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"The Grey House" Last October, Don and I and spent one night in a fabulous old house, just a few minutes from downtown Dubuque, Iowa.  The house named the Grey House, looked more brown to me. But the colors that really caught my eye, were all the yellows, greens, oranges and pinks, surrounding the home! Four Mounds The house is located within the 60-acre, Four Mounds Estate. Named for 4 conical burial mounds, located on the property.
When we arrived in mid October, the trees along the drive were just beginning to turn. The Burden's Home What a home! The grand house was constructed in 1908, by George and Viola Burden for their family. Their grand Craftsman style mansion was built, high on a bluff, with an unobstructed view of the Mississippi River. Picture no trees and bushes.  Today the impressive home is a Bed & Breakfast, with 7 guest rooms and lush grounds, plus the river view. It isn't the only overnight option at Four Mounds. There is another house, far across the lawn. The White House The White House was built in 1924, when the Burden's son married.  Bill and his wife Elizabeth raised three daughters in the Colonial Revival style home. Elizabeth remained there until 1982, when she died and left the entire estate to the city of Dubuque. Good Choice The two house styles were so different. When we pulled up to the entrance, I was delighted that we'd chosen the Grey House for our stay. There was something intriguing and mysterious about the house,  I wonder what kind of car the Burdens owned in 1925, when they pulled up to their new home. A Lincoln Model L Convertible Coupe? 1962 The Burdens only occupied the Great House until 1962. It's actually easier for me to picture the kind of car Mrs. Burden would have owned in the 1960's. Her chauffeur would have driven, right up to the Porte Couchere and seen her inside. Then he would have taken the car to the Chauffeur's House, which is still on the property.  The chauffeur probably didn't drive a blue Ford station wagon. That's what my family of 6 would have arrived in, if we'd been invited for a visit in 1962. It wouldn't have been too long of a drive from Grinnell. We could have brought our boxer and our cats to cheer Mrs. Burden, during her final year in the house. Oh my mind does wander when I see old houses! Arriving As Don and I unloaded, a fellow guest greeted us and offered to help carry bags. It suddenly felt more like a home than a hotel.
Rod was very chatty and eager to tell us all the highlights of the property. He followed us in, past the coat rack and umbrella holder and up a couple stairs.  I paused for a moment in the entry room. My eyes went straight to the window.  I took in the setting. Green grass, colorful trees and the Mississippi River... bird feeders, bird bath, hammock stand... heaven! The Kitchen Rod took me into the kitchen to meet our host, Dee. She was cutting up some veggies that would be served at breakfast the next day.  As she dried off her hands I looked at the beautiful cabinets filled with white dishes. (used at the events, held at Four Mounds) I was carrying a bag with our dinner for the evening. Dee offered to put it in the fridge. The Gathering Area Before Dee guided us upstairs to our room, I paused to peek at the comfy living room area.  The Craftsmen furniture matched the simple and practical style of the house. I read that Mr. Burden wanted to hire Frank Lloyd Wright to design the home, but Mrs. Burden said no. She didn't want to be restricted by Wright's rules of design. Architect Lawrence Buck was more flexible. Sunroom The living area led to a lovely sunroom, with large arched windows and plants.  I doubt the Burdens played cornhole in the 1920's! But, they might have looked out a telescope.  The brick floor probably kept the space nice and cool in the summer. In October, the room was getting chilly in the late afternoon. I pictured flickering logs in the fireplace. From the Outside When we first arrived, I noticed the windows with flower boxes, on the second story.  I didn't realize those upper windows belonged to the room we booked. Our suite was directly above the living room AND sunroom! A lot of space! The Landing The entrance to our spacious room faced the stairs and halls, which led to other guest rooms.  The landing area had a cushioned window seat, with another glorious view of river! Before Dee opened our door, we were suddenly greeted by 3 couples who were heading for the stairs.  What an enthused bunch! We all introduced ourselves and chatted about where we were from. Our inn seemed to attract interesting guests. Magestic River Suite Our sprawling suite did not disappoint. Weeks earlier, Don and I did some odd re-routing of our Iowa road trip, to land ourselves a night at Four Mounds, when the Magestic River Suite was available. The door knocker could have been creepy to some... but we were amused!
The old door opened to a hallway, with 2 windows and a closet. The windows on the left, looked out over the Mississippi!
We opened all the Venetian blinds! This was definitely the grandest of the 7 guest rooms.  Just like the living room below, our guest room had a fireplace and doors leading to a sunroom. The Sunroom My family's Iowa house didn't have air conditioning or a sleeping porch, but we did have a braided rug like this one, in our family room.  If only the weather had been a bit warmer, we could have opened every window and slept on the extra bed. I'm sure the Burdens used this room like a sleeping porch, on hot summer nights... long before air-conditioning. Furniture I loved all the rustic furniture!  Many of the National park lodges have "Old Hickory" furniture like this. Chairs I've always had a thing for curious chairs! The woven rocker was unusual and sort of comfy.
The very tall Stickley chair was less comfy, but just as intriguing. Chilly The spacious bedroom would have been glorious on a summer evening, with a breeze blowing through windows, on both sides of the bed.  But temperatures were dropping. We forgot to ask Dee before she went off duty, about the heat. Luckily we found a space heater that warmed things up. Surprises in the Bathroom There were only good surprises in the bathroom. I made use of one of the cozy robes hanging on the bathroom door. I made use of the triangular shelf, below the curious angled window! I wonder if that was designed to let in more light.
That clever window was interesting from the inside and the outside! Original! The sink and old medicine cabinet fit like a puzzle, into a funny corner! I loved the original hardware and built-in toothbrush and soap holders.   The subway tile looked pretty darn good, for being nearly a century old. It took a little figuring to get the water coming out of the shower head! Evening I wanted to stop the clock! There wasn't time to sit and read in the sunroom, for more than a minute. We only had one evening.  We saved books for later and got out to explore the grounds, while there was light! The Property We were only able to explore a small portion of the property.  There was quite a lawn between the two houses! I imagine there were some entertaining croquet games, back in the day. Landscape The landscape around the lawn was varied and intriguing.  In photos from 1925, there was very little in the way of trees and flowers. The Burdens worked hard to create the nature that we get to enjoy today. Trees & Leaves As we stopped to look at the fall colors, I was reminded of the huge maple trees near my childhood home in Iowa. I remember collecting leaves as a kid, then ironing my treasures between pieces of waxed paper! Do people do that anymore?
Don and I don't get to see colors like this in Houston! Gentleman's Farm After the Burden's built their home, they created a Gentleman's Farm on the property. (Think farming for pleasure, not profit.) There are 17 buildings on the property today, but we only saw a few. We saw the children's playhouse, a screened house, a pump house, a fun swing-seat and a garden, with squash and tomatoes and flowers. Chairs for Viewing And then there was this wonderful line up of Adirondack chairs, just waiting for us.  After all the socializing when we arrived, we expected to share these chairs!  But Don made drinks and we had the green chairs and river view to ourselves.  We watched the light change as the sun broke through the clouds. We saw a flock of geese startle and fly off at once. What a show! House to Ourselves When weather got too chilly for us, we moved to the living room and expected to see other guests.  But they'd all gone into town for dinner. We had the place to ourselves. I should have taken advantage and played the piano in the corner! Dinner is Served After a bit, we grabbed our deli dinner from the fridge and headed upstairs to our sitting area, near our own fireplace. Very similar to what was right below us.  I wish the fireplace had been a working one! But our space heater did a nice job warming up our room. Morning Before heading to bed we decided to keep the blinds up in the sunroom. Didn't want to sleep too long and miss the view!  I woke before 6 and dashed to the chilly room-of-windows to check out the view!  The sun wasn't quite up. I grabbed a blanket and cozied up for a while, on the "Old Hickory" with ottoman. Breakfast! We headed down for breakfast at 9.  Dee had a nice spread of food waiting, near the bottom of the stairs.  Eggs, bacon, toast and grilled veggies. Probably from the garden! Chatting By the Fire Don and I joined 2 other couples at a table near the toasty fireplace! My photo doesn't capture the fire, or the happy gabbing of our group of 6. Instead, it looks just like what B&B Haters complain about... awkward table sharing.  It was a tasty and social meal. It's always fun to swap stories, with others who love travel adventures. There was talk about train travel and river cruises and shared tips about discoveries we'd all made while exploring nearby Dubuque! Out by 11 It was hard to pack up and leave, seeing the blue skies.  Don and I did a rare selfie, to remember our stay!  I raced out to get one more photo, with a totally blue sky.  I sighed to think we couldn't linger another day and enjoy lunch or a good book on the patio.  I looked up one more time at our suite windows, right above the patio. I chuckled as I recalled a guest reminding us at breakfast, that the patio gets a lot of use in the summer. Evidently sleeping in the sunroom with open windows, can get noisy on warm nights. Maybe I'd be okay with that. It would remind me of being a kid in bed, drifting off to sleep with sounds of my parents' party downstairs! Our stay seemed to make me nostalgic for my Iowa childhood! What's Notable We spent a night in a grand home, that sits high on a bluff above the Mississippi River. We had window views looking out in 3 directions, over property that had been a Gentleman's Farm. (a term I didn't even know until recently)  The building itself was beautifully kept, with tasteful furniture and decor that fit perfectly. And I LOVED our suite! Charming, cozy, spacious, comfy and peaceful... on a weeknight in October!
I would definitely like to stay again!
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Coolness in Iowa City This is where we stayed in October 2023, on our Iowa road trip!  The Hotel is still named The Highlander, but the sign from the 1960's is gone! "Urban Resort" The 2023 version of The Highlander looks a little different.
