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Lodge on the Desert There were dramatic skies when Don and I arrived in Tucson, last January.  The rustling palms and dark clouds were ominous, but a sudden glow of sun, made the entrance to the old resort looked bright and welcoming. In fact it looked new. The Old Resort Actually, Lodge on the Desert is nearly 90 years old. I found this photo displayed with others, inside the lobby. It shows the modest lodge in earlier years.  The "Lodge" (the hotel's name is a mouthful!) began as a private residence in 1931. The owners expanded their 4-bedroom property and began welcoming guests to their desert oasis, in 1936. New Lobby The lobby and staff was very welcoming, but our room wasn't ready. No problem. I studied old photos and news clippings.  Staff member Caitlyn was eager to share about the hotel's history. She said the old lodge almost became a strip mall a couple decades ago. Luckily the property was rescued from demolition in 1997! Massive renovations and additions made the lodge lovely again. 1950's The lodge began with only 7 guest rooms. By the fifties, there were many more rooms. Guests could swim or play pingpong... or just relax on a chaise lounge with a view of the Santa Catalina Mountains.  By the 1950's the hotel had become popular with filmmakers and stars. Many classic western films were shot in the Tucson area. The people involved in them, sometimes ended up at Lodge on the Desert. Filming in 1915 I wish I had photos of some of those celebrity guests. The Lodge website mentions John Wayne, Jimmy Stewart and Paul Newman. My grandmother wasn't on that list, but I have a photo of her when she was in a film, shot in Tucson.  Filmmaking was happening in Tucson, as early as 1915. That's when my grandmother (age 10) played the part of a child, who was hit by a car. She ran home with a 5 dollar gold piece for her small part. The Pool in 2023 In 2008, 69 new rooms were added, along with this contemporary pool.   Our stay was too short! I regret that we didn't at least make time for the hot tub! Cactus Garden After we got our room key, we wandered the grounds.  Today the property has expanded to 5 acres and it was easy to get lost.  I have no clue how many different kinds of cactus we spotted.  I don't know about wild life. Desert snakes? I only saw a metal donkey.    The garden was so lovely, with so many varied shapes and shades of green. Comparing! We arrived at the Lodge, after an afternoon at Saguaro National Park. It's hard to compete with that park's amazing desert landscape!  But the lodge grounds competed well. They were appealing in a totally different way.  The brick-lined path was neat and tidy after the dusty park. Our luggage rumbled along easily. The Buildings The shapes of the buildings were as varied as the cactus. Well, actually the building shapes were mostly straight lines, but the structures were all different.  The levels and arrangements were unique. It reminded me of building a village with wooden blocks. Which is Old? I knew that the original stucco buildings went back to the 1930s. I knew the new buildings had been added over the decades.  But honestly, it was hard to tell which buildings were original. They did a great job with the additions. Old Pueblo I assume the original structures were all single level.  I tried to find something that matched this old postcard. Almost. But this was actually a second story deck and guest room.  I loved the mountains in the distance. This view made it feel like we were still out in the middle of nowhere. But Tucson has actually grown up around the 5-acre property. Casita #239 I skipped Expedia and booked a Casita Room by phoning the hotel.  The website was a little confusing and I wanted to be sure we got a room in one of the original buildings. Our room was on the second level, overlooking the cactus gardens.  Our 2 windows offered a good view of the village-like property.  There was something so soothing about the earthy colors! Fireside Casita Double Queen When I phoned to book, I spoke with Caitlyn and told her I was hoping for one of the historic rooms, with beamed ceiling and fireplace.  Lucky for us, the vintage Casita Rooms were cheaper than the recently renovated luxury rooms. (This one was $222. on a weekend.) Caitlyn steered me towards a vintage double queen room that had beams and fireplace. Guest Ranch Rooms The 2 queen beds hardly took up any space in the room. The original guest rooms at the lodge were built large to welcome guests who came for long periods in the winter.  The 19-inch thick adobe walls meant we didn't hear our neighbor's smoke alarm, when it went off in the night. She apologized when we met her outside in the morning. Large Bathroom! Our bathroom wasn't as updated as most of the lodge rooms, but we had a crazy amount of space.
There was a dressing area with dressers and fridge and coffeemaker and a huge closet. Sitting Area I was excited about our sitting area with the corner fireplace.  But we hardly had time to make use, since we had friends to visit in Tucson.  In the morning, we at least enjoyed coffee with the fireplace! A Quick Visit to Cielos For many years, the lodge didn't have a restaurant. Today the hotel restaurant & bar, attracts lots of travelers and locals.  The gated entrance from the parking lot made it clear that Ceilos attracts more than hotel guests.  We took a different journey, that took us through the gardens. I loved the old mission-feel, with the bells! Patio Dining It was January, so the beautiful Saltillo-tiled patio was empty.  But there was a 4-sided fireplace, so I'm guessing crowds came a little later. It was just 5 pm.  Just past the covered part of the patio, I found the restaurant entrance. I didn't disturb the early diners, who were in a different room.  But I enjoyed a peek in this space, with rough-hewn beams, colorful planters and curious lighting fixtures. Happy Hour! Don and I only had 30 minutes before heading off to meet friends. But we couldn't miss Happy Hour, with our complimentary margaritas!  This is not how the bar looked at 5 pm. It was actually full of guests. (my photo is from morning) Don and I grabbed the only remaining table. Ford Treasury Cookbook Our bartender was a little rushed with the crowds, but he made it over to us and we placed our order.  As he dashed off to get our complimentary margaritas, I pulled out my cookbook. Cookbook Encounter! When Luis returned with our food and drink, I didn't waste time. "Luis, do you know if the restaurant serves Banana Chantilly anymore?" Luis was pretty sure they didn't.  Before our bartender could escape, I showed him our 1963 cookbook, with recipes from restaurants and hotels all over the U.S. The featured recipe for The Lodge, was the sweet meringue treat. The vintage illustration was from a time, back when the dining room was closed in the summer. Photo Time! Luis was maybe not as impressed with the old book, as some older folks who remember driving around the country in a Ford... (me)  But he was game to take a photo with us! Thanks to the guest at a nearby table, who took our photo. She made sure to get some Saguaro cactus art in our photo! Passing the Book Before long the book was being passed around.  The other guests were mostly our age. Retired winter travelers, who were curious about the book and the watercolor image. showing an old sign and barbed wire fence. Award Winning Margarita I forgot to take a photo of our margaritas and our guacamole.  I stole a photo off the internet and now the image is making me crave a margarita and guac feast! The Cielos Margarita won World Championship Margarita, in 2019! Peaceful Night Don and I returned from our friend meet up, with a box of pizza and salads.  It was lovely walking along the glowing pathways, to our casita.  I made use of the hotel robe and enjoyed my pizza by the fire! Morning We had a long travel day the next day. I hated leaving without more exploring.  What was this big lawn for? Weddings? I wish we could have had a real meal at Cielos. But we had to get on the road. What's Notable? I absolutely love how this hotel feels. Isolated and cozy and safe, as if it were still in the middle of the desert. Now, the 103-room lodge, is an Urban Hacienda, surrounded by neighborhoods and busy streets.  I love that the lodge was rescued and renovated. I love the history. (It was even used for air force officer training during WWII! But mostly I loved the quiet cactus gardens and our spacious room with fireplace! I would love to return and spend some time on the restaurant patio and around the pool!
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February Stop in Arizona Don and I made Flagstaff our third stop on our road trip from Houston to Sacramento.
We were eager to finally stay overnight at the hotel we discovered and toured, 5 years ago. Opened in 1927 We arrived at the corner of Aspen and San Francisco, on a blustery Wednesday afternoon.  I was surprised to see the downtown streets and sidewalks looking so lively. Lobby The lobby was as intriguing as I'd remembered.  The space was empty at 4 pm, but the sound of clinking glasses and cheerful chatter drifted in from Rendezvous, the hotel's coffee shop/bar, on the corner of the building. Opposite End The opposite end of the lobby showed 2 sets of stairs.  One headed up to guest rooms and a sitting space. The down staircase, lead to the hotel's original cocktail lounge. Arches Besides the painted beams and tiles, I was most in love with the arches. Above the staircase, there was a small painting inside an arched alcove.
Between the lobby and Rendezvous Bar, there was a glassed in arch, filled with liquor bottles. More Arches We walked through archways to go up the stairs.
Through an arched opening, we found an extra lounge area on the lobby level. Otis Elevator The elevator even had an arched entrance.  Hotel Monte Vista was the first to install a self-service elevator in Arizona. Luckily it has been updated, but mostly we took the stairs. Second Floor Our hall on the second floor had some jazzy chandeliers and classic, exposed pipes. We were across the hall from the Bob Hope Suite. If I'd only done my research ahead of booking, I could have requested a celebrity named room.
The bartender told us later that she'd never been in the Debbie Reynold's room, but she heard it was a nauseating bubble gum color. I would have loved that. Room 206 For about $75.00 we were able to get a fine room overlooking San Francisco Street.  There were some wild looking cats, on the wall. Golden Walls Those walls were impressive, on their own.  A double set of windows let in some light and caused our walls to shimmer a bit. Gotta love some shimmery walls! Extras I took careful note of some of the other little extras, that pleased me.
I liked having a ceiling fan... the bathroom and closet doors had charming knobs... the old tub the plug, that couldn't get lost... and the little display of succulents, next to the bed. I appreciate these things. The Cocktail Lounge At the southwest end of the building we found the cocktail lounge, right where it opened during prohibition.
Evidently the popular speakeasy was shut down in 1931, but came back to life a couple years later. There are also some underground tunnels that were involved in the bootleg history. Bogey & Candy Machines I love historic hotel bars, especially when I can picture some of the past famous guests enjoying them.  There were many famous guests, thanks to Flagstaff's scenic location for movies. Humphrey Bogart was one of the hotel's most famous guests. It is rumored that one scene from Casablanca was shot here. Pool Hall or Ballroom? Don and I tried to experience a little of the historic cocktail lounge, but we didn't stay long.  The classic bar counter was filled up and the spacious, once-a-ballroom-area, was crowded with pool playing, locals. (this photo was taken earlier) We wimped out and headed for the slightly more subdued Redezvous bar, upstairs. . In the Day This is a peek through the hallway window to Rendezvous, during the day.  The light coming through the windows made the corner, coffee shop/bar warm and inviting, with temps in the teens. At Night At night, the atmosphere at Rendezvous was friendly and upbeat. It seemed like the staff behind the bar, actually enjoyed their work. Don and I were lucky to get 2 seats at the bar, where Liz served us and amused us with her booming laugh and her own cocktail creations.  We also enjoyed an interesting chat with Paul, who sat beside me. His work with the Forestry Service was actually interesting enough. But I especially liked his stories about growing up next to Buddy Holly's family in Lubbock. In fact his mom ended up marrying Buddy's brother, in later years. Night at the Hotel It was so darn cold, that Don and I lost interest in wandering around in search of dinner.  When we found out the hotel had an walkway to a Thai restaurant right next door, we were thrilled. No coats needed and the food was amazingly good. Plus, we got to experience a meal, where the original hotel coffee house once sat. Good-Bye Flagstaff We had a good sleep. The nearby trains didn't keep us up and the hotel ghosts didn't wake us. There are stories...
It also helped that our stay was on a weeknight, which helped cut down on bar noise. In the morning we enjoyed our complimentary coffee in Rendezvous, before heading out on the road.
What's Notable? Hotel Monte Vista is reasonably priced gem in the center of an interesting city, just off of Historic 66. I'm guessing in summer, it's packed with travelers. However, I don't think we met or even saw another hotel guest in the charming hotel, with 73 rooms. We seemed to be the only travelers, in a happening place, filled with locals. Maybe they should go back to the original name, "The Community Hotel". That was the hotel's name when it opened, because the townspeople had contributed to its existence. Grand Canyon 2015 Last fall, we spent 2 nights at the Grand Canyon's South Rim.
After one night at the more well known, El Tovar, we moved to Bright Angel Lodge, next door. It was about half the cost and turned out to be a fun change in atmosphere. Built in 1935 The Lodge sits at the top of Bright Angel Trail Head, overlooking the Grand Canyon. It was constructed nearly 30 years after El Tovar was built.  Back in 1905, wealthy tourists began traveling by train to vacation at the exclusive El Tovar resort. But the automobile opened the west to more than just rich tourists. There became a need for more modestly priced lodging. Bright Angel was the answer. Designed by a Woman This may have been the more modest of the two hotels, but it was an beautiful lodge, featuring rock and logs which were designed to blend and harmonize with the wall of the canyon.
But even more mind-boggling to me, was the thought of a woman in the 1930's being in charge of design and construction! The Lobby There was a welcoming, laid back feel to the lobby. So many western lodges have made me think of Lincoln Logs... which is a fun thing.  But these smooth brown logs, just made me downright hungry. Toostie Rolls! That's all I could think of. Thunderbird Towards the rear of the lobby was a cozy sitting area around a large stone fireplace. Above the stonework was a colorful Thunderbird, that Ms. Colter called, "The Bright Angel of the Sky".
A few years ago, Don and I stayed at another Colter designed hotel. La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona was just as impressive as this, but evidently Mary Colter believed Bright Angel was her ultimate achievement. The Color I haven't researched enough to know if these were the original colors, painted on the doors and shutters.  But I love the colors!  The geometric designs, bold colors and Native American symbols were probably my favorite part of the building.
There was something just whimsical and primitive about the shapes and colors... especially against all the earth, log and stone. The Rear This is actually the back of the building, but it faces the canyon.  So really this is the side where people spend most of their time, wandering along the rim and watching the sunset towards the left and the sunrise towards the right... or the sunset in the reflection of the glass. Our Cabin Unlike El Tovar, there are no guest rooms in the lodge. Scattered nearby, there are a few cabin buildings that house about 90 lodging units.  We were in the Powell House with its orange door and blue framed windows. Before even entering, we were excited to find a parking space right in front of the door. This was a treat after many lodge stays with distant parking lots. One Story We also had no stairs once we got inside.  No hikes down long hallways and up and down stairs! Our Corner Our room was in the stone section of the building.  You can see our wonderful corner window, surrounded in pine trees. One Hall Well, there was a little hall to walk down, but it was cute. Knotty pine, western style rugs, loggy trim!
Our room #6141, was on the left at the end. The door with shutter/slats made me wonder about noise or privacy. But once we opened the door we found our own little hall with 2 more doors to our guest room and bathroom. Open and Airy  There was nothing fancy here, but it was so comfy and airy, with light walls and beams and lots of windows. Mixing New and Old It was updated just enough. I liked the porcelain doorknobs and iron hinges.  The furniture was obviously not from the thirties, but the style was close enough. Old Windows, New Bathroom The windows were a huge plus. There were at least 6, including the bathroom window. Something about screens and wooden windows gave the room a summer camp or sleeping porch feel. I love that!
And the bathroom was spotless and updated nicely. They even had the good sense to keep the original wooden mirror with its handy lower nook. Bright Angel's Western Saloon Our bartender was far too busy (or maybe just unfriendly) to be available for all the questions I wanted to ask about the old saloon.  The bar itself had a lot of history, with old photos and even iron horseshoes under layers of shellack. Murals The place was empty when we first entered, so I got a good look at the fabulous murals.  The yellowed images, behind glaring glass were quite entertaining! One whole wall was devoted to scenes of Hopi life, cooking, dancing, celebrating! Behind the Bar We had a good view of one colorful image behind a row or beer bottles.
I loved the cowboy with hat and scarf, clinking his glass above the head of the guy... who'd had one too many. And then there was the tourist woman riding her canyon mule!  And what whacky tourist scenes! I loved the goofy tourists wandering along the canyon wall, with binoculars and cameras. I have no idea when these were painted! Best Entertainment But the saloon, was the most fun once Barry Brenner sat down in the corner with his four guitars and began filling the place with music. He sported a cowboy cool beard and a hat to match and a voice that fit his "Blues Roots Music" well.  It was impossible to get bored as he moved from guitar to guitar (his girls) and changed his sound from honky tonk to ragtime to country. He only comes to perform (from California) twice a year. So we lucked out. Hungry At the lodge we had two dinner options. The Arizona Room had the big windows with canyon views, but it was too dark to see out. So we headed for the cafe with a Thunderbird etched in the glass.
No table cloths or bow-ties in this cafe, but it was just what we needed. We walked through the main dining room, towards the cozy booths in the back.  We were handed a menu with the same design from when Bright Angel first opened! This "Coffee Shop" had been one of Fred Harvey's famous eateries and the menu cover was classic!
The Harvey House restaurants and hotels were known for good food and service, but sometimes old recipes don't hold up. I was intrigued to see they still served up the original recipe of the Harvey House salad. The sunflower seeds, cucumber and slivers of carrot and beets gave the salad a good crunch. The lemon dressing made the little feast taste like desert! And the lace doily gave the whole thing a vintage touch! Good beef stroganoff, too! . Best Meal from Bright Angel More memorable than our dinner in the cafe, was the hotdog meal we had on the edge of the canyon.  The lodge had a handy snack shop where you could purchase hot dogs, coffee or ice cream. We grabbed hotdogs and chips and hiked up a ways for a little picnic. That was the best view I ever had, while eating a hotdog! What's Notable? Besides being just steps from the edge of the canyon, my favorite part of the stay was the Fun Factor. Maybe if it had been summer and the lodge had been overrun by families and kids, I wouldn't have felt so much like a kid, myself.
There was just such a delightful feel to the place with all the colors and the whimsical art murals, that it brought out the kid in me. Of course hotdogs and tootsie roll logs and honky-tonk music can bring out a little youth in all of us!
A Harvey House Grand Resort in 1905 I've been curious about the history of The Harvey House Hotels, since I saw Judy Garland in "The Harvey Girls". This was one of Fred Harvey's grander plans.
In the late 1800's, he envisioned the Grand Canyon attracting wealthy tourists, who might want to stay a while. Today the hotel charges a couple hundred a night, for a tiny room. So Don and I (not being wealthy) stayed just a night. El Tovar in September Mr. Harvey died before he got to see this 4-story hotel completed. That made me feel extra lucky, when Don and I arrived last fall.  It was also lucky that Fred Harvey had sons and grandsons who were able to oversee the limestone and pine construction. If he'd had daughters, would they have helped with construction plans? Or would they have been only welcomed as Harvey Girls, waiting on tables in crisp, white aprons? Near the Rim The Harvey Hotels were always built near the railroad, to accommodate travelers.  El Tovar was also built near the railroad, but it was situated just 20 feet from the Canyon's south rim. The roof is barely visible in the upper right of this photo. Details The rear of the hotel shows the long, shingled roof and fancy tower and turret.  The only way you can get this view is by looking across a bit of the canyon. Ahh! The Porches! I do love porches and I'm sure the guests made good use back in the day... smoking cigars or fiddling with parasols, while they rocked.
I wonder if the porch ever had this many empty rockers during the summer months, 100 years ago? Porch on the North I found an unoccupied swing on the porch, overlooking the canyon. Don and I sat for a while in the evening, chatting with a couple seated nearby.
I will always remember our conversation. He was about 65 and was seated in a wheelchair. He shook his head and seemed surprisingly good humored as he talked about the complications of maneuvering his wheelchair in their cramped historic guest room. His wife quietly shared with me that he'd been unable to walk since he was hit by a drunk driver, 15 years earlier. I sat on that swing a while after they left and reminded myself, "Beth, you have no right to complain. About anything. Ever!" Cozy Interior The log interior was dim, but cozy. Such a strong ceiling of peeled logs, held up by brown, varnished posts!  The structure brought me back to bored summer afternoons, as a kid. I loved constructing log cabins out of toothpicks and Elmer's glue. I somehow thought my cabins would look sort of like this. They never did. Time for the Newspaper This old lodge took us back in time, with the furnishings and decor. But the lack of wifi and bad cell service did an even better job.  It was odd to see so many people sitting around, reading books and newspapers... and talking with each other! The Red Carpet This carpeted stairway to the Mezzanine Lounge, looked pretty grand. It also looked a bit our of place.  There were rustic log beams, a plush velvety carpet, a Swiss inspired cutout railing, a very serious portrait and an awesome wooden box for mailing your postcards! The Mezzanine I liked the second floor lounge for two reasons. For one, I was a guest and I got to march right up those red stairs, past the sign that announced, "hotel guests only".  Of course no one was checking for keys or ID. But 3 years ago, Don and I were "non-guests" and obeyed the bold sign. When we were visited the canyon back then, we peeked in the hotel and dreamed about returning someday as guests. Second Reason... The View! I loved the circular hole in the floor of the mezzanine. I love being able gaze downward for a little nonchalant people-watching!  However, there wasn't much going on, so I enjoyed the close up view of the buffalo and a few other critters! To the Room I like to take photos of hotel hallways. You can tell a lot about a place by the hall. The upper hallway had nice rugs and wood trim.
The colorful Native American images on the wall, added a nice touch. By the time we headed to our "basement quarters" to find room 6402, the walls and floor had become less decorated. Cozy I'll say cozy, instead of tiny. (I swore I wouldn't complain) I'm quite fine with small rooms, but there were no real hints of the old hotel, down in this renovated section.  It was clean and the bathroom was attractive with retro tile work, but I do love the authentic old stuff. A Tight Squeeze When we entered our room, the wardrobe doors were open to reveal an actual TV, which is something most National Park Lodges don't offer.
It was pretty comical moving our few bags into the room. Even with the wardrobe doors closed, I could barely walk to the other side of the bed. It made me pretty glad I wasn't in a wheelchair. Dining at El Tovar The restaurant was a nice combination of cozy and elegant. There were no Harvey Girls in long aprons, but there were black bow ties, which the women used to wear.  The linens, log beams and stone fireplace made the atmosphere rustic, yet classy. By the Fire! We lucked out with the perfect table. Not only did we have a snug little spot with a fire warming our backs, but we had a nice view of the whole dining room.
When you're on a 28-day road trip with your husband, you don't mind being distracted by what's going on around you. It just gave us more to talk about! Cookbook Encounter with Tom! Our waiter, Tom was the best. Not only was he an expert on the hotel's history, but he was more than happy to take a look at the old Ford Motor Cookbook, which I had dragged to dinner.  It turns out Tom has been collecting hotel memorabilia for 35 years, since he became employed by the hotel. He actually knew about the vintage cookbook, which featured El Tovar, with a recipe for Beef Stroganoff. Tom has also written his own book or two. He happily posed with me and the book... then explained to us what was going on, when the whole dining room began to gasp! Excitement Up High While we were chatting with Tom, we suddenly became aware that diners were laughing and sort of shrieking... and staring upward. A cute little ringtail cat (which is not part of the cat family) was darting in and out of the beams.  Tom assured us, it was no big deal. "The ringtails just like the sugar packets..." He said the hotel has someone who handles trapping the little guys and transporting them elsewhere. Around the Hotel If El Tovar had been in the middle of nowhere, we would have been delighted to just stay put inside.
But there was so much activity just a couple steps away, on the porch. There were painters to watch and Native American dancers and musicians performing. The Canyon And obviously, there was the canyon... right there.  We had to share the sunset with other tourists... but not too many. I think the tour buses were gone by then. The Wall I ran out to the wall to take photos at sunset and sunrise. Sometimes the wall was crowded with tourists and sometimes empty.
I loved that pretty little wall that separated the tourist world, from nature. From that wall, we could see a mile across to the other side! Wow! What's Notable? We got to experience a hotel that was once only available to the wealthy. Back in the day, only the rich could afford the journey, or the cost of a stay at El Tovar. Travelers from the east probably felt very special as they enjoyed the rustic and ritzy lodge, in such an isolated part of the country. Today there's nothing elite about the place... except the price.
Tourists wander through the hotel and stop in the gift shop, or enjoy a few minutes on a rocker. I love knowing that families in vans and senior groups in tour buses, can all enjoy a piece of this lodge history. But I will always remember the fun of being a guest at sunrise and sunset. At those times, I could imagine the setting as it was 100+ years ago, when so few could make it to this magical and isolated place!
The North Rim There's only one lodge within the park at the Grand Canyon's North Rim.
That means you need to reserve a room about a year in advance. Don booked our 1 night a year ago and we ended up with a month long road trip planned around it. Perched on Rock This was our first view of the lodge. We parked and walked out to Bright Angel Point and headed back to see this view.  What an impressive sight! It looked like the rocky canyon just grew some windows and a rooftop! A Windy Walkway The walkway where I stood to take the photo was pretty exciting. The wind was whipping at my camera, forcing me to wear the strap around my neck like a good tourist.
We headed out to see the canyon view, which was stunning... and then as we turned around, it was the image of that amazing building that lured us back. Lodge Terrace During our fall road trip, Don and I sort of became experts on lodge terraces and porches. By the time we had reached the lodge we had already been impressed by some pretty good ones.  But this view, the chairs and the surrounding stonework made the terrace on the east side, hard to beat. Especially in the morning when we had it to ourselves. But why didn't they give us a fire in that gigantic fireplace? The West Side On the other side of the building we had to fight for chairs at sunset.  Don and I caught some good ones earlier, with a little coffee to warm us up. Sharing the Sunset It was just September, but the air was chilly by the time the sun dropped. But who could complain?  The jackets started to zip and cameras clicked... and everyone stared west. No one seemed to notice the second sunset that was happening, in the lodge windows! The Lodge's Simple Side To glance at the lodge's north side, you would never imagine the stunning limestone and log image on the other side.  This view of the building looked like a really nice Boy Scout Camp, not an entrance to arguably the best view in the U.S. Inside It started to get cozy the moment we walked through the doors.  Leather furniture and woven rugs warmed up the walls and floors. Looking Up I figured it might be a good idea to scrunch down in a leather chair to study what was up above! There were painted surprises on the beams...
...and the lighting fixtures were especially intriguing. We got a seat near the window in the Sun Room, after dark. The window reflection did an odd trick with the image of the oddly shaped light. Its shape was repeated (in the glass) ... out into the night! Brighty of the Grand Canyon Of all the curious things to absorb inside the lodge, the bronze statue of Brighty was my favorite. I remember the children's book (vaguely) about the gentle little burro who was found in the canyon.
The photographs helped tell the story of the real burro who was loved by many, including Teddy Roosevelt. It was odd to imagine this furry little guy befriending so many, long before this lodge was even built. Built When? This is the Sun Room, when there was no sun shining. It looked pretty much the way it did when the lodge was built in 1927-28.  There was a fire that damaged most of the lodge, but they were able to rebuild using much of the original stone in 1937-38. It was pretty peaceful when we sat on the big couches after a late dinner. So peaceful that a lot of people were falling asleep. Earlier From the upper lobby we spotted the Sun Room when we first checked in. You could see the canyon through the massive glass windows.
This was our 5th National Park lodge on our road trip and the first that had lounge seating set up in rows, as if the windows were movie screens. At sunset tourists became part of the movie scene, as they gathered at the windows. Our Lincoln Log Cabin There has never been actual lodging in the lodge, but there have always been cabins.  Our "Western Cabin" was just steps from the lodge entrance and the sight of it with rounded logs, stone fireplace and cozy porch, just made me grin. Cozy Inside There was a spacious feel with 4 windows and the raised, log-beamed ceiling.  The wood furniture was quaint, the 2 queen beds were cozy soft, the curtains on iron rods fit the scene. And the sweet fireplace even had a heart shaped stone! Cute Bathroom I loved the green tile in the bathroom and the square wooden window. The tub looked downright luxurious, compared to what we often find in a park lodge. This was all was good.
In fact I was in love with our cabin, even though we had to get a maintenance man's help to get the key to work. He worked long and hard, but it was determined that it couldn't be fixed. He warned us not to close the door until we found a solution. The Darn Door After many failed attempts we found ourselves on the cabin porch talking with a lodge manager, I will call Ms. Grinch.  She had a similar smile and she played down our problem, the way The Grinch did when Cindy Lou Who was concerned about her Christmas tree being taken away. Ms. G. grinned and gave me her cheery solution. "We have no other rooms and we can't make your key work. So just give a call to maintenance when you need to go in or out." A Little Fussing If Ms. G. had been kinder with her approach, I wouldn't have bothered. But she bugged me, so I spoke up in my best Cindy Lou Who voice, asking for some kind of compensation for our trouble. Ms. G. seemed to have a hard time responding, so I suggested a voucher for dinner.
She said she could do breakfast. Then a while later she returned with another key to tell us the great news that they'd found another cabin after all. We lugged our bags to a similar cabin, with a much smaller porch and Ms. G. gave us a chipper little smile. She didn't really say this, but her attitude spoke, "Aren't we glad we have a nice little cabin now? Let's not be complainers. Ba-bye!" Don and I had some drinks on our Old Hickory rockers before heading back to the the lodge for dinner. Dining Room Earlier I peeked into the dining room as they were setting tables.  What an incredible view, with windows overlooking the canyon to the west and south. Dark by Dinner The dining room began filling up before sunset and by the time of our 8:45 reservations, the windows were dark.
But our table at the south end had a great view of the whole room and we had the special treat of being served by Maria, who had served us dinner at Big Bend National Park lodge in Texas, 8 months earlier. We gave her a big surprise by remembering (mostly thanks to Don's memory) and then we enjoyed a good feast of Bison Meatloaf, potatoes and snap peas! Pre-breakfast Hike We woke early after a good night's sleep, despite the sounds of gusting winds and scampering squirrels on the roof.  We headed out to Bright Angel Point before the sun rose and had some spectacular views. Back to the Lodge As the sun rose higher, we warmed up on the terrace. Then it was time to find out about breakfast.  I was pretty sure Ms. Grinch assumed our new cabin assignment had cancelled out our free breakfast. Determined If I hadn't been so irritated by the Ms. G's fake smile, I wouldn't have worried about getting a free breakfast. She wasn't on duty yet, so I had to go through about 4 staff members before someone printed out a voucher.
Our Eggs Benedict and omelet wasn't really worth the $27.00 we should have paid. But the view and our gracious waiter made our breakfast perfect. We tipped him well. What's Notable? I may have nagged about that silly manager in my way too long write up, but she'll be forgotten and it's the breathtaking view that I'll remember!  Our hikes and meals and lodge lounging all included this stunning scenery. And when we headed back to our comfy little storybook cabin, those were the images that were in my head... when it hit the pillow!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
July 2024
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