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#203 - 21c Museum/Hotel in K.C. Missouri

9/30/2018

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Same Building, New Hotel - in Kansas City
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Don and I rarely return for a second stay at any hotel. We're just too eager  to experience all the curious places we haven't seen. But, when we heard that Hotel Savoy was reopening as a 21c Museum/Hotel, we knew this could be a whole different kind of Notable Night!
Hotel Savoy, Est. 1888
Four years ago, the entrance to Hotel Savoy was both lovely and creepy. The shiny doors and stained glass windows were splendid. The window next to the arch, hinted at something else.

However, we had a great stay in the worn out hotel. The dining was actually pretty fabulous! 

We were sad to learn, (about a month after our 2014 stay) that The Savoy had closed down, after a fire.  
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A New Look
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This is how the entrance looked when we arrived this September. (photo credit -Deborah Berke Partners)

Some of the stained glass was gone, but the entrance and  valet parking staff was very welcoming. The new hotel had only been open about 6 weeks.


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Dramatic Hall
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It was the interior changes that truly jolted me. The creepy hall that we once entered, had become a double-sided art installation, titled Linear Sky.  ​​
  
Check In
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The glowing hallway ramp took us to the "lobby" counter. The stark white walls and simple desk, sort of disappointed me. But the young men with their laptops, greeted us with much enthusiasm. It was a much friendlier check-in experience than we'd had 4 years before.
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Keep Your Eyes on the Train

As we checked in, we studied our first piece of art in the Art Museum/Hotel.
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3 trains, on 3 tracks, were mounted on the wall behind the counter. When the 3 moving trains became aligned, images on the  train cars revealed a set of eyes! Clever!

Remembering
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To the left of the desk, was a gallery space that I recognized as the reception area, where we'd once checked in. The stained glass dome was now dim, but the purple & green, glass chandelier hung brightly. It was odd to see the frosted glass behind the ornate window bars. There was no grumpy check-in clerk, this time.
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In 2014
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I chatted with the young man at the modern desk, about the changes. He agreed with me, that it was a shame to have no light coming through the old skylight. We ended up having a fun conversation and I shared my old blog write-up with him, on his laptop. He had never been in the hotel, before its renovation.
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Penguin Mascot
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I was eager to see what this whole 21c   concept was about! The idea of old properties being refurbished (in 8 cities) to exhibit art and to house and feed guests, totally pleased me. The news that these museums/hotels also housed penguin mascots, totally delighted me! 

The mascot color for the Kansas City hotel was Sky Blue and I was darn excited to find this blue penguin standing right behind me... and all over the hotel.
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​The Exhibits
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Before even finding our room, Don and I took in some of the art. There were permanent installations as well as a temporary exhibit, involving a theme of Refuge. 
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As we studied the displays on the walls, I also found myself staring at the floor's tile design, which I remember fondly... and the beams and pillars that were now painted white.

Art Upstairs
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On the second floor, music played as we wandered more gallery rooms. The paintings and films and sculptures were thoughtful and touching and often very sad. I was a little excited to see the swirling pastels on the wall, when our elevator opened to the third floor. We welcomed the colorful mood lift.

Penguins Here and There
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The sweet blue mascots were a cheerful break from the serious art. We never knew where we might find one. One blue guy rode the elevator with us. We saw another parked in front of someone's door.

Room 307
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Our Deluxe King room was full of surprises. There was no Granny decor, like 4 years ago. No window unit. No wooden coat rack. No wallpaper and lace.

Puzzling Windows

We entered our room and stepped into a hallway. The bathroom was to the right and the window on the left, faced an atrium. I spotted a skylight above and workout room, below. 
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The windows in our guest room were frosted. I had to climb a chair to get a view of the brick buildings. We could have paid more for a city view, but we were fine with the odd views. 

More Surprises
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I loved it that we had our own penguin art above our bed. Across from the bed we had a nice little set up near the TV, with a fridge and Nespresso coffeemaker. Gotta love that pink interior, sliding shelf!

"Sleep with art. We won't tell." 

​Those were the words printed on the bottom of our key packet. I took the advice and put the comical,
 Do Not Disturb Man on the door knob and lounged in bed with some art.
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There was no bible in the drawer, but there was a book beside the bed, filled with quotes from famous artists. And when I turned on the TV, it was set on a station with art films. I couldn't get away from art if I wanted to. I was pretty content, especially in my lounging robe.
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Rubber Ducky
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The bathroom was lovely, with wonderful Malin+Goetz bath amenities. But the rubber ducky in the shower, just frustrated me. There was no tub, so I gave the yellow guy a swim in the sink... which by the way is the same refurbished sink from the original hotel.
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Dining at 21c
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The new hotel has kept the Savoy name for its restaurant and lounge. However it looks nothing the same. This is how the art filled restaurant looks today. The lovely molded ceiling was hidden behind glowing, curved, panels. A penguin stood guard.

Breakfast in 2014
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Today's restaurant was once the hotel's barbershop. 4 years ago, the space was used for breakfast and we feasted beside the stained glass, on white tablecloths.  Our breakfast back then, was included with our hotel stay. Waiters in white, served everything from Oysters Rockefeller to caviar! A strange contrast to our non-luxurious hotel room.

​Savoy Grill... Now the Lounge
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Although the fire of 2014 started in the kitchen, much of the Savoy Grill was saved. I was so glad to see the dark, wood pillars and green bar stools. The tables with white linens were replaced by lounge chairs, but the feel of the place was the same.
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Cozy Nooks
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The western murals and stained glass looked just as I remembered. The cozy booths once again made me wonder about all the famous guests who sat in them since 1905... Harry S. Truman, Vincent Price, John D Rockefeller. 

The Bar in 2014
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Don and I have good memories of Savoy Grill's bar, chatting with the bartender in his bowtie. I believe his grandparents had worked at The Savoy. Maybe his grandfather waited on my table when I ate at The Savoy with my grandmother in the 1970's. Even back then, I remember feeling like I had stepped back in time, when we dined.

No Bowties Today
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There were no bowties behind the bar, but lots of suspenders and beards. It got incredibly busy and it was amazing to watch the bartender's multi-tasking skills. 

Pineapples
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The bar got livelier as the evening passed. I laughed with the woman next to me about the cute, pineapple-topped skewer, holding my olives. Don chatted with the bartender, about his pineapple arm tattoo. We were surrounded by interesting and friendly people.

Where Did the Penguins Go?

My new friend, Rashida and I decided we wanted to have a penguin join us at the bar. I offered to find us one, but the penguins suddenly seemed to be missing. We had a Penguin Mystery.
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Rashida's friend went to inquire. It seems that a Taylor Swift concert had caused the hotel to have a higher number of young people. The kids were evidently hogging the penguins! Luckily we were able to track down one penguin in the dining room and borrowed him for a while.
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Nighttime 
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Don and I kept it easy and ordered dinner at the bar. The chef did an amazing job with our simple meal of salads and burger. Before heading up to our room, we  wandered a bit, enjoying the lively feel of the hotel. I made sure to check out the glowing hall before we got in the elevator. It looked totally different. 
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What's Notable?

Our stay at this Kansas City landmark, was so different than before, it demanded a new write-up.

It's hard for me to imagine what my reaction would have been to the hotel, if I hadn't been so busy comparing every detail. So much of my enjoyment was recognizing the floors and doors and the hidden history along with all the wildly modern decor and art.
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A part of me definitely mourned the old hotel, odd as it was. But I am so grateful for the 21c renovation, bringing a whole new life and energy to a place that could have just closed forever. What will I remember most?  The whimsical stuff and of course those sweet blue penguins!
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Hotel Savoy Write-Up from 2014:
https://www.thebethlists.com/90-notable-nights/51-hotel-savoy-in-kansas-city
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#202 - "H-Inn" in Downtown KC City

9/28/2018

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The Gumbel Building from 1904
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Okay, we stayed at a Hampton Inn, in Kansas City. I barely want to admit that. But I'm a lot more okay with staying at a chain hotel, when I know that a building was saved from demolition. 

The Fancy Stuff

At first glance the 6-story, corner building did not really impress me. But apparently, The Gumbel Building was Kansas City's first large commercial office building, of reinforced concrete.  
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The concrete building didn't thrill me, until I paused to look high up. There were some mighty fancy eagles, near the top of that old Gumbel building.

​Entrance on Walnut Street
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Our valet guy patiently waited for us to gather our things. Then I paused to look up at the old light fixtures before we headed inside. That would be the last reminder, that we were staying in a 114 year old building.
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Sleek Lobby
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The lobby felt bright and modern. The stairs led down to a very nice fitness room, that I had all to myself the next morning.

​Sitting Area and Bar
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The bar area was actually very pleasant. However, Don and I ordered a drink little later and the young guy tending bar, had the TV turned to an obnoxious reality show. The blasting sounds of a drunken beach festival, filled the lovely lounge area.

​New Touches
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Our check-in seemed to take forever, so I had lots of time for eye wandering. Even though I love authentic-old, I did think the renovations were pleasing. I'm guessing the pillars may have been a part of the original office space, but I'll bet they never reflected light as they do today.
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6th Floor Room
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I asked nicely, for a room with a view. We were sent to a 4th floor room that had a view of a roof parking lot. It also had a mysterious stinky odor. When I tried to brighten the room, I discovered 3 lamps had no bulbs. I suddenly had 3 excuses for a room change. Our room on the 6th floor was better. The rolling bathroom door was a little wonky, but everything else was good.

Out the Window
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It wasn't the world's best view, but I could see the eagle, when I looked to the side! That kind of delighted me. And we had a comfy chaise lounge with a mini-desk. The bed was luxurious and the bedside tables had pull-out extensions, for those who have lots of travel clutter, like me.

Nighttime

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Our weather was lousy, but we were still able to travel on foot, to many places from our hotel. The valet guy was good about letting us know which areas were safe for walking.
I loved coming back after dark and seeing the building lit up. 

Morning

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There was a complimentary breakfast spread, that was decent enough. There were newspapers available and good seating options and I loved the large windows.
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I was a little surprised when one of the staff members broke into song. Is this a Hampton Inn thing? She sang us a welcome song, which must have taken a lot of guts, since the "audience" seemed kind of sleepy and cranky.  Her voice was good and I wonder if we were supposed to tip for that?
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What's Notable?
We stayed in a modern hotel, housed in an historic building. It was clean and fresh, but there was little character to the place.

I tried to appreciate the old details, like the century-old eagles. I attempted to relax in the modern decor. But there wasn't much that stood out, to help me remember my stay. 
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Maybe I'll try to remember the American eagles, perched outside our room. I love a hotel with an animal memory!
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#201 - The Elms Hotel & Spa

9/27/2018

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Excelsior Springs, Missouri
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Don and I arrived at this rambling, limestone hotel on a gloomy, damp September afternoon. I knew little about the hotel as we approached, except that it had been a luxurious health resort about a century ago.

Open in 1912
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I had read some cranky traveler reviews before our arrival, so my expectations weren't high. But as we walked towards the building I was excited. The price was right, the retro roof sign was welcoming and the rounded structure in front, pleased me. I'm  often easy to please. 

Outside Lounging
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Before we even stepped inside I was already checking out the porch seating. Don and I love a hotel with good outdoor lounging space, especially when storms are headed our way.

Lobby
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Honestly, I should not read hotel reviews. What were those people complaining about in their write-ups? The lobby looked fine to me, after its 20-million-dollar renovation in 2011.

The Old Stuff
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Modern light fixtures spiffed the place up, but I was glad to see lots of reminders of the past. The old cash register, the marble stairs, the classic, tile floors...
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Fireplace & Piano
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The brick and limestone fireplace looked extra cozy. Too bad the weather was still warm and muggy. And too bad we didn't have a pianist to fill the lobby with a little music. Too bad there was no in-house orchestra, like the hotel had back in the day.

A Car on the Floor
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Also in the lobby, we had a car, sitting right on the old tile.  I'm not sure if that's the kind of car Al Capone would have driven, but he was a frequent hotel guest and often hosted illegal gambling parties.

Upgrade to the 5th Floor
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Don and I had reserved a room at the cheapest rate of about $100. We were a little surprised when the woman checking us in, casually mentioned she was upgrading us to a 5th Floor Royal Experience Suite. Our elevator opened to a pleasant lounge area and then we headed down another hall, to our suite. I'm still not sure what we did to deserve the bonus!

Room 500 -The Roosevelt Suite
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What a giddy surprise to step into a sprawling suite, when we'd been expecting a room. I will admit, the carpet was a bit worn and the decor felt a little dated, but Don and I weren't complaining a bit. And to think FDR stayed in this room, when he secretly came to treat his polio in the mineral waters...

​Well Maybe Not
We had a nice plaque on the door and it hinted at FDR's stay. But we did a little more research and decided that FDR's visit to The Elms, was more folklore, than truth. 
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The Great Escape!
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Our corner room had a couple views, but I liked the one with the fire escape best. Not only could we see the pool and gardens, but we could see our escape route, if needed. It's always nice to know your emergency plans, when staying in a hotel that has burned down twice before. The first Elms Hotel opened in 1888. 

More of our Sweet Suite!
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Our living area, with 3 windows had lots of space. But there was plenty more to explore. The area leading to the bedroom, had an eating bar and wet bar with fridge, microwave and Keurig coffee maker. The bathroom was quite roomy with its marble vanity, holding 2 sinks... plus a whirlpool tub and shower!

Ahh Sleep!
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Sometimes historic hotels have smaller rooms with odd set ups, that have us fighting over the one bedside table. I will admit, Don gives in nicely when that happens, but there was no best side with this bed. Our cozy bed was tucked into an interesting wall unit with 2 closets and 2 tables...2 good lamps and numerous luxury pillows. Perfect.
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Walk Before the Rain
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The rain was headed our way, so we got out to explore the grounds. We could have had the pool to ourselves!

Gardens to Ourselves
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Staying on a weekday in September, meant we didn't have to share any of the outdoor property!  If it had started to pour, we could have dashed to the gazebo... and reenacted the scene from Sound of Music... and no one would have been around to laugh. But it still wouldn't have been pretty. Neither of us sing and I don't look like I am 16 going on 17...

​The Grounds
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The gardens and pathways were lovely, even with hazy skies. When I spotted the horse shoe pits and picnic tables and stone barbecue grill, it made me long for a family reunion. After wandering, we decided it was time to head back and find a place to relax.

Restaurant - "88 at the Elms"
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We had planned on having drinks outside, but the 2-story restaurant off the lobby looked intriguing.  

From Above
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I climbed the stairs and looked down, wondering what the restaurant looked like in the 1930's. Instead of seeing a mural featuring Al Capone, we might have spotted Al himself or "Pretty Boy" Floyd or Bugsy Moran. 

Ashley at the Bar
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Don and I had drink at the bar before dinner, where we got lots of interesting scoop from Ashley, our bartender... while Harry S. Truman looked down from another mural. Unlike FDR, It's not a rumor that Truman stayed at The Elms. On election night, back in 1948, Mr. Truman enjoyed some of the spa features before retiring to his suite, where he listened to the radio for election results. Hard to imagine, but true.

​The European Lap Pool
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After moving on to a fabulous dinner in the restaurant, Don and I changed into suits and headed on a long journey in search of the lap pool in the basement.  

Three Islands  

We were glad that we'd gotten history of the pool from Ashely, or we might have totally missed the lap pool experience! Just finding the underground secret, was an adventure. Don and I were pretty excited to lay eyes on one of only 3 of these specially designed pools in the country.
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Also knowing that there had possibly been a murder in the area, back in the gambling days, added an extra thrill. But mostly it was fun trying to enjoy the therapy of the 3-island set up! 

Circling the Islands

I started by walking around the smallest island first. That's how the more feeble "guests" would have begun their water fitness.
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Then I switched directions, to add resistance with the current. Then it was time to try a larger island. Then I circled the whole pool. There were a couple of soaking tubs to relax in as a reward. There was a fair amount of laughing during my workout. 
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The Glowing Sign
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After the intense work out, we dried off an started the long journey back to our room.  By the time we made it to the lobby, I realized I needed to run outside to see if the sign was lit. It was! The hotel and sign looked a tiny bit eerie thought the drizzle.  

​Morning with 5th Floor Treats
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We slept well and woke to a rainy day. There was a nice continental breakfast served on our floor and we enjoyed it back in the room. The night before, we'd returned to our room and to find a note from the concierge with drink vouchers and a snack of meats, cheese and nuts in our fridge. I guess we missed our 5th floor happy hour. 

What's Notable?
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It's sad to know that The Elms will never be what it once was, but I'm totally okay with that.

​The healing mineral waters once made Excelsior Springs a booming community. The Elms was a grand health resort, for the wealthy. Then suddenly, views began to change about the health benefits of the mineral springs and tourism slowed down.  
There may be no fox and hound hunts on the grounds, now. I saw no ladies playing bridge on the veranda. But for the price, we had a heck of a time enjoying ourselves and imagining the glory days. I'll remember the good food and friendly staff and most of all the curious circular pool in the basement!
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#200 - The Brinkman Farmstead B & B

9/21/2018

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Owensville, Missouri
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On a warm September afternoon, Don and I followed a scenic gravel road that took us to this beautiful, post-and-beam barn.

​Not Just Cows
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I was excited about seeing the Jersey cows, since the farm's focus is on cow-milking and cheese-making. But before I laid eyes on a single cow, we were greeted by Robin, the Border Collie and Molly, the Mastiff. I eventually counted about 11 cats. I was in heaven.

H.H. Brinkman Homestead
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Across the road from the barn was the original limestone, Brinkman House from 1867. Martha and Tom own the farm and live there now. 

A Few Barns
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After we met the dogs on the barn's porch, we met Tom and Martha's daughter-in-law, Randas. She shared a little about the property and pointed down the hill to 2 other barns. I love barns.

The Brinkman Barn from 1857

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The barn furthest away, was built 10 years before the Brinkmans built the house. What a thrill to see the barn still in use today.
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The day that I was born, the Brinkman barn was already 100 years old. That's a really old barn. I can't even imagine how many sweet critters have called the barn home!

Where are the Jersey Cows?
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I love farms and I love cows, but I am extra fond of Jersey Cows!  Randas pointed down the road to the pasture, where the Jerseys were grazing.
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Pond and Pasture

Don and I headed down the gravel road to watch the cows grazing in the pasture's mix, of grass and clover. 
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Looking at the setting, I couldn't help but think, if I were a cow, this is where I'd like to live.  At the barn later, I saw that the cows were treated more like pets, than livestock. Yep, I'd want to live at the Brinkman Farm, if I were a cow.
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Jersey Milkers
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There were at least 15 soft, brown Jerseys grazing in the pasture. A few mooed at us, but most ignored us. I couldn't stop smiling. My special love of Jersey cows has a little something to do with my mom... and her playful nickname, Jersey Mother.  It's a story too long for this write-up, but Mom would have loved this farm. 

​Up in the Loft

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Don and I were excited to take a look at the 3,000 square foot hayloft, where we would be sleeping. As we climbed up to our space above the cheese making and milking areas, I was met with just a hint of a barn smell. Don didn't even smell it, but memories of horse stables when I was young, began to surface. It's a smell that I happen to love.
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In the large common area, I spotted farm decor in every nook and cranny. Even hanging from beams, I saw a chandelier made of some kind of "hay claw" thing. The light over the table was made from a clear, plastic milk container.  
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The 18 foot ceiling made the space extra roomy. There were 4 guest rooms, but we were the only guests staying that night. That meant Don and I had all the games, books, comfy chairs, TV and popcorn, just for ourselves.

Art and Wine

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I loved studying the wall, filled with farm-themed art. I also noticed the wine glasses and they made me thirsty.
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Don and I couldn't resist the complimentary popcorn, so we made a batch and opened up the wine we had with us. But, once we spotted the small milk bottles, we left the wine glasses on the dresser.
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Drinking wine from a milk bottle is something you don't do every day. Cheers to Brinkman Farmstead!

The Rhode Island Red Room
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We probably should have forked out a little extra to stay in the Jersey Cow Suite, in honor of my mom. But our chicken themed room was plenty large! The bed and lounge chair were extra soft. There was even a rolling barn door, leading to our bathroom.

Looking Up at the Rafters
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The ceiling was so high above the bed, I could have done a few trampoline flips without head bumping concerns! 
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I skipped the trampoline tricks and counted chickens instead. That seemed be the safer way to let my kid-side enjoy the room. I counted about 30 chicken images in our large space.
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Rustic Restroom
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The bathroom was so large, we didn't even need a curtain for the shower. I liked the sink with its water pump spout and  the soap-holding-hand was pretty... handy. And the soap was actually made at the farm!
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Evening on the Farm
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Around 6:30, Don and I came down from the loft to enjoy the cooling temps. The porch on the west side of the barn was getting nice and shady.

Calling The Girls
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As the sun began to lower, it was time for The Girls to head up to the Milking Parlor. 

You could see the cows out in the pasture slowly heading in our direction...

Suddenly the cows began to appear from behind the small barn, heading up the dirt path.
Ben and His Jerseys

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Randas continued calling out, encouraging The Girls as they headed towards the barn. Her husband Ben, spoke to the cows one on one as they meandered up the hill. 
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I asked Ben if he had a favorite. He looked up from scratching "Elizabeth" between the ears. "This one." He said with a smile. Since Elizabeth is my real name, I had to agree that she was mighty fine.

45 Minutes of Meandering?

​I was surprised how long the walking process took. I was also surprised at how relaxed and patient Ben and Randas were with the animals. They chatted and patted each animal. They shared about life on the farm and how different it was in the winter. They talked about how each cow had its own distinct personality. We learned that a mama cow was about to give birth, any day. I hoped...
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We also heard that Ben and Randas were recently married in a nearby sunflower field. They laughed about how hard it was, being away from the animals during their honeymoon. Pretty sweet!

Milking Parlor
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I was excited when we were invited to help with the milking. Inside the milking parlor, Ben got everything ready below and then headed back to bring in the Jerseys.  Then Don and I climbed down, so Randas could show us the ropes.
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Bringing Back Memories
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I had a quick deja vu as I stood listening to instructions, wearing a red bandana, as I did in 1977. The only other time I ever milked a cow, was also in Missouri. But I sat on a stool that time and did a pretty lame job of squeezing milk into a cup.

​Using Equipment

It was about 8 pm by the time Ben lead 4 Girls into their separate stalls. They each had a metal bowl of yummy nibbles to distract them. Randas demonstrated with one cow and then guided me with another.
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Standing a level below the cow, I cleaned the teats with a moist rag, then disinfected with iodine, then attached the milking device... which looked an awful lot like some scuba gear I've used in the past.
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I got a little tangled with the equipment and a little giggly when the device grabbed hold of the teats and began making sucking sounds. 

​Where Does the Milk Go?
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We could see the milk being carried away in clear tubes, where it filled a plastic container. After "helping" with the milking for a while, it was time to move on.    
Randas filled up 3 gigantic baby bottles and we turned the rest of the milking over to Ben. By this time it was pretty dark. Don and I followed Randas and a parade of cats, over to the old barn.

Calf Time
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We could hear a little mooing from the cozy, wood and stone barn. Three calves, (less than 3 weeks old) were eager for their dinner. A few chickens, a bunny and a couple kittens hung around for the show.
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Luckily Don was able to snap a quick photo and then grab the third bottle. The little calves were very impatient and just about yanked the bottle from my hands. 

​The Teenagers
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The bigger calves made a lot of noise on the other side of the barn. Randas filled a large feeding dish and the little crowd gathered with their mouths all eating at once. Moslty, it seemed like the youngin's just wanted a little attention.

​Scratching the Forehead
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We learned so much during our short visit to the farm. We learned about sustainable farming and artificial insemination and cheesemaking. But I really liked the tip about where cows like to be scratched... on their furry little foreheads!

Morning in the Loft
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We woke to a beautiful blue day! The view from the loft was lovely and the spread of food on the counter was amazing! First we had juice, fruit and yogurt, along with a board of meats and cheese... made from our dear Jerseys' milk!
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Fancy Lighting

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We sat below the milk bottle light (that we now recognized from the milking parlor) and we pigged out! 
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Then, Ben arrived with another tray of food! There was bacon and some kind of baked egg dish and some fruit & cheese blintz kind of goodie. Colorful dishes and cloth napkins, made it taste even better.

Morning Milking
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Since we had already showered, we decided to take our coffee down and just enjoy the morning ritual, without pitching in.  
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We watched Ben and Randas go through the morning routine, lining up the cows. I was struck with how peaceful and content they seemed, never rushing the sweet critters.
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We watched the Jerseys gather for their milking and then we visited with some of the other pets.
Cats and Dogs
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Don got his cat fix and I snuggled with Robin.
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We had a chance to meet Ben's dad, Tom. He told us some funny stories about Molly.  She leaned into him as he spoke, as if encouraging more stories.


Good-Bye Jerseys
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We had to say good-by to the cows before we drove off. I spotted the Belgian horse for the first time. One night was obviously not enough time, to get to know all the animals.

What's Notable?
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We slept in a hay loft and milked cows and fed calves.

​That ranks pretty high on the Notable Night List!


I was genuinely surprised to see how much this family loves their animals. The dogs, cats and even the Jerseys, all seem to be a part of the family. I know that running this farm and making cheese (which I didn't even get into) and running a B&B, must be hugely exhausting. But there was something calming about watching these folks interact with the animals. We had an unforgettable stay, for sure.
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#199 - Hotel Vandivort in Missouri

9/15/2018

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Downtown Hotel in Springfield, MO
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In September, we stayed in a building that was once a Masonic Temple. That was enough to make the Notable Night List.  

Don and I have visited Springfield often in recent years. We've stayed in a Route 66 motel, a charming historic house and a convent, turned into an inn. But this was our first stay in historic downtown Springfield area.


Downtown in 1896 

I've got a special curiosity about the history of Old Springfield.
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I've been coming to visit relatives, since I was a baby in the 1950's. I've got some fuzzy memories of Downtown Springfield, but not as fuzzy as this photo from 1896... which shows the Ely Grubbs Grocery Store that my great grandfather owned.

Masonic Temple Today
The grocery is gone, as far as I know. Don and I couldn't find a building that matched the photo. But the 1906 building that hosted Masons for about 80 years, welcomed us inside.
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Heading In
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Don and I parked in front and approached the hotel with our bags. There were two entrances. The back was intriguing with its giant "V" and modern balconies. There was a very cozy sitting area there as well.

​The Front "V"
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Another large V awaited us. It seemed to be spilling out of a large frame, along with lots of greenery.
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We headed to the glass doors in front. The giant V automatically split in half, when we got close. 

Inside the lobby, we headed past a modern stairwell, towards the front desk. 

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From Below
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Later when I explored the basement and burned a few calories in the small gym, I admired the V-Art from the bottom of the stairs.
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As I climbed up, the enormous V, stared down from it's green jungle. 

​Very dramatic!

V For Vandivort
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I have no clue who Vandivort was, but the hotel is named for the Vandivort Ballroom on the fourth floor. The ballroom space has been hosting Springfield social events for over 100 years. I wish my grandparents were still alive to possibly share a story or two. From the windows I could see Walnut Street, where some of my relatives once lived.

​Gathering Spaces
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I was impressed by every corner of the first floor. I loved the artwork above the fireplace and the bright light coming in the front window.

Mid-Century Modern?
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Some of the sleek furniture lines made me feel like I'd stepped into the 1950's again. My family was never quite so mod, but my Great Aunt Margueritte might have gone for this look.

Work Space
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Evidently, the communal tables were made from wood that was part of this building at one time. The tables looked almost too nice to use. But I did see a few people gathered around with computers, on Monday morning. 

Spotlight on the Masons
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I totally loved this display with all the tiny tools, photos and artifacts. I know little about the history of the Mason's fraternal organization, but obviously it had some kind of roots with actual stonemasons.

What Is A Mason?

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Luckily they had a little info to enlighten me. There was a lot to ponder with this special statement about the duties of a Mason. Mostly I had fun with all the words, level, plumb, grip, order. Like an Easter egg hunt, I could have spent hours hunting down related images on shelves and in art, all around the hotel.

Hidden Pictures
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Every time I spotted a "V" I was like a little kid, eager about discovering the alphabet. Even our bathroom floor tile had Vs!
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A Framed Plumb Bob!
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I'm not a big tool person, but I was kind of enjoying my education as I discovered tools here and there. The engineer side of Don was probably having more fun than me. Every time I asked a question like, What exactly does a plumb bob do?  Don had an answer.

Going Up

After checking in with a very pleasant young woman at the desk, we headed for the elevator. As we lifted to the fourth floor, we had a fun time watching the brick wall through the glass.  The painted brick let us know which floors we were passing.
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The classy hallway was filled with intriguing art and fun lighting. I was like a kid, eager to see what was behind the door.

Double High!
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I was pretty giddy over the soaring ceiling. I needed a Mason's measuring tool. Was that ceiling 20 feet high?

I'm not used to having one window above another. That was curious. They even had buttons to open and close the  light shade or the black outs shade.

​The bathroom was heavenly. There were luxurious bath products and towels and seersucker & terry robes.

​The sound system in the bathroom just about gave me a heart attack, though... when Don turned on the TV.





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Lounging Near the Window
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There wasn't a big sitting area, but the chair near the window was cozy.
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There was another comfy desk chair available and a great wet bar with some fun local goodies to chose from. We could have had some Missouri Spirits Vodka or Bourbon... for a price.

​Spirits in "The Order"
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We chose to have a drink in the hotel bar instead. I loved the Masonic name, The Order. It was pretty quiet on a Sunday evening, but the young bartender was chatty and we got to watch her roll the library ladder back and forth a few times.

Ahhhh Sleep!
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Our room was nice and quiet by the time we finally hit the bed. The bedding was perfect. The pillows were just right. I even liked the lamps! I did wake in the wee hours to the clanking of the trash truck. But that's part of the city charm... I guess.

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Breakfast
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Our room came with a $12.00 voucher towards breakfast. We made use and enjoyed an omelet with fruit and potatoes, plus an order of chicken waffle sliders! 

Wandering!
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After breakfast, we gave ourselves a little time to explore before taking off. Next door we had the beautiful theatre and down the street I posed with a butterfly mural. What a perfect ending to our quick 1-night stay.

​What's Notable?
We got to stay at an upscale, urban, boutique hotel... in a small city. It felt "city hip" without the headaches or cost. We parked for free on the street and wandered safely. When I left my purse at the bar, a local guest ran over to the pizza cafe and delivered it to me. That was my reminder... that we were in Springfield!
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#137 Rail Haven Motel on Route 66

6/29/2016

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Springfield, MO

I remember a lot of neon signs on Glenstone Avenue, when I was a kid.  Our family would drive in from Iowa to visit grandparents and cousins in Springfield.  I don't exactly remember Rain Haven from childhood, but it was there. It was one of many motels and motor courts with inviting pools and grassy playgrounds.  
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1950's
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The old neon sign used to be on the corner of Glenstone and St. Louis Street. (which was Rt 66) Long before that, the land was an apple orchard.  In 1938, eight sandstone cottages were built and the business was enlarged over time. Eventually Rail Haven took on the motel look, popular in the 1950's.

Best Western
Now, the old Rail Haven sign is near the rear of the complex. I didn't photograph the boring, blue, Best Western sign that is now in front. I didn't want to be reminded that we
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 were staying at a chain motel.  But, while wandering the grounds a bit, I found this retro yellow sign with the old 5-point crown. It was attached to one of the original cottages.  The 1960's style sign reminded me that Rail Haven became a part of Best Western back when I was a kid.  That's a piece of motel history worth noting.
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The Office
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I believe at one point the office for the motorcourts was across the street at a gas station. Now the office sits proudly on the corner with lots of 1950's era decor to honor the Route 66 history.

Gas Pumps
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The gas pumps are a reminder of the station that once held the motel office.  Gas stations and motels must have been big business in 1938, when Route 66 was quite young.  It's fun to picture the busy auto traffic along the Mother Road, from Chicago to California.

The Staff
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The lobby with the rounded, glass block desk, had more of a 1960's feel. The staff was very friendly.  They were too young to remember the evolution of the motel, but the young man at the desk said his father had shared a lot of that history with him.
Breakfast Area
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At check-in, the breakfast area was empty. But in the morning there was complimentary breakfast with a few hot options. The motel's original phone booth with rotary dial was tucked back behind the stools.

Our Room 
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Like so many roadside motels, it's hard to see the old, after renovations.  But the rectangular cupolas on the roof, made me think Howard Johnson's.  And our room with the high window, had a retro feel.

Not The Elvis Room
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Our room didn't look like the room Elvis stayed in, when he was in town performing in the 1950's. Evidently he was booked at the Kentwood Arms Hotel, but preferred a motel and moved over here.  He probably liked being able to pull right up to the room and walk in... just like we did.  Today, the hotel's Elvis Room is decorated with a bed that looks like a pink Cadillac and giant retro murals.  
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Little Nostalgia

We got a tiny bit of motel nostalgia in the bathroom with the flesh colored tile and the small frosted window. Everything else was nice and updated, so no complaints.
Quiet on a Cool Night
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The covered patio was empty on a cool evening.  It was actually pretty nice with tables and  a couple mounted TVs, showing retro black and white sitcoms.  I'm pretty sure this area was once where the kiddie playground used to be, beside the pool.  I read that there were once horse shaped swings, aimed so little cowgirls and cowboys could ride towards the old west!
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Some Old Stuff
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And in a sort of forgotten area in the back, I found an old slide.  It looked just like the metal slides I remember burning my legs on when I was a kid!  There was also a portion of split rail fence.  Not the original, I'm sure.  But the motel got its name from the fence that surrounded the property.

What's Notable?
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It was an easy, economical and comfortable stay, with some fun hints of the past. The room, breakfast and even the lobby will probably fade from memory, but I'll remember the signs.  As a kid, Glenstone was magical at night with all the colorful neon.  I never thought I'd be staying at one of those motels!
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#136 Munger Moss Motel

6/20/2016

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Lebanon, Missouri

Even though this fine sign looks a little familiar, the Munger Moss Motel was never a part of any of the chain motels that became popular in the 1950's.  

However, the Missouri motel did copy the popular sign image from Holiday Inn. They needed to do something when suddenly there was competition from chains.
The Sign Before the Sign
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Don and I had read about the motel with the odd sounding name, a few years ago. We were ready to give it a try this past April. We exited off I-44 and quickly spotted the big billboard... 300 yards from the motel. 

MOTEL
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We turned onto the old Mother Road and the Munger Moss was right there. The neon sign and word MOTEL, weren't a part of this scene when it first opened in 1946.  Originally there were 14 cabin courts, connected with carport/ garages.  

The Office
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The neon sign, along with  TVs and air-conditioning were added in the 1950's.   The office and the sprawling  u-shaped line up of motel rooms greeted us on a drizzly, cold day. I was eager to get inside the office and meet the woman I'd spoken with on the phone.

Ramona
Ramona entered from the back as we came through the office entrance. She'd been expecting us. and we chatted for 30 minutes.  
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We heard how Ramona and her husband moved from Iowa with 4 kids in 1971. They took over the motel business, living in 2 family units, connected by a door. The kids adjusted to their new state, embracing the warmer months with access to the motel pool.  Ramona chuckled about a day when her son was missing, but turned up in a room with a Do Not Disturb sign on the door.  He was watching TV.  

Memorablia
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The office was packed with Route 66 goodies.  Evidently the International guests really love the tee-shirts and souvenirs. 

Special Guests
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Ramona had fun telling us about all the guests she'd chatted with during her 45 years of hosting.  She pointed out the  photos of famous guests who were there before her.  Many stayed at Munger Moss while performing in USO tours at nearby Fort Leonard Wood.

From Around the World
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Ramona said in recent years, their guests have come from all over the world.  For some crazy reason, Route 66 is considered a big part of American History to many foreign travelers.  Ramona laughed and recalled an Australian traveler, when I asked who had been her most memorable guest.

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Finding Our Room

We finally got our key and headed up to find the Route 66 Room.  

The walkway beside the rooms only gave a few hints to the original design. It was hard to imagine how all these connected rooms had once been separate cottages.  
The Old and New
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We could see the changes in brick color.  An older door had not been replaced in the original section to the left.  The newer brick on the right, showed where a motel room was later added, replacing the carport.  Now there are 44 rooms and 16 efficiencies.

The Special Room
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Don and I just had to chuckle a bit when we opened the door and laid eyes on our special room. This was the Route 66 Room that Ramona wanted us to have.  It was decorated by Ramona with the help of her granddaughter.  There were at least 90 matted prints, depicting Route 66 scenes.
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Furniture

There were a couple of orange-gold chairs and some lacy lamps, along with a functional motel desk attached to the wall. 

It wasn't exactly 1940's or '50's decor, but there was a sincere effort here. Don and I dashed down to the office where Ramona scooped us up some ice.  We had to drink to our little motel in the Ozarks. We made a toast and then tried our best to study the fine photos and prints, without climbing on the furniture.
Pink and Blue Tile
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How I do love some vintage tub and tile features in pastel colors!  Ramona said they've replaced and repaired along the way, so there was a bit of a patchwork quilt look to our bathroom.
Some Old Details
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I peeked in another room that was about to be cleaned and spotted a bathroom with a rounded shower opening.  This took me back to the old motor court days, a little better.
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And there was a great push button holder on the bathroom door!  When was the last time I saw one of those?
Where Are We?

The motel no longer has a sandwich shop, but not far from the covered patio, (where the pool used to be) I found some fun posts with arrows.  A black and white arrow pointed to Devil's Elbow, 40 miles away.

Devil's Elbow is where Munger Moss began! The next day, Don and I drove to the town and ate lunch.
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Munger Moss Sandwich Shop... at Devil's Elbow
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We found the original sandwich shop that Nelle Munger and her second husband Emmett Moss owned.  Now it's a bar/cafe called Elbow Inn, but back in 1945 the couple sold their business with its name. The new owners moved the biz to Lebanon, then expanded with roadside cabins.  So that's the reason for the strange motel name!
 What's Notable?
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I met Bob in the morning and he was a sweet as his wife, Ramona. This couple is the reason you come to stay at Munger Moss. They've worked for 45 years, running the motel, raising kids, welcoming guests and sharing the history.  I am so grateful that we were able to stay while they are still the owners.  I will remember their genuine warmth and the old fashioned price as well!  AND... the sign, lit up at night!
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#135  A Night at Arcadia Academy

6/4/2016

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A 150 Year Old Campus, in Missouri's Arcadia Valley 
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Don and I learned about Arcadia Academy when searching for hotel stays in Missouri. The Arcadaia website showed 5 nice looking B&B guest rooms, but when we arrived we found a 16-acre campus with 8 buildings.  What exactly was the history of this place? We approached this building and learned later that it once housed about 100 young women from Ursuline Academy.  The dining room had become a restaurant and the dorms above, became hostel rooms.

We Entered
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Once inside, I was happily jolted by some very sweet smells.  A display of enormous cinnamon rolls tempted me from a nearby wooden rack. There was another display case for inedible goodies.  This cabinet was lit up, to highlight a collection of religious treasures. 
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We examined numerous Virgin Mary statuettes, then peeked in at "Thee Abbey Kitchen" restaurant, where some diners were finishing up a late lunch.  We waited a bit longer until a man in a white apron rushed out from the kitchen to assure us that he had alerted Katherine to our arrival.   

Little Nuns
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As we waited, we studied the cute little nuns on one of the shelves, we wondered who Katherine might be.  Would  she arrive in a black and white habit and introduce herself as Sister Katherine? 
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Bakery and Creamery
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As we stood in the hall, the smells from the cheery little Bakery & Creamery made things pleasant. But peeking up the eerie stairway to the second floor made me question our decision.  As it turns out, the upper floors held the hostel rooms. I didn't even know that had been an option. 

 Priest's House from 1902 
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Katherine arrived with a big smile and no habit.  She apologized for keeping us waiting and took us next door.  She took us past some toy trucks and trikes, that I believe belonged to her children.  She warned us that the first step was a big one and we hiked up to the hefty white door with a doorbell crank in the center.  This had been the Priest's House.  I'm not sure if that was during the 100 years of Ursuline Academy or later in the 1970'a when the buildings served as a convent. 
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Facing the Garden
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Katharine said she had upgraded us to a suite on the first floor, since they were only using 2 of the 5 rooms.  The price of our upgraded suite would have been $60. more, so that was a sweet deal from our sweet host!  Our new room was on the corner with windows looking over the porch to the gardens. 
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Inside
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Katherine showed us around a bit and took us down the hall where Presidents, George and Abe peered down from frames.  She pointed out the parlor where we could play a hymn on the pump organ.  Actually she did not invite us to do that, but we could exit the door near the Jesus portrait and enjoy the porch.  

More Hall Goodies
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Opposite our room, was the kitchen entrance where we would later eat breakfast. I loved the little prayer desk next to the kitchen door. Maybe it was a writing desk, but how could I be in this place without thinking of prayer?  ​It looked like it was just missing a padded kneeler. 
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The plastic light switch plates were pretty special.  Some people seem to think old B&B's and hotels are eerie.  But this little image was downright comforting.  I felt sure there would be no hauntings. Only holy ghosts in this place!

"The Provincial"
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Our 2-room suite was quite the mix of old and new. I loved the 10-foot ceilings and rich wood molding. The door was awfully grand, as were the 6 windows. I only wish we could have easily opened the curtains to let in the view of the grounds.  
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From the Door
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From the doorway, you can see we had a mounted flat screen TV with a DVD player, which we didn't really need.  It's obvious where the new split wall had made two rooms into one suite. 

The Bathroom
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I doubt the priests ever had the luxury of double granite sinks.  They probably would have found the spa tub a bit disgraceful, since it looked like it was built for about 4 people.

Shower and Toilet
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The gigantic shower with 2 shower heads also hinted at some unholy behavior. Katherine was eager to point out the large shower and she was kind enough to warn us about the teeny toilet closet, which was behind the door where the robes were hanging. I'm not huge and I had been warned... but I still laughed out loud when I checked out the tiny space. "Holy cow!  How could anyone close the door when they're in here?"

60-Foot Balcony
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We weren't given any drinking rules, so we shook up martinis in a thermal mug and took our happy hour to the second floor porch.  What a beautiful evening and setting! As the sun lowered, the frogs delighted us with their evening music!

The View
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From our porch chairs we had a rear view of the chapel.  What a beautiful cone shaped roof with cross. We also could peer back into the courtyard where a statue of Jesus stood center, and a little red wagon waited under a tree.

More Garden Views
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Directly forward from the porch was a lovely little stone building. There was a porch swing hanging from a tree and a few statues and grottos and a pond.  

Wandering 
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In the evening and morning I wandered the grounds, trying to figure it all out.  I walked around the back of St. Joseph's Chapel, build in 1908.  It was hard to imagine these grounds in 1846, when the original Methodist school opened, as Arcadia High School.

A Pond
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The pond and gardens came much later after the The Ursuline Catholic Sisters took over in 1877.  

Pondering Near the Pond
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The whole setting really was absolutely peaceful. As I stood near a pair of ducks enjoying their pond, I wondered how many young boarding students stood out here, missing home and family.  
Or how many nuns wandered in prayer?  And even more sobering to imagine... How many Civil War Union soldiers came out into the sunshine to heal... back when the campus turned into a hospital during the Civil War?

The Gymnasium
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This gym, built in 1930 intrigued me the most. It was built when the Catholic Girls School was at its peak.  Were those seesaws and swings from way back then? And the front had an Alfred Hitchcock feel... with a pair of cement swans resting on the steps.

St. Joseph's
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The Chapel was built in 1907.  We had hoped to get a tour with Katherine before leaving, but there wasn't time.  I had to just imagine the beautiful interior.

​The Cemetery
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The main road leading to the Academy took us right by a stone wall and cemetery. I didn't do my own exploring, but we heard that the grave markers had the names of Sisters from the academy. That seemed like too many graves, but then again, the school was open nearly 100 years.

Heading Back
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At the end of the drive, there were stone entrance gates.  I pictured the buggies that first arrived bringing young girls to boarding school.  What thoughts went through their heads as they traveled towards the chapel and campus buildings?

Dining 
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We ate dinner in "Thee Abbey Kitchen" that evening.  We pretty much had the place to ourselves.  

Back in the Day
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An old photo reminded us that not too much had changed. There were no white table cloths for our visit, but we did have a framed Last Supper print nearby.

Our Food
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Our young server, Cassie who had the energy of a hummingbird, recommended Janette's Chicken with a light and savory chicken chive sauce. Man, was that rich and delicious.  We tried to eat without making too much noise, since the young girls long ago had strict talking rules. But we did laugh out loud when we saw the high chair in the corner.  Don had one just like it, as a youngin'.

The Kitchen
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In the morning we headed across the hall to the kitchen.  The funny stove & oven held the Keurig coffee maker and the rounded fridge had some help yourself sodas and water. The old ice box, was maybe just leftover from back in the day.  We sipped on a little coffee, and took in the atmosphere.

Breakfast with Others
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We shared the large table with the 2 other hotel guests. They were traveling from Arizona and as we chatted it became evident, we all shared an appreciation for unusual and curious hotels... some good story swapping!
Blessed Breakfast
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The painting of the praying man made me feel extra grateful for our French toast, eggs, bacon and potatoes. He only had bread.  I also felt a little guilty as Katherine rushed through the door, which connects to the dorm/restaurant, carrying our steaming plates.  We had seen her bustling around at 8 the night before and here she was serving our breakfast! 

What's Notable?
We stayed on the outskirts of a tiny town, on a sprawling campus of a hotel... that happened to feel pretty heavenly. That's no joke. 
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But, you do not have to be Catholic or ultra religious to feel welcome.  As a guest, you just need to be open to a little nature and history!  What an amazingly, peaceful place.  Big thanks to the Katherine and her Oyler family for the huge task of renovating and running such a place!
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#134 Moonrise Hotel in St. Louis

5/28/2016

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"Urban Chic & Comfy Sleek"

These words, on the hotel website, were supposed to lure me.  But, I'm more drawn to words like quaint and cozy.

The prices I found on a Groupon Deal for $369.00, also didn't convince me to book a room!  

But darn I wanted to stay at this place!
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Determined

I was so drawn to the photos and descriptions of this totally unique, 7-year old hotel.  I was determined to find a good price online. I did and I booked a night. 
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Both Don and I were curious.   The Moonrise Hotel didn't exist, back when we lived in St. Louis.  We had always loved the quirky Delmar Loop area.  In 1979, I did my student teaching at nearby Delmar-Harvard Elementary.  Don lived just blocks away when he attended Washington U.  But neither of us would have wandered east on Delmar Blvd, past Skinker... where the hotel now sits.  

Back in the Day
In the seventies, things got pretty sketchy on Delmar, when you headed east towards the city. A funeral parlor sat on the property where the hotel was later built.  
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 Joe Edwards, who created this whimsical lunar themed hotel, had a big vision and he was good enough to preserve some of that original building.  It became the hotel's Eclipse Restaurant.
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The Lobby

Don and I arrived last April and were thrilled to have self park options in back. We grabbed bags and headed towards the lobby in the newer, 8-story building. As soon as we walked through the door I had to grin, when I spotted the glowing, blue staircase on our left.
Floating in Space
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As we moved towards the desk, the illuminated stairway changed colors.  I didn't capture the movement of the color change in my photos, but it was quite a lively thing to see.  In fact the whole stairway seemed alive as it floated upward in the clean, spacious lobby.

Many Moons
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I love a theme, but many theme related hotels are just corny.  This space theme was so complete and so sophisticated, it did not allow for eye rolling.  Just smiling. After all, I was raised on The Jetsons cartoons in the sixties.  I love this kind of decor.

Check In
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Even the desk area was space age.  The light fixtures were obviously cool, but even the design on the front of the desk reminded me of something retro and futuristic. Wait, how is that possible to be both? 

More Lamps and Lights
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Everywhere we looked there were lights twinkling and colorful, glowing fixtures.  I felt like I was 6 years old again...all bug-eyed at General Motors Futurama, at the 1964 World's Fair!

Welcoming Travelers...
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There were lots of places for travelers to lounge around with their newspapers or a computers.
... And Pets

And there were goodies for traveling pets as well.  I loved Astro the Dog, steering the nifty chalkboard spacecraft! The names of the V.I. Pooches and Celebri-Kitties were written in chalk.
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Joe & His Collections

Owner, Joe Edwards is an avid collector and there were a lot of his goodies and photos and write ups on display!  I loved seeing the photo of Joe with astronaut, Neil Armstrong. It was taken in 2011, 42 years after Armstrong became the first man to walk on the moon!  I remember being 12 and watching that famous step on my grandmother's TV!
 
Toys and Trinkets

I was born in 1957, just months after the Soviet Union's launch of Sputnik. I guess that means I was born during the birth of the space age, so maybe that's why I loved all the lunar toys... dolls, patches, rockets, figurines, and even lunch boxes.  

Don and I both grew up watching liftoffs and splashdowns on TV.  It's as if this hotel had been designed, just for our generation.
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The Retro Stuff...
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 ... just made me smile.

The Modern Stuff...
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... was just plain cool!   I loved this mirror of circles, near the elevator.  

Up to the Fourth Floor
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Our hallway was glowing and peaceful.  Our little moon & stars, door sign greeted us.

Inside
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Just inside the door I began spotting moon art in our modern room.  To the left I chuckled when I noticed the sliding glass door that covered either the closet, or the bathroom...not both.

Glass looks cool... but.
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My biggest pet peeve of modern hotels is the glass bathroom door.  I don't care if they're frosted or not, the early riser is forced to blast light on the late sleeper in the morning. But I decided to ignore that complaint when I saw the sleek chaise lounge chair!  Woohoo!  I had me a nice time relaxing on that thing, under the moon photo.

Ahh!
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The bed was heavenly.  The cushioned headboard was a treat.  The huge flatscreen TV and the "sound machine"  were extra nice to have.

The View
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Our room had a glass corner, which was fun. There was an unsightly roof below, but I chose to look across at the old storefronts on Delmar.  The best part was peering up at the rooftop lounge.  Even with cloudy skies, we were sure to see the spotlight on the rotating moon after sunset!
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Rooftop!
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Don and I checked out the rooftop bar in the evening.  There were some curious crescent moon chairs and a closer view of the funny moon. 

New Moon Room
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At the east end there was an enclosed bar with planets hanging from the solar panel ceiling. That would have been a good option if the temps had been any cooler.

Moontinis?
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Evidently they offer moontinis, but we went for some wine.  The people-watching was interesting.  There seemed to be more young locals than middle aged hotel guests.  Don and I were probably the only Baby Boomers on the scene. I was glad it was Sunday, since I had a feeling the place could get pretty hopping on weekends.  
St. Louis View
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Before heading off to enjoy The Loop, we took in the view.  What a treat to spot the Arch, out beyond Forest Park.  It was beginning to cloud up or we would have waited to watch the moonrise! 

The Loop
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This festive-funky area known as the Delmar Loop, was just outside our door.  It was fun to visit our old favorite, Blueberry Hill, where Don and I have enjoyed many a beer, surrounded by rock-and-roll memorabilia.  Joe Edwards opened Blueberry Hill in 1972 and has continued building and refurbishing in the area since.

More Neon
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We wandered and enjoyed more new-retro additions to the Loop, thanks again to this mystery man named, Joe.   Don and I enjoyed the evening, then had a late Thai meal at a sidewalk cafe before turning in.

Morning 
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I stepped outside early the next morning to peek at the street before heading to the hotel's gym. I was just getting started on the treadmill when I noticed something on TV.  I laughed and jumped off the treadmill and dashed right out to Delmar Boulevard. 
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Walk of Fame

​I stood out on the sidewalk right beside TS Eliot's star on the Delmar Walk of Fame.  (The St. Louis Star Walk is yet another festive addition, brought on by Joe) 

I stood next to the street, which was free of cars, due to barricades for road work. I watched the local Fox TV news with their cameras and lights.

There Was Joe
I had seen him on TV moments before and there he was standing in the street wearing a flowered shirt and holding a vintage model trolley.  He was being interviewed about the fixed-track, trolley that would soon be traveling from The Loop to Forest Park!  
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The news crew took a quick break and Joe looked up and waved with a big smile. I laughed over to him about how I'd been in his hotel gym and spotted him on TV. "I LOVE YOUR HOTEL!" I hollered.  He laughed and got back to his interview.
 What's Notable?
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 It's a just a cool, fun place!

I'm sure there were many clever people who had fun brainstorming ideas for creating the Moonrise Hotel.  But I loved the hotel much more, just knowing it was one person's passion that made this happen... not a corporation... not Disney... not Marriott.


Even if I had not had my brief encounter with Joe, I still would have felt like we'd met!  Being a collector of oddball stuff myself, I felt connected to this person who filled the display cases in the hotel!  
I love a theme... done well!
 
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#133 Union Station in St. Louis

5/24/2016

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Hotel Stay... Packed with History and Memories

For some time it has been my dream to spend a night in this hotel... the hotel, housed in what was once the largest and busiest train station in the world.
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I first fell in love with this grand train station when I moved to St. Louis in 1975.  The gorgeous Indiana limestone beauty was almost 80 years old then.  

Changes Since 1975​
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Don and I visited the Grand Hall of Union Station two years ago.  Before entering, we were greeted by a jovial doorman who had some good whistling talents.
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We only had time to enjoy a cocktail in the lounge beneath the 65-foot barrel-vaulted ceiling.  I was in total awe as we sipped martinis and watched the glowing colors, gradually change above us.  I could barely recognize the hall that I remembered from 1975.

In 2012
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Don and I were also in St. Louis in 2012.  We had gathered with extended family at a nearby hotel after my mother's passing. I woke before dawn, the day before her funeral and walked down Market Street, staring up at the dark building.  Despite the sad occasion and chill, I found myself grinning at the sight.  My mother had grown up in St. Louis and she visited this station often.  It was mind boggling to imagine her here in the 1940's when train travel was at its peak and the station handled 100,000 passengers daily. I so wish she had been with me to describe her memories.
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My Own Travel Memories


That cold day, I wandered until the sun started to warm the clock tower, standing 280-feet high.  

I walked past whipping flags and Christmas wreath covered windows and headed inside.  In 1894, this building had held a hotel and Harvey House restaurant and huge waiting areas and ticket offices. 

The Grand Hall
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That December morning it was a stunning sight with all the red chairs and vintage lamps lined up. It looked nothing like the vacant hall I remembered from the seventies when only 3 trains came a day.   It was odd to remember being in the station in 1975, boarding a train with my siblings.  But it was stranger to remember the time I met college classmates in the abandoned hall in 1977.  Our group of students had met in the echoing space to discuss what we had learned from our urban exploration.  As we exchanged info, we shared a picnic lunch with each other... and a homeless man. 

This Past April
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So, nearly 40 years after that picnic, Don and I entered the doors beneath the "Whispering Arch" and stepped up the stairs... 

Colorful Lounge
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...into that glorious gold-leafed hall with Romanesque arches and stained glass, bustling with guests.  Travelers and tourists lounged in comfy chairs, while sounds of clinking glasses at the bar echoed with murmuring voices. 
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Check In
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We headed towards the lobby desk and checked in with a very young woman. She happily greeted and gave us cookies, but she was too young to get it, that we didn't want to be in the new section of the hotel.  "I automatically put people in the new part... the historic section is just, you know... creepy."  We laughed, but insisted that we liked creepy.  We got our key and headed past the most beautiful hallway to get to the elevator. 

Stairs & Elevator
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The elevator was a delightfully cozy thing, shaped like a slice of pie. But most of the time we took the spiral stairs, that wound around the elevator.  We loved the entertaining glimpses of outside, through the skinny old windows!

Third Floor
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The elevator took us to the  third floor terrace, which opened onto the Grand Hall. We were suddenly right up there with the arches, stained glass and painted columns... with a good view of the crowds below in the Grand Hall.

​Higher


We had the option of climbing up one more flight to enjoy an even more dramatic view!

The archway was mighty flashy, with art deco lighting and 2 fine statues with dangling lamps!
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Looking Across
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And if we stepped back to take it all in, we could look directly across and study the mirror image.  Don and I were going to do the whisper test between the 2 balconies, but ran out of time.

The View
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This is actually a photo taken at 7 in the morning.  The lounge was quiet then, but the stained glass was glowing.  

Creepy?
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As the photo shows, there was nothing creepy about the hall in the historic wing. We opened the door to our Will Rogers Room #326 and found nothing that resembled a haunted hotel.  There was a spacious entry with wood floors, a counter and closets.  The guest room was sleek and fresh smelling, with soothing gray and brown tones.

Train Decor 
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I love a theme, but they didn't overdo!  There were tasteful, black and white train prints on one wall and a red and black print, depicting the Frisco train that was once named for Will Rogers.  The bathroom had some serious luxury with a marble shower and glamorous lighting, but there was a bit of train humor...  a sign reminded,  "Please Do Not Flush When Train Is In Station"

Toasting in the Grand Hall
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Don and I had martinis at the bar to celebrate the fact we were staying in the city where we first met, in the train station we both adore.
It added to the fun having a bartender who was our age and also grew up in St. Louis.  Unlike our desk clerk, Todd had an appreciation for the unique history.

Light Show
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There have been changes in hotel ownership since the big remodeling in the 1980's.  But the most curious change in 2 years was the hourly show that took place on the vaulted ceiling in the evening.  We were a bit amused the first time we heard the train whistle blast on the hour.  The lights dimmed and the crowds hushed to watch a light show on the vaulted ceiling, while music filled the echoing space.  A little corny maybe, but I was grinning like everyone else, as the animated displays of flying birds and swaying grass... and fireworks, entertained!

Details
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We hardly needed a show when there was so much detail around us to absorb. And after so many other visits, I finally had some time to enjoy the details.  How I wish I had taken pictures of these beautiful arched windows back when they were covered in soot and dust. 

Doors
Just looking at doors was a treat! So many arches... long before the St. Louis Arch!
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The door underneath the Restrooms sign reminded me of peacock feathers.  And the glass doors at the end of the Grand Hall were impressive enough... even without the surrounding gold trim and green tile.

Floors and Walls
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I found myself taking pictures of corners! The tiny floor tiles were about the size of Chicklets. The mosaic designs, reached the very edges of the wall, where green, glazed tile took over!
Allegorical Window
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In the morning, I took a moment to sit on the empty couch at the top of the stairwell.  The stained glass behind me showed 3 women in classical attire, representing the 3 main railroad terminals in the US.  (San Fran, NY and St. Louis) At the landing behind me, Don and I later had some fun with the Whispering Arch. We stood at opposite ends of the rainbow arch, each facing the wall.  Then we conversed in barely a whisper.  It works! 
Coffee on Deck
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We missed out on the hotel restaurant, but in the morning, we stood in line for Starbucks in the gift shop.  We found a nice terrace behind the bar that looked out on what would have once been the Train Shed... I guess.  In the '80's it became a festive indoor mall and restaurant space.  It's in transition now, with shops sadly closed.  More changes coming.

What's Notable?
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I was captured by the spell of this oldie.  I couldn't stop drooling over the past, whether remembering my own visits or wondering about those who crowded the waiting rooms long ago.  I was charmed.  I also know there were gimmicks and tourists that added a little Disney-feel to the place, now and then.  But I was delighted to ignore any of that. I just love the Grand Hall and our lovely room as well.  So darn glad to have experienced it!
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    Ninety Notable        Nights

    My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains.    

    I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth.  Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years.

    ​The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures.  I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding!

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