The hotel calls itself an Urban Resort now. "Where modern elegance meets timeless charm". The 2-story motel on 90 acres, didn't exactly look urban or elegant, from the highway. Grand Entrance Walking up from the massive parking lot, I was a little amused by this dated entrance.  I knew the hotel had been renovated in 2020-2022, but I wasn't too impressed yet... Elegant! Suddenly I stepped inside and the word elegant fit much better.  I loved the glam-modern, velvet chairs and dramatic light fixtures. And what a fabulous flower arrangement! Chic Boutique The mod art in the Lobby check-in area, took me back to the sixties.  But the casual "greeting tables" with computers, reminded me that it was 2023. Lamps and LPs I spotted a couple of lava lamps...
And there were boxes with collections of old records!  The albums weren't just for show. There was a little turntable between the blue chairs. I could have played some tunes, while I waited for someone to arrive and check us in. Halls The hallways were impressive! The wall decor was splashy and bright.
The floors were worth a look! All clean and bright and varied. Peace! We were given "wristband keys" that magically opened our door. Just a tap with the plastic rectangle (showing a hand making a peace sign) Voila! Door open! The host said we didn't really need to wear the bands around the hotel, but maybe that was because we looked like old fogies and not wild party people! I think it might get rowdy at this cool place, on weekends.
I loved the wooden peace sign that dangled on the door, instead of a Do Not Disturb card. I wonder how many of those disappear, when younger and wilder guests stay? Room 113 The poolside rooms were more expensive, so we went for a room opening to the courtyard.  Our room location was perfect, with glass doors opening to our own corner patio.  Our own little sitting looked out over the yard. The huge glass doors to the pool, were just to the left. I stepped out in the late afternoon and had the whole area to myself.  As I wandered, I made my daily call to my Dad. I told him about the curious hotel and I chuckled with him as I moved chess pieces around the big board. "I don't remember when I last played chess!"I told him. We talked about chess and we talked about Iowa. The year The Highlander opened, our family was living 2 hours away in Grinnell. Mod Seating Back in the room, I was happy to have a little sitting area. I'm not sure what this room looked like in 2019, before Angela Harrington bought the dated hotel and invested nearly 10 million to renovate.  I'm glad she chose to spotlight the mid century modern era. There were a few hints of the 21st century. The recycling trash can!  The black refrigerator and sleek paper towel dispenser were nice updates. The inlaid desk top and TV weren't so bad either.  No complaints with the bathroom. Vintage black "Chicklet" tiles, beach-y subway tile and a gigantic shower head! I guess I could gripe about the frosted glass in the door... that let light into the room, when I showered early. Wandering On a Tuesday in October, we didn't bump into any guests when we went exploring.  The swanky bar closest to the lobby, wasn't open that evening. Too bad, because I was eager to have a seat on one of those comfy blue stools, next to the puffy-padded wall! So retro clubby! Expressing Ourselves We found some even comfier seating. The rounded pink couch looked heavenly.
But we didn't have time to sit. We had work to do.  I couldn't photograph Don's fine artwork, because he put it was too high. It's pretty obvious who used the neon yellow pen on the right side of the board! Peace Again Long before I was a teen, I remember saying "Peace!" with 2 fingers. I mimicked the hippies and protesters I saw in the news, long before I knew what it meant.  I was much older than a teenager when I realized my own parents might have mimicked Winston Churchill, making a V for Victory, during WWII! We Need Friends! We wandered through more sitting areas, admiring all the framed album covers on the wall.  There was James Taylor looking down from the wall. I probably never listened to him until the 1970's. But I do remember Joan Baez from the sixties. She was evidently a guest at this very hotel, many decades ago. Why?  It was fun wandering and reminiscing. It made me wish we were joined by our siblings, or friends of similar age. We could have lounged on the sleek couches with beer and pretzels and talked about the sixties. Well that's what my parents were enjoying in the '60's. Kool-Aid and pretzels for me. Suppertime I've said before I love the retro idea of a Supper Club. And that's how this whole place began. The Highlander Inn actually opened as a Supper Club in 1967.. or 1964. I found both dates when researching.  Highlander Inn Supper Club went through nearly 6 decades of makeovers. After the recent 3-year renovation, the popular Supper Club returned, along with a "Retro Cocktail Arcade". Sunken Bar Previous owners over the years, hid some of the fun stuff. A lot of carpet and concrete had to be removed during renovation.  The limestone wall that separated the sunken bar and restaurant had to be recreated one lime brick at a time. What a cool 2-sided bar. I failed to capture the levels in this photo. Arcade? I kind of wish they had chosen to lean more towards Supper Club than Arcade. But if that's what it takes to lure young guests to keep an historic hotel open, I'm okay with that!  I'm guessing the pool tables and arcade games are sitting where dining tables once stood. I do recognize the hanging light fixtures from the earliest photos. More Music Don was happy to study every album cover.  He definitely owned more albums in the '60's and '70's than I did.  I recognized plenty though. I was happy to spot a Herman's Hermits album. For my 10th birthday, I was allowed to take a few friends to Des Moines to see their movie! One of those friends lives in Iowa City now. Joanna said her family has enjoyed a Staycation or two at The Highlander! Imagining We pretty much had the place to ourselves. I tried to imagine all these tables and games in use, by U of Iowa students on weekends.  I imagined the decor in the early 70's, when these splendid chandeliers shined down on fancy tables... and my friend Marla had her Homecoming Dinner here! Convincing Don Don wasn't thrilled about losing money in arcade games. He was amused enough by the totally free (and silly) video, on the Guitar Hero screen.
I insisted we embrace what the Supper Club has become. I purchased tokens and got a very silly fortune from Zoltar. Pinball Madness I know nothing about arcade games, but least I felt confident with old pinball machines. Maybe not. I kept losing tokens which made me sort of lose my mind.  The nice guy working behind the sunken bar assured me that some of the machines were funky. It wasn't me. He gave me a pile of tokens and by the time I was sort of having fun, they were gone. Oh well. Food We ordered some food at the bar and suddenly wished there were more people to watch. I could have guided people. "The Munsters pinball works!"  The pork sandwich was actually pretty tasty and came with chips and chunky pico de gallo. Not bad! Snack Shack Another quiet food place, was located near the indoor pool. We could help ourselves to complimentary sodas and coffee. The bartender dashed in here a couple times to make milkshakes I believe.  We mostly just stopped in to enjoy some 1960's trivia, on the wall. Top 10 Tunes of 1967 I was 10 in 1967, so I have fun memories of every single one of these 10 songs!  However I can't believe "The Letter" was more popular than "Georgie Girl", "All You Need is Love" or "Up, Up and Away"! My opinion of course. Comp Breakfast This Snack Shack area also served complimentary breakfast the next day.  The warmer held breakfast sandwiches wrapped in foil. We were content with yogurt and oatmeal. We wondered again, what this would be like on a weekend. There seemed to be a lot of unlocked liquor bottles... Pool Area! The Highlander Supper Club added the hotel and pool area in the early 1970's.  This is the view of the indoor pool, with the Snack Shack on the left.  When this indoor beauty opened in 1974, I'm sure it was an impressive oasis. You could book a super groovy room overlooking the pool! Today's Look Before renovations, I'm guessing this would be the last view I'd want to have from my motel balcony. Chlorine smells and sounds of splashing and "Marco Polo-ing".  But the space was lovely! Comfy sitting areas with no mildew smells. The "garage doors" let in lots of light.  The hot tub looked so inviting and we had suits with us! But it was closed for maintenance. Rats. Cheers to But we made use of the chill atmosphere and ordered drinks from the bar for a poolside toast.  Cheers to unbreakable glasses that don't look like plastic! Cheers to our innocent pre-teen years in the 1960's. What fun to remember those days! What's Notable? The Highlander Hotel was hipper and bolder and classier than I expected!  Without crowds, we got to enjoy drinks by the pool and silly games at the Supper Club. We enjoyed wandering and taking in all the nostalgia of the sixties and seventies. We enjoyed our peaceful, comfy room. I'd love to go back on a weekend when all 90 rooms are booked and just see what it's like! Maybe...
Another Old One, in Iowa This is about the 9th historic Iowa hotel that Don and I have enjoyed in the past decade.  Hotel Winneshiek opened in 1905, but the history of lodging on this piece of land, goes back to the mid 1800's. Pretty Town and Hotel Don and I discovered the U-shaped hotel when we drove through the town of Decorah, about 9 years ago.   We were impressed with the quaint, downtown buildings and noticed the tidy, 3-story hotel. We parked and stepped inside. After peeking around, we put it on our list and 9 years later, we booked. October 2023 It was a sunny day when we arrived last fall.  As we headed towards the entrance, I was entertained by all that was going on, around that door. Ionic columns! Stone ornamental shield! Fancy pediment above the door! All part of the Beaux-Arts building design. Beaux-Arts Design I'm pretty the Beaux-Arts style involves symmetry and this 2 part building was perfectly balanced. This photos shows the building section to the left of the entrance.  The matched sides appealed to my child self. As a kid, I liked things even! I was about 8, when my older brother tried to explain the beauty of asymmetric design. I told him he didn't know what he was talking about! 1877 Before the current building was constructed, Winneshiek House took in guests. The building style looks quite different. The Seyer Opera House (on the left) still looks much the same today.  The description from the Historical Society is pretty informative... and confusing. Two-over-two windows? I need to learn! Entrance Before reaching the lobby, we passed through a one-story vestibule.  The terrazzo floors and cherry woodwork greeted us. All original. I'm not sure if the stained glass is original. As with many historic hotels, The Winneshiek had some dark years, following the prosperous ones. Did the stained glass survive?
