#34 The Luther Hotel

Palacios, TX in July 2013

A year ago, Don and I enjoyed the 3rd night of our Mini Texas Road Trip at this hotel.  We had already enjoyed a kitschy teepee overnight and a somewhat haunted hotel experience. Our last night at The Luther was like coming home!

Our Host, Jack


Jack greeted us on the porch when we arrived. I felt like I already knew him since we'd spoken on the phone a few times.  During our phone conversations, I had detected a hint of a southern drawl in his welcoming voice. We had discussed room options as well as some possible storms.   But once Jack mentioned the great porch with rocking chairs, I didn't worry about weather.  I love sitting on a porch when it's raining.

Checking In

Jack welcomed us inside and I was delighted right away to see the old phone booth near the front desk.  I don't believe that's the phone Jack used when we spoke earlier, but that phonebooth was much more than a decoration.  Jack shared a little history about the hotel during the 1940's, when it became home to many military families and soldiers stationed at Camp Hulen. That old booth got a lot of use during those years!

Summer Breeze

Just like our hotel the night before, the Luther lobby was not  air-conditioned. But there was a breeze blowing through the front door screens and right out the screendoors in back.

Checking In

It was surprisingly pleasant for a July day in Texas. There was something welcoming about NOT being blasted with chilled air while we checked in at the desk.

 I hate having to wear a sweater every time I enter a Texas hotel, theatre or restaurant in the summer. But, I was still glad to know the guestrooms were air-conditioned... so now worries about sleeping.

Feeling at Home

Entering the lobby felt more like  someone's home than a hotel.  There was a piano beneath the stairs and photos lining the wall going up the staircase.  Some of the framed photos were a little more exciting than your typical family portraits. There were photos of famous guests who stayed in the past, particularly celebrities who came to entertain the servicemen in the '40's.  It was fun to imagine Rita Hayworth walking up the same stairs we climbed.

Heading Up

We headed up the stairs to The Magnolia Room.  We did have an air-conditioner, so no need to have the airflow through the shuttered outer door.  The stairs continued up to a third floor, penthouse.  Too bad that room was booked because it had a private terrace and a great view of the gulf, out over the lawn.

Like Grandma's

Our room was clean and cozy, with a King bed.  The curtains, Venetian blinds and bathroom tile reminded me of my grandmother and that is not a bad thing. I don't think you have to be a baby boomer to crave nostalgic touches.

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The Veranda!

Don and I made good use of the porch, which at one time spanned the entire hotel and was considered the longest porch in Texas.  We enjoyed some refreshing beverages while we got in some good rocking.  We didn't get to see a storm, but we had a great view of the vast lawn, rustling palms and the bay beyond.  It was fun to imagine some fine gents in seersucker suits playing croquet on the grass in 1905... or maybe a few ladies heading to the bay pavilion, dressed in their bathing or dancing attire. 

An Incredible Building

It's hard to absorb how huge this hotel is. Jack has been hosting and renovating on his own since his wife's passing in 2005.  Her parents, Charles and Elsie Luther bought the hotel in 1936 after it had fallen into disrepair.  It took them about 4 years of massive renovations before they could open, but Jack's approach is more gradual and realistic for the times. 

Touring

Jack took us on a tour and showed us the rooms he has been remodeling.  His enthusiasm made us want to come back with paint brushes and help out for a weekend!

 I liked being able to step outside and see the fresh white paint,  in contrast to the weathered eastern portion of the building.  In this day of "tear down and build new" it's a treat to see work in progress. 

Another Era

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 I was glad to get a glimpse of the old Tourist Court the Luthers  added during renovations in the 30's.  The 11 rooms and garages haven't been used in years, but I love this reminder of an era when motor travel was all the rage. 

Enjoying the Evening

As we finished up our drinks on the porch we heard a guitar strumming from the penthouse balcony.  Earlier, we had met the good spirited couple who had booked the penthouse.  As we headed off across the lawn in search of dinner, we heard Elaine holler down. "Hey! Are y'all goin' somewhere fun?"  We laughed that we didn't know yet, but we hoped so.

Sunset and Dinner

We did catch a good sunset behind some boats in a nearby harbor. And Jack's suggestion for dinner at The Outrigger, (Which was once a plumbing/hardware store) was perfect!

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Back to the Porch

We returned to The Luther just in time for a little socializing. Elaine and Reid and their grown son had brought the guitar down to the porch. Jack came out to join us and there were lots of shared stories and singing and  eventually a little dancing.  We were about ready to turn in when Reid and his son pulled out some gear and started getting ready for some night fishing.  They invited us along and I still regret that we didn't give that adventure a try!

Breakfast & History

In the morning, we helped ourselves to some cereal and coffee and settled in with some amazing scrapbooks of hotel history.  

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A Connection with LBJ

Of all the scrapbooks, I was most intrigued by one that included letters from Lyndon B Johnson to May Myers Callaway.  

Mrs. Callaway was the grandmother of Jack's wife. She knew LBJ from his youth and corresponded with him over the years, giving him advice and thoughts about his leadership as a senator.  Most of us have images of this sometimes outspoken, Texan president in the White House.  But these letters revealed such a thoughtful side of LBJ, as he pondered the suggestions from his friend.

What's Notable?

The most memorable and amazing thing about our stay was how "at home" we really felt.  A B&B, which is often an old house, can feel like a home... but rarely does it feel homey.  The Luther was an actual hotel, in fact a gigantic hotel, that felt like a home.  Jack was not overly or awkwardly chummy in his hosting, like some B&B hosts.  He just made us feel like we could be ourselves.  And even better, he made the guests comfortable with each other.  It's time for another visit!