We finally stayed! This hotel in the French Quarter, has been on the list for a while!

First Visit

I first fell in love with the idea of a holiday stay, in 2014.

We were in New Orleans visiting family for Thanksgiving. While wandering the day after, we came upon the fabulous Monteleone, already decked out for the holidays. Since my daughter was also decked out in her new hat from a nearby shop, I begged her to pose. The hotel went on my mental list, that day.
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Christmas 2020

Five years later, Don and I found ourselves facing a Christmas without any kids! Instead of pouting, we looked into hotels in New Orleans. Monteleone had special Papa Noel rates! $136 !!

I was giddy as we headed toward the French Quarter, on Christmas Eve-Eve! Our hotel on Royal Street, looked as Royal as I remembered... with its flamboyant, Beaux-Arts style. In fact it looked like it had been plucked from a street in Paris and planted in New Orleans!  

4:00 PM

Royal Street was bustling when we arrived. Even our Uber driver was surprised by the mini traffic jam.

We were glad not to pay $40. a night for parking, but the parking garage couldn't have been cuter!

In We Go

We headed inside and awkwardly rolled our baggage up a few stairs. There was a ramp from the parking garage, evidently.

The space was not empty, like my photo!

There were lots of people in the lobby. Just off the lobby in the the Carousel Bar, there were even more people. The coveted seats at the rotating bar were all taken, with plenty of hopeful guests lurking nearby.

​Looking in the Lobby

Our room wasn't ready, so we lounged in the lobby and took it all in.

First I admired the lovely Christmas decorations. Then I took in all the permanent decor, from chandeliers, painted ceilings, arched windows and ionic columns.  

I heard the beautiful clock chiming, before I even spotted it.

The side of the classic antique clock, had a some sweet carved surprises!

The Monteleone Family

There were plaques and portraits to remind us, that the same family has owned the hotel for 133 years.

Antonio, a cobbler from Sicily, switched from shoes to hotels in 1886. Five generations and five major additions later, the hotel is still in the family. That's amazing.

​Heading Up

Before long, our room was ready and we headed to elevators. 

The elevator took us up in a building, that was one of the 5 additions. 

15th Floor

Our Papa Noel rate didn't get us one of the fancy suites in the grand, older section. But we got a 15th floor room, facing Royal Street.

I loved the small lion, greeting us from the door plaque. Our room felt cozy and classy. I appreciate it, when TVs are hidden.

There was a soft, reading chair. Two would have been nice. 

The linens were freshly pressed. The gold trim and lion logo, added to the royal feel!

The fridge and Keurig coffee maker came in handy. The bathroom was small and a bit dim, but there was a tub! 

View

However we weren't too high, to be free from the street noise. But that was fine. The distant sounds of street music and occasional honking and voices, just added to the flavor.

More Exploring

​After unpacking, we headed down to the Carousel Bar, but it was of course jammed. We wandered back up, to explore the roof deck. 

The roof top pool looked inviting, even in December. The poolside, Aqua Bella Bar was closed but would have been fun. We peeked again later and the water was warm and lovely. Bring suits next time!

Night Vibe

One of the biggest treats of our stay, was enjoying our location.

We could step out our door and easily walk to all our favorite places. Being so close to Christmas Day, meant we didn't deal with bachelorette parties and crowds of frat boys. The sidewalks were felt busy and friendly. What a nice surprise.

On Christmas Eve, we had reservations for Criollo.

The restaurant looked formal and quiet, when I peeked in earlier.

The lounge was not empty. Later, there was live music. Don and I laughed over our Christmas Eve dinner, when we heard a jazzy version of "Do the Hustle". 

Dinner with the Writers

Our reservations weren't until 8:30. I'm sure that would be considered early dining, by the famous writers who used to dine and drink at Monteleone.

We were seated in a small, side room. The space was decorated with curious art and objects, related to authors like Hemingway and Faulkner, who have histories with the hotel. I loved the framed image of Tennessee Williams (with rows of books) looking down from the wall.

Food

Criollo is the Spanish word for Creole. The menu got me excited about tasting all those Creole  flavors... Spanish, Italian, French, African and Caribbean! 

Here I am, ready to dig into my filet mignon, with scallop and shrimp. Merry Christmas Eve to that!

​Carousel Bar?

It was after 10 when we finished dinner. We peeked into the Carousel Bar.

Forget it. We thought the tourists would disappear on Christmas Eve and we'd finally get a seat. We gave up and I posed with the Christmas trees instead.

Morning at Monteleone

I was determined to see the hotel without crowds. On the morning of Christmas Eve I headed down the elevator before 7.

It was fun to see the street without cars and people. I was glad the holiday lights were still glowing.

​Christmas Calories

Then I headed through the quiet lobby and found my way to the fitness room.

All trips to Nola involve consuming lots of calories. I enjoyed a little workout with a view of the Mississippi.

Peaceful Lounge

I finished up and returned to the lobby in my grubby state. I peeked into the quiet lounge.

As I snapped a photo of the empty bar, I was greeted by Michael Dupree, the hotel's beverage manager. I asked him for Carousel Bar tips and he laughed. He said there is always a line outside the door, when the bar opens at 11.

Morning at the Carousel!

I couldn't have been more thrilled when Michael invited me into the closed bar to take photos.

It was so much fun to see the cushy couches and the colorful bar, without a single guest. 

Michael seemed incredibly relaxed for a manager, ready to face the holiday crowds. He talked about his love of New Orleans and the parades and the people. 

I thought about Truman Capote who claimed his mother gave birth to him at the Carousel Bar. Not true, but she did live at the hotel, when she was pregnant with him!

Michael and I shared a few stories about St. Louis and Texas and by the time I headed up for a shower, I was holding tickets for drinks at the bar. What a sweet guy!  

Christmas Morning!

Don and I didn't bring presents to the hotel, but we did bring our stockings.

Instead of calorie burning, I focused on calorie partaking. We enjoyed coffee and muffins... and candy for breakfast.
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Finally!

After numerous attempts, we finally had the Carousel Experience! First Don and I lurked, like we learned from others.

Then a zebra seat suddenly opened! I sat and Don awkwardly walked beside me as I traveled on the platform. We learned quickly that people are drinking and no one cares. He squeezed on and rode next to me.

Don eventually got the lion seat, next to me. He had a Sazerac and I tried Carousel Bar's famous, Vieux-Carre. We enjoyed the people watching as much as the drinks. 
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We chatted with a number of carousel travelers. We snapped pictures like tourists. We also jumped up and moved out of the way when there was a shift change. The bartenders have to hop over the bar, to get out of their circle!

What's Notable?

It seems ridiculously obvious, what is notable about a stay at Monteleone.

But the travelers and the locals we met, all seemed to be enjoying themselves. The hotel felt festive and the city felt welcoming. The only thing that could have improved our stay... enjoying it with the kids!

Fresh Look for The Fredonia!

Our night at The Fredonia, was a perfect ending to a weeklong road trip.

But the historic town of Nacagdoches was right on our route. And one peek at the hotel website, showed me that the place had made some recent changes. We booked.

November in Nacogdoches

The drive into town was a breeze. The lack of SFA State University students, could have played into that. It was the Sunday, before Thanksgiving.

We arrived to find the sun shining, on the sprawling brick building. I could just imagine the excitement in 1955, when The Fredonia opened. The community got the first-class, modern hotel that they'd craved.

The People's Hotel

As we approached the entrance, I admired the "Creole Modern" wrought iron. I didn't know the term at the time, but I recognized the style. I'm pretty sure my Great Aunt Marguerite had some of that white-painted iron work, with acorns and leaves. I had no interest in it that look, as a kid in the sixties. It totally amuses me now.

The plaque near the door, reminded us that the hotel was built by the town! In 1952, residents saw the need for a modern hotel and the residents came together and  raised funds. Could that even happen today?  

Mid-Century Fun

I altered my photo to look like an old postcard. I love motel and hotel postcards from the fiftie & sixties. Actually the stylish white lettering is new. The hotel changed names  from the 1970's until it closed in 1985.

It regained its Fredonia name when it reopened in 1989. That was back when mid-century modern was not so hip. The 1950's decor disappeared.

Today

We checked in at about 3. The staff was welcoming and pretty cute, in their purple checked shirts.

I was thrilled to see the photo mural, spotlighting the swimming pool (with bathing caps!) in the fifties.

I noticed the glowing, pink terrazzo floors, later that evening. I'm glad they were saved, during recent renovations. I was also glad to see the mid-century furnishings were back... at least the style.

