Don and I knew just a bit about our hotel before arriving.  We had learned that rancher, J.E. Pierce built the hotel in 1906, since the area was prospering from 2 new railroads.  Suddenly there was a new town that needed a name.  Pierce pushed for the town to be named "Thank God",  but not all agreed.  The name Blessing finally stuck.

Don and I arrived at noon, parked in front and came through the open front doors.  The July morning heat had warmed up the un-air-conditioned entry.  We turned to the left, but found no one at the front desk.

It looked like little had changed since 1906.

We looked down the hallway and noticed a few hotel rooms with screen doors. The idea of screen doors inside the hotel made me feel like I had stepped back 5 decades or more. I peered through one screen and saw someone's suitcase resting on the bed and a breeze rustling the curtain.  

It was a treat to feel the air-conditioning as we stepped inside.  Next to the wall we found the source of the smells.  A couple of old stoves were keeping a buffet of comfort foods warm.  Beside the stoves there was a long table that held cold salads and desserts.  We were told to help ourselves and sit anywhere.

Don and I took our overloaded plates to one of the 10 or so community tables.  There were about 6 single men dining when we first sat down and no one spoke. After a bit, one man and then another began to share memories of eating at the hotel when they were children. Until the 1980's you actually went into the kitchen and served yourself.

Don and I took off for a while and returned to check in at 3.   There was still no one in the office.   We finally found Wilhelmina, who said we could call her Mina.  She apologized for not being at the desk, but she and a handful of high school students were making 200 hamburger patties for a fundraiser the next day.  Mina got us the key and told us we could just pay our $35.00 dollars the next day before we left.  Don and I headed up a creaky set of stairs to another pink hall.

The wide upstairs hall was even stuffier than below. But the screen door to the roof top porch let in a little air and light.  

Our funny little room # 27 did have an a.c. window unit, so we were happy. There was a microwave and small fridge and a TV that seemed to have no knobs or remote.  But who needs TV when you've got Blessing to experience? 

Don opted for the shower down the hall.  (It was the door right past the fire hose. ) He returned, saying the shower worked well, but the hook-lock allowed the door to open pretty far, which could have been embarrassing since the shower curtain was clear.  I opted to use the old bathtub in the bathroom attached to our room.  There was another door in our bathroom which connected to another guestroom.  I bathed pretty quickly since I wasn't totally sure the other room was empty.  I do need to mention, the bathroom was spotless. There was even a can of Comet nearby, in case I didn't approve.

Don and I ordered breakfast before checking out.  We sat at our own table, this time.  There was only one other large table in use.  It became obvious that the "breakfast regulars" joined up at that special table, near the kitchen.  Luckily it was pretty peaceful, so I had a chance to chat a good while with Miss Helen who runs the Blessing Restaurant.  She's been coming to the restaurant since she was a child and working at the restaurant since she was a young mother.   I asked if any Pierces still lived in town.  "Sure." She answered.  Mr. Pierce had already been in that morning.

But once we found her, she took time to chat and show us a picture of the hotel ghost she'd captured on her cell phone.  I felt like we'd stepped back in time more than any other hotel I've stayed at.  But what will I remember most?  The food! All that comfort food!

The roadside wood & stucco teepees built in the 1940's are only about 30 minutes from our home.  We've always been curious. About 12 years ago we stopped along what used to be State Highway 60 to take photos of the vine covered sign and teepees, surrounded in weeds.  Not long after, the old "motel" was bought by the Barbara and Byron Woods who had recently won 49 million in a Texas lottery. They renovated and added an RV park. It took Don and me about 10 years to follow through with our joking promise to stay a night in one of the fine pointed structures!

It was an overcast July day when we arrived.  That was helpful since most of the teepees had no shade.  It looked like the teepees had been recently painted and we noticed a few giant arrows decorating the grass here and there.

The 10 orderly teepees came with picnic tables and barbecue grills.  The teepee nearest the road had a blooming Crepe Myrtle, but our #104 was in the center of the lineup.  I was intrigued with the 2-toned, adobe look of the teepees. Don was more curious about the 12-sided (rather than round) structure. 

There was a nice blue theme going on with the quilt, painted furniture and curtain flaps. I kind of loved our Princess Phone since I haven't seen one in a while. The bathroom actually had a hairdryer and coffee maker, which you can be sure wasn't available in the '40's.   The accordion style door to the bathroom had some issues, but I was just pleased there was a bathroom at all.

There was actually some lounging space on the other side, with a desk, fridge, microwave and a futon.  We could have brought along a friend... had we known anyone else in the world who wanted to share our adventure... and sleep on a futon.

We seemed to be the only teepee guests besides a mama cat and her kittens.  But after a while, a man who I will describe as a traveling salesman, parked and entered the teepee next door.  We smiled and greeted but he did not look like he was in the mood for socializing.  The man later had a female guest who did seem in the mood for socializing.  I will say no more.

The man's car appeared to be a vehicle, food shop and home, all rolled into one. The seats and dash were packed to the gills with papers and clothes and coolers.     It could have really added a fun twist to our overnight adventure had we bought a little boudin to enjoy that evening. But we told him we already had dinner plans.  He wished us a good evening and drove on down the highway.

In the morning I took a walk and enjoyed the sunrise over the teepees.

Our road trip of nearly 4 weeks had involved stays in a boarding house, a ship, a trailer, a yacht and a number of historic hotels and motels,  but this was our first overnight in an airport hangar!

To be honest, this was not originally a hangar.  The Quonset hut structure was actually built by Dick Estenson in 1995.  The NASA engineer with a passion for flying and WWII history built the 50-room hotel right on the airport runway.  Pilots and fans of planes can stay in the aeronautical themed rooms and watch the planes come and go from teak deck chairs.

It was quite a jolt to step inside the metal structure where we were greeted by new hotel smells and the sounds of Glenn Miller wafting through the grand lobby.  My eyes first took in the 8 clocks, displaying times from Honolulu to New York. Next, I noticed the spacious rounded desk and old-time switchboard.  Last I noticed the man in a flight crew uniform behind the desk. He was very quiet and somewhat rigid as he checked us in.  I'm guessing he was retired military or an actor, doing a fine job.

I do appreciate a theme, so I loved seeing the vintage suitcases beside the leather chairs and old 1940's radio.  There was a distinct flavor or WWII Pacific from the air-themed artwork to the tropical plants.

All guestrooms were upstairs.  We chose the swooping stairway, but an elevator was available. It was odd (and sort of a relief) to see the retro colors, vintage looking woodwork and light fixtures, without layers of smell and dust... which is what we were getting used to after weeks of historic accommodations.

It was a guilty pleasure to walk into our spacious room and find no cobwebs and stains.  Again, I found the theme a bit fun, even thought I'm neither a big WWII or plane fan.  The cartoonish artwork above the bed didn't fit the somewhat serious décor, but the leather chairs and vintage phone and clock were a nice touch.

I pictured a guy in uniform, kind of like the guy working the desk, making this bed. Good job!  The rattan sleigh bed made me think of the Pacific.  The green army blanket folded at the bottom made me think of barracks.

It's not like we had big plans for the evening.  We'd had a late lunch and didn't really want to drive into Fredericksburg... which is only a couple minutes.  We wanted to take in whatever the Hangar had to offer.  Don happened to have the most appropriate clothing  for enjoying our evening.  His lovely silk shirt with "China Clipper" embroidery actually matched a framed poster in the lobby.  So after donning the airplane shirt. (I'm afraid I didn't have one) we headed to the upper observation deck and watched a few planes. 

We also had a view of the parking lot.  We noticed a few motorcycles arriving. One couple had a dog in tow.  He was wearing sunglasses.  We decided to see where everyone was going.

They seemed to be headed to the doors of the Officer's Club, right between the big grandfather clock and a table holding a large plate of warm chocolate chip cookies.  We headed inside and found the hotel bar just coming to life. There was a large spread of complimentary appetizers and a lovely statue of a glamour gal holding a martini.

People Watching

We sat in some comfy leather chairs beside the fireplace and I took this photo fast before the place filled with bikers, all wearing black leather jackets with "Deadwood Deacons" on the back.  The doors kept opening and everyone who entered seemed to be munching on cookies and greeting others by name.

Then, a whole new group arrived and filled the bar.  We felt even more like we had crashed a private party, because these were local folks who seemed to all know each other.  It was like being at a wedding reception in a small town country club.  Everyone who entered greeted with hugs and waves.  Daniel, the piano player (and plumber by day) arrived to perform.  He did a nice job was also able to answer a few of my questions.

I wanted to be sure we hadn't invaded a private party, since the crowds were literally spilling from the lounge to the patio outside.  I asked Daniel and he assured me the  club was open to all. "It's like this every Thursday night."  It became clear that this was indeed a weekly meet-n-greet happening for this comfortable crowd.  At one point I stepped out to see the sunset. I moved past a few cowboy hats, and a young woman holding a glass of wine in one hand and a small dog in the other.  I excused my way through the group and took a look at the sky, that everyone else seemed to be ignoring.

Don and I enjoyed some complimentary scones and juice near the lobby while we debated over the man in uniform behind the desk.  I thought it was the same man, but Don said he was a new guy. Same uniform.  Same quiet, formality.  

What's Notable?

It was a treat having a newish hotel with a retro gimmick.   Of course I'll remember the planes, but I'll also remember feeling a little invisible during our stay.  It was nice to have Don share the "wall flower at the dance" feel with me!  It was sort of fun to go unnoticed as we watched the mingling locals.  But it was a little odd being somewhat ignored by the uniformed desk clerk (or maybe it was 2 clerks)

We'd been traveling for over 3 weeks and we were up for a little Marfa vibe... which is sort of hard to explain. 

There were numerous rental options spread out over the 18-acre desert camp community.  There were 3 Sioux-style teepees, a hamburger shaped yurt, safari tents, scout tents and 9 vintage trailers.

We headed up to the quite exotic 10-ton door. (Turning the odd knob made me feel like I was cracking a code on a safe) Inside the office building we noticed a few guests absorbed in books and computers in the lounge area. No one looked up. We passed a few tables and shelves of expensive merchandise before waiting in line at the desk.  There was something serious or moody about the atmosphere of the guests and staff.  "Gee, I'm probably being too loud or cheery." I thought, blaming myself and assuming I'd figure it out.

We were given a red wagon to tote our bags, since cars weren't allowed in the camp area. (which is good) The wheels made a horrible clackety sound over the gravel when we passed 2 women lounging in hammocks.  "Sorry." I offered, when eye contact was made. "It's really noisy." I added, then cringed at the sound of my voice.  The women said nothing and turned away.

Our 1951 "Kozy Coach" was awaiting our arrival!  We stepped up the two large slabs of stone onto the little deck and headed to the wonderful old door with its crackly blue paint.

We unloaded our wagon and took in the shiny wooden interior.

Much of the interior was original with aged knobs and hinges. There were a few essential dishes and a drip coffee maker, so no complaints there.

We did actually have a toilet in the trailer.  It had a lever on the floor for flushing and the tiny space felt like the inside of a soup can. Our own private shower was outside the back door.  The metal frame held up the shower head and brown canvas flaps.

Don on the other hand, couldn't really hide at all. He didn't seem too worried, though. And besides, this shower was big compared to the community showers available to tent campers.  Don and I were amused that our showering inspired the romantic neighbors behind us.  Moments later they were enjoying their outdoor shower together.  Oh my.

We felt much better after showering and took a stroll around the place, hoping to see a few others. We've been curious about El Cosmico on other visits to Marfa.  We're intrigued by this small town where rural ranchers and big city artists converge.  We've chatted with people in town, but wondered about the people who might be drawn to a place like this. 

Couples and small groups were beginning to arrive and busy themselves unpacking and pitching tents.  A few gathered at the outdoor community kitchen.  Everyone seemed focused on getting settled, and no one appeared open up to my greetings.  "Should be a beautiful full moon tonight!"  I tried.

Nope. I understood that these youngin's might be cringing to see a middle aged couple in the vicinity. It was like Mom and Dad had surprised them and shown up at the next campsite!  Besides I had better things to do, like put on my pearls and apron and go for a photo op!   Coffee anyone?  Don wasn't up for coffee. He pulled out the bottle of wine we bought at the office. (No outside liquor allowed)

I moved the big, plastic, hand-shaped chair that seemed so out of place by the front door.  I prefer keeping it all '50's vintage. I could have done without the mixture of modern seventies  and hipster chic.  Picky, picky, I know.  Just stating my preference.

Sunset and Full Moon

We headed off to dinner early and got back in time to catch the sunset behind our trailer. A full moon rose over some trees in the east.  It would have been spectacular stargazing, but chilly winds were moving in.  The cool temps probably kept things pretty quiet for a full moon night at El Cosmico.  I have a feeling people were hunkering down.

We turned on the heat in the trailer and there was a cozy hum, along with some great radio tunes.  Marfa may have only about 2,000 residents, but they have an amazing radio station.  We spent much of our evening sitting in the very comfy couch area getting an education on Island Exotica Jazz!  We are now fans of Arthur Lyman and his great '60's music, which includes some crazy jungle sounds!

Arhtur Lyman:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbCp087ktaI

 Morning
We rose early and tiptoed past campers, without use of the noisy wagon. We headed east from Marfa, nearing the end of our 4-week journey.

When we arrived at this retro retreat just outside the old mining town of Bisbee, all was very quiet.  Luckily there was a note with instructions for us, taped to the screened door of the office.

and campground for weary auto travelers on the famous Highway 80.

There was no one at Dot's Diner and no one in the phone booth.  There was no one watching movies on the Astroturf which wasn't a surprise.

We crunched along the gravel pathways, peeking at all 9 vintage trailers. There was a festive 1947 Tiki Bus with Polynesian flare.  I liked the 1957 "Airfloat" with the picket fence.

Our wonderful little get-away awaited us under a shady roof, tucked beside a dense wall of rustling bamboo. "Harbie" the chipmunk captain held a bouquet of flowers and two frowning tiki carvings greeted at the pathway.

Little Friend

When Don opened the doors with green stained glass, the swing music grew louder, coming from a vintage radio.  Nice touch from our mystery hosts.

What a treat! Now only would we be sleeping on a yacht, but the whole interior was saturated with fun props, art and ship memorabilia!  The swooping leopard skin chairs and 1940's "buffet" felt very Hollywood.  Everything else was delightfully nautical from lamps to framed art.

I get so childishly giddy over themed accommodations that I often pack my own costumes.  I didn't need to here. They had a couple of captains hats as well as sailor caps at the ready!

Down a few steps at the center of the boat was the fully equipped galley.  The china had little anchors, the vintage coffee pot was ready to go. There was even a small refrigerator with a complimentary bottle of champagne.

The dining area was cozy with a wonderful map covered table.  There was a nice wooden ship with a clock and yet another little mascot to welcome us aboard. This topless little sea nymph was also keeping guard over her shell collection.

Don is a foot taller than me and could not stand up in our bathroom. But he was at least feeling at home seeing a bottle of Old Spice and even a golden razor!  The porthole looked out at the waving bamboo.  We had no shower, but there was an option for that down at the washhouse.

The weather was perfect and we were eager to settle into the evening on our ship.  First we hiked to the gazebo in search of ice and met a small gathering at the picnic table.  (So we were not alone) They were an odd, but friendly bunch, wearing mostly vintage clothes.  A man wearing a 1940's suit insisted we use some of their ice. We chatted as he reached for the half melted bag of ice.  His eyebrows raised to learn we were in the yacht.  "Did you know it's haunted?" As he poured ice into my container I had to point out to him that the leaky bag was drenching his wingtip shoe.  He was unfazed... and Don and I determined they were all ghosts as we headed back to our boat.

We decided to save champagne for another day and enjoyed some tiki cocktails instead.  We made use of the dock seating first and had a good time chuckling over collections of old cruise brochures.  We read through the captain's log, which was really a guest book and laughed at the write ups from past visitors. These people all seemed like us... having a silly old time.

 Next we moved to the open area at the rear of the boat. There was a nice rolling cocktail cart and a padded bench.   We flipped through quite the collection of albums, all island themed... from Don Ho to Harry Belafonte's Calypso.

Don put "Hawaii Calls" on the turntable and we tried out a few dance moves.  Our dance skills are pretty lame, so we're lucky we didn't break a lamp or any limbs. After a few amusing minutes we turned to more low key activities.

We were determined to make use of every space and every goody that these fine owners had enthusiastically collected.  I can't believe we didn't get to meet them. I love the passion they have for this place. And I love that they trusted us to enjoy without destroying them!

There was so much to enjoy from the old radio to the Sunken Treasure game. The reading material was pretty tempting. If we'd had a couple days I could have read "A Girl in Every Port" or "Sails and Whales".

Our light dinner of bread, fruit and cheese, on our anchor plates... on the map table, was perfect!  We played a game or 2 and headed off to bed with a balmy breeze blowing through the portholes.

Luckily we had no ghost happenings in the night.  It was a little eerie, I'll admit.  It was the night before the full moon and the winds picked up, rustling the bamboo dramatically. And the creepy thing I didn't mention earlier, is that on the other side of the bamboo, just steps away from our boat, was an old cemetery.  Now if that wasn't the perfect set-up for a ghost encounter, I don't know what would be.

This great, red and green wooden structure was built in 1895 as a boarding house for the local miners.  It remained a boarding house into the 1940's. The lower level, with office and gift shop, was then a dirt crawl space. The 2 levels above housed miners who may have relaxed on the porches on summer evenings long ago.  It was actually a soldier, not a miner who years ago sat on that veranda cleaning his gun when it accidently went off. It killed a woman walking on the street below and some guests claim to have seen her ghost.  If you look carefully to your left, you might see the ghost image of the man with his rifle. But if you look even closer...it's actually a young man and his guitar.

Arriving

I grinned as we crossed the bridge, over a dry creek bed towards the battered red door.  You could tell this place was going to be fun when the large rusty bells clanked and announced our arrival.  If we'd gone left, we could have stepped into sort of a sun room that had coffee and sometimes  breakfast treats. (It doesn't claim to be a B&B) But we turned right into the office, which had a cave-like feel. Not because it was once a dirty crawl space under the building, but because you could feel the odd, cool air coming from the Apache Springs Well that was right behind Cheryl.

Our room, #21 was on the first level overlooking the street. There were Adirondack chairs and a porch swing, with a view of Castel Rock.  Owner, Chris has kept quite a bit of the quirky décor from when he bought the place 5 years ago. "It had been pretty much a party house since it was inherited." The owners who bought in the 1980's had decorated the rooms with some pretty unique collections in of art and doodads.  Chris warned with a chuckle, "I don't take any responsibility for any of the quirky décor in the rooms." He said the reputation of the place was built on the crazy stuff.

Last Chance was the name of our room. It was quite a doozie with the Asian theme!  We opened the screened door first, then the deluxe pink and white door... with complicated drapes.

I'll always remember the kookiness of this quiet little place across from Castle Rock. It's really like no other historic hotel I've visited.  If we'd had more time, I would have used the veranda more, or explored the gardens behind the hotel. It was very peaceful for us, but I imagine on a weekend we could have met up with some unique travelers at a place like this! We'll have to return.