A Night in Berkeley

While visiting the San Francisco Bay area in October, Don and I decided to spend a night in Berkeley.

I kind of shy away from the word CLUB. It makes me think of exclusive country clubs... places that aren't welcoming to all. But this had once been a club for women in the twenties!  I had to read on!

The Building

Before booking, I read about the building and the woman who designed it. It was intriguing and reasonably priced! Don was game to stay, even though it had once been a club... that was not so welcoming to men... at least until 1962.  Thanks Don!

I headed in while Don parked. Street parking! That was a treat, since the night before we'd paid 76 dollars, to valet park at San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel.

Designed by Julia Morgan

As I approached the building, I only knew a few things.

I was surprised to learn that Morgan was also connected to The Fairmont, which was the hotel we had stayed in, the night before.

The Fairmont & The Earthquake

During our SF stay, Don and I learned a lot about the 1906 earthquake that devastated much of San Francisco. We learned that our lavish hotel, on top of Nob Hill survived the initial earthquake, but not the fires that followed.

​How crazy that Don and I spent two nights in a row, in hotels that were created or improved by Julia Morgan. 

Back at The Berkeley

So, as Don unloaded the car, I headed towards our sturdy, massive, building. It looked like we would be staying in some kind of Italian Palazzo-Fortress, if there is such a thing. I was ready to learn more.

Too bad we didn't have a teeny tiny earthquake during our stay... just for the ultimate test.  

 
Heading In

As I approached the entrance, I could see the concrete flowers and embellishments around the door. Molded? I guess you don't carve concrete? I know so little.

Was this the entrance? Was this actually a hotel? I saw no obvious signs. I felt hesitant walking towards the door, since I couldn't remember if I'd gotten confirmation, when booking.

I glanced at the windows. The columns and arches reminded me of a fairytale castle.  The doors with their diamond-paned leaded glass, were mighty impressive... and locked. I buzzed a buzzer and heard a voice. "May I help you?"

Church Time?
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I heard a click and worked with two hands to open the heavy door.

This was my first glimpse at the interior! Wow! I hoped this wasn't a flubbed reservation, because I really wanted to stay in this building. It looked like a church and I've never spent the night in a church. 

Check In

To the right of the entrance was a desk, where I spotted two women looking over paperwork. This is the only photo I took that includes a peek at that space.

The women who quietly worked behind the desk reminded me of librarians or nuns or professors. I felt like I should whisper when I inquired about our reservations. 

We Are Guests

Whew, I was helped by a very kind woman who found our reservations. This was indeed our hotel.

However, this lovely Gothic building offered much more than hotel rooms. Locals can become City Club members and use the numerous lounge and meetings spaces... or the amazing pool, which was down this hall. 

I was in awe of the vaulted ceilings and the wrought-iron chandeliers. I was very much in love with the sweet bear-like creatures who were perched here and there, when I walked up the stairs.

Elevators

We were glad we didn't have to hike the stairs with our bags up to our 5th floor room.

However the old elevators were a little slow and wonky. Luckily they got us to the floor and the clanky noise didn't bother us in our room... which was next to the elevators.

Quiet Hall

We peeked down the hallways before stepping into our room.

There are now 38 hotel rooms, but I had the feeling we were the only guests. I wondered about the women who used to stay here in the 30's and 40's. 

Simple

Our corner room was simple and basic.  The door almost bonked the corner of the queen bed, when we opened.

There was no TV, but we had some appealing artwork and great windows for our entertainment. I'm not being at all sarcastic. It was peaceful and cozy.

I liked the old radiators and the wicker chair for lounging or reading. The desk was very sweet. I wish it could have inspired me to write a letter... or a novel.

Love the Bathroom

If I had been staying a month, I might have hoped for a little more bathroom luxury. But we were staying one night. I actually loved this oddly shaped bathroom. I felt like I was in a film noir movie scene, when I brushed my teeth.

The floor and tub tile was retro fun. The curtain around the trough-like tub, meant Don got his shower and I got to soak. The wooden medicine cabinet was handy with its little shelf. The frosted, metal-framed window opened up, to a view of the campus!

But, we actually spent little time in the room.

Exploring!

