|
Triangular Populus! We spent one fabulous night in this triangular-shaped hotel. The 13-story building sits perfectly on a triangular piece of property in downtown Denver!  Don and I booked a night after we saw amazing photos on the internet. It was the design that lured us, but once we arrived we learned what was behind every detail of the building! Eco-Friendly Populus is the first carbon-positive hotel in the U.S. The website explains that its main purpose is "to provide sustainable, nature-inspired lodging while actively removing more carbon dioxide from the air than it emits over its entire lifespan."  Besides all the practical reasons behind the design, the building just looks plain cool! The whimsical windows absolutely delight me! There are 365 of them.  Some ground floor windows are as tall as 30 feet. Those crazy shapes are fun, the way they make the hotel look like a giant cheese grater. But they're practical. The built-in hood on each window, acts as an awning keeping rooms shaded and channeling rainwater away from the glass. Inspired by Trees A narrower view made the building seem more futuristic... something for space travel or maybe some rising structures in a Seuss book, or an old Jetson's cartoon.
But it was really the aspen tree that inspired the design of this hotel. Think of an aspen grove, where tall trees stand side-by-side... white bark covered with dark eye-shaped scars. What is Populus? I'm a huge fan of quaking aspens, but I never knew the term Populus Tremuloides.  The hotel was named Populus, for the scientific name that basically means trembling poplar. Love it! Inspired by Nature We arrived at 2:30 and got a warm welcome from staff behind the magnificent lobby desk... made from a fallen Rio Grand cottonwood tree! Every nook and cranny of this hotel was carefully planned with nature in mind.  Cameron checked us in and told us some intriguing facts about our nature inspired, luxury hotel. He explained the hotel's One Night One Tree initiative, that I had read about. Our one night stay, meant that one tree would be planted. The hotel is 1.5 years old and over 34,000 have been planted so far. Common Spaces Cameron pointed out the Pasque Restaurant, with its "mushroom tapestry" which we learned more about later.  He also pointed out the Little Owl Coffee Cafe, beneath the floating staircase. I asked the barista what her favorite part of the hotel was. She said the rooftop garden.  I stood back and scratched my head, as I stared towards the curving shapes of the counter and stairway. I found the interior as mind boggling as the exterior. There was something very alive about the shapes and lines... almost growing in different directions.  Before heading to our room I made a quick dash up those stairs.  I found a peaceful lounge with modern seating and earthy colors... a ceiling made from reclaimed snow fencing.  Comfy chairs looked out towards the aspen-eye windows, making me feel like a kid, peeking out of a treehouse. I Love a Surprise I headed back to the coiling stairway and took in the view. How I love a hotel with some stair drama! I've been known to book a hotel just because they have exciting stairs. But I'd booked this hotel for its magical exterior. The stairs were an added surprise!  No sliding down this railing, but I rushed down on foot, eager to grab Don and check out our room. Birds & Curves The elevator offered another surprise. I found myself scratching my head again, when I thought I heard a bird singing softly. It wasn't a trapped bird, but a lovely recording that was created for our riding pleasure.  The doors opened and we stepped into a corridor as dim and quiet as a forest. Did I smell the scent of cedar? Before we reached our door, we met up with a curving wall of concrete. Another reminder that our hotel was as unpredictable as nature. Would we see any straight lines in this hotel? Arches I was glad our room number was lit... my eyes are old. The shape of our lovely lamp mimicked the the arched windows that greeted, when we stepped inside the room.
I was delighted to see 2 of our very own aspen-eye windows in our guest room! It was nice to examine these windows close up. The unique shape and the thick hooded feature helped to block the summer sun... when the clouds moved.
I loved how the windows lightened the room after the dim hall. Mostly I loved how the shapes created frames for our fun city view! Lots of Wood We noticed a lot of wood in the hotel structure, but also in smaller details. Instead of a plastic door "key" we had a round wood key, with swirling rings. Even the envelope that held the keys had a purpose. Seeds were built into the plantable paper.  A wooden box held a QR code for tipping... and we could dangle a wooden sign on our door handle, to remind housekeeping that we were hibernating! Round and Green There were very few angles and no bright colors in the room. Rounded shapes and soft earthy colors.  A roundish desk held a round lamp. Green chairs with curved backs, sat beside the bright round eye-window. 2 pine green glasses and a matching slim pitcher made our water taste even fresher.  We found the water dispenser in the hall. Pure and cold! Without the waste of disposable cups. Angles? Even the bedside tables avoided harsh angles.  A few interesting goodies from books to phone chargers, were within reach. A piece of art sort of floated above the table, as if it had been caught by a breeze. Concrete Ceiling The hotel was built using a low-carbon concrete mix. There are a few eco-friendly purposes for using concrete. Insulation is one of them.  For me the raw looking ceiling was just another fun surprise, when I plopped back on the bed. It gave me a unique way to visualize the shape of our room. No rectangular room for us! Zen Bathroom The spotless bathroom was pleasant from the sweet framed buffalo image...
... to the sweet smelling bath products! Room Entertainment It seemed a little sinful to turn on the TV, to anything besides a nature documentary. But it was Father's Day and this Daddio chose a World Cup match. Fair enough!  Moments later he had better entertainment. Calls from his kiddos! Window entertainment was my first choice for spending a few minutes chilling. I sat on the bed and studied the view.  I actually got to witness 2 little birds coming my way. No worries about hitting the window. The "fritted" or dotted glass broke up the reflection. They were warned and just perched on the sill for a moment. Drinks at Pasque Around 6:30, Don and I headed downstairs to enjoy Pasque's bar. Ethan did much more than shake up martinis for us. When we inquired, he was eager to share everything he knew about the creation of this remarkable hotel.  He told us about the canopy suspended above us. Honestly I can't remember how he explained it! But I looked it up later and relearned... the display is made from 500 sheets of a mycelium-based material. Mycelium is the root structure of mushrooms! Crazy!
Ethan explained how the terrazzo floor was made from locally sourced rocks, gathered near the South Platte River. He pointed to a crack and explained how that happens naturally. Off to Dinner At 7:30 we headed for the elevators. I paused for a dramatic pose on the stairs. Cheers to cool stairs!  We headed up to the top floor for dinner at Stellar Jay. Named for that wonderful crested jay, that we've seen on many a roadtrip, west of the Rocky Mountains.  I snapped a few photos earlier, when I went up to the rooftop restaurant to change our reservation time.
At 4:30, the staff let me peek in and I just grinned when I saw views of the Denver skyline. I kept fingers crossed that we'd end up with a table near a window! We did!  We ended up at one of the few small tables, near an aspen-eye window!  Sitting on the side of the table I noticed a hand-decorated card welcoming us. I looked around and saw nothing like it on any other tables. Our server Jaylen greeted us, "Aren't you celebrating a roadtrip?" she asked.
We were and we made a toast to that! I had totally forgotten that I responded to a question about celebrations, when I booked online. We will be celebrating 47 years of roadtrips together! We started celebrating with an order of sourdough bread, with charred onion butter. Yum!  No photos of my roasted chicken or Don's braised bison short rib! Both were amazing, as was the blood orange sorbet with crystallized chocolate! I savored every bite while enjoying the chic dining space, filled with delicious smells from the wood-fired kitchen! Looking Out While the evening progressed I kept an eye on the amazing view behind my chair. I also popped up a few times to check out other views. Stellar Jay's barstools offered some great views.
I stepped outside to see the terrace lounge, which was empty due to drizzle. Looking back at the window I could see the reflected image of the city. Above the window, I spied the roof garden that the barista mentioned. Next I turned towards the city and took in the view of Denver, on a damp Sunday evening. The gold dome of the capital looking extra dramatic with stormy skies! The clouds blocked the 8:30 sunset...  ...but the view from our table was ever-changing, with the weather and lighting. Night Shots I was determined to see what our hotel looked like when it was lit at night. Don and I stepped out for a while.
It was indeed impressive, but the windows weren't all glowing like I for some reason expected. This is an eco-friendly hotel after all. Don and I walked just a bit before turning in.  I wanted to show him the wonderful statue I'd seen earlier across the street. Night Windows We were back to the room before 10, to enjoy a whole different kind of view through the windows.  There wasn't much happening on a Sunday evening. Which was good I guess. The concrete building did its job. We heard no sounds from inside or outside the building. Before 6 am We both slept well, even though I had only pulled the drapes closed over the larger window. I wanted at least see one of our special windows in view, all night.  Before 6 am I got up and to a look. Sleepy Denver on a Monday. Morning at Populus Since I was up, I decided to throw on shorts and tennis shoes.  I took the elevator to the second floor and admired the displayed slice of tree.  I studied the beautiful woven rugs, on my way to the spacious gym.  My photo only shows one piece of the spotless fitness room. I had the gym and all the windows to myself, while I did a short workout. Wandering I saved a little energy for a brisk walk. The air was fresh and clear after the rain. I wandered the triangular block once again and ventured towards the capital and other nearby buildings. So peaceful before 7. Coffee We made coffee in our room with our electric kettle and coffee bags.
We took our pretty clay mugs with us to the second floor lounge.
There was no need to rush before continuing our roadtrip that morning. We would end up having a picnic in Vail a few hours later, where we studied aspen trees with a whole new appreciation! What's Notable? Our stay was even more entertaining and comfortable than I expected. The hotel felt luxurious and classy, while it put a gentle spotlight on nature and ecology. There was nothing intimidating or braggadocios about all the hotel's eco-friendly details. The staff was extremely welcoming and helpful. I love how everyone we spoke with shared a refreshing enthusiasm for Populus.  Memorable Views! That's what I'll remember most. It was exciting to see the grand exterior, from different angles. But seeing the views from our room (and at dinner) through those fabulous windows, was the absolute best!
Cheers to aspen-windows from inside or out!
0 Comments
A Night at Teller House I'm guessing there are at least 75 historic mining towns in Colorado. Don and I have visited about 20.  On the 11th night of our recent Colorado road trip, we spent the night in one of the most picturesque mining towns... in a charming red-brick "Rooming House". Victorian Mining Town Silverton is located in a remote part of the western San Juan Mountains, a range of the Rocky Mountains.  Mining began in mountains above Silverton, in 1860. By the 1930's, there was an interest in the “Old West” which attracted tourists from around the world. By the 1970s almost all mining operations had closed, but the train continued to operate, for the purpose of tourism. Durango to Silverton Sad to say that Don and I did not arrive by train. But I hope we do that little adventure someday.  However, we saw the train! We stayed in Durango the night before and walked over in the morning to watch the steam train depart the depot. After lunch, we headed for Silverton. Views From the Car I can just imagine the scenery from the passenger car windows.  Of course from our car window, we had a pretty cool view! On our drive to Silverton, we spotted the train at about 2:30! Pinkerton Hot Springs Shortly after that, we made a quick stop to see this roadside oddity.  This is actually a man-made rock pile, with natural hot springs oozing from the top! Weird!  During our 1+ hour drive, I snapped some photos out the window.  Before long we had a pretty fun view of the town! Greene Street There are quite a few dirt roads in town, but Greene Street is paved and mighty wide. We headed east on Greene, past the corner building with patriotic banners.  That large 40-room structure holds the Grand Imperial Hotel. Someday we'll try that one! 8-Room Teller House Our hotel on the opposite side of the street, was a little less grand.  But it was a sweet and simple set-up, with shops on the lower level and 8 guest rooms on the second floor. From 1896 In 1896, brewery owner Charles Fischer built the Teller House, to offer up accommodations for travelers.  At the turn of the century, the rooming house offered guest rooms above and shops below. Just like today. Between 1896 and 1997? In 1997, the building was purchased and restored. That's about all I know!  I would love to know about any of the people who stayed or owned the hotel during its first century. What kinds of shops and businesses were housed below? Is that a vintage HOTEL sign? I found little info on the internet. I needed a host with a little knowledge. In We Go But I didn't actually expect to get answers. Our hotel had a self-check-in plan.  We parked in front and headed for the middle door, between the Holiday Stop (Christmas shop) and White Eye Gallery. Luckily we didn't have too many bags to lug up the long stairway.
What a curious little set of doors, midway! The stairs took us right into the middle of an alcove, beneath a skylight.  Most of the 8 rooms opened to this bright space. We stepped through another small space that connected us to the "office".  I paused to looked at the framed "art" on both walls. Hmmmm... This would have been a lot more disturbing, if been prepared for these images. It helped that I'd read a little something earlier.  These were cartoons that had been sketched onto the walls by tenants long ago. They were discovered during the renovation nearly 2 decades ago.  A couple of the caricatures were just fine. An old man in a top hat. Even a baby on a chamber pot, was amusing. But mostly the drawings put a spotlight on 19th century bigotry. Instead of being funny, these cartoons were sad and sobering. The Office Area In the back room, we found a lovely old desk/counter, a cash register and a framed message welcoming guests.
There were a couple of comfy chairs and shelves of books and more doors leading to a couple of guest rooms. The Portrait We read the message board and went to find our room.  Heading back towards the stairs I noticed a portrait above the radiator. Henry Moore Teller Henry Teller was the man in the frame. The hotel was named for the Colorado businessman/ and politician. He was known for having some outspoken views.  As a Colorado senator he spoke out against the allotment of Native American lands. He was concerned that Native Americans would be left displaced. He sounds like the kind of man who would have had something to say about the sketches on the walls. Room Change It was pretty simple finding our room. There were welcome tags next to each open door, with names of guests.  We stepped into ours and I felt a little disappointed. The window was too high to see out. The queen bed was pretty and so were the chairs... but it felt a bit claustrophobic. Quick Peek! I made a quick peek to see if there might be a better room. The door to #9 was open and there was no tag with a name.
I took a fast look. King bed. Comfy chairs. Windows facing Greene Street! Much Better! I called Talia at the number listed on the Welcome Board. Talia said we could switch rooms, but it would be an 11-dollar upgrade.  Best 11 dollars ever spent! The bed looked fresh and new. The chairs were the comfiest we've had in a hotel, in a long time!  The fabric headboard and needlepoint bench were pretty sweet. I sort of chuckled at the oddly low and narrow bench. I decided it must be for bedtime prayers. I tested the cushion with my knees, put my palms together and grinned. "Thank you Thank you Thank you for this nice room!" Antiques For being 128-years old, our little hotel felt surprisingly fresh. I love antiques, but I appreciate when old places don't overdo. There were 2 very nice pieces that didn't overwhelm.
The marble-top was pretty, with a handy metal stand that held our key and our internet code! The non-cluttered shelves and table top, gave us space for our own things! The large wardrobe mirrors made the room feel larger. Tiny Bathroom The bathroom was quite tiny, but it was clean and fresh and the towels were soft.
We had a decent mirror and a tiny glass shelf and a mini table. Just fine for our 1-night stay. Cheers for the Window! Our cozy room felt bright and open for 2 reasons. The 14-foot ceilings helped.  Three tall windows helped even more! I loved that we could pull the shades down at night, and pull the lace back in the day.
You have to love the little curtain holders! Miniature plates! The View We only had one night in Silverton, so not a ton of room time. But with our great windows, we could sort of be "on the town" and in the room at the same time!  What a view! Colorful buildings, green mountains and blue sky! Chairs and a Fan! Don and I are pretty easily delighted. He loves a good chair and I love a fan... mostly for sleeping. We had both.  After checking in, we decided to grab some water from the "water station" in the hall. With a 9,301-foot elevation, we needed a little sit & hydrate time. We opened the window and relaxed a bit, while looking up some local history on our phones.  I took a quick break from research and snuck a "candid" photo, with the mirror. How clever I am. On the Town After a bit of relaxing we were off to enjoy our tiny town. Drinks first, at the Grand Imperial Saloon.
Then dinner at a very lively Handlebar's Restaurant. Coffee It was still light out at 8:15, when we finished dinner. We headed back across the street and I was pleased to see our Hotel sign illuminated.
We headed upstairs and found the hotel as quiet as we'd left it. (No TVs at Teller) We made coffee in the little room off the office and enjoyed our comfy chairs before turning in. Morning We slept well. There were shades on the upper windows, but we didn't use them. I allowed the early light to wake me and get me outside to explore early. The photos above show mostly early morning photos. But some others are thrown in and labeled. What's Notable? The Teller reminded me a bit of an old red school house. Solid and quiet and orderly. It might have been fun meeting the host or other guests, but our stay in #9 (upper left 3 windows) was just perfect, as is.  Staying in the middle of historic Silverton was the biggest plus. Sure it's touristy, but I loved absorbing the beauty of the buildings and mountains, as we wandered. And in the early morning, the locals were the folks who greeted as I explored. Love this little town and love our little rooming house!
Hotel Maxwell Anderson in Glenwood Springs Last July, Don and I spent a night in this historic hotel.  The red letters on the upper corner were new. That's because the 109-year-old hotel up and changed its name! Hotel Denver When we booked our room, (5 months before our road trip) the hotel was called Hotel Denver. That was a tiny bit confusing.  We could see the old name at the entrance, when we arrived. Renovation in 2024 The name change came along with a huge renovation. I like the feel of old hotels, so I hoped they'd kept some of the historic charm.  Hotel Denver is an easier name to remember, but evidently it confuses many travelers. Hotel Denver is not in Denver. And there's another hotel in in town, named Hotel Colorado. But I think Maxwell Anderson is a mouthful! Hotel Near the Tracks The hotel's new name, is actually that of a fictitious train conductor, who rode the rails through Glenwood Springs for years. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that.  Was the Anderson character already a part of town folklore? Or was he created by new owners? I'm unclear and it seems odd. But I do appreciate the focus on the hotel's connection with the railroad. You can see the station, across the street from the hotel. Since 1915 Hotel Denver has been connected to the railroad for over a century. The hotel officially got its start in 1915, back when the bustling station was at the heart of Glenwood Springs.  Trains brought supplies, workers, and tourists into town, increasing the need for lodging. The Lobby We arrived on a Thursday. I was eager to get inside and see the newly renovated hotel. The sleek makeover was a nice surprise. Classier than expected.  It was hard to imagine how this lobby looked 75 or 100 years ago. I believe the white coffered ceilings are original. Past the lobby desk and up a few stairs, we found the snazzy 3-story atrium lounge.  The spacious area was lit by glitzy chandeliers and tall windows.  There were numerous cafe tables, which were handy for laptops, or drinks, or games. We saw some card players in the evening.  The 22-ft fireplace had a cozy set of leather couches, just perfect for lounging or reading. Wall Art I've seen a lot of art displayed in hotels, but I've never seen anything quite like this!  Luckily there was a staircase, so I didn't have to strain my neck to view the highest pieces.  I'm assuming the windows we saw near the art, once opened to an outside space, between 2 building. From what I can tell, the hotel today is a complicated combination of 3 historic buildings that take up the whole block. The evolution of Hotel Denver is confusing. Antiques I do love old things, so I was glad to see some antique pieces, along with the modern decor.  Was this wooden telephone booth actually used in the hotel at one time? Music There were some gorgeous old instruments that tempted me to play. The pump organ would have sounded pretty amazing in that grand space! I read up on the organ's history in a framed write-up. Purchased from Sears Roebuck, in 1908 for $29.95!
I didn't dare play the organ, or the baby grand. I just educated myself. The beautiful rosewood piano was built in 1885 in NY. It traveled down the Mississippi and Yellowstone Rivers to reach its first home, in Wyoming! Signs of the Past I was glad to see a few reminders of the old hotel. The "Wake Up Smiling" advertisement, was tucked up high on a shelf.
The red-block-letters were displayed more prominently on the painted brick wall. In 1930, the red words were on the hotel's exterior, above the entrance. Seats for Two Besides the seating in the lounge area, there were numerous options for 2 people to sit have a little chat. I love all the chair styles!
Along with the seating, there were wonderful pieces of art. Many had written descriptions and history. The Train A lot of the art and decor related to the old railroad days. The long skinny framed piece above the 2 blue chairs, was my absolute favorite.  I couldn't get a good photo of the entire train, due to glare. But the image of the engine shows the amazing mother-of-pearl! I wish I could purchase one of the 50 originals, for the original price. Fifty dollars! Room 343 After checking in we took the elevator to the third floor and traveled down a couple of halls, with some amusing level changes. (connecting buildings?) We passed a bright little sitting area and soon found ourselves at the east corner of the building.  We had booked our room so long ago, I wasn't sure what to expect when we opened the door to #343. For $210. at peak season in a tourist town, we couldn't complain.  Our room was immaculate and charming. It was also tiny, but the window brought in lots of light. View This would have been our view if I'd planned ahead and begged for a room on the front of the building.  The train station, the historic hot springs building and the old Hotel Colorado! All could be seen from another guest room, that we happened to pass when we walked down the hall! Comfy The bed and pillows were soft and comfy. The I loved the plaid headboard, cushioned bench and Pendleton blanket.  I was happily amused by the display of art, on a small portion of the accent wall! Love the Art! Our room was indeed small, but they didn't hold back with the artwork!  The trio of small pieces over the bed, pleased the shape lover side of me. I also liked what was within each frame!  The trio of hooks was pretty delightful. And the photographic art was nice. I never quite figured out the blue arrows and men, but I liked it.
The train image tied in well with the hotel's theme. Work & Play Wall Above the desk we had another piece of art. This one with birds.  The desk chair was comfy and we were happy to have a fridge and coffee maker and a TV! The dresser was hardly needed with our 1-night stay. Clean as a Whistle The bathroom was bright and fresh. I kept remarking about the fun of staying in a century old hotel, without the odors or issues that come with age.  Minutes after those remarks, I went wandering outside to see what the east side of the building looked like. I learned why our room felt so fresh. Red Brick I was impressed with the red and tan brick. I could spot our window on the third floor, overlooking the side street.  I'd read enough before, to know that our hotel was basically a mix of 3 buildings. All had been hotels at different times. I was excited to read the plaque on the side of the our corner building, that showed Hotel Rex on the corner. Rex Hotel! I studied the old hotel photo and read the words. I learned that Hotel Denver bought the Rex Hotel in 1991.  I also learned that In 2000, Rex Hotel was demolished! What!? So we weren't even staying in a an old building! This lovely building section was 24 years old. Rats. Hotel Denver in 1930 I got over that news quickly and became more intrigued by the trio of buildings. The image below is from 1930, when the Hotel Denver words were near the corner. Two years after this photo, Diamond Jack Alterie, shot 2 innocent salesmen at Hotel Denver. Things were wild during those Prohibition years.  Glenwood Springs was kind of rowdy before Prohibition. There were plenty of saloons, brothels and gambling halls. But with prohibition, speakeasies, bootleggers and gangsters added a different flavor. And so did Clark Gable when he came and spent a week at Hotel Denver, to do a little fishing in the 1930s. 1960s? I'm guessing from cars, that this postcard is from the sixties. You have to love the illuminated signs and the "columns" of glowing lightbulbs.  At some point the owners had a lightbulb moment and said, "This is too much work, changing these lightbulbs on the building." Bulb-Free in 2024 If you zoom in on my photo below, you can see all the tiny plus-signs, that plug up the spots where bulbs were once screwed in.  I just love this kind of fun trivia. Walkable Town One of the best parts of staying at the Maxwell Anderson, was being able to walk and explore so easily. Glenwood Springs is considered a uniquely walkable town. We never needed our car! Evening in Glenwood Springs After enjoying an evening wandering the colorful town, we needed food.  Seventh Street looked festive (and crooked!) as we crossed the bridge. Dinner at the Brewpub We ended up having dinner at Glenwood Canyon Brewpub, which was located in the center of our hotel.  The sidewalk tables were lovely, right across from the station and the menu looked good. Don was more than pleased with a flight of beers and a pulled pork sandwich.
