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Inn on the Plaza Recently we spent 2 nights in Healdsburg, a charming town in northern Sonoma County.  Don and I first visited Healdsburg nearly a decade ago. We noticed the hotel sitting on the south side of the Plaza.  We finally got to stay, last May! Historic Kruse Building I found this vintage photo that shows the building at the turn of the century.  The building hasn't changed all that much in 126 years. However, the use of the building has. When it opened in 1901, there were 4 businesses on the second floor, each with a bay window. The first floor held a Healdsburg Shoe House, and a few other shops. Fresh and New The lobby looked bright and modern when we arrived on a Tuesday afternoon.  The modern decor was lovely, but I was happy to see some of the original features, like the staircase.
Originally there was no other building on the other side of the exposed brick wall. Today the there's an ice cream shop sharing that wall. Finding Our Room Our host at the desk was very welcoming and walked us to our room in the Carriage House.
We could opt to walk through the hotel, or use a key to open a gate near the sidewalk. The gate opened to a passage between buildings and I loved peeking at some of the old brick. Evidently much of the exterior brick was damaged in the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. Upstairs to #12 Our room was upstairs in what had once been the old Carriage House.  We had to climb a few stairs. I caught a glimpse of the rear of the hotel from the top of the stairs.  We stepped onto the balcony before entering. We made good use of that later.  The room with king bed and fireplace was very comfy. Although I did whack my shin on the corner of the bed frame. A month later, my scar is reminding me, that I need to invent a cushy corner cover that I can pack for travels!  We made good use of the fireplace when temps dropped later!  Our balcony view was pretty and private, with lush spring growth.  Our balcony also had a view of the restaurant next door and a parking lot, but no need for pictures of that.
We made good use of our private balcony with coffee in the morning.  Later, we ate deli sandwiches at the table. Hmm? Who took the photos of the relaxing couple on the balcony? Gotta love a camera timer. Sitting Area There was a bonus room, sitting area, between our bedroom and bathroom.  Besides 2 nice comfy chairs, we had a coffeemaker and fridge, a wardrobe and another TV. The bathroom area was divided into 2 rooms. There was lots of counter and shelf space in the room with double sinks.  I always appreciate a good tub for soaking! Exploring the Hotel There are only 12 guest rooms in the hotel, so I didn't expect to find too much when I went exploring. But I always love to peek around.  The trip up the beautiful staircase was a start.  The building became an inn over twenty years ago and I'm not sure how many changes were made. It's possible this staircase was actually moved. A skylight at the top of the stairs offered lots of light.
There was a tiny hall with 2 doors at jaunty angles. I picture a slapstick moment when 2 guests decide to exit their rooms at the same time. Wine and Breakfast Just past the hall with the comical doors, there were a few steps leading to a room filled with skylights, tables and windows. This space was actually right above the neighboring ice cream shop.
The first evening we attended the complimentary wine and cheese hour. Besides sipping and nibbling a bit, we ended up having a great conversation with Mary Anne and Joel who were celebrating an anniversary. What a wonderful hour we spent gabbing about everything from diaries to bagels. In the mornings we returned to the upstairs room and enjoyed the view of The Plaza while we ate a complimentary breakfast.
The food options were a little different on both days.
We met the cook, who did a wonderful job! The Mexican egg dish and potatoes were outstanding. Lobby Chats Both mornings, we headed down the stairs and chatted with our host.  We had lots of questions and she filled us in on a few things, but mostly we pondered the same questions. I noticed a framed photo near the lobby desk that got me wondering.  I could see that the old Kruse Building stood alone in the photo. I wondered about the lovely nearby courthouse, which is no longer in Healdburg. I was told the grand building did not survive the 2006 earthquake. Stepping Out Both mornings were lovely for walking after breakfast.  The trees in front of the ice cream shop sort of hid the 6 windows on the second floor. The building where we'd eaten breakfast was obviously added after 1906. The Plaza The Plaza in front of the hotel had a bandstand and a rather modest fountain.  To me the star features of The Plaza, were the amazing trees. The towering redwoods and palms seemed to be competing for a height prize. Funny how small the trees looked in the vintage photo. Location Being near The Plaza itself was a plus, but it was the restaurants and shops around square that made our location ideal. The restaurants we tried were fabulous. There are actually 5 Michelin recognized restaurants in Healdsburg. And Healdsburg is small! What's Notable? Don and I spend a lot of time jumping from 1 hotel to the next. It was a treat to have 2 days and 2 nights to enjoy our stay at Healdsburg Inn.
Our stay involved an historic building. The Kruse building was beautifully refurbished and decorated and that wasn't really a surprise. We were staying in the heart of the wine country, an area that lures finicky travelers. The room wasn't cheap. But we were sort of surprised to find ourselves so comfortable with the host and other guests. Our stay felt homey and classy at the same time. We much enjoyed the comp wine and breakfast! The inn's location was beyond ideal and our isolated room was a treat, with its lovely balcony. Next time I might go for a room in the old building. One of the 4 rooms, with a bay window facing The Plaza. That would be perfect!
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First Time This was our first visit to the City of Palms. Sadly we had less than 24 hours to enjoy.  Our reason for the Fort Myers stop, was to see family. Our welcoming stay at Hibiscus House, ended up making me extra eager to return. Palms I lived in Tallahassee as a kid, but never made it to the City of Palms.  Actually I didn't even know about that nickname when we drove into the city, on McGregor Blvd. The historic boulevard was lined with Royal Palms. Evidently 1,800 of them! Hibiscus B&B on the Boulevard Our cozy House-Turned-B&B-Oasis was waiting for us, right on McGregor.  The Florida pine house looked quaint and homey, under those towering palms. Over a Century Old We learned later that the house was built in 1912... or 1923 depending on what you read. The home however was not built at this Mc Gregor Blvd location, (south side of the Caloosahatchee River) A framed article inside the inn, explained!  The house was built by W.H.Dowling, on north side of the river. After Dowling (the owner of the successful lumber company) died in 1944, his widow Hallie had the house moved across the river. Split in Half... then Worse This 2009 article explains how the house was sawed in half and carried on barges... until both "sank in the river"!  Luckily the tide rose and freed the structures. Wow! Coffee Corner Today the white house on the corner is a B&B, with 5 guest rooms and a coffee shop.
The entrance to the Hibiscus House is on the north side. We were intrigued to see steps on the side facing Clifford Street. There were no doors at the top of the stairs, like in the old photos. 4:00 We arrived around 4. Our host had texted a few helpful tips before we parked in a tidy parking lot behind the inn.  We found a walkway to the right that took us to the east side of the house. There were 2 sets of stairs leading to second floor rooms.
Our door was tucked in beside the second set. I love second story rooms, but my lazy side on that day was happy to have only 3 steps. Flamingo Room Of course I booked the pink and turquoise room filled with flamingos! I love a colorful theme!  I counted over 20 flamingos in our room.  The comfy room had Old Florida charm, with its pine walls and ceiling, painted white.  Our room felt fresh and clean, despite the fact it was over 100 years old. I appreciated having a fridge and 2 soft chairs with a table.
... a dressing mirror and a bookcase. Even a handy door draft stopper, which could also be used for blocking light or sounds from the hall. Snazzy Bathroom I started to add another flamingo when I saw the stained glass in the bathroom. That's actually a heron, but it was a colorful & tropical addition!
There was ample space for holding "stuff". And the deep bath with jets was another added treat for me. Stepping Outside It was nice having a door to the hall, plus another door to slip out of easily, for a walk, or a trip to the car.
There was a sitting space just steps from our room. I explored and noticed that all the rooms had some kind of outside sitting area. That's always a plus.
This sitting space on the opposite side, was very close to a lovely hibiscus plant. I was glad to find some on the property! Interior When we opened our other door, we found a hall with more painted pine and a staircase. We learned later, that the narrow carpet covers a slight lump, where the 2 house haves came back together after their river journey.
Right beside our door was a welcoming surprise. Words on a blue sign invited us to borrow towels or sunscreen products, if we were going off for a beach day. Even a "Boogie Board" was available. What a generous gesture from our hosts! Reunion Time At 6:30 Don and I slipped off to meet my Uncle Dave and my cousin and her son.  We drove just a few miles south on McGregor and suddenly found ourselves at a table with this sweet trio. Dinner at Christoph's. This is what the whole roadtrip detour to Ft Myers was all about. It couldn't have worked out better. Peaceful Night Once we were back at the Hibiscus House, I regretted having only one night.
Our little reunion had been far too short. And I could have happily enjoyed this pleasant peaceful house for a few more nights. Hibiscus Latin Cafe Early the next morning, I could smell coffee brewing. The little coffee shop in front, was open for business.  What had once been a sunroom, had recently become a coffee shop with Cuban-inspired flavors. The evening before I snapped a photo after it closed.  Don and I headed out of our room at 8:00 and there were a few locals placing orders. Complimentary Breakfast Don and I found a table in the breakfast room next to the coffee shop.  We had the place to ourselves and felt pretty delighted to have quite a few options with our breakfast. Chatting with Lisette After we helped ourselves to coffee and juice and an assortment of breads, yogurts, meats and cheeses, we met our host, Lisette.  Lisette let us know that as guests we were welcome to place a complimentary order from the coffee shop as well. I so wish we hadn't already filled up. The smells of coffee and Cuban pastries and sandwiches were tempting. But we'd already satisfied breakfast craving. We chatted instead.  It was nice to get some of the inside scoop about our hotel from Lisette. She purchased the hotel with her husband and daughter in 2023. They've done an amazing job of restoring the property. Less Than an Hour We had less than an hour before we needed to hit the road. After hearing from Lisette about the Historic River District surrounding H House. I had to give myself a quick tour.  I threw on my running shoes and crossed Clifford Street and headed down McGregor to catch a glimpse of the historic winter estates of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford! On my way back to H House, I detoured a couple blocks to see the Caloosahatchee River! So much to see within a couple miles of our inn. What's Notable? This historic little house was absolutely perfect for our needs. Charming, clean, quiet and comfy along with great history and a convenient location.  I'm so glad we got to meet Lisette, who made us even more appreciative of this little gem, in such a great little city! We need to come back and enjoy a longer visit next time!
Beachside Hotel in Sarasota Last April, Don and I made a detour on a trip, so I could spend time in Sarasota and stay at this unique beachside hotel.  Planning beachside anything is always a win. But I was plain eager to just spend the night in Sarasota. I have fond memories of childhood summers spent in this fabulous Circus Town! The Cirque & Circus Decor In 2025 I heard about the freshly renovated hotel, with the long name. I was drawn to the French word for circus! I love a good circus theme anytime, anywhere. But the idea that this hotel's decor was inspired by Sarasota's connection to Ringling Bros. Circus, made it all extra intriguing. The town became the winter home to the Ringlings and their circus, in the 1920s.  I read about the hotel's sophisticated circus-themed design. "Art Deco Meets the Big Top." They did it well! Nothing kitschy. No creepy clown figures or sawdust. Guests don't need to be big circus fans (like me) to relax in the lobby, restaurant or guest room. Location The hotel's location was a huge plus. It was just a short walk from the upscale shops and restaurants at St. Armands Circle. The St. Armands district was actually developed by circus magnate John Ringling, in the 1920s.  Location to Lido Beach was even closer! Holiday Inn Postcard The 7-story hotel first opened as a Holiday Inn, in 1970. In this image you can see the pool beside the parking lot and an entrance facing the wide sandy beach.  The exterior doesn't look over-the-top fancy, but I would have loved it if my family had been able to stay here when we visited in the '60s and '70s. Most of our memories involve worn out motels near Sarasota Bay. Changes When Don and I arrived at the hotel last April, the building looked pretty similar to the image on this postcard. However, they no longer have a 7th floor restaurant.  There is no drive-up area facing the beach. And there's certainly no iconic neon Holiday Inn sign. Finding Cirque In fact we never found a sign at all. (coming later maybe) But GPS guided us through a beautiful neighborhood, directly to a parking lot facing away from the gulf.  We walked up the ramp through some pleasant landscaping. The building looked fresh and attractive. I could see the top floor restaurant had been turned into guest rooms. Greeters! There were no doormen or valets, but we saw some other greeters wearing formal bowties.  This pair of green lions gave us a little hint that we might be stepping into a hotel filled with fun surprises.  I should have asked if these lions were given names. Lobby Once inside we were greeted by welcoming desk staff and fabulous decor.  Behind the classy looking counter, I spied lots of circus related accents. There were no funky circus collectables from flea markets. We've seen a lot of that when visiting a few overdone circus-themed hotels and restaurants. Fun at Check-In I had fun reading this sign while we checked in. I learned that my Circus Name is "Binzo The Thrilling Baton Twirler!" Silliness! I love it!  The best thing about check-in was finding out that we'd been upgraded to an ocean view! After a little more chatting at check-in, I learned that what I'd written in the comment section, (while booking online) had gotten some attention. I'd totally forgotten that I'd written anything, but then recalled my little ramble. I'd mentioned that I was excited to be staying in Sarasota for the first time since childhood... and that I was delighted about the classy circus themed decor... Jillian at the desk added, "Oh yes, we really do read and appreciate these comments!" Circus Inspired I'd seen photos on the internet, but I was blown away by the bright and creative design! The ostrich feather chandelier reminded me of costumes in the Roaring Twenties. That was when John Ringling first fell in love with Sarasota and thought of making the town the winter headquarters for the circus.  Geometric patterns on the carpets and floor, felt lively and whimsical!  The fabrics were full of circus fun! Pillows with animals... smooth velvet, reminding me of luxurious show curtains! The ceiling even felt a bit like a circus tent.
The cage-like chairs had me imagining lions! Elevator After a brief look around the lobby, we headed up in one of the 2 elevators.  If we'd gotten stuck in either elevator, I would have been thoroughly entertained with the vintage photo art! Lights & Stripes! The elevator doors opened and I stepped out grinning ! Showtime! Gotta love some bright lights!  We followed the striped carpet and paused at the Hydration Station!
There was a water dispenser, a drawer holding bags of ice, plus a bowl of oranges on the counter. All in a nicely designed little nook, off the hall! Stepping In I stepped into the room and paused again. The entryway offered a dramatic walkway towards the ocean-view balcony!
But before stepping into the room I had to admire the dressing space, holding robes and a padded bench, over a set of drawers. And more circus art of course! Calm Colors The view was enough to relax any traveler. But the soft gray and sandy brown tones in the room felt heavenly. The muted tones made the ocean blue color pop!  I appreciated all the handy "stuff" from the cushioned bench at the foot of the bed...
...to the coffee maker and refillable water containers. I of course loved the framed circus photos and the small sculpted performer. These classy tidbits kept my favorite theme alive, without overwhelming! Comfy The bed and linens were comfy and the built-in headboard was just the right amount of soft.  Besides 2 cushioned desk chairs, there was super cozy corner chair, with light. The bathroom was lovely. Bright white towels and classy black & white tile designs.
And those vintage photographs kept right on entertaining. 12 Hours Apart The balcony was the icing on the cake. The gulf-view rooms were a bit pricey, so we hadn't booked one. Yet suddenly we were looking across the road towards sand and sea.
The first photo was taken around 7:30 in the evening. The other was taken 12 hours later. Very quiet times in April! The Midway After checking out our room, Don and I headed back down and grabbed a window table at the Midway Lobby Bar.  4:00 was a little early to start Happy Hour, but we were offered complimentary cocktails with our check-in. Each champaign cocktail came with a playful surprise! An orange Popsicle!  Don gifted me his, so I had a double Popsicle beverage... which I don't recommend. After a bit of messy fumbling, my drink turned into a Mimosa. Which I guess is nothing to complain about. Games We hardly needed more entertainment, but if we got bored there were games. I spotted a wooden ring game, on top of the striped table.
A very serious looking chessboard was tempting guests to come sit and play for a couple hours. Planning Place Across the room I spotted 2 chairs facing a desk and an enormous mural of elephants. I believe this was the concierge desk where we could sit and inquire about visiting the Ringling Museums or other Sarasota attractions.
But without the conceirge, I was happy to just sit a moment and study the nearby shelves, filled with bright and tidy circus knickknacks of course. Mostly I stared at the elephants. I've spent many an hour pondering the worries of circus animals in history. But on this day I only sat and admired the incredible beasts. Post Happy Hour It was just after 6:30 when Don and I returned to the Midway. The bar's Happy Hour had ended but there was a lively crowd lingering.  I ordered the "Levitate" cocktail which included some tropical flavors... rum, coconut, banana syrup... Tasty, but I did not levitate. Don ordered a martini with his choice of olive stuffings. He went for the gherkin stuffed olives. Which maybe was an odd choice.
It became apparent that most of the Happy Hour folks around us, were locals who knew each other. They all seemed to be enjoying gourmet popcorn in cute cups. I jumped up to investigate and found a retro popcorn cart had rolled into the lobby. I was pretty excited to get a couple complimentary cups for our table! More Exploring After a while we headed for a door past the bar, to check out the pool area. I paused to admire the mini carousel inspired jars, holding drink garnishes.  The Ringmaster Poolside Bar offered a shady outdoor area.  There were quite a few guests enjoying the deck chairs.  I returned early in the morning to take photos, without intruding on lounging guests. I loved the playful yellow striped umbrellas. The cushioned lounge chairs actually looked comfortable.  The pool shape was changed during renovation. Instead of a dull rectangle, the design looks a little like 3 connected circles. Just like a 3-ring circus! I also found additional chaise lounges, down a few steps.  A nice space for guests who don't like beach sand or pool splashes. Dramatic Dinner at Ringside Long before our 7:30 dinner reservation, I stopped by to chat with Amanda, who was standing at the podium outside the restaurant.
I've never seen such velvety drama at the entrance to a dining room! Amanda was delightful. She was as enthused about the hotel's themed decor as I was. She let me have a peek behind the curtains before the Ringside Restaurant opened.  Amanda encouraged me to take a look at the table options. It was hard to pass up a cozy table nook with curtains. But I asked to book a table near a window instead. View The view would have been a little better if we'd been up a few floors. But around 8:00, I could spot the sun setting, just behind Don.  We took our time studying the menu.  Before discovering the tasty options inside, I had to admire the menu design itself. Classy and magical on the cover...  Inspiring words on the inside! "A place that forbids you to take anything seriously."  Don and I enjoyed the view along with a shared Caesar salad. Our trapeze artist friend seemed to be joining us from above. Design The decor that surrounded us made the meal extra memorable. Such an intriguing mix of vintage circus decor and luxurious furnishings.  As I absorbed flavors, I absorbed the fine decor. Circus murals and velvet and zebra fabric, stripes above and geometric shapes below!  It seems fitting that we should dine in style, since the Ringling Brothers made sure their circus staff ate on china and tablecloths in the dining tents! Onion Skillet Bread This appetizer was as over-the-top-fun as the decor was over-the-top snazzy!  Parmesan, honey whipped butter, warm asiago fondue! Don was even applauding and he doesn't love bread. I ordered Crispy Skin-on Scottish Salmon! Pan-seared, sweet potato & hazelnut hash, crispy kale, blood orange reduction!  Much more appetizing than my photo. The flavors were pretty amazing! Don's pan-seared diver scallops were mouthwatering. The festive dining room was quiet and empty by the time we finished.  We left happy! Nighttime Peek I took a quick step outside to peek at the pool before heading up to our luxurious room.  The air felt perfect. I could have slept on one of those lounge chairs. Morning In the morning I let myself explore just a little more.  I should have grabbed some coffee to enjoy the chairs and games on the west side of the building. A pedestrian walkway has replaced the old drive up entrance, so it's pleasant and quiet. Just a few steps across the street and I was on the beach. So calm!  If we'd had one more day, we would have had time to take advantage of the hotel's sister property. Just steps away, Gulf at Lido Beach Resort had lots more beach and dining options to enjoy. But it was time to head back across that white sand and pack up. What's Notable? I had my cake and ate it too, at The Cirque! I love a whimsical theme, but usually I have to give up luxury for that. Most themed hotels are weird or worn or uncomfortable. I'm almost always happy to give up luxury to enjoy a unique stay, but didn't have to here.  I loved the decor! Luxurious, tasteful decorating with playful circus woven in. Even though colors and murals and designs were bold, it was never overwhelming. The gracious staff, top notch food, the beach location and the clever decor... all in perfect balance! Like the best circus act!
Next time we will book more than one night! Retreat on the Tamiami Trail! This unique inn, sits right on Florida's Tamiami Trail. The historic road (that travels from Tampa to Miami) was completed in 1928.  The buildings that make up the boutique hotel, are actually older. All have a fun connection to the famous circus family, the Ringlings. The structures were moved by mule to this location, around the time the Trail opened. 3 Buildings There are only 5 hotel suites, in the 3 barn-shaped buildings. Some are named for members of the Ringling family. The North and South buildings sit behind the main building, which was named for Charles Ringling.  Last April, Don and I spent the night upstairs in the South Building, on the right. Connections to Ringling Circus The Charles Ringling Building faces Tamiami Trail. It was once home to Charles and Edith Ringling, back when the famous circus empire employed over 1,000 employees.  Charles and Edith Ringling lived in this modest house while their winter mansion was being built in Sarasota. Today the cozy building houses a fabulous little restaurant and the Otto Ringling Suite on the upper floor. Lots of Ringlings I've always known about John Ringling. He was the brother that got biggest spotlight out of the 5 Ringling brothers who ran the "Greatest Show on Earth". Charles and his brother John were both prominent in Sarasota in the twenties. In 1926 they moved their circus winter headquarters to Sarasota.  The 5 bros certainly looked alike with their matching mustaches. But they all had their own personalities and skills. I was curious about Otto since a guest suite was named for him. I read that he was a financial wizard and a recluse. He died in 2011 and possibly never even came to Sarasota. I've no idea why the upstairs room has his name. Who's on the Porch? When we ate dinner during our stay, I spotted this framed photo near our table. I wondered if this was one of the Ringling women.  Our server didn't know, but I recognized the front porch. It matched the picture I took of the main building. This photo (from the '20s or '30's?) surely can't be Edith. She was born in 1869. Their daughter Hester? Or could she have been a circus performer who lived on the property once it was moved and housed circus staff. Another Glimpse This photo (with white paint and picket fence!) was also near our dining table. It made me wonder more about the property and the folks who once lived here.  What were the other 2 buildings used for? Where were the 3 buildings before moving? Near Sarasota Bay, where Charles and Edith's mansion was being built? R for Ringling? This photo shows 2 of the 3 buildings. I can see an "R" on the window awning attached to the Charles Ringling building.  If they went to the trouble to personalize the awning, this must have been more of a home to Charles & Edith, than some temp housing situation. Location My family visited Sarasota many times in the '60s & '70s. My memories of the Tamiami Trail, are all about old Florida style motels. Mom & Pop motor courts with pastel paint and neon signs. Cement seahorses... Funny, I don't at all remember ever seeing this trio of structures.  In 2026, the Tamiami Trail seems very different. The Reserve Retreat sits on a very tidy part of the Trail, next to an attractive roundabout. The location is incredibly convenient to downtown, museums, bay etc. Cozy Cluster Since the buildings were moved about a century ago, they've been used in numerous ways. A boarding house and circus performance venue... I also read that it became a bordello at some point. Who knows?  In later years, the structures housed a family photo studio and a dress shop, an art gallery and a residential tenement of some kind. The property sat vacant for at least a decade before becoming a boutique hotel. Just this past year, the property was nicely spiffed up with new ownership. Outside Dining When we arrived on a Monday afternoon last April, I noticed a woman putting out tablecloths. The outside dining space looked inviting.  We had dinner reservations for 7:00. I'd read many good things about the Italian chef who would be preparing our meal. Chef Antonio. Check-In It was around 4 when we arrived for our stay. I'd been instructed to find our key in a mailbox outside the North Building.  I'm fine with self check-in, but I was pleased when one of the new owners pulled up in the nearby parking lot. He introduced himself as Flavio. (I hope I got that right) He was very welcoming and we had a wonderful chat on many subjects. The historic property... how Florida compares to his home in Italy... renovations. I told him how I'd always had a passion for circuses and for Sarasota... The Circus Capital! I let him know how much I appreciated how they were preserving the property's history. Mable Ringling Suite Flavio pointed out the North Building, which held 2 rooms with typical B&B names. Bayside Bliss and Reserve Retreat. Then we walked to the South building and he opened the door to a staircase. Don and I would be staying in the room was upstairs, right above the Charles Ringling Suite.
I'm a circus fan, so I was happy to have a room named for a Ringling. But I'm curious why it was named for Mable. She was actually married to Charles' brother, John. I had a lot of questions about the name choices, but I didn't bother Flavio with my endless ponderings. Mable's Suite I loved the homey feel of our spacious suite. It took over the entire upper level of the building.  There were a few reminders that the building was about a century old. Sections of the floor looked original.  I have no clue what Charles and Edith used this building for in the 1920s. It could have been an apartment for a relative. Maybe there was a refrigerator up here... but certainly not a microwave or a coffee maker. I was glad to have them, along with bottled water and snacks.  The decor in the room was a tiny bit dated, but it was comfy, spotless and peaceful. Windows! We had lots of them! One window gave us a view of the barn-like home where Charles and Edith once lived.
Two more windows looked towards the house next door, with growth so thick we couldn't spy on neighbors. Another window was hidden behind a curtain at the head of the (very comfy) bed.
Another window filled the bathroom with light. I love a bright bathroom. Reserve Restaurant I spent a number of childhood summers living in Sarasota. I loved living in a town where performers and animals once lived and trained in the winters. It was fun to know that Don and I would be dining in a home, where members of the famous circus family dined over 100 years ago.  At 5 pm I headed to the main building to peek at the restaurant. The home's original front entrance was no longer in use. We would sit beside those doors at dinner later. Restaurant at 5:00 Near the patio area I found the entrance. There were quite few dining guests, in the 3 cozy rooms. The restaurant opens at 4:30 and plenty were taking advantage of early dining.  Through a set of doors I could spot the home's staircase. A man was sitting nearby, at the table that would later be ours. Other Spots There are less than 10 tables in 3 small areas. The table for 2 by the old fireplace looked cozy.
A small room on the north side held 3 tables. Did Charles and Edith spend much time in this sunny room? Did they really get to relax when they wintered in Sarasota? Hope so! They both traveled with the circus the rest of the year. Happy Hour There was no lounge in the Reserve Restaurant, but I chatted with a very gracious server who said we were more than welcome to make use of the sitting area on the dining patio,  Don and I brought our own beverages from the room and enjoyed the people watching. Most of the diners coming and going seemed to be around our age or older. The guests all seemed to be retirees. Not tourists, but in-the-know locals. I had to chuckle at my childhood memories of Sarasota retirees. My siblings (and I) used to snicker about all the oldsters in their Bermuda shorts and silly sunglasses. But Sarasota Seniors have changed over the years. These folks looked like they might be inclined to talk about current art or Peace Corps memories, rather than golf and bridge. Or maybe I'm seeing things differently now... since these oldsters are my peers. Our Funny Space We arrived at 7 and were seated at the sweet little table at the bottom of the stairs.  It was odd to be between the main dining room and the kitchen, but I think it was the best space. There were vintage photos displayed nearby, that made me long to step back in time. I would love to experience Sarasota before the 1960s, when Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus still wintered each year.
Our table location also gave us a good peek into a room filled with wine. Noises from the kitchen were entertaining. The music playing in the kitchen was actually enjoyable and the voices (Italian I believe) were upbeat and lively. Antonio Our special seat gave us an opportunity to catch Chef Antonio at one point.  I was happy to let him know I'd read so many great reviews about his restaurant. He seemed happy that I'd chosen his Special of the Day, not on the menu. Food & Drink Before our food arrived, we enjoyed some wine and incredibly tasty bread, served in a warm paper bag. Don was happy with his Mediterranean choice. Grouper Livornese, with cherry tomatoes, black olives, capers, onion and garlic!
I can't recall the name of my special dish, but it could have fed 4! Tortellini with a creamy meat sauce! Kind of like a hearty stroganoff! Both meals were excellent. Good Ending Our 2 busy servers were fantastic. Both women I believe were Italian. I wish we'd had more time to chat. The 2 women may have been part of the new ownership.  We were given some complimentary shots of Grappa, before our bill came in a fun cigar box. Just another fun detail. Walking Off Dinner Our hotel may have been right beside a fairly busy road, but it felt safe and quite pretty, when we walked around after dinner. 
As the sky grew darker, we walked back into the neighborhood behind the hotel. We popped back out near the roundabout. In the center of the circle, an impressive sculpture glowed against a dramatic sky. Morning Walk In the morning I had a got out for a 30-minute walk and discovered 2 nearby parks.
What a treat on a pleasant April morning, to find 2 fine views of Sarasota Bay. Ringling Mansions After checking out of our hotel with all its Ringling family connections, we drove 2.5 miles to tour Ca' d'Zan, which is the glamorous mansion built by Charles' brother. John and Mable completed their 56-room winter home around the same time Charles and Edith moved into theirs.
While wandering the lovely grounds around the mansion, we spotted a grand home next door. I hadn't known before that the mansion Charles and Edith had built, was next door to his brother's. It's now owned by New College, so not a museum. New College We later drove to the front of the mansion, now called College Hall. The security guard welcomed us in to look around. I had fun telling the guard that my brother had gone to the experimental private college back when New College was indeed new.
It was fun to see some of the grand rooms, especially the music room, with its enormous organ. Sadly Charles lived less than a year after moving into their new home. Edith and and family lived on the property many years longer. I was surprised to learn that she played an important role in running the circus. I kind of wish our hotel suite had been named for Edith. What's Notable? I didn't exactly know what to expect with our stay. It was confusing trying to book, since ownership had changed. The new website wasn't up yet and information was difficult to get. I kept expectations low.  But I was thrilled when we pulled up and found the buildings and landscape looking fresh. The staff was pleasant and professional. The dining experience was lovely. (Antonio has been chef here for many years)
Our cozy inn property almost felt like a country estate in New England... with palms. I would have enjoyed myself just fine at this homey hotel, even if there'd been no Ringling connection. (Most guests aren't as obsessed about hotel history or circus history) But knowing our hotel had a place in Ringling Family history, was fun and certainly notable! Midtown Manhattan Last November Don and I stayed at this famous 36-story hotel, in Midtown Manhattan. This is how the entrance looked in the afternoon, a few hours after our arrival.  When our Uber pulled up in the morning, there were no festive decorations yet. The entrance was bustling with arriving guests. The doormen did more directing than luggage handling. Exterior View I stood on the sidewalk and looked up at the famous hotel. Where's the top? I couldn't pause long, since we were moving quickly to join the line inside the lobby.
I stepped out later and stood on the corner of 54th Street and 6th Avenue (Avenue of the Americas) and looked up. I wanted to be impressed, but scaffolding blocked the lower level. Bad luck. 36 Floors in 1926 If we'd arrived in the Roaring Twenties, I could have much more easily seen the towering structure. 100 years ago, there were fewer tall buildings surrounding.  When the 36-story apartment hotel was built in 1926, it was one of the tallest buildings in the world. William Randolph Hearst & Marion Davies The Warwick was built by the famous tycoon, William Randolph Hearst. The purpose was mostly so Hearst could gift an entire floor to his mistress, Marion Davies. The Broadway starlet must have appreciated the hotel's location, so close to the theatre district.  Hearst also used the hotel to host lavish parties for his elite Hollywood friends. By the late 1940s, Hearst no longer owned the the Warwick, but the hotel continued to attract stars for years. Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Judy Garland, Lucille Ball, Cary Grant and endless others, spent time here. Mid-Century Warwick This mid-century postcard shows the hotel about 3 decades after it was built. In the image, the hotel is still standing taller than the other skyscrapers, but the top of the tower looks less elaborate.  In the 1950s, Hearst no longer owned the hotel and Marion Davies no longer lived in her penthouse on the very top floor. I have no clue what's up there today. Windows! I wasn't able to view the upper section, when standing on the sidewalk. But I could see lots of windows and some of the limestone and granite base.  There are 426 guest rooms, but I have no clue how many windows. It would have been fun to have seen the window cleaners at work!
If we'd stayed on the 36th floor, I'm not really sure what would we would have viewed, besides other soaring buildings. But the guests in lower rooms (near the glowing letters) probably had fun views on Thanksgiving... when the Macy's Parade traveled right beside The Warwick! Lobby Unlike my photos, the lobby was crowded when we arrived on Monday morning. We followed others through the entrance, into a somewhat modest lobby. Modest for a hotel of this size.  We joined the check-in line, that ended near the revolving doors. Murals on 54 & Randolph's We waited in line at the top of the steps, between 2 inviting doors
Later during our stay, we would enjoy breakfast at Murals and drinks at Randolph's. Check-In Don and I knew there was little chance of early check in, but hoped to at least unload our bags. We enjoyed lots of people watching. No ritzy Hollywood guests, I'm afraid. Mostly families taking up space in the limited seating of the lobby.  The staff was efficient and friendly even though they'd been dealing with an insane number of guests checking in and out. I'm not sure why so many guests had arrived at 11? Maybe a tour bus arrived before us. Music Icons at The Warwick I didn't ask about the busy lobby, but I did ask the clerk at the desk about the photo on a nearby wall. "Is that Elvis in that photo?"  He said that it was. Elvis stayed in 1957, when he was on the Ed Sullivan Show. Less than a decade later, The Beatles would enjoy a stay at The Warwick. The hotel manager told me that Paul McCartney stayed frequently in more recent years. "Sir Paul loves this place. He has always been very pleasant... used to go to the Starbucks around the corner." Cary Grant's Elevators Don and I didn't join the lounging lobby guests. We headed to lunch and returned when our room was ready. We didn't book the 1,200 square-foot Cary Grant Suite, for over $1,000. But we did ride up in an elevator that I'm sure the actor probably used... frequently!  The dashing actor lived at the hotel for 12 years. I guess it's quite possible he had access to a private elevator. I should have asked. Room 1923 Our more than reasonably priced room was on the 19th floor.  There was nothing overly grand, but the room had been updated in the last decade and we were in an incredible Midtown location. Hard to believe we could stay for just $193.00! We made some coffee and had a caffeine toast!
There was a mod-velvet chair for Don and a tub for me! Renovations often loose the tubs, so I was pleased.
And the view! I had to laugh when we opened the drapes a saw the view of brick and tile! Exploring After a while, I left Don in the blue chair and headed down to explore the lower level.  The lobby was quieter and the Christmas decorations had gone up. The entrance was no longer chaotic with arriving guests.
2 men were casually putting up festive soldiers and lights. I walked to the corner and found another entrance to the hotel. I spotted a dapper man exiting.
The sign above the door lured me in. I came through the 2 doors and found some pleasing designs on the floor and ceiling. A door on the right led to Randolph's, but it didn't open until 5.
I walked towards the cozy sitting area with shelves. I found myself back in the lobby. Slow Elevators Now it was time to admire the wreaths in the arches above the elevators, while I waited and waited...  Usually there were many guests awaiting/riding the slow elevators. Which sometimes led to some pleasant socializing. The hotel often felt more like a relaxed cruise ship than a luxury hotel. Drinks at Randolph's Before heading off to dinner, Don and I stopped in Randolph's for drinks.  This cozy spot looked inviting at 5:30, but Don suggested sitting in a livelier space. The bar's corner location with walls of windows, added to the festive vibe. The activity outside the windows was entertaining.  The carpet design was appealing, but oh how I wished we'd seen the rose-themed carpet that once covered the floor. Hearst had rose designs in many parts of the hotel, to honor Marion Davies. Her nickname was Rosebud. Besides tables, there were numerous small group spaces. We grabbed a comfy spot, near a wonderful camel statue. After a while another couple asked to use the remaining seats. We ended up having a wonderful time chatting about travel and grandkids and New York.  Our photo was taken by a family member seated behind us, on the other side of the camel. I met the reunion group when I stepped over to take a photo of the camel. They were amused and asked me to play photographer for them, then offered to do the same for us. Silly.
We enjoyed Randolph's again on the second night. This time we arrived late after being out. I promise I was not as woozy as I look. Just happy. Morning Both mornings I wandered early to enjoy the hotel before crowds.
I was thrilled when the very kind manager recommended a trip up the stairs, off the lobby. After turning the corner I found walls with photos.  So many famous guests over the years.
At the top of the stairs I found a quiet sitting area, with a fireplace at one end.  Nice to know this quiet area existed, since there wasn't much sitting space in the busy lobby. Back down at the base of the stairs, I stopped to look at the crystal chandelier near the lobby desk.  My photo also shows another entrance to Mural's on 54th. Mural's on 54th The 2-level restaurant is only open for breakfast and brunch.  The restaurant gets its curious name from Dean Cornwell's historic murals, that cover 2 walls.  In 1937, the murals were commissioned by Hearst for The Raleigh Room, which was the original name of the hotel's restaurant. Scandalous Murals The historic scenes in the murals focus on Queen Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh. I was actually more interested in the history of the spat between Hearst and the artist who painted the scenes... which led to some obscene surprises in the art.  Years ago there was a dispute between Hearst and Cornwell involving the artist's compensation. Cornwell wasn't happy and responded by painting obscene images in the murals. Cornwell's images showed a man peeing on the queen and another man peeing on Sir Walter Raleigh!  Our breakfast table gave us a good view of the mural that showed Sir Walt receiving his charter from Queen Liz. However, we did not get to enjoy the outrageous peeing images. Cornwell eventually painted over them, after being covered for 40 years! Coffee and Food Don and I took a break from mural-gazing and ordered.
I sipped coffee out of my cup with its clever, W & Crown logo. It inspired a toast to Queen Elizabeth. Cheers for putting up with 40 years of pee! I asked our server Rhonda for breakfast suggestions. She said she loved the chef's French Toast, but it wasn't on the menu. She disappeared and came back to tell us he was happy to make it.  Yum! Thick toast, with powdered sugar, syrup and whipped cream, along with a fresh fruity sauce!  Don's omelet with grilled ham and potatoes was a feast that Sir Walter Raleigh would have enjoyed. After we dined, I wandered and got a better peek at the other wall.
This mural also had some details that Cornwell added, to cause a stir. The Indian's bare bottom was considered very risqué in 1938. The mural however was left alone. Check Out Here is my last photo at The Warwick. We checked out, the morning before Thanksgiving Eve. Don was texting an Uber.  We were sad to leave, since we hadn't even begun to explore all the places that were so near the hotel. But room prices were tripling, due to the upcoming parade. Location So we left our wonderful location. The photos below show some of the nearby places we explored, during our brief stay. We weren't really sad to leave. We were going to my brother and sister-in-laws, in Brooklyn! What's Notable? The Warwick was the perfect location, with a great room rate and a very decent room. There were a lot of rooms packed into this hotel and there were a lot of non-fancy guests, just like us.  The hotel is not glitzy like it was a century ago. But Randolph's and Murals made up for that, with people encounters and curious history. I would say location, price and hotel history made our stay pretty darn good!
I'd be happy to stay again. Maybe when the exterior renovation is complete! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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