It was time to get out and explore the City Club Building.

It was late on a Monday afternoon and all seemed very quiet.

Don and I searched for a good place to relax a bit before dinner. The library was nice, but there were a couple of men quietly studying their laptops. We moved on.

We found a piano and maybe I should have played! This Women's Club was after all, created to give women a place for social, cultural and recreational activity.  

The Pool!

I was the most excited about seeing the pool, designed by Julia Morgan, over 90 years ago.

The 75-foot pool was empty, when we peeked at it from the viewing deck. I wonder if there were any swimmers at 5 am when it opened? I didn't check.

Later, we found a different door that took us to the pool deck, where we could see the beautiful arches and columns reflected in the water.

All To Ourselves

​With no swimmers, the water was smooth enough to study the tile work. It was tempting to grab our suits and make use. But I saw a sign that said something about swim caps. Really?

We explored the locker rooms since no one was around. Don wandered through the men's area and I went through the women's. It looked like there were a few "men's" dressing rooms, spilling over into the women's area. Hmm?

Medievel-Style Cloisters

There were some outside areas that we could have enjoyed, but the sun was getting low.

From the stairs, I peeked out one of the diamond panes and saw a little bas-relief panel on the wall. Surprises everywhere!

​Auditorium

While wandering upstairs, we saw some activity, through the door to the auditorium. A very gracious man invited us in to look around.

He told us they were setting up an event. He shared a little history and encouraged us to peek out at the covered terrace/walkway. He gave us some suggestions for exploring the campus, later. Nice guy!

Mystery Room

We continued to wander and wonder. I wasn't sure how this room was used today, but it was fun imagining it, when the Club opened in the thirties. Did women gather for lectures or musical performances? Were there once tables for reading and research?

The Women's Club Movement was much more than a social club. Women gathered to engage in recreation as well as education. They joined to get involved in civic activities and to rebuild their personal lives. 

Morgan's Bar and Lounge

The hotel's bar looked classy, with dark wood bar and spacious seating. We were so disappointed it was closed on Monday.

We have learned so many wonderful tidbits from locals, in hotel bars. Being a block from Berkeley's campus and being associated with the City Club, we could have met some very interesting people here.

Our Spot!

Since the bar was closed, we decided to make ourselves drinks in the room and carry them to one of the sitting rooms.

There were lots of game options. I spotted Scrabble and a chess board, nearby.   

Books and Art

But I was more drawn to the art and books. The walls held an exhibit by Risa Lenore. Beneath each painting was the "forgotten snapshot" that inspired the art. Oh how I love that idea!

Then we both flipped through some nearby books. I took a photo of one book, with plans to put it on my Christmas list. What a beautiful (and informative) book!

Exploring Campus

Before dinner, we wandered the campus on a balmy Monday night. We were impressed to see so many students out and about. Clusters of activity... dance, Taekwondo, drumming, yoga. 

As advised earlier, we wandered to Hearst Gymnasium, one of Julia Morgan's designs. It was spooky on the outside, but inside it was bright and active. Open doors revealed ballet and tango classes, karate and EMS training classes.

It was clearly Berkeley 2019. It was not 1929 or 1969! We wandered a few more blocks for a Chinese feast, then back to sleep well, at The Club!

Morning

We woke to sunshine, through our 3 windows. We dressed and headed early to Julia's Restaurant, for our complimentary breakfast.

It was extra nice having the breakfast option, since the restaurant had been closed the night before.

The simple buffet was not memorable, but the setting was perfect. There was an ornate fireplace and mirror, at one end. A wall of windows, looked out to a terrace, with potted flowers.

What a fun bit of news! RBG had been speaking at an auditorium, just a block away! It's too bad she couldn't have stopped by the historic Women's Club, afterwards... to mingle with the spirits of Julia Morgan and all the women from long ago... who would have fainted with joy to know that someday we would have a woman on the Supreme Court!

Our stay not only exceeded expectations, it took me on a little journey  back to childhood.

Bonus

In some odd way, our explorations reminded me of a day when I was about 9. My friend and I rode our bikes to downtown Grinnell, Iowa. We parked our bikes outside of my Catholic church and we tiptoed inside the unlocked doors. We explored and whispered and wondered and absorbed, the peaceful and spiritual space. I love it when a hotel stay, transports me back, to a special time in my memory!

I didn't allow myself to dwell on that too much, when we headed from our rental car into the land of luxury!

The Lobby

The enormous lobby was as magnificent as we remembered. Don and I briefly visited the hotel 3 years ago and put it on our "must stay here" list.

I remembered the swirling marble columns. They almost looked edible, like chocolate-caramel cheesecake!

The gilded ceiling detail made me think of empty frames. ​

I wanted some high scaffolding so I could pretend to be Michelangelo. What could I have painted inside those golden shapes?

​Check In

We checked in at the desk and I asked a few questions. I was sad when I discovered the key boxes were just for show. I really wanted to use a brass key with a gold tassel. 

I made sure to ask about the hours for the famed Tonga Room, that Don and I visited in 2016. Our desk clerk was excited to tell us the tropical bar/restaurant was open at 5, with live music at 8. Yay! Luckily we had packed the proper clothes for Tiki Time!

Wandering

There is something like 55,000 square feet of "function space" at the Fairmont. That doesn't include the restaurants. The place is big... 591 guest rooms & suites!  We got a little lost just looking for the proper elevator. But wandering is very fun at The Fairmont.

We took in lots of details in the lobby. The glass vases on the center table were lovely.​

Earthquake of 1906

I wandered early the next morning to take photos without people. It's easier to imagine the past with no guests on cell phones. The palms in their decorative containers, looked very vintage Hollywood to me! 

I tried to imagine what this space looked like in 1906, when the great earthquake hit San Francisco. The hotel had just been completed, but it took another year of repair before they opened. The building survived the earthquake, but the fires that followed, damaged the interior. 

Nearly 20 presidents have stayed at the Fairmont. Nearly all from President Taft to President Obama, have been guests. They probably used a secret elevator.

Celebs

There have been more celebrities than presidents though. I heard that Frank Sinatra always requested the same room on the second floor, so he didn't have to use the elevator. Imagine meeting him on the stairs!

I couldn't resist climbing! How often do you get to walk up marble steps and slide your hand over such a sleek railing. No one during our visit seemed to be using the stairs, so I felt like a little kid alone on the landing, spying down on my parents' party.

Statues and Mirrors

I wouldn't want to live in a palace with such decadence, but I loved being a guest for a night. I had to pause to study the marble lion and gold mirror. There are some surprises in that mirror frame, when you look closely.

The hotel's interior made a dramatic change in 1945. Dorothy Draper was the most famous interior designer of the time and she was called in for a major facelift. She brought in her "Modern Baroque" and transformed the hotel with her bold red fabrics and black lacquer.  It wasn't until 1999, that they removed her red carpet that covered the marble lobby floors.

The Venetian Room

We only had a quick peek in the Venetian Room. Evidently Ms. Draper's remodeling of this grand ballroom was really what got the hotel out of its slump in 1947. It became quite the dinner club.

 

Cirque Room

I love a good circus theme, so I was pretty curious about this fabulous Art Deco Bar.

There were 9 colorful murals, painted by the famed Bruton sisters, in 1933.  This was years before Ms. Draper did her decorating thing!

This whimsical space with all its curves and colors, was the first bar to open in San Francisco after the repeal of Prohibition. Sadly it was not open to us, during our stay. ​

Finding Our Room

We could have booked a room in the 23-story tower, that was added in 1961. The views are spectacular from most of those rooms.

But Don and I always prefer the historical experience (and sometimes the price) of staying in original rooms. We headed up to the third floor and down a hall, with some nice black and white photographs. When we stepped into our room 332, a classy photo image greeted us in the entry.

The room itself wasn't grand or over the top, but it was large and nicely updated, with more photos of San Fran scenes. Love it! The bathroom wasn't memorable, but I appreciated having a tub.

The bed, pillows and linens were comfy soft. There were good lamps and tables and a large TV. The colors were calm. No signs of Dorothy Draper.

There was a surprise Anniversary treat, waiting on a plate! The "N" was a chewy brownie and the chocolate covered strawberries were juicy-sweet. Luckily our comp snack made the "room bar" goodies less tempting. Don laughed when he picked up the tiny Pringles container. "Seven dollars?" 

View!

We didn't have a Tower Room with a view of The Bay, but we had a great view of the rooftop "Square" below.

The view was like a picture and I loved looking at it, through the original wood-framed window. The thick window was the only thing in the room that reminded me that our hotel was over a century old.

The Square

In the evening and morning, we enjoyed a little time exploring the rooftop garden that we could see from our room. Green grass, flowers, palms, trickling fountain... and an herb garden and honey beehives.

The garden gave us a good place to check out the architecture of the old hotel. We never figured out which room was ours. It did make us wonder about the rooms with terraces!

More Views From Square

When I walked to the railing of the garden, I found the best view. 

What fun watching cable cars going up and down Powell Street, just below. And there was Coit Tower and the Bay! That view inspired us to do some walking the next day.

Evening at Fairmont!

By 5:00, we were in our tiki clothes and on our way to the Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar!

We headed down the elevator to find the basement lounge which opened in 1945, when the hotel's pool was cleverly transformed into a Polynesian lagoon.

Here's a photo from 3 years ago, when Don and I sipped tiki cocktails and grinned at the floating band boat. We laughed each time a thunderstorm rumbled down on the water!

No Tonga Time for Us!

On the evening of our anniversary, we headed past some vintage displays and moved towards the glowing space. Then we were stopped by a man who announced, "We are closed for an event. Sorry." My jaw dropped. The man didn't really seem to care that we'd been told at the desk that it opened at 5. He wasn't impressed that it was our 40th anniversary and we'd come from Houston. He certainly didn't get the significance, when I told him I'd bought my flamingo dress online just for this night!  But he did take our photo and yes we smiled.

It would have been easier to take the news, if the doors had been closed. But we were able to see the Microsoft "event people" sitting around on laptops, using the space like an airport lounge. In fact Microsoft was using almost every event space in the hotel. I'm still trying not to be mad at Microsoft.

More Stairs

But, there was no time for sulking. We headed up another grand staircase.

The marble stairs brought us up to the Laurel Court Restaurant and Bar. 

When we visited 3 years ago, a piano player performed under the middle of 3 domes.

There was no piano music at 5:30 on our anniversary night, but the 3-domed space was lovely. Plus it was open. We can't take things like that for granted. In fact the whole Laurel Court space was closed down for 6 decades.

We made a quick costume change, (I just grabbed a sweater) and returned to the lounge where we made a toast to ourselves with French 75s! We thought about dining in the rounded room with ionic columns and murals... but we decided to move on.
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Off to Explore!

We celebrated the fact we were staying in the one of the best locations in San Francisco and we took off walking.

We had a drink at the top of Sir Francis Drake Hotel and we had a ridiculously fun, retro bite at Sears Fine Food!

Then we headed towards our hotel, but made a stop just across the street, at the Mark Hopkins. Drinks at "Top of the Mark" and then back to The Fairmont, where the flags welcomed us back.

Morning at Fairmont
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The next morning, we woke to lovely weather. We enjoyed our comfy hotel until late morning, then took advantage of our location once again. The hotel held our bags and allowed us to keep our car in valet until 4!

We headed off, walking DOWN Powell Street towards Fisherman's Wharf... with detours to Grace Cathedral and Chinatown. We ate lobster rolls and rode the cable car up to Nob Hill. One more perk of our hotel... All cable car lines meet at the top of Nob Hill, near the hotel.

What's Notable?

We had a great 24 hour stay at The Fairmont. Besides the glitches (due to Microsoft's takeover) the hotel was lovely and we were treated well.

There's so much we did not see or sample, but we had a ball... without making use of any of the numerous, ballrooms!  We didn't stay in a lavish suite, or even explore the Tower. We didn't get pampered in the spa and we didn't even wine and dine properly. We might have had a little more royal treatment if we'd spent more, but we left happy and full of memories and knowledge!

Did I mention those international flags on the porte-cochere? In 1945 The Fairmont hosted meetings that led to the creation of the United Nations! Wow! I love hotels with history! 

​Sweet Hotel in a Tiny Town

In October, Don and I spent one night in a cozy historic hotel, that was once called the Temperance House. 

I imagine the town had plenty of saloons and  hotels back in the day. Our sweet 2-story hotel overlooking the Pacific, was probably the only one that didn't smell like liquor.
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141 Years Later

When we pulled into town last month, the sweet yellow structure looked like a building from an old Western movie set... except for those cars.  

Today Mendocino has only about 900 residents, but tourism keeps things busy. Since it was October, we were able to pull up right in front. I think it's a different story in the summer, when there are more tourists than parking spaces.

Fifties to the Seventies

By mid-century, the dying lumber industry caused the town to shrink. Loggers were replaced by artists... at least that's what I heard.

Jennifer didn't say anything about the old hotel, but it was nearly a century old by the time she visited the town.   

Check In

It was fairly quiet in the parlor when we arrived around 4. We stepped inside to see some of the renovations that took place in 1975 when the rundown property was purchased, by R.O. Peterson.

I glanced up at the stained glass above us as we headed towards the desk. I'm guessing that was added in the seventies. I wish I could have found some before and after photos.

Don got us checked us in, through the window of the lovely Victorian lobby desk. The staff was friendly and not nearly as formal as the decor surrounding us.

I peeked in the bar, knowing it would be crowded later. I liked the little gremlin holding up the back bar. Obvious there was nothing original here, since The Temperance House served no liquor.

The Parlor

The polished steel fireplace was my favorite. It wasn't original to the hotel, but I believe it was over 200 years old.

A storm was predicted, so Don and I grabbed two chairs right in front of the fire. I was hoping for some real weather drama, but we only had a light rain.

Mendocino Cafe

The restaurant was all prepared and ready for guests at 5. It was Friday, so we expected some crowds.

We were warned by a head waiter (or someone who seemed to be in charge) to arrive before 8 if we wanted to be served. He explained that October was not their busy season, so they close when there's no business. We kept that warning in mind.

​​Tables by the Window

We decided to go for the less formal dining tables, in the parlor.

We grabbed a table by a window, although it was dark by then. My clam chowder was yummy and huge. Don's crab cakes were good, but tiny. 

Guest Rooms

The hotel website was a little confusing, since they described rooms in the original hotel and luxury Garden Suites in a different area.

We of course chose the oldest part of the hotel and yes, it did feel old! Our room #9 was in the back, at the end of a long and narrow hall. The warped floor was covered in worn carpet and creaked a bit on our journey.

I'm pretty sure we had the smallest room in the hotel. The flowered bed spread was faded and the satiny shams and dust ruffle had tear or two. But we did have a bathroom, behind two grand doors! (Some of the rooms had shared baths in the hall)  

Tall Window

Beside our tall window, sat the only chair in the room. I tried to sit once and the thing scared me with its sway. I let it hold my sweater instead.

The window looked out to the back of the property. I was sorry that it had been painted closed. But luckily the weather was decent and our room wasn't too stuffy. I think heating and cooling issues are common.

The Garden

We could access the back porch through a door in the hall. Somewhere back in all the garden growth, was the additional guest housing. Since rain was starting up, we didn't make good use of the garden.

I wondered about the wooden water towers that were scattered all over the small town. There's history to these towers, I'm sure.

From the rear, we could see the hotel's large tower and the curious shape of the old building.

The Front Balcony

I was a little jealous of the rooms that looked out on the front balcony.

However there was access to the balcony for all guests. Maybe I wouldn't have wanted a room, with guests sitting right outside my window.

Checking it Out

Don and I always make good use of hotel porches and verandas. 

We had hoped to have a glass of wine in the evening, on this one.

But the evening rain prevented that. Instead, we took our coffee out to the porch in the morning.

What an amazing view!

The Town!

Our very favorite hotel memories include stays where we enjoyed the hotel AND its surroundings. In the morning, Don and I made good use of the area around our hotel!

It's easy to see why movies have been filmed here! How is it possible that we simply walked out the hotel door and saw all this, on a morning stroll?

What's Notable?

This hotel stay was not about the hotel room.

Our memory of this hotel will be about the cozy fireplace in the parlor and the view from the upper porch AND the peaceful walk the next morning. Good memory for $143!

