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#238 - The Victorian Inn, in Ferndale, CA

11/9/2019

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Storybook Hotel in a Storybook Village  

Don and I take turns finding hotels, when planning our road trips. 
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I wasn't thrilled when he said, "I booked the Victorian Inn, in Ferndale."

Ferndale sounded like some hick town in a sitcom. 

​The Victorian Inn, didn't sound like a very creative name. 


I figured this would be  yet another cutesy B & B, with lace and red velvet and lots of the owner's favorite knick knacks.
Then I looked on the website and saw the immaculate two-story hotel, with all its trim.

On Main Street Since 1890

It was hard to believe the hotel was nearly 130 years old. It almost looked like something created for Disney World's Main Street. 
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The solid structure, known as the Russ Building, originally housed the Ferndale Bank on the first floor. The second floor held single rooms, suites, water closets and fireplaces. The Stick Style Eastlake Victorian, was built of Redwood on a brick foundation. 


Decorated Bay Windows

The elaborate Italianate detail surrounding the windows, was stunning. 
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The hexagonal window was the most impressive. I found a photo from 1891, that showed a tower, extending up from that corner window. No cone shape above the window now, but still amazing!

Finding the Door

The double doors on the corner had a sign that sent us to a side entrance.
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We followed the iron, hitching post horses and found a door leading to an entry, between lobby and restaurant.
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In the entry, we found a friendly statue of a champion mule, named Loretta Jones. Loretta evidently once belonged to the current owner. I kind of liked her, with her festive leaf necklace. I greeted her every time we passed.

Lobby/Shop

We found the check-in desk in the back of Silva's Jewelry Store. That seemed odd at first, since it seemed like a grand hotel, should have a grand lobby.
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But it made more sense when I remembered this area had been a bank before it was a hotel. It made even more sense when I learned that the current owners were gemologists long before they were hotel owners. They fell in love with the old hotel years ago and made Ferndale their new home.

Second Floor

We checked in and carried our bags past my horse friend and up a stairway. The second story held about 15 rooms.
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A skylight brightened the dramatic landing with all its dark woodowork.

Hallway

I'm not sure what was behind the double doors at the end of the hall. 
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Maybe it was the fancy corner suite, with the fabulous bay window.

Room #210 - The Olivia  

Our room actually had 2 doors. The first was near the cuckoo clock. It had some elaborate woodwork around the transom, but no number and no door knob. 
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The next door was the entrance to our guest room... which had once been 2 rooms. When the second story was renovated, rooms were all expanded. Now, every other door opens to a room.

​Victorian Red

I had already peeked on the website to see our room, but I was still pleasantly surprised.
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The room was much larger and fresher and comfier than I expected.
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I'm all for authentic furniture, but it's a treat to have a luxurious king bed, instead of an antique standard. The red velvet couch was much more comfortable than it looked. The 14 foot ceilings removed any gloom, that an old hotel might offer.

Books or TV?

I had to laugh at the tiny TV on the cabinet across from the bed. I think they should have hidden that little modern reminder, inside the cabinet. 
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As always, I was delighted that we had two bedside tables with lamps. That's common in chain hotels, but not expected in historic ones. I'd rather read a book than watch a tiny TV. The hotel was very quiet, so I appreciated the floor fan, which had a nice hum for sleeping.  
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Two Bathroom Pics

I always keep bathroom expectations low in old hotels. But, we had a decent sized bathroom with a window that went practically from floor to ceiling.
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I liked the bathroom so much I had to take 2 photos. I especially liked the little pair of marble top tables... for our own stuff. It was nice having a tub and ample fluffy towels. If we'd needed a flashlight, there was one attached to the nightlight. If we'd needed a plunger (yikes) there was one nicely hidden inside a cloth bag, tied with a ribbon. Classy! No sarcasm there.

View

I do love windows and we had a few. It was nice having a view of the pretty town and sky, in the evening and morning.
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Best of all, the window let me study the intricate trim up close.  Were those Christmas lights, outlining the building? I should have stepped out after dark to have a peek.

After Dark


It was dark soon after we checked in. There might have been some dining options in the small town, but we checked out the hotel's cozy tavern.
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We sat at the old leather-top bar and took in the festive fall decor on the back bar. I was happy to see no fake cobwebs. We've stayed at too many old hotels in October and I get tired of that.

Cheers

Don and I celebrated with a Martini and Cosmo, made by our bartender named Brandy. We figured she gets enough comments about her perfect bartender name, so we talked about other things.
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I spotted a nearby couple drinking coffee and decided they must be the owners. The place wasn't busy, so I headed over to the table beneath the beautiful ships and inquired.  I was right, and Lowell said I made his day, when I raved about the hotel.

VI Restaurant

We watched a few people come and go through the doorway to the Dining Room. "VI" was the name of the restaurant. It took me a while to realize those weren't Roman numerals, but initials.
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There was a cozy area around a fireplace and a large space filled with dining tables. But we decided to stay put in the tavern.

Baby Spinach and Sliders

​Our meal was just right. My salad had squash, strawberries, walnuts, raspberry vinaigrette and Humboldt Fog cheese. Brandy had to explain that Humboldt was the county we were in... which gets a lot of ocean fog.
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Don had pulled pork sliders. He happens to love pickles, so he was extra impressed. I loved the green apple coleslaw.

Morning

Before bed, we helped ourselves to coffee in the second floor sitting area. Decaf options meant I slept well in our luxurious bed, with humming fan.
In the morning, we got up early and walked around the charming town... or should I call it a village? There are over 200 Victorian buildings and a cemetery that climbs up a steep hill, on the edge of town. It was the perfect morning walk.

Breakfast

Breakfast was included with our stay, so took a window seat in the VI Restaurant. What huge windows!
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Our eggs, bacon and potatoes were served by a sweet young "Texan" named Katie. We were delighted to share some Texas stories, mostly about her hometown of Bastrop. She had gone to school with our favorite young, talented blues musicians, The Peterson Brothers.  Oh how I love surprise conversations when we're traveling. I wish she could have pulled up a chair.

What's Notable?

Our stay at The Victorian was a package deal. I feel like we experienced the hotel and town, all together. The combination was just lovely, but it was it too perfect? I wondered, "What's the catch?"
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During our morning walk, I kept an eye out for flaws. However, I didn't spot any tacky t-shirt shops or glitzy, ritzy, overpriced gift shops. I saw locals greeting one another on the sidewalk. I saw a resident or two in their yards. I even saw the pharmacist from Rexall Drugs, strolling down the walk with a mug of coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other. He said "Good Morning!" with a big smile. 

Okay, this hotel and town made me happy. I think we need to move!

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#237 - Ashland Springs Hotel

11/7/2019

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Since 1925 in Southern Oregon
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Recently, Don and I had our first visit to Ashland and its historic hotel in the heart of downtown. The hotel is now Ashland Springs, but you can see the letters on the glass above the marquee. In 1925 was called Lithia Hotel.
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When we pulled up, this past October, the entrance to the old hotel was pretty grand, with golden eagles and bold marquee. 
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94 years ago when the luxury hotel opened, there were 100 guest rooms. Travelers heading back and forth, between the Northwest and California, enjoyed stays at the hotel. 
They also enjoyed the therapeutic Lithia Spring Waters of Ashland.
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Lithia Springs Hotel

At nine stories, the Lithia Hotel was the tallest building between Portland and San Francisco.
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By the late 1930's, hotel guests could also enjoy the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, which is what the city is mainly known for today. By 1960 the hotel changed hands and tied into the Shakespeare theme, with a British Tudor appearance. I can't even picture that. 

When we pulled up, the hotel still seemed tall, standing on the corner, in Ashland's charming downtown.  ​
It looked like a big city hotel, minus the traffic and valet parking headaches. We headed around to the back, where we found ample free parking for guests.

You don't get free parking in big cities.​

F
rom the Back

From where we parked, the back of the building looked very dramatic in the afternoon sun. Not many hotels have such impressive backsides!
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I grabbed my suitcase and took a peek over a fence, where I spotted a lovely courtyard, below. I read later, that the garden area once held a swimming pool, that was added in 1960, when the hotel became the Marc Antony... with its British theme.  

2-Story Lobby

It was about 3 when we headed into the sun-filled lobby.  
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While Don checked in, I took advantage of the quiet space and snapped photos.
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I'm glad the owners who bought 20 years ago, did away with the British theme. There was still a formality, with the  stained glass and the chandelier, but it felt relaxed.

Comfy Touches

There were lots of little things that made the lobby feel more homey. 
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The fireplace was cozy and there were some pieces of furniture and decor that added some fun. My favorite piece was the oval, marble top table in the center of the lobby. I kind of liked the oddly shaped pumpkin and the purple arrangement, too!

Nature Theme

The British theme left years ago, but a new focus took over. I think the current Nature theme, is tied to the old hotel's connection with nature and the healing Lithia Springs waters.
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There were little "wonders of nature!" everywhere you looked. There was a bold looking eagle on the front desk and nature prints on the wall. There was a whole case of bird eggs, nests and a stuffed bird.

Riding Up

The elevator even offered a nature lesson as we traveled upward.
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I had a good time studying the elevator walls, which were covered with dried leaves and plants. That's a first!

Our Room

I didn't get a photo of our door, which I often do. But I did capture an image of the curious thing, mounted on our door. I thought it was a brass door knocker, until I saw another door with a note clamped down, by the tiny hand. How handy! Another first!
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Our room was cute as can be. It wasn't huge, but it was probably larger than the original rooms. Lithia Springs Hotel opened with 100 rooms in 1923. Now there are 70.

Lamps and Prints

The nature theme continued on our wall, with pretty framed herb art. I appreciated having 2 tables and 2 lamps in our tiny room.
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I liked the soft colors and the French style bed cover. There was a surprise up by the pillows.
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The gift was a little cloth pouch tied with ribbon. The note said it was "Lavender Bath Tea" and it smelled heavenly. It was made for hanging in the shower, or putting in a drawer. Much nicer and healthier than a pillow chocolate.

Cozy Corners

The rooms were small and every corner was put to use. The corner with the chair and lamp was so squished, it was sort of amusing. But I liked the nature themed lampshade and the view beyond the buildings was pretty.
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The small bathroom had been remodeled with newer pedestal sink and corner shower. The original floor tile was nice.

Tea Time

After checking out our room, Don and I made a dash up to the Mezzanine to enjoy the complimentary tea time.
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There wasn't too much going on, but we were happy to serve ourselves some tea and grab a cookie. We chose a table overlooking the lobby and did a little people watching. 

Enjoying the Town

We may have missed Ashland's Shakespeare Festival season, (by one day) but we were just in time to see gorgeous fall colors!
Walking through Lithia Park in the late afternoon sun, was heavenly. Tasting the bubbling mineral water from the public fountains was not heavenly! It was stinky and foamy. Honestly, I almost threw up from laughing and gagging at the same time! 

Evening

We peeked in the hotel's restaurant earlier. The multi-layered space was inviting.
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The tables with cozy wicker and pillows, seemed very appealing.
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But Don and I kept it simple by sitting at the bar. We ordered martinis and a scrumptious artisan cheese board. Our kind bartender gave us lots of extra bread, when I raved about it!

Morning

I stepped out early to check on the morning. I often do that to try to snap a hotel photo, free of cars and people.
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There were no cars, but there was a truck. It was October and they seemed to be putting up Christmas lights already! I also noticed something I hadn't, the day before. Look at the sweet water fountain for pups. Yikes I hope it's not that bubbly stuff!

Breakfast

A complimentary breakfast was served upstairs and all the hotel guests seemed to arrive at the same time. Don and I were amused to see the room filled with people, all our age or older.
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The crowded room had one table left and it had a sweet pumpkin and nice view. But we decided we needed to get away from all those old people... who kept reminding us of ourselves. We found a quiet sitting area, near the garden patio.
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It was a bit too chilly for sitting outside, but we enjoyed the view through the glass. It was a lovely place to relax, before getting back on the road.

What's Notable?

Our hotel stay was filled with lots of classy touches, without a huge price tag.
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They did a nice job renovating this lovely hotel in recent years.

I imagine during summer months (or Shakespeare months) this hotel and town might feel very different. 
But I will always remember the peaceful feel of our hotel (except at busy breakfast) and the ease of strolling in and out, to explore the park and town. 


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#236 - Timberline Lodge in Mount Hood

11/3/2019

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More Snowy Than Scary at This Oregon Lodge

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There was nothing spooky about the big lodge when we approached this past October. 
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We didn't see Jack Nicholson, grinning out any windows. We didn't see Shelley Duvall or Danny, escaping through the snow.  
The icy parking lot was kind of scary though. We weren't expecting snow in October.

Two Years Ago 

I remember approaching the lodge 2 years ago, when we stopped for lunch on a trip. I was so excited to see the building that was depicted in exterior scenes, of the thriller, The Shining.
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It was cool and sunny that day, but there was no snow. It was a little hard to imagine those frightening scenes that took place outside The Grand Overlook Hotel. 

​October 2019
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There was snow when we visited last month, but it was still too sunny, to be eerie.
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We were at nearly 6,000 feet and it was in the thirties. The wind was whipping at our faces and the flags up on the viewing deck were flapping away.
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The sun was working on the icicles and the wind was doing a job on the 750-pound "snow goose" weathervane! 

Entrance to the Head House

I grinned as we climbed the steps to the iconic stone entrance. It wasn't really the movie connection that I was excited about. To me, it's the lodge's connection with WPA that made the place exceptional! There was so much to see.
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The carved panel in the huge door was just one artistic contribution made by hundreds of artisans, involved in the construction of Timberline. I couldn't wait to take it all in.

Starting at the Bottom

We checked in at the desk, on the lower level, then had a look at some of the displays about the hotel's construction period, from 1936 to 1938.
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80 years ago, skiers must have been pretty excited when the grand lodge opened. They would have lounged on these "snowshoe chairs" in front of the fires. The curling andirons were impressive... made from recycled railroad rails! 
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The hexagonal fireplace continued up through 2 more levels. The "first floor" had  ample sitting space around the fireplaces and near the windows. The upper floor had dining and bar tables, near the Ram's Head Bar.

Lunch With View

On our summer visit, Don and I had lunch on the circular balcony near the bar. We had a stunning view of Mount Hood, with just enough snow for some August snowboarders.
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Mount Hood In October
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This time, we stepped out the back door and I posed very quickly for a photo with a much whiter, Mount Hood. I look pretty relaxed here, but I was gritting my teeth and telling Don to hurry. It was freezing!

​Exploring

Our room wasn't quite ready, so we did some wandering before settling in. 
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We checked out some of the murals and mosaics that were created by artisans over 80 years ago.

Doors and Windows

It's amazing to look at the completed hotel and to realize this was all created during the Great Depression. Hundreds of skilled and unskilled laborers, craftsmen and artists worked for nearly 2 years.
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On our first visit, I made Don pose so I could show the amazing size of this door. This time, I studied the ironwork. The door knocker looked like something out of a haunted fairytale.
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Some of the whimsical door and window shapes just made me smile. Don and I  remembered the cute, pointy door from before. We were sad the little tavern was not open this time.

Recycled

Not only did the lodge project provide jobs, but it made use of recycled materials.
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These wonderful carved newel posts (new term for me) were made from discarded utility poles. There were 19 different ones in the hotel and all of them had been smoothed and shined by appreciative guests. Just how many hands in 80 years?

Barlow Room

We didn't make good enough use of the Barlow Room, but it was one of my favorites.
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This room made me feel like I was stepping right into the movie, Sun Valley Serenade. I wanted to wear a cute little Sonja Henie sweater outfit and play some pingpong... on the wooden table!

Details 

We didn't hang out and play games, but I was happy just studying the sweet details that surrounded me.
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The linoleum mural panels had a dreamlike quality. They gave me the same feeling I get, when I pick up an old worn, but loved family Christmas ornament.
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Even the patchwork curtains hanging near the door seemed sort of calming, with their faded colors.

So many of the fabrics in the hotel were handwoven or stitched.

I'm not sure what has been replaced and repaired over the years. But if I can't tell what's old and what's been replaced, then they're doing a remarkable job.

Room 116

Our room was down a hall, with cozy paneling and another marvelously shaped door at the end.
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We even had a wooden Privacy sign. Much better than those plastic things.

Tricky Hardware
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We had 3 doors, including the closet and bathroom. All had intriguing locks and handles.

Cozy Space
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Our little room had lots of cozy wood and a cute retro phone. The window faced the front, so no view of Mount Hood for us.
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There was a sweet little desk if we needed to write letters. There was indeed stationary in the desk, next to an ice scraper for the car! We didn't end up needing that or the tiny (sinfully out of place) TV. 

Clean and Comfy

The queen bed was surprisingly comfy. I liked the wool blanket accent. 
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The bathroom wasn't huge, but the pretty tile was spotless and the towels were thick and soft.

View of Mount Jefferson

​Our room view would have been a little better if we'd been on the floor above. 
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We could see Mount Jefferson from our room, so I'll say that counts as a view! These photos I have to say, were not taken from our room.
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The best view of Mount Jefferson was from the stone terrace on the second floor. I checked on the view a few times in the evening and morning.
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It was a little too chilly for more than picture taking. But it was fun seeing the flags. Evidently, the flags represent the countries of the international staff.

​Where to Sit?

In the evening, Don and I wandered a bit, in search of cozy seating. We passed on the chairs, with woven rawhide seats.
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There were a number of cute little nooks with couches or writing tables. 

By the Fire

Seats by the fire were in demand, but there were 3 fires burning, so we lucked out. 
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I didn't get a photo of the fire tender and his cart of wood and tools. It's practically a full time job keeping the fires going.