I liked the retro look of the stairs. I'm not sure where the stairs went and I'm not sure why I failed to find out. I'm usually a better explorer.

And then there was the purple guy on the wall, near the bar entrance! The angry Lumberjack, was a reminder that we were in a college town.

The curved shape of the room was extra mod. The view of the kidney-shaped pool and patio, was pleasant on a sunny afternoon.

Patio Dining

It was close to perfect weather, for dining outside near the pool. 

I liked the critter, watching over the pool and garden. I asked the desk staff if that was a bunny and if so, did it have a name? They laughed and said no one had ever asked about a name. I will name him Astrobunny, after my one and only bunny pet.

​Pool

The pool/patio was totally enclosed by the restaurant, hotel and the one-story motel addition. 

We wanted to stay in the tower section, because it was the part of the original building in 1955. But, the motel came soon after. I would pick the motel experience, next time. There are 10 "Cabana Suites" overlooking the pool.

Autumn Patio

Staying in November, wasn't the best time for enjoying the pool area. But there were a number of standing heaters and a fire pit.  

And the trees still had some leaves. There were about 3 amazing trees, on that patio! They obviously built around them, in 1955. Beautiful.

6th Floor

We always ask for higher floors when we book. We hoped our room on the 6th floor might have a view.

We stepped out of the elevator on the 6th floor and found a nice little sitting area. There was hot coffee available in the morning.

Our Room

Our room was small but luxurious. (We usually book the cheapest) The bed linens were lovely, with simple, green stripes. 

Don graciously gave me the side, with the desk. There wasn't room for two bedside tables. ​ small room, meant the TV felt huge. There was a nice soundproofing feature.

The bathroom was also small, but very sleek. I wore a comfy robe and enjoyed coffee in the cute mug. The serious owl watched from above. 

Original Window

My favorite renovations, don't remove all reminders of the past. The room felt fresh and new, but that funny window, happily took me right back in time. Why did they place it so high?

The height and the condensation, made it hard for me to get a perfect view. But it was a fun one, when I stood on my toes. I spotted a few fall colors and church steeple.

Autumn in Nacagdoches

One of the nicest things about our stay, was being able to step outside the building and explore the historic old town.

We had the most glorious afternoon walk, as the sun lowered. Next time, we'll take in more of the town's history.

9 Flags Bar and Grill

In the late afternoon, we peeked into the hotel's bar. The sun was illuminating the glass bottles in the window. There was some very intriguing decor, that was very 21st century. Copper stools and lights, dripping from the ceiling like Spanish moss...

We weren't able to peek in the hotel's other restaurant, Republic Steakhouse. It was closed on Sunday. For dinner, we had to decide between the Cafe and 9 Flags Bar.

We decided on 9 Flags, since it seemed cozier and had an interesting crowd at about 7. The menu looked intriguing. We ordered a chicken Caesar salad and "Gruene Chicken Enchiladas". The cornbread croutons on the salad were good enough to be an appetizer. The Mexican dish was an amazing mix of sophisticated flavors! I can't begin to explain! Yum!

Night Patio

After dinner, we headed out to the patio and enjoyed the view across the pool and building, bathed in pastel lights.

The temps had dropped quite a bit, so we asked at the desk about the fire pit. It took a little while, but before long the fire was lit. What a treat! We sat outside on that chilly night, talking about our past week traveling through OK, MO and AR. A nice way to wind down.

What's Notable?
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We were pleasantly surprised with our stay! We got to enjoy a retro modern hotel, in the oldest city in Texas!

I'm glad the the DeWitt family stepped in, to bring this hotel back to the community in 2017! What a great job.

When Don and I started planning our road trip through Arkansas, we were thrilled to learn that Bentonville had a 21c hotel. But, the hotel was in a new building, with no history. There would be no city vibe. Blog worthy? We decided to find out.

Why Bentonville?

​Before we got curious about the hotel, we were interested in the Arkansas town... which is known to some, as the Birthplace of Walmart.​​ 

Whether you're a fan of Walmart or not, the Walton name has a lot to do with Bentonville history. I've actually been sort of intrigued with Sam Walton, since my history prof in the '70's spoke of him...

Old Downtown

Downtown Bentonville looked charming, when we arrived last November. ​It was easy to imagine locals strolling down the sidewalk, back when Sam and his wife first opened Walton's 5 & 10 Variety Store. ​​

70 years later, the original 5 & 10  Store is still open on Main Street... and there are over 50,000 residents!

Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

61 years after Sam Walton opened his store, his daughter founded Crystal Bridges. The town began to explode. Like many, Don and I were lured to Bentonville, because of the museum. 

The 217,000 square foot museum opened in 2011 and began attracting tourists quickly.  Obviously, they needed more hotels.

Now... About the Hotel

Don and I were eager to experience a little of this now popular town. We had one day & night, so we hit the museum early. (Wonderful!) Then we headed to the hotel, about a mile away. 

As we approached, the hotel looked clean and modern against the blue sky. I hoped there would be some good surprises in the somewhat stark building.

Street Parking

The old downtown area was bustling with festivities, leading up to the town's tree lighting ceremony. We were lucky to find a parking spot on the street, across from the skating rink. Wish we'd had time to skate!

We rolled our bags down the walk. As we got closer, the brick and glass building started to look more intriguing. We passed a lineup of windows, jutting out on the sidewalk. Odd!

First Surprise
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Before reaching the entrance I spotted our first art surprise.

A sweet bee sculpture was clinging to the brick. He looked like he was heading up to the sign, that wrapped the corner.  "The Hive Restaurant" Glad he pointed it out.

Outside Installations

We walked past the entrance so I could take a quick hotel pic, without people around. A little later, the area was swarming with crowds, enjoying festivities. 

The Fleetwood Cadillac limousine was a fun surprise. The green penguins, perched on the roof added a little extra amusement! They looked like they were guarding the place.

A chained off space beside the building, held a towering sculpture called, "Orange Tree". The balls and hoops tempted me to play, but it was obviously meant to be enjoyed with eyes only.

​Lobby

Two very friendly valet guys opened the entry doors, as we came through with our bags. They made us feel like we were entering a gracious old hotel.

The lobby looked nothing like a gracious old hotel. The airy space was more art gallery, than lobby. The registration desk was a simple table with stools and computers and a very welcoming staff. 

Nearby Art

Don checked us in and I checked out the art. I was drawn to the boats that floated along the white wall. 

When I stepped closer to examine each piece, the art became eerier. Each boat felt like it was from a different dream. I really liked them, but I hoped I wouldn't dream about them.

Across from the desk was a snaking, couch. The divided gray pieces reminded me of cushy dominoes. They seemed ready for me to trigger some action, with a little tap. At the end of the curvy lineup was a treadmill... which was part of an art installation and not for running. Was the couch art? Should I sit on it?

Traveling Exhibit 
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Two years ago, Don and I stayed at another 21c, in Kansas City. We knew a bit of what to expect. The hotels all have permanent art galleries, as well as traveling exhibits that rotate through their hotels.

What a shame that the current rotation exhibit in Bentonville, was the same one we saw in Kansas City! I recognized most of the thought provoking pieces from the "Refuge" collection.  

"Sudden Gust of Wind"

Before heading up to our room, I peered down this hall. I could see the narrow windows, that we had passed earlier on the sidewalk.

A glance at the walls and ceiling, made me feel like a sudden cyclone had just busted out all the window glass. It looked like the wind had scattered a huge pile of papers! Those "flying" pieces of paper, were really 400 pieces of metal.

Art Everywhere

Clearly, our hotel didn't restrict art to the galleries. We passed a light fixture, that was a work of art. It didn't need a spotlight, since it was one.

While we waited for the elevator, I noticed movement behind us. The wall-like  structure, suddenly seemed aware of us. Our movement sent the fan-like discs whirling. The shadow on the wall also came to life! Hard to capture in a still photo.

4th Floor Walls

We asked for a room on an upper floor and got our wish.  We headed up to the 4th floor, which is the top floor. That's high for Bentonville.

When the elevator doors opened, we colorful surprise.

Even though I was excited to get to our room, I had to stop and stare at the wall. I was fascinated by the green design, that surrounded the emergency info panels. Were those faces? The patterns below, looked like intricate rugs, perfect for an elaborate dollhouse! 

Who's in the Hall?

We turned down the hallway and I spotted one of the hotel's mascots!

I crossed fingers as we headed closer. Please be next to our door! Yep! He seemed to be guarding our room, #405. 

Fun With Penguins

I love the 21c Penguins! Each hotel has their own colony. Guests are encouraged to interact with them.