To the left of the door, I spotted 2 photos, with famous visitors. The hotel was freshly refurbished when Barrack Obama visited during his first run for office. The Crown Prince and Princess of Norway were big visitors, in 1939. Octagonal Rotunda When we stepped into the 3-story lobby, I looked straight up. The open space and stained glass ceiling, created a grand-looking atrium.  I'm not a math person, but I've always liked puzzling over geometry. There were a lot of shapes to ponder in the the wood and glass. It's hard to believe this octagonal rotunda was completely covered up, in a big 1930's remodeling. Best View This wonderful view from the third floor was completely lost after the odd structural changes, 8+ decades ago!  There was no one to spy on from above. But I enjoyed studying the seating arrangement in the center of the lobby. Pondering the Floor The circular mosaic design in the middle of the terrazzo floor must have made furniture arranging a little tricky, over the years.  There were 4 chairs facing the circle. Perfect for admiring the "H W" mosaic design in the center. It's possible that this floor was covered in carpet, back in the 1970's, when the hotel was turned into an apartment building. Luckily, The Winn (as people in the know call it) was rescued in 1998. The interior (with all its funky apartment renovations) had to be demolished, then reconstructed. Couch View The comfiest seating option was the couch, facing the marble fireplace, with its decorated mantle.  I doubt those chairs were there in 1939, but I could picture the Crown Prince and Princess, sitting properly in both oddly tall things. Hall of Mirrors Between the front desk and the fireplace, there was a hallway leading to a rear entrance.  I wanted to ask the guy who checked us in, what the story was with all those mirrors. But the guy (that I nicknamed Mr. Bland) was not open to much chit chat. He seemed as formal as the most ornate mirror, in the display. He had a "check-in spiel" that didn't allow for questions. I was told "I will get to that." when I asked questions that he planned on answering later. Grand Staircase Across from the Mr. Bland's counter, was a grand stairway, with curling banisters. The kid in me wondered about the short (but challenging) ride I could have taken down one of those. I can picture Mr. B's reaction!  The railings swooped open dramatically, as if welcoming us to wander up to the painted garden! There could have been an interesting story about that painted well. I didn't ask. Steyer Opera House A little later I wandered in search of the Opera House. I knew the hotel had an entrance to the elegant 1870 theatre. It was renovated along with the hotel and is now used as an event space.  I only found this decorated wall and some locked doors. I gathered my confidence and asked Mr. Bland if it might be possible to have a peek at the Opera House. (I'd read guest reviews, raving about the theatre) He assured me that wasn't possible. Oh well. Second Floor Our room was located off a little hallway, on the second floor.  It was very quiet. The only people we saw were the ones in the framed art. A Puzzling Space A trio of doors faced the little hallway near our room. I looked at the shape of the ceiling and carpet and tried to imagine how hard it was puzzling together all these room spaces, within this oddly shaped hotel building.
When we opened our door, we were met with an even longer hall. We passed a bathroom and closet area, to get to our room. Nice Bath The grand reopening of the hotel was nearly 25 years ago, so I was nicely surprised with the fresh and spacious bathroom. The geometric tile pleased me. And yay for a tub and even a make-up mirror.
I don't usually add a toilet photo, but this toilet practically had its own room and window. Frosted glass behind the lace! Corner Room! I'm always delighted with a corner room.  Like the bathroom, this felt spacious for an old hotel. Oddly Formal In a matter of moments Don and I were chuckling at the room details. Decorating isn't actually my thing and I'm usually very forgiving with old hotels. But the formality of the drapes and lace and gold frames, seemed oddly accented with oak furniture, that you might find at IKEA.
The window drapes did actually fit the proper style of the hotel. But the views behind the lace weren't so elegant. A brick wall and a parking lot. We should have asked Mr. B for a room in the front of the building. And The Bed Once again, I found myself perplexed by the mix of styles. It seemed like the hotel had worked hard to be accurate with renovations. But our Mission-style headboard just did not fit.  And the fit of the "comforter" was even worse. It was about the weight of a tissue and it barely covered the top. I kept looking at the texture and being reminded of when I was a bored child and crumbled a piece of notebook paper about 3,000 times, until the lines rubbed away and the paper was as soft as a Kleenex. The bed-topper was indeed soft, but the exposed metal frame was not. Don came close to a bloody injury, so he wrapped the frame's leg with a towel.  Don was also concerned about the already cold room. He was pretty sure the "Kleenex" wasn't going to provide us with enough warmth. There were no blankets in the closet.  I called Mr. B at the desk and he had a blanket sent up. It was more of a large beach towel, but it did add a bit of warmth. Hotel Winn Bar I promise we didn't really fret for hours over our bed. We spread the golden blanket and headed off for the hotel's bar/restaurant. Actually more bar than restaurant.   I took photos before The Winn Bar opened, at 5. It was really a very nice and comfortable set up. At the Bar It was after 6, when Don and I took a seat at the bar. That was a good plan since the lone bartender was working the bar, tables and kitchen himself. It was a pleasant treat to look across the bar and see artwork, instead of a TV.
Our bartender Jeremy couldn't have been nicer. He bustled around, but slowed down now and then to chat with us. We had some interesting conversations about Jeremy's work with the Coastguard, while we nibbled on toasted ravioli, with pesto sauce. Lobby Lounging And after we finished, there was an inviting fire in the lobby. I checked out one of the tall, velvet chairs! I felt like Goldilocks! "This chair is toooo tall."   It was nice to have the lobby to ourselves. Mr. B wasn't lurking anymore and we were growing fond of our curious hotel. I was surprised that we saw no other guests while we lounged. Morning We slept well under our peculiar covers. I slipped outside before 7 the next morning.  The street was quiet and the Old Winn looked pretty lovely, in the pre-dawn light. Chilly Walk One of the best parts of staying at The Winnehiek, was the location. It was 35 degrees that morning, but I couldn't go inside and miss out on seeing the town wake up.  I kept wandering and spotting lovely buildings, along with the changing sky. Don and I ended up skipping the complimentary breakfast at The Winn and had bagels across the street. Then we were off to explore a little more of the charming town. What's Notable I will mostly remember our stay at Hotel Winneshiek for the building itself and the nice downtown location. I love Decorah and I love that this hotel was rescued and renovated.  Comfortable bar... friendly bartender. Octagonal rotunda and amusing bed. Mostly I'll remember the pretty exterior on the lovely street... and beautiful weather for exploring!
Dubuque's Grandest This fall, Don and I stayed in the grandest hotel of Dubuque, Iowa! Well, the tallest and oldest maybe.  The 8-story, 133 room hotel on Main Street, is indeed impressive today. Long Ago The history of Hotel Julien, began as Waples House Hotel, in 1839... or 1844? (I've read both) The impressive building was Dubuque's first lodge.
The Waples House was enlarged, refurbished and renamed Julien House, in 1854. (Why'd they remove all the fun stuff?) In 1913, a massive fire destroyed most of the hotel, but it was rebuilt. Julien Dubuque? It wasn't until we arrived at our hotel that I allowed myself to even wonder about the name Julien. Or the name Dubuque for that matter.  Julien Dubuque was actually a person. Most Iowans probably know that. But I had to wander around to the rear entrance of the hotel to learn a little history.  The sculpture near the back door, gave me a little hint. The plaque above the mighty, shirtless hero, told me that Julien Dubuque was the "Adventurer and FOUNDER" of Dubuque!  We found more images of the the rugged fellow around town! Is that an earring? He looks like Tom Selleck. Afternoon Arrival It was a pretty fall afternoon when we arrived in Dubuque. We parked in a free lot and crossed Main Street, to the brick and stone building,  The exterior still looked neat and tidy, after a major renovation from 2007-2009.  There were 3 enormous windows. From inside, the lower half offered views from the lobby. You could gaze our the upper half, from the mezzanine. Lobby The lobby was nicely redone with a circular settee in the center, holding a generous display of flowers.  I wonder how the lobby looked when Al Capone once owned the hotel. Or is that true? I read that he owned the hotel for a short time, when he liked to escape to Dubuque from Chicago. Really? Closed Rats, the Riverboat Lounge was closed on Sunday. I couldn't even peek in through the dark glass.  Since I knew the Mississippi River was just a couple blocks away, I pictured the lounge playing up the Riverboat Theme, quite well! Letters & Lincoln It was fun spotting little bits from the past. There was a grand old mailbox, near the elevator. Wish I'd had a letter to send.
There was nice display in the front of the lobby with old photos and news clips. Supposedly Abe paid a visit to the hotel, long before he was president. Long before his beard. Where to Hang Out? Don and I are always in search of the best spot to hang out. I knew it wasn't going to be the fancy settee in the lobby, There was a nice area around the fireplace.
And there was another cozy spot behind the stairs. We seemed to have the hotel to ourselves. Heading Up We headed up to explore more. The elegant stairway made a dramatic split... where you could pause and ponder which direction to go, while checking your hairdo in the mirror.  The giant mirror was actually salvaged from the Ziegfeld Theatre in NYC. Supposedly many performers from Will Rogers to W.C. Fields, checked their costumes in this mirror before hitting the stage. Mezzanine I do appreciate a 2-story lobby, where you can sit below and study activity above.  Best of all, I love wandering the mezzanine level and enjoying every angle of the lobby below.  If there had been just a little lobby activity, it would have been more entertaining. I could have spied on the arriving travelers, without them noticing. The Ballroom There wasn't any activity in the Ballroom either.  If I'd been 6-year-old Eloise who lived at The Plaza Hotel (in my favorite childhood book) I would have made use of all the open space. Actually Don and I have been known to sneak in a quick dance step, in empty ballrooms... Hanging Out on the Second Floor We were disappointed that we couldn't make use of the Riverboat Lounge during our stay. So we turned to the empty Mezzanine and let it be our own private lounge.  The railings made us feel like we were on the upper deck of a riverboat. And the rounded windows, gave us a view!  We made drinks in our room and brought them to the comfy chairs and had a lovely time.  It was fun to see the upper portion of those grand windows, that I'd admired from outside.  We didn't get to view the Mississippi, since it was behind the hotel. But it was fun looking out at the old buildings. A few had curious murals. Caroline's The doors to the hotel's restaurant reminded me of a fancy supper club, in the 1960's.  It was 1962 when the hotel changed hands and became the modern "Julien Motor Inn". The term motor inn clearly was attempting to attract more car travelers. My family's Ford Galaxy would have been welcomed nicely in 1962! Stained Glass and Plates I took a peek behind those diamond doors and found a rather grand dining table with some curious features. The stained glass on the right, looked noteworthy.  Was that an air vent on the left lower wall? Such curious swirls of metal. I of course loved the illuminated display of plates!  Plate displays can be for sort of cheesy, but these were old china plates from famous hotels. I adore vintage hotel china and I recognized a few hotels that are on the Notable Night blog! Time to Eat After wandering a bit (and finding more china displays) and peeking at the menu, we were sold.  The large dining room only had a few guests, but the wait staff made the atmosphere warm and welcoming.  My Cobb Salad was insane! Insanely good! And look at the metal work behind me. Does that match the vent in the special dining room?  Don's Pretzel Crusted Chicken with taters and asparagus was delish. We were pleasantly surprised. Lack of diners was not a reflection of the chef! 8th Floor Room We had asked for an upper room, in hopes of a decent view. We were happy for an elevator to help get our bags to the 8th floor.  Once again we were glad to have at least one comfy chair, for our one traveler with a bad back!  There was plenty of space and I was pleased to see real coffee mugs and real wine glasses! We've seen so many disposables, since the pandemic. The bathroom was decent enough, but once again, the frosted glass door to leading to the bathroom annoyed me. I often rise much earlier. Poor Don had to put up with a glowing guest room, when I showered at 6.  But the space was decent enough. Who knows how guests dealt with bathing and toilet issues when this was Waples House! Window!! Our room faced Main Street, so no view of the Mississippi. But I totally enjoyed gazing out our window, at anytime of day!  At 7:30 am, I loved seeing the morning light, glowing on the distant bluffs.  At 11 am, I could watch a little more activity on the sidewalk, along Main Street. Or check the flower boxes and rooftops!  Best of all I could zoom in, like Jimmy Stewart in Rear Window. I spotted no murders, but I did zoom in and notice that some workmen were preparing to work on a steeple.
And after a long morning of walking, I was able to recognize the places we explored. I could spot the white building at the top of the fabulous railway, that took us up to the high bluff... with the best view of Dubuque! Exploring Dubuque We were happy that check out was at noon. That gave us a full morning to explore historic old Dubuque, before loading the car. We had done zero research before our arrival. No expectations! So our morning of wandering, totally thrilled us with one surprise after another! What's Notable? There was nothing over the top memorable about the historic building or our room itself. But I will always remember our "private" mezzanine and our relaxed and tasty dinner. I'll remember our view that delighted me, even if it included a parking lot and roof solar panels.  Mostly my memories will be about the connection of the hotel with the historic city. It may not be a huge tourist destination, but there was lots to see. So many curious old buildings in such a small area, between the bluffs and river! Comfy hotel, easy parking and fun wandering!
The Willows In October, we spent 2 notable nights in a Chicago hotel, that had a rather welcoming name.
At least it seemed welcoming to me! The Willow is my favorite tree. I love their sweeping branches! The word willow just sounds comforting. It rhymes with pillow after all! Our Hotel on Surf Street I was pleased when we turned down tree lined, Surf Street and spotted our French Provincial style hotel. But I didn't notice any willows. Now when I look at my photo, I wonder. Could that be some form of a willow branch, hanging in the foreground?  I never learned how the hotel got its Willows name. The first name Hotel Surfridge, makes more sense. In 1924, the hotel was built on a long narrow lot, in Chicago's Lakeview Neighborhood... on Surf Street! Why Chicago? Our reason for finding a hotel in Chicago, had to do with a wedding! That's always a good reason for a trip. Our daughter flew in from Austin, to attend the wedding with us.  I was hoping to put us up in the city, at the iconic Drake Hotel, or the modern-glam Swissotel, overlooking Navy Pier. But rates were sky high that weekend. We couldn't afford 500-dollar rooms! Decent Price When I came across The Willows on the internet, the photos looked charming. Ornate exterior, black awnings, pretty plants.
Reviews about the boutique hotel, were positive. It was located far from most tourist sites, but just blocks from Lincoln Park and the zoo. Rainy Arrival The price was still high... for us at least. ($325. a night) But we snagged a room with 2 queens. Heidi was more than happy to just bunk up with good ole Mom & Dad. We 3 arrived on a rainy Friday afternoon.
It was nice having the awning to unload bags, on that drizzly day. We opened the door and greeted the little statue, as we wiped our feet. Formal-Comfy From the entry we stepped down into the lobby. The ionic columns felt formal. A very polite gentleman behind the curved desk, also seemed a bit formal.  But he warmed up and was pleasantly chatty. The lobby furniture appeared to be comfortable!  There were 3 small areas of seating, in the cozy lobby. Formal - Whimsical The seating around the fireplace was set up rather properly, but the comfy leather chairs were a treat. (we weren't in the mood for rigid Victorian)  There was a traditional European old world feel to the space, until you took a good look at the walls. Whacky Animal Theme Yep, every framed photo featured an animal or two. Abe Lincoln with a baby leopard on his shoulder. 3 mice in suits!  Even behind the desk, there were odd photos of people with animals. A woman riding an ostrich? Al Capone with a parrot?  I asked our host and he laughed that these were all rigged photos. "We just have a bit of an animal theme at our hotel, since we're near the zoo." I was sad that he couldn't confirm that Al Capone had been a guest once. I'd read that he'd stayed and made use of a secret tunnel. Coffee Area The lobby also had a tall table set up near the coffee station. There was no restaurant, but we saw a few people bringing in carryouts and enjoying them at the table.
Complimentary coffee was available 24-7. Each time I grabbed cup, I found something new to admire. A cleverly decorated windowsill... with a turtle shell? Cafe Tables My favorite sitting area was right beside the front windows. At times we saw a guests playing cards, or sipping coffee.  On a rainy day, it was fun to sit and look out. I spotted folks jogging... dog walking... pushing strollers. It really did remind me of Europe, where rain doesn't stop activity! Floor Two There are 55 rooms in the 4-story hotel. Our room was on the second, so stairs were quicker than the slow elevator.  I was amused by the endless narrow hallway, with its wavy floor. We were at the very end, so I usually felt a little drunk by the time we reached the door! Critters on the Wall As we walked to our room, I admired the framed animal silhouettes.
Our door number on the second floor, had an animal as well. I'm still not sure if that was a brahma bull on our door? If so, we were on the Brahma Floor. Room 224 We'd kept expectations low for our historic double queen room. I knew some reviews had complained about old decor.  But the room served its purpose well. The long and narrow space worked fine. And we even had a complimentary bottle of wine. I think that was a special booking perk.  There was a desk that we never used and drawers that weren't needed. But there was a ceiling fan, which I loved for noise! Two Windows I always love a room with a view and this one had an unusual one. Our 2 windows looked down on parking garages.  We just laughed at that and lowered the shade. Unique Bathroom I was sort of delighted by the crazy bathroom, with its pink tile and gold framed mirror.
The toilet area was worth a photo! Glass block, surrounding a vintage Jalousie window, plus a radiator hanging overhead! There was a real bathtub, which I enjoyed! Robes! Sorry Don! There were 2 robes and The Girls got them!  What fun to wear matching robes with my daughter and watch SNL on TV! Yay for that! Mornings On both mornings we enjoyed breakfast in the lobby with coffee and food from nearby shops.  Just steps away from our hotel, we found Stan's Donuts and Olor Coffee Bar!
We had "pop tarts" from Foxtrot and breakfasts tacos from yet another nearby shop! Maybe not the healthiest way to start the day, but enjoyable! Nighttime at The Willows We were tied up both nights, so we didn't spend lots of time hanging out at the hotel. Both evenings we opted for Ubers, instead of pulling our car from the $25 -a night garage, to deal with traffic.
When we did step out at night, the area felt safe and friendly. I must say, I was impressed with the neighborhood vibe. Exploring the Area The weather definitely inhibited out wandering a bit. My umbrella was useless, since the wind only turned it inside out. But the area was still fun for exploring. Heidi and I walked to Lake Michigan one afternoon. I wandered early in the morning to admire the architecture in the neighborhoods. The 3 of us found numerous restaurants, within walking distance! And best of all, everything felt safe and clean. Maybe the rain played a part? What's Notable The Willows wasn't the most ideal, luxurious or cheapest hotel, but there was something about the 100-year-old building that just grew on me. It was a treat to come and go so easily. The staff was always friendly and welcoming.  The rain almost made our stay cozier! And if it had been a few degrees chillier, they would have started up the fireplace! Now that would have been nice!
I would say the location and relaxed, comfy atmosphere made it a good stay. And today the price is only $104.! So that is a much better deal! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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