Christmas Celebration in Oregon Three days before Christmas, Don and I gathered with our 2 kids and their spouses at the newly renovated Heathman Hotel. We were ready to start celebrating! Hotel History The 10-story, concrete and brick hotel was built in 1927, as the New Heathman Hotel. There was much fanfare at the grand opening. The modern hotel was expected to be even more high end than the first Heathman, built just a year before, about a block away. Fun at the Door The 50-dollar valet parking fee was a little steep, but we were getting a well dressed doorman, after all. He wasn't dressed in the Heathman's, traditional, red, beefeater's uniform. But, I kind of liked the new Portland look, with green jacket, gold knit cap and turtleneck. Our doorman was able to give us a little scoop about the bronze statue near the entrance. Zelda the bulldog, was wearing her own little beefeaters costume. Her job was to remind folks that Heathman's is a pet friendly hotel... and to offer water from her bowl to passing pooches. The real celebrity dog, of Zelda Wisdom was born in Portland and evidently visited the hotel on occasion. Bowler Hats and Beer After we passed through the revolving door, we headed through the lobby towards the curious map mural. The Double H, check-in desks were quite fun, with little hat stands, holding black bowlers. "Funnest" Desk One check-in stand was more fun than the others. It held a metal tub of iced beers. We were invited to grab one, or come back later. Festive Decor While the 6 of us gathered and got checked in, I took a quick peek at the holiday decor. The lobby's tree sparkled, right between two glowing pillars. The stairway heading from the mezzanine down to the library, was filled with greenery and lights. Russian Tea The view from the stairs was pretty snazzy. It was a Saturday afternoon and Heathman's traditional Russian Tea was finishing up. There were silver tea services, tiered trays of pastries and lots of people decked out for the holidays. (Decked out for Portland, not New York) Headwater Grill Heathman's Headwater Grill was empty at 4:00, but it was full a couple hours later. The chef is one of Portland's best. Aloha Room I loved peeking at the sleek Grill and imagining the Aloha Room from years ago. What a look, with the square columns painted blue and an impressive mural of King Kamehameha, covering one wall! Double H We're used to a lot of double letter stuff, coming from Texas. Seems like every ranch you pass is a Double R or Double D, with a branded looking image on the sign. I spotted plenty of double H images in Heathman Hotel, from fireplace screen to door handles. I should have had my daughter pose with a few. Heidi's initials went from HZ to HH, when she married. Extra Perks at the Gym Don and I made sure to have a look at the gym, since we'd heard there was a speed bag. That's something Don is actually quite good at. Unfortunately, the bag was a little deflated so he wasn't inspired. I however gave the climbing wall a try... since the music playing in the gym encouraged me, with Girls just want to have fun... Floor 10 We were given 3 rooms on the 10th floor, none of which was 1003, which is evidently the most haunted. (Something about a suicide!?) The elevator doors opened to a nice piece of art. The hallway was filled with more art. Nothing looked a bit haunted. Room 1010 Our room was not huge, but it was freshly remodeled with a giant TV and comfy bed. The window offered a view of Broadway, with Christmas lights, here and there. Portland Theatre's neon sign, festively reflected off the glass building across the street. I wish I'd taken a pic. Champagne Surprise There were lots of Heathman packages with food and champagne that we could have purchased. However, we didn't see any packages for "Celebrate your son's recent passing of the California Bar!" So we iced down our own champagne and had a little surprise toast with "the kids" a couple hours later. Odd and Small I had to get a photo of the artwork in the corner, near the window. I would love to hear the stories, behind each of those curious faces. There was art in the bathroom also, but it was hidden behind the door. In fact the bathroom was so small there was no room to brush your teeth, unless you closed the door. Clean, lovely and new, but very small for such a nice hotel. Cocktail Hour At 5:00 we gathered in the lobby, for complimentary cocktail time. I can't even remember what the special holiday beverage of the day was, but we had a fun time clinking glasses and catching up. We were excited to spend the first night of our Christmas holiday, at the festive hotel. Moving into the Library At one point, I peeked in at The Library. I realized the tea crowd was gone. With no guests, I could get a better look at the place and imagine the 2-story room, back when it was called the Tea Court Lounge. Back then, there were no books, but it looks like there was a mighty fine organ. View From Mezzanine The mezzanine was part of the hotel long before any renovations. Now the upper walls are covered with art. But the view from above was extra fun, with chandelier, more art and holiday decor. Sitting in the Library Our small group moved into the library and found a perfect spot by the bookcases. I grew up when people whispered in libraries and certainly no one drank cocktails. So we broke a couple of my childhood library rules. However, there was something so peaceful and relaxing about the space, we weren't tempted to misbehave. I was too busy looking around to act up. Teapot Stairs Behind me, I noticed a collection of lovely teapots displayed on the steps. There was a real library table, with lamps for reading. Across the room was the wall of windows and art. The sun had already set outside, but the glowing (fake) windows warmed the room. I didn't learn about these 3 stunning pieces of art, but I did read that there are at least 250 original pieces of art in the hotel. Books! The library collection began over 30 years ago. Today there are about 3,000 books, all signed by the author. I had a little fun with the sliding ladder. I behaved. Chali checked the shelves until she found a book she recognized. "My dad has this one!" What we didn't find on the shelf was the erotic romance novel, 50 Shades of Grey. None of us had that book on our radar, so we weren't exactly looking for it. However, it probably was there somewhere, since I learned later that the book mentions the Heathman Hotel about 18 times. I guess a few scenes from the movie, were filmed in the hotel, also. Hmm? Maybe it's time to read that fine piece of literature. Wandering One of the best parts about the hotel was the location. Even though the weather was cold and damp, we wandered down Broadway and enjoyed posing with the 75-ft Douglass Fir, in Pioneer Courthouse Square. A Good Night in Downtown Portland We ended up walking to Portland City Grill and having an appetizer dinner on the 30th floor. I wish we had experienced the hotel's restaurant, but we might have missed this beautiful view. The drizzle just added to the scene. I pretended it was snow.
What's Notable? The Heathman gave our family a perfect start to our 4 days of celebrating. The decorated downtown location, got us in the holiday mood. The rooms were cozy and comfy. The doormen and library gave us just enough formality and class, to make our stay feel special. Most of all there were hints of Portland that welcomed us... from quirky art to welcome beers, to beret wearing guests with dressed up doggies! A good visit.
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Forest Grove, Oregon The sight of this building was indeed grand, when we arrived on December 22. It was especially impressive to have a blue sky background, since we'd driven through some rain to get there. Once a Masonic Rest Home Don and I parked and walked towards the rambling structure, built as a Masonic Rest Home in 1922. In 2000, the complex reopened as one of the many, creative hotel properties, owned by the McMenamin brothers in the Pacific Northwest. The Grounds Before reaching the main building, we spotted the Children's Cottage. It opened in 1926 and housed about 30 orphans. That sounds like a good plan to me, but evidently the elderly lodge residents had a "less than harmonious" relationship with the children. The orphanage closed, a year later. Lots of Green! After driving through farmland and vineyards to reach the lodge, it was fun seeing the soaring pines, on the grounds. The Christmas greenery that decorated the buildings, was welcoming. The gardens and pathways looked a little wintery, but I could imagine them in summer, with flowers and leaves. Inside We headed towards the main building with its formal, Ionic columns. The strict exterior gave way to a warm and cozy interior. The sweet little sitting room off to the left, smelled like Christmas! We don't often smell live Christmas trees and wood-burning fireplaces in Texas! Lobby Just past the check-in counter, we spotted a cozy bar. There was another decorated tree! The Ironwork Grill Just past the tree, we peeked in the hotel's main restaurant. The colorful Ironwork Grill was quiet at 4pm, but lively by the time we dined at 7:30. It was fun to know guests could eat in the very same dining room, where lodge residents ate meals for over 70 years. "The Aged and Infirm Masons" The original residents belonged to the fraternal Masonic Lodge organization. I know little about Masons, but they definitely provided for their own. Even the orphans, wives and widows of Masons were cared for. Here is a photo we spotted in one of the halls. It shows some of the aged gentlemen who ate their daily meals in what is now the Grill. It was fun to spot some familiar details, from windows, to pillar decor. Exploring After checking in, we did a little exploring on the way to our room. Each wing, had its own sunrooms and sitting areas, with comfy chairs and library tables. But where were the old wicker rockers? Compass Room Theatre Just off the lobby, Don and I followed a long, 2-part ramp to the second floor. I'm guessing it was original, for folks in wheelchairs. I wish I'd gotten a better photo of the amazing mosaic wall, at the landing. As we traveled further up, I smelled popcorn! The Compass Room was getting ready for its afternoon movie showing. I was tempted to follow two grinning little girls as they headed in with parents, to watch the recently released, Mary Poppins movie! Finding Our Room We had no time for movies, since we were expecting a visit from our daughter and son-in-law. We headed up to the second floor to find our room and unload bags. The dimly lit hall, had the feel (and a bit of the smell) of the old institution. Luckily Don and I are fine with that sort of thing. I loved the blending of old and new. Original pipes, light fixtures and woodwork, along with decorated walls and colorful artwork. The Gerry Hysmith Room We found our modest room at the end of the hall. A corner room is always a perk, with two window views... but our bed blocked the second window. Instead of gazing at the view, we read our wall instead. The room was named for a woman who once lived in Grand Lodge. We learned a bit about her. Questions for Ms. Hysmith It was a little eerie having Gerry's face gazing down at us, while I read the words on the wall. I learned that Gerry was one of the residents in later years. She liked to write, so I imagine she could tell good stories. I wish I could have asked her to tell me some secrets about life at the lodge. I'm guessing there weren't many women living at a Mason's Home, so she probably had some strong opinions about that. I asked her. But she didn't answer. Little Has Changed I don't think too much has changed in the accommodations, since Gerry lived at the lodge. We had a radiator by the window and pipes above the bed. There was a nice little nook with sink. Just like the elders long ago, Don and I had to go down the hall to find the restrooms. Window Views! Once we opened the thick drapes, the room felt much brighter! First of all, we could actually open the windows and that was refreshing. I loved the holly bush, just within reach! And what incredible trees! The lowering sun added a little drama to the scenery. I'm guessing we were looking at some of the pines that survived the Columbus Day Storm in 1962, that uprooted 20 trees on the property. My Marble Bathroom Most of the 90 guest rooms at the lodge, now have private baths. But sometimes, Don and I are up for a bargain room, with the shared common bath experience. Lucky for me, the Ladies Room was just steps from our room and robes were provided. Even better luck, I had the whole marble bathroom to myself every single time. The showers were huge! Maybe, they were made to accommodate wheelchairs? No Porch Time Since our room was at the end of the hall, we had easy access to the porch. I love porches, but it was a little chilly. I also love curious porch additions. Was that a playful slide, or a fire escape for wheelchairs? Pat's Place Around 4:00, Heidi and Jamie arrived from Portland, to enjoy some McMenamins fun. We started our fun at the cute little cottage style building, just across the lawn. It was named in honor of the McMenamin brothers' mom. By the Fire We passed a roaring fire pit on the patio and took a seat inside, by the fireplace. 4:00 was the beginning of Happy Hour, so we went for it. Menu Time Beneath the ceiling covered in old album covers, we settled in to make drink decisions. Jingle Juice? Christmas Vacation? Mason's Cocoa? They all had good names. There were drinks with cocoa and candy canes, Schnapps and spiced rum. I was pretty darn happy to see 4 different Wee Drink options, for $4. each. Yay for my tiny little mason jar with ginger syrup and rum! Off to Wander After warming up with drinks and fire, we were off to explore the hotel basement. Earlier, Don and I had explored the space when it was eerily quiet. The mosaic columns and painted pipes revealed many surprise faces and images. At the base of the stairs we found a water fountain and lots of small tables and chairs that made me think of an elementary school. Later on, a musician livened up the area with his guitar. Art and Doors Before 4:00, all the doors were closed. But, there was lots of art on the walls to study. What is Behind the Doors? The Women's Room was obvious, but the Doctor's Office made me wonder. Later when we wandered with Heidi and Jamie, the office door was open and we found a bar with a pool table and other games. Years ago, this room had been a dentist's office for the residents. Coming to Life All the doors were open when we wandered at 5. We wandered a bit and stepped inside Bob's Bar, named for the McMenamin brothers' dad. From there, we traveled through small rooms, connected by arched openings. The cozy spaces were fun, with their original porcelain sinks and tables tucked into corners. But we were ready for something less claustrophobic. Soaking Pool? If only we all had swimsuits, we could have skipped the bar scene and spent some time visiting in the saltwater soaking pool. We did at least find the somewhat hidden pool, after spotting a sign painted on cinderblock, in the basement. Billy Scott Bar I developed a love/hate relationship with this sweet bar, named for a rest home resident who had been a poet. It was just down the hall from our room, on the 2nd floor. The lovely little space was a delightful sitting room with large windows and a toasty fireplace. In the morning I grabbed some complimentary coffee from the closet-like bar in the corner. At night, we 4 let the bartender serve us some cocktails to take with us, while we did more hotel exploring. At bedtime, I liked the bar less, when sounds of roaring laughter, traveled down the hall, into our room! Off to the Attic! With our drinks in hand, we set off to explore the attic. Wandering with drinks, is something the staff actually encourages. "It's like adult Disney World!" We were told. So with our drinks in hand, we set off in search of the attic. There were doors to the attic at each end of the hall. The old gentleman and woman painted on the doors, seemed to be standing guard. Blue! The stairway, with blue walls and tiny stars was just the beginning. When we reached the hallway, with its slanted ceiling, it became even more fun. Art, Crazy Lights, Window Nooks... It was like a little fantasy world up there in that attic! We wandered down a couple of halls, admiring the Dr. Seuss-ish lighting and framed art. There were comfy little reading chairs, in alcoves... all too dim for my weary eyes. Searching for Secret Rooms! The real goal was to find the two secret rooms that we had heard about. That was extra tricky because there were actual hotel rooms up on the attic floor and not all guests probably wanted us testing their door. But Heidi felt confident when she found a curious panel with a fierce-looking tiger. She pressed on the wall and suddenly we were inside a dark room with glowing mushrooms. Hidden Staircase The second room was found and we found ourselves wandering through some kind of cave, with glowing stalactites and stalagmites. We made it through the cave to some stairs, that were cleverly lit with glowing strips. We found ourselves coming out a door on the second floor, that was locked from the hall. What fun!! Nighttime After our oddball "bar-hopping" and wandering, we 4 had dinner in the Ironwork Grill. "The Kids" set off for Portland and Don and I grabbed the couch for a while before heading to our Gerry Hysmith room. That was when we discovered the sound issues and found ourselves tucked into our tiny room with no TV to drown out the party sounds down the hall. Luckily the bar closed at 11 and the sound stopped promptly. Morning In the morning, I put on my robe and headed to the marble bathroom for a pretty darn luxurious shower! Then I grabbed coffee at the peaceful Billy Scott Bar. With no one in sight, I was able to look around the room and out the window and imagine 90 years ago... being 90 years old and living here. I can imagine worse things.
What's Notable? We stayed in an historic Masonic Rest Home, filled with festive decor and happy people. By the time I'm 90, there will be a lot of Baby Boomers in search of safe and helpful places to live out their years. Hmmm. I'm thinking this might be what we all need!! Overnight in An Oregon School Don and I have had notable nights in boats, wagons, teepees, caves, barns and much more. This was our first time sleeping in an old school. Back To School There was something extra fun about spending a night at the Kennedy School, at the end of summer. It was that time of year when kids around the country, were getting ready to go back to school. Since 1915 This is how the sleek, one-story school looked when it first opened, in a remote area, 8 blocks from the Portland city line. Young children attended the school until the mid 70's. Today This is how the building looked when Don and I arrived in August. A quarter century before, the old school sat vacant, with threats of demolition. The neighborhood, that had grown around it, fought to keep the building. The McMenamin brothers, who have rescued many historic Oregon properties, stepped in. Entrance I tried to imagine what this space looked like when children entered the front doors in 1915. The ceiling probably looked twice as high, to a firstgrader. The lobby's (original) bas relief panels were probably so high, kids didn't even notice. Young students would have loved giving the gong a mighty strike... but the gong and gong-holding figures weren't there. Most of the art and decor was added when the school/hotel opened in 1997. My Memories of Cooper School... The smell of Kennedy School, conjured up memories of my grade school, built in 1899. I remember walking in those very doors. We had no bas relief decor and there certainly was no gong. But we could see our principal, Mrs. Tone, seated at her desk in the middle of the hall. (she had no office) And I can still smell the janitor's cleaner, with hints of sassafras! Welcome to the Kennedy School! Like all McMenamin properties, there's a lot of whimsical welcoming! At Kennedy School, I especially liked the Welcome Man, painted on an archway. I was also very fond of the painted kitty at the lobby desk. Lots of staff also greeted us, when we checked in. So Many Halls I loved all the reminders of the old school... long hallways and polished wooden floors. The ramps looked original. I could picture a film projector being rolled from class to class in the 1960's. There were details that took me back in time, from light fixtures to wooden windows, radiators and porcelain drinking fountains. Artwork and Photographs The walls and doors were covered with colorful painted accents and designs. The hallways were filled with framed photos and paintings, that helped share stories about the school and those who attended over the years. I was intrigued with the Punch & Judy puppet theatre, as well as the images of children dancing the Maypole. Evidently the Kennedy School still celebrates May Day each year, with some form of Maypole celebration. Headed to Our Room There are 57 rooms at the hotel, but some are in a new addition. I made sure to book a room in the original school house. Our door was right across from the water fountain. Former Classroom One door led to 2 doors, since a large classroom had been divided, to create 2 guest rooms. We followed the chalkboard, past the old black phone. We opened our door, covered in cherry blossom branches and looked down another tiny hall, to our very own, welcoming chalkboard! A Blank Slate! I had been expecting a chalkboard, but I couldn't relax (or get giddy) until I saw that we really had one! I was excited about this blackboard, (as I think we called them) like some hotel guests are about spa packages or Chocolate & Champagne packages. And yes, there were pieces of chalk and a monster eraser, to hide all my mistakes! Ahhhhhh! Our room was my style of heaven. The huge window with a view of lush growth, made the room airy and bright. I wonder how many children sat with chin in hand, staring out that window, avoiding work? Cherry Tree Room? Some of the guest rooms seemed to be named for students or teachers from the past. I wondered about our room's name and all the cherry related words and images on our wall. Then I read about the Nakamura Family, who once donated cherry trees to the Kennedy School. Mr. and Mrs. Nakamura moved to the Portland area from Japan in the 1920's. They raised 7 children, who all attended the school. Sadly, the family was forced to move to a Japanese internment camp in Idaho, during WWII. After a few years, they moved back to Portland and connected with friends and families in the area. Their trees still bloom each April. Soft Bed and Sweet Words I loved our curious headboard and the soft white spread. The words written above our bed and around the room, were poetic and peaceful. No TV... Yes Bathroom We didn't miss having a TV. I'm not sure any of the McMenamin Hotels have them. I should have spent some desk time, writing a little Haiku. But I was pretty caught up with the fun of the chalkboard. Our private bathroom was big plus, that I didn't take for granted. Our other McMenamin stays have involved common bathrooms, so this was a treat. Chalk Entertainment I tend to go overboard with a theme. I was so excited with the idea of staying in a hotel that had once been a school, that I packed my own school supplies. I even made Don listen to me read a few pages of Dick Jane and Sally. Which meant, I read about 8 words in the book. Who Drew This? I had some drawing fun, but did leave a tiny space on the board for Don's artistic expression. I refused to think about math with my chalk, so it's obvious, which contribution he made. Entertainment Around the Hotel While we waited for our daughter and son-in-law to meet us for the evening, we explored some of the other options besides food and drink. The salt water soaking pool looked relaxing. It was where the teacher's lounge used to be. The hotel's movie theatre was housed in the school's former auditorium. It was dark in there, so instead I snapped a pic in the Theatre Bar, with chalk drawn images that looked like movie posters. Clever, but the movie options had no appeal to me. Boiler Room Bar! When Heidi and Jamie arrived, we headed to the 2-level bar that had once been... the boiler room! There was a pool table and shuffleboard and jukebox, lost in the tangle of pipes and unrecognizable metal stuff! A Jumble of Curious Junk I recognized pieces of radiator holding up the banister railing. But I had no idea what the round, 10-ton-looking-metal-thing was, above the table for two. I hope it was well secured. Cozy Booth We 4 settled into a cozy booth and ordered some beer, brewed at the Kennedy School. Concordia Brewery What had one been the girl's lavatory, is now the inhouse brewery. It's named for the surrounding, Concordia neighborhood. Good or Bad? Before dinner we wanted to sample one more of the hotel's curious pubs. The Honors Bar, with its opera and classical music, was luring me. But the youngins were excited about acting up at Detention. The bearded fella seated at the tiny bar gave us a little greeting, then we squeezed into a corner spot. Whiskey Bar I was pretty excited to check out the Study Hall Cocktail Menu, that had a few options for lightweights. I'm not a big whiskey drinker, but I wanted the experience. The "wee old fashioned" for $5.00 was more my size. Courtyard Restaurant By 6, the Courtyard Restaurant was pretty hopping, since it was the only venue open to families. The weather was perfect by that time, so we ended up eating outside, behind a giant Gaudi-style fireplace. Cheese burger, Veggie Burger, Western Salad and Thai Pizza... all decent. Morning The School was so quiet in the morning. It made me realize that many of the guests in the evening are locals, coming to enjoy food, drink and camaraderie. It was nice wandering the grounds and paths before things got busy. I wish we could have explored more of the neighborhood that surrounds. Quiet Breakfast Breakfast was peaceful too. Classical music and coffee was all I really needed, but we split an omelet and it was pretty delicious. It was nice to have sunlight pouring in the windows, so I could study the crazy light fixtures one more time. And how about Happy and Sneezy, above the bar! Or was that Doc and Sleepy? I'll check it out next time. What's Notable? We stayed in an old school, filled with history and art! It was a memorable overnight, for sure! Sharing it with Heidi and Jamie, made it extra fun. It wasn't easy saying good-bye to our brand new Portlandians, before we headed back to Texas. But it was fun knowing we have reason to be out in the area again. Maybe we'll stay again and I'll pack some colored chalk. I can attempt to upgrade my art skills!
Yes! The chalkboard may be what I remember most! One More McMenamins Hotel! In July, Don and I stayed at the Crystal Hotel. It had some pretty wild history! All McMenamins Hotels have some kind of intriguing story. We had just stayed at the Edgefield Inn, a few days before. That hotel was housed, in what had once been a "Poor Farm". The history of Crystal Hotel was just as intriguing. Downtown Portland The 4-story building in Portland's West End, looked charming. But Don and I were a little grumpy by the time we drove through a mess of traffic and laid eyes on it. Don dropped me off and I ran in to ask about parking. The options weren't great, but we lucked out, with a parking meter near the entrance. It only needed to be fed until 7 p.m. Nearby Our drive had taken us through some questionable areas, so I was glad we didn't have to park far away. The area surrounding the hotel seemed lively at 4, so that was good to see. "Hotel Alma" in 1911 In 1911, the history of the hotel began. The building covered the entire triangular-shaped block. The upper 3 floors housed Hotel Alma, a residential hotel. The first floor, held auto-focused businesses. The Cute Annex The Annex at the opposite end of the block, was the most intriguing. I'm not sure if the skinny little addition was there in 1911, but in the 1920's it held a tire store. Today the "Ringler's Annex" holds a cozy bar, with seating that spills out to the sidewalk. In chilly months, the sidewalk is heated. In We Go The entrance on the "wide end" of the triangle had a vintage look. But the tile work was new, since the property wasn't called Crystal Hotel until its reopening in 2011. The Magestic Hotel (as it was called then) was in shambles when the McMenamin brothers bought it for 3-million. Zeus Cafe As we checked in at a small counter, I peeked into the Zeus Cafe. I had heard that it was named after Nate "Zeus" Zusman, who ran the hotel's "Desert Room" nightclub in the late 1940's. Jake's The large windows in the cafe looked across the street to the iconic, Jake's Famous Crawfish. We later learned how Jake's history was tied to our hotel's. More Windows On the opposite side of the "lobby", I found more seating with lots of cozy booths and windows. It felt like I was on a ship and I had just crossed to a different deck. I felt like I should pull up a chair and look out, at the sea of activity. That sounds pretty corny, but there was something about our triangular island hotel, that got my imagination going. I'm still unclear if the whole first floor once held Zeus' Desert Room. But, it was fun to just imagine. I doubt the Desert Room was ever so bright or quiet. In the late 40's, Zeus ran quite a gambling racket, along with his nightclub. He also worked with the madam across the street (Above Jake's Crawfish) to set up call girls when his gamblers needed a little something extra. Our server at Jake's confirmed that their upstairs had once been a house of prostitution. Art in the Stairwell The hotel did have an elevator... ... but the stairs were a lot faster and much more entertaining. We hiked up 4 flights, grinning at the dramatic dark blue walls and chandeliers, painted pipes and curious murals. I wish I knew the stories behind the artwork. Photographs Most of the photographs were labeled, giving clues about the history of our hotel. I was most touched by a photo of the Zakoji family. They moved into The Magestic in 1946, after being released from a Japanese internment camp. The family ran the respectable, residential hotel for 20 years, while Zeus and his Desert Room Nightclub, entertained with booze, gambling and prostitution, below. The Flyin' Home Room All 51 rooms in the hotel were named for the performers or songs. Most were artists who have entertained audiences at the nearby Crystal Ballroom, for over 100 years. I didn't have a clue about "Flyin' Home" when I saw our door. Our Musical Room We were pretty delighted with our black velvet drapes, animal print pillows and fringed lamps! The deep blue walls and cartoonish musical notes were a hoot! I read the words, at the end of the staff. "Lionel Hampton... written with Benny Goodman" I had to look that up. There was a square painting of Lionel Hampton, playing a vibraphone. I looked up the jazzy piece that our room was named for and I pretty much loved it. Good Sleep I was glad we were on the 4th floor and had thick curtains AND it was a weeknight, or there might have been street noise. But our room (and halls) was very quiet. Plus we were sleeping beneath a painted vibraphone, lit by a full moon! Yay for the Sink! This was our second McMenamins hotel in a week, so we had the "shared bathroom thing" down. Like before, we had handy robes and there were no lines. But having a sink in our guest room was a treat! I kind of liked our cozy table corner, too. We had glasses, plus a complimentary mason jar that could be used as a beer "growler" at the hotel's brewery. Exploring the Street Level Before taking off for the evening, I headed down to the hotel's lowest level and found the saltwater soaking pool. The bamboo walls and brick floors made the space more festive than creepy. I greeted a few young men sitting on the benches and promised I wouldn't make them pose. I asked why they weren't in the water. "Too hot!" They laughed. Al's Den It was too early for any entertainment in the basement bar, named for the hotel's other notorious character. Al Winter once ran the hotel's Club Mecca. He was dubbed, "The vice overlord of Portland" by the FBI. Evidently lots of shady deals were made in the basement space, that is now used nightly for acoustic entertainment. Club Mecca in the 1950's Here's the "swanky Club Mecca" in the 1950's after Al had moved on, to Vegas. I wish I could have gone back in time and had a martini at Club Mecca! Music Here... Or There We weren't able to take full advantage of all the music options at the hotel, but we did have a peek in Al' Den around 9:30. A woman with a beautiful voice was performing on guitar. Just a short walk down the street, we peeked at the Crystal Ballroom in the early morning. The venue has held everything from folk-dance gatherings, to performances by Tina Turner. Today, hotel guests get special perks when attending concerts. If we'd only had more time... If Walls and Halls Could Talk I learned after our stay, that the hotel took on a different focus in the 60's and 70's. In the 1960's the building housed a head shop and by the '70's the area was called the Pink Triangle. The hotel was transformed to a gay bathhouse. What's Notable? The building itself was incredibly unique and the renovation and decoration was quite amazing. We've stayed at many hotels with colorful pasts, but this one had more than its share! I feel like we were hardly able to experience the place with our short visit. We didn't make use of the hotel's food, bar, pool or music and that is almost sinful. But our room was comfy and clean and fun. Too bad we couldn't have found a recorded loop of Lionel Hampton's vibraphone. I would have loved drifting off to sleep with that sound!
A McMenamins Hotel Experience! I stayed at the Edgefield with my sister, long before I was writing about "Notable Nights" in a blog. In 2011, I was visiting Jennifer in Oregon, when she enlightened me about the McMenamin brothers, who had been rescuing, restoring and transforming historic properties for years. We decided to spend a night at one of their hotels, just outside of Portland. The property had once been a Poor Farm. "The Multnomah County Poor Farm" of 1911 I remember when Jennifer and I first pulled up to this amazing place, 7 years ago. We knew the property had once been an institution for those in need, but that was just the beginning of what made the place so curious. Hard to Imagine This old photo shows the building over 100 years ago, when the facility opened as a welfare reform effort. The plan was to give refuge for the poor and ill. Those who were able-bodied, worked on the farm. The institution was called a "poor farm" for decades. During the depression the farm held 600 residents, but the numbers dropped during WWII. The institution then became a nursing home, called Edgefield Manor, until it closed in 1982. The Administrator's House When Jennifer and I arrived 7 years ago, there were no rooms left in the main building. We took a guest room in the sweet 2-story house, that had once been the Administrator's home. We felt like young sisters again, sharing a room... with a bathroom down the hall. Arriving With Don Don and I arrived on a beautiful July day, for our Edgefield overnight. We were glad there were rooms available in the main building, even if we couldn't get one with a private bath. Halls and Art The interior was a little dim and stuffy, like I remembered. But the painted doors and murals lifted the institutional feel. Doors! I remembered many of the colorful doors! Each guest room had a painted image, honoring a former resident of the poor farm/nursing home. I hoped our room would have a colorful drummer rabbit or a farmer with bunnies, but our door had an image of a horse behind a door. I could barely even see the horse in the painting. I was briefly disappointed. Old Colonel I didn't appreciate our special room until I read the words about Old Colonel, on the wall. Old Colonel was a horse, not a human resident of the poor farm. A Loyal Horse The words on the wall, told the story of the heroic horse, that once worked for the fire bureau, near Portland. When he retired from fighting fires, he did light duty at the farm, where he was reunited with one of his old colleagues. He and the fireman recognized each other, having worked together for 11 years. Sweet... What's Missing? Our cozy room was missing a few things, like air-conditioning. But, I loved having an open window and a fan! I didn't miss the TV or phone. I was even okay with hiking down the hall for a bathroom. But the absence of a sink, took some getting used to. Exploring After unloading our bags in the room, Don and I took off to explore the halls. I loved the little jack-in-the-box. It was painted, where wall meets the ceiling. I also loved the tiny wall nook, that confused the eye. The woman, window and phone were painted, but the shelf and pamphlets were real. Endless Murals A guest now and then might find some of the artwork creepy or even disgraceful. But most visitors are totally delighted to see how different artists, have playfully incorporated the images of former residents, into the art. There were stories and write ups behind many of the colorful murals. We needed a week to absorb it all. Winery, Brewery and Distillery After wandering the halls, we headed out to the grounds. 100 years ago, there were 330 acres of farmland, where residents worked to provide food for the institution. Today, there are fewer acres, but there are fruit trees and vegetables and herb gardens. The vineyards and brewery and distillery provide good beverages, but jobs as well. Finding a Bite to Eat There were so many choices for food and drink, inside the main building. But for lunch, Don and I wandered outside to the Power Station, that once provided coal-fueled steam heat and electricity to the property. We had a light lunch on the garden patio. Black Rabbit Restaurant The Black Rabbit is the hotel's main restaurant. I remember eating breakfast in a cozy booth with Jennifer. The pretty restaurant was closing, when Don and I were ready for dinner at 10:00, but we got a booth back at the Power Station. Eating late isn't the healthiest, but it turned out to be cheaper. They had a late night Happy Hour Menu! Porches One of my favorite parts of staying both times, was enjoying the many porches. Don and I actually made use of about 3 different ones. Most of the time, we had them to ourselves. Pubs You'd have to have more than a night, or be a total drunken fool, to enjoy all the pubs and taverns. Just finding them was fun enough. Some were hidden inside the building and some were hidden underneath growth! Movie-time You also have to have time, if you want to to fit in a 2-hour movie. Jennifer and I had fun taking photos from the balcony in the movie house. Don and I also peeked inside when it wasn't movie time. That was actually good though. In the dark we would have missed seeing the gremlins near the ceiling. Quick Soak at Ruby's I got to enjoy the salt water pool on both visits. Don and I had to rush after dinner, to get there before closing. We changed and hurried in our cotton bathrobes to "Ruby's Spa" and hit the water by 10:45. At 11, a voice in the pitch dark announced closing time. (luckily there was no whistle) The lack of light actually made the exit of pool guests pretty comical. We offered some cell phone light to one couple who had lost their flip flops. Before long, the guests were all headed down the garden path, towards the hotel... looking like a parade of ghosts in our white robes. Ghosts in the Hall Many of the robed guests continued to wander in the halls, studying the murals. It felt totally different than hours before, when day guests were visiting. It was quiet and cozy and dim. Then the robe-wearing ghosts in the hall, suddenly looked more like patients in a mental ward. That amused me. Ladies Lounge Before turning in, Don and I headed off with our toothbrushes. I walked into the Ladies Lounge, where 2 couches were available, just in case the 2 bathrooms (with toilet, sink and shower) were occupied. Sharing a bath can seem a little intimidating at first. But, our cotton robes seemed to put us all in the same club. It seemed like we were just at summer camp... all enjoying the same oddball experience! What's Notable? My stay at Edgefield was every bit as fun, the second time as the first. I felt like I was floating around in a dream, with all the whimsical art and dim lighting. I love knowing that I didn't see it all. There are so many hidden surprises that I will just have to find next time!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
April 2024
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