Sweet Hotel in a Sweet Town
Built in 1860's
We pulled up on a late Wednesday afternoon, in July. The place looked even more intriguing than the internet photos!
A New Greek Revival Look
In 1923 a new owner took over and made the hotel even grander. George W. Maher was brought in to help with a new look.
Sadly he died in nearby Douglas, just a few years after the renovation. Seems like every time I do a little research I find a sad story. Maher evidently took his own life, due to struggles with health.
Back to Our Visit!
We arrived around 6:00 and grabbed a parking space right on the street! I was extra excited because our 2-day stay was going to be shared with my sister and sister-in-law! I kept fingers crossed as we headed in. I hoped Jennifer and Kate would be okay with our hotel pick.
As soon as we opened the door, I was relieved. It felt like we'd stepped into a cozy home. There was a set of stairs straight ahead and a wood paneled living room to the left.
To the right was a reception desk and another sitting area. So far so good!
Down the Hall
Lots of Carved Wood
I'm sure there were some good stories behind these fine pieces, especially the one with the curious carving of The Last Supper. Maybe these were in the original furniture store. Who knows?
Our room was lovely. There was no musty smell, which should almost be expected, with a hotel that is a century and a half old!
Maybe we were staying in a newer part. I hope not, since I usually ask for the most historic rooms. But the room was comfortable and classy, with antiques and fireplace.
The Tiffany style lamp certainly fit the era. There were a few framed prints, that I wouldn't have minded owning!
Ahhh for the Bathroom!
Even some of the very nicest historic hotels, have cramped bathrooms. I could have lived in this spacious and luxurious room!
The separate shower was large, the separate sinks were a bonus and the tub (with complimentary bath salts) was heavenly. I've never used a tub with a built in step!
After checking out the room, I wandered a bit. I found the back stairs near the breakfast room.
I took a trip up the stairs to the second floor and peeked in a few open doors... before coming down the stairs in front. The upper rooms that I saw were nice, with good views. But, it was a treat not having to hike up and down, during our 2-day stay.
The glassed in porch was set up for the daily complimentary breakfast. The next morning, Kate and Jennifer grabbed us a perfect table, at 8 am.
We had a nice view of the nearby park, while we sipped our coffee in flowered cups. Well, half of us chose the dainty ones, with saucers. I like having a cup or mug choice.
At the dresser, we helped ourselves to fruit, salads, olives and breads. Then our blueberry French toast and bacon arrived! (The next day was quiche)
As we lingered over coffee, a woman wandered in and we began to chat. She turned out to be the owner, Catherine Simon. She relaxed against a table and entertained us with her dry wit for a while. Pretty fun hearing about her nearly 30 years running the hotel... the fun of hosting her own family reunions... Kate told her she was the kind of relative everyone wants! Catherine answered, "You've got that right!"
Enjoying the Shared Space
In the back of the hotel, we found more sitting areas. There were wine glasses available and some fresh cookies. There was a player piano, that we didn't use and a TV that luckily wasn't on.
The first night, we chatted near the wood burning fireplace... which would be nice in winter. It felt like we were in our own home, hanging out. Except that we had to hush our voices occasionally, since rooms were nearby.
Lounging Near the Pool
The second evening, the air was balmy and we sat out on the lounge chairs near the pool. At one point, I headed inside with my plastic cup to get some wine from the room.
On my way to the room, I stopped to chat with some guests in the hall. Then, I waved to Catherine, who was heading down our way... just in time for my faux pas.
"Oh no! Oh I'm sorry! Oh I can't believe I did this! Oh... and why did my key even work?!" I just stood their rambling while they stared. Then they assured me it was fine and I thanked them for not throwing anything at me. I started to leave and the gracious, older man asked, "So what room are you in?" I hated to admit we were neighbors and I was staying next door. He smiled slightly, "Well, I guess we'll be paying you a visit, at 3 in the morning." There was a wink in his voice and I know he was kidding... but that comment sort of terrified me.
I had no more embarrassing moments that evening. In the morning I tiptoed out, trying to be a quiet neighbor. I went on a run, heading past the park. Who needs a hotel fitness room, when you've got Saugatuck sidewalks! I looked back at the long hotel, on that peaceful morning.
I asked Catherine later, how you get up to the roof balcony. She smiled, like she was sharing a secret. She said that was where she lived and then she described her oasis on the 3rd floor. I wish we'd gotten an invitation.
In our two days, we never used our car once and that was a huge part of what made our hotel stay wonderful. My morning run let me peek at the quiet town, without people.
On the River
Saugatuck was also charming, when it was filled with people. We took the ferry over the Kalamazoo River, we shopped and dined and watched the crowds gather for music in the park. What an idyllic setting! We couldn't have asked for a better location.
Our 15-room hotel was the perfect size. It sat on a quiet street, in a town of less than 1,000... also a perfect size.
I felt like she was my mother shooing me outside to go play. Was that annoying? Not at all. I just wanted Catherine to adopt us, so we could be invited to the next family reunion.
A Fun or Funny?
I assured him that it would be an entertaining overnight. "It could be fun... or it might just be funny."
Historic... and Touristy
I had good, but vague memories of the little German town. However, the images I saw on the internet made "Michigan's Little Bavaria" look like a German theme park. Just how hokey would it be?