My wedge salad was perfect. And to top it off, we had a fun conversation with a family seated nearby. We've never met any gangsters or bootleggers, dairying our 2 visits to Glenwood Springs. But we've chatted with some wonderful travelers, both times. Morning We had hoped to grab coffee and pastries in the morning and enjoy one of the picnic shelters.  But after night of rain, the world looked too soggy. Finding Coffee We headed down the hall from the lobby, in search of caffeine. We passed a wonderful bench, which was enjoyed long ago, by train travelers... I'm guessing across the street.
We traveled over different kinds of floors. My favorite... the colorful tile! And I paused to admire the old photos, hanging on an ancient looking brick wall. Wild Coffee Roasters We joined a line of sleepy-hungry customers and studied a case of pastries.  After eating our bagel and cinnamon rolls, we took our coffees and once again enjoyed the lobby and lounge. Coffee & Art Before checking out, we spent a little time enjoying the peaceful sitting areas. We examined our favorite pieces of art...
and tested chairs, just like Goldilocks. Don is not pictured in his favorite chair! What's Notable? We arrived with few expectations, so our stay was full of nice surprises! The remodeled interior was lovely and the staff was cheerful and welcoming.  It was a treat having lots of comfortable options for hanging out. If we'd been traveling with others, we would have been extra pleased. Having the brewpub and coffee house (and a gift shop) on the property was a big plus.
The location of our hotel was idea. There were numerous nearby shops and restaurants and we were able to park our car on a nearby street. If we'd had another day we could have enjoyed the hot springs and made better use of the natural beauty surrounding Glenwood Springs! Monarch... Boutique? During our Colorado road trip last July, Don and I spent 1 night at The Black Monarch Boutique Hotel. Interesting place. Interesting name.  The words Monarch and Boutique are somewhat misleading. I picture some proper traveling ladies with butterfly print skirts, checking into a fashionable little inn. But this hotel attracts a different crowd. And a black monarch isn't even a butterfly. It's a bird. Gentleman's Club in 1895 The Monarch Hotel (its original name) definitely was not a place for proper ladies, 129 years ago. Originally it was built as an exclusive Gentleman's Club. In 1899 it was rebuilt after a huge city fire and continued to serve the men of Victor, for many years.  The fine corner building once housed a saloon and casino and a brothel. So actually, I guess at least some women were allowed inside. Victor at its Peak The town at the foot of Pikes Peak, was at its peak back before the turn of the century. It was known as the City of Mines.  I've read there were around 18,0000 residents, during the gold mine era. Victor Today There are less than 400 residents today. Many of those still work in nearby mines.  When we arrived this past July, the town looked quiet. The buildings on Victor Boulevard looked just as they did when we visited 2 years earlier. In 2022, we stayed in the 5-story Victor Hotel, just a few buildings up from Black Monarch. Hard to believe this tiny town has 2 hotels! Victor in 2022 Two years ago, the little town was more lively when we visited. The annual Gem & Mineral Show was taking place.  While wandering 3rd Street that day, we spotted an unusual painting on the side of a building. Nikola Tesla seemed to be gazing down from the upper story of a brick building. Hotel with Ominous Theme The building with the mural, turned out to be The Black Monarch, which had recently been renovated. The interior had even more curious and eerie art.  We were able to peek in the hotel, after meeting a couple at a nearby coffee shop. Like us, they were retired folks who love to travel and stay in unusual hotels. They invited us to have a look inside. Jack the Ripper Room The couple took us up to the second floor, where 8 guest rooms awaited. Most had themes involving notorious serial killers. Our new friends were amused by their creepy room, which was named for Jack the Ripper. I'm guessing those were some of Jack's victims, in the displayed frames. Ugh.
The nearly black walls, made the space feel claustrophobic. The 15-foot ceiling offered enough space for an odd sort of bunkbed, built next to the brick wall. Guess you could have a slumber party. Pull out the Ouija boards! Ghoulish Displays Then we moved towards another hall, with more black and gray walls and a display case that held a mummy, a Frankenstein and a shrunken head.  At the opposite end of the hall, we spotted 2 oddly small knights, on either side of a door. The retiree couple insisted we pose for a photo, between the knights in armor.  The key was hanging outside the door which meant the room was not occupied. We 4 peeked inside and the room was huge! It was named for Nikola Tesla, instead of a murderer! I made a mental note. We'll stay in this room, if we ever come back! Black Monarch Hotel in 2024 We arrived at 4, on a Monday last July. I was excited that we'd booked the Nikola Tesla room. I was less excited about our host, who had yet to reach out about about check-in logistics. Oh the woes of contactless hotels.  The doors on the corner were locked. I peeked through some taped up glass windows. It looked like they were still in the midst of the same renovation we'd seen 2 years ago. The hotel's coffee shop to the left, was also closed. The hotel was dark and quiet, with lots of "stuff" cluttering the walk. Some looked more discarded than displayed. Vacant? Don and I have dealt with a lot of poorly run independent hotels, so I tried to be proactive. For days I attempted to reach our host through texts, emails and phone calls. I wanted to be sure our reservations were correct and that we were indeed down for the Tesla room.  Months earlier, I'd made my payment ($130. total) through Paypal, so I did at least have that receipt. But that receipt wasn't exactly a key that would get us in the door at that moment. Open Door I called the host's number again, but there was no answer. Luckily the door on the side of the building, (to the right of the HELP WANTED sign) was unlocked.  Don waited in the car and I stepped inside, to investigate. Creepy Hall The hall was dark! (my cellphone photo looks bright) The chipped floor tile and yellow wallpaper looked exactly as it had 2 years before.
After entering the hall I peeked through a door window into the "Ballroom" that was being renovated 2 years ago. I took the above photo in 2022 and I could detect little progress. It looked like the same "Pardon Our Mess" sign.  I headed for the stairs and was huffing by the time I reached the landing. (Victor has an elevation of nearly 10,000!) I paused halfway up, and found myself being stared at by a growling wolf. I don't recall seeing this taxidermy guy before. Noises I continued up, hoping my eyes would adjust. As I neared the communal kitchen, I heard some clatter. "Hello? Hello there?" I greeted like I was in a Nancy Drew book.
A man walked out of the kitchen, looking startled. I told him we had arrived to check in. It was suddenly clear that he was a guest. And luckily not a scary looking one. Which Room? The young man wasn't overly chatty, but he at least admitted he'd had the same frustrating issues reaching the host. He mentioned that he was staying in the Lizzy Borden Room. I told him we had booked the Tesla room.
The man pointed to the key hanging below the "3". I took a peek inside the room and didn't spot any suitcases belonging to strangers. I raced down to car to fetch Don. Quick! Move In! I should have been relieved to see our 612 sq ft room waiting for us. But it felt ominous. I still hadn't heard back from the host. All I had was the Paypal receipt. I felt like we were squatting by bringing our bags into the room to claim our space!  The dark room with coal gray walls and floors, felt a lot better when I pulled open the curtains, on all 7 windows.
But the light put more focus on the very worrisome bed making. Ugh. I had to do some major inspections and tidying. Haunted Evidently the Tesla Room is the most haunted of all the Monarch's guest rooms. Odd because it's the only room that doesn't focus on a horrific character. Tesla was known as an electrical genius, not a murderer.  Long before this dilapidated building was purchased in 2019, there were stories from locals. Many have spotted a woman looking out of a second floor window over the years. Which Window? I read later that it was our window in the corner, where the mystery woman was often spotted. We saw no signs of the Ghost Woman, unless she was the one who rumbled the limp gray comforters on the bed. A bit of a Poltergeist maybe?  I believe the building was vacant for decades, before it was purchased in recent years. I read that our host/owner (Adam Zimmerli) came upon the town of Victor over 5 years ago and fell in love with the charming buildings. Zimmerli eagerly purchased the empty Monarch Hotel, which had been the original name. He soon went to work renovating, to create a sort of Gothic "Horror Hotel".  The photo above shows our single window, above the corner door. I took this photo when we first arrived. Now I'm noticing the parted curtains. Was someone peeking out? Maybe she spotted us and trampled the beds on her way out the door! Scary? So what attracts guests to Black Monarch? I'm sure many guests come to this hotel because they find the macabre theme entertaining. Some just want the thrill of staying in a haunted hotel, with creepy decor.  I was less worried about ghosts than I was about the other guests. Who else would be staying? Who would be sharing our communal bathroom? None of the 8 guest rooms had their own. Just steps from our door, there was a room with 2 sinks and 2 mirrors. One shower stall and one toilet stall. Very cozy. The Black Bathroom I knew about the shared bathrooms when I booked. But when I booked last March, I was not in a weary travel mood. like I was on that July day.  But there was one more option. There was a traditional, full bathroom, down the hall. Nothing traditional about a black toilet or sink, but it fit the theme. The old tub (with black curtain) was original to the building. The little black bat images that decorated the bottom of the tub, were nice additions to the theme... less nice for those who forgot their glasses and thought they saw bugs in the tub! Inspection After calling and leaving a message that we had checked ourselves in, I finally heard back from our host. Whew, we could settle in and not be squatters. First I inspected the beds. Both passed inspection. I think the housekeeper was just in a hurry when she made them up.  Next, I gathered up all the gray shag pillows and beaded pillows and furry blankets and made a pile on the extra bed. No need for those. Exploring the Room Usually after checking into a hotel, I leave the room to wander and explore. But our room had so much going on, I had to stay put and explore.  I checked out the telescope first. The instrument was aimed towards the Sangre De Cristo Mountain Range.
Then I looked above the window and noticed the glass insulators, decorating the ledge. A clever addition to the electrical theme. I Love Windows I do love a good window and we had 7 of them. I loved opening them up for fresh air.  There wasn't much happening on the corner of 3rd and Victor, but the General Store on 3rd, was a happening place at 5 on a Monday. Half the town seemed to be getting off work (nearby mines) and stopping to pick up a little something. Tesla Stuff The hotel reopened about 5 years ago. Not that long ago, but it still felt a little worn in places. The "leather"couch had a rip in the center. The bed spreads looked weary. However, the Tesla theme was done well!  With 15-ft ceilings, there was lots of wall space to decorate.  I am not a science person and I know little about Nikola Tesla and I don't own a Tesla vehicle. But I was impressed with the collection of related curiosities. Below the Periodic Table of Elements, there were letters addressed to N. Tesla. One had a postmark of 1899!
It actually makes me really sad that we didn't get a chance to meet the owner, A. Zimmeli. I would love to know how he acquired these "shocking" photo images and how he chose to display the other curious things.  The photographic pieces were related to Tesla and electricity, but other stuff (like a boar's head) just added to the whacky decor. Tesla in Victor? The local lore claims that Tesla actually came to Victor and wired this hotel for electricity in 1899. He was living in nearby Colorado Springs at that time. We tried out the electricity by turning on the TV. "SPARKTV" Even that fit the theme!
I kept discovering smaller surprises in the room. Like the miniature bust of Tesla, displayed beneath a yellow bulb. Learning I actually took the mini Tesla figure out of his little display and moved him near my chair, so I could have a little education time.  I packed this book on Tesla, and dragged it all the way from Texas to enjoy in this room. I read aloud to Don for a while. I learned the fun fact that Baby Nikola was born at midnight, in the middle of an electrical storm. I hoped for a rainstorm that night. But no luck on that. Antlers Instead We didn't have storm excitement that night, but it was pretty exciting sleeping underneath so many antlers.  They seemed to be secured well. Other Critters There were other animals in the room.  This smiling gator-head was resting on the coffee table. Maybe he's the one that took a bite out of the couch. We also had little creatures, visible in the pressed tin on the walls.  I loved this repeated dragon image. We also spotted the same design on the stairway, near the landing.  When we headed down the stairs to head off for dinner, we got a good look at the wallpaper and pressed tin. I made sure to stop and pose with the wolf.  I honestly had no idea I was making such an insane face! Is that capturing my real mood. Dinner? We could find absolutely no dining options open on a Monday evening in Victor. We could have purchased some Kraft Dinner or canned chili at the general store and heated it up in the communal kitchen.  There was a nice large table beneath a skylight, that we could have used just steps from the kitchen. But we chose to drive to the next town. We ate at a casino in Cripple Creek! Good Night! We returned from Cripple Creek before 9. I stepped back outside to take a night photo of our funny hotel. The town was eerily quiet.  Around 10 pm, we heard the arrival of a new guest. No talking, just a little coughing. Who comes alone, to stay a night at The Black Monarch Hotel? I plugged in a large and noisy floor fan that helped me sleep through the night. Oscar the Fox Sunlight poured through the curtains around 6 am. I peeked out at the morning and had a fun surprise. A little fox with a white tipped tail, scampered down the center of Third Street.  I thought about making coffee in the community kitchen, but the lighting was so dim that I needed my cellphone flashlight. We dressed and headed out. The bakery was closed that morning, so headed over to the General Store for coffee. On the sidewalk we chatted with a sweet family who told us the fox we'd seen was named Oscar. He was actually a pet and belonged to a man in town. We packed up and left town in happy spirits. I love a little tidbit like that. What's Notable? The Black Monarch and the town of Victor are both intriguing and charming. So much potential, with these historic buildings in such a lovely setting.  I love that this hotel building was rescued and renovated by someone with enthusiasm and I'm guessing a sense of humor as well. A lot of creative thought went into designing these rooms. For a night it was fun to stay in a hotel with dark and creepy halls, yet stay in a room with a less freaky theme.
Sadly, I did feel disappointed. We tried to keep expectations low, because we know small, isolated communities struggle to find help and keep businesses afloat these days. But the lack of communication made our stay feel more like we were at a hostel than a Boutique Hotel. I so hope the owner can find some help or funds, to get this place running with enthusiasm again! Hotel Teatro in LoDo In July, Don and I spent 2 nights at Hotel Teatro, in the heart of Denver.  The renovated landmark building is located in the Lower Downtown District. (LoDo to some) Perfect Name for Our Reunion The hotel's name makes perfect sense. Teatro means Theatre and the hotel is convenient to Denver's Theatre District.  I'd also say the hotel's name was perfect for luring 3 old college buddies for a little reunion. Marla, Martha and I met nearly 5 decades ago, when attending Webster Theatre Conservatory in St. Louis. Built in 1911 Seems ridiculous to talk about the building, when the real focus of our stay was on a special reunion. But I do love to take in my surroundings!  I was so pleased that Marla and Martha (and all our hubbies) were game to gather inside this 113 year old building! The red brick with white terra-cotta exterior, hasn't changed much since 1911. Tramway Building The hotel wasn't always a hotel and it wasn't a theatre either. The 8-story building originally housed the headquarters of Denver's Tramway system. As in streetcars!  A 2-story "car barn" on the left was used for storing and servicing streetcars. I believe the 3-story building (between) held an auditorium, gym and barbershop. Today By the fifties, streetcars had been phased out. In 1956, the tower and car barn were sold to University of Colorado, for classrooms and offices.  In 1991, U-C moved out and the 2-story building was sold to Denver Center for Performing Arts. The tower was vacant for most of the 1990s, until it was eventually gutted and reopened as Hotel Teatro, in 1999. Arriving at 4 Don and I arrived at 4 and parked in a garage across the street, to avoid hefty valet fees. Crossing over to the building I noticed the ornate crown near the top floor.  I could also make out two decorative shields, with the letter "T" in each. I'm guessing that was for Tramway. Hey! It works for Teatro, too! Lobby The carefully restored lobby was fairly quiet, at 4:00 on a Friday.  I believe the lobby today, looks much like it did, when the building housed the Tramway headquarters. To the left of the elevators, we could peek into the hotel's Nickel Restaurant.
The beautiful mailbox was a reminder of the past. Also a good reminder to carry stamped postcards, so I can make use! The stairs in the Lobby's center, looked like an infinite mirror.  If I began to climb, it seemed like I might and never get to the top. To the right was a modern lobby desk, with a very friendly staff. Check in was speedy.
The mirrors across from the desk looked like gears, reflecting the gear mural behind the desk. Was there a gear theme? I love a theme. I later noticed this display on the lowest level of the building.  I meant to find out if these were pieces of equipment, from the Tramway days? I failed to ask. Room #812 After checking in, Don and I zipped up the elevator to our room. We were all due to meet up at 5!
The entrance to our room had a nice bench and mirror and wardrobe.  The King bed was comfy with good pillows and bedside tables and lamps.  The room was narrow, but no complaints. Our corner room, with tall windows made the room brighter.  Don was pleased with the couch, even if it was a tiny one. He knew I'd be deserting him at some point, so he was happy to have any kind of lounging space. Bathroom and View I always have to mention the bathroom even if there's nothing out of the ordinary. I was pleased to have a tub.
I always hope for a fun view, but we were too rushed to request one. Our windows mostly looked out over rooftops, but I could see a steeple and distant mountains. I've seen much worse! Fire Exit Our room was conveniently located at a quiet end of the hall, near a fire door. There was a bit of a terrace that I could step out on and take in the view.  I loved seeing the modern buildings nearby. I wonder how far one could see from this spot, 100 years ago? And I really appreciated being able to step away from the tower building just enough, to see the brick and terra-cotta, close up.  I believe that was our window, on the corner. 5:00 Social Hour Don and I freshened up just a bit and headed down the elevator at 5.  Teatro's Study Lounge was fairly hopping on a Friday evening. (Unlike this photo that I took earlier.) What a great space for a meet up.  At the far end of the lounge, we found a perfect corner for our group of 6. It was right across from the counter that served complimentary coffee in the morning. Complimentary wine and beer, from 5-6! No Photos No one was snapping photos when we 3 giddy gals squealed and gasped and greeted and hugged!  Here we are after we tamed down a bit. The 3 of us haven't been in one room together since 1979. The Hubbies Must thank these 3 guys, who graciously went along with our College Girl Reunion idea. They look somewhat serious sitting at their own little table, but they actually laughed and jabbered just fine... maybe at a lower volume.  While the guys talked about languages and travel... there was a lot of reminiscing and catching up around the other table... in loud and sometimes theatrical voices!  I didn't continue with theatre, but these 2 talented friends did. I can think of no better entertainment than listening to their stories. They have always made me laugh! The energy (and volume) was high! I'm afraid we scared away the folks at a nearby table. Dinner at the Nickel At 5:45 we walked to the other side of the hotel, to The Nickel.  We hardly had to skip a beat, or miss a moment of conversation. Floor to ceiling windows on one side of the restaurant.
Comfy bar stools on the other. (photos taken earlier) Allie Our server Allie, clicked with our group right away. She couldn't believe it, when Dave said where he was from in Minnesota. So was she! We were off to a fun start.  We ordered drinks and began to wonder about a vibration coming from our oval table. The close up of Don's drink, doesn't show the jiggling liquid.  We inquired and Allie apologized and offered to move us. She said it was some kind of old equipment located in the basement. We were mostly amused by the oddity. It ceased after a while.  Cheers! We made sure to toast to our gathering. We didn't make a toast to the pandemic, but we could have. It was during those isolate months when Marla and Martha and I began Zooming together... which led to talk of getting together in person! Whoops! I have no photo of me fumbling my wine glass and causing a spill. It had nothing to do with table vibrations. Marla was gracious she assured me I didn't ruin her clothes.  Allie was a gracious server and without saying a word, brought me a new glass of wine. I'm not sure I deserved that.  Allie also offered to take a photo of our happy bunch. She seemed to know exactly how to navigate our group. She chimed in now and then and shared a bit about herself when we asked. She always appeared just when we needed her. A+ for our enthusiastic server! Posing in the Study After dinner (and a little dessert sharing) Allie followed us right back into the Study, so we could pose for a photo in front of the fireplace.  We couldn't thank her enough for putting up with us. Allie told us more than once, how much she enjoyed serving us. For some reason her words seemed a lot more sincere than the typical "It was a pleasure serving you..." Nighttime at the Teatro It was around 9, when the hubbies were sent off to fend for themselves. The girls headed up to Martha's room and I was excited to peek out from her tiny 8th floor balcony. We spotted an almost-full moon.
I loved seeing some of the ornate decor up close, after observing it from the terrace earlier. I wonder what this skinny balcony was designed for, when it was the Tramway Building in 1911. Morning at Teatro The next morning, I was eager for coffee in the Study Lounge. We 3, had gabbed like slumber party girls until late the night before.
Once again, our gang met up and enjoyed the spacious Study, with coffee instead of wine.  Like the night before, we eventually migrated from The Study to The Nickel.  Beside a wall of stacked wood, we talked with about the same energy as the evening before. Good-Bye Webster Friends It was hard saying good-bye to our group after such a short visit, but I think we all felt equally grateful.  It's been 45 years since we 3 girls were last together at our Webster College Graduation. It could have been an odd or awkward get-together, especially with husbands who don't share college memories. But it all went incredibly well! Near Teatro Don and I are usually on the go after one night, but we added another night to our stay. We spent the afternoon wandering the LoDo district. It was nice to leave our car in the garage and explore on foot! It was a beautiful Saturday! Saturday Evening By 5:30 Don and I were back at The Study. We laughed at the young man who carded us when we ordered wine. He looked at both our birthdates and told us we were born on Tuesdays. He was right. We're still scratching our heads.
While some guests in the lobby played chess and Scrabble, we flipped through books (some odd ones!) from the shelf. We were waiting for our nephew to arrive. Yep! We had one more reunion. Andy Visit Andy arrived around 7! What a fun treat to see our nephew for a quick visit.  We were enjoying the exact same corner, getting caught up for a while, when who should surprise us at the table? It was Allie, calling us by name and offering us a complimentary Charcuterie Board! What?!? Another Dinner at The Nickel! We had a nice visit with Andy before his girlfriend Jess arrived, after a busy workday. It was a matter of minutes before we felt like we'd known Jess forever. We'd planned on heading off for dinner, but suddenly the Denver skies let loose. We avoided the storms and headed once again for dinner at The Nickel!  While rain gushed outside those enormous windows, we enjoyed a relaxed meal, once again served by Allie. I enjoyed my amazing grilled eggplant, with whipped goat cheese mousse, while thunder rumbled and conversation flowed. We lingered until 10:30 and Allie once again raved about serving us... the warm connection she felt. From any other server I would have thought that was just extreme. But she was an absolute delight and the feeling was totally mutual. Best server ever! Study Photo We said good night to Allie and moved towards the lobby door. I asked Andy and Jess if I could get a photo of the 2 of them.  Jess surprised me and walked up to a young woman near the fireplace. "Would you mind taking a family photo of us?" I couldn't have been happier to jump in there with Jess and Andy, for a Family Pic! What a great end to the evening. What's Notable? Hotel Teatro turned out to be so much more about the people, than the building. Often that's not the case.  We met up with some very special people at this hotel and we also were welcomed by a very gracious staff. That's a good combination! Also, the set up of the hotel's lounge and restaurant helped everything fall into place. Couldn't have been more pleased to spend 2 nights at Hotel Teatro! Cheers to the people who made our stay so memorable!
|
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
August 2026
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed