A Grand Stay in Italy
Don and I spent 2 nights in this fine palace, with a very grand entrance.
We arrived in the middle of a downpour, so we didn't look so grand ourselves. But the doorman greeted us graciously.
Hotel Since 1905
Hotel Bristol Palace felt Royal, but it was never actually a palace. The Art Nouveau structure was built as a hotel, in 1905.
The elegant hotel attracted high society guests, who mostly arrived by carriage.
We didn't arrive in such style. Our taxi driver was wearing a Las Vegas t-shirt when he dropped us off at the stylish hotel.
I was exited to see our hotel and to learn more about Genoa. I was also excited to see something special inside... the thing that made me book this hotel.
I knew little about Genoa, before booking our hotel. I knew it had something to do with Genoa salami. And I knew it was the capital of the Italian region of Liguia.I also knew it was one of the most important ports on the Ligurian Sea.
But, until our visit, I didn't realize what a beautiful city it was, or that it had the largest medieval area in all of Europe.
I'm not usually lured to hotels because of the elegance. Most of our lodging during our 2 weeks in Italy, was more quaint than luxurious. For most, we climbed hills and stone steps to reach them. Not marble staircases with wrought iron railings!
These are the stairs we spotted when we entered the lobby. I ignored the desk to the right and the bar straight ahead. I didn't even notice the handy container of umbrellas.
I ignored the red carpet that covered the steps and I looked directly up! This is why I booked the hotel! For the amazing stairs!
I discovered this hotel with its 6-story elliptical staircase, when Googling, 4 years ago. My eyes were glued to the image.
It was mind boggling to finally be in the hotel, where I could study the real thing, suspended in space. Not on my computer screen!
I turned in all directions and found myself getting more confused. The shapes seemed to move, or turn inside out. Like an M.S. Escher image! What was I looking at? I felt like I should be able to magically walk up the stairs, upside-down!
After checking in, I could barely wait to climb to the top and look down. Seeing the red carpet and marble floor below, made it easier for me to wrap my head around what I was seeing.
You can't visit Bristol Palace without staring upward for a while. I should have gotten a photo of faces below! When new guests arrive, they walk towards the desk, look up... and maybe snap a cellphone pic. But none of the guests seemed quite as obsessed with the glorious stairway, as me.
Looking down was easier on the neck. I could have studied forever. Before heading down, I looked at the glossy railing and wondered how many people have tried riding that banister!
That's a scary thought. I should have asked at the desk, to see if there have been attempts.
Speaking of scary, as in scary movies... Alfred Hitchcock has a little history with the Bristol Palace. He was a hotel guest twice. In the fifties he stayed while filming "To Catch a Thief". Years earlier, (in 1925) Hitchcock was a young man of 26. He was introduced to the luxurious hotel when filming his first movie, "Pleasure Garden".
It is said that he drew inspiration from the dramatic staircase, which led to his work on the classic film, Vertigo.
Don and I watched the movie before our trip. The movie's staircase scene, looks nothing like Bristol's stairway. But spiraling, elliptical images can be seen during the opening credits. I read later that the same swirling design can be spotted briefly, throughout the movie. (In Kim Novac's hairdo and a tree... ?) I need to watch again.
Room 227 on Floor 3
We didn't have to lug our bags up the spiraling red carpet, since there was an elevator. The wide doorway welcomed us into an impressive room on floor 3. (Italians count floors differntly)
Our yellow room was spacious, with a soaring ceiling.
The hotel was remodeled in 2014 and I was glad they hadn't filled the space with plush modern furniture and art. I do love classic decor in historic hotels.
The original floors were striking and spotlessly clean.
The dressing area was nice and roomy. Lots of options for holding bags and hanging clothes.
The large bathroom was bright and clean, with double sinks and an enormous shower.
The marble was cool, but the heated towel rack, robes and slippers, kept things warm.
What's Behind the Window?
There was a tidy little desk in the corner, beside the thick yellow drapes. I was of course more excited about looking our the window, than writing a letter.
Behind the drapes I found curious narrow doors, set into the deep window frame. Painted shut, so no discoveries!
The view of modern buildings was not too exciting. A room on the front would have given us a view of Via XX Septembre. The popular street is lined with majestic buildings, shops and colonnades.
Hefty Chandelier & Mirror!
The immense chandelier and gold framed mirror, took the focus, in this photo. The mirror made the chandelier look twice as sparkly and dramatic.
Both were pretty and elegant, but I found myself briefly cringing at the thought of either, falling in the night. I was a little touchy, since our humongous bathroom mirror at home, crashed to the floor the night before we flew to Italy.
Aunt Mary Antiques
The formal antique furniture made me feel right at home... like in my Great Aunt Mary's house. Aunt Mary had beautiful things and although her house was not actually comfortable as I recall, I grew to respect her taste and I now own a few of her lovely things.
The bedside tables definitely reminded me of Aunt Mary. The dresser was pretty, as well as useful. We made use of the tea kettle and cups.
After settling in, it was time to enjoy the hotel. We changed out of our damp travel clothes before heading down the stairs.
Of course I had to pose, with the stairs and the skylight.
There was more stained glass to enjoy. I look like I planned my dress color to coordinate with the glass!
While walking from the top to the bottom, I once again pondered the idea of sliding down the banister. There was no cushioned carpet at the end...just a few more marble steps. So not a good idea.
Time to Relax
Don and I decided to stay in and enjoy the hotel for our first evening. There were a couple of sitting areas.
We could have played chess or chatted on a couch between potted palms. I love palms in old hotels!
The little bar near the bottom of the staircase, looked more inviting. Our bartender Ivan, was delighted to make Don a Smoked Negroni.
It was entertaining to watch. My martini wasn't nearly as complicated, but it seemed like the perfect drink for our hotel.
We found some deep, comfy chairs and Ivan brought out a tray of goodies.
Some Genovese style foods evidently. And potato chips. Italians seem to serve chips a lot.
I was glad the atmosphere felt relaxed. I asked Ivan to take our photo and he was quite pleasant and didn't roll his eyes at the "American Tourists". I think we were actually the only Americans.
At 8, we headed for our reservations on the second floor. The evening was damp and chilly, but no need to grab jackets. For those who came from outside, there was a cloak room. I haven't checked a coat in a million years.
We were welcomed graciously and taken through the frescoed dining room, to a little alcove, off to the right.
We might have enjoyed the bigger room for some people watching, but I loved our little room with windows.
View of Via XX Septembre
Our little room was basically a bay window, hanging over the street. Behind Don, we could see the neon hotel sign and Via XX Septembre, below.
The well known via was much quieter at 8 pm.
In a photo I took later, you can see the bay's 4 illuminated windows. above the arches on the right. That's where we were seated.
I loved keeping an eye out on the street below.
I could look over my left shoulder and see across the street.
Dinner with a view! The next morning I walked down those endless colonnades!
Jenny was our lovely server. She read my mind and asked if I'd like butter with my bread, Oh I do love some butter and lots of Italian restaurants don't serve it.
After we ordered wine, the manager, (I assume) brought over a "gift from the chef". It was some kind of soft cheese with edible flowers! A Ligurian specialty, I believe.
Don and I aren't often able to finish endless courses of food. We skipped the Anitpasta and went straight for the "Primi Piatti", which was still considered first course.
,I devoured my "le mezzanine di magro in salsa di noci..." which was pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and herbs, along with walnut sauce. And I can't believe I've forgotten the name of Don's special fish of the day.. The portions and flavors of both were perfect! We didn't leave a bite.
I believe that is the name of this room, outside of the dining room. Once a reading room, I believe. We passed through, carrying our unfinished wine back to our room.
We paused to admire the original marble floors and chandelier.
I found a donkey in a painting. If there is a donkey anywhere, I demand a photo.
We took advantage of the empty room and had some fun with an enormous wall mirror.
We sort of created an "Infinity Photo", We clearly should have spent more time on that project.
Don headed up to the room and I dashed down the red stairway, to step outside. I always attempt one night photo of every hotel where we stay.
Somehow at night, it's always easier to stop and sigh and wonder and dream, about a hotel's past and all the people who have visited. Unfortunately, this lovely hotel had a dark period, back during WWII. Germans actually occupied the hotel and made it their headquarters. Supposedly they built a secret tunnel to the port. I found no photos of that time period.
We slept well and woke hungry. We should have made reservations for the Giotto's daily breakfast. I heard it was not to be missed. But it was totally booked, so we skipped.
But we made coffee in the room and unpacked some pastries we had bought earlier.
Arches and Walkways
There was so much to see, just within a couple blocks.
This picture from across the street, shows the colonnades, with their decorated columns and grand arches.
The "sidewalks" beneath the covered walkways, weren't exactly shabby. Actually one looked a bit worn, but that just added to the charm.
Besides the nearby colonnades, there were other interesting walkways to explore. In the heart of the medieval city, there is quite a maze of carruggi, (narrow alleys) and they are just mind boggling. We used GPS, but we still got lost, as we wound up and down, in and out.
The carruggis are lined by high outer walls of the old homes. In Medieval times, the complicated passages made it difficult for invading armies.
What We Found
Our walking and wandering took us to so many wonderful places. The first of these photos, (click to enlarge) shows the fountain, in the middle of Ferarri Piazza. It was just a short walk, down our street. It looked different in the early morning.
We visited palaces and churches. We discovered hilltops views and cozy cafes. I honestly didn't expect to find so many wonderful surprises, within walking distance.
On the second morning we rushed to pack and get to the train station. However, when we stepped outside, we found the streets were barricaded, for the Focaccia Festival!
The hotel offered to watch our bags as we dashed out to enjoy a quick peek of the 352 meter long, set up, The longest focaccia in the world! They were just getting ready to hand out samples! 16,000 samples we were told.
Off We Go
Sadly, we didn't have time to enjoy the focaccia. But at least we got to see the endless table winding around the corner. Then it was time to get going!
We had help from a very gracious doorman, who carried our bags to the next block, where he could hail us a cab!
I thought we were coming for a magnificent staircase! It was even more impressive than I imagined.That will be my main memory!
But the location and the comfort are also notable. The hotel was situated on a great street, and wandering was a huge plus. The Bristol Palace turned out to be so much grander and yet comfier than I expected. I thought it was going to be a "been there, done that" hotel, but I would happily stay again!
My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains.
I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years.
The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding!