Dubuque's Grandest This fall, Don and I stayed in the grandest hotel of Dubuque, Iowa! Well, the tallest and oldest maybe. The 8-story, 133 room hotel on Main Street, is indeed impressive today. Long Ago The history of Hotel Julien, began as Waples House Hotel, in 1839... or 1844? (I've read both) The impressive building was Dubuque's first lodge. The Waples House was enlarged, refurbished and renamed Julien House, in 1854. (Why'd they remove all the fun stuff?) In 1913, a massive fire destroyed most of the hotel, but it was rebuilt. Julien Dubuque? It wasn't until we arrived at our hotel that I allowed myself to even wonder about the name Julien. Or the name Dubuque for that matter. Julien Dubuque was actually a person. Most Iowans probably know that. But I had to wander around to the rear entrance of the hotel to learn a little history. The sculpture near the back door, gave me a little hint. The plaque above the mighty, shirtless hero, told me that Julien Dubuque was the "Adventurer and FOUNDER" of Dubuque! We found more images of the the rugged fellow around town! Is that an earring? He looks like Tom Selleck. Afternoon Arrival It was a pretty fall afternoon when we arrived in Dubuque. We parked in a free lot and crossed Main Street, to the brick and stone building, The exterior still looked neat and tidy, after a major renovation from 2007-2009. There were 3 enormous windows. From inside, the lower half offered views from the lobby. You could gaze our the upper half, from the mezzanine. Lobby The lobby was nicely redone with a circular settee in the center, holding a generous display of flowers. I wonder how the lobby looked when Al Capone once owned the hotel. Or is that true? I read that he owned the hotel for a short time, when he liked to escape to Dubuque from Chicago. Really? Closed Rats, the Riverboat Lounge was closed on Sunday. I couldn't even peek in through the dark glass. Since I knew the Mississippi River was just a couple blocks away, I pictured the lounge playing up the Riverboat Theme, quite well! Letters & Lincoln It was fun spotting little bits from the past. There was a grand old mailbox, near the elevator. Wish I'd had a letter to send. There was nice display in the front of the lobby with old photos and news clips. Supposedly Abe paid a visit to the hotel, long before he was president. Long before his beard. Where to Hang Out? Don and I are always in search of the best spot to hang out. I knew it wasn't going to be the fancy settee in the lobby, There was a nice area around the fireplace. And there was another cozy spot behind the stairs. We seemed to have the hotel to ourselves. Heading Up We headed up to explore more. The elegant stairway made a dramatic split... where you could pause and ponder which direction to go, while checking your hairdo in the mirror. The giant mirror was actually salvaged from the Ziegfeld Theatre in NYC. Supposedly many performers from Will Rogers to W.C. Fields, checked their costumes in this mirror before hitting the stage. Mezzanine I do appreciate a 2-story lobby, where you can sit below and study activity above. Best of all, I love wandering the mezzanine level and enjoying every angle of the lobby below. If there had been just a little lobby activity, it would have been more entertaining. I could have spied on the arriving travelers, without them noticing. The Ballroom There wasn't any activity in the Ballroom either. If I'd been 6-year-old Eloise who lived at The Plaza Hotel (in my favorite childhood book) I would have made use of all the open space. Actually Don and I have been known to sneak in a quick dance step, in empty ballrooms... Hanging Out on the Second Floor We were disappointed that we couldn't make use of the Riverboat Lounge during our stay. So we turned to the empty Mezzanine and let it be our own private lounge. The railings made us feel like we were on the upper deck of a riverboat. And the rounded windows, gave us a view! We made drinks in our room and brought them to the comfy chairs and had a lovely time. It was fun to see the upper portion of those grand windows, that I'd admired from outside. We didn't get to view the Mississippi, since it was behind the hotel. But it was fun looking out at the old buildings. A few had curious murals. Caroline's The doors to the hotel's restaurant reminded me of a fancy supper club, in the 1960's. It was 1962 when the hotel changed hands and became the modern "Julien Motor Inn". The term motor inn clearly was attempting to attract more car travelers. My family's Ford Galaxy would have been welcomed nicely in 1962! Stained Glass and Plates I took a peek behind those diamond doors and found a rather grand dining table with some curious features. The stained glass on the right, looked noteworthy. Was that an air vent on the left lower wall? Such curious swirls of metal. I of course loved the illuminated display of plates! Plate displays can be for sort of cheesy, but these were old china plates from famous hotels. I adore vintage hotel china and I recognized a few hotels that are on the Notable Night blog! Time to Eat After wandering a bit (and finding more china displays) and peeking at the menu, we were sold. The large dining room only had a few guests, but the wait staff made the atmosphere warm and welcoming. My Cobb Salad was insane! Insanely good! And look at the metal work behind me. Does that match the vent in the special dining room? Don's Pretzel Crusted Chicken with taters and asparagus was delish. We were pleasantly surprised. Lack of diners was not a reflection of the chef! 8th Floor Room We had asked for an upper room, in hopes of a decent view. We were happy for an elevator to help get our bags to the 8th floor. Once again we were glad