Then I decided, even if the town was jammed with tourists and dripping in corny German decor, it could be fun and memorable. Besides, Frankenmuth was more than a stage set. There was real history. The town was founded in 1845, by 15 German-Lutheran missionaries.
July 4th Weekend
We arrived on Friday, over 4th of July weekend. That could have been asking for trouble, right there. But, we were ready to take on the whole Bavarian Inn & Frankenmuth Experience.
Bavarian Inn's Confusing History
When we spotted The Inn from Main Street, it looked like it covered the whole block. It actually looked pretty festive, with all the colorful flowers.
My photo just shows part of the rambling complex. Surprisingly, the right portion of building goes back to 1888. It was built as a hotel by the Fischers, the family that began the all you can eat fried chicken trend, in Frankenmuth. The hotel didn't have a Bavarian motif at all.
In 1950, the Zehnder family bought the Fischer Hotel. William (Tiny) Zehnder Jr. and his wife Dorothy ran the place. Tiny (I so love that name) died over a decade ago, but Dorothy at 97, still can be found helping out in the restaurant's kitchen!
Zehnder's Famous Chicken Dinners?
This Zehnder family is confusing! It took a while to get this all figured out.
Today both places serve fried chicken and German food... and are run independently, by different parts of the Zehnder fam. That's just strange. Two competing businesses across from each other... in a town of less than 5,000... both owned and run by the same family that immigrated in the 1800's! Whew!
Then and Now
After a hearty lunch, Don and I headed across the street to the Bavarian Inn. We walked through the beer garden, through the door in the 50-foot Glockenspiel tower. This was part of the Old World expansion that Tiny added in 1959.
Lost in the Inn
Across the River
Outside, we found a carriage driver, who pointed out the Bavarian Inn Lodge, across the Cass River. She told us we could walk over the covered bridge. Okay, maybe this was Disney World! The sight of the complex, on 7 acres of land... was comical.
Holz Bruecke from 1979
The bridge (like the hotel) was not old. But it was pretty.
We followed a buggy across the bridge and met a couple who asked if we'd take their photo. They had just become engaged. We had a fun chat and then the groom-to-be asked Don, "You've been married 40 years? What's your secret?" Don answered with a grin. "Be a good listener." Sweet.
Hiking to the Lodge
We headed down the road, laughing at ourselves. These buildings looked like a fairytale village! What were we getting into? And why were we leaving our car way behind?
We passed a giant birdcage, with peacocks. We watched a few kids roll down the hill, on a nearby lawn.
When we got past the huge parking lot, there was a colorful lineup of buildings. Of course my photo from early morning, looks peaceful. At 2:00 pm, there were toddling tots and crying babies in strollers, old folks with walkers and smokers on benches.
But the flowers were pretty. And I was happily amused by the painted stucco, in the shady, garden area.
It was about 90 degrees, which felt pretty warm after our hike. We were glad the lobby entrance was in the first building.
Lots to Look At
I shouldn't be a travel snob. I shouldn't make fun. But it was hard not to laugh when I took in some of the decor, as we stood in the snaking, check in line.
My neck hurt from staring upward, at the upside down Christmas tree (decorated in spring colors) and the German dolls and wooden oxen yoke, deer heads and pastel umbrellas. What a display!
Where Do We Go?
I should have listened when we were given directions to our room. It was a confusing maze through all the buildings. It would have been easier if we'd just walked outside and headed past the Banquet/Conference Center...
We could have just parked down by the "Tower Entrance". But instead we wandered inside, turning down many wrong halls and dodging families with all their pool gear. Were we the only guests with no children?
Don and I grinned and shushed each other, every time we read the special reminder signs! Then at last, we found our room!
I wish I'd taken some photos of all the cleaning carts and rollaway beds and folding cribs, that clogged the hall. But I must say, the staff couldn't have been friendlier. They cheerily apologized every time we stepped around their carts.
We stepped into our room and chuckled just a bit. The size was fantastic. We had no complaints about that.
The bathroom and furniture were a bit dated, but all was clean. We'd seen photos on the website, so it was no surprise. However the balcony door and windows bothered me. There seemed sort of industrial and odd. But at least I knew there was a balcony, with a river view, just outside them. We'd paid extra for that perk.
When we opened the door and realized we had a shared balcony, I suddenly was less enthused. I hadn't pictured us sharing the balcony space with other families. Plus, we suddenly had no privacy in our room, when the curtains were open. Oh well.
The view of the trees and garden and river was nice. It was all pretty peaceful out there... just a few muffled squeals, now and then. That was off to the left, coming from the kids inside the tower, sliding down the enclosed water slides. Funny.
There was another odd thing about our room.
The wall decor made me think we had accidentally stepped into someone's personally decorated timeshare room. I'm fine with some dated decor and slightly musty carpet. Don and I would stay only at Marriotts, if we had those concerns. But there were so many framed photos?
At Home With the Claramunts
It took a while to get it... but our room was named for the Claramunt Family. There were pictures of Morrall and Nancy and their 3 kids all over the room. There were even family Baptismal certificates on the wall. Why?
Okay, I'm sure the Claramunts are outstanding folks. But it was strange being surrounded by them. And why are those frames not centered over the couch?
So I guess we weren't the only ones who lucked out with a family focused guest room. As it turns out, every one of the 360 guest rooms, is named for a local family or person in the community. Gee, if only I'd seen the list of all the room names, earlier. I could have requested to stay in the room that says MEYER on the door. That's my maiden name, from my German great grandfather. Next time?
After taking in the wonders of our room, we set off to explore.
Don and I peeked around at some of the pool excitement, but really we had no urge to participate. There were 4 indoor pools, plus putt putt, ping pong and pool, as in billiards... gift shops, arcades. There was lots to delight the families.
Where's the Beer?
In the evening we hiked back across the bridge, in search of a little German beer. We headed into the original building where the Fischers once got in a little trouble for selling beer, during prohibition. Evidently the Zehnders did as well, across the street!
The street entrance took us into a waiting area, for two of the dining rooms. There were no crowds waiting, like there had been at lunch. We weren't hungry yet, but I was curious. I peered through the glass into Tiny's Room. That must be used for special events.
I peeked into the Family Crest Dining Room and I became less hungry. I just wasn't ready to eat another big meal in a big banquet room... even if the staff was dressed in festive lederhosen!
Beer and Pretzel!
Instead, I chose to be amused by a pouting mannequin, wearing his lederhosen. He was sitting at a small bar, I sat beside him and posed with an empty mug. Don posed with pretzel and beer. Both were good and we were happy.
So we spent the evening in the building where the whole Frankenmuth fried chicken thing started, about a century ago and we didn't end up eating! That is sinful. We could have eaten a German feast as well. But we just weren't hungry after our big lunch.
By the time we were hungry, the dining rooms were clearing out. Some of the rooms weren't even in use, which seems crazy. It was a Friday night in July!
Back to the Lodge
We found some life back at the lodge. The crowd at Lorelie's Lounge was a mix of locals and tourists. The live music was pretty decent and our server, Holly kept us happy with popcorn!
She assured us, the 10:00 Schnitzelbank Sing-a-long was a must. Don knows some German, so he was able to sing along, with the help of our napkin. What a hoot! They even had a real schnitzelbank work bench on display near the stage. I only wish we'd been able to do a little German polka dancing.
We slept well in our king bed, which actually came with both soft and hard pillows. Extra points for that. I woke early and threw on my running shoes.
One of the nicest parts of the stay, was getting up early before the heat and crowds. I had the most lovely run, over the bridge and into town. I even stopped to play the little instrument, beside the sidewalk.
Back on the Porch
After a quick shower, Don and I made coffee and pulled out some pastries, we'd brought with us. I was determined to use that shared balcony before we left. Luckily our neighbors seemed to be sleeping. It was pretty pleasant and quiet.
We packed up, said good bye to the Claramunt Clan. We were soon on our way.
Yes there was some hokey stuff and our room was not the most luxurious. But Don and I really enjoyed exploring and lounging and figuring out the odd Zehnder history. I don't know that we'll go out of our way to stay again in the future, but I'm mighty glad we stayed this time!
July 4th in Ann Arbor, Michigan
Even Longer Ago
Even longer ago, I was a high school student, living in Ann Arbor. I remember this hotel, with its formal, almost European appearance.
Don also lived in Ann Arbor then. He was a student at U of M, but we didn't meet until a few years later, in St. Louis.
My Dad worked at U of M and it seemed like my parents were always meeting up with special guests for drinks or dinner, at the Bell Tower. It sounded like a ritzy place. Was it?
Dad's office was just around the corner from the hotel. I have fond memories of wandering around that familiar area. I didn't exactly hang out at the Bell Tower Hotel, but I wondered about it. I imagined important people staying there... like Arthur Miller or Leonard Bernstein. I'm not sure that they ever did.
When we arrived on July 4th, the street had just opened up, after a morning parade. We lucked out and got ourselves some free holiday parking, right in front.
I took a good look at the 3-story stone facade, with flags and window boxes. I'm not sure what they were thinking in 1967, when they added that oddball 4-story structure, with balconies. I'm pretty sure the angled building on the left, wasn't there before.
I don't actually remember what the lobby looked like, when I first peeked in, as a teenager. But it probably had the same, proper English-looking decor.
She didn't know, but happily looked for a history printout, that she recalled seeing once. She couldn't find it, but offered to do a Google search. That was actually very sweet of her. I thanked her for offering, but I'd already tried and failed to come up with anything. We finished checking in and carried our bags 5 steps up, to the elevator.
Burton Memorial Tower
I had hoped we could get a room with a view of Burton Tower, across the street. Since we were staying at the Bell Tower Hotel, it seemed fitting, to look out and see the 83 year old tower, that houses a grand carillon! But those rooms were higher in price. I settled for a photo, from the window near the elevator.
There also weren't any parents with high school or college students. I'm sure the atmosphere will change, when campus is busy in the fall.
Our room was tiny and clean. Very tiny. But it was our choice to pick a room with the lowest rate. The decor was slightly updated since our last visit, but it looked a little worn.
The maid left the TV on in the bathroom, or we never would have known it was there. Out of 230 Notable Nights, this is only the second time we've had a TV built into our mirror. Not needed, but fun!
In past write ups, I've complained a lot about trendy bathrooms that use glass in their doors. Our nice, but small bathroom had a frosted glass window, in the door. Why? That little detail means... If you want to get up early and shower, you have to share your bathroom light, with the late sleeper. Oh well. It really wasn't a problem, this time.
The best part of our stay, was the location! Besides hearing beautiful sounds from over 50 bells, in the limestone tower, we were just steps away from campus.
We wandered in the evening and morning, spotting familiar buildings and a few we didn't recognize. We saw Heidi's first dorm and Don's old dorm... The Power Center where my dad directed plays... Hill Auditorium, where I watched my brother graduate from law school... And in the evening we joined my dear high school friend, Lorie, for some July 4th festivities on the lawn.
I was disappointed that our hotel no longer had a restaurant at all. I wanted to sit in the dining room/bar, where my parents once sipped Manhattans...
But our hotel was within easy walking distance of Main Street and State Street, with lots of food options. We wandered later that night and found some pizza and beer, which hit the spot.
Seeing the old theaters lit up, brought back memories. I remember an organist performing before the movie started, at The Michigan. I remember cringing over "Jaws" at the State Theatre!
On Friday morning, Don raced down to put money in the meter by 8:00. Then we headed through the lobby, to the area where our complimentary breakfast was waiting.
In 2004, this area had been the Escoffier restaurant. I actually found the brochure from our last stay and had a good time comparing! We didn't have a chance to dine in that dark and formal room 15 years ago. But in 2019 we enjoyed a little breakfast. The bright modern look was an odd, but refreshing contrast to the rest of the hotel.
I wasn't hungry enough to sample all the hot and cold options, but I got the perfect amount for me. I was thrilled to grab a complimentary New York Times and the coffee was extra good. It was a nice end, to our easy stay.
It was such a treat spotting places and buildings, that triggered memories. And how crazy that Don and I each had stories to share from the same years... when we both lived in Ann Arbor and didn't know each other.
So, we explored, we remembered and we discovered! That's notable. There's also a notable fact I learned about that sweet clock tower. But I won't share, because it just makes me sad. Too much knowledge is not always a good thing.
A Restaurant With a Hotel
Don and I had a few reasons to book Weber's Hotel for our recent visit. A night in a luxurious guest room, wasn't really one of them.
Serving Food Since 1937
Herman Weber started selling burgers and beer, at an Ann Arbor gas station in 1937.
Herman died a few years ago, but his son and grandsons operate the well loved restaurant and hotel, today.
This is how Weber's looked when Don and I pulled off Jackson Road, this past July. The building looked totally different, than how I remembered it.
We parked and walked towards the entrance. I recognized the funny-shaped "W", that always reminded me of a devil's pitchfork.
The entrance was sleek and welcoming, with stone, wood, brick and flowers. There was a small crowd, relaxing on the side patio. We rolled our bags through the front doors and suddenly laughed at ourselves. We had come through the restaurant's entrance and our suitcases looked a little out of place.
We drove around to the other side, where we found the entrance to the hotel. I had no memory of it, since my family only came to Weber's to eat, back in the seventies.
The hotel didn't exactly look 50 years old. It was built in 1969, to replace an older hotel owned by the Webers. Renovations and additions over the years, changed the look. But the funny W was still there!
It was July 3, the day we checked in. The busy staff was friendly. We chatted a bit about Victor, the Elk... who is given a red nose and renamed Rudolph, every December.
Mid Century Modern?
I glanced around the hotel's interior. I have no idea how the decor looked when it was built, 50 years ago. The fairly recent renovation, looked clean and fresh.
The Mid Century Modern furniture and fixtures, fit the hotel's history pretty well. But the MCM style is becoming so common these days, it hardly feels retro, anymore.
The elevators were kind of fun. There might be a story with those... but we were in a bit of a rush.
Room in the Older Section
We found our room at the end of the hall, near some diamond pane windows. I snapped a photo later, at night. I remember how those colorful diamonds glowed at night... back in 1975, when I was at Weber's last.
4th Floor Room
We dashed into our room to quickly change clothes for dinner. As I said, our overnight had more to do with our dining adventure. I didn't have time to grumble about our lack of view. (All we could see was a roof) I didn't even care that there was a bathroom towel sitting on the sill, soaking up moisture from the a.c. unit. Oh well.
I did like the modern touches here and there. The space age lamps and artwork... the large desk, decent TV and heavenly soft bed, were all good.
I loved the smooth modern, rattan chair in the corner. I cared less for the bathroom, which had not been updated. Some rooms in the hotel, did have spiffier bathrooms. But I didn't really care.
Off to Dinner!
In minutes we were dressed and on our way. We found the hall that connected to the restaurant... and there it was! This was what our Weber's stay was really about. I was geared up, to revisit my past!
The swanky dining room had changed from the days when my family visited years ago. But the space with the vaulted ceiling, still had a festive feel. It was packed, when we entered. Not so much, when I took this photo, long after our meal.
Don and I were hungry, but this wasn't really about the food. We were excited about our very special dinner dates that night. Lorie and her mom, Judy were already seated at a lovely table, with white linens, surrounded by a lively July 4th holiday, weekend crowd! A piano player entertained nearby and waiters rushed back and forth.
A stranger actually took this photo after we finished dinner. We were unable to get our waiter, to stop for more than a second to snap a photo of our table. But I couldn't let the evening end without a picture, to remember our fun gathering.
We sipped cocktails and feasted on delicious breads. Our meals arrived on classic plates. Maple Leaf Farms Duck, Amish Chicken... All good! We talked for 3 hours, without a pause.
We pondered the past, remembering when Lorie and I met in high school, 45 years ago. We fretted over the state of our country. We eagerly discussed a new jazz club. We moped over a few downtown. And we laughed over old prom memories... Our table felt like a comfy island. We hardly took notice of all the noise and activity that surrounded us.
We really needed no extra entertainment at our table. But at one point, I just had to pull out my old Ford Motor Cookbook, featuring Weber's Supper Club, in 1963. I showed the watercolor image and dessert recipe, to Lorie and Judy. We all laughed and then I made the mistake of trying to include the busy waiter, in our book amusement.
"Do you by any chance still serve Almond Rum Cream Pie?" I asked. Our waiter was busy, but I refused to take a hint. He really did not want to look at my cookbook, but I sort of insisted. I knew better. I am very aware that my cookbook totally delights some and bores others. He had to remind me he was busy.
Luckily the failed cookbook attempt could not dampen our spirits. It just made us laugh harder. We celebrated the silliness by ordering another decadent dessert. Weber's has been serving the special ice cream treat with toasted coconut, hot fudge and whipped cream, since the '60's.
I made a quick trip to wash my sticky hands in the restroom... and to inquire at the hostess station. "Is Mr. Weber here tonight?" Rats. The man I'd observed was not the owner. Herman Weber's son probably would have loved peeking at the old cookbook and sharing memories. Or maybe not.
Quiet and Cozy
By the time we had finished up, most of the diners were gone. Lorie pointed out some of the cozier dining areas where she and her mom meet for their weekly dinners. I've been wanting to join them here for years... and we finally did! We said our good byes and it all just felt so satisfying. What a perfect place to have our special reunion!
Wandering and Wondering
Before heading to our room, Don and I wandered back through some of the other dining areas and I wondered about all the celebrations and conversations that have taken place, since 1961. How many business deals? How many wedding proposals?
I remembered a couple special meals my family had enjoyed at Weber's, when I was a teen. When I spotted the round table in the corner, I remembered a dinner, where my father introduced his future wife. I can't say that was my best memory.
Now I have a " happy reunion" to add to my collection of Weber's memories.
Don and I took our time, heading back to our room.
We had a good old time looking at the photos on the Wall of Fame! So many curious guests have come to Weber's. Colonel Sanders, Leonard Bernstein, Louis Armstrong... Jimmy Durante.
Another Wall Surprise
I was pretty giddy, when I found a framed watercolor image on another wall. It was almost identical to the illustration in my cookbook. That was some good entertainment before heading to our room.
In the morning, we took our $15. food voucher to the dining room for breakfast. We had been given that voucher as a little perk, to make up for the fact the pool was closed for renovation.
I was impressed that the dining tables had linens, even in the morning. But, we decided to go for a faster breakfast, at the restaurant's bar.
We ordered cappuccinos and breakfast pastries and had the best time chatting with our young server, Megan.
Megan was chatty and upbeat and she passed the cookbook test with flying colors. She was delighted to flip through the pages AND she posed for me! Thanks Megan!
Before checking out, Don and I took one last look around. We wandered down a retro-modern staircase near the restaurant and climbed up a spiral staircase, in the pool area.
They were renovating the indoor pool space and I had to grin at the thought of how wildly modern, this atrium must have seemed in 1969. Back in the day, the pool view rooms, with their glass doors and spiral staircases, must have been extra exciting for the winter guests!
As we headed off, I tried to decide what was notable about our stay. For me it was all about connections.
So glad we had a happy and notable night at Weber's!
Polish Dining & Lodging in Cross Village, MI
Don and I heard about the iconic Legs Inn Restaurant, before heading to Michigan in July. We had planned to celebrate Don's Polish heritage with a feast. But when I heard they had cottages, I called to inquire... so we could feast and sleep.
I reached the owner and asked if any cottages were available. "Have you been here before?" She asked in a somewhat worried tone. I answered no and she continued, "We don't have TVs, you know." I assured her that was fine. She said she wouldn't charge us until we arrived. I had the feeling she hoped we wouldn't show up.
Since the 1920's
We arrived in the afternoon and parked in front of the curious stone and timber restaurant. We looked above the windows and saw the white, inverted cast iron stove legs, that gave the place its name. The wooden door with all its odd growths, was just a hint of what was inside.
Gnarly Roots, Stumps & Limbs
When we walked through the door, I felt like I had walked right into one of my childhood fairytale books. The gift shop, tavern and restaurant were all created by Stanely Smolak, a Polish immigrant who came to the US in 1921.
I found a young woman in the restaurant and told her we had cottage reservations. She seemed surprised, then said she would get the owner. "This is family run and they need to be consulted." She said with a smile. The woman I'd spoken with on the phone, rose from a table covered in paperwork. It took her a while to find our reservation in a notebook. Once again, she wanted to know if we understood there was no TV. It sounded like this was code, for something much worse.
After all the warnings, we opened the door cautiously and found two cot-like beds to the left and a dirty kitchen to the right. The bathroom had a pile of dirty towels on the floor and the bedroom had an unmade bed. "This just makes me mad!" I grumbled. We marched back up the hill to tell the woman what we'd found.
"Our Waiting Room"
The woman acted surprised when we told her the room hadn't been cleaned. I was surprised that she was surprised. Or was she surprised?
We already knew there were no other hotels available, so we took deep breaths and headed out to the garden area to wait an hour for the cleaning.
Michigan Adirondack Chairs
It actually wasn't too torturous. We sat in two chairs shaped like Michigan, with a view of Lake Michigan. It was pretty outstanding. As we sat, we brainstormed strategies for enjoying our stay, since we knew we wanted to spend as little time as possible in the cottage, even if they got it clean.
A Different Cabin
The woman gave us the key to a different cottage this time. There was a picnic table and a huge willow tree, which was nice. But I didn't get my hopes up about the interior.
$149. is cheap for a cottage near Lake Michigan. But for that amount we could have had a spotless room at Holiday Inn Express, with two bedside tables. But probably no awesome teepee curtains.
At least the place was clean. We had no need for the kitchen, but we made use of the kitchen chairs...
We still had a long time to kill before dinner, so we took the chairs outside. Don played his ukulele.
We sat under the huge tree, enjoying the bug-less, Michigan summer air. It was peaceful, except for our cottage neighbors a couple doors down. We had a good laugh when an apple core dropped from the branches above. I thought our neighbors might be playing a joke or making a statement about ukuleles. But after I studied the core and saw the tiny nibble marks, I realized a critter had taken it to the tree. Do squirrels eat apples? Do chipmunks climb trees?
I had been sort of determined to have a bad time at our cabin, but before long we were having fun. We can't help it. I brought out the wonderful rocks we'd collected at my brother and sis-in-law's beach, just days before. Don played his uke and I played with rocks.
Summer evenings are long in this part of Michigan, so we had lots more time to enjoy the lawn area behind the restaurant. We grabbed a wine and beer and one of the few picnic tables.
The view, high on the bluff was lovely. We looked out as the sun lowered over the lake and we watched the tourists eating Sunday dinner on the patio. Some of the guests, waiting on tables looked impatient, but we were in no hurry.
The Prized Michigan Chairs
We grabbed the mitten-shaped chairs when they became empty. I told the young girl taking names in the restaurant, that we would wait as long as it took for a window table.
Our Funny Table
There was still some sunlight and a view by the time we were seated at the funny wooden table. Night finally fell as we ate our amazing Polish feast, served by our young Polish server, Ulga. Polish sour soup, potato pancakes, pierogis, goulash, rye bread... we were happy. On the way out we chatted with the owner's son Mark. His parents took over ownership in 1987, the very business Mark's Great Uncle Stanley started nearly 100 years ago.
I would never recommend the cottages and I have little desire to stay again... unless the price was much lower. But I'm glad we stayed. The meal, lovely weather, garden with view and the crazy and curious old building, made our stay mighty memorable. Yes, we could have enjoyed it all without an overnight. But it was awfully nice lingering and absorbing all afternoon, then heading down on foot to our cottage at bedtime.
Christian Resort or Chautauqua?
We exited M-119 and found ourselves in a perfect Norman Rockwell town. I was eager to learn more about the summer resort community, with over 400 Victorian homes.
I knew the town had religious roots, beginning as part of the Methodist Camp Meeting movement in 1875. I also knew Bay View adopted the Chautauqua movement in 1885, bringing educational lectures and music to the community. But when I booked our stay, I didn't know about Bay View Association's controversial rules that discriminate against non-Christians. I would learn more.
The Terrace - Opened 1911
We turned off on Encampment Road and found this odd building in the middle of a lovely Victorian neighborhood. The dorm like appearance put me off a bit, until I realized this was the back of the building.
We passed through the porch to an equally homey living area. I spotted a couple of guests quietly reading. They were actually turning pages. There was no electronic glow!
Big Old House
The front and back doors were open, letting in lovely Michigan air. I spotted some bibles and started thinking we might have to hide our wine sipping.
"The Tea Room"
The room that was originally called the Tea Room, looked surprisingly grand with chandeliers and shiny floors.
We spotted a window in the Tea Room that let us know we could indulge in more than tea. The owner, Mo Rave chatted while he got us a beer and wine. He said they'd served 80 guests the day before. He was enjoying the quiet Monday evening.
The Best Side!
The other side of the inn was much more appealing, with dramatic stairs leading up to the dining porch. We could have parked on the street at the bottom of the hill, but that would have been a long hike up with our bags!
"Homelike and Attractive"
I found an old advertisement, that bragged about Bay View's newest and most modern hotel. Even today at 106, this modern, Arts and Crafts style building is still one of the newer buildings in town.
Enjoying the Porch
The porch with its chandeliers and white table cloths, was a piece of heaven. We chatted with another couple who asked if it was our first stay. "It's our 9th visit!" They bragged. They assured us that we would be returning.
Our room was on the third floor. There was no elevator, so I took a break and wandered on the second floor. I spotted more bibles on a table and started to feel like I was at church camp. I know most hotels have bibles, courtesy of the Gideon missionaries. But they're usually in drawers.
I'm always a little curious about doors and sometimes I have to take a peek. The short door turned out to be a laundry chute. At the end of the hall, I was drawn to the screen door. I wanted to step out and enjoy that glowing light, but the porch didn't look like it would hold me.
Our corner room was tiny, but pretty darn sweet. One window looked down at a home that reminded me of my family's yellow house in Grinnell, Iowa... 50 years ago.
There was a lot of furniture in our tiny room, which should have inspired me to play one of my favorite childhood games, Don't Step on the Floor. That game was a lot more challenging in the Yellow House, with larger rooms and less furniture.
I had to chuckle as I examined the decor. The chenille spread, lacy curtains and Venetian blinds, all took me back. I counted 3 framed poems in our room and they were all about mothers. I named the room Mother's Room.
Pizza on the Porch
I wonder if I've ever eaten pizza on a porch? If I lived in Bay View, I would make it a weekly thing. The Greek pizza was excellent, but the setting made it even more delicious.
Sitting high on the porch, we dined and took in the view. I felt like I was watching my childhood neighborhood. Young boys walked by carrying fishing poles. A young girl scolded her misbehaving puppy. We saw a couple of families headed towards the bay. We hurried to finish up, so we could catch the sunset over Little Traverse Bay.
Sunset at 9:15
We played it close, but made it to the small park in time. I counted 21 bikes and 1 scooter, in the grass. The bike owners had already crossed over the pedestrian bridge.
The view from the bridge was idyllic. Sunset & bay in one direction, trees & Victorian homes in the other.
Back to The Terrace
We headed back and lingered on the porch a while longer, then headed up before "quiet hours" which started at 11. I laughed when we pulled down the chenille spread and I spotted the bubble gum colored sheets. That would have delighted me as a child.
In the morning Don and I heard doors and creaking floors, as guests headed for breakfast. We followed along and found a mouthwatering buffet with everything from frittatas to biscuits and gravy. We ate well and headed off for a long walk. Our mission... to try once again to understand this beautiful, but almost too perfect town.
We met a workman who offered maybe too much information. Bottom line... you have to be Christian to own a house in Bay View.
One More Note
I have always loved experiencing places that remind me of the good old days. Our stay in Bay View, unfortunately also reminded me of the discrimination and division of the past... and today. Maybe if the Bay View Association adopted new bylaws that fit this century, it could become inclusive, again. In 1876, any man or woman of good moral character could become a "member" and own a home. Maybe we need to go further back in time!
Michigan's Grand Hotel, Since 1886
I have wanted to stay at this appropriately named hotel for a long time. The grand-ness wasn't the only thing that lured me. I was initially drawn to the size of the porch, which is 600 feet long! Evidently, it's the longest porch in the world.
Arriving by Ferry
Since the hotel sits on Mackinac Island, we headed by ferry across the Straights of Mackinac, to reach the hotel. This is what we would have seen, had it been a clear day.
It was actually pouring on the day Don and I ferried to the island. We only had one night at the hotel, so I should have been grumbling. But I was so giddy about our stay, that I hardly cared. Besides, I love sitting on a porch when it's raining.
The Island and Town
If it hadn't been raining when we arrived, we could have seen the sweet "village" as we traveled from the ferry station by carriage.
The island, which covers less than 4 miles, became a tourist attraction and "summer colony" in the late 19th century. Cars have been banned on the island, practically since the time they were invented. Instead, the island guests and 600 residents use horses, carriages and bikes to get around.
Our carriage/taxi kept us mostly dry with the plastic flaps. We didn't luck out with one of the hotel's enclosed carriages. But a bellhop, wearing one of those wonderful little drum-shaped caps, did usher us towards the lobby.
From Rain to Sun
The rain stopped as soon as we arrived. Even with puddles and soggy flags, the hotel was stunning. When the sun came out, it was even more delightful. Best of all, the rains scared the crowds away from the wonderful porch.
Keeping Tourists Away
Actually this is about as close as tourists (who aren't hotel guests) can get to the hotel, if they don't pay $10. for a visitor's pass. This elite-sounding rule made me cringe for a moment. Then I thought about all the guests staying in 393 rooms, and I pictured about 800 people rushing to enjoy the porch after the rain. I suddenly was okay with that rule.
The Parlor Floor
After checking in, we strolled throughout The Parlor floor. My 6 a.m. photo doesn't show all the people who were enjoying Afternoon Tea that day. But my photo does show the bold colors and decor of designer, Carleton Varney, who transformed the Grand's style in 1976. The gigantic red, geraniums on the carpet matched the 2,500 geraniums, planted along the porch railing. (someone else did the counting)
Flowers, Tea and Harps...
Don and I wandered a bit before finding our room. We passed by a table covered in flowers, sweets, tea and iced Champagne. We paused to enjoy the harpist, performing near a painting of a harpist.
As we studied the framed artwork and mural covered walls, I thought about how much my grandmother would have loved this interior. She would have thought it, "grand indeed!" Of course, grand was a word Daw used frequently, for often less exciting things. "Oh, it would be grand to go on a drive!" But oh, she would adored the classic style!
We followed the geranium carpet down a hall, just off the Grand Parlor. I was curious to see our room, since I'd studied the website photos. At first, I thought the Carlton Varney decor looked a little garden-clubbish. But the more I studied the photos, I chose to see a bright and whimsical, Dr. Seuss-look.
I was ready to open our door to stripes and florals, pinks and greens! But we both paused in front of our door and noticed how it was framed with an extra flair! We learned that our room, was one of the 40 or so "named suites"! How did we get that?
The Lincoln Room!
Our corner room was missing all the bright fun of the C. Varney decorated rooms. But it felt calm and dignified, with about 20 portraits of Lincoln! Our spacious, themed room was quite a surprise, since we had booked with a special low rate offer.
Yea for Lincoln!
It's hard not to feel important when you're staying in the Lincoln room. Were they doing random upgrades when we arrived? I wondered if the desk clerk looked at us and thought, "No they don't look like they'd choose the Betty Ford Room or the Pat Nixon Room." Did the woman just sense that I had grown up in a house with a huge portrait of Lincoln? I did, actually. So I felt right at home.
Room to Get Ready!
Since The Grand has a dress code after 6:30 pm, it was nice that we had lots of space to spiff up for dinner. There was a cute little dressing area and a glamorous chandelier in the bathroom!
A third floor view would have been nice, but our porch level, corner room gave us two views. Our windows facing the porch showed us the rockers, geraniums and Lake Huron beyond. The side window gave us a peek towards a quiet road, lined with Victorian houses.
The photo with yellow awnings, shows our windows at the end. Since the rain scared guests away from the porch, we felt like the whole end of the porch was ours.
Happy Hour on The Porch!
Dress code hadn't kicked in so Don and I grabbed drinks and headed out to the porch before dressing up. A couple strolled by and offered to take our picture if we would take theirs. We were game for that. Then we made a toast to our 16th president.
From our rockers, we could frequently hear carriages passing by below the porch. I jumped up to watch a few carriages pass, before heading up the hill, with all the lovely homes.
I Want Them All!
At some point, Don and I walked up the road and tried to pick out the house we thought was most impressive.
Porches With a View
I tried to imagine living in any of the houses and having this as my porch view.
Parade of Families
From our rockers we had some fun watching the earliest diners, strolling the porch before dinner. I had the fun of helping out 2 different families as they corralled kids to take family photos. The family of 9 was the trickiest. I did some stunts to get the little boy laughing. I was hoping they would invite us on their yacht as a thank you, but maybe everyone who stays at The Grand isn't rich after all.
The Cupola Bar
Before dressing for dinner, we made one more stop. The 2-story bar in the rounded cupola was worth the price of an expensive drink. We climbed to the upper floor, with an opening that held an impressive, colorful chandelier.
The view was pretty amazing. A church steeple here, the hotel garden there, the Mackinac bridge and Lake Huron...
Before the dining room opened I had a peek and saw the tables being meticulously set. The mirrored columns made it look like an infinity dining room. I don't think I've ever seen such a large dining room in my life. It takes a kitchen staff of 100 to serve up to 4,000 meals a day.
Don Makes a Fashion Statement
Here is Don looking at the wine list after he gently talked his way past the fashion police at the dining room entrance. "I'm sorry Sir," The young woman had begun apologetically. "But we require jacket and tie in the dining room." When Don explained cheerily that a bolo tie was a special kind of tie, he sounded a little bit like The Grinch talking to Cindy Loo Hoo. I tried not to laugh when the sweet woman turned back from her phone call to tell us she had gotten the okay to let us enter.
I'm wondering if they gave the young man with the green hair a hard time.
Once again, I was stunned with our luck. Even with Don's bolo tie, we were given a window table, without asking. Our 5 course meal was heavenly from start to finish. I'll put more details in the dining blog for that!
Dressed Up Diners and Dancers
There was something so oddly delightful about dining in such a huge space with couples and families, all dressed up. I studied them in the dining room and later in the Terrace Lounge, where Don and I danced a few... to the tunes the Grand Hotel Orchestra. It was easy to be reminded of a cruise ship, or an elite country club, or even a wedding reception. But the midwestern crowd was actually pretty down to earth. I didn't see kids playing video games at the table or couples checking their Facebook. It was a treat watching families celebrate together.
About 200 sailboats had arrived the day before. They were involved in a race that ended in Mackinac. It was pretty wild seeing the equipment and sails "drying out" after the stormy race.
We had to check out at 11, but were able to store our bags and enjoy the beautiful day. It was hard to decide how to best make use of our time. Staring down at the garden would have been enough.
Pool or Croquet?
It was tempting to stop for a game of croquet or bocce ball as we strolled past the rose bushes. It would have been memorable to have done a few laps in the 500,000-gallon, Esther Williams Pool. The movie "This Time For Keeps" was filmed here in 1947, starring the swimming/movie celebrity.
For the remainder of our time, we chose to rent bikes and take in the heavenly scenery on the 8-mile island loop. There were tots with training wheels, grannies on tricycles and horse carriages to dodge, but we had no mishaps. We relaxed on the porch one more time before catching a ferry back to our car. We'll save the fudge shopping and fort tour for next time.
The grand size of the hotel and the charm of the historic island made for such a magical combination. The top hats, tails, harps and carriages could have seemed a little corny or Disney-like in another setting. But this hotel has been entertaining guests for 130 years. It all worked!
The porch itself would have been enough to please me. All the rest, was icing on the cake!
My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains.
I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years.
The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding!