlines.

Dinner in the Spanish Room

I peeked in the newly renovated dining room earlier. 

It looked very different than the dark dining decor that I spotted on the internet. 

Feast for Two

We returned at 7:30. There was only one other couple dining when we arrived. Our cozy booth made it feel like we had the place to ourselves.

The food was pretty amazing. I had Chef Ari's ravioli of the night, which was stuffed with Osso Bucco. Don got the catch of the day, salmon. We were surprised with complimentary salads, since the wait for our food was a little slow.

Cookbook Posing
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​The best part of our evening was pulling out the old cookbook to share with the chef and our waiter Oscar. How fun that this cookbook inspired our visit to Casa de Palmas... and that Ari and Oscar were amused by that.

Oscar and I decided to pose with our masks down, since we both were vaccinated. Oh the world is feeling better!

Enjoying the Night

After dinner, Don and I wandered a bit and enjoyed the glow...

The moon was pretty above the palms. The strings of lights, looked festive on the dining patio.

Glowing Pool

The pool looked pretty at night. Again, not a person in sight.

My photo didn't capture the colorful spotlights very well.

From Our Room

I stepped out onto the balcony one more time. The balmy evening and the pool and palms, made me feel like we were on a little getaway to Mexico.

And we practically were. The Mexican border was just 5 miles from our hotel.

What's Notable?

We drove a long way, to stay at this historic oasis and it was worth it. The room and restaurant prices were very decent. The lobby and restaurant felt remarkably classy for this small city.

As usual, it's the connection to history that I adore. I'll remember sitting on the porches, looking at the tropical vegetation and imagining the guests from the past who stayed here... in 1920 or 1950.

​Cheers to all the people who keep these historic treasures from disappearing.