People Watching

For a while Don and I sipped wine and enjoyed a few snacks, while watching people coming and going. 
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These interesting chairs had built in side tables, which were pretty handy!

Morning at Timberline

Morning came early, since we had some kind of pacing, floor-walker above us from 5 am on. (Another good reason to book an upper room) But I was happy to get up at dawn and explore a little.
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Long before 7, there was a table set up for coffee, tea and hot chocolate. The fires were burning and a few little girls dressed in p.j.s were having a wonderful time with their Teddy Bears.  

Heidi

I was pleased to meet 3-year-old Heidi. who posed with me briefly. 
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Heidi was lounging behind the front desk when I first spotted her. The young man working the desk said he remembered when she first came to the lodge 3 years ago. "She was as big as her head is now. She stepped out into the snow and disappeared!"

Breakfast in the Cascade Dining Room

Heidi wasn't allowed in the dining room, but Don and I headed in happily. 
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We had forgotten that we had booked a room & breakfast package. It was a nice surprise.
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We didn't sit next to the fire, because there wasn't one. We were told the winds were blowing in the wrong direction and it would be too smoky if a fire was lit. We did have a great table by the window, though. More views of Mount Jefferson!

Buffet-Time

Sometimes breakfast buffets are a disappointment, but we had some fun options.
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The Glacier Freeze Smoothie was an exciting way to start the day. The tricky salami slicer was a little scary for me! We ate well, then enjoyed a late check out and more fireplace lounging!

What's Notable?

Don and I have stayed at many state and national park lodges. This one ranks pretty high for coziness... which is what attracts us to lodges.
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Besides being warm and cozy with all its stone and timber, the lodge staff was also warm and welcoming. I'm still unclear about the ownership of Timberline, but it felt like things were run well.

Mostly, I will remember the views and the amazing WPA creations that filled the lodge. I have a feeling we will be back! 
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#235 - Swiss Hotel in Sonoma, CA

11/3/2019

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On the Plaza, in Sonoma

I remember spotting the Swiss Hotel a couple years ago. It was right across from the historic Plaza in Sonoma. 
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Maybe I was just hungry, but something about the sign made me think of a Swiss chocolate candy bar! 

Porch Dining

Or maybe the folks dining at the cafe tables on the porch, made me hungry.
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I chatted with a friendly gentleman and his pup. The place seemed very inviting.

Garden Patio

On that pretty fall day 2 years ago, Don and I were lured in for lunch.
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There were two entrances. We went through the doors, with martini silhouettes, under the windows. We eventually found the lovely garden patio and feasted on pulled pork sandwiches and spinach salads!

Again

This past October, Don and I returned to the Swiss Hotel. 
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This time we had reservations for one of the 5 rooms. I was excited to spend a night in the building that had been home to Don Salvadore Vallejo, in the mid 1800's.

From Home to Hotel

The words on the sign stated, " Swiss Hotel Since 1909", but the Vallejo home became a stagecoach stop and hotel, long before that. 
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The hotel had at least a couple names, but it was called "Swiss Hotel" by the time the Masstelotto family bought it in 1923. The 4th generation is running it today.

Check In

Jenny checked us in at 3. She was very helpful, giving us hints on everything from wineries to parking. 
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Jenny let us know where the continental breakfast would be served. She said there were trays available if we wanted to enjoy eating on the veranda. She was very cheery, yet professional. I wondered if she was family.

​Lobby

While Don finished up, I peeked around the lobby at old photos. There was a lone dining table in the front window, near an antique phone and clock. 
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There was a cute little sitting area near the doorway to the dining room. I remembered from before, seeing that curious, square window/door between rooms.

​Dining Room

I also took a look in the dining room, which looked welcoming with white cloths and roses. 
While looking at some of the old photos, I was approached by Dawn, who was delighted that I was impressed with the history. She also graciously handed me a fancy little flashlight. "Just in case." She told me, without a hint of worry to her voice. She explained that there was a chance Pacific, Gas & Electric  would be turning off power in the night. Fire concerns... yikes.

​Up to Room 2

We headed for the hall where I spotted more photo covered walls... and an antique phone booth. I love phone booths.
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At the top of the steep stairway, I spotted a door that led to the veranda. Later!
Our room was in the opposite direction. We passed through a doorway which took us to another hall.
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Was this a newer wing that had been added onto the back? Rats. I always prefer staying in the oldest part. But I was pleased, when we turned the key and walked into our own little entry, with 3 doorways.

Homey Suite

Our 3-room suite with its convenient vanity and contemporary art, felt more 1980's than early 1900's. But the space felt cozy-retro with angled ceilings and slanted floors.
The sitting room was a nice surprise with windows overlooking the garden patio. It was charming in a simple down home, grandma's guest room way. I loved the grapevines that were trying to grow in the bedroom window!

​Chat at the Bar

The bar was occupied by all locals when we arrived at 5. After a couple of days in touristy Napa and Sonoma, it was fun to be surrounded by people who knew one another, but were open to outsiders like us.
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Don and our bartender talked World Series for a while. When I asked friendly guy (so wish I remembered his name) where he was from, he pointed to a photo on the wall of his mom. He said he grew up in Sonoma and his mom worked at the bar. He had good memories of coming over after school for burgers.

Ghastly Photos and Ghostly Occupants

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A couple at one of the tables asked if we were staying at the hotel. The woman offered to take our picture. My creepy (drunken) expression does not match my pleasant, relaxed memory.
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After taking our photo, the woman asked if we were staying in Room 5, which is evidently the most haunted. She said she'd had a friendly ghost encounter in the restroom once. "Some think the ghost is Freddy." She said as she pointed to a photo of Freddy the cook, in 1945.

Cozy Bar Vibe

On the wall, I spotted a photo of the old bar and compared it to one I took 2 years ago. It looks like little has changed in 4 generations. 
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I was so delighted that the small gathering of folks made us feel at home. Sometimes Don and I feel intrusive, when we sit at a bar with regulars. 

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Regulars and Celebrities

I had a good time checking out some of the people photos that covered the walls. There were quite a few famous faces, like President Kennedy. Not sure how may actually visited the bar.
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My favorite photos were of the local celebrities. There were images of townspeople in aprons, in overalls... by a barber pole. I would love to know the stories behind these people!

More Faces!

Above the double doors, there were more faces smiling down!
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Don and I walked under those faces and took a peek through those doors to check for open tables. The cafe tables near the sidewalk were all full.


​To the Veranda

So we headed to the porch upstairs, with it's long planks of redwood. Were those actual holes, patched with metal?
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The wind was beginning to pick up, as the sun lowered. ​There was an eerie feel in the air. We had heard from people in the bar that the schools had decided to close, in anticipation of the power outage.
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I was still a little confused about how this was going to help prevent the spread of the fires. We sat there on the porch, wondering... and remembering our lunch at the Swiss Hotel 2 years ago. The devastating fires of 2017, started up as soon as we returned home to Texas.

Dinnertime

By the time we headed back down to the sidewalk tables, it was dark. The tables were still full, but it was entertaining hearing all the local chatter. 
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The diners all seemed to know each other, with lots of talk between tables. One woman owned a nearby winery. Some talked about worries over the power outage.  

A table opened within minutes and we sat at the quieter end of the porch. A nearby couple recommended the #2 Pizza, which was incredible. They shared their memories of the devastating fires 2 years ago and all the worries and complications. I knew that every person around us had stories.

Glariffe!
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We were stuffed after our pizza, but determined to try the signature coffee-cocktail of Swiss Hotel.

Glariffe, supposedly has some connection to Ernest Hemingway, but I don't know what. The frosty chilled sort of Irish coffee drink has a recipe so guarded that the recipe is kept in a safe deposit box. We heard that Starbucks wanted to the recipe and they were turned down. ??
We just got one and shared it like we were at the malt shop! It was smaller than we expected for $12. but plenty potent. Yum!

Morning

We headed up for bed, wondering if we would need our flashlight at some point. Our phones were charged and we were checking out in the morning. So no real worries.
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I woke after midnight when our room suddenly got quiet. The clock was no longer glowing. In the early morning I used the flashlight/lantern to get dressed and tiptoed downstairs. There were actually candles lighting the hallway and one, flickering inside the phone booth.

All Well So Far

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I wandered around the Plaza and all was quiet. When I returned Dawn was busy getting the continental breakfast ready. She apologized that she couldn't make coffee. ​
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Don and I skipped showers and checked out early, to get on the road before traffic got worse. Cars were already backed up at non-functioning traffic lights. We felt lucky that the power glitch had only slightly inconvenienced us. 

What's Notable?

Fire concerns will always be a part of our Swiss Hotel memories. It wasn't long after we left Sonoma that the Kincaid Fire began spreading and destroying hundreds of homes and buildings. 
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Now that the fire is 100% contained, I can feel relief to know the town and our sweet hotel is safe... and focus on the good memories of our visit!

