Durango, Colorado When Don and I last stayed in Durango, we were just down the street at the iconic Strater Hotel. But we had our eye on this hotel, for the next time. Who Was General Palmer? The Victorian hotel on Main avenue, was once called The Palace Hotel. It was later named for the Civil War general, who established the hotel in 1898. The corner hotel didn't look too palatial on the front, but it was interesting to realize, the hotel wasn't just named for a general, but built by one. The Rear Walking from the parking lot, we had a good view of the hotel's many terraces. It's not often that I feel more welcomed by the back of a hotel. It's also not often that we are offered free parking, with a downtown hotel. Yea for that! Sideview I was actually very intrigued by all the terrace space, for this 39 room hotel. I didn't have any luck coming up with old hotel photos to find out how much of this was original. Back Entrance The rear entrance was attractive with lots of wood and stained glass... and lots of steps. Why do we always lug so much stuff? Young Staff I was hoping there would be some elderly guy checking us in, who just happened to be a history buff. The young staff didn't have many answers for my questions, but they were cheery. Lots of Coffee Between the door and front desk, I took notice of a grand piece of furniture that held many options for coffee and tea, as well as a tray of fresh cookies. That set up came in handy later! Sitting Areas It began to rain after we checked in, so I was eager to check out the cozy lounging areas. There wasn't much of a "lobby" feel, but there were numerous sitting spots. Victorian Furniture I like the idea of Victorian history, but Victorian furniture isn't actually the most comfortable. Keeping an Eye Out Front This little area facing Main Avenue had good windows for watching the rain. But it was dim and the low couches made me feel weary. Sunroom/Parlor Along the back of the hotel was a long parlor with windows. This actually looked more comfortable, but a grumpy-looking couple had kind of taken over the comfiest chairs. They glanced up with a "Don't you dare." expression. I waited till much later for this photo! A Wet Terrace I took a quick peek at the largest terrace. At this point the rain was really blowing, so we headed for our room. Oldest Elevator! I was actually very excited about riding in the oldest operating elevator in the state. Elevator Adventure We opened the thick wood and brass door first, then fumbled with the heavy metal gate. Trying to keep the gate pulled open as we rolled suitcases over the bumpy threshold, was sort of hilarious. A staff member saw us and pointed to a hook, which kept the gate open. Once inside, we closed the brass door, then unhooked the gate, pressed number 2 and grinned at each other. Scary Ride It seemed to take a moment, then there were some sounds and rumbling and I actually gulped at the thought of getting stuck. After some movement, the thing halted. Nothing happened. Finally we reminded ourselves that we were in the oldest elevator in Colorado and we manually opened the gate and did all our tasks in reverse. Yikes. Yea for Stairs! I quickly found a door with stairs and ran down to get one more thing from the car. I paused at the desk and laughed. "Do guests ever get stuck in the elevator because they just don't realize they have to open it themselves?" The young man laughed about how many confused guests freak out and just wait to be rescued. "Hmm." I thought. "Do you think you might want to give your guests some elevator tips, sometime?" Cozy Room Our room wasn't large, but it had all we needed. I was sad that our only window was blocked by the bed, but I was able to crawl up and peek at the view. Chocolates and a View When I lifted the fringed shade I could see a nice mural of Durango, on the building across the street. Behind, I could see The Strater Hotel, where we'd stayed before. There were a couple of treats from the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, resting on the bed. On the vanity, I found a small bar of blood orange soap, made for the hotel. Very flavorful surprises. TV, Desk and a Funny Red Chair I'm pretty sure that red chair was not Victorian...but neither was the TV. The modern chair sort of amused me, though. It was a lot more comfortable than the desk chair. Vanity, Mirror and Tub I appreciate it when historic hotels renovate without modernizing. I prefer the look of a pedestal sink and chain pull toilet. But secretly I was okay with the vanity and giant mirror and the working tub. Sometimes I'm okay with cheating, especially if I'm a little tired. Caffeine Time So while the rain did its thing outside, we enjoyed a coffee and cookie break. We even had a china, cup & saucer option. Nice. Evening Our hotel didn't have a bar or restaurant, but it was within walking distance to The Strater's options as well as numerous others. We had a drink at the Strater's saloon, then wandered back towards our hotel Pie Time! The street was blocked off in front of our hotel and a pie auction was in full swing! We heard one pie go for over $700.00! The charity event continued, while we headed back to our hotel. Relaxing on the Porch Since the rain had dried up, we decided to make use of the hotel's porches. We grabbed food and wine from the car and glasses from our room. We were the only guests who seemed inclined to sit outdoors. Cheers to Durango! Cheers to porches! What's Notable? If Don and I weren't so fond of porches and silly things like scary elevators, our memories of our hotel stay might fade more quickly. We had no curious people encounters, there was no restaurant/bar to liven things and our room was not as "elegant" as we expected. Our memories will be about the great location and the silly elevator. I'm glad we stayed, but doubt we'll pick it again.
0 Comments
A Good Name You can't go wrong with a hotel that has "palace" in the name! But there's always a risk that a hotel built in 1909, might not be so palace-like in 2017 Back in the Day This vintage photo shows the Palace Hotel when it was young. Today When we pulled up to the hotel last June, the hotel looked just as charming as it did over 100 years ago. Not too much has changed. The Entrance The Palace no longer includes the corner cafe, so the hotel is actually fairly narrow. I loved having 2 doors. The door on the left took us into the lobby. The door on the right took us directly to the staircase. Cute Lobby The small lobby was bright and welcoming, with Victorian furniture and colorful gallery art. I Love Stairs We headed up the stairs to our second floor room. The stairway was wide and well lit, which is nice when you're lugging lots of junk. Beautiful Wood I was sort of glad we didn't have to climb higher, but the woodwork was lovely... so I wouldn't have complained. Curves and Accents When we reached the second floor I was impressed with the curious, curved wall and trio of decor that greeted us. I had to pause and enjoy the wall sconce, gold radiator, odd little chair and lacy table display. Nice! Room 204 We opened the door to a nice surprise! We hadn't realized our "room" was really a suite with sitting room, kitchen, bed area and bath. We made use of the comfy, swivel chairs and the tiny dining area. Cute and Retro The little kitchen was pretty adorable. I loved the glass shelves in the window and the soft, silver tones in the cabinets and pressed tin. Bed and Bath The bathroom had great vintage style features, but all was spotless and new. The rounded corner shower was pretty nifty. The bath products smelled nice. The linens and pillows were luxurious. We each had a nice bedside table and lamp, so there was no fighting. We've learned not to expect that with historic hotels. Art Some would not appreciate this very odd print that we found in the sitting area. But I was pretty delighted and spent quite a while staring at it. At least it wasn't above the bed, or I might have had bad dreams. Five Windows Don and I usually go for the cheapest rooms, so we're always extra excited when we have a corner room. We had 5 windows in our cute little space. I loved peeking out at the old buildings and mountains, beyond. Snack Time We were traveling with a bottle of champagne, so we decided to set up a little toasting area, next to the golden radiator. It's possible that you might want a radiator in June, when you're in Colorado. But the weather was hot and we enjoyed the working air-conditioner. The night before, we'd slept with fans and open windows in another Colorado hotel. Walking in Salida The location of The Palace was ideal. We were just steps away from the Arkansas River, where we watched kayaks coming through the rapids. We ended up eating dinner at The Boat House Restaurant, with its green awning and umbrellas and river view. Neon at Night I love a little neon. It always seems extra whimsical in a small town. Of course there was a little noise at the Victorian Bar across the street. That made things seem more citified... but the hum of the a.c. helped with that. Morning In the morning, a little platter of goodies was waiting outside our door. We made our own coffee in the room and enjoyed it with muffins and parfait, with fruit, granola and yogurt. Walking off Breakfast We took a walk after breakfast and found the river much quieter. Lots of locals were out walking dogs and a mama and baby deer wandered down one street. What's Notable? I was surprised at how clean and lovely this old hotel felt. If Salida had been a big city or a more upscale tourist town, I might have expected more. I really thought we would be staying in a quaint hotel, with creaky floor boards and quirky decor. But it was much better. So did the Palace Hotel live up to its name? I'm not sure it felt like a real palace, but all the little surprises made me feel pampered like a picky princess. So I guess I'll say it passed the test. I would definitely stay again.
Glenwood Springs, Colorado Last June, Don and I were looking forward to taking a look at the hotel that had been described as "a mountain resort for the 19th century elite." Only we could barely lay our eyes on it. Obstructed View As our car approached the hotel's address, I couldn't even see the enchanting structure, modeled after the Italian, 17th century Villa de Medici castle. The trees were lovely, but I was frustrated. From 1893 This old image shows the massive u-shaped hotel sitting between the mountains and the mineral hot springs pool. What a luxury to be a guest and stroll down the lawn to the pool and bathhouse. Where's the Pool Now? Today the pool and bathhouse sit across a street, congested with construction. The hotel no longer is affiliated with the pool and spa. The impressive, sandstone bathhouse was intriguing, but the hot springs didn't tempt us. It was nearly 100 degrees when we arrived and it would have cost us about $50. for a quick, hot dip. Checking In We searched for parking and found a lot a block away. The hotel seemed to have lost its grand front entrance with all the tree & garden growth, but we found a side door. We stepped through the doors and felt a sudden wave of stuffy air. After passing the gift shop, with about a million stuffed teddy bears, we stopped at the lobby desk, where I spotted a real stuffed bear above an old vault. There's a story about how the history of "teddy bears" began at this hotel, when Roosevelt was once a guest. Critters While Don got our key, I peeked at the old cash registers and a stuffed buffalo on the wall. I liked the curious collection of antiques, but the enormous lobby felt odd. Endless Lobby I captured no lounging guests when I took this photo at 9 pm, but in the afternoon, there were quite a few guests slumped in the formal chairs here and there. Some looked like they'd come from a day at the hot springs and others just looked like tired and grumpy travelers. The heat had obviously zapped everyone's energy. Even the woman at the desk talked about the heat. Before we headed upstairs, she gave us some advice. "Just so you know, we don't have air-conditioning. My advice is, go to your room and open your windows and turn on the fans. Then go to our patio and order a drink." Just Plain Odd We headed up the stairs chuckling about that strange bit of advice. The warm air seemed extra still on the landing. I paused to have a look at the cheesy Botticelli reproduction. Surely that piece of "art" had not been decorating the hotel for 124 years. Third Floor The main hall was so wide, that we easily walked by 3 housekeeping carts that were lined up. We turned down our side hall and headed towards an open window, with fluttering drapes. The pink woodwork was comically dated. I noticed one door with an open transom and heard voices. There was no room number on the door, so I wondered if that was the third floor's haunted room that I'd heard about. They no longer offer the questionable room to guests, so maybe those were indeed ghostly voices. Our Corner Suite 342 For some reason, we were bumped up to a suite, so maybe I should have felt more grateful. But we stepped into the sitting room and just laughed. The heavy air was stifling and the decor was amusing. The Victorian seating fit the era, but the 1970's updates were awkward. Wet Bar? We were happy to at least have a microwave and fridge. But the corner "wet-bar", along with the tiny flatscreen TV, just seemed so out of place. We turned on the 2 ceiling fans, which rattled and whirred. Then we opened windows, which let in blasts of heat along with the sounds of traffic and construction. Corner Rooms At least our corner room allowed for better ventilation and views. If we looked straight forward (and not down towards traffic) we got a nice view of the mountains. Bedroom I sound like a snob when I chuckle about our suite. It really looks fine in this photo. But the carpet was worn. The bathroom door hit the toilet when it opened and the exposed pipes and popcorn ceiling seemed more tired-dusty, than quaint-vintage. Ahhh! Outside Don and I felt much better about facing the warm evening after quick showers. We headed down to the patio and yard in search of the coolest spot. There were a few vacant wooden chairs on the lawn. We enjoyed sitting and studying different parts of the brick and sandstone building. I loved the towers with their flags. Patio and Fountain There was a patio with umbrellas and a few early diners. The sound of the nearby fountain made things seem a little cooler. Coppertop Bar The veranda had a decent looking bar with whirling fans and a nice view of the garden patio. But the bartender seemed as worn and grumpy as the travelers we'd seen inside. We didn't stay long. Moving to the Lawn A couple of log rockers opened up and we took our drinks to the grass. I got giddy when a few trees brightened up with lights and I got even more excited when an Amish couple I'd noticed earlier, strolled by and stopped to chat. It absolutely made my evening, listening to the happy couple talk about their exciting journey on the train from Indiana. They stood, in traditional Amish dress and just smiled about the heat. "We don't have air-conditioning." They laughed. Better at Night After the sun went down, the hotel looked much better. The temps dropped and the fire pits came on. Dinner was served on the patio, but we ended up lounging in our funny suite and eating some of out travel food. Morning By morning, the temps were in the fifties, although the room still hadn't cooled. It actually looked beautiful outside and I was sort of sorry we weren't staying longer to give the hotel a chance to impress us. Fan and Fire From the courtyard, I looked up at the windows and chuckled at the fans I saw in windows. It looked like an old apartment house. Then I stepped back into the lobby and noticed a morning fire in one of the grand fireplaces. What a contrast! What's Notable? There was a ghostly feel to this gigantic, past-its-prime hotel. It was as if every employee and every guest was in some kind of fog. The only people we connected with at all, were the Amish folks and they weren't overnight guests. It made me sad that I couldn't have been more impressed. I so adore an old hotel and I don't need fancy renovations to make me feel at home. But the grand size of the hotel and perhaps the overly flattering website, made me feel disappointed.
As we rolled our bags to the parking lot, I turned back and saw the back of the building with no obstruction. There it is! I could finally see the hotel. Rescued Hotel in Fort Collins I love a good story of a hotel that has come back to life. The Armstrong is one of those hotels. It could have easily been torn down a couple decades ago. All we knew when we booked our room, was that The Armstrong was the only historic hotel in the Old Town area of Fort Collins. I told my friend, Lorrie that we were staying in her old college town for a night. She was surprised to hear where we were staying, since she remembered the hotel being old and shabby. It had actually been much worse than shabby, for a number of decades. Since 1923 This is how the building looked in 1936, without a wall of tree growth. There was no outdoor cafe, but the corner of the building did hold a coffee shop, just as it does today. The hotel was built by Charles and Carolyn Mantz on the property owned by Carolyn's father, Andrew Armstrong. They named the hotel after him. The Hotel Today When we arrived on a beautiful Saturday, things were bustling in the Old Town area. The hotel showed no signs that it had been a flophouse in the 1990's. The peaceful crowd sipping coffee outside, didn't reflect the rowdy characters that became associated with the place in the '70's or '80's, when the Old Town area had begun to suffer. Welcome! The cozy lobby greeted us with festive, purple walls and a few leather chairs. Luckily we had no use for the collection of available umbrellas. Checking in with Oreo Don and I always adore the extra bonus of a hotel pet, when we're on the road. 12-year-old, Oreo seemed aware of that and put up with our cooing and petting. After a while, she skillfully distracted us with the complimentary Pixie Stix, on the counter. Quite the Stairway After entering the somewhat modest lobby, the stairway in back seemed mighty grand. Again, the purple walls made everything more festive. The iron railing was a nice touch and the wall nook, holding a floral display was even better. The vase of fresh, fragrant flowers helped inspire us to skip the elevator most of the time. The floral scent really did fill the stairwell. "Margarita" Time Before climbing the stairs, we peeked at the intimate lounge area with chessboard and books. The glow on the table, was an iced margarita machine. They were of the non-alcoholic variety, but it was a fun change from the usual pitcher of water. Our Room on College Avenue I loved the big window in our bright and simple room, facing College Avenue. Standing beside the freshly painted radiator and peeking out through the trees made me feel like I was a kid back in Grinnell, Iowa. Seeing the awning above the window, reminded me of my grandmother's house in Springfield, Missouri. Mostly I liked the college town feel as I looked out at the activity... busy, even in summer. Vintage or Modern When the Levinger Family purchased the hotel in 2002, they made some good decisions. They chose to renovate the 40+ rooms in vintage and modern styles. Don and I always prefer hotel renovations that capture the era from when the building first opened. But some people prefer modern, new accommodations. What a treat, to have a choice. Vintage, but Fresh We of course chose a vintage room. But, I was happy not having to deal with vintage plumbing and claw-footed tubs. They did a good job making the bathroom look old, without feeling old. Mystery Door In the evening we headed down the stairs, ready to wander Old Town, in search of dinner options. We didn't make it far. I noticed a doorway to the basement with a small sign, indicating there was a lounge. Ace Gillet's Lounge We wandered the spacious basement area, following the sound of laughter and music. When we found the entrance, it felt like we were entering a speakeasy, for those who were in the know. We found 2 open stools at the bar and hoped no one asked us for a password. Bar Ballet The lounge was once again, the perfect retro/modern mix. It felt like we were stepping back in time to have a few drinks with Dean Martin, minus the cigarette smoke. However, our bartender was not a bit out of the '50's or '60's. Ray was utterly amazing the way he whipped from one end of the bar to the next, mixing, visiting, tidying, pouring. In fact the entire staff seemed choreographed in their efficient moves. On top of that, the whole team seemed pleasant and happy to be there. That's different! