The Graduate Chain Chain hotels rarely get written up in the Notable Nights blog. But our stay at Ann Arbor's Graduate Hotel, was indeed notable! There are over 30 Graduate hotels, found in university towns just like Ann Arbor. Each is unique and reflects the flavor of the location. Don and I happen to love this location. Nostalgia Our 2-night visit was a curious mix of enjoying the present and recalling the past. The hotel's atmosphere was enjoyable for any traveler. But for me it triggered some fun memories as well. This will be a rambling write-up for sure. I moved to Ann Arbor in 1973... Don came to Ann Arbor the same year. We both lived in the college town for only 2 years. I was in high school and Don was at U-M. We have fond memories, but they're different ones. That's because we met a few years later, in St. Louis. Began as "Campus Inn" The 14-story hotel has always looked impressive. The Campus Inn (as it was called for 45 years) was built a couple years before we moved to town. It was the the tallest building in Ann Arbor, in 1970. I remember the exterior, with flags blowing in front. I have a few more memories that involve the inside. Oh how classy that lobby felt to a 16-year old! Nothing like the Holiday Inn motels from family trips! Old Photo I have one photo of the Campus Inn, from way back when. I took it with my brother's Nikomat, for my photography class in 1974. I snapped a similar photo with my cellphone last June, after we arrived in Ann Arbor. The beautiful Harris Hall still stands next door. I love the contrast of the old and new building. Even if the new one, is no longer new. Chairs and Fountain I was excited to see what memories would surface. I took a quick peek out front, before we checked in. I'm not sure I remember that fountain, but I was happy to see it. I love a fountain! I'm quite sure there were no rockers facing Huron Street, in the seventies. Rocking chairs belong on porches and in lodges, not modern high-rise hotels. That's okay, because I love rocking chairs! Check In As soon as we stepped into the lobby, we were hit by the cozy collegiate theme. The front desk was surrounded by walls covered in yardsticks. Actually I'm pretty sure I never used a yardstick in college, or high school. The lobby counter looked a bit like something from an old campus library. The plaid fabric gave the place a clubby feel. Sitting Areas There were lots of cozy nooks for reading or gathering. And a few chalkboards, to work out some math problems. I loved the original Eames Lounge Chair, with its new, outdoorsy fabric. There were some nods to U-M athletics, in the artwork. Mostly related to football. But I spotted this great vintage diving image. One Long Table Near the front windows, a 50-ft library table filled the whole length of the lobby. I never spotted anyone with a book or pencil. Maybe a laptop, once. I loved this view from above. Dramatic drapes framed the 2-story, floor to ceiling windows. The ceiling appeared to be wallpapered with a book print of some kind. Four enormous chandeliers hung from that decorated ceiling. Lobby in 1970 & 2024 The b&w image shows how Campus Inn's lobby looked when it first opened. Imported German crystal chandeliers decorated the ceiling. I have vivid memories of that dramatic stairway, rising up in the corner. It was totally wrapped in carpet then. Which could have softened a fall, if you took a tumble over the rail-free side! Speaking of Stairs I dug through old photos, hoping to find anything from Campus Inn, back in the day. I was excited to find a photo of Mom & Dad, with Inge Morath (wife of Arthur Miller) at an opening night celebration. Lobby stairs behind them? Nope! Wrong stairs and wrong lobby. The photo was actually taken at The Power Center for Performing Arts, just a 5-minute walk from the hotel. Power Center (where dad spent much of his working hours) was built just a year after Campus Inn. Soaring glass walls and swirling stairs, were pretty popular in early '70s! Stair Memory Heading up the stairs is now a little safer. Handrails have been added! Today's colorful carpet design is made up of a patchwork of Persian rug pieces! As I climbed to take a photo, I thought back to the last time I headed up those stairs. It was May of 1975 and I was attending my Senior Prom, wearing a floor length halter dress, made by Mom. Upstairs After climbing the stairs, I explored in search for the 2 ballrooms that I vaguely remember. The room with windows was most familiar. 1975 in Ann Arbor was not a year (or place) for taking proms super seriously. But I was happy to have the high school prom experience, especially since it was held at Campus Inn. Too bad I didn't get "asked to Prom" until a week before. Ouch! But Mom was fast with the sewing machine! Prom Gang This is the only photo from that evening. No endless selfies or videos to preserve memories. I wish I had snapshots of the 2 ballrooms and my classmates doing The Hustle and dancing to Kung Fu Fighting. I wish I had a video of me teaching my date to waltz (to disco music) just minutes before the Midnight Waltz... which was not a serious thing. Mostly I remember having a great time with my friend Lorie. (R) Such a special friend, to this day Up We Go After being swept back in time, I was excited to see how the guest rooms and hallways had changed over the years. Floor 5 had dark walls and fun floors and humorous framed artwork here and there. Wall Art The locally inspired cartoons were filled with inside jokes, that no out-of-towner would ever get. I only lived a short while in Ann Arbor, but I absorbed enough in 2 years, to be totally amused! I wasn't in college during those years, but Dad taught at the university. Later my 3 sibs became U-M grads. My hubby Don and our daughter attended U-M. I kept being reminded as I explored, how strongly I feel connected to this college town. Room #515 Our room was only 5 floors up and we had no campus view. But the room was more entertaining than what I remember from my last stay. There was a felt pennant to hang on the door, if we didn't want to be disturbed. And the room keycards looked like old student I.D.s. I was amused and displayed them on the desk pad. Whimsical Decor I'm guessing all 207 rooms are pretty similar, with dark walls and vintage-style furniture. I did appreciate the wall decor! Outdoorsy woman with marshmallows, behind the blue chair! ... framed sheet music and a nude and a car! And how about a library card catalog, holding the flatscreen TV. I appreciate a light bathroom, but this one had dim lighting and dark walls. But the framed art was bright and made me want to sing, "Hail to the Victors"! Sleep The bed was comfy, with a fresh white duvet. I half expected a dated plaid bedspread, like Don might have had in his U-M college dorm in 1974. I love almost anything retro, but I prefer white linens! We didn't have the best view, but the big picture window let in lots of light. 2006! I stayed one other time at the Campus Inn, years ago. Not Prom. Kids didn't do that in 1975. I have fond memories of staying in the hotel (and watching American Idol) with daughter Heidi. She was moving from the dorm, after freshman year. This 18-year-old photo is baffling. How is that even possible, that my daughter has doubled her age? 2006 View In 2006, our room had flowered comforters and we actually had a view of the campus. In this photo you can see the Frieze building on the left. I have memories of rehearsing a scene in one of the classrooms. My sister was directing it for a theatre class. Similar View In 2024, I took this photo from a room on the 14th floor. The view is similar. You can see the Burton Tower in the distance... but sadly the Frieze building is gone. Demolished in 2007, to make way for some fresher buildings. And how was I able to peek out of a 14th floor room, that wasn't mine? Chris and Karen! My brother Chris and his wife Karen were also staying at The Graduate! On the 14th floor! There is nothing more fun than sharing a Notable Night (or two) with family! We 4 met up in the hotel's Allen Rumsey Cocktail Lounge. Cheers to these two! Catching Up! The cozy cocktail lounge was hopping when we met up just after 6. Our bartender, Alante (sp?) couldn't have been nicer. He gave us Happy Hour prices even though we'd arrived a smidge late. I told Alante we were visiting from Idaho and Texas. I laughed about my Prom in 1975. Alante chuckled at that and wanted to know, "Which school?" I told him I was a Huron River Rat and he shook his head with pity. "Just like my mom!" He said they gave his mom a hard time. She was the only family member that didn't graduate from Pioneer. Wolverines The majority of the photos displayed in the lounge focused on the Wolverines. I heard that the team at one time used to stay at Campus Inn the night before home games. The photo of Coach Bo Schembechler (far left) suddenly reminded me of his son Geoff... in my 11th grade theatre class at Huron. Nice guy. Famous People A lot of notables (unrelated to football) have stayed at the hotel over the years. Gerald Ford stayed many times. Playwright Arthur Miller also stayed when he was premiering a new play in 1974. Another memory here... I remember sitting in the lounge when I was 16, at a table in the center of this room. I recently verified the memory, in an old diary. Dad and Arthur My dad was involved with the premier production of Miller's "Up From Paradise" that year. I went to watch one of the rehearsals at The Power Center. Afterwards we went back to the hotel where Miller and his wife Inge were staying. We gathered around a table in the lounge, for drinks. A Coke for me. In my diary I mention talking to Inge at the rehearsal and being fairly giddy that she invited me to come visit them in Connecticut sometime. (never did) I wrote about how fascinating it was to sit in the bar at Campus Inn and hear the post rehearsal discussions... about changing some dialogue... adding a new song... And then I wrote about the excruciating embarrassment, when I realized the table leg that I was thumping with my foot, was actually Arthur Miller's shoe! Years later, I laughed about the evening I played footsie with Arthur Miller. Outside at The Graduate The hotel's lounge was a fun place to catch up and reminisce. But it was the rocking chairs, that I'll remember most fondly. Late one evening, we pulled some rockers together and enjoyed some wine. Sitting 4 in a row, with a surprisingly loud fountain, meant that I talked just with Karen. Don talked with Chris. I will always remember how pleasant it was, rocking and talking with my sister in law, comparing our own college memories. (neither at U-M) Funny how the college theme worked itself into our conversation! At midnight the fountain suddenly turned off and the lights went out. It felt like we were being reminded of curfew. When we stepped back in the lobby, I spotted a cluster of guests at the long table, putting away a board game. A young man sat at a grand piano (tucked beneath the stairs) playing some soft little tune. It felt a little dorm-like, in a fun way. Morning In the morning, we took our 20-dollar voucher (from Expedia or the hotel?) to the lobby's coffee shop. I had fun chatting with the barista about the portraits on the back wall. She seemed as amused as I was, about all the painted characters. These were portraits of real people, once displayed over fireplaces and couches! How did they end up here? "Do you have a favorite?" I asked. She did. Her fave was a portrait of a red-headed woman, but it was hidden behind the coffee machine that couldn't be moved. Allen Rumsey Supper Club I regret that we didn't get to sample a dinner at the hotel's "Supper Club". I love that term, especially when it's written in glowing red letters above our heads! Don and I ended up sitting a spell in those comfy green chairs, with Chris and Karen. They were finishing up breakfast. Next visit, I need to try out one of those plaid booths. Each had its own display of vintage prints! Someday I want a full story about who had the fun job of shopping estate sales and thrift shops, for all the portraits and prints that decorate The Graduate. What's Notable? In this blog I've jabbered endlessly about memories that surfaced during our stay. But we had 2 notable nights to collect new memories! We stayed off season at a college-themed high-rise hotel, just steps away from University of Michigan campus! I'm glad to have experienced all the nooks and crannies... the bold decor and clever details... the lounge and lobby, the rockers and our comfy room. All good. It might be fun to visit during a football weekend, with lots of life and good people watching. But I enjoyed it at a quieter time, sharing the nostalgia with Don and Chris and Karen. I loved being able to sit (in numerous places) and share observations and stories. I loved being able to walk to downtown and campus and absorb all that's new... and rejoice in the things that haven't changed.