Then I looked on the website and saw the immaculate two-story hotel, with all its trim.

On Main Street Since 1890

It was hard to believe the hotel was nearly 130 years old. It almost looked like something created for Disney World's Main Street. 

The solid structure, known as the Russ Building, originally housed the Ferndale Bank on the first floor. The second floor held single rooms, suites, water closets and fireplaces. The Stick Style Eastlake Victorian, was built of Redwood on a brick foundation. 


Decorated Bay Windows

The elaborate Italianate detail surrounding the windows, was stunning. 

The hexagonal window was the most impressive. I found a photo from 1891, that showed a tower, extending up from that corner window. No cone shape above the window now, but still amazing!

Finding the Door

The double doors on the corner had a sign that sent us to a side entrance.

We followed the iron, hitching post horses and found a door leading to an entry, between lobby and restaurant.

In the entry, we found a friendly statue of a champion mule, named Loretta Jones. Loretta evidently once belonged to the current owner. I kind of liked her, with her festive leaf necklace. I greeted her every time we passed.

Lobby/Shop

We found the check-in desk in the back of Silva's Jewelry Store. That seemed odd at first, since it seemed like a grand hotel, should have a grand lobby.

But it made more sense when I remembered this area had been a bank before it was a hotel. It made even more sense when I learned that the current owners were gemologists long before they were hotel owners. They fell in love with the old hotel years ago and made Ferndale their new home.

Second Floor

We checked in and carried our bags past my horse friend and up a stairway. The second story held about 15 rooms.

A skylight brightened the dramatic landing with all its dark woodowork.

Hallway

I'm not sure what was behind the double doors at the end of the hall. 

Maybe it was the fancy corner suite, with the fabulous bay window.

Room #210 - The Olivia  

Our room actually had 2 doors. The first was near the cuckoo clock. It had some elaborate woodwork around the transom, but no number and no door knob. 

The next door was the entrance to our guest room... which had once been 2 rooms. When the second story was renovated, rooms were all expanded. Now, every other door opens to a room.

​Victorian Red

I had already peeked on the website to see our room, but I was still pleasantly surprised.

The room was much larger and fresher and comfier than I expected.

I'm all for authentic furniture, but it's a treat to have a luxurious king bed, instead of an antique standard. The red velvet couch was much more comfortable than it looked. The 14 foot ceilings removed any gloom, that an old hotel might offer.

Books or TV?

I had to laugh at the tiny TV on the cabinet across from the bed. I think they should have hidden that little modern reminder, inside the cabinet. 

As always, I was delighted that we had two bedside tables with lamps. That's common in chain hotels, but not expected in historic ones. I'd rather read a book than watch a tiny TV. The hotel was very quiet, so I appreciated the floor fan, which had a nice hum for sleeping.  
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Two Bathroom Pics

I always keep bathroom expectations low in old hotels. But, we had a decent sized bathroom with a window that went practically from floor to ceiling.

I liked the bathroom so much I had to take 2 photos. I especially liked the little pair of marble top tables... for our own stuff. It was nice having a tub and ample fluffy towels. If we'd needed a flashlight, there was one attached to the nightlight. If we'd needed a plunger (yikes) there was one nicely hidden inside a cloth bag, tied with a ribbon. Classy! No sarcasm there.

View

I do love windows and we had a few. It was nice having a view of the pretty town and sky, in the evening and morning.

Best of all, the window let me study the intricate trim up close.  Were those Christmas lights, outlining the building? I should have stepped out after dark to have a peek.

After Dark

It was dark soon after we checked in. There might have been some dining options in the small town, but we checked out the hotel's cozy tavern.

We sat at the old leather-top bar and took in the festive fall decor on the back bar. I was happy to see no fake cobwebs. We've stayed at too many old hotels in October and I get tired of that.

Cheers

Don and I celebrated with a Martini and Cosmo, made by our bartender named Brandy. We figured she gets enough comments about her perfect bartender name, so we talked about other things.

I spotted a nearby couple drinking coffee and decided they must be the owners. The place wasn't busy, so I headed over to the table beneath the beautiful ships and inquired.  I was right, and Lowell said I made his day, when I raved about the hotel.

VI Restaurant

We watched a few people come and go through the doorway to the Dining Room. "VI" was the name of the restaurant. It took me a while to realize those weren't Roman numerals, but initials.

There was a cozy area around a fireplace and a large space filled with dining tables. But we decided to stay put in the tavern.

Baby Spinach and Sliders

​Our meal was just right. My salad had squash, strawberries, walnuts, raspberry vinaigrette and Humboldt Fog cheese. Brandy had to explain that Humboldt was the county we were in... which gets a lot of ocean fog.

Don had pulled pork sliders. He happens to love pickles, so he was extra impressed. I loved the green apple coleslaw.

Morning

Before bed, we helped ourselves to coffee in the second floor sitting area. Decaf options meant I slept well in our luxurious bed, with humming fan.

In the morning, we got up early and walked around the charming town... or should I call it a village? There are over 200 Victorian buildings and a cemetery that climbs up a steep hill, on the edge of town. It was the perfect morning walk.

Breakfast

Breakfast was included with our stay, so took a window seat in the VI Restaurant. What huge windows!

Our eggs, bacon and potatoes were served by a sweet young "Texan" named Katie. We were delighted to share some Texas stories, mostly about her hometown of Bastrop. She had gone to school with our favorite young, talented blues musicians, The Peterson Brothers.  Oh how I love surprise conversations when we're traveling. I wish she could have pulled up a chair.

What's Notable?

Our stay at The Victorian was a package deal. I feel like we experienced the hotel and town, all together. The combination was just lovely, but it was it too perfect? I wondered, "What's the catch?"

During our morning walk, I kept an eye out for flaws. However, I didn't spot any tacky t-shirt shops or glitzy, ritzy, overpriced gift shops. I saw locals greeting one another on the sidewalk. I saw a resident or two in their yards. I even saw the pharmacist from Rexall Drugs, strolling down the walk with a mug of coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other. He said "Good Morning!" with a big smile. 

Okay, this hotel and town made me happy. I think we need to move!

On the Plaza, in Sonoma

I remember spotting the Swiss Hotel a couple years ago. It was right across from the historic Plaza in Sonoma. 

Porch Dining

Or maybe the folks dining at the cafe tables on the porch, made me hungry.

I chatted with a friendly gentleman and his pup. The place seemed very inviting.

Garden Patio

On that pretty fall day 2 years ago, Don and I were lured in for lunch.

There were two entrances. We went through the doors, with martini silhouettes, under the windows. We eventually found the lovely garden patio and feasted on pulled pork sandwiches and spinach salads!

Again

This past October, Don and I returned to the Swiss Hotel. 

This time we had reservations for one of the 5 rooms. I was excited to spend a night in the building that had been home to Don Salvadore Vallejo, in the mid 1800's.

From Home to Hotel

The words on the sign stated, " Swiss Hotel Since 1909", but the Vallejo home became a stagecoach stop and hotel, long before that. 

The hotel had at least a couple names, but it was called "Swiss Hotel" by the time the Masstelotto family bought it in 1923. The 4th generation is running it today.

Check In

Jenny checked us in at 3. She was very helpful, giving us hints on everything from wineries to parking. 

Jenny let us know where the continental breakfast would be served. She said there were trays available if we wanted to enjoy eating on the veranda. She was very cheery, yet professional. I wondered if she was family.

​Lobby

While Don finished up, I peeked around the lobby at old photos. There was a lone dining table in the front window, near an antique phone and clock. 

There was a cute little sitting area near the doorway to the dining room. I remembered from before, seeing that curious, square window/door between rooms.

​Dining Room

I also took a look in the dining room, which looked welcoming with white cloths and roses. 

While looking at some of the old photos, I was approached by Dawn, who was delighted that I was impressed with the history. She also graciously handed me a fancy little flashlight. "Just in case." She told me, without a hint of worry to her voice. She explained that there was a chance Pacific, Gas & Electric  would be turning off power in the night. Fire concerns... yikes.

​Up to Room 2

We headed for the hall where I spotted more photo covered walls... and an antique phone booth. I love phone booths.

Our room was in the opposite direction. We passed through a doorway which took us to another hall.

Was this a newer wing that had been added onto the back? Rats. I always prefer staying in the oldest part. But I was pleased, when we turned the key and walked into our own little entry, with 3 doorways.

Homey Suite

Our 3-room suite with its convenient vanity and contemporary art, felt more 1980's than early 1900's. But the space felt cozy-retro with angled ceilings and slanted floors.

The sitting room was a nice surprise with windows overlooking the garden patio. It was charming in a simple down home, grandma's guest room way. I loved the grapevines that were trying to grow in the bedroom window!

​Chat at the Bar

The bar was occupied by all locals when we arrived at 5. After a couple of days in touristy Napa and Sonoma, it was fun to be surrounded by people who knew one another, but were open to outsiders like us.

Don and our bartender talked World Series for a while. When I asked friendly guy (so wish I remembered his name) where he was from, he pointed to a photo on the wall of his mom. He said he grew up in Sonoma and his mom worked at the bar. He had good memories of coming over after school for burgers.

Ghastly Photos and Ghostly Occupants

​A couple at one of the tables asked if we were staying at the hotel. The woman offered to take our picture. My creepy (drunken) expression does not match my pleasant, relaxed memory.

After taking our photo, the woman asked if we were staying in Room 5, which is evidently the most haunted. She said she'd had a friendly ghost encounter in the restroom once. "Some think the ghost is Freddy." She said as she pointed to a photo of Freddy the cook, in 1945.

Cozy Bar Vibe

On the wall, I spotted a photo of the old bar and compared it to one I took 2 years ago. It looks like little has changed in 4 generations. 

I was so delighted that the small gathering of folks made us feel at home. Sometimes Don and I feel intrusive, when we sit at a bar with regulars. 

​Regulars and Celebrities

I had a good time checking out some of the people photos that covered the walls. There were quite a few famous faces, like President Kennedy. Not sure how may actually visited the bar.

My favorite photos were of the local celebrities. There were images of townspeople in aprons, in overalls... by a barber pole. I would love to know the stories behind these people!

More Faces!

Above the double doors, there were more faces smiling down!

Don and I walked under those faces and took a peek through those doors to check for open tables. The cafe tables near the sidewalk were all full.

To the Veranda

So we headed to the porch upstairs, with it's long planks of redwood. Were those actual holes, patched with metal?

The wind was beginning to pick up, as the sun lowered. ​There was an eerie feel in the air. We had heard from people in the bar that the schools had decided to close, in anticipation of the power outage.

I was still a little confused about how this was going to help prevent the spread of the fires. We sat there on the porch, wondering... and remembering our lunch at the Swiss Hotel 2 years ago. The devastating fires of 2017, started up as soon as we returned home to Texas.

Dinnertime

By the time we headed back down to the sidewalk tables, it was dark. The tables were still full, but it was entertaining hearing all the local chatter. 

We just got one and shared it like we were at the malt shop! It was smaller than we expected for $12. but plenty potent. Yum!

Morning

We headed up for bed, wondering if we would need our flashlight at some point. Our phones were charged and we were checking out in the morning. So no real worries.

I woke after midnight when our room suddenly got quiet. The clock was no longer glowing. In the early morning I used the flashlight/lantern to get dressed and tiptoed downstairs. There were actually candles lighting the hallway and one, flickering inside the phone booth.

All Well So Far

​I wandered around the Plaza and all was quiet. When I returned Dawn was busy getting the continental breakfast ready. She apologized that she couldn't make coffee. ​

Don and I skipped showers and checked out early, to get on the road before traffic got worse. Cars were already backed up at non-functioning traffic lights. We felt lucky that the power glitch had only slightly inconvenienced us. 

What's Notable?

Fire concerns will always be a part of our Swiss Hotel memories. It wasn't long after we left Sonoma that the Kincaid Fire began spreading and destroying hundreds of homes and buildings. 

Mostly I'll remember the homey feel of our historic hotel, bar and restaurant. Our hosts and servers were all gracious and welcoming, despite the worries they may have had. The locals were also friendly and entertaining. The building itself was charming with all its history and the location was hard to beat! 
​Hope to return!