I welcomed our Green Friend into the room for a visit. We checked out the view and looked through some books. 

The whole penguin thing started as a temporary exhibit with the opening of the first hotel in 2006. 

​People fell in love with the red penguins in Louisville, so they stayed. Now, all the hotels have them. I loved our green guy. He looked perplexed when I talked into the receiver, which plugged into my cellphone. (another room perk)

Penguins Memories

​Don and I met our first penguin at the Kansas City hotel. They had sky blue penguins there, which seemed to all disappear into guest rooms, later that evening. Staff claimed that the penguin kidnappings were due to the large number of "kids" staying that night.   

That memory kept us from hogging our green guy for too long. After a while, Don took him to the elevator and faced him towards the doors, so he could properly await new guests.  An hour later, he was riding the elevator...

​More Room Perks

Our room wasn't cheap. Over $300. in a small town, is a lot to me. But the room was hip and spacious and scattered with animals. There was a hen pillow and dog pillow and a mighty fine hippo collage.  

In the bathroom, there was another critter. The rubber ducky in the shower would have preferred a tub... like me. But the bathroom's sleek design, glowing mirror and soft robes made up for the lack of tub!

Evening

The hotel's Hive Lounge was super crowded, so we enjoyed our own happy hour with a view. I'm sure the lounge wouldn't have been as generous with olives, as Don!

We sat near the window and let it entertain us. We peered down at the orange, "Hoop Tree" and out towards the water tower. Later that night, we gazed down at the lit trees, on the square.

Hive Dining

Around 8:00, we headed down to the restaurant and surrounded ourselves with honeycombs, bees and vines.

I also missed the meaning. I read that there was a serious element, to what I thought was whimsical art. The hidden treasures were more sobering than fun. (hidden skulls etc.) The bees looked cute, but there was a message, reminding us about current concerns, with honeybees and environment. 
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Waiting for a Table

We were told the wait could be 30 minutes for a table, so I made a quick dash while Don did the waiting.

I trotted down a block, with my camera and caught the last of the festivities. The live music had ended at 8, but Santa was still seated in his sleigh outside of Walton's. The trees looked like they wore glowing hairnets! I felt like I had stepped into a Hallmark Christmas movie!
​

Jessica was our very energetic server. Her black lipstick, colorful glasses and stories, made everything more entertaining. We worked up an appetite while Jessica raved about the chef's specialties.  ​

As we nibbled, I saw the table across from us leave. I asked Jessica if she could grab their penguin for us. She whirled around and delivered the green guy right to us. Then when I asked her to take our picture she got serious. "Oh we need to stage this!" She cleared our dirty dishes and moved our friend to a better spot. Oh I do love to play at dinner!

What's Notable?

The rest of our evening was lovely and we headed out happy the next day.

Our hotel could have been floating at sea and we'd have been content exploring and relaxing inside. But the location in Bentonville was a huge plus. My memory will be a combination of our hotel, the colorful town square and of course the Crystal Bridges Museum.

But let us not forget the penguins! I was afraid I might tire of the fun, but no. Yay for green penguins!

Curious 

Over the years, Don and I have done some exploring in the Missouri Ozarks. We only learned recently about the town of Hollister. We were excited when we heard the small town had an historic hotel.

That's because there wasn't much to talk about. By the 1960's tourism had fizzled in the old resort town. 

Back in the Day!

It was just this past year that Don and I both became aware of the town. It was my grandmother's "A Line A Day" diary that mentioned Hollister frequently. 

In the early 1920's, my grandmother Daw, was a young woman. For a number of years, she jotted notes in her little red book about her daily activities. I was most intrigued when she talked about the long weekends she spent with her sister and friends in the town of Hollister. She never mentioned Ye English Inn, but she wrote about swimming and picnicking and she used the word camp a lot. I wondered about this river resort area, with all its clubs and camps.

England in the Ozarks

Don was equally curious, so in November we headed for Hollister, to spend a night at the inn. The winding drive through the Ozarks reminded me of childhood trips, riding through "hillbilly country" in the station wagon, with windows down...  

But when we arrived in Hollister, we saw no cedar shacks or wild west facades. All the buildings on Downing Street were stone and timber. The little English Village faced the train tracks, almost like an Elizabethan version of Silver Dollar City. ​

Young Hollister 

Hollister got their first post office in 1904, about the same time Daw and her family took the train to the St. Louis World's Fair. There were no trains or tourists in Hollister at that time.

Hollister was a remote town when the train depot opened in 1910. William Johnson was the realtor who predicted a boom in tourism and built the English style hotel, 2 years later. In 1913 it was decided that all the buildings on Front Street, should have half-timber exteriors. The street name changed to Downing in 1963. 

 
Before Expansion

This vintage photo shows what passengers would have seen around 1912, when their the train pulled into the Hollister Depot.

However, I could have stopped in and had my hair and nails done inside the cute little building. Sadly, many of the shops past the hotel, were not open.

Roaring Twenties

By the 1920's, tourism was booming in Hollister. The hotel expanded to 3 floors and a dining room was added. Tourists would line up on the sidewalk for Sunday's meal, served on white tablecloths. 

I'm not sure if Daw ever enjoyed a Sunday meal at the inn. She did mention going to some church revivals, though. I so wish I could find old photos!

Today, Downing Street Pour House Restaurant & Bar occupies the space on the right, under the awning. No lines, but the place was hopping by evening.

In We Go!

I was excited to step inside, since the website photos kind of confused me. I needed to be convinced that the stone fireplace and timber accents were original.

At a glance, the interior stonework did have sort of a stage set feel. But the chunky limestone rocks were solid. The lobby matched up perfectly with a vintage photo from over 100 years ago.

What a crazy design, with all the curves and primitive stonework! Evidently there were some fun things built into the rock. I'm afraid I didn't find the fish and ship, in the stonework. I should have asked.

Overhanging Balcony

I snapped more pictures while Don checked us in. From the entrance, the stairs seemed to disappear into a hole in the ceiling.

When I walked past the stairs, I could see that the steps led to an s-shaped balcony. There were beams in the ceiling and stucco on the upper walls. None of this looked like a turn of the 20th century hotel, in Missouri.

Flood of 1943

Across from the stairs there was a mark on the wall, to show how high the water rose in the flood of 1943. Another photo showed the owner paddling a canoe in the lobby.

The town and hotel had already been suffering from a decline in tourism. Frequent flooding and The Depression didn't help. Sadly, the popularity of car travel lured tourists to other places. The hotel closed in 1951. 

Remodeling

A quick peek at some adjoining rooms, made me see that the space had been remodeled in recent years. We asked our chatty host a few questions.

She didn't know much of the hotel's early history, but she knew the inn was purchased in 2010, by a writer named Janet Dailey. We learned that she died a couple years after opening.

Janet Dailey had an appreciation for the hotel's history. She and her partners renovated and reopened in 2011. As we climbed the stairs I thought about what we had learned an hour earlier from another local, in the coffee shop.

As we reached the lounge area on the second floor, I wondered about the hotel's eerie past. The local woman told us there had been 2 deaths in the hotel and that she had been asked to help with a visiting ghost hunter team. Yikes. 

Up to Third Floor

Don and I headed up to the next floor, even though our room was on the second. This was the "newer" addition, but it felt older and creepier.

The curling stairway took us up to a hallway, with a thick archway and dark red painted walls.

Let's just say that both deaths occurred when guests died peacefully in their sleep... way down that hall... away from our room.

Our Corner

We booked "The Buckingham" room, which was tucked into the corner of the second floor sitting area.

The red and brown decor was a little kitschy, but I was all for it. I'm glad Ms. Dailey and her crew did not come in and gut the place. I like to visualize the past. Plus, swanky hotels have swanky rates.

Our Room

Don and I usually pick lower priced rooms when booking, but we could afford one of the hotel's bigger rooms.

We had ample space, with robes and reading lamps... and lots of history, for just over $100. And how about that red carpet!

There was a ceiling light with a hidden fan and a floor heater if needed. There was a TV, but we didn't use it. We did make use of the luggage rack and the bench at the foot of the bed. Nice perk for people who live out of suitcases!

A Room in the Old Part

I was glad our room was in the front of the older section. In the exterior photo, our 2 windows can be seen on the left.

I loved having a set of chairs and windows looking down, over the train depot.  

It was just November, but things were starting to look festive.

Bathroom

I was glad to have a window in the bathroom as well.

Pour House

It was Friday night, so we made good use of the adjoining restaurant. The tables were all filled with what appeared to be locals at 6:00.

Don and I grabbed seats at the bar. We were happy the place seemed to be popular.

Even though he was super busy, Adam took good care of us. He also had some interesting trivia about the history of Table Rock Lake. He was much more entertaining than the guy with lame jokes, sitting next to Don. No photo of him.

We ordered dinner at the bar. Onion soup, salad, burger... all delicious. I had a good time studying the old parts of the bar... and doing a little people watching through the mirrors.

Coffee & Fire

After dinner, we got an Irish Coffee and shared it by the fire. 

We flipped through old scrapbooks with hotel history and photos.  

Checking on Things

Throughout the evening, I had to check on things repeatedly. Now and then I dashed upstairs to peek out our window.

We had a great view of the Branson Scenic Railroad, when it came through and stopped a couple of times.

I also had to step outside and check on the Christmas decorations. There was a lot of activity with Santa and Elves, when the train stopped. I'm not sure what that was all about!

And I had to check on the weather. Those are big raindrops, not snow. Snow would have been nice.

Morning

We slept well and heard no train whistles in the night. I wouldn't have minded.  

In the morning we rose early and grabbed coffee, just outside our door. There were a few food options, but we headed off early to explore.

Wandering in Hollister

The town was quiet on Saturday morning. We had a nice walk and met a nice man and his dog. Here are some photos from the morning and the day before.

We found some old houses up in the hills and we found 230 steps that children once climbed, to reach the school. We found a closed antique shop and a park. I wish we'd had time to explore Turkey Creek or White River. That's probably where Daw cooled off in the summer.

What's Notable?

We stayed in a British style inn, with gables and stone and timber... but we were in the Missouri Ozarks. That's unique right there.

Most of all I loved feeling connected to the area, through my grandmother. I so wish Daw was still with us, so I could ask her questions.

Just yesterday I called my dad in Springfield and asked him what he knew of the town. "Hollister!" He answered, "We used to stay in cabins in Hollister when I was a kid." What!? Next time we visit Missouri, we'll take Dad as our tour guide!

Rustic Luxury in the Ozarks

In late November, Don and I enjoyed the scenic drive towards Big Cedar Lodge. We both chuckled to see the yellow "Bass Pro Shop" logo, above the sign. 

I wasn't sure about this. I like a little luxury now and then and I'm always game for rustic. But I'm not keen on a gimmicky combination. I've always questioned this resort, created by Johnny Morris, 30+ years ago. Would it be like staying in one his 70+, mega stores?

Convincing Me

I liked the idea of a lodge, but I hardly needed a resort. I liked the idea of staying a night in the Missouri Ozarks, but I didn't care that we'd be conveniently close to touristy town of Branson.   

Then, Don found reduced winter rates and I was suddenly game. It could be a fun stop on our Missouri road trip. It might not make the Notable Night list, but the off season prices convinced us to check the place out.

Okay, I'm Excited

We followed the road, hoping to find the registration office. With lodges and cabins scattered over thousands of acres of property, it was mind-boggling. 

The drive was pretty, even if we'd mostly missed the fall colors. That would have been spectacular. But lucky for us, Big Cedar had decorated early for Christmas. The kid in me started getting excited.

Welcome Buildings

After passing over a bridge or two, we spotted two white buildings. We could also see a glimpse of Table Rock Lake behind. 

Was that an enormous Cedar tree, to the right of the road? I believe there was a star on top of that gigantic tree!

Old or New?

As we approached the Welcome Center, I wondered if this was one of the old buildings that was saved and refurbished, when the property was bought in 1987. I liked knowing Johnny Morris appreciated old. I also liked hearing that Morris' first business was selling fishing tackle from his dad's store as a kid. He was an Ozark boy!

The white, welcome center was pretty and classic, but not historic. They did a darn good job, if I couldn't tell.

Lobby

The lobby was gigantic, with an amazing mix of rustic wood & stone. I spotted an upside down canoe, hanging near the skylight.

The center of the grand space was filled with a twinkling, winter display. ​

Above the snowy scene, was a soaring cast-iron chandelier. I spied fish and tree branches and deer. It was like searching for Hidden Pictures in my childhood Highlights magazine!
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Check In

We were greeted by a friendly woman at a massive, lobby desk.

I stood back and just stared at the textured wood, with panels of metal art. It was hard to believe this was all crafted in recent decades. Usually you have to go to historic lodges like Yellowstone, to find such large and well-made pieces.  

Quiet

I love traveling off season. On a Tuesday in November, we seemed to have the place to ourselves. I wanted to come back later and sit in this corner of the lobby, with lake-facing windows and stone fireplace.

We did return to the lobby later, but found a different spot.

We enjoyed the leather couch after the sun got lower. Just a bit of light illuminated the upper stained glass.

The lobby also held a Lincoln Log table, with cute built in seats! A nice family kindly let me join in for a bit!

The Worman House

Soon after we checked in, we found two of the original vacation homes built by Mr. Worman and Mr. Simmons. They were the wealthy Missouri men who bought 300 acres near an arm of the White River in the 1920's. That was decades before Table Rock Lake existed. The area was known as Big Cedar Hollow.  

The Worman home was a lovely stone and stucco house. The stained glass windows were gorgeous in the afternoon light. I assume the Carriage House next door, was also original. 

Simmons Log Mansion

We found the old Simmons' home, closer to our cabin. It now houses the Devil's Pool Restaurant.

I couldn't find a vintage photo showing how the "log mansion" looked, when it was the Simmons' resort home in twenties and thirties.

The log exterior was somewhat hidden behind decks and glass, but we could see the same narrow chimney, visible in the old photo.

Spring View Lodge

We wandered around the pool and spa, then peeked at the lodge next door. It was a fun surprise to find historic lodging from the 1940's.

The website didn't talk this up, but if we'd known this log lodge was historic, we'd have booked our night there. I wonder who stayed here in the '40's? Hunters, fishermen, families?
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Our Little Cottage

We booked one of the duplex cottages, across from the lodge. It looked old, but I couldn't find any info about when these were added.

We were excited to see the stone chimney and firewood, ready for burning.
​

Comfy Cozy

The cottage interior was pretty sweet. The knotty pine reminded us of some of the dusty and musty cabins we've stayed in, over the years! But we didn't spot a cobweb or catch a whiff of mildew.

It could have been a little creepy sleeping beneath a deer head, but I was in the "when in Rome" spirit. The taxidermy, antler chandelier and fox fur made it feel like an old hunting cabin. The fish on the lamps and drawers, also fit the theme.

The bed was as comfy as it gets, with the linens and Pendleton blanket. The earthy, lodge furniture was well made. Actually, I guess a real hunting cabin would never be like this!

Christmas Tree!

The biggest surprise was finding a lit Christmas tree next to the fireplace.

Later that evening we moved the Old Hickory style chair aside, so Don could make a fire.

We got into the comfy hotel robes and enjoyed tree-shaped ginger cookies, that were waiting for us... along with a recipe card.

Bathroom

The bathroom was worthy of 2 photos. I soaked in the Jacuzzi tub and took in all the features. Even the smoke detector was worth noting. It was cleverly hidden behind a metal, leaf-shaped decoration.

Everything was pretty top notch in our little bathroom from bead board to the vanity, to the Old Hickory mirror.  Only issue... a very startling jacuzzi cleaning system, with a piercing sound that made me leap in the air!

Dinner

Don and I loved not having to drive anywhere. It took 1 minute to walk to dinner. First we checked out the Buzzard Bar, in the lower level of Devil's Pool Restaurant.

The tables were full (unlike photo) when we arrived. We sat at the bar for a bit, but it was loud and the chatty man next to us, wanted to talk about nothing but himself and hunting...

Devil's Pool Restaurant

We graciously slipped away with our drinks and headed upstairs to peek into the main  dining room. The restaurant was full of guests, but nice and roomy and much quieter.

There was a wait for a table, so we headed to a different bar, connected to the restaurant.

The beautiful bar near the cozy fireplace, was totally empty. We ordered some tasty pulled pork, salad and potato soup. We dined and chatted and wondered more about the history.

What We Learned

We got a few questions answered by staff, but mostly the internet helped us piece together some of the mysteries of this huge place.

This beautiful area in the Ozarks was once home to the Osage Indians. Supposedly they were the ones who gave the name Devils' Pool, to the deep spring that was once on the property. In 1958 the river was damned to create the lake and Devil's Pool pretty much disappeared.

 
Church and Bridge

Looking at the map of the entire resort was mind boggling. It was easier to just absorb the buildings and pathways near our cottage. 

I don't believe the little church and Devil's Pool Bridge were old, but they were built nicely, into the landscape.
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Boats...

We didn't get down to the marina to see the boats, but we saw this one, with Santa.

 
Christmas Lights!

It's nice that they offer so much for those who care, but my favorite part was just wandering. The best part was walking after dark, with a chill in the air and a zillion lights.

Those Christmas lights made me a happy kid... instead of an eye-rolling teenager. It's easy for me to play travel snob. I'm too cool for a mega resort. But, luckily there was lots that pleased us. 
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Morning

We slept well in our woodsy cottage. In the morning we got coffee at the Truman Cafe. What's the history with that sweet building?

We took our warm drinks to the lobby and enjoyed a little Christmas decor before checking out.

What's Notable

Our one night at Big Cedar was full of little surprises. 

Most of all I loved discovering lots of little bits of history about the property and learning a little about the "low-key billionaire" who created this resort. Our one night was worthy and notable!

I guess not. Phillips had some issues with the building and used it mostly for storage. Thankfully, they donated the building to Price Tower Arts Center  in 2000. Today it houses hotel rooms and much more.

Bartlesville & The Tower 2019

Don and I rolled into town on a Monday afternoon, in November. It was easy to spot the skyscraper.  Oh, how I love that retro word! 

I have a feeling that this very view of the tower (with the street and shops) hasn't changed a whole lot in 60+ years.

Wright nicknamed the tower, the tree that escaped the crowded forest. The skyscraper wouldn't have looked nearly so tall and unusual, in a crowded city.  

Cantilevered Reinforced Concrete Tower

We parked in the nearby lot and headed to the lobby. The asymmetrical building looked like it was balanced at the end of a diving board. I was ready to get a huge lesson in architecture and construction. 

Nature and architecture! The tower was the tree trunk, with some kind of anchoring structure, acting as roots. The floors, "cantilevered" from the core, like branches. The outer walls were actually hanging from the floors. All mind boggling to me!

Inside!

​The lobby was quiet and colorful! We passed some curious built-in chairs, before stepping into a stunning space, now called the Taliesin Room. Josue greeted us from behind the desk.

After checking us in, he kindly gave us a bit of a mini tour. It was Monday, which meant no regular tours and no restaurant. He was pretty delightful with his enthusiasm.

Upstairs

He sent us upstairs to see the their permanent museum. He pointed out the crazy angles in the stairs and the aluminum hand rail.

In the museum, we spotted a copper panel, like the greenish ones on the exterior. It was crazy to see the bright copper as it was, before being treated to hurry the weathering effect.  
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More Museum-ing

What a treat to have this complimentary museum all to ourselves. Both of us loved the P-Tower model. Don studied it like an engineer. I looked at it with my dollhouse-maker eyes. I love miniature things and how they're made.

Originally, most of floors in Price Tower were used for office space. I wonder what kinds of things cluttered that particular desk, 60 years ago?

"Willows and Reflections" Added in 1979

Josue insisted we needed a photo of the two of us, with the 25-ft long, cloisonee mural. 

We were happy to pose with the fabulous copper & enamel, willow scene. The branches hung behind us... their shapes and colors, "reflected" in the table! So gorgeous! But, now I sort of cringe to see our silly selves in our drab colors, invading that colorful scene! ​

Upward!

Heading up to our room was an adventure! The oddly shaped core of the building, held 3 elevator shafts... or were there 4? I just remember standing in the hall center, surrounded by doors.

We stepped out to see a porcelain water fountain, a shiny, brass floor design and 4 guest room doors. 


Our "Glass-Wrapped" Room!

The hefty door let us into our 430 sq-ft room. There are 19 hotel rooms now, but none in 1956. The upper floors had been office space and the Price Family penthouse. There had been apartments and shops and businesses below.

What a great office this would have been, back in the day. I wouldn't have minded a desk job, with all those windows to distract me. Lots of sunshine too! The sheer curtains kept us from being blinded by sunlight.
​ 

Window Shades

Once inside the confusing structure, we started to make connections with what we'd seen of the exterior. Those long, horizontal windows weren't so visible from the outside. 

Once inside, we could actually open the windows to let in air. Some of the exterior copper panels worked like sun shades... just like leaves on tree branches! This was all pretty fun and curious!

Angles!

Don and I were both giddy, absorbing every nook and cranny. The room shape itself was playfully geometric. No right angles. 

There were non-parallel lines everywhere, in the furniture, wallpaper and on the fabrics and carpet.

Triangles

​I counted 10 triangle-lights on the ceiling. There were triangle shapes on the wallpaper.  

There was even a triangular waste basket, tucked into the mod desk. And look at all the electrical sockets. This 64 year old office space was built for today's technology!

Copper & Concrete

The dressing/bath end of our room was a fun mix of concrete, wood and copper. It was fun to see the exposed concrete floor with Wright's favorite, Cherokee Red.

The sink and vanity area had lots of copper, in the furniture accents, hanging light fixtures and towel rack.

Love a Quirky Bathroom!

I'm all about the memories. I'm happy to put up with some inconvenience, to have a memorable experience. I won't forget our bathroom, with its tiny green tile.

The toilet was mounted from the wall. A cantilevered toilet? Maybe not. But it amused me. Don't jails have toilets like that? And copper pipes, holding our toilet paper and towels! Love it! All was clean and fine with me!

Our oddly-shaped shower couldn't have been cuter, with its triangle shelf and seat! I was too impatient to wait for the hot water, so took a cold one... kind of like I was in jail. Don showered next and said it was wonderfully hot. And how about that great corner window?

We had a fabulous view from the bathroom window. Later when outside, I spotted our corner windows, surrounded by those greenish copper panels! The "patinated" copper represented the "leaves" of Wright's escaped tree!

More Windows!

I can't say enough about the windows. All 18 were trimmed in aluminum, with handles that reminded me of my grade school. We opened some up at 4:00 pm and heard church bells and a train whistle.

Having open windows and good weather, was a huge treat. Having window views from the 13th floor, was even better.  

Bartlesville

It was fun to see the buildings in Bartlesville and to wonder which were there when Price Tower was built.  

It seemed pretty peaceful for a small city.

Sunset and Nighttime

Since the bar was closed, we made our own drinks and toasted to the sunset, over the distant prairie landscape. Were those Osage Hills, far off?

The prairie view would have been a little more dramatic 60+ years ago, but we could see the horizon! It was dark before we headed out for dinner. The town was quiet, but we found the lively Painted Horse Bar/Cafe, within walking distance.

Morning

​We slept well with our windows open and woke to the sound of church bells. 8 chimes... at 7:00. Funny. 

We headed to floor 16 for the complimentary breakfast. The door to the hotel bar was locked, so I couldn't get a peek.  But we at least got to experience the dining space.

I think we were the only hotel guests. We had the pick of all tables in two rooms. The soft jazz music was lovely. 

The outdoor areas looked pleasant. We sipped our coffee and enjoyed the view. The breakfast options were not a bit exciting, but from everything I've heard, the restaurant itself is worth a trip to Bartlesville. Next time!

Exterior Stairs

Don and I had to take off before the first tour at 11. It seemed sinful to leave without seeing the upper floors, with Harold Price's penthouse and the corporate offices.

I'm a little confused about the timing, but Phillips basically did not end up using the building for much more than storage. These unsafe stairs were evidently one of the reasons.

One Last Look

​We checked out at 10, knowing we'd have to come back another time... for a tour and a meal and visit to the art gallery that we had also missed. But we took one last look from the outside.

Maybe we can return in the spring of 2020 when the nearby park is completed. We can do all we missed, plus have a picnic with a view of the 221-foot tree!

What's Notable?

The obvious, is that we stayed in a masterpiece created by Frank Lloyd Wright.

...be open to observing and exploring and learning about all that was created by a man in his 80's! 

This was a pretty amazing stay for about $145. in 2019! You don't have to be rich either!

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A Night in Berkeley

While visiting the San Francisco Bay area in October, Don and I decided to spend a night in Berkeley.

I kind of shy away from the word CLUB. It makes me think of exclusive country clubs... places that aren't welcoming to all. But this had once been a club for women in the twenties!  I had to read on!

The Building

Before booking, I read about the building and the woman who designed it. It was intriguing and reasonably priced! Don was game to stay, even though it had once been a club... that was not so welcoming to men... at least until 1962.  Thanks Don!

I headed in while Don parked. Street parking! That was a treat, since the night before we'd paid 76 dollars, to valet park at San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel.

Designed by Julia Morgan

As I approached the building, I only knew a few things.

I was surprised to learn that Morgan was also connected to The Fairmont, which was the hotel we had stayed in, the night before.

The Fairmont & The Earthquake

During our SF stay, Don and I learned a lot about the 1906 earthquake that devastated much of San Francisco. We learned that our lavish hotel, on top of Nob Hill survived the initial earthquake, but not the fires that followed.

​How crazy that Don and I spent two nights in a row, in hotels that were created or improved by Julia Morgan. 

Back at The Berkeley

So, as Don unloaded the car, I headed towards our sturdy, massive, building. It looked like we would be staying in some kind of Italian Palazzo-Fortress, if there is such a thing. I was ready to learn more.

Too bad we didn't have a teeny tiny earthquake during our stay... just for the ultimate test.  

 
Heading In

As I approached the entrance, I could see the concrete flowers and embellishments around the door. Molded? I guess you don't carve concrete? I know so little.

Was this the entrance? Was this actually a hotel? I saw no obvious signs. I felt hesitant walking towards the door, since I couldn't remember if I'd gotten confirmation, when booking.

I glanced at the windows. The columns and arches reminded me of a fairytale castle.  The doors with their diamond-paned leaded glass, were mighty impressive... and locked. I buzzed a buzzer and heard a voice. "May I help you?"

Church Time?
​
I heard a click and worked with two hands to open the heavy door.

This was my first glimpse at the interior! Wow! I hoped this wasn't a flubbed reservation, because I really wanted to stay in this building. It looked like a church and I've never spent the night in a church. 

Check In

To the right of the entrance was a desk, where I spotted two women looking over paperwork. This is the only photo I took that includes a peek at that space.

The women who quietly worked behind the desk reminded me of librarians or nuns or professors. I felt like I should whisper when I inquired about our reservations. 

We Are Guests

Whew, I was helped by a very kind woman who found our reservations. This was indeed our hotel.

However, this lovely Gothic building offered much more than hotel rooms. Locals can become City Club members and use the numerous lounge and meetings spaces... or the amazing pool, which was down this hall. 

I was in awe of the vaulted ceilings and the wrought-iron chandeliers. I was very much in love with the sweet bear-like creatures who were perched here and there, when I walked up the stairs.

Elevators

We were glad we didn't have to hike the stairs with our bags up to our 5th floor room.

However the old elevators were a little slow and wonky. Luckily they got us to the floor and the clanky noise didn't bother us in our room... which was next to the elevators.

Quiet Hall

We peeked down the hallways before stepping into our room.

There are now 38 hotel rooms, but I had the feeling we were the only guests. I wondered about the women who used to stay here in the 30's and 40's. 

Simple

Our corner room was simple and basic.  The door almost bonked the corner of the queen bed, when we opened.

There was no TV, but we had some appealing artwork and great windows for our entertainment. I'm not being at all sarcastic. It was peaceful and cozy.

I liked the old radiators and the wicker chair for lounging or reading. The desk was very sweet. I wish it could have inspired me to write a letter... or a novel.

Love the Bathroom

If I had been staying a month, I might have hoped for a little more bathroom luxury. But we were staying one night. I actually loved this oddly shaped bathroom. I felt like I was in a film noir movie scene, when I brushed my teeth.

The floor and tub tile was retro fun. The curtain around the trough-like tub, meant Don got his shower and I got to soak. The wooden medicine cabinet was handy with its little shelf. The frosted, metal-framed window opened up, to a view of the campus!

But, we actually spent little time in the room.

Exploring!

It was time to get out and explore the City Club Building.

It was late on a Monday afternoon and all seemed very quiet.

Don and I searched for a good place to relax a bit before dinner. The library was nice, but there were a couple of men quietly studying their laptops. We moved on.

We found a piano and maybe I should have played! This Women's Club was after all, created to give women a place for social, cultural and recreational activity.  

The Pool!

I was the most excited about seeing the pool, designed by Julia Morgan, over 90 years ago.

The 75-foot pool was empty, when we peeked at it from the viewing deck. I wonder if there were any swimmers at 5 am when it opened? I didn't check.

Later, we found a different door that took us to the pool deck, where we could see the beautiful arches and columns reflected in the water.

All To Ourselves

​With no swimmers, the water was smooth enough to study the tile work. It was tempting to grab our suits and make use. But I saw a sign that said something about swim caps. Really?

We explored the locker rooms since no one was around. Don wandered through the men's area and I went through the women's. It looked like there were a few "men's" dressing rooms, spilling over into the women's area. Hmm?

Medievel-Style Cloisters

There were some outside areas that we could have enjoyed, but the sun was getting low.

From the stairs, I peeked out one of the diamond panes and saw a little bas-relief panel on the wall. Surprises everywhere!

​Auditorium

While wandering upstairs, we saw some activity, through the door to the auditorium. A very gracious man invited us in to look around.

He told us they were setting up an event. He shared a little history and encouraged us to peek out at the covered terrace/walkway. He gave us some suggestions for exploring the campus, later. Nice guy!

Mystery Room

We continued to wander and wonder. I wasn't sure how this room was used today, but it was fun imagining it, when the Club opened in the thirties. Did women gather for lectures or musical performances? Were there once tables for reading and research?

The Women's Club Movement was much more than a social club. Women gathered to engage in recreation as well as education. They joined to get involved in civic activities and to rebuild their personal lives. 

Morgan's Bar and Lounge

The hotel's bar looked classy, with dark wood bar and spacious seating. We were so disappointed it was closed on Monday.

We have learned so many wonderful tidbits from locals, in hotel bars. Being a block from Berkeley's campus and being associated with the City Club, we could have met some very interesting people here.

Our Spot!

Since the bar was closed, we decided to make ourselves drinks in the room and carry them to one of the sitting rooms.

There were lots of game options. I spotted Scrabble and a chess board, nearby.   

Books and Art

But I was more drawn to the art and books. The walls held an exhibit by Risa Lenore. Beneath each painting was the "forgotten snapshot" that inspired the art. Oh how I love that idea!

Then we both flipped through some nearby books. I took a photo of one book, with plans to put it on my Christmas list. What a beautiful (and informative) book!

Exploring Campus

Before dinner, we wandered the campus on a balmy Monday night. We were impressed to see so many students out and about. Clusters of activity... dance, Taekwondo, drumming, yoga. 

As advised earlier, we wandered to Hearst Gymnasium, one of Julia Morgan's designs. It was spooky on the outside, but inside it was bright and active. Open doors revealed ballet and tango classes, karate and EMS training classes.

It was clearly Berkeley 2019. It was not 1929 or 1969! We wandered a few more blocks for a Chinese feast, then back to sleep well, at The Club!

Morning

We woke to sunshine, through our 3 windows. We dressed and headed early to Julia's Restaurant, for our complimentary breakfast.

It was extra nice having the breakfast option, since the restaurant had been closed the night before.

The simple buffet was not memorable, but the setting was perfect. There was an ornate fireplace and mirror, at one end. A wall of windows, looked out to a terrace, with potted flowers.

What a fun bit of news! RBG had been speaking at an auditorium, just a block away! It's too bad she couldn't have stopped by the historic Women's Club, afterwards... to mingle with the spirits of Julia Morgan and all the women from long ago... who would have fainted with joy to know that someday we would have a woman on the Supreme Court!

Our stay exceeded expectations!

I didn't allow myself to dwell on that too much, when we headed from our rental car into the land of luxury!

The Lobby

The enormous lobby was as magnificent as we remembered. Don and I briefly visited the hotel 3 years ago and put it on our "must stay here" list.

I remembered the swirling marble columns. They almost looked edible, like chocolate-caramel cheesecake!

The gilded ceiling detail made me think of empty frames. ​

I wanted some high scaffolding so I could pretend to be Michelangelo. What could I have painted inside those golden shapes?

​Check In

We checked in at the desk and I asked a few questions. I was sad when I discovered the key boxes were just for show. I really wanted to use a brass key with a gold tassel. 

I made sure to ask about the hours for the famed Tonga Room, that Don and I visited in 2016. Our desk clerk was excited to tell us the tropical bar/restaurant was open at 5, with live music at 8. Yay! Luckily we had packed the proper clothes for Tiki Time!

Wandering

There is something like 55,000 square feet of "function space" at the Fairmont. That doesn't include the restaurants. The place is big... 591 guest rooms & suites!  We got a little lost just looking for the proper elevator. But wandering is very fun at The Fairmont.

We took in lots of details in the lobby. The glass vases on the center table were lovely.​

Earthquake of 1906

I wandered early the next morning to take photos without people. It's easier to imagine the past with no guests on cell phones. The palms in their decorative containers, looked very vintage Hollywood to me! 

I tried to imagine what this space looked like in 1906, when the great earthquake hit San Francisco. The hotel had just been completed, but it took another year of repair before they opened. The building survived the earthquake, but the fires that followed, damaged the interior. 

Nearly 20 presidents have stayed at the Fairmont. Nearly all from President Taft to President Obama, have been guests. They probably used a secret elevator.

Celebs

There have been more celebrities than presidents though. I heard that Frank Sinatra always requested the same room on the second floor, so he didn't have to use the elevator. Imagine meeting him on the stairs!

I couldn't resist climbing! How often do you get to walk up marble steps and slide your hand over such a sleek railing. No one during our visit seemed to be using the stairs, so I felt like a little kid alone on the landing, spying down on my parents' party.

Statues and Mirrors

I wouldn't want to live in a palace with such decadence, but I loved being a guest for a night. I had to pause to study the marble lion and gold mirror. There are some surprises in that mirror frame, when you look closely.

The hotel's interior made a dramatic change in 1945. Dorothy Draper was the most famous interior designer of the time and she was called in for a major facelift. She brought in her "Modern Baroque" and transformed the hotel with her bold red fabrics and black lacquer.  It wasn't until 1999, that they removed her red carpet that covered the marble lobby floors.

The Venetian Room

We only had a quick peek in the Venetian Room. Evidently Ms. Draper's remodeling of this grand ballroom was really what got the hotel out of its slump in 1947. It became quite the dinner club.

 

Cirque Room

I love a good circus theme, so I was pretty curious about this fabulous Art Deco Bar.

There were 9 colorful murals, painted by the famed Bruton sisters, in 1933.  This was years before Ms. Draper did her decorating thing!

This whimsical space with all its curves and colors, was the first bar to open in San Francisco after the repeal of Prohibition. Sadly it was not open to us, during our stay. ​

Finding Our Room

We could have booked a room in the 23-story tower, that was added in 1961. The views are spectacular from most of those rooms.

But Don and I always prefer the historical experience (and sometimes the price) of staying in original rooms. We headed up to the third floor and down a hall, with some nice black and white photographs. When we stepped into our room 332, a classy photo image greeted us in the entry.

The room itself wasn't grand or over the top, but it was large and nicely updated, with more photos of San Fran scenes. Love it! The bathroom wasn't memorable, but I appreciated having a tub.

The bed, pillows and linens were comfy soft. There were good lamps and tables and a large TV. The colors were calm. No signs of Dorothy Draper.

There was a surprise Anniversary treat, waiting on a plate! The "N" was a chewy brownie and the chocolate covered strawberries were juicy-sweet. Luckily our comp snack made the "room bar" goodies less tempting. Don laughed when he picked up the tiny Pringles container. "Seven dollars?" 

View!

We didn't have a Tower Room with a view of The Bay, but we had a great view of the rooftop "Square" below.

The view was like a picture and I loved looking at it, through the original wood-framed window. The thick window was the only thing in the room that reminded me that our hotel was over a century old.

The Square

In the evening and morning, we enjoyed a little time exploring the rooftop garden that we could see from our room. Green grass, flowers, palms, trickling fountain... and an herb garden and honey beehives.

The garden gave us a good place to check out the architecture of the old hotel. We never figured out which room was ours. It did make us wonder about the rooms with terraces!

More Views From Square

When I walked to the railing of the garden, I found the best view. 

What fun watching cable cars going up and down Powell Street, just below. And there was Coit Tower and the Bay! That view inspired us to do some walking the next day.

Evening at Fairmont!

By 5:00, we were in our tiki clothes and on our way to the Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar!

We headed down the elevator to find the basement lounge which opened in 1945, when the hotel's pool was cleverly transformed into a Polynesian lagoon.

Here's a photo from 3 years ago, when Don and I sipped tiki cocktails and grinned at the floating band boat. We laughed each time a thunderstorm rumbled down on the water!

No Tonga Time for Us!

On the evening of our anniversary, we headed past some vintage displays and moved towards the glowing space. Then we were stopped by a man who announced, "We are closed for an event. Sorry." My jaw dropped. The man didn't really seem to care that we'd been told at the desk that it opened at 5. He wasn't impressed that it was our 40th anniversary and we'd come from Houston. He certainly didn't get the significance, when I told him I'd bought my flamingo dress online just for this night!  But he did take our photo and yes we smiled.

It would have been easier to take the news, if the doors had been closed. But we were able to see the Microsoft "event people" sitting around on laptops, using the space like an airport lounge. In fact Microsoft was using almost every event space in the hotel. I'm still trying not to be mad at Microsoft.

More Stairs

But, there was no time for sulking. We headed up another grand staircase.

The marble stairs brought us up to the Laurel Court Restaurant and Bar. 

When we visited 3 years ago, a piano player performed under the middle of 3 domes.

There was no piano music at 5:30 on our anniversary night, but the 3-domed space was lovely. Plus it was open. We can't take things like that for granted. In fact the whole Laurel Court space was closed down for 6 decades.

We made a quick costume change, (I just grabbed a sweater) and returned to the lounge where we made a toast to ourselves with French 75s! We thought about dining in the rounded room with ionic columns and murals... but we decided to move on.
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Off to Explore!

We celebrated the fact we were staying in the one of the best locations in San Francisco and we took off walking.

We had a drink at the top of Sir Francis Drake Hotel and we had a ridiculously fun, retro bite at Sears Fine Food!

Then we headed towards our hotel, but made a stop just across the street, at the Mark Hopkins. Drinks at "Top of the Mark" and then back to The Fairmont, where the flags welcomed us back.

Morning at Fairmont
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The next morning, we woke to lovely weather. We enjoyed our comfy hotel until late morning, then took advantage of our location once again. The hotel held our bags and allowed us to keep our car in valet until 4!

We headed off, walking DOWN Powell Street towards Fisherman's Wharf... with detours to Grace Cathedral and Chinatown. We ate lobster rolls and rode the cable car up to Nob Hill. One more perk of our hotel... All cable car lines meet at the top of Nob Hill, near the hotel.

What's Notable?

We had a great 24 hour stay at The Fairmont. Besides the glitches (due to Microsoft's takeover) the hotel was lovely and we were treated well.

There's so much we did not see or sample, but we had a ball... without making use of any of the numerous, ballrooms!  We didn't stay in a lavish suite, or even explore the Tower. We didn't get pampered in the spa and we didn't even wine and dine properly. We might have had a little more royal treatment if we'd spent more, but we left happy and full of memories and knowledge!

Did I mention those international flags on the porte-cochere? In 1945 The Fairmont hosted meetings that led to the creation of the United Nations! Wow! I love hotels with history! 

​Sweet Hotel in a Tiny Town

In October, Don and I spent one night in a cozy historic hotel, that was once called the Temperance House. 

I imagine the town had plenty of saloons and  hotels back in the day. Our sweet 2-story hotel overlooking the Pacific, was probably the only one that didn't smell like liquor.
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141 Years Later

When we pulled into town last month, the sweet yellow structure looked like a building from an old Western movie set... except for those cars.  

Today Mendocino has only about 900 residents, but tourism keeps things busy. Since it was October, we were able to pull up right in front. I think it's a different story in the summer, when there are more tourists than parking spaces.

Fifties to the Seventies

By mid-century, the dying lumber industry caused the town to shrink. Loggers were replaced by artists... at least that's what I heard.

Jennifer didn't say anything about the old hotel, but it was nearly a century old by the time she visited the town.   

Check In

It was fairly quiet in the parlor when we arrived around 4. We stepped inside to see some of the renovations that took place in 1975 when the rundown property was purchased, by R.O. Peterson.

I glanced up at the stained glass above us as we headed towards the desk. I'm guessing that was added in the seventies. I wish I could have found some before and after photos.

Don got us checked us in, through the window of the lovely Victorian lobby desk. The staff was friendly and not nearly as formal as the decor surrounding us.

I peeked in the bar, knowing it would be crowded later. I liked the little gremlin holding up the back bar. Obvious there was nothing original here, since The Temperance House served no liquor.

The Parlor

The polished steel fireplace was my favorite. It wasn't original to the hotel, but I believe it was over 200 years old.

A storm was predicted, so Don and I grabbed two chairs right in front of the fire. I was hoping for some real weather drama, but we only had a light rain.

Mendocino Cafe

The restaurant was all prepared and ready for guests at 5. It was Friday, so we expected some crowds.

We were warned by a head waiter (or someone who seemed to be in charge) to arrive before 8 if we wanted to be served. He explained that October was not their busy season, so they close when there's no business. We kept that warning in mind.

​​Tables by the Window

We decided to go for the less formal dining tables, in the parlor.

We grabbed a table by a window, although it was dark by then. My clam chowder was yummy and huge. Don's crab cakes were good, but tiny. 

Guest Rooms

The hotel website was a little confusing, since they described rooms in the original hotel and luxury Garden Suites in a different area.

We of course chose the oldest part of the hotel and yes, it did feel old! Our room #9 was in the back, at the end of a long and narrow hall. The warped floor was covered in worn carpet and creaked a bit on our journey.

I'm pretty sure we had the smallest room in the hotel. The flowered bed spread was faded and the satiny shams and dust ruffle had tear or two. But we did have a bathroom, behind two grand doors! (Some of the rooms had shared baths in the hall)  

Tall Window

Beside our tall window, sat the only chair in the room. I tried to sit once and the thing scared me with its sway. I let it hold my sweater instead.

The window looked out to the back of the property. I was sorry that it had been painted closed. But luckily the weather was decent and our room wasn't too stuffy. I think heating and cooling issues are common.

The Garden

We could access the back porch through a door in the hall. Somewhere back in all the garden growth, was the additional guest housing. Since rain was starting up, we didn't make good use of the garden.

I wondered about the wooden water towers that were scattered all over the small town. There's history to these towers, I'm sure.

From the rear, we could see the hotel's large tower and the curious shape of the old building.

The Front Balcony

I was a little jealous of the rooms that looked out on the front balcony.

However there was access to the balcony for all guests. Maybe I wouldn't have wanted a room, with guests sitting right outside my window.

Checking it Out

Don and I always make good use of hotel porches and verandas. 

We had hoped to have a glass of wine in the evening, on this one.

But the evening rain prevented that. Instead, we took our coffee out to the porch in the morning.

What an amazing view!

The Town!

Our very favorite hotel memories include stays where we enjoyed the hotel AND its surroundings. In the morning, Don and I made good use of the area around our hotel!

It's easy to see why movies have been filmed here! How is it possible that we simply walked out the hotel door and saw all this, on a morning stroll?

What's Notable?

This hotel stay was not about the hotel room.

Our memory of this hotel will be about the cozy fireplace in the parlor and the view from the upper porch AND the peaceful walk the next morning. Good memory for $143!

Then I looked on the website and saw the immaculate two-story hotel, with all its trim.

On Main Street Since 1890

It was hard to believe the hotel was nearly 130 years old. It almost looked like something created for Disney World's Main Street. 

The solid structure, known as the Russ Building, originally housed the Ferndale Bank on the first floor. The second floor held single rooms, suites, water closets and fireplaces. The Stick Style Eastlake Victorian, was built of Redwood on a brick foundation. 


Decorated Bay Windows

The elaborate Italianate detail surrounding the windows, was stunning. 

The hexagonal window was the most impressive. I found a photo from 1891, that showed a tower, extending up from that corner window. No cone shape above the window now, but still amazing!

Finding the Door

The double doors on the corner had a sign that sent us to a side entrance.

We followed the iron, hitching post horses and found a door leading to an entry, between lobby and restaurant.

In the entry, we found a friendly statue of a champion mule, named Loretta Jones. Loretta evidently once belonged to the current owner. I kind of liked her, with her festive leaf necklace. I greeted her every time we passed.

Lobby/Shop

We found the check-in desk in the back of Silva's Jewelry Store. That seemed odd at first, since it seemed like a grand hotel, should have a grand lobby.

But it made more sense when I remembered this area had been a bank before it was a hotel. It made even more sense when I learned that the current owners were gemologists long before they were hotel owners. They fell in love with the old hotel years ago and made Ferndale their new home.

Second Floor

We checked in and carried our bags past my horse friend and up a stairway. The second story held about 15 rooms.

A skylight brightened the dramatic landing with all its dark woodowork.

Hallway

I'm not sure what was behind the double doors at the end of the hall. 

Maybe it was the fancy corner suite, with the fabulous bay window.

Room #210 - The Olivia  

Our room actually had 2 doors. The first was near the cuckoo clock. It had some elaborate woodwork around the transom, but no number and no door knob. 

The next door was the entrance to our guest room... which had once been 2 rooms. When the second story was renovated, rooms were all expanded. Now, every other door opens to a room.

​Victorian Red

I had already peeked on the website to see our room, but I was still pleasantly surprised.

The room was much larger and fresher and comfier than I expected.

I'm all for authentic furniture, but it's a treat to have a luxurious king bed, instead of an antique standard. The red velvet couch was much more comfortable than it looked. The 14 foot ceilings removed any gloom, that an old hotel might offer.

Books or TV?

I had to laugh at the tiny TV on the cabinet across from the bed. I think they should have hidden that little modern reminder, inside the cabinet. 

As always, I was delighted that we had two bedside tables with lamps. That's common in chain hotels, but not expected in historic ones. I'd rather read a book than watch a tiny TV. The hotel was very quiet, so I appreciated the floor fan, which had a nice hum for sleeping.  
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Two Bathroom Pics

I always keep bathroom expectations low in old hotels. But, we had a decent sized bathroom with a window that went practically from floor to ceiling.

I liked the bathroom so much I had to take 2 photos. I especially liked the little pair of marble top tables... for our own stuff. It was nice having a tub and ample fluffy towels. If we'd needed a flashlight, there was one attached to the nightlight. If we'd needed a plunger (yikes) there was one nicely hidden inside a cloth bag, tied with a ribbon. Classy! No sarcasm there.

View

I do love windows and we had a few. It was nice having a view of the pretty town and sky, in the evening and morning.

Best of all, the window let me study the intricate trim up close.  Were those Christmas lights, outlining the building? I should have stepped out after dark to have a peek.

After Dark

It was dark soon after we checked in. There might have been some dining options in the small town, but we checked out the hotel's cozy tavern.

We sat at the old leather-top bar and took in the festive fall decor on the back bar. I was happy to see no fake cobwebs. We've stayed at too many old hotels in October and I get tired of that.

Cheers

Don and I celebrated with a Martini and Cosmo, made by our bartender named Brandy. We figured she gets enough comments about her perfect bartender name, so we talked about other things.

I spotted a nearby couple drinking coffee and decided they must be the owners. The place wasn't busy, so I headed over to the table beneath the beautiful ships and inquired.  I was right, and Lowell said I made his day, when I raved about the hotel.

VI Restaurant

We watched a few people come and go through the doorway to the Dining Room. "VI" was the name of the restaurant. It took me a while to realize those weren't Roman numerals, but initials.

There was a cozy area around a fireplace and a large space filled with dining tables. But we decided to stay put in the tavern.

Baby Spinach and Sliders

​Our meal was just right. My salad had squash, strawberries, walnuts, raspberry vinaigrette and Humboldt Fog cheese. Brandy had to explain that Humboldt was the county we were in... which gets a lot of ocean fog.

Don had pulled pork sliders. He happens to love pickles, so he was extra impressed. I loved the green apple coleslaw.

Morning

Before bed, we helped ourselves to coffee in the second floor sitting area. Decaf options meant I slept well in our luxurious bed, with humming fan.

In the morning, we got up early and walked around the charming town... or should I call it a village? There are over 200 Victorian buildings and a cemetery that climbs up a steep hill, on the edge of town. It was the perfect morning walk.

Breakfast

Breakfast was included with our stay, so took a window seat in the VI Restaurant. What huge windows!

Our eggs, bacon and potatoes were served by a sweet young "Texan" named Katie. We were delighted to share some Texas stories, mostly about her hometown of Bastrop. She had gone to school with our favorite young, talented blues musicians, The Peterson Brothers.  Oh how I love surprise conversations when we're traveling. I wish she could have pulled up a chair.

What's Notable?

Our stay at The Victorian was a package deal. I feel like we experienced the hotel and town, all together. The combination was just lovely, but it was it too perfect? I wondered, "What's the catch?"

During our morning walk, I kept an eye out for flaws. However, I didn't spot any tacky t-shirt shops or glitzy, ritzy, overpriced gift shops. I saw locals greeting one another on the sidewalk. I saw a resident or two in their yards. I even saw the pharmacist from Rexall Drugs, strolling down the walk with a mug of coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other. He said "Good Morning!" with a big smile. 

Okay, this hotel and town made me happy. I think we need to move!