Mostly I'll remember the homey feel of our historic hotel, bar and restaurant. Our hosts and servers were all gracious and welcoming, despite the worries they may have had. The locals were also friendly and entertaining. The building itself was charming with all its history and the location was hard to beat! 
​Hope to return!


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#234 - Dr. Wilkinson's in Calistoga

11/2/2019

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The Doc's California Resort!
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Over 10 years ago, I spotted Dr. Wilkinson's Lodge, when our family visited Calistoga for a wedding. We were staying elsewhere, but I remember the sign well. There was something amusing and wonderful about the glowing sign, announcing Mud Baths and Mineral Pools!

Seeing the name of a doctor on the very top, made me very curious.

​This past October we booked 3 rooms!

Sweet Town

Our recent visit to Calistoga was part of a reunion with our kids and spouses. I was happy that "The Kids" were game to give Dr. W's a try!
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The cute town was laid back and comfortable and more reasonably priced, than the towns of Napa or Sonoma. I doubt they have Harvest Hoedown BBQ celebrations in those wine country towns.

Arrival Time
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​It was around 6, when we headed into the modern looking building, covered in vines. Our group of 6 filled up the little lobby.
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I studied the old photos on the lobby walls and asked a few questions.

Since 1952

The gracious woman who checked us in, had been working at the hotel for 20 years. 
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She pointed out an old black and white photo and shared a little history about Doc and Edy Wilkinson, who opened the resort in 1952. She said the Wilkinson's son and daughter just recently sold the resort. 
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I was sorry we missed the chance to actually meet members of the original family.  I wonder how old the W. Kids were in 1962, when the lodge was spiffed up, with a second level. The vintage photo looks similar to my photo... minus the towering sign and palms.

Off to the Rooms

We were given our keys and headed through the courtyard to the stairs.
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The courtyard was a pretty handy gathering place. The next morning we sat at the tables and studied our phones, discussing strategies for caravanning to wineries.

Motel Memories

Our 3 rooms were on the upper level. Don and I rolled our bags towards Room 34. I felt like I should be lugging the red, youth-sized American Tourister suitcase I owned as a child. ​
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I would have really fit the scene, had I been toting my mom's old marbled-beige, Samsonite cosmetic case. I remember lots of motels like this from when I was a kid, but I remember no suitcases with wheels! 

Room 34

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Above the number on our door, I spotted this little bathing image. Gotta love it!

Would that be mud in the bathtub?

Probably.

Bargain in Napa Valley

Our room was not the most deluxe or updated, but it's what I asked for. 
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For less than $150. we had a room within walking distance of wineries and restaurants, in a charming Napa Valley town. 
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I have no pics of the kids' rooms, but they were slightly more renovated. However, the youngins didn't have the awesome exposed brick that we had. Our host tried to put us in a room with less worn carpet and hidden brick, but Don and I always go for the vintage. 

No Tub 'O Mud
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Our bathroom was far from luxurious, but we did have bathrobes and a coffee maker and a wine opener. (wise) There was no tub for soaking... in mud or water.

Hot Springs!

Besides the location, our group was excited about enjoying what Wilkinson's is known for. Nearly 7 decades ago, Doc and Edy started making good use of the area's geothermal hot spring waters and the ancient volcanic ash. 
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The signs gave us some ideas about options... mud, steam, mineral, massage, therapy, baths and COLONICS! Yikes. 

Soak Time

Most in our group were up for about anything on the sign, besides the colon treatment. A mud bath experience would have been a highlight for me, but our time was limited.  We decided to all head for the mineral pools, which was included in our stay.
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There were 2 outdoor pools, which looked a tiny bit less inviting in person.  Just a bit worn.

Following the Rules

We headed for the indoor pool and had it mostly to ourselves. We could have misbehaved with some singing, or comical water ballet...
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However, the wall of rules was a bit intimidating. Some of the info was reassuring, though. There were phone numbers for the ambulance and the pool operator. We had a choice of 2 physicians that we could call. Luckily, no mishaps.
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Evening

The weather was lovely in the evening. It was such a treat walking out the door and heading down a couple blocks to dinner.
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No driving and no parking. We dined outside near the river, with live music. Then we strolled on back to our lil motel. So easy.

Morning
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I woke early to trash trucks the next day. So, took advantage and headed down the staircase for a little run. I even jogged over to Indian Springs Lodge where we stayed 10+ years ago.
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It looked peaceful at the old Spa Resort, but I'm not convinced it looked 3 times as good as our quirky little place.  Maybe next time we'll splurge and stay there.

Bye Dr. W

I made it back in time to join the others for breakfast at a nearby diner.   
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Then we said good-bye to our Hot Springs Motel with its fabulous sign. We were off to the wineries.

What's Notable?

I'm glad we stayed. 
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The location and price was perfect for our 1-night stay in Napa Valley. 

I love it that we got a little combo, of mid-century motel and historic hot springs resort.

I love it that we stayed before the new owners make big changes and raise rates.

What a hoot that we enjoyed a dip in the mineral pool, relaxing and chatting with the kids and reading the rules...
And what a treat that the old sign still glows at night! Next time... Mud Baths!
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# 233 - Maplewood Hotel in Saugatuck, MI

8/23/2019

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​Sweet Hotel in a Sweet Town

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Last July, Don and I finished up a little Michigan road tripping, in the town of Saugatuck. 

The charming town, on the banks of the Kalamazoo River, has been attracting summer guests since the late 1800's. I searched the internet and found a place that once catered to those early tourists and I booked two nights.  

Built in 1860's

We pulled up on a late Wednesday afternoon, in July. The place looked even more intriguing than the internet photos!
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I'm not sure what this building was when it first opened, but in the 1870's, it housed a furniture store.

​I really can't imagine furniture stores, that long ago.

The owner of the furniture store, ended up expanding and transforming the place into a summer resort/boarding house.

I'm guessing his old business, furnished the hotel nicely!

A New Greek Revival Look

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In 1923 a new owner took over and made the hotel even grander. George W. Maher was brought in to help with a new look.
Maher, was a renowned architect, known for blending traditional styles with Prairie School styles. My knowledge is limited, but it's hard for me to see the European Arts and Crafts influence. I think the original building was Colonial and the Greek Columns were added. 

My curiosity as always, led me to the internet. I couldn't find any images of the original design, but I learned more about Mr. Maher and his amazing career.
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Sadly he died in nearby Douglas, just a few years after the renovation. Seems like every time I do a little research I find a sad story. Maher evidently took his own life, due to struggles with health.

Back to Our Visit!

We arrived around 6:00 and grabbed a parking space right on the street! I was extra excited because our 2-day stay was going to be shared with my sister and sister-in-law! I kept fingers crossed as we headed in. I hoped Jennifer and Kate would be okay with our hotel pick.
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As soon as we opened the door, I was relieved. It felt like we'd stepped into a cozy home. There was a set of stairs straight ahead and a wood paneled living room to the left.
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To the right was a reception desk and another sitting area. So far so good!

​Down the Hall
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Jennifer and Kate texted us from their room. "We've been upgraded! We have a fireplace and two bath tubs!"

We checked in and found out that we had also been upgraded. That meant no stair climbing, with our bags.  

We headed down the hall, admiring all the antique goodies.

Lots of Carved Wood
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I'm sure there were some good stories behind these fine pieces, especially the one with the curious carving of The Last Supper. Maybe these were in the original furniture store. Who knows?

Tiny Knocker
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Our guest room door had a brass knocker. That's different. My photo does not show just how teeny tiny that door knocker was. Maybe it was just a tricky way to hide the peep hole. Or just a fancy way to show the room number.

But, even with my reading glasses, I could barely make out the number, engraved into that brass.  

​More on that tiny knocker, later.

Room 101
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Our room was lovely. There was no musty smell, which should almost be expected, with a hotel that is a century and a half old!
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Maybe we were staying in a newer part. I hope not, since I usually ask for the most historic rooms. But the room was comfortable and classy, with antiques and fireplace.
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The Tiffany style lamp certainly fit the era. There were a few framed prints, that I wouldn't have minded owning!

Ahhh for the Bathroom!
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Even some of the very nicest historic hotels, have cramped bathrooms. I could have lived in this spacious and luxurious room! 
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The separate shower was large, the separate sinks were a bonus and the tub (with complimentary bath salts) was heavenly. I've never used a tub with a built in step!

Exploring Time!
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After checking out the room, I wandered a bit. I found the back stairs near the breakfast room.
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I took a trip up the stairs to the second floor and peeked in a few open doors... before coming down the stairs in front. The upper rooms that I saw were nice, with good views. But, it was a treat not having to hike up and down, during our 2-day stay.

Breakfast
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The glassed in porch was set up for the daily complimentary breakfast. The next morning, Kate and Jennifer grabbed us a perfect table, at 8 am. 

We had a nice view of the nearby park, while we sipped our coffee in flowered cups. Well, half of us chose the dainty ones, with saucers. I like having a cup or mug choice. 
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At the dresser, we helped ourselves to fruit, salads, olives and breads. Then our blueberry French toast and bacon arrived! (The next day was quiche)
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As we lingered over coffee, a woman wandered in and we began to chat. She turned out to be the owner, Catherine Simon. She relaxed against a table and entertained us with her dry wit for a while. Pretty fun hearing about her nearly 30 years running the hotel... the fun of hosting her own family reunions... Kate told her she was the kind of relative everyone wants! Catherine answered, "You've got that right!"

​Enjoying the Shared Space

In the back of the hotel, we found more sitting areas. There were wine glasses available and some fresh cookies. There was a player piano, that we didn't use and a TV that luckily wasn't on. 
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The first night, we chatted near the wood burning fireplace... which would be nice in winter. It felt like we were in our own home, hanging out. Except that we had to hush our voices occasionally, since rooms were nearby. 

Lounging Near the Pool
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The second evening, the air was balmy and we sat out on the lounge chairs near the pool. At one point, I headed inside with my plastic cup to get some wine from the room.

Making Friends
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On my way to the room, I stopped to chat with some guests in the hall.  Then, I waved  to Catherine, who was heading down our way... just in time for my faux pas.
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I could blame it on all the social distraction in the hallway. But I think I'll blame my goof on the tiny door knocker! If the tiny number, on the tiny knocker hadn't been so small, then maybe I would have noticed that I was standing beside the wrong door.

I waved good-bye to the others, inserted the key  and turned the knob. I wish I had a photo of the couple, seated in the cushioned chairs, holding their wine glasses... when they looked up, to see me coming into their room. 
"Oh no! Oh I'm sorry! Oh I can't believe I did this! Oh... and why did my key even work?!" I just stood their rambling while they stared. Then they assured me it was fine and I thanked them for not throwing anything at me. I started to leave and the gracious, older man asked, "So what room are you in?" I hated to admit we were neighbors and I was staying next door. He smiled slightly, "Well, I guess we'll be paying you a visit, at 3 in the morning." There was a wink in his voice and I know he was kidding... but that comment sort of terrified me.

Morning

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I had no more embarrassing moments that evening. In the morning I tiptoed out, trying to be a quiet neighbor. I went on a run, heading past the park. Who needs a hotel fitness room, when you've got Saugatuck sidewalks! I looked back at the long hotel, on that peaceful morning.
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I asked Catherine later, how you get up to the roof balcony. She smiled, like she was sharing a secret. She said that was where she lived and then she described her oasis on the 3rd floor. I wish we'd gotten an invitation.

​Exploring Saugatuck
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In our two days, we never used our car once and that was a huge part of what made our hotel stay wonderful. My morning run let me peek at the quiet town, without people.

On the River
Saugatuck was also charming, when it was filled with people. We took the ferry over the Kalamazoo River, we shopped and dined and watched the crowds gather for music in the park. What an idyllic setting! We couldn't have asked for a better location.

​What's Notable?
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Our 15-room hotel was the perfect size. It sat on a quiet street, in a town of less than 1,000... also a perfect size. 
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Our stay was made extra special because we got to share it with Jennifer and Kate. Don and I are so used to traveling with just ourselves, that we forget how fun it is to enjoy hotel memories, with others.

By the time we 4 got the cars loaded, we were already sighing about our stay and laughing about our host. I told the others that I'd seen Catherine on my way out and I had gushed to her about our wonderful stay. I chuckled over Catherine's brief response. "Oh? Well, bye now!"
I felt like she was my mother shooing me outside to go play. Was that annoying? Not at all. I just wanted Catherine to adopt us, so we could be invited to the next family reunion. 
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#231 - Bavarian Inn Lodge - Frankenmuth, Michigan

8/19/2019

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A Fun or Funny? 

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In July, Don and I traveled in Michigan. I insisted we visit the German town of Frankenmuth.
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"There's a lodge! It will be fun!" 

​Don showed interest when I told him I remembered eating at some German restaurant, when I was 16.  
I assured him that it would be an entertaining overnight. "It could be fun... or it might just be funny." 

​Historic... and Touristy

I had good, but vague memories of the little German town. However, the images I saw on the internet made "Michigan's Little Bavaria" look like a German theme park.  Just how hokey would it be?
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Then I decided, even if the town was jammed with tourists and dripping in corny German decor, it could be fun and memorable. Besides, Frankenmuth was more than a stage set. There was real history. The town was founded in 1845, by 15 German-Lutheran missionaries. 

July 4th Weekend
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We arrived on Friday, over 4th of July weekend. That could have been asking for trouble, right there. But, we were ready to take on the whole Bavarian Inn & Frankenmuth Experience. 

Bavarian Inn's Confusing History
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When we spotted The Inn from Main Street, it looked like it covered the whole block. It actually looked pretty festive, with all the colorful flowers.
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My photo just shows part of the rambling complex. Surprisingly, the right portion of building goes back to 1888. It was built as a hotel by the Fischers, the family that began the all you can eat fried chicken trend, in Frankenmuth. The hotel didn't have a Bavarian motif at all.

Fischer Hotel

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In 1950, the Zehnder family bought the Fischer Hotel. William (Tiny) Zehnder Jr. and his wife Dorothy ran the place. Tiny (I so love that name) died over a decade ago, but Dorothy at 97,  still can be found helping out in the restaurant's kitchen!

​Zehnder's Famous Chicken Dinners?
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This Zehnder family is confusing! It took a while to get this all figured out.
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So, across the street from Bavarian Inn, is Zehnder's Restaurant. Don and I actually ate there before checking in. This was the fried chicken biz, that Tiny's parents opened in 1928. Initially they served overflow customers from Fischer's.
Today both places serve fried chicken and German food... and are run independently, by different parts of the Zehnder fam. That's just strange. Two competing businesses across from each other... in a town of less than 5,000... both owned and run by the same family that immigrated in the 1800's! Whew!

Then and Now
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After a hearty lunch, Don and I headed across the street to the Bavarian Inn. We walked through the beer garden, through the door in the 50-foot Glockenspiel tower. This was part of the Old World expansion that Tiny added in 1959. 
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​Lost in the Inn

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Don and I headed inside and spent forever, wandering the halls, in search of the hotel lobby.

We found about 10 dining rooms, many with crowds waiting to be seated. But we found no front desk.  

Across the River
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Outside, we found a carriage driver, who pointed out the Bavarian Inn Lodge, across the Cass River. She told us we could walk over the covered bridge. Okay, maybe this was Disney World! The sight of the complex, on 7 acres of land... was comical.

Holz Bruecke from 1979
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The bridge (like the hotel) was not old. But it was pretty.
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We followed a buggy across the bridge and met a couple who asked if we'd take their photo. They had just become engaged. We had a fun chat and then the groom-to-be asked Don, "You've been married 40 years? What's your secret?" Don answered with a grin. "Be a good listener."  Sweet.


Hiking to the Lodge
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We headed down the road, laughing at ourselves. These buildings looked like a fairytale village!  What were we getting into? And why were we leaving our car way behind?
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We passed a giant birdcage, with peacocks. We watched a few kids roll down the hill, on a nearby lawn.
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When we got past the huge parking lot, there was a colorful lineup of buildings. Of course my photo from early morning, looks peaceful. At 2:00 pm, there were toddling tots and crying babies in strollers, old folks with walkers and smokers on benches. 
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But the flowers were pretty. And I was happily amused by the painted stucco, in the shady, garden area.
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Lobby
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It was about 90 degrees, which felt pretty warm after our hike. We were glad the lobby entrance was in the first building.

Lots to Look At

I shouldn't be a travel snob. I shouldn't make fun. But it was hard not to laugh when I took in some of the decor, as we stood in the snaking, check in line. 
My neck hurt from staring upward, at the upside down Christmas tree (decorated in spring colors) and the German dolls and wooden oxen yoke, deer heads and pastel umbrellas. What a display!

Where Do We Go?
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I should have listened when we were given directions to our room. It was a confusing maze through all the buildings. It would have been easier if we'd just walked outside and headed past the Banquet/Conference Center... 
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We could have just parked down by the "Tower Entrance".  But instead we wandered inside, turning down many wrong halls and dodging families with all their pool gear. Were we the only guests with no children? 

At Last!

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Don and I grinned and shushed each other, every time we read the special reminder signs! Then at last, we found our room!
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I wish I'd taken some photos of all the cleaning carts and rollaway beds and folding cribs, that clogged the hall. But I must say, the staff couldn't have been friendlier. They cheerily apologized every time we stepped around their carts.

Spacious...
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We stepped into our room and chuckled just a bit. The size was fantastic. We had no complaints about that.
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The bathroom and furniture were a bit dated, but all was clean. We'd seen photos on the website, so it was no surprise. However the balcony door and windows bothered me. There seemed sort of industrial and odd. But at least I knew there was a balcony, with a river view, just outside them. We'd paid extra for that perk.

 Shared Balcony?
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When we opened the door and realized we had a shared balcony, I suddenly was less enthused. I hadn't pictured us sharing the balcony space with other families. Plus, we suddenly had no privacy in our room, when the curtains were open. Oh well.
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The view of the trees and garden and river was nice. It was all pretty peaceful out there... just a few muffled squeals, now and then. That was off to the left, coming from the kids inside the tower, sliding down the enclosed water slides. Funny.

Photos?

There was another odd thing about our room.
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The wall decor made me think we had accidentally stepped into someone's personally decorated timeshare room. I'm fine with some dated decor and slightly musty carpet. Don and I would stay only at Marriotts, if we had those concerns. But there were so many framed photos?

At Home With the Claramunts

It took a while to get it... but our room was named for the Claramunt Family. There were pictures of Morrall and Nancy and their 3 kids all over the room. There were even family Baptismal certificates on the wall. Why?
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Okay, I'm sure the Claramunts are outstanding folks. But it was strange being surrounded by them. And why are those frames not centered over the couch?  
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So I guess we weren't the only ones who lucked out with a family focused guest room. As it turns out, every one of the 360 guest rooms, is named for a local family or person in the community. Gee, if only I'd seen the list of all the room names, earlier. I could have requested to stay in the room that says MEYER on the door. That's my maiden name, from my German great grandfather. Next time?


Exploring
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After taking in the wonders of our room, we set off to explore.
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Don and I peeked around at some of the pool excitement, but really we had no urge to participate. There were 4 indoor pools, plus putt putt, ping pong and pool, as in billiards... gift shops, arcades. There was lots to delight the families.

Where's the Beer?
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In the evening we hiked back across the bridge, in search of a little German beer. We headed into the original building where the Fischers once got in a little trouble for selling beer, during prohibition. Evidently the Zehnders did as well, across the street!

Dining Rooms
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The street entrance took us into a waiting area, for two of the dining rooms. There were no crowds waiting, like there had been at lunch. We weren't hungry yet, but I was curious. I peered through the glass into Tiny's Room. That must be used for special events.
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I peeked into the Family Crest Dining Room and I became less hungry. I just wasn't ready to eat another big meal in a big banquet room... even if the staff was dressed in festive lederhosen!

Beer and Pretzel!
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Instead, I chose to be amused by a pouting mannequin, wearing his lederhosen. He was sitting at a small bar, I sat beside him and posed with an empty mug.  Don posed with pretzel and beer. Both were good and we were happy.

Wandering
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So we spent the evening in the building where the whole Frankenmuth fried chicken thing started, about a century ago and we didn't end up eating! That is sinful. We could have eaten a German feast as well. But we just weren't hungry after our big lunch.
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By the time we were hungry, the dining rooms were clearing out. Some of the rooms weren't even in use, which seems crazy. It was a Friday night in July!

​Back to the Lodge
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By 9:00, the German band was packing up in the beer garden and the Glockenspiel was playing its last little show.

We headed back over the bridge. Man it stays light, late in Michigan!

Lorelie Lounge 

​We found some life back at the lodge. The crowd at Lorelie's Lounge was a mix of locals and tourists. The live music was pretty decent and our server, Holly kept us happy with popcorn! 
She assured us, the 10:00 Schnitzelbank Sing-a-long was a must. Don knows some German, so he was able to sing along, with the help of our napkin. What a hoot! They even had a real schnitzelbank work bench on display near the stage. I only wish we'd been able to do a little German polka dancing.

Morning

We slept well in our king bed, which actually came with both soft and hard pillows. Extra points for that. I woke early and threw on my running shoes.
One of the nicest parts of the stay, was getting up early before the heat and crowds. I had the most lovely run, over the bridge and into town. I even stopped to play the little instrument, beside the sidewalk.

Back on the Porch 
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After a quick shower, Don and I made coffee and pulled out some pastries, we'd  brought with us. I was determined to use that shared balcony before we left. Luckily our neighbors seemed to be sleeping. It was pretty pleasant and quiet.

We packed up, said good bye to the Claramunt Clan. We were soon on our way.

What's Notable?
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It's a little ridiculous that we spent a night at the Bavarian Inn Lodge and we did not partake of the water activities or the dining! That's crazy.
Yes there was some hokey stuff and our room was not the most luxurious. But Don and I really enjoyed exploring and lounging and figuring out the odd Zehnder history. I don't know that we'll go out of our way to stay again in the future, but I'm mighty glad we stayed this time!
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#230 - The Bell Tower Hotel in Ann Arbor

8/15/2019

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July 4th in Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Don and I stayed at The Bell Tower, last month. It was about 90 degrees outside, which was about 50 degrees warmer than when we stayed, 15 years before.

It was Easter weekend, when our family stayed the first time. We had chosen the hotel, since U of M's campus was right across the street. Our daughter was taking a college tour. 

That seems so, so long ago!

​Even Longer Ago

​Even longer ago, I was a high school student, living in Ann Arbor. I remember this hotel, with its formal, almost European appearance. 

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Don also lived in Ann Arbor then. He was a student at U of M, but we didn't meet until a few years later, in St. Louis.  

1970's

My Dad worked at U of M and it seemed like my parents were always meeting up with special guests for drinks or dinner, at the Bell Tower. It sounded like a ritzy place. Was it?
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Dad's office was just around the corner from the hotel. I have fond memories of wandering around that familiar area. I didn't exactly hang out at the Bell Tower Hotel, but I wondered about it. I imagined important people staying there... like Arthur Miller or Leonard Bernstein. I'm not sure that they ever did.

Funny Building

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When we arrived on July 4th, the street had just opened up, after a morning parade. We lucked out and got ourselves some free holiday parking, right in front.
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I took a good look at the 3-story stone facade, with flags and window boxes. I'm not sure what they were thinking in 1967, when they added that oddball 4-story structure, with balconies. I'm pretty sure the angled building on the left, wasn't there before.  
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Lobby
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I don't actually remember what the lobby looked like, when I first peeked in, as a teenager. But it probably had the same, proper English-looking decor.
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Luckily, the upholstery and carpet seemed fresh. The fireplace wasn't needed on this July 4, but the a.c. was. It worked well. ​

The woman checking us in was very pleasant. I asked if she had any idea how old the building was.
She didn't know, but happily looked for a history printout, that she recalled seeing once. She couldn't find it, but offered to do a Google search. That was actually very sweet of her. I thanked her for offering, but I'd already tried and failed to come up with anything.  We finished checking in and carried our bags 5 steps up, to the elevator.

Mixing Styles
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The elevator, was in the "new" building, beside one of the mod, 1960's glass windows. 

I had to smile at the curious mix of styles, in the space between the old and "new" buildings.

The sparkly ceiling fixture, drapes and spotlighted oil painting, seemed connected to the old building. The interesting  art piece, with glass shelves and chess pieces, was a little more connected to the modern building.



B
urton Memorial Tower
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I had hoped we could get a room with a view of Burton Tower, across the street. Since we were staying at the Bell Tower Hotel, it seemed fitting, to look out and see the 83 year old tower, that houses a grand carillon! But those rooms were higher in price. I settled for a photo, from the window near the elevator.

Second Floor
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The second floor hall was quiet and clean. Our room on the left, was in the older building. 

I was suddenly glad we were staying at the 66-room Bell Tower Hotel and not at a Holiday Inn, on July 4th. Bell Tower had no pool, which meant there were no kids running down the hall in swimming suits. 
There also weren't any parents with high school or college students. I'm sure the atmosphere will change, when campus is busy in the fall.

Room 210
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Our room was tiny and clean. Very tiny. But it was our choice to pick a room with the lowest rate. The decor was slightly updated since our last visit, but it looked a little worn.
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There was no bell tower to be seen from our window. In fact our view was about as bad as it gets. But, there were drapes and we could close them and imagine a better view. 

The TV worked well and the bed and pillows were comfy. The closet shelf held the coffee maker and glasses. The bottled water was not complimentary, but that made it easier to be Green and not partake. I did appreciate that our small room  had 2 end tables with lamps. Yay.

Bathroom TV

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The maid left the TV on in the bathroom, or we never would have known it was there. Out of 230 Notable Nights, this is only the second time we've had a TV built into our mirror. Not needed, but fun!
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In past write ups, I've complained a lot about trendy bathrooms that use glass in their doors. Our nice, but small bathroom had a frosted glass window, in the door. Why? That little detail means...  If you want to get up early and shower, you have to share your bathroom light, with the late sleeper. Oh well. It really wasn't a problem, this time. 

Exploring
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The best part of our stay, was the location! Besides hearing beautiful sounds from over 50 bells, in the limestone tower, we were just steps away from campus.
We wandered in the evening and morning, spotting familiar buildings and a few we didn't recognize. We saw Heidi's first dorm and Don's old dorm... The Power Center where my dad directed plays... Hill Auditorium, where I watched my brother graduate from law school... And in the evening we joined my dear high school friend, Lorie, for some July 4th festivities on the lawn. 

After Dark

I was disappointed that our hotel no longer had a restaurant at all. I wanted to sit in the dining room/bar, where my parents once sipped Manhattans...

​But our hotel was within easy walking distance of Main Street and State Street, with lots of food options. We  wandered later that night and found some pizza and beer, which hit the spot. 
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Seeing the old theaters lit up, brought back memories. I remember an organist performing before the movie started, at The Michigan. I remember cringing over "Jaws" at the State Theatre! 

Morning

On Friday morning, Don raced down to put money in the meter by 8:00. Then we headed through the lobby, to the area where our complimentary breakfast was waiting.
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In 2004, this area had been the Escoffier restaurant. I actually found the brochure from our last stay and had a good time comparing! We didn't have a chance to dine in that dark and formal room 15 years ago. But in 2019 we enjoyed a little breakfast. The bright modern look was an odd, but refreshing contrast to the rest of the hotel. 
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I wasn't hungry enough to sample all the hot and cold options, but I got the perfect amount for me. I was thrilled to grab a complimentary New York Times and the coffee was extra good. It was a nice end, to our easy stay.

What's Notable?
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On the 4th of July, we got a reasonably priced hotel room, just steps away from the U of M campus AND that wonderful Art Deco tower.

Our memories won't really be about the room or the lobby. Mostly I'll remember our hotel as a cozy and quiet home base, surrounded by the heart of Ann Arbor and U of M. How easy it was to step out the door and head off in any direction, to wander and remember. 
It was such a treat spotting places and buildings, that triggered memories. And how crazy that Don and I each had stories to share from the same years... when we both lived in Ann Arbor and didn't know each other.

So, we explored, we remembered and we discovered! That's notable.  There's also a notable fact I learned about that sweet clock tower. But I won't share, because it just makes me sad.  Too much knowledge is not always a good thing.
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#229 - Weber's Inn - Ann Arbor, MI

8/8/2019

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​A Restaurant With a Hotel

Don and I had a few reasons to book Weber's Hotel for our recent visit. A night in a luxurious guest room, wasn't really one of them. 
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Our stay at Weber's, had more to do with the dining adventure, than the notable overnight.

But that's how the family owned, Ann Arbor institution, would have it. It's always been mostly about the food.

Serving Food Since 1937

Herman Weber started selling burgers and beer, at an Ann Arbor gas station in 1937.  
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After expanding the biz and moving to a couple locations, Herman and his wife Sonja, purchased property and opened Weber's Restaurant at its current location. This is how it looked in 1962 after opening.  
Herman died a few years ago, but his son and grandsons operate the well loved restaurant and hotel, today.

2019

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This is how Weber's looked when Don and I pulled off Jackson Road, this past July. The building looked totally different, than how I remembered it. 
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We parked and walked towards the entrance. I recognized the funny-shaped "W", that always reminded me of a devil's pitchfork.  
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2008 Renovations
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The entrance was sleek and welcoming, with stone, wood, brick and flowers. There was a small crowd, relaxing on the side patio. We rolled our bags through the front doors and suddenly laughed at ourselves. We had come through the restaurant's entrance and our suitcases looked a little out of place.

Hotel Entrance
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We drove around to the other side, where we found the entrance to the hotel. I had no memory of it, since my family only came to Weber's to eat, back in the seventies. 
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The hotel didn't exactly look 50 years old. It was built in 1969, to replace an older hotel owned by the Webers. Renovations and additions over the years, changed the look. But the funny W was still there!
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Check In
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It was July 3, the day we checked in. The busy staff was friendly. We chatted a bit about Victor, the Elk... who is given a red nose and renamed Rudolph, every December.

Mid Century Modern?

I glanced around the hotel's interior. I have no idea how the decor looked when it was built, 50 years ago. The fairly recent renovation, looked clean and fresh.
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The Mid Century Modern furniture and fixtures, fit the hotel's history pretty well.  But the MCM style is becoming so common these days, it hardly feels retro, anymore.

Snazzy Elevators
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The elevators were kind of fun. There might be a story with those... but we were in a bit of a rush.

Room in the Older Section

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We found our room at the end of the hall, near some diamond pane windows. I snapped a photo later, at night. I remember how those colorful diamonds glowed at night... back in 1975, when I was at Weber's last.  

4th Floor Room
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We dashed into our room to quickly change clothes for dinner. As I said, our overnight had more to do with our dining adventure. I didn't have time to grumble about our lack of view. (All we could see was a roof) I didn't even care that there was a bathroom towel sitting on the sill, soaking up moisture from the a.c. unit. Oh well.
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I did like the modern touches here and there. The space age lamps and artwork... the large desk, decent TV and heavenly soft bed, were all good.
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I loved the smooth modern, rattan chair in the corner. I cared less for the bathroom, which had not been updated. Some rooms in the hotel, did have spiffier bathrooms. But I didn't really care.

Off to Dinner!
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In minutes we were dressed and on our way. We found the hall that connected to the restaurant... and there it was! This was what our Weber's stay was really about. I was geared up, to revisit my past! 
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The swanky dining room had changed from the days when my family visited years ago. But the space with the vaulted ceiling, still had a festive feel. It was packed, when we entered. Not so much, when I took this photo, long after our meal. 

Reunion Time!

Don and I were hungry, but this wasn't really about the food. We were excited about our very special dinner dates that night. Lorie and her mom, Judy were already seated at a lovely table, with white linens, surrounded by a lively July 4th holiday, weekend crowd! A piano player entertained nearby and waiters rushed back and forth.
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A stranger actually took this photo after we finished dinner. We were unable to get our waiter, to stop for more than a second to snap a photo of our table. But I couldn't let the evening end without a picture, to remember our fun gathering.

Feasting...

We sipped cocktails and feasted on delicious breads. Our meals arrived on classic plates. Maple Leaf Farms Duck, Amish Chicken... All good! We talked for 3 hours, without a pause.
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We pondered the past, remembering when Lorie and I met in high school, 45 years ago. We fretted over the state of our country. We eagerly discussed a new jazz club. We moped over a few downtown. And we laughed over old prom memories... Our table felt like a comfy island. We hardly took notice of all the noise and activity that surrounded us.

Then, Dessert

We really needed no extra entertainment at our table. But at one point, I just had to pull out my old Ford Motor Cookbook, featuring Weber's Supper Club, in 1963. I showed the watercolor image and dessert recipe, to Lorie and Judy. We all laughed and then I made the mistake of trying to include the busy waiter, in our book amusement.
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"Do you by any chance still serve Almond Rum Cream Pie?" I asked. Our waiter was busy, but I refused to take a hint. He really did not want to look at my cookbook, but I sort of insisted. I knew better. I am very aware that my cookbook totally delights some and bores others. He had to remind me he was busy.
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Coconut Snowball

Luckily the failed cookbook attempt could not dampen our spirits. It just made us laugh harder. We celebrated the silliness by ordering another decadent dessert. Weber's has been serving the special ice cream treat with toasted coconut, hot fudge and whipped cream, since the '60's.
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I made a quick trip to wash my sticky hands in the restroom... and to inquire at the hostess station. "Is Mr. Weber here tonight?" Rats. The man I'd observed was not the owner. Herman Weber's son probably would have loved peeking at the old cookbook and sharing memories. Or maybe not.

Quiet and Cozy
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By the time we had finished up, most of the diners were gone. Lorie pointed out some of the cozier dining areas where she and her mom meet for their weekly dinners. I've been wanting to join them here for years... and we finally did! We said our good byes and it all just felt so satisfying. What a perfect place to have our special reunion!

​Wandering and Wondering

Before heading to our room, Don and I wandered back through some of the other dining areas and I wondered about all the celebrations and conversations that have taken place, since 1961. How many business deals? How many wedding proposals?  
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I remembered a couple special meals my family had enjoyed at Weber's, when I was a teen. When I spotted the round table in the corner, I remembered a dinner, where my father introduced his future wife. I can't say that was my best memory.

Now I have a " happy reunion" to add to my collection of Weber's memories.  

Heading Back

Don and I took our time, heading back to our room. 
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We had a good old time looking at the photos on the Wall of Fame! So many curious guests have come to Weber's. Colonel Sanders, Leonard Bernstein, Louis Armstrong... Jimmy Durante. 

Another Wall Surprise
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I was pretty giddy, when I found a framed watercolor image on another wall. It was almost identical to the illustration in my cookbook. That was some good entertainment before heading to our room.

Morning
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In the morning, we took our $15. food voucher to the dining room for breakfast. We had been given that voucher as a little perk, to make up for the fact the pool was closed for renovation.  

Coffee Bar 

I was impressed that the dining tables had linens, even in the morning. But, we decided to go for a faster breakfast, at the restaurant's bar.
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We ordered cappuccinos and breakfast pastries and had the best time chatting with our young server, Megan. 
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Megan had only worked at Weber's for 2 weeks, but she had as much enthusiasm about the place as you'd expect from a faithful waiter with decades of Weber's memories.

So, I dared to pull the cookbook out of my bag. The hotel bar was quiet and relaxed and I needed to have some cookbook success after the night before. 
Megan was chatty and upbeat and she passed the cookbook test with flying colors. She was delighted to flip through the pages AND she posed for me! Thanks Megan!

Last Look 


Before checking out, Don and I took one last look around. We wandered down a retro-modern staircase near the restaurant and climbed up a spiral staircase, in the pool area.  

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They were renovating the indoor pool space and I had to grin at the thought of how wildly modern, this atrium must have seemed in 1969. Back in the day, the pool view rooms, with their glass doors and spiral staircases, must have been extra exciting for the winter guests!

What's Notable?

As we headed off, I tried to decide what was notable about our stay. For me it was all about connections.
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Our hotel was connected to a restaurant. The restaurant was connected to old memories. 

But best of all, we made some new memories when we connected once again, with Lorie and Judy! 
So glad we had a happy and notable night at Weber's!
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#228 - Pioneer Pocket Hotel in Lubbock

8/7/2019

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​Lubbock, Texas
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Don and I have stayed at some wonderful historic hotels in Texas. We love the small town gems, with easy access and lots of history. This past June, we chose an historic, high rise hotel, in the midsize city of Lubbock. Easy and interesting!
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 Downtown
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We arrived on a warm and windy, Saturday afternoon. The bricks on the street and the hotel, seemed to be absorbing the sunshine. 
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The 11-story, Renaissance revival structure, is no longer the tallest building in the old downtown. But it was the most impressive. Impressive and quiet, for a Saturday.

​Since 1926

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93 years ago, Hotel Lubbock opened up downtown, on the corner of Broadway and Avenue K.

There was lots going on in the city, which was experiencing a boom due to the cotton industry.
The hotel didn't look much different back then... except it was 5 stories shorter and there were Model Ts parked nearby, instead of SUVs.

​"
Pioneer Pocket"

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Last spring, Don read about the new hotel on the internet. The once abandoned hotel had made a comeback and there was an interesting twist! I was curious.

What was with that name? Evidently, Hotel Lubbock changed ownership, in 1961 and became Pioneer Hotel. 

The "Pocket Hotel" term is a new thing, I guess. Googling didn't help much. We booked one of the 10 guest rooms and decided to find out. Yep, this 11-story building, only had 10 rooms for guests.

Staff-less Hotel

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We arrived and parked in the lot, next door. Yay! You don't get free parking with big city hotels. Then we headed towards the side door and Don pulled up the code from his phone. The Pioneer Pocket Hotel was a fully automated hotel! We weren't exactly sure what that meant, but we were eager to give it a try.  

Lobby
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This is how the lobby would have looked, 50 or more years ago. There were 142 guest rooms and lots of people to take care of those guests.

Today
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This is how the lobby looked, when we walked in on Saturday afternoon. There was no desk and no bellman. We knew that ahead of time, but it was still odd.

​ Lobby Seating
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There was nice seating, in the modern space. But there were no people using the tables or velvety chairs. That's because most of the people who walk through this lobby, are coming to dine or drink. Others are heading up to their homes, since the building reopened with condos in 2012.

​Up We Go
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It felt strange to breeze through the lobby and head straight for the elevator. There were two. One was for the condo residents and the one with the vintage hotel image, was for hotel guests. We headed up.
 
307 - The Pioneer Room

The 10 hotel rooms were on the 3rd floor. It was oddly quiet when we walked down the hall. No cleaning carts or hints of hotel life. We punched in the code to our room.
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Each room had a name and theme. Vineyard, Windmill, Cotton... Our Pioneer Room, had no covered wagon or bonnet decor. Instead it was filled with wonderful vintage photos of the Lubbock area. From the days it was called Pioneer Hotel?
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We chose the cheapest of the rooms. There were 8 suites and 2 rooms, to choose from. Ours was cozy, with only 310 square feet. But it felt fresh and clean and was less than $100. 

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​I would suggest getting 2 slim tables and moving the queen bed into the center.

View?
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​There was really no view. I had to stand on the bench to look out and all I could see were the windows and walls on both sides and a roof below.

Oh well, the people who live in the condos need the view more than I do.

All the Extras
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Luckily, our room was well equipped. There was a Keurig coffeemaker and a fridge and room sink. There were nice Poggesi bath products and even a toothbrush kit. There were extra pillows and linens. If we'd decided we were needing something, it would have been a little trickier, since there was no front desk to call.

Back Down
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By 4:30 the lobby was brighter. The sliding doors to the West Table Restaurant were open. The restaurant looked classy and comfortable.

Original Staircase
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The Italian marble floors were glossy and dramatic. The original staircase invited even more drama. I headed up, to try to find the ballroom. 
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I had read about all the events that had been held in the glamorous space, over the years. But there was no access. I peered down from a railing and enjoy the lobby view, instead.

Curious About History

I love exploring old hotels and usually the desk staff can point me in a good direction. It was a little frustrating, having no one there. But, I let the wall art, with old downtown images, give me some hints about the past history.
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It was fun imagining the downtown, before the businesses moved out towards shopping centers and malls. I wondered what the area looked like in 1975, when the old hotel building became a low income retirement center. Or in 1994, when the 11-story building was in disrepair and closed down for good.

Hungry and Thirsty
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By 5:00, Don and I were ready to make use of some of the food & drink options, in the building. The Coffee Shop was closed, but it looked like a pretty fun space.

The Brewery LBK
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Don loves a local brewery and this one was right off the lobby. The atmosphere was inviting, with some fun table games and dartboards. I helped Don sample a flight, but mostly I loved the complimentary popcorn.
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We had a view out the door, of the patio area, with a pair of loose chihuahuas that had arrived on their own. The tiny dogs were cute, but not nearly as cute as the entire worried staff, that kept appearing from the kitchen in their aprons, fretting over the poor lost pups. The dogs' stressed owner, eventually arrived in her car and everyone quietly cheered.

Dinner?
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We read some stellar reviews about the hotel's restaurant. But the menu was a little pricey and we weren't hungry enough to indulge.  We decided to head on down the street, to get something lighter.

Evening Light
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We headed north on Avenue K, in search of what we thought, was the Arts or Depot District. I'm guessing, we took some wrong turns. We passed a couple wig shops and a tattoo parlor... a boarded up Kress Store. The hot wind was whipping up dust. Paper trash and plastic cups were tumbling down the street. 

We turned at one point and headed back to our safe oasis, standing tall in the glowing evening light.

​One Quick Pic

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Just before crossing over to our hotel, I had to pause to admire the old brick in the alley. There was something a little unsettling about our wandering, but it's nice to know, this area is being rejuvenated. I'm so glad they have held onto the brick.

​The West Table Bar
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It was fun to see how lively the restaurant, bar and brewery had become. Hungry now, Don and I took 2, of 4 stools at the bar, where "Cousin" and his amazing mustache, served us well!
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We shared a bottle of Dead Flowers Rose and devoured some mouthwatering appetizers! Crispy Goat Cheese Croquettes and Crab Hushpuppies. 
Best of all, we enjoyed the good humored service of Cousin and his sidekick, Jameson, while they worked behind the bar. What a great team they were. I loved hearing stories about Cousin and his youth... the land he grew up on, changing from cotton to peanuts to vineyards. From Jameson we learned about Lubbock's dramatic weather. Specifically, a recent wall of dust, (known as haboob) that struck the town! What entertaining talk!

Morning
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We slept well in our cozy Pioneer Room. I rose early and headed out with my camera to take one more photo of the hotel. Besides the wind, which was still blowing, all was quiet, that Sunday morning... until I heard a voice yelling. I looked up to see a man staggering down the sidewalk. He was waving some kind of sign, as if it were a flag. 
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I gulped and aimed myself towards the entrance. "Don't panic. Don't panic." I reminded myself that I needed to remain calm, or I would fumble with the code and not get the door open. (I know myself) I got safely inside and pulled the door behind me, before the creepy man got to the corner. Whew.

Off We Go
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Don and I packed up and headed out by 8:30. It was quiet in the lobby, as expected. There was no one to ask about our stay. No key to hand over. We drove out of town, through the Depot District, down Buddy Holly Avenue. All was quiet and empty. I wish we'd found this area, the night before.

What's Notable?
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Our Pocket Hotel experience was easy and comfortable, clean and attractive. But I guess I'm old fashioned. I like to connect with our hotel hosts. Airbnb has made the automated check in more common, but I still prefer having someone available at the desk... when I'm chased inside by a creepy stranger.

I wish I could have learned more about the hotel's history. Did the Pioneer name mean something? ​I Googled for info and ended up with some gory news stories, about a number of past hotel murders, specifically on the 4th floor. ​
Yikes! I guess I'm glad I didn't have that notable bit of information, before we stayed.
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    Ninety Notable        Nights

    My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains.    

    I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth.  Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years.

    ​The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures.  I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding!

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