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First Time This was our first visit to the City of Palms. Sadly we had less than 24 hours to enjoy.  Our reason for the Fort Myers stop, was to see family. Our welcoming stay at Hibiscus House, ended up making me extra eager to return. Palms I lived in Tallahassee as a kid, but never made it to the City of Palms.  Actually I didn't even know about that nickname when we drove into the city, on McGregor Blvd. The historic boulevard was lined with Royal Palms. Evidently 1,800 of them! Hibiscus B&B on the Boulevard Our cozy House-Turned-B&B-Oasis was waiting for us, right on McGregor.  The Florida pine house looked quaint and homey, under those towering palms. Over a Century Old We learned later that the house was built in 1912... or 1923 depending on what you read. The home however was not built at this Mc Gregor Blvd location, (south side of the Caloosahatchee River) A framed article inside the inn, explained!  The house was built by W.H.Dowling, on north side of the river. After Dowling (the owner of the successful lumber company) died in 1944, his widow Hallie had the house moved across the river. Split in Half... then Worse This 2009 article explains how the house was sawed in half and carried on barges... until both "sank in the river"!  Luckily the tide rose and freed the structures. Wow! Coffee Corner Today the white house on the corner is a B&B, with 5 guest rooms and a coffee shop.
The entrance to the Hibiscus House is on the north side. We were intrigued to see steps on the side facing Clifford Street. There were no doors at the top of the stairs, like in the old photos. 4:00 We arrived around 4. Our host had texted a few helpful tips before we parked in a tidy parking lot behind the inn.  We found a walkway to the right that took us to the east side of the house. There were 2 sets of stairs leading to second floor rooms.
Our door was tucked in beside the second set. I love second story rooms, but my lazy side on that day was happy to have only 3 steps. Flamingo Room Of course I booked the pink and turquoise room filled with flamingos! I love a colorful theme!  I counted over 20 flamingos in our room.  The comfy room had Old Florida charm, with its pine walls and ceiling, painted white.  Our room felt fresh and clean, despite the fact it was over 100 years old. I appreciated having a fridge and 2 soft chairs with a table.
... a dressing mirror and a bookcase. Even a handy door draft stopper, which could also be used for blocking light or sounds from the hall. Snazzy Bathroom I started to add another flamingo when I saw the stained glass in the bathroom. That's actually a heron, but it was a colorful & tropical addition!
There was ample space for holding "stuff". And the deep bath with jets was another added treat for me. Stepping Outside It was nice having a door to the hall, plus another door to slip out of easily, for a walk, or a trip to the car.
There was a sitting space just steps from our room. I explored and noticed that all the rooms had some kind of outside sitting area. That's always a plus.
This sitting space on the opposite side, was very close to a lovely hibiscus plant. I was glad to find some on the property! Interior When we opened our other door, we found a hall with more painted pine and a staircase. We learned later, that the narrow carpet covers a slight lump, where the 2 house haves came back together after their river journey.
Right beside our door was a welcoming surprise. Words on a blue sign invited us to borrow towels or sunscreen products, if we were going off for a beach day. Even a "Boogie Board" was available. What a generous gesture from our hosts! Reunion Time At 6:30 Don and I slipped off to meet my Uncle Dave and my cousin and her son.  We drove just a few miles south on McGregor and suddenly found ourselves at a table with this sweet trio. Dinner at Christoph's. This is what the whole roadtrip detour to Ft Myers was all about. It couldn't have worked out better. Peaceful Night Once we were back at the Hibiscus House, I regretted having only one night.
Our little reunion had been far too short. And I could have happily enjoyed this pleasant peaceful house for a few more nights. Hibiscus Latin Cafe Early the next morning, I could smell coffee brewing. The little coffee shop in front, was open for business.  What had once been a sunroom, had recently become a coffee shop with Cuban-inspired flavors. The evening before I snapped a photo after it closed.  Don and I headed out of our room at 8:00 and there were a few locals placing orders. Complimentary Breakfast Don and I found a table in the breakfast room next to the coffee shop.  We had the place to ourselves and felt pretty delighted to have quite a few options with our breakfast. Chatting with Lisette After we helped ourselves to coffee and juice and an assortment of breads, yogurts, meats and cheeses, we met our host, Lisette.  Lisette let us know that as guests we were welcome to place a complimentary order from the coffee shop as well. I so wish we hadn't already filled up. The smells of coffee and Cuban pastries and sandwiches were tempting. But we'd already satisfied breakfast craving. We chatted instead.  It was nice to get some of the inside scoop about our hotel from Lisette. She purchased the hotel with her husband and daughter in 2023. They've done an amazing job of restoring the property. Less Than an Hour We had less than an hour before we needed to hit the road. After hearing from Lisette about the Historic River District surrounding H House. I had to give myself a quick tour.  I threw on my running shoes and crossed Clifford Street and headed down McGregor to catch a glimpse of the historic winter estates of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford! On my way back to H House, I detoured a couple blocks to see the Caloosahatchee River! So much to see within a couple miles of our inn. What's Notable? This historic little house was absolutely perfect for our needs. Charming, clean, quiet and comfy along with great history and a convenient location.  I'm so glad we got to meet Lisette, who made us even more appreciative of this little gem, in such a great little city! We need to come back and enjoy a longer visit next time!
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Beachside Hotel in Sarasota Last April, Don and I made a detour on a trip, so I could spend time in Sarasota and stay at this unique beachside hotel.  Planning beachside anything is always a win. But I was plain eager to just spend the night in Sarasota. I have fond memories of childhood summers spent in this fabulous Circus Town! The Cirque & Circus Decor In 2025 I heard about the freshly renovated hotel, with the long name. I was drawn to the French word for circus! I love a good circus theme anytime, anywhere. But the idea that this hotel's decor was inspired by Sarasota's connection to Ringling Bros. Circus, made it all extra intriguing. The town became the winter home to the Ringlings and their circus, in the 1920s.  I read about the hotel's sophisticated circus-themed design. "Art Deco Meets the Big Top." They did it well! Nothing kitschy. No creepy clown figures or sawdust. Guests don't need to be big circus fans (like me) to relax in the lobby, restaurant or guest room. Location The hotel's location was a huge plus. It was just a short walk from the upscale shops and restaurants at St. Armands Circle. The St. Armands district was actually developed by circus magnate John Ringling, in the 1920s.  Location to Lido Beach was even closer! Holiday Inn Postcard The 7-story hotel first opened as a Holiday Inn, in 1970. In this image you can see the pool beside the parking lot and an entrance facing the wide sandy beach.  The exterior doesn't look over-the-top fancy, but I would have loved it if my family had been able to stay here when we visited in the '60s and '70s. Most of our memories involve worn out motels near Sarasota Bay. Changes When Don and I arrived at the hotel last April, the building looked pretty similar to the image on this postcard. However, they no longer have a 7th floor restaurant.  There is no drive-up area facing the beach. And there's certainly no iconic neon Holiday Inn sign. Finding Cirque In fact we never found a sign at all. (coming later maybe) But GPS guided us through a beautiful neighborhood, directly to a parking lot facing away from the gulf.  We walked up the ramp through some pleasant landscaping. The building looked fresh and attractive. I could see the top floor restaurant had been turned into guest rooms. Greeters! There were no doormen or valets, but we saw some other greeters wearing formal bowties.  This pair of green lions gave us a little hint that we might be stepping into a hotel filled with fun surprises.  I should have asked if these lions were given names. Lobby Once inside we were greeted by welcoming desk staff and fabulous decor.  Behind the classy looking counter, I spied lots of circus related accents. There were no funky circus collectables from flea markets. We've seen a lot of that when visiting a few overdone circus-themed hotels and restaurants. Fun at Check-In I had fun reading this sign while we checked in. I learned that my Circus Name is "Binzo The Thrilling Baton Twirler!" Silliness! I love it!  The best thing about check-in was finding out that we'd been upgraded to an ocean view! After a little more chatting at check-in, I learned that what I'd written in the comment section, (while booking online) had gotten some attention. I'd totally forgotten that I'd written anything, but then recalled my little ramble. I'd mentioned that I was excited to be staying in Sarasota for the first time since childhood... and that I was delighted about the classy circus themed decor... Jillian at the desk added, "Oh yes, we really do read and appreciate these comments!" Circus Inspired I'd seen photos on the internet, but I was blown away by the bright and creative design! The ostrich feather chandelier reminded me of costumes in the Roaring Twenties. That was when John Ringling first fell in love with Sarasota and thought of making the town the winter headquarters for the circus.  Geometric patterns on the carpets and floor, felt lively and whimsical!  The fabrics were full of circus fun! Pillows with animals... smooth velvet, reminding me of luxurious show curtains! The ceiling even felt a bit like a circus tent.
The cage-like chairs had me imagining lions! Elevator After a brief look around the lobby, we headed up in one of the 2 elevators.  If we'd gotten stuck in either elevator, I would have been thoroughly entertained with the vintage photo art! Lights & Stripes! The elevator doors opened and I stepped out grinning ! Showtime! Gotta love some bright lights!  We followed the striped carpet and paused at the Hydration Station!
There was a water dispenser, a drawer holding bags of ice, plus a bowl of oranges on the counter. All in a nicely designed little nook, off the hall! Stepping In I stepped into the room and paused again. The entryway offered a dramatic walkway towards the ocean-view balcony!
But before stepping into the room I had to admire the dressing space, holding robes and a padded bench, over a set of drawers. And more circus art of course! Calm Colors The view was enough to relax any traveler. But the soft gray and sandy brown tones in the room felt heavenly. The muted tones made the ocean blue color pop!  I appreciated all the handy "stuff" from the cushioned bench at the foot of the bed...
...to the coffee maker and refillable water containers. I of course loved the framed circus photos and the small sculpted performer. These classy tidbits kept my favorite theme alive, without overwhelming! Comfy The bed and linens were comfy and the built-in headboard was just the right amount of soft.  Besides 2 cushioned desk chairs, there was super cozy corner chair, with light. The bathroom was lovely. Bright white towels and classy black & white tile designs.
And those vintage photographs kept right on entertaining. 12 Hours Apart The balcony was the icing on the cake. The gulf-view rooms were a bit pricey, so we hadn't booked one. Yet suddenly we were looking across the road towards sand and sea.
The first photo was taken around 7:30 in the evening. The other was taken 12 hours later. Very quiet times in April! The Midway After checking out our room, Don and I headed back down and grabbed a window table at the Midway Lobby Bar.  4:00 was a little early to start Happy Hour, but we were offered complimentary cocktails with our check-in. Each champaign cocktail came with a playful surprise! An orange Popsicle!  Don gifted me his, so I had a double Popsicle beverage... which I don't recommend. After a bit of messy fumbling, my drink turned into a Mimosa. Which I guess is nothing to complain about. Games We hardly needed more entertainment, but if we got bored there were games. I spotted a wooden ring game, on top of the striped table.
A very serious looking chessboard was tempting guests to come sit and play for a couple hours. Planning Place Across the room I spotted 2 chairs facing a desk and an enormous mural of elephants. I believe this was the concierge desk where we could sit and inquire about visiting the Ringling Museums or other Sarasota attractions.
But without the conceirge, I was happy to just sit a moment and study the nearby shelves, filled with bright and tidy circus knickknacks of course. Mostly I stared at the elephants. I've spent many an hour pondering the worries of circus animals in history. But on this day I only sat and admired the incredible beasts. Post Happy Hour It was just after 6:30 when Don and I returned to the Midway. The bar's Happy Hour had ended but there was a lively crowd lingering.  I ordered the "Levitate" cocktail which included some tropical flavors... rum, coconut, banana syrup... Tasty, but I did not levitate. Don ordered a martini with his choice of olive stuffings. He went for the gherkin stuffed olives. Which maybe was an odd choice.
It became apparent that most of the Happy Hour folks around us, were locals who knew each other. They all seemed to be enjoying gourmet popcorn in cute cups. I jumped up to investigate and found a retro popcorn cart had rolled into the lobby. I was pretty excited to get a couple complimentary cups for our table! More Exploring After a while we headed for a door past the bar, to check out the pool area. I paused to admire the mini carousel inspired jars, holding drink garnishes.  The Ringmaster Poolside Bar offered a shady outdoor area.  There were quite a few guests enjoying the deck chairs.  I returned early in the morning to take photos, without intruding on lounging guests. I loved the playful yellow striped umbrellas. The cushioned lounge chairs actually looked comfortable.  The pool shape was changed during renovation. Instead of a dull rectangle, the design looks a little like 3 connected circles. Just like a 3-ring circus! I also found additional chaise lounges, down a few steps.  A nice space for guests who don't like beach sand or pool splashes. Dramatic Dinner at Ringside Long before our 7:30 dinner reservation, I stopped by to chat with Amanda, who was standing at the podium outside the restaurant.
I've never seen such velvety drama at the entrance to a dining room! Amanda was delightful. She was as enthused about the hotel's themed decor as I was. She let me have a peek behind the curtains before the Ringside Restaurant opened.  Amanda encouraged me to take a look at the table options. It was hard to pass up a cozy table nook with curtains. But I asked to book a table near a window instead. View The view would have been a little better if we'd been up a few floors. But around 8:00, I could spot the sun setting, just behind Don.  We took our time studying the menu.  Before discovering the tasty options inside, I had to admire the menu design itself. Classy and magical on the cover...  Inspiring words on the inside! "A place that forbids you to take anything seriously."  Don and I enjoyed the view along with a shared Caesar salad. Our trapeze artist friend seemed to be joining us from above. Design The decor that surrounded us made the meal extra memorable. Such an intriguing mix of vintage circus decor and luxurious furnishings.  As I absorbed flavors, I absorbed the fine decor. Circus murals and velvet and zebra fabric, stripes above and geometric shapes below!  It seems fitting that we should dine in style, since the Ringling Brothers made sure their circus staff ate on china and tablecloths in the dining tents! Onion Skillet Bread This appetizer was as over-the-top-fun as the decor was over-the-top snazzy!  Parmesan, honey whipped butter, warm asiago fondue! Don was even applauding and he doesn't love bread. I ordered Crispy Skin-on Scottish Salmon! Pan-seared, sweet potato & hazelnut hash, crispy kale, blood orange reduction!  Much more appetizing than my photo. The flavors were pretty amazing! Don's pan-seared diver scallops were mouthwatering. The festive dining room was quiet and empty by the time we finished.  We left happy! Nighttime Peek I took a quick step outside to peek at the pool before heading up to our luxurious room.  The air felt perfect. I could have slept on one of those lounge chairs. Morning In the morning I let myself explore just a little more.  I should have grabbed some coffee to enjoy the chairs and games on the west side of the building. A pedestrian walkway has replaced the old drive up entrance, so it's pleasant and quiet. Just a few steps across the street and I was on the beach. So calm!  If we'd had one more day, we would have had time to take advantage of the hotel's sister property. Just steps away, Gulf at Lido Beach Resort had lots more beach and dining options to enjoy. But it was time to head back across that white sand and pack up. What's Notable? I had my cake and ate it too, at The Cirque! I love a whimsical theme, but usually I have to give up luxury for that. Most themed hotels are weird or worn or uncomfortable. I'm almost always happy to give up luxury to enjoy a unique stay, but didn't have to here.  I loved the decor! Luxurious, tasteful decorating with playful circus woven in. Even though colors and murals and designs were bold, it was never overwhelming. The gracious staff, top notch food, the beach location and the clever decor... all in perfect balance! Like the best circus act!
Next time we will book more than one night! Retreat on the Tamiami Trail! This unique inn, sits right on Florida's Tamiami Trail. The historic road (that travels from Tampa to Miami) was completed in 1928.  The buildings that make up the boutique hotel, are actually older. All have a fun connection to the famous circus family, the Ringlings. The structures were moved by mule to this location, around the time the Trail opened. 3 Buildings There are only 5 hotel suites, in the 3 barn-shaped buildings. Some are named for members of the Ringling family. The North and South buildings sit behind the main building, which was named for Charles Ringling.  Last April, Don and I spent the night upstairs in the South Building, on the right. Connections to Ringling Circus The Charles Ringling Building faces Tamiami Trail. It was once home to Charles and Edith Ringling, back when the famous circus empire employed over 1,000 employees.  Charles and Edith Ringling lived in this modest house while their winter mansion was being built in Sarasota. Today the cozy building houses a fabulous little restaurant and the Otto Ringling Suite on the upper floor. Lots of Ringlings I've always known about John Ringling. He was the brother that got biggest spotlight out of the 5 Ringling brothers who ran the "Greatest Show on Earth". Charles and his brother John were both prominent in Sarasota in the twenties. In 1926 they moved their circus winter headquarters to Sarasota.  The 5 bros certainly looked alike with their matching mustaches. But they all had their own personalities and skills. I was curious about Otto since a guest suite was named for him. I read that he was a financial wizard and a recluse. He died in 2011 and possibly never even came to Sarasota. I've no idea why the upstairs room has his name. Who's on the Porch? When we ate dinner during our stay, I spotted this framed photo near our table. I wondered if this was one of the Ringling women.  Our server didn't know, but I recognized the front porch. It matched the picture I took of the main building. This photo (from the '20s or '30's?) surely can't be Edith. She was born in 1869. Their daughter Hester? Or could she have been a circus performer who lived on the property once it was moved and housed circus staff. Another Glimpse This photo (with white paint and picket fence!) was also near our dining table. It made me wonder more about the property and the folks who once lived here.  What were the other 2 buildings used for? Where were the 3 buildings before moving? Near Sarasota Bay, where Charles and Edith's mansion was being built? R for Ringling? This photo shows 2 of the 3 buildings. I can see an "R" on the window awning attached to the Charles Ringling building.  If they went to the trouble to personalize the awning, this must have been more of a home to Charles & Edith, than some temp housing situation. Location My family visited Sarasota many times in the '60s & '70s. My memories of the Tamiami Trail, are all about old Florida style motels. Mom & Pop motor courts with pastel paint and neon signs. Cement seahorses... Funny, I don't at all remember ever seeing this trio of structures.  In 2026, the Tamiami Trail seems very different. The Reserve Retreat sits on a very tidy part of the Trail, next to an attractive roundabout. The location is incredibly convenient to downtown, museums, bay etc. Cozy Cluster Since the buildings were moved about a century ago, they've been used in numerous ways. A boarding house and circus performance venue... I also read that it became a bordello at some point. Who knows?  In later years, the structures housed a family photo studio and a dress shop, an art gallery and a residential tenement of some kind. The property sat vacant for at least a decade before becoming a boutique hotel. Just this past year, the property was nicely spiffed up with new ownership. Outside Dining When we arrived on a Monday afternoon last April, I noticed a woman putting out tablecloths. The outside dining space looked inviting.  We had dinner reservations for 7:00. I'd read many good things about the Italian chef who would be preparing our meal. Chef Antonio. Check-In It was around 4 when we arrived for our stay. I'd been instructed to find our key in a mailbox outside the North Building.  I'm fine with self check-in, but I was pleased when one of the new owners pulled up in the nearby parking lot. He introduced himself as Flavio. (I hope I got that right) He was very welcoming and we had a wonderful chat on many subjects. The historic property... how Florida compares to his home in Italy... renovations. I told him how I'd always had a passion for circuses and for Sarasota... The Circus Capital! I let him know how much I appreciated how they were preserving the property's history. Mable Ringling Suite Flavio pointed out the North Building, which held 2 rooms with typical B&B names. Bayside Bliss and Reserve Retreat. Then we walked to the South building and he opened the door to a staircase. Don and I would be staying in the room was upstairs, right above the Charles Ringling Suite.
I'm a circus fan, so I was happy to have a room named for a Ringling. But I'm curious why it was named for Mable. She was actually married to Charles' brother, John. I had a lot of questions about the name choices, but I didn't bother Flavio with my endless ponderings. Mable's Suite I loved the homey feel of our spacious suite. It took over the entire upper level of the building.  There were a few reminders that the building was about a century old. Sections of the floor looked original.  I have no clue what Charles and Edith used this building for in the 1920s. It could have been an apartment for a relative. Maybe there was a refrigerator up here... but certainly not a microwave or a coffee maker. I was glad to have them, along with bottled water and snacks.  The decor in the room was a tiny bit dated, but it was comfy, spotless and peaceful. Windows! We had lots of them! One window gave us a view of the barn-like home where Charles and Edith once lived.
Two more windows looked towards the house next door, with growth so thick we couldn't spy on neighbors. Another window was hidden behind a curtain at the head of the (very comfy) bed.
Another window filled the bathroom with light. I love a bright bathroom. Reserve Restaurant I spent a number of childhood summers living in Sarasota. I loved living in a town where performers and animals once lived and trained in the winters. It was fun to know that Don and I would be dining in a home, where members of the famous circus family dined over 100 years ago.  At 5 pm I headed to the main building to peek at the restaurant. The home's original front entrance was no longer in use. We would sit beside those doors at dinner later. Restaurant at 5:00 Near the patio area I found the entrance. There were quite few dining guests, in the 3 cozy rooms. The restaurant opens at 4:30 and plenty were taking advantage of early dining.  Through a set of doors I could spot the home's staircase. A man was sitting nearby, at the table that would later be ours. Other Spots There are less than 10 tables in 3 small areas. The table for 2 by the old fireplace looked cozy.
A small room on the north side held 3 tables. Did Charles and Edith spend much time in this sunny room? Did they really get to relax when they wintered in Sarasota? Hope so! They both traveled with the circus the rest of the year. Happy Hour There was no lounge in the Reserve Restaurant, but I chatted with a very gracious server who said we were more than welcome to make use of the sitting area on the dining patio,  Don and I brought our own beverages from the room and enjoyed the people watching. Most of the diners coming and going seemed to be around our age or older. The guests all seemed to be retirees. Not tourists, but in-the-know locals. I had to chuckle at my childhood memories of Sarasota retirees. My siblings (and I) used to snicker about all the oldsters in their Bermuda shorts and silly sunglasses. But Sarasota Seniors have changed over the years. These folks looked like they might be inclined to talk about current art or Peace Corps memories, rather than golf and bridge. Or maybe I'm seeing things differently now... since these oldsters are my peers. Our Funny Space We arrived at 7 and were seated at the sweet little table at the bottom of the stairs.  It was odd to be between the main dining room and the kitchen, but I think it was the best space. There were vintage photos displayed nearby, that made me long to step back in time. I would love to experience Sarasota before the 1960s, when Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus still wintered each year.
Our table location also gave us a good peek into a room filled with wine. Noises from the kitchen were entertaining. The music playing in the kitchen was actually enjoyable and the voices (Italian I believe) were upbeat and lively. Antonio Our special seat gave us an opportunity to catch Chef Antonio at one point.  I was happy to let him know I'd read so many great reviews about his restaurant. He seemed happy that I'd chosen his Special of the Day, not on the menu. Food & Drink Before our food arrived, we enjoyed some wine and incredibly tasty bread, served in a warm paper bag. Don was happy with his Mediterranean choice. Grouper Livornese, with cherry tomatoes, black olives, capers, onion and garlic!
I can't recall the name of my special dish, but it could have fed 4! Tortellini with a creamy meat sauce! Kind of like a hearty stroganoff! Both meals were excellent. Good Ending Our 2 busy servers were fantastic. Both women I believe were Italian. I wish we'd had more time to chat. The 2 women may have been part of the new ownership.  We were given some complimentary shots of Grappa, before our bill came in a fun cigar box. Just another fun detail. Walking Off Dinner Our hotel may have been right beside a fairly busy road, but it felt safe and quite pretty, when we walked around after dinner. 
As the sky grew darker, we walked back into the neighborhood behind the hotel. We popped back out near the roundabout. In the center of the circle, an impressive sculpture glowed against a dramatic sky. Morning Walk In the morning I had a got out for a 30-minute walk and discovered 2 nearby parks.
What a treat on a pleasant April morning, to find 2 fine views of Sarasota Bay. Ringling Mansions After checking out of our hotel with all its Ringling family connections, we drove 2.5 miles to tour Ca' d'Zan, which is the glamorous mansion built by Charles' brother. John and Mable completed their 56-room winter home around the same time Charles and Edith moved into theirs.
While wandering the lovely grounds around the mansion, we spotted a grand home next door. I hadn't known before that the mansion Charles and Edith had built, was next door to his brother's. It's now owned by New College, so not a museum. New College We later drove to the front of the mansion, now called College Hall. The security guard welcomed us in to look around. I had fun telling the guard that my brother had gone to the experimental private college back when New College was indeed new.
It was fun to see some of the grand rooms, especially the music room, with its enormous organ. Sadly Charles lived less than a year after moving into their new home. Edith and and family lived on the property many years longer. I was surprised to learn that she played an important role in running the circus. I kind of wish our hotel suite had been named for Edith. What's Notable? I didn't exactly know what to expect with our stay. It was confusing trying to book, since ownership had changed. The new website wasn't up yet and information was difficult to get. I kept expectations low.  But I was thrilled when we pulled up and found the buildings and landscape looking fresh. The staff was pleasant and professional. The dining experience was lovely. (Antonio has been chef here for many years)
Our cozy inn property almost felt like a country estate in New England... with palms. I would have enjoyed myself just fine at this homey hotel, even if there'd been no Ringling connection. (Most guests aren't as obsessed about hotel history or circus history) But knowing our hotel had a place in Ringling Family history, was fun and certainly notable! Old Hotel in a Florida Oyster Town! This curious old hotel, sits in an equally curious Florida fishing town.
I've wanted to be a guest, for many years. Lots of Porch I'm drawn to all historic hotels, so that's nothing new. I'm also drawn to porches, so of course The Gibson would attract me.  But I was extra curious about this hotel, because of what my mom once told me. Mom said that long ago, her daddy stayed at The Gibson while doing some kind of work. My grandfather worked for the Public Transport Authority of St. Louis, so I can't imagine why he spent time at this Florida hotel, back before WWII. I love staying at hotels with a personal twist. Seafood Festival in the 1960's This is how the inn looked in the late 1960's, which is about the time I remember visiting Apalachicola, with my family. By the sixties, the hotel had been vacant for decades, but we had come for the day, to experience the Seafood Festival.
It was 1967 and my family had just moved to Tallahassee from Iowa. Eager to jump into our new gulf culture, my parents ushered the 4 kids to the car and drove to the town with the funny name, for a little oyster fun. I was pretty disgusted by all the oyster hoopla. There were competitions for shucking and eating. I grimaced at my parents' enthusiasm. I was intrigued by the eerie mountain of oyster shells, near the shucking table. I was 10 and had no interest in eating the slimy things, but I proudly wore my blue seahorse pin. Arriving in January This past January, Don and I spent the last night of a 2+ week road trip in the little town known as, The Oyster Capital of Florida.
We drove on Gorrie Bridge, over the Apalachicola Bay and suddenly, there it was! Looking Good The hotel looked pretty well cared for when we pulled up and parked right in front. The business recently had changed hands and renovations were underway.  The renovations had nothing to do with Hurricane Michael, which caused devastation to parts of the town. Luckily the hotel was spared. Since 1907 It was about 5, when we arrived and headed through the lobby to check in. I liked the wallpaper and logo, behind the desk. It made me wonder about the wallpaper back n 1907.  It also made me wonder about those Gibson Sisters, who bought the hotel in 1923. They must have felt "mighty grand" back then... which are words my grandmother would have used in 1923. The sisters were 2 women, with enough spunk to buy The Franklin Hotel and change the name to their own. "Pretty bold!" is what I say, in 2019! Beams and Pillars  The lobby was welcoming with its dark polished pillars and ceiling beams. Our girl at the desk wasn't too chatty, so I wasted no time asking questions about the history. Old Photo  Instead, I found a photo in the hall that let me glimpse back in time. I could see the same rounded desk and woodwork. More Lobby Wood Besides oysters, Apalachicola had an important history as a cotton and timber port.  The hotel itself was built with local cypress and heart pine, which was also shipped down the Apalachicola River. Cats at the Hotel I love a hotel with a resident cat or dog, since I sometimes I need a pet fix while on the road.  The Gibson used to have be a beloved, black cat, but I only saw this spotted cat... too high for patting. Hall of History The hall beside the stairs was filled with historic photos of the town and hotel. The back hall was dark (without my camera flash) and blocked by chairs, due to renovations.  The girl at the desk said she had no idea how to turn on the lights, so I studied a few pictures in the front. More Antiques I glanced around at some of the antiques... a clock here and interesting light holders there.
As I wandered, I became aware that most of the people we'd seen coming in and out of the lobby, were men. They weren't looking around like me and they didn't exactly look like tourists. Up the Stairs A few men wearing reflective vests, headed into the bar.  As we carried our bags up the stairs we followed two other men, carrying tools. Luckily our stay did not involve the sounds of saws or hammers! Second Floor Our room was on second floor.
Besides the workmen, we never saw another guest. Old Door Old Room We opened the door with its dented, brass knob and discovered a corner room, with windows looking out on the porch.
At a glance, the simple rustic decor nearly had a spiffed up Pottery Barn look. Closer Inspection It actually didn't take a close inspection at all, to see the age of the hotel in the woodwork near the bathroom.
There must have been a hundred coats of white and green paint over the wooden walls, ceilings and pipes. Cozy Bed The bed looked kind of cozy with the 2 sconces and farmhouse canopy bed. (Actually it looked more comfy than it was.)
The corner to the left of the bed, was oddly narrow. I do love a room with an unusual shape! Layers of Paint Some might have been put off by all those lumpy-layered walls. I liked them. And I liked the worn floor boards, a whole lot better than the worn carpet on the bed-side of the room. The painted wood made me feel like I was a character in a book. Tom Sawyer and Pollyanna, probably had walls like these.
I had my own, oddly painted walls in my childhood bedroom. As a kid, I loved staring up from my pillow at the drippy textures, searching for the familiar cartoonish faces and figures. My wall images never disappeared, like the moving cloud shapes, that I also adored. The Parlor Bar The Parlor Bar was fairly quiet, when we stopped in to grab some drinks at 6. The cozy bar had been a lot livelier at 5, when I popped in to get some ice. Shawn, the bartender handed me a bag, then requested 5 dollars. A couple men chuckled, nearby.  After a little playful teasing about the ice, (which was free) I was able to find out some local scoop about Hurricane Michael. It turns out that all the men I'd been seeing, were temporary residents, still involved in October's storm clean up. Searching for a Spot Every good hotel has a cozy spot for relaxing with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine. If there's a porch, Don and I will make use.
The Gibson had so many choices, with porches on both levels, wrapping all around the hotel. We wandered with our drinks looking for the perfect spot. We even found an area in the center, with a view of the cupola, spotlighted by the evening's sun. West Side We chose Adirondack chairs over rockers. It was a hard choice, but those flat arms made good tables.
I had to wrap in my blanket poncho as the temps dropped with the sun. We faced the west, where the sun disappeared fast, behind houses. The Franklin We were a month too early to dine in The Franklin dining room. It was expected to reopen in February.  We headed back to the Parlor Bar and had a good chat with more locals about the hurricane recovery. I asked Shawn about the hotel's history and told him that my grandfather had stayed for a period, in the 1930's or '40's. He paused, then spoke. "Maybe you're sleeping in the same room where your grandfather slept." That could have been an eerie thought... but I liked it. Morning in the Parlor Bar No, we didn't suddenly wake up at the bar, it just looks that way.  The night before, we left the hotel bar and found some good shrimp and oysters on Main Street. After sleeping well in our cozy room, we came down in the morning, for complimentary breakfast.... back in the Parlor Bar. The atmosphere was odd. Liquor bottles were piled up on the bar and workmen were getting ready to paint. But the coffee smelled good and there were a few breads and yogurts to choose from. Music in the Morning Best of all there was live music. Cadillac Jack was not performing at the bar, he was just a guest who loves the hotel and loves to play his guitar. He was one of those people who can carry on a great conversation, while making some impressive sounds.
We 3, had the best time visiting and sipping coffee. Jack showed us his guitar skills with some Stevie Ray Vaughan and shared his vocal skills with some George Harrison. C Jack moved to the porch with his banjo, as we were packing up to leave. What's Notable? The Gibson is still here. That is pretty notable, since the town has weathered some hurricanes and worrisome troubles, related to disappearing oysters. I'm just grateful that the community and recent owners have worked hard to keep it!
I'm so glad we stayed before more improvements. I'd rather have our thickly, painted walls and dented brass knob, than spas and fitness rooms. The cozy bar was welcoming and memorable. The porches were pleasant, even if I shivered a little. And I had the fun of wondering about my Grandpa Carl and his stay, years ago. Next time... we'll allow for more time to explore the town!
The Pink Palace of Florida  Coming up the long, brick drive towards this grand hotel, was pretty impressive. Island Hotel It was also impressive seeing this green and pink image, when we crossed the bridge to the island. It made me wonder about all the travelers who were drawn to the hotel when it first opened, in the height of the Jazz Age.
I'm guessing, those high society guests came by boat and probably brought trunks of dressy clothes. Ahhh, the life! Since 1928 Thomas Rowe's glamorous hotel, with its blend of Moorish and Mediterranean styles, has changed little since the Roaring Twenties.
The arches and red clay roofs, the balconies, pink stucco and towers, were all there when guests like F. Scott Fitzgerald and Clarence Darrow came to mingle with the elite. The Not So Elite Guests Arrive Don and I arrived, as the least elite guests of The Don Cesar. We had booked the cheapest room and we chose self-parking over valet.
While Don took the car, I stepped down the stairs and headed to the desk on the right. As I got checked in, I spotted a tray holding some champagne flutes and some kind of pink beverage. But, suddenly the eager bellman was ready to show me to the room. Rats. We missed out on the welcome cocktail. Or, were we not elite enough? The Staff Even though we didn't valet park, the valet staff and those who handled our baggage were by far the friendliest in the whole hotel.  Our bellman proudly shared that he had been working the job for over 40 years. Another good humored fellow, happily posed for my camera at the top of the stairs. Arches and Glass Heading to the elevator I took in the hall decor.  I loved the repeating arches and the modern glass light fixture.  This hallway with endless palms and glowing fixtures, made me feel like I was looking into a set of tricky dressing room mirrors... allowing me to see forever! Blue and White Glass When an historic hotel goes modern on me, I appreciate it when they at least fill the space with appealing decor.
The hotel's refreshingly cool salt blue and sand colors. definitely appealed to me. I especially loved the wall and ceiling lights with their dangling blue and white glass! Fourth Floor The elevator took us to the 4th floor.  All was quiet, clean and modern. The Halls Long Ago Our hall was wide and well lit. It was pretty hard to tell that we were inside a 91-year-old hotel. That's not a bad thin, but I love being able to visualize the past.
I wish there had been photos of the hotel in its prime, or when it became a military hospital during WWII, or a Convalescent Center after the war. I would even like to have seen photos when it was abandoned and covered in graffiti. Our Beach-y Room We ended up with 2 beds and a view of the parking lot.  But no complaints. The room was fresh with its sea-green and white decor.  There are worse views. We were able to look over the parking lot and see the bridge over the bay. We could also see the palace-pink stucco and spy into another room, if we were so inclined. Best of all, we saved about 50 bucks, by not needing an ocean view.
I liked the arched opening to the bath/dressing area.
The framed vintage photos gave us a few glimpses to the past. There showed guests on shuffleboard courts and others enjoying some lawn bowling entertainment. No Cornhole games, back then, but we saw some on the beach, later. Mystery Robes Before our bellman left, he showed us around the room. He seemed concerned that we had no robes. He said we should call the desk, so I did. The woman seemed terribly surprised. Were we sure? Had we checked the closet? She seemed a bit skeptical, but I assured her that the bellman had noticed... just in case she thought we (budget travelers that we are) were stashing some robes to take home.
She said 2 robes would be delivered. We left the room a while and returned to find a heap of white fabric dropped on the chair. We were perplexed and took a picture. A different woman at the desk, agreed that the delivery seemed odd... even a little passive aggressive. She promised to take care of it. Later, we found wrinkled robes hanging, properly in our closet. I found the whole robe thing creepy. It was easier to tolerate the thought of a hotel poltergeist, than a grumpy or drunk employee. Enough About Robes! Actually, Don and I didn't care a hoot about the robes.  We cared about the sunshine and 80 degree temps that called to us from the beach and pool area!  On a weekday in January, there were plenty of chairs around the two pools. Long Ago We headed out to the beach, but we didn't get in the water like these fellows.  It was fun comparing the building in this old photo to the hotel today. Most of the towers and structures looked just the same. Today, there's an added tower on the back, hiding an open air stairwell. Sunbathers Today Too bad Don didn't have a black tank suit, to match the age of the hotel. But we did feel pampered, like elite guests from long ago.  At check in, we were given passes for chair and umbrella setup. When we stepped on the sand, we were graciously ushered to find a good spot, where chairs and table were arranged and towels were laid out. We were offered an umbrella, but after 2 chilly weeks of traveling, we didn't want anything blocking our sun. Don CeSar Umbrella The beach staff checked back with us to see if we'd changed our minds about the umbrella.  It was tempting, since it had Don's name on it. But we declined. The sun felt wonderful in the late afternoon! Heading Back We kept an eye on the time and headed back, before the sun got too low.  We were on the Florida gulf, after 2 weeks on the Atlantic. We were excited for sunset on a clear evening! Up in the Tower Before heading to the room, we climbed up in the tower to check out the view.  We could see the garden area below and the Spa in the building across.  We found another good spot that no one seemed to be using. The nice little terrace had a vacant seat, just made for watching the sunset.  We looked out past the pool and sand and saw the sun sinking lower. We rushed back to the room to change clothes. A Visit with The Dolphin Dressed and ready, we headed out towards the beach.  I paused to admire the smiling dolphin with his painted designs... all aglow with evening light. The Rowe Bar The Rowe Bar was raised just enough to offer a good view of the water and lowering sun.  The higher deck area had cozy cushioned seats, with small fire pits. Claiming a Spot The blue and white seats near the fire pits looked appealing, since the wind was picking up. But the 2 unoccupied upper deck areas both had reserved signs.
So, we sat behind on the patio. And just as we guessed, by the time the sun set, no one had come to claim those special spots. But we didn't care. Lovely We sat back and enjoyed our cozy couch and toasted, with our sunset martinis. Just before the sun sunk into the gulf, we stood and snapped a photo or two.  Don's was better. I snapped a one-handed shot with my Nikon, because I was talking to our daughter on the phone. That makes me sound like the kind of tourist I hate. But, we answer when our grown kids call, wherever we are. They are busy and we travel a lot. Some of our best memories from trips, involve an answered call, in an odd place... learning fun or special news that ends up flavoring our trip. We have never traveled to get away from our kids! Dinner? The air got chillier and we took our drinks into the Lobby Bar. We chatted with a fabulous bartender and a somewhat interesting couple.
We thought about the 2 lovely hotel restaurants, but ended up taking a guest's suggestion. We ordered the hotel's pizza for the room. This decision was as much about laziness, as saving money. It was a good plan. The pizza was good! A Quick Peek Before heading up to the room, I took a quick dash outside to view the hotel's grand entrance, lit up at night.  I don't rate our Notable Nights, but I do take note of how hotels look after the sun goes down. This one would get an A+. What's Notable? We finally stayed at the Don CeSar! I will remember the pastel hotel and how it stood almost arrogantly high, looking down on the beach and bay. We stayed in a hotel where movies were filmed and presidents and stars have stayed. For 3 years, the NY Yankees actually lived here, during their spring training.
The history was fun, but the warm, sugary sand was really what I was craving on that January day.Besides the robe mystery, all was good! I felt like I was getting my cake and eating it too. A curious and grand historic hotel, along with a heavenly, pampering beach!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
June 2026
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