to have at least one comfy chair, for our one traveler with a bad back! There was plenty of space and I was pleased to see real coffee mugs and real wine glasses! We've seen so many disposables, since the pandemic. The bathroom was decent enough, but once again, the frosted glass door to leading to the bathroom annoyed me. I often rise much earlier. Poor Don had to put up with a glowing guest room, when I showered at 6. But the space was decent enough. Who knows how guests dealt with bathing and toilet issues when this was Waples House! Window!! Our room faced Main Street, so no view of the Mississippi. But I totally enjoyed gazing out our window, at anytime of day! At 7:30 am, I loved seeing the morning light, glowing on the distant bluffs. At 11 am, I could watch a little more activity on the sidewalk, along Main Street. Or check the flower boxes and rooftops! Best of all I could zoom in, like Jimmy Stewart in Rear Window. I spotted no murders, but I did zoom in and notice that some workmen were preparing to work on a steeple. And after a long morning of walking, I was able to recognize the places we explored. I could spot the white building at the top of the fabulous railway, that took us up to the high bluff... with the best view of Dubuque! Exploring Dubuque We were happy that check out was at noon. That gave us a full morning to explore historic old Dubuque, before loading the car. We had done zero research before our arrival. No expectations! So our morning of wandering, totally thrilled us with one surprise after another! What's Notable? There was nothing over the top memorable about the historic building or our room itself. But I will always remember our "private" mezzanine and our relaxed and tasty dinner. I'll remember our view that delighted me, even if it included a parking lot and roof solar panels. Mostly my memories will be about the connection of the hotel with the historic city. It may not be a huge tourist destination, but there was lots to see. So many curious old buildings in such a small area, between the bluffs and river! Comfy hotel, easy parking and fun wandering!
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The Willows In October, we spent 2 notable nights in a Chicago hotel, that had a rather welcoming name. At least it seemed welcoming to me! The Willow is my favorite tree. I love their sweeping branches! The word willow just sounds comforting. It rhymes with pillow after all! Our Hotel on Surf Street I was pleased when we turned down tree lined, Surf Street and spotted our French Provincial style hotel. But I didn't notice any willows. Now when I look at my photo, I wonder. Could that be some form of a willow branch, hanging in the foreground? I never learned how the hotel got its Willows name. The first name Hotel Surfridge, makes more sense. In 1924, the hotel was built on a long narrow lot, in Chicago's Lakeview Neighborhood... on Surf Street! Why Chicago? Our reason for finding a hotel in Chicago, had to do with a wedding! That's always a good reason for a trip. Our daughter flew in from Austin, to attend the wedding with us. I was hoping to put us up in the city, at the iconic Drake Hotel, or the modern-glam Swissotel, overlooking Navy Pier. But rates were sky high that weekend. We couldn't afford 500-dollar rooms! Decent Price When I came across The Willows on the internet, the photos looked charming. Ornate exterior, black awnings, pretty plants. Reviews about the boutique hotel, were positive. It was located far from most tourist sites, but just blocks from Lincoln Park and the zoo. Rainy Arrival The price was still high... for us at least. ($325. a night) But we snagged a room with 2 queens. Heidi was more than happy to just bunk up with good ole Mom & Dad. We 3 arrived on a rainy Friday afternoon. It was nice having the awning to unload bags, on that drizzly day. We opened the door and greeted the little statue, as we wiped our feet. Formal-Comfy From the entry we stepped down into the lobby. The ionic columns felt formal. A very polite gentleman behind the curved desk, also seemed a bit formal. But he warmed up and was pleasantly chatty. The lobby furniture appeared to be comfortable! There were 3 small areas of seating, in the cozy lobby. Formal - Whimsical The seating around the fireplace was set up rather properly, but the comfy leather chairs were a treat. (we weren't in the mood for rigid Victorian) There was a traditional European old world feel to the space, until you took a good look at the walls. Whacky Animal Theme Yep, every framed photo featured an animal or two. Abe Lincoln with a baby leopard on his shoulder. 3 mice in suits! Even behind the desk, there were odd photos of people with animals. A woman riding an ostrich? Al Capone with a parrot? I asked our host and he laughed that these were all rigged photos. "We just have a bit of an animal theme at our hotel, since we're near the zoo." I was sad that he couldn't confirm that Al Capone had been a guest once. I'd read that he'd stayed and made use of a secret tunnel. Coffee Area The lobby also had a tall table set up near the coffee station. There was no restaurant, but we saw a few people bringing in carryouts and enjoying them at the table. Complimentary coffee was available 24-7. Each time I grabbed cup, I found something new to admire. A cleverly decorated windowsill... with a turtle shell? Cafe Tables My favorite sitting area was right beside the front windows. At times we saw a guests playing cards, or sipping coffee. On a rainy day, it was fun to sit and look out. I spotted folks jogging... dog walking... pushing strollers. It really did remind me of Europe, where rain doesn't stop activity! Floor Two There are 55 rooms in the 4-story hotel. Our room was on the second, so stairs were quicker than the slow elevator. I was amused by the endless narrow hallway, with its wavy floor. We were at the very end, so I usually felt a little drunk by the time we reached the door! Critters on the Wall As we walked to our room, I admired the framed animal silhouettes. Our door number on the second floor, had an animal as well. I'm still not sure if that was a brahma bull on our door? If so, we were on the Brahma Floor. Room 224 We'd kept expectations low for our historic double queen room. I knew some reviews had complained about old decor. But the room served its purpose well. The long and narrow space worked fine. And we even had a complimentary bottle of wine. I think that was a special booking perk. There was a desk that we never used and drawers that weren't needed. But there was a ceiling fan, which I loved for noise! Two Windows I always love a room with a view and this one had an unusual one. Our 2 windows looked down on parking garages. We just laughed at that and lowered the shade. Unique Bathroom I was sort of delighted by the crazy bathroom, with its pink tile and gold framed mirror. The toilet area was worth a photo! Glass block, surrounding a vintage Jalousie window, plus a radiator hanging overhead! There was a real bathtub, which I enjoyed! Robes! Sorry Don! There were 2 robes and The Girls got them! What fun to wear matching robes with my daughter and watch SNL on TV! Yay for that! Mornings On both mornings we enjoyed breakfast in the lobby with coffee and food from nearby shops. Just steps away from our hotel, we found Stan's Donuts and Olor Coffee Bar! We had "pop tarts" from Foxtrot and breakfasts tacos from yet another nearby shop! Maybe not the healthiest way to start the day, but enjoyable! Nighttime at The Willows We were tied up both nights, so we didn't spend lots of time hanging out at the hotel. Both evenings we opted for Ubers, instead of pulling our car from the $25 -a night garage, to deal with traffic. When we did step out at night, the area felt safe and friendly. I must say, I was impressed with the neighborhood vibe. Exploring the Area The weather definitely inhibited out wandering a bit. My umbrella was useless, since the wind only turned it inside out. But the area was still fun for exploring. Heidi and I walked to Lake Michigan one afternoon. I wandered early in the morning to admire the architecture in the neighborhoods. The 3 of us found numerous restaurants, within walking distance! And best of all, everything felt safe and clean. Maybe the rain played a part? What's Notable The Willows wasn't the most ideal, luxurious or cheapest hotel, but there was something about the 100-year-old building that just grew on me. It was a treat to come and go so easily. The staff was always friendly and welcoming. The rain almost made our stay cozier! And if it had been a few degrees chillier, they would have started up the fireplace! Now that would have been nice!
I would say the location and relaxed, comfy atmosphere made it a good stay. And today the price is only $104.! So that is a much better deal! Sleeping at the Mill Don and I spent a night in a textile mill! That was a first! It was a chilly October day when we spent the night in the 168-year-old mill. Millwright? I was intrigued when I searched the internet and found Hotel Millwright.Their website was educational and inviting. I didn't know a Millwright was an occupation. The hard workers in the photo below, could be millwrights. ? But maybe not. A millwright is more than a factory worker. "A millwright is a craftsperson or skilled tradesperson who installs, dismantles, maintains, repairs, reassembles, and moves machinery in factories, power plants, and construction sites." Long History Our hotel was within the old Amana Woolen Mill complex. It dates back to 1855, when German "Radical Pietists" fled their homeland and settled in east central Iowa. The mill sits in the middle of the Village of Amana. (There are 7 villages in the Amana Colonies... worth Googling!) For 80 years, the colonies were mostly self-sufficient. Through crafting and farming, the families lived a communal life, until 1932. Hotel Millwright In the mid 1800's, the textile mill was the industrial center of Amana. Today, it's still a producing wool products... the only remaining textile mill in Iowa. In recent years, some of the buildings on the property have been renovated into impressive hotel rooms, dining and event spaces. Arriving In Amama It was about 5 on a Thursday, when Don and I arrived in the Village of Amana. The quaint town looked tidy and decorated and very quiet on a blustery fall evening. Millwright Lobby The 8-acre complex, looked equally quiet There were so many buildings! I finally spotted the lobby entrance, next to the old smoke stack. Lobby I had to grin when I stepped through the doors. Soaring ceilings, exposed pipes and beams. Brick walls here, concrete there. Scattered sitting areas throughout. What a fabulous renovation! The staff at the desk seemed delighted to share about the history, The older gentleman showed me around the lobby. The younger woman at the desk pointed out the complimentary popcorn, that had just finished popping! My kind of place! I crossed the room where I spotted an artistic wall, decorated with colorful spools of wool. I headed for the door and paused at the peculiar fireplace. Yes! Don and I will need to sit there later and eat popcorn! Here and There I was eager to get settled in our room, but I was dying to get out and explore the grounds, before the rains came. The weather was already damp and windy. There were so many fun areas for sitting out! If it had just been warmer. The Electric Thread Social Club was in a cute separate building. There was a patio with tables and strings of festive lights, but the chilly temps made it less tempting. Quick Look at the Property I dashed from one building to the next, taking it all in. Brick, stucco...wood.. Fall flowers still lingering... I read "Warped & Woven" on one building. A shop! Rats, it was closed. I read "Carding Studio" on another. I clearly needed a tour guide to explain it all! I loved finding a cluster of gliding Adirondack chairs, near the white building. If only we'd had some of those cozy Amana wool blankets, we could have braved the wind and glided for a while! Inside Halls We parked near a back entrance and wandered down some interesting hallways, to find our room. The gray walls held classy displays of old pieces of mill equipment. Intriguing old photos and artwork lined other walls. What were the rolling bins used for? Room 123 Our room on the first floor was spacious and comfy. We even had some very clever "Do not disturb" door hangers! "Counting Sheep" and "Tied Up!" Love it!! There was a strange pillar in the room and metal pieces jutting from the freshly painted wall. Those were reminders that we were not staying at a nicely renovated historic hotel. This room probably never had paint on the walls until a few years ago. Who knows what this very space was used for 100 years ago? The king bed almost looked small, in the large room. The view wasn't the best. Just a wall with trees beyond. But I believe the Mill Race canal was on the other side of the wall. The canal played a big part in the mill. For over a century, the mill has produced top quality woolens, sold throughout the U.S. Our bed was covered in one of those luxurious wool blankets. Wall Decor I loved the history, decorating the walls in our room. The men in the photo above our bed, didn't look thrilled as they labored with wool. I hope they slept well at night, under cozy woolen blankets! The bathroom and sitting areas were clean and sleek and comfortable. Don always appreciates a good chair. He got his wish. Steps Away The whole building was filled with curious stuff! Just outside of our room we had a massive loom from the early 1900s. Once used for making wool carpets. There were so many mystery items. What were those cylinders? Now, I did of course recognize the toy Amana truck! My family owned an Amana deep freeze in the 1960's. It was in 1936 that another mill in the Colonies closed and became a factory, that produced refrigerators! "Amana... a Raytheon Company" are the words on the toy. Endless Stuff! Don and I explored inside, as weather got stormy outside. Sometimes old photos helped us understand what the odd pieces of machinery once did. Other machines needed no explanation. There wasn't a hall or stairway, that didn't urge us to stop and ponder. I loved the clever ways they displayed the wool fabric designs. The People And the photos! I could have stood and studied faces forever! Who were these people who lived in Amana, in separate kitchen-less houses... eating meals in communal dining halls... working for no pay? A Utopia? Not sure about that. But I would so love to speak to someone who remembers living in the Amanas. Sitting a Spell Don and I wandered and lounged a bit, here and there. The fireplace was made of a curious blend of discarded materials. I had a hard time sitting still with all these wild displays that begged me to touch! Don knows more about odd drills and he showed me how the thing worked. Eating and Dining Besides the Electric Thread Club, we had lots of dining and drinking options in our building. All looked cool and warehouse-y! None of the chairs looked comfy. When we spotted two comfy chairs beneath the old Indigo Blue advertisement, we happily took a seat. Don got us drinks from the bar and we toasted to the Amana Colonies! We always have a toast at every hotel. The Indigo Room After we finished our drinks we moved into the restaurant area and sat in a cushioned booth, beneath a wall decorated in circles. Some circles were covered in wool fabric. Others circles displayed old photographs. For less than $20. Don and I had a simple and delicious feast of Mushroom & Prosciutto Pizza AND Fried Pork Cutlet Sliders! Look at the giant crusty meat on Don's tiny bun! Crazy! Morning Don and I slept well in our quiet room. I woke before dawn and did my usual. I threw clothes and coat on, over my pjs and dashed out to see what the world looked like! It was still windy and drizzly, but I my raincoat and it did the job. Weaving Building I saw lights in some lower windows of the old Weaving Building. What a treat to be able to peek in the low windows and see the space where wool blankets and throws are still made today. There must be a name for the magical design, that is sort of created when the individual yarn strands fan out, from their spools. The hotel's logo made much more sense after I peered in the windows. Quick Walk As the drizzle turned to rain, I headed down the empty street towards town. I hated knowing we had to leave early that morning. I so wish we could have explored the town and a few of the other Amana Villages. It was hard to pull away at 8 on that quiet morning. What's Notable? Even though Hotel Millwright's website made the hotel look very inviting, Don and I weren't sure what to expect. It was even more classy and cozy and interesting that we had imagined. For $100.(+tax) we stayed in a lovely, immaculate room, in a hotel that was once a textile mill! Even though my photo here looks a little ominous, the grounds are also immaculate and welcoming. I so hope the tourists who flock to the Amama Villages will support this wonderful place. I'm so glad the history has been preserved so that we can all enjoy!
NOLA in Eureka Springs In September, Don and I got to enjoy the flavor of New Orleans, in the Arkansas Ozarks. The winding streets of Eureka Springs are a lot hillier than Nola's French Quarter. But the old buildings with iron balconies, have always reminded us of New Orleans. Eureka Springs is a mountain town with no stoplights. Nola is a bustling city of nearly 400,00. But both attract lively tourists. Quiet on September 6 However, the streets in Eureka Springs were surprisingly quiet when we arrived on the Wednesday after Labor Day Weekend. That's pretty much what Don and I needed. A comfy quiet hotel, without parades of crowds. I was coming down with a cold and the ice cream shop on the first floor, looked inviting! In fact it seemed like it could be downright medicinal! Heading In We headed towards the hotel's entrance and I noticed the sign for The Voodoo Lounge. There might be something helpful for my throat there, as well! Looking Down Before we stepped inside, Don and I noticed the grid of glass on the sidewalk. We've recently gotten interested in the history of these curious sidewalk features, found in some older cities. Since 1892 Breanne greeted us at the desk when we entered. She seemed somewhat surprised that we mentioned the glass sidewalks. She said the basement restaurant would be open the next the morning if we wanted to see the light coming through. Since 1892 The lobby looked clean and inviting, for a 131 year old hotel. I wondered how much was original, from when the hotel opened as the Wadsworth Hotel, in 1892. There were 50 rooms, then. Each offered steam heat and electric lights. 50 cents a night... or a dollar, if you wanted a bath. Looking Around the Lobby While checking in I peeked around at some of the lobby antiques. I love old treasures, but I don't love spaces that are jam packed with antiques. This was just about right. We've stayed at 3 other iconic Eureka Springs hotels. All have been curious and fun... but all were uncomfortably busy (and dusty) with doodads and decor. Maybe it was the lack of people, that made the lobby space seem large and welcoming. Usually I love a little people-watching in a lobby. But my cold made me more excited about hanging out in our room. Upstairs First things first. I was a bit worn out and cranky, but I had to check out the staircase. I love old staircases! I took a hike to the second floor and looked down. Then up to the 4th... or was that the 6th? Confusing? I took in the view of the lobby. I could see the ice cream parlor was open. Yay! Later... I peeked down some halls on the second floor and felt relieved that we'd booked a first floor room. Maybe it was my mood. Maybe it was seeing a couple of men wandering around with their unlit cigarettes, that made the floor less appealing. None of them seemed interested in the lonely pool table. Balconies I knew the balconies on the second and third floors, were available to all guests. So I checked both out. I'm always in search of a nice place to relax with a view. The views from both levels were nice and I did spot a rocker or two. But there were ashtrays and lingering smells of smoke. Wondering As I took in the view of Spring Street below, I wondered what it looked like when The Wadsworth opened over a century ago. Horses? Dirt instead of pavement? What was the hotel like in 1915, when it became Hotel Allred. Who sat out on the balconies back then? I also began to wonder why they called this a 6-story hotel, when only 4 floors were in view from the front. Presidential Suite After my exploring, I was ready to relax in our Presidential Suite. Yep. Don and I booked the most expensive room in the hotel. We never do that. But most "Presidential Suites" can't be experienced for $229.99. I had a cold and Don had an aching back, so we went for it. We didn't even have to climb stairs, since the entrance was lobby level, across from the Voodoo Lounge. Entrance to Our Suite The door to our suite looked nice. The transom had been decorated. It looked like some kid of sand art, or something made with finger-paints. For just over 200 dollars, we had a suite that had its own hall! How very dramatic! Bathroom Suite I'm not sure about square footage, but it was a huge space, with lots of room dividers. At the end of the hall, we turned left to see the bathroom... which led to a sunroom porch. I was totally amused but the very intriguing bathroom layout. The curtain, leading to the sunroom reminded me of something Carol Burnett wore in one of her hysterical TV skits. The photo was taken after I adjusted the curtain a bit. It looked funnier before. The toilet was black and had its own little closet. The black theme continued, with the hexagonal sink. The tub-for-two, was to the right of the curtains. I'm not sure if this was all part of the big renovation in the 1980's. I know there was one in 1984. Sleeping Quarters Website photos let us know to not expect Victorian furniture. We love our old and authentic, but Don was ready for the comfy couch he'd seen in photos. Victorian does not work for a tall men who have back issues. The room was spacious and the king bed was comfortable. I liked having 2 luggage stands for a change. There was a ceiling fan and lamps and bedside tables. That's the good stuff. The Couch My photo does not reveal the closeup creepiness of that couch. The built in cupholders were dark and creepy. The sticky fake leather was creepy. The plastic material was shredded from years of lounging. Where did this couch come from? Luckily the bath towels were large and Don rigged up "slipcovers". I told him, "Enjoy. I don't need to use the couch thank you." Modern Homey The place really does look pretty fine in my photos. We had a decent table with chairs, lots of books, coffee maker, ice maker and microwave! We could have played cards into the night. But the rips here and scratches there, looked weary. The ice-maker was a nice thought, but it made a jolting crash, every time a few cubes dropped down. We thought of unplugging... then pictured things melting. Friends in the Room I wonder how many "Presidential Suites" have gnome collections? In our suite, we must have had about 20 gnomes sitting on books and windowsills. I guess most would take gnomes over ghosts any day. I found myself just plain amused as I wandered the suite in search of little men with cone hats. The Sunroom! This was my favorite place! My photo only shows half of the sunroom. I loved that we could open the windows and feel the fresh air. I was happy to stay far away from that black couch and swivel back and forth and stare out at the spiral fire escape. Don's back and my cold felt much better, after we had a glass of wine! Steps Away We were so comfy, we could have stayed put in our little sunroom. But we knew the Voodoo Lounge was just outside our door. We had to check it out. I had a cold and hardly wanted a drink, but the bartender had no other customers and he seemed quite eager to make me some kind of purple cocktail, that I didn't attempt to finish. Don ordered a Sazerac and reminded himself later... "Save Sazeracs for the real New Orleans." But we had a nice chat, decorated our drinks with some Mardi Gras beads and then headed to the car in search of food. Out Back Don and I don't usually wimp out on our overnight adventures. But we'd been on the road returning from a family reunion. We were pooped and not hungry after a late lunch. We opted for a dinner of travel nibbles. We headed out the front, then down the steps of the narrow passage between our hotel and another building. As we headed to the small parking lot behind the hotel, I looked back and counted 6 stories. Oh yeah. That's Eureka Springs for you. 4 floors in front and 6 in back. Tricky job building hillside structures! From the alley-street behind, we had a good view of our funny sunroom, built out over a balcony which held air-conditioner units. Curious! Nighttime After nibbling away on dinner of cheese and crackers, I headed out to see our hotel after dark. The front was festive with Mardi Gras colors. The back was eerie and grand. The spiral staircases seemed to be daring me to give it a climb! I headed back to the front and looked at the sign. The Quarter on Spring. We would have breakfast there in the morning! The glass sidewalk was glowing blue and green, when I stepped over it. Breakfast in the Basement In the morning we were starved. The hotel had recently begun serving breakfast in their basement lounge. We traveled down the stairs, covered in Fleur-de-lis carpet. Kind of like the VooDoo Lounge, we were the only guests. The gold sparkly walls and black linens could have seemed creepy, but it was actually a fun festive space. Surprises up High Instead of gnomes, we spotted other creatures, above the bar. Two peacocks glowed on either side of the gator head. Above the gator and peacocks, we could see the morning light coming down through the glass! What an ingenious idea, so many years ago! Basement lighting! Eggs Benedict We've had some memorable New Orleans' brunches. over the years. Our breakfast at New Orleans Hotel was memorable and tasty! For $13. I had a fabulous feast... while wearing my Mardi Gras tee-shirt! Don ordered the chef's special Pancake Pasta for $13. Lemon Poppyseed Buttermilk pancakes, served in pasta-like strips... with fruit compote sauce! Yummy and fun! I had to show Don how to properly eat his pasta breakfast! We were delighted when Chef JC came out of the kitchen and chatted for a bit. It was a nice way to end our stay at the curious New Orleans Hotel. What's Notable? We stayed in a 131-year-old, stone and brick hotel, in probably the most picturesque town in Arkansas. I'll remember the iron balconies and spiral fire escape. I'll remember how unusually quiet the town and hotel seemed. I'll remember the surprise of the delicious breakfast in the festive basement. I'll remember a comfy bed and a good night's sleep, in the center of our very odd Presidential Suite with gnomes and black accents... and peeling couch and the pleasant sunroom with swivel chairs and alley view. Oh my! It was an unusual stay for sure!
Lucky Lodge Stay Getting National Park Lodge reservations, is always a tricky thing. In the past we've booked a year in advance. But, last summer Don and I snagged a last-minute, cancelled room at Crater Lake Lodge. We were also lucky just getting to the lodge. Snow closed one of the roads and we drove through rain on the other. But, the clouds began to lift when we arrived! Double Lucky We were double lucky when we returned a week later with our daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter! This time we managed to get TWO last minute, lake-view rooms AND the sun was out! (Not all luck. I must admit, I spent an insane amount of time online and on my phone.) The Lake The manmade structure looked mighty impressive as we approached. But it was hard to compete with the natural beauty behind the lodge. Crater Lake is the deepest and bluest lake in the United States! The hotel is perched on the rim of a caldera, made by a massive volcanic eruption over 7,000 years ago! The scenery is even more stunning, when you know how it was created. Glad It's Here Don and I have stayed in about 10 National Park Lodges. This one has had a more troubling history than any of the others. Evidently Crater Lodge was a total mess, when it was rescued from demolition, in 1989. The lodge's initial opening in 1917, was more pitiful than grand. Construction wasn't even completed, when they opened their doors to guests. Serious construction flaws, along with money problems, meant the lodge never had its real heyday. It fumbled along for years. Arriving in 2023 Don and I arrived on a Friday in mid June. The stone and shingled exterior looked spotless. Our visit was nearly 30 years after the reopening In 1995. It took 6 years of rehabilitation and reconstruction. The roof no longer sagged like it did in 1989. Lobby The lobby felt welcoming with the stone fireplace, Stickley (reproduction) chairs and the original bark-covered columns. The floors were bright and clean, unlike 3 decades ago. During renovation, 22 different kinds of carpet were discovered. I'm trying to imagine all the smells during that removal. Ugh. The Great Hall All was peaceful in the Great Hall... in the early morning hours. When we arrived in the late afternoon, things were a little more hopping. When I looked up at the 13-foot beamed ceilings and classic light fixtures, I tried to imagine how the interior looked when the weary lodge closed down before renovation. I read that there were bug zappers hanging and florescent lights. With both visits, we were lucky to find seats near the grand fireplace. It helps to have a grand-toddler, who wakes very early! 1917 Over 100 years ago, the fireplace was also a favorite gathering area. Although the interior looks massive and sturdy in this old photo, the hotel structure was doomed from the beginning. The light wood-frame construction of the lodge, never held up to the elements. The stones of this fireplace were numbered for reconstruction, before they were taken apart. Charlie Explores It was nice that Don and I had our stay a week earlier. We knew what to expect when our energetic 2-year-old granddaughter was introduced. It's a little nerve-wracking having a toddler near an enormous fireplace opening. There was no fire screen. And the 2 squirrel andirons seemed to be luring her closer. Luckily the crackling heat warned all of us, if we stepped too close. Smokey Bear and More Squirrels I told Charlie we should go on a hunt for some other squirrels and a Smokey Bear or two. We found Smokey next to another fireplace, which wasn't lit. We found a couple lamps with carved squirrels! I now notice that Charlie and the squirrel are striking the same pose... only the squirrel is holding a nut, not a pacifier! Stairs! Unlike some historic lodges, we did have elevator options. But the stairs were curious and offered good exercise. One set of stairs looked like something out of an old hospital. Very sterile! The bark-covered stairs in the corner of the Great Hall were charming. As was the little game table with log-and-twig chairs. The stairs were actually quite a workout for some of us, not used to an elevation of over 7,000 feet. I'm sure the plexiglass-glass was added in the last renovation. I appreciated the addition, when I took Charlie on Climbing Missions. My mission was to tire Charlie out a bit, so she might sit a spell with us! She loved to explore and was not too interested in sitting in a chair for very long. And how could I resist, when for the 20th time Charlie asked, "Grandma, I wanna climb stairs please?" Sitting Options There were numerous little gathering areas in the Great Hall. The Mission style furniture fit the decor. Unlike some antique furniture, it happened to be comfortable. After our stair-climbing, Charlie was happily lured into a comfy chair, with a fruit bar. Our little group settled into a cozy area, while other families gathered nearby, with their kids and crayons and books. I didn't see anyone looking at a cellphone! Such a pleasant, homey atmosphere. Charlie didn't stay seated too long, but she was thoroughly entertained with scarves... and her Baby Yoda... And when Buster brought us some drinks from the bar, Charlie was quite delighted to have a new face in the mix. Our cheery bar server told Charlie that he had a sister, with the same name as Charlie. Buster came back to check on us and was happy to snap our photo... ...but he wasn't any more skilled than the rest of us, in convincing Charlie to remove her Paci. Rockers on the Veranda The Great Hall wasn't the only place with wonderful seating options. The Veranda had a nice line up of rocking chairs, overlooking the lake. On our first Friday visit, the rockers were all taken, until a large group headed in for dinner reservations. Then Don and I had a wonderful time rocking and taking in the view. A week later, no one was fighting over the Veranda chairs. The weather had warmed to 69 degrees and there was a mosquito invasion. What a shame... but it was sort of comical watching from inside, as unknowing guests discovered the attacking pests! Veranda at Sunrise The Lodge Veranda offered impressive views at both sunrise and sunset, if you were willing to put up with bugs or chilly temps. I got up around 5 am, to catch the sunrise on the first visit. I headed downstairs expecting to see no one, but there were a number of guests with cameras, in the wee morning hours. No one was sitting in a rocking chairs, when the sun began to peek out. There were no voices, either. Just the sound of serious cameras clicking. I stepped away with my cellphone camera. As soon as the sun hit the lodge, the photographers headed inside. I could have had my pick of the rockers. I did for a moment... but it was cold! Dining at the Lodge The Lodge Dining Room has changed very little in a century. Back in 1917, the tables were covered with linen, but that's about the only difference. There were only a few tables with good lake views. Don and I didn't ask for one, when we made reservations the first time. The restaurant was packed. Don and His Fish We sat in the middle of the room and focussed on our food. Don's expression looks skeptical, but he was actually very pleased with his steelhead filet. I was sorry they no longer used the Crater Lake Lodge China, which I saw on display. But I did enjoy my salad and creamy broccoli-cheese soup. Not my usual choice for a summer dinner, but we were in a lodge, with snow outside! Dining With the Fam On our Friday evening with the "kids" we ended up with a great table next to the window. It helped that we made reservations for 8:00. Most families were vacating tables. Sunset By about 9 pm, it was time to dash outside and take a quick photo. Snow, lake, pines, pink sunset and not a single bite! Food? I actually don't remember what we ate. Sometimes that happens when I'm in good company. I just remember that everyone was happy with their food and happy to be together. This was the first night on the road with our gang. Don and I were caravanning with Heidi, Jamie and Charlie, during their move to Texas. They were excited to experience Crater Lake, before moving away from the state. We were excited to get them back in Texas! Guest Rooms Making last minute reservations meant we took whatever we could get. On our first visit, Don and I stayed on the top floor, overlooking the lake. Higher rooms usually have better views. But my exterior photo shows the shed roof dormers... which meant the higher windows were more restricted. Room 319 We headed down the hall wondering what our room would look like. National Park Lodges aren't known for luxury. The hall looked a bit spiffier than many old lodges. No dark creepy lodge halls at Crater Lake. Cozy Room We really can't complain. The room was a decent size, with a comfy chair for Don's problem back. We had a queen bed instead of a double. There was a coffee maker and a bathtub. We've stayed in much tinier lodge quarters. I was eager to get over to the window and take in the view! The scenery was indeed spectacular, but the height of the third floor window was tricky. I felt like a kid, standing on my toes to look out. I opened the window and heard voices below, but couldn't see down. Finally I grabbed a chair and climbed up for a better view! 5:08 A.M. In the early morning, the window view was the most dramatic. A faint light woke me around 5 am. I grabbed my phone and took this photo at 5:08! Then I tossed clothes and a jacket over my pajamas and ran downstairs to welcome the morning! Room 215 Our room was on the second floor, for our next stay. We have a little person in this picture to show the difference. Charlie spent some time in Grandma and Pop Pop's room while her parents unloaded the car. Kids appreciate a good view as much as adults. No need for climbing chairs in Room 215! The king bed was a welcome change, also. We had a regular tub, which was fine. Some have claw-footed tubs. National Park Lodges don't do TVs. Who needs them, when you can stare out the window for your entertainment! Outside Time We didn't get any hikes in, on either visit. But we did some posing, with the lake... ... and with the snow! Jamie and Heidi got in a quick selfie before we checked out. Grandma managed a quick photo with Charlie, before we headed to the car! Good-Bye Crater Lake Both visits were way too quick, with not nearly enough lake time. I did absorb some facts though. Wizard Island is really a volcanic cinder cone! Crater Lake is 1,943 feet deep and holds 4.9 trillion gallons of water! The view across is 6 miles! I'll probably forget those fun facts, but I'll remember the notable stuff. What's Notable? We stayed in a lodge that was cleaner and fresher and sturdier than the day it opened in 1917. When we relaxed by the fireplace, it was hard to imagine the lodge in its decayed state, 30+ years ago. I'll remember the feel of the lodge when it was empty and quiet, as well as when it was full of activity. It was fun to see families gathering, and solo guests reading and couples playing cards. It felt like the visitors were behaving like guests from 100 years ago! So our memories will be a combination of cozy lodge & stunning lake. Both lake and lodge have amazing histories.
I'll remember that wonderful combo well. But honestly, I'll mostly remember that Don and I stayed twice... and enjoyed our time with family, twice as much! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
December 2023
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