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Our B & B in Ann Arbor, Michigan In June, Don and I found ourselves at this charming Ann Arbor inn... once again. I was confused when I started to book a room at the Chalet, months earlier. "Stone Chalet" in 2024 The name of the inn didn't ring a bell. But website photos began to look familiar. "Vitosha Guest Haus" in '05 I dug out old photos from nearly 20 years ago, long before I was blogging about Notable Nights! Don and I stayed a couple nights in 2005, when we visited our daughter as a freshman at U of M. There were no leaves then and the name on the sign was different. October 2005 How could I have forgotten about our stay in this Swiss style chalet. The granite stones were more visible then, without leaves. Built 1917 The home was built over a century ago, for Dean Myers and his family. The home's address was 1917 Washtenaw Avenue. Same as the year it was built. Coincidence? In 1946, the Myers sold the home to the Unitarian Church. Parsonage Added in 1948 After the Unitarian Church purchased the property, a parsonage was built to house the minister and his family. The family moved out at some point and the building was used as a school and for meeting rooms. (This photo shows a later renovation) Modern Sanctuary Added in 1950s Initially church services were held in the living room of the Chalet house. Architect George Bigham, (who was also a U of M professor and member of the church) was later chosen to design a new sanctuary, next to the stone house. The mid-century modern structure was completed in 1956. I read somewhere that Frank Lloyd Wright paid it a compliment. Bed & Breakfast Since 1999 By 1999, there were 3 buildings and a carriage house sitting on the 3-block property. The Church sold to a couple who created a bed & breakfast. 11 rooms were fixed up in the chalet and Parsonage, to house guests. They rented out the sanctuary for events. We stayed in the Parsonage Room (above) in 2005 and 2024. First Stay I found photos from when we visited 19 years ago. I remember the bay window and antiques. New ownership changed things in 2022, so I had a hard time identifying our old room in website photos. Looks like our old room is now called, The Grand Room. I remember that the canopy bed was so high, it required a little green step stool, for short people. The funny thing had one too many steps, which tempted me to use it like a diving board. I remember how Don and I cleverly used the stool as a table for our wine and cheese. We set the timer on the camera and had a toast. We were acting like 18 year old college freshmen, going against the B&B rules. No Food or Drink in Room. Arriving This Past June We arrived around 4 pm on a warm Monday. We parked on the side street and walked towards the sanctuary. I had no memory of where we'd checked in before. I did have a memory (mostly because there's a photo!) of the bright space, with lots of light wood. I do remember the knight near the organ. And the white grand piano. I also remember a dog named George who lounged in different parts of the inn. I wonder if he was named for the architect, George Bigham? A Lively Vibe But instead of finding a lazy doggy inside, this time we stepped into the modern sanctuary and found the space filled with boxes and a jiggling bounce castle! I thought maybe there was a summer camp happening on the property! But suddenly Daisy greeted us. Our Host Daisy wasn't a camp counselor, she was mom and aunt, to the 2 kiddos jumping in the inflatable climber. She was also mama of the 8-week-old baby girl, peacefully resting nearby. And she was our host! Daisy had the energy and the enthusiasm of a new owner. She and her husband purchased the B&B not long after the pandemic started. on the way to our room, she pointed out lots of things she was excited about. Like the amazing flowers that had arrived and would be planted the next day! And a tiny rose bush that she planted about the time baby Sophia was born. Finding our Room Once again we stayed in the Parsonage building. We parked conveniently on a side street and rolled our bags to the door. It would have been fun to have stayed in the stone building where the Myers once lived. But this was easy. Once inside, the entrance to our room was on the right. The Garden Wizard Room A handful of the Chalet rooms are themed and we just happened to get one. One step inside and we were surrounded by Harry Potter surprises. There was a Nimbus 2000 broomstick, propped up right beside the door. A desk near the bed was covered in Potter-themed props. There was an owl (or 2) and a uniform and lots of pillows with Potter quotes. There were numerous Harry Potter books and puzzles and playing cards. Along with all the themed stuff, there was a gas fireplace and some comfortable chairs and a king sized bed. We had a few windows, including a bay window that looked out on the garden. There were Harry Potter glasses to wear and Harry Potter glasses to drink out of... Even the bathroom was themed. I'm not even sure about these characters, sitting on their toilets. That was probably more than I needed. Trying to Embrace I do love a theme, but it's hard to embrace a theme when you know little about it. This room was created for Harry Potter fans who would recognize every tiny detail. I was mostly overwhelmed by all the Wizard-y stuff! But, I made a quick attempt to have some fun with the available props. Then it was time to move outside! Exploring the Property My main goal was to find a place to sit and enjoy the lovely June weather. I needed to find the perfect spot to enjoy the evening on our one night at the Chalet. There was lots of lawn facing Washtenaw Avenue, but no seating. There were gardens in back and 2 seats near the pond. There was garden table on the west end of the property. The Gazebo! But the very best spot was right next to the Stone Chalet. Beneath the roof of the gazebo there were cushioned seats and a ceiling fan! I grabbed the empty gazebo and texted my friend Lorie and told her where to find us! My High School Buddy Some people have lots of high school friends, but I only have one from the school where I graduated. I was 16 when I moved to Ann Arbor and met Lorie. She made me laugh then and she still does 50 years later! I'll never forget our evening on that June night. Don made drinks and we ordered food delivery. One evening only made me crave more Lorie-time! As the sky dimmed, the birds seemed to get louder. We finished up dinner around 8 and Daisy wandered down the path, tending to a few garden plants, while baby Sophia slept in the stroller. Good Night Lorie left before 9. Work night! And I wandered to see the building lit up at night. I wondered about the 2 families that have lived under this roof. Daisy's family lived here, when they first purchased the property. And I wondered about the Myers family, when the moved inside, in 1917. How many children? Were there any grandchildren by the time the family moved out, almost 3 decades later? Morning In the morning, I wondered about the families some more, when we arrived for breakfast. We didn't come around to the red door on the porch. It was pouring rain. We came through a door that took us right through the kitchen. Daisy was back at work, 12 hours after I'd last seen her. She looked rested and happy as she buzzed around prepping food with 2 other woman. I noticed the child's toy sink and smiled. The Myers' Home I peeked down past the front door, to the stairway and the living area. I wondered if the room past the stairs was where the church services were held, before the Sanctuary was built. I peeked at some of the books and decorations on display. There seemed to be a corner dedicated to strong women! On the west side, I found the sunroom where we ate breakfast 19 years ago. I remember talking to other U of M parents who were also staying and visiting kids! Dining Room This time we ate in the dining room for breakfast. There were 2 tables set up for guests. I didn't intrude with my camera in the morning, but there were guests seated in the middle of the room. Our places were set and waiting for us, near the windows and cuckoo clock. We had placed our order online the night before. Certainly didn't do that in 2005! Don was pleased with his bagel and lox, with capers. I ordered a basic bacon and eggs breakfast. Just right, with a nice hearty toast. Sadly, our table-mates were late arriving and we never got to meet them. But Daisy and the women helping in the kitchen were all pleasant, morning people. A nice end to our stay! What's Notable? A real Harry Potter fan would remember the details of their themed-room. But I'll likely remember the intriguing history of the property even more. We got to stay in a Parsonage... again! Mostly I'll remember enjoying the property in the evening. Sitting in the gazebo with Lorie, surrounded by flowers and birds sounds, with a fan cooling us from above, until the temps dropped. I could almost imagine it was 1917 or 1940... Don and I were Mr.and Mrs. Myers and we had invited our guest Lorie, over for the evening!
I'll remember meeting Daisy, with all her enthusiasm. And I'll remember the cozy dark and rainy morning in the Harry Potter Room... wandering through the kitchen to be fed a delicious breakfast. Glad we got to experience the Stone Chalet/Vitosha Guest Haus, twice! One Night in Detroit I was a teenager when I last visited Detroit, 50 years ago. When recently planning a visit, I felt clueless. Where are the best and safest areas, today? Detroit was intimidating in the 1970's. (I have stories) Even though I knew Detroit had changed, I avoided booking a downtown hotel. On the internet, I found a B&B located in an old mansion, tucked into a historic neighborhood, 3 miles from the city's center. Welcoming The inn's website photos looked welcoming, but you never know. I was relieved when we pulled up to the recently renovated, 122-year-old house. We found the inn's entrance facing Parker Street. The landscaping was fresh and healthy, on an unusually hot June day. Facing Jefferson Avenue The view of the Tudor mansion looked lovely from the corner. This side of the house faced Jefferson Avenue, which had a fair amount of traffic. But the lot was large. The house and drive were set back away from the street, with lots of trees and green space. 1902 Image This old photo shows the house after it was built in 1902. Our room was located on the top floor facing Jefferson. You can see the row of 6 windows. The Home's First Owner I was eager to spend a night in the mansion, built by Frederick K. Stearns, so many years ago. All I had read about him, was that he was a successful businessman and patron of the arts. I was eager to learn more. Foyer I pressed the buzzer and we were met by our host, Rachel Mitchell. She let us into the charming foyer. The first thing that caught my eye was the fireplace, to the left of the door. The words engraved on the mantle read, "Old Wood to Burn Old Friends to Greet" Around to my right was a cozy little nook with painted glass windows and built in bench. There was a medieval feel to the room. Current Owner Rachel graciously welcomed us, even though we'd arrived a couple hours early. She checked us in and gave us a tour. Rachel and her husband Eric purchased the property in 2018. She had numerous stories about the 4 years they've spent renovating. Rachel was passionate about the endeavor and totally game for a selfie! Ballroom/ Music Room As we followed Rachel through the inn, I could hear the soundtrack of Phantom of the Opera, eerily playing in the distance. The dramatic music grew louder... and filled the 3-story room that had once been the Stearns family's Music Room. At one time there had been a balcony just below the beams. (gone after a fire) Dancing! The chandelier high above, made me picture formal attire... skirts swirling over the Ballroom floor. Rachel asked if we knew how to waltz. Don was quick to point to me, as if that would get him off the hook. Suddenly Rachel began to search for a waltz on her playlist. Was she getting ready to teach us? She mentioned the room being used for lessons. But Rachel didn't end up teaching us. She had errands to do and told us to make ourselves at home. When she was gone, I took one look at the wall mirrors and piano and got excited. Dance Studio The room reminded me of ballet lessons, back in my younger years. I remember a piano player who must have been 99. Love those memories! How I would have adored having a music & dance room as a kid! So I told Don I had to make use of that music room while the "house" was empty. First I played a quick tune on the piano. (It clashed with the symphony that already filled the room) Then I noticed a vintage book (ballroom dance instruction) resting on top of the piano. I grabbed it and instead of reading, I used it as my dance partner... since Don was not interested. Sometimes you have to make use of a mansion, when you have it all to yourselves! House Tour After the music room, Don and I toured around a little more on our own. I adored the cheery sunroom with pink flowers and bright green walls. The library felt warm and cozy. There were indeed shelves of books in the library, I just failed to photograph them. Dining Room The dining room was impressive in both directions. Looking towards the foyer, we could see the lovely tile work. The blue Moravian tile surrounding the fireplace, was like something from a fairytale... think Hansel and Gretel! Looking the other direction, you can see some fun geometry. Circles above and arches over the projected bay windows. Are those projected bays? I need to learn my terms. There were some nice surprises within the leaded glass. Rachel pointed out the intricate designs on a circular piece of painted glass. From the 1500s! Near the door to the sunporch, I found a wonderful cabinet that showed off the same woodwork that surrounded the room. Going Up An elevator (added in later years) helped us get bags up to our room on the third floor. The rest of the time I scrambled up and down the red carpeted stairs whenever I needed a little something. A water glass... coffee... a question answered. I didn't mind a bit. The view from above was fun! The light fixture was quite a piece! I could have stopped halfway up and had a rest, on the window seat cushions. But I didn't. I just paused to admire more lovely glasswork. The Zinnia Room Our room was on the third floor, at the end of the hall. Since Rachel has a background with garden design, she named the 10 guest rooms after flowers. Ours was named for a flower, that's a favorite of mine. Slanted Ceilings I loved our spacious room, tucked beneath the tricky roofline. It reminded me of the room I slept in at my grandmother's. The pale green walls and Oriental rug also reminded me of the kids' room at Daw's house. The antiques and flower prints also remind me of Daw's. Daw was a classy decorator so I'm not talking about some Ole Grannie's old-timey stuff! The bathroom did not remind me of my grandmother's house. Her bathroom was not cool. I had to take 3 photos to capture the long and luxurious space! (windows at both ends) I'm furious that I ran out of time and didn't make use of the jetted tub! The King bed was comfy and cozy/ And I was happy to see 2 comfy chairs at the foot of the bed. So often we only get one chair in a small historic hotel room. At the far end of the room was a white brick gas fireplace. The weather was too warm to make use of the remote control feature! Enjoying the Garden Weather was warm when we arrived, but still much cooler than Texas! Don and I had time before our dinner reservations, so we enjoyed a little wine in a garden area between the Stearns House and the Parker House, next door. Today there is a passage between the two. Chatting with Eric As we enjoyed our wine, we met Rachel's husband, Eric. He had been doing yard work. We chatted quite a while about Frederick Stearns and his house. I was intrigued to hear that FK Stearns had huge collection of instruments, which he later donated to the University of Michigan. We called for an Uber and waited in the drive beside the house. When the driver picked us up, he asked a question that made it clear he thought we were the owners of the mansion. A nice thought. Morning In the morning we made coffee with a somewhat complicated machine. For a fee, we could have made arrangements for an in-house breakfast. That would have been lovely, but we enjoyed our granola bars in the sunroom. Over coffee we decided how to use our time in Ann Arbor, before checking into our next hotel. Stearns Collection of Musical Instruments A quick internet search led us to the U of M building that housed Mr. Stearns' instrument collection. Donated in 1899! Today there are more than 2,500 instruments. We got to see just a tiny portion, as we wandered the halls... listening to music coming from practice rooms! What's Notable? The historic inn is beautiful, clean, safe and reasonably priced. $258. is steeper than many of our hotel stays, but it's a very decent price for Detroit. Especially since we didn't pay for parking! It was a treat to meet the people behind this huge renovation. Over 16,000 square feet! How wonderful that Rachel and Eric had the energy and vision! And how fun that our conversations led to a little more exploring in Ann Arbor. That was the icing on the cake!
Sweet Hotel in a Sweet Town Last July, Don and I finished up a little Michigan road tripping, in the town of Saugatuck. The charming town on the banks of the Kalamazoo River, has been attracting summer guests since the late 1800's. I searched the internet and found a place that once catered to those early tourists and I booked two nights. Built in 1860's We pulled up on a late Wednesday afternoon, in July. The place looked even more intriguing than the internet photos! I'm not sure what this building was when it first opened, but in the 1870's, it housed a furniture store. I really can't imagine furniture stores, that long ago. The owner of the furniture store, ended up expanding and transforming the place into a summer resort/boarding house. I'm guessing his old business, furnished the hotel nicely! A New Greek Revival Look In 1923 a new owner took over and made the hotel even grander. George W. Maher was brought in to help with a new look. Maher, was a renowned architect, known for blending traditional styles with Prairie School styles. My knowledge is limited, but it's hard for me to see the European Arts and Crafts influence. I think the original building was Colonial and the Greek Columns were added. My curiosity as always, led me to the internet. I couldn't find any images of the original design, but I learned more about Mr. Maher and his amazing career. Sadly he died in nearby Douglas, just a few years after the renovation. Seems like every time I do a little research I find a sad story. Maher evidently took his own life, due to struggles with health. Back to Our Visit! We arrived around 6:00 and grabbed a parking space right on the street! I was extra excited because our 2-day stay was going to be shared with my sister and sister-in-law! I kept fingers crossed as we headed in. I hoped Jennifer and Kate would be okay with our hotel pick. As soon as we opened the door, I was relieved. It felt like we'd stepped into a cozy home. There was a set of stairs straight ahead and a wood paneled living room to the left. To the right was a reception desk and another sitting area. So far so good! Down the Hall Jennifer and Kate texted us from their room. "We've been upgraded! We have a fireplace and two bath tubs!" We checked in and found out that we had also been upgraded. That meant no stair climbing, with our bags. We headed down the hall, admiring all the antique goodies. Lots of Carved Wood I'm sure there were some good stories behind these fine pieces, especially the one with the curious carving of The Last Supper. Maybe these were in the original furniture store. Who knows? Tiny Knocker Our guest room door had a brass knocker. That's different. My photo does not show just how teeny tiny that door knocker was. Maybe it was just a tricky way to hide the peep hole. Or just a fancy way to show the room number. However, I practically needed reading glasses to see the engraved number on the brass. More on that tiny knocker, later. Room 101 Our room was lovely. There was no musty smell, which should almost be expected, with a hotel that is a century and a half old! Maybe we were staying in a newer part. I hope not, since I usually ask for the most historic rooms. But the room was comfortable and classy, with antiques and fireplace. The Tiffany style lamp certainly fit the era. There were a few framed prints, that I wouldn't have minded owning! Ahhh for the Bathroom! Even some of the very nicest historic hotels, have cramped bathrooms. I could have lived in this spacious and luxurious room! The separate shower was large and the separate sinks were a bonus. The tub (with complimentary bath salts) was heavenly. I've never used a tub with a built in step! Exploring Time! After checking out the room, I wandered a bit. I found the back stairs near the breakfast room. I took a trip up the stairs to the second floor and peeked in a few open doors... before coming down the stairs in front. The upper rooms that I saw were nice, with good views. But, it was a treat not having to hike up and down, during our 2-day stay. Breakfast The glassed in porch was set up for the daily complimentary breakfast. The next morning, Kate and Jennifer grabbed us a perfect table, at 8 am. We had a nice view of the nearby park, while we sipped our coffee in flowered cups. Well, half of us chose the dainty ones, with saucers. I like having a cup or mug choice. At the dresser, we helped ourselves to fruit, salads, olives and breads. Then our blueberry French toast and bacon arrived! (The next day was quiche) As we lingered over coffee, a woman wandered in and we began to chat. She turned out to be the owner, Catherine Simon. She relaxed against a table and entertained us with her dry wit for a while. Pretty fun hearing about her nearly 30 years running the hotel... the fun of hosting her own family reunions... Kate told her she was the kind of relative everyone wants! Catherine answered, "You've got that right!" Enjoying the Shared Space In the back of the hotel, we found more sitting areas. There were wine glasses available and some fresh cookies. There was a player piano, that we didn't use and a TV that luckily wasn't on. The first night, we chatted near the wood burning fireplace... which would be nice in winter. It felt like we were in our own home, hanging out. Except that we had to hush our voices occasionally, since rooms were nearby. Lounging Near the Pool The second evening, the air was balmy and we sat out on the lounge chairs near the pool. At one point, I headed inside with my plastic cup to get some wine from the room. Making Friends In the hall I stopped to chat with some guests. Then I waved to Catherine, who was heading down our way... just in time to witness my faux pas. I could blame it on all the social distraction in the hallway. But I think I'll blame my goof on that door knocker! If the tiny number, on the tiny knocker hadn't been so tiny, then maybe I would have noticed that I was standing beside the wrong door. I waved good-bye to the others, inserted the key and turned the knob. I wish I had a photo of the couple, seated in the cushioned chairs, holding their wine glasses... when they looked up, to see me coming into their room. "Oh no! Oh I'm sorry! Oh I can't believe I did this! Oh... and why did my key even work?!" I just stood their rambling while they stared. Then they assured me it was fine and I thanked them for not throwing anything at me. I started to leave and the gracious, older man asked, "So what room are you in?" I hated to admit we were neighbors and I was staying next door. He smiled slightly, "Well, I guess we'll be paying you a visit, at 3 in the morning." There was a wink in his voice and I know he was kidding... but that comment sort of terrified me. Morning I had no more embarrassing moments that evening. In the morning I tiptoed out, trying to be a quiet neighbor. I went on a run, heading past the park. Who needs a hotel fitness room, when you've got Saugatuck sidewalks! I looked back at the long hotel, on that peaceful morning. I asked Catherine later, how to get up to the roof balcony. She smiled, like she was sharing a secret. She told me that was where she lived and then she described her oasis on the 3rd floor. I wish we'd gotten an invitation. Exploring Saugatuck In our two days, we never used our car once and that was a huge part of what made our hotel stay wonderful. My morning run let me peek at the quiet town, without people. On the River Saugatuck was also charming, when it was filled with people. We took the ferry over the Kalamazoo River, we shopped and dined and watched the crowds gather for music in the park. What an idyllic setting! We couldn't have asked for a better location. What's Notable? Our 15-room hotel was the perfect size. It sat on a quiet street, in a town of less than 1,000... also a perfect size. Our stay was made extra special because we got to share it with Jennifer and Kate. Don and I are so used to traveling with just ourselves, that we forget how fun it is to enjoy hotel memories, with others. By the time we 4 got the cars loaded, we were already sighing about our stay and laughing about our host. I told the others that I'd seen Catherine on my way out and I had gushed to her about our wonderful stay. I chuckled over Catherine's brief response. "Oh? Well, bye now!"
I felt like she was my mother, shooing me outside to go play. Was that annoying? Not at all. I just wanted Catherine to adopt us, so we could be invited to the next family reunion. A Fun or Funny? In July, Don and I traveled in Michigan. I insisted we visit the German town of Frankenmuth. "There's a lodge! It will be fun!" Don showed interest when I told him I remembered eating at some German restaurant, when I was 16. I assured him that it would be an entertaining overnight. "It could be fun... or it might just be funny." Historic... and Touristy I had good, but vague memories of the little German town. However, the images I saw on the internet made "Michigan's Little Bavaria" look like a German theme park. Just how hokey would it be? Then I decided, even if the town was jammed with tourists and dripping in corny German decor, it could be fun and memorable. Besides, Frankenmuth was more than a stage set. There was real history. The town was founded in 1845, by 15 German-Lutheran missionaries. July 4th Weekend We arrived on Friday, over 4th of July weekend. That could have been asking for trouble, right there. But, we were ready to take on the whole Bavarian Inn & Frankenmuth Experience. Bavarian Inn's Confusing History When we spotted The Inn from Main Street, it looked like it covered the whole block. It actually looked pretty festive, with all the colorful flowers. My photo just shows part of the rambling complex. Surprisingly, the right portion of building goes back to 1888. It was built as a hotel by the Fischers, the family that began the all you can eat fried chicken trend, in Frankenmuth. The hotel didn't have a Bavarian motif back then. Fischer Hotel In 1950, the Zehnder family bought the Fischer Hotel. William (Tiny) Zehnder Jr. and his wife Dorothy ran the place. Tiny (I so love that name) died over a decade ago, but Dorothy at 97, still can be found helping out in the restaurant's kitchen! Zehnder's Famous Chicken Dinners? This Zehnder family is confusing! It took a while to get this all figured out. So, across the street from Bavarian Inn, is Zehnder's Restaurant. Don and I actually ate there before checking in. This was the fried chicken biz, that Tiny's parents opened in 1928. Initially they served overflow customers from Fischer's. Today both places serve fried chicken and German food... and are run independently, by different parts of the Zehnder fam. That's just strange. Two competing businesses across from each other... in a town of less than 5,000... both owned and run by the same family, that immigrated in the 1800's! Whew! Then and Now After a hearty lunch, Don and I headed across the street to the Bavarian Inn. We walked through the beer garden, then through the door in the 50-foot Glockenspiel tower. This was part of the Old World expansion that Tiny added in 1959. Lost in the Inn Don and I headed inside and spent forever, wandering the halls, in search of the hotel lobby. We found about 10 dining rooms, many with crowds waiting to be seated. But we found no front desk. Across the River Outside, we found a carriage driver, who pointed out the Bavarian Inn Lodge, across the Cass River. She told us we could walk over the covered bridge. Okay, maybe this was Disney World! The sight of the complex, on 7 acres of land... was comical. Holz Bruecke from 1979 The bridge (like the hotel) was not old. But it was pretty. We followed a buggy across the bridge and met a couple who asked if we'd take their photo. They had just become engaged. We had a fun chat and then the groom-to-be asked Don, "You've been married 40 years? What's your secret?" Don answered with a grin. "Be a good listener." Sweet. Hiking to the Lodge We headed down the road, laughing at ourselves. These buildings looked like a fairytale village! What were we getting into? And why were we leaving our car way behind? We passed a giant birdcage, with peacocks. We watched a few kids roll down the hill, on a nearby lawn. When we got past the huge parking lot, there was a colorful lineup of buildings. Of course my photo from early morning, looks peaceful. At 2:00 pm, there were toddling tots and crying babies in strollers, old folks with walkers and smokers on benches. But the flowers were pretty. And I was happily amused by the painted stucco, in the shady, garden area. Lobby It was about 90 degrees, which felt pretty warm after our hike. We were glad the lobby entrance was in the first building. Lots to Study I shouldn't be a travel snob. I shouldn't make fun. But it was hard not to laugh when I took in some of the decor, as we stood in the snaking, check in line. My neck hurt from staring upward, at the upside down Christmas tree (decorated in spring colors) and the German dolls and wooden oxen yoke, deer heads and pastel umbrellas. What a display! Where Do We Go? I should have listened when we were given directions to our room. It was a confusing maze through all the buildings. It would have been easier if we'd just walked outside and headed past the Banquet/Conference Center... We could have just parked down by the "Tower Entrance". But instead we wandered inside, turning down many wrong halls and dodging families with all their pool gear. Were we the only guests with no children? At Last! Don and I grinned and shushed each other, every time we read the special reminder signs! Then at last, we found our room! I wish I'd taken some photos of all the cleaning carts and rollaway beds and folding cribs, that clogged the hall. But I must say, the staff couldn't have been friendlier. They cheerily apologized every time we stepped around their carts. Spacious... We stepped into our room and chuckled just a bit. The size was fantastic. We had no complaints about that. The bathroom and furniture seemed a bit dated, but all was clean. We'd seen photos on the website, so it was no surprise. However the balcony door and windows bothered me. It was sort of industrial and odd. But at least I knew there was a balcony, with a river view, just outside them. We'd paid extra for that perk. Shared Balcony? When we opened the door and realized we had a shared balcony, I suddenly was less enthused. I hadn't pictured us sharing the balcony space with other families. Plus, we suddenly had no privacy in our room, when the curtains were open. Oh well. The view of the trees and garden and river was nice. It was all pretty peaceful out there... just a few muffled squeals, now and then. That was off to the left, coming from the kids inside the tower, sliding down the enclosed water slides. Funny. Photos? There was another odd thing about our room. The wall decor made me think we had accidentally stepped into someone's personally decorated timeshare unit. I'm fine with some dated decor and slightly musty carpet. Don and I would stay only at Marriotts, if we had those concerns. But why were there so many framed photos? At Home With the Claramunts It took a while to get it, but our room was named for the Claramunt Family. There were pictures of Morrall and Nancy and their 3 kids all over the room. There were even family Baptismal certificates on the wall. Why? Okay, I'm sure the Claramunts are outstanding folks. But it was strange being surrounded by them. And why are those frames not centered over the couch? So I guess we weren't the only ones who lucked out with a family focused guest room. As it turns out, every one of the 360 guest rooms, is named for a local family or person in the community. Gee, if only I'd seen the list of all the room names, earlier. I could have requested to stay in the room that says MEYER on the door. That's my maiden name, from my German great grandfather. Next time? Exploring After taking in the wonders of our room, we set off to explore. Don and I peeked around at some of the pool excitement, but really we had no urge to participate. There were 4 indoor pools, plus putt putt, ping pong and pool, as in billiards... gift shops, arcades. There was lots to delight the families. Where's the Beer? In the evening we hiked back across the bridge, in search of a little German beer. We headed into the original building where the Fischers once got in a little trouble for selling beer, during prohibition. Evidently the Zehnders did as well, across the street! Dining Rooms The street entrance took us into a waiting area, for two of the dining rooms. There were no crowds waiting, like there had been at lunch. We weren't hungry yet, but I was curious. I peered through the glass into Tiny's Room. That must be used for special events. I peeked into the Family Crest Dining Room and I became less hungry. I just wasn't ready to eat another big meal in a big banquet room... even if the staff was dressed in festive lederhosen! Beer and Pretzel! Instead, I chose to be amused by a pouting mannequin, wearing his lederhosen. He was sitting at a small bar. I sat beside him and posed with an empty mug. Don posed with pretzel and beer. Both were good and we were happy. Wandering So we spent the evening in the building where the whole Frankenmuth fried chicken thing started, about a century ago and we didn't end up eating! That is sinful. We could have eaten a German feast as well. But we just weren't hungry after our big lunch. By the time we were hungry, the dining rooms were clearing out. Some of the rooms weren't even in use, which seems crazy. It was a Friday night in July! Back to the Lodge By 9:00, the German band was packing up in the beer garden and the Glockenspiel was playing its last little show. We headed back over the bridge. Man it stays light, late in Michigan! Lorelie Lounge We found some life back at the lodge. The crowd at Lorelie's Lounge was a mix of locals and tourists. The live music was pretty decent and our server, Holly kept us happy with popcorn! She assured us, the 10:00 Schnitzelbank Sing-a-long was a must. Don knows some German, so he was able to sing along, with the help of our napkin. What a hoot! They even had a real schnitzelbank work bench on display near the stage. I only wish we'd been able to do a little German polka dancing. Morning We slept well in our king bed, which actually came with both soft and hard pillows. Extra points for that. I woke early and threw on my running shoes. One of the nicest parts of the stay, was getting up early before the heat and crowds. I had the most lovely run, over the bridge and into town. I even stopped to play the little instrument, beside the sidewalk. Back on the Porch After a quick shower, Don and I made coffee and pulled out some pastries, we'd brought with us. I was determined to use that shared balcony before we left. Luckily our neighbors seemed to be sleeping. It was pretty pleasant and quiet. We packed up, said good bye to the Claramunt Clan. We were soon on our way. What's Notable? It's a little ridiculous that we spent a night at the Bavarian Inn Lodge and we did not partake of the water activities or the dining! That's crazy. Yes there was some hokey stuff and our room was not the most luxurious. But Don and I really enjoyed exploring and lounging and figuring out the odd Zehnder history. I don't know that we'll go out of our way to stay again in the future, but I'm mighty glad we stayed this time!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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