#99 Old Faithful Inn - Wyoming

​Yellowstone National Park 
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When Don and I reached this famous log lodge in September, we were about half way through our month-long road trip.

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This was the overnight (out of 27 different places) that I had most looked forward to!

​​Finally!
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I grew up imagining Yellowstone Park from images I had seen on The Wonderful World of Disney and Yogi Bear cartoons.

 In more recent years I've spent a lot of time studying a large framed print that Don and I acquired.  It's a painting of the original "Old House" with its steep, gabled roof.  Less than two months ago, I finally got to lay my eyes on the real thing.   

​Much Drama
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We arrived about 4 pm and the grounds were bustling with tourists.   The eight fluttering flags on the roof seemed to add to the giddy atmosphere. The Old Faithful geyser was already sputtering and teasing a crowd that gathered on the walkway.

When the geyser finally erupted, there were cheers and cameras clicking and I had to remind myself this was real and I wasn't at Disney World. There's one piece of drama that we didn't get to see.  We were 67 years too late to see the geyser illuminated at night. They removed the "searchlights" from the roof walk in 1948. 

​Heading Inside
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I had to wait till late at night to get a picture of the red doors opening to an empty lobby.  

I wish I had also gotten a photo of the crowds earlier.  It was quite a sight to see the lobby floor, buzzing with guests, holding luggage handles or cups of coffee or ice-cream cones... all looking upward.  

Wood & Stone
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​The  multi-storied log lobby was mesmerizing. So many wood beams and pillars... supporting and twisting and curving.  

And all that wood was surrounding the mighty stone fireplace, that rose right up to the top of the structure! Alive? Like a scene from Fantasia or the creepy trees in Wizard of Oz, I almost expected to see the rustic lodge come to life!

​Enjoying Every Angle
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After checking in, Don and I couldn't stop wandering.  We had to view the interior from every level and angle. 

I had seen photos before, so I knew about the impressive 7-story interior.  But I felt like a little kid, gasping at the sight of Santa for the first time. How is it possible that a 29 year old man designed this? And how is it possible that they had the knowledge and equipment to start building such a structure in 1903?

​Eight Hearths and a Clock!
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The stone fireplace dominated the lobby with its 16-foot square base. The lava stone work was crazy enough, but there were some other exciting accents.  There was a gigantic, gnarly piece of tree, nearly growing out of the stone. 

And there were 4 large hearths on each face of the chimney, with 4 more tiny ones at the corners!  (Enough space for every child-guest to hang a Christmas stocking!) Only 2 of the original 8 hearths still operate, but the original custom ironwork clock still tics and tocs.  

​Love Them Stairs!
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We did a lot of stair climbing, looking for the best views and best seats.  The crooked railings and swooping banisters were just comical.  

I could picture Yogi and BooBoo sliding down that polished wood!  Actually, many of the logs were once covered in bark.  I wonder how much bark was peeled off by curious kids... or banister riders?

Sitting
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​Don and I tried out rockers and cozy leather sofas on both of the levels of balconies.  Peering down over the railing, it felt like we were in an old opera house watching a show of people below.  Actually, later that night we did see a "show". We sat near the clock's hypnotic pendulum and enjoyed the sound of music coming from a piano tucked into a corner across from us.  

It was late and there were mostly empty chairs. It almost felt like a private concert.   Then the performer, closed her piano and took out a cello.  She moved to a chair by the railing and ended her performance with the most beautiful piece, that I vaguely recognized. The lovely sound was dreamlike as it floated into the open space.  She finished and Don and I raised our hands high to clap.  Others in different areas of the lodge joined in.  

So Much to Study
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​Early and late when there were fewer people to watch, we still found much to study while sitting in those fabulous chairs.  The whimsical supports and beams were constantly reminding me...  "Yes, wood comes from trees."  You can't forget that.  

It's hard to imagine how many trees were cut down to make this lodge, yet how wonderful to see the character of each tree revealing itself, with all its twists and curves!  And look how they clean those endless poles and beams! What a surprise to spot the young man using a towel and rope to dust, where no white glove would ever reach!

Crow's Nest
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​The "Crow's Nest" looks like a child's dream treehouse, perched right below the ceiling, over 70 feet up! Musicians once entertained guests from that platform and I can only imagine how magical that must of been, with guests dancing far below.

I don't know if anyone is allowed up there anymore. But, I spoke with  a "tourist" who had worked at the lodge during summer breaks from college, 40 years ago.  She said she remembered sneaking up there at least once per summer. "...even though we knew we'd be fired if caught."

What About Accommodations?
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​Original rooms in the "Big House" can cost over $500. 00, if you want a bathroom and view.  If only Don and I had known to request one of the rooms along the "loggy" hall downstairs.  

The hall itself was charming, like a Lincoln Log house!  If you're willing to put up with a shared bath down the hall, you can have a room with log walls and some original fixtures and furnishings.  Some won't put up with sharing a bath, but I peeked at the Ladies Room and it was classic! They had marble stalls and spacious showers with fancy tile work! I would have gone for that.

Our Room
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​Our room was in the west wing, which was added in 1927.  The price was almost twice the cost of an old "loggy room" and we had to hike down numerous halls and down a few sets of stairs to get there.   There was nothing lodge-like about our remodeled room.  It could have been Holiday Inn Express.  

The space was perfectly okay, with tidy Mission Style (new) furniture and a window looking at trees (and parking lot)  We were fine with no phone or TV and we were amused by the stuffed buffalo on the bed.  But I would have given up our very mediocre bathroom with shower stall, to have had one of the rooms in the Old House.  Next time!

Spending Time... Outside the Room

With a crowded lodge, we were surprised to find open bar stools at the Bear Pit Lounge, with a great view of the etched glass and the carved wood panels.  ​​

I wish I could have better captured the whimsical animals etched in the glass. The images of lively creatures (many dancing) were inspired by the etched wood murals, that decorated the original bar. A bar that was built at the end of prohibition. 
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Dining

​This view is from a balcony that looks down on the lobby, as well as the dining room.  ​

It's also a spot where years ago musicians performed for diners, before they moved to their higher perch, in the Crow's Nest.  We looked down and studied the room, hoping our 8:30 reservations would be in the more rustic front room, not the back addition. 

Lucked Out!
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​We lucked out and had a great table,. 

We had a view of the bar's etched glass and the fireplace, with the Old Geyser painting above the mantle.

Cookbook Goes to Dinner
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​Luckily my 1950 Ford Motor Cookbook, featured a potato pancake recipe, from Old Faithful Inn. I hoped to have some fun with this book. tried to place an order.

I tried to place an order for potato pancakes and our server laughed at my request. He said it wasn't on the menu. I told him I would tell him later, just why I had asked.

(I've waited tables before and know when not to bother a busy server.)

​​Love the Plate!
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I ordered rotini with parmesan, mushrooms and vegetables. Don went for some bison bratwurst, pheasant & chicken sausage with sauerkraut.  All was pretty tasty and the old plate design made it extra fun.  

When we finished dining, the room was quiet enough to share the cookbook with Christoph.  He didn't roll his eyes at my Baby Boomer Nostalgia. He was actually delighted and showed other servers... who were playfully, happy to pose!

The Great Outdoors!
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​It's important to focus on the outside as much as the inside at Old Faithful!  The laziest, most decadent way to enjoy the outside is from the observation terrace.

The deck gets jammed when crowds want a view of the erupting geyser.  But it was perfect before sunset, with a glass of wine. 

...or with a very HUGE bottle of wine.

This group was celebrating their 17th year in a row gathering at the lodge. They wandered the deck and shared their wine with anyone who was thirsty!

​​Deck Views
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​While lounging on the deck it was fun to have a closer view of the gabled dormers and the diamond paned windows.  

There's no a.c. at the ​lodge, so we saw windows open and curtains fluttering. We also got to watch the flags being removed from upper walkway.  I wanted to run up and see if they needed help!

Views Old Faithful
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​The rows of rigid benches were filled during dramatic Old Faithful eruptions.

It was a nice elevated view, but we preferred to be down on the ground...

With the Crowds
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​This photo doesn't even capture the immense size of the crowd.

It was pretty amusing listening to the voices rise and fall each time the geyser faked a big display, then fizzled. "Oh come on baby, you can do it!"  One elderly woman encouraged.

Better Yet 
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​But the absolute best time for viewing was at sunrise, when the air was still and chilly.  

The sun made the geyser look like it had caught fire.  Once again I was brought back to a childhood memory. I half expected to see the image of "The "Great and Powerful Oz" appear behind that steaming flame!

More Steam... and Critters 
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​We wandered the wooden walkways on the grounds that next morning.  There were such dramatic images of steam and clouds and eerie morning light.

But the biggest treat was spotting some furry friends enjoying the morning with us.

Two coyotes trotted through the grass not far from us.  One coyote must have read the same sign we read, that warned us about the thin crust that covers the boiling springs and scalding mud.  A dozen people have been killed.  Mr. Coyote climbed onto the wood path and seemed to be content playing it safe, like us.  The lone buffalo across the Firehole River, wandered a bit, then napped comfortably.

​Good-Bye Geysers and Lodge

We explored the grounds until breakfast and check out. It really was an amazing place, with many more geysers and highlights than I had expected.

The Beehive Geyser was just steaming when we walked beside it.  ​

By the time we got back to the lodge it was spurting up through the nozzle, while a couple of curious tourists observed nearby.  That looked dangerously close to me!

​What's Notable?
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​I was delighted to be able to conclude, the lodge was as charming as the old picture I've been staring at for years.  We had a less than a 24-hour experience, but that was enough time to observe the lodge from different angles and at different times of day.  

The Contrast! That's what I'll always remember. I was sort of amused by the carnival atmosphere when busloads of tourists filled the lobby and grounds at peak hours. But I adored the peaceful wee hours, viewing the historic inn without distraction. Only then could I really imagine 1904, when women wore long dresses and men wore hats and puffed on cigars. Guests arrived with steamer trunks... How lucky that we could enjoy the lively and the quiet side, of Old Faithful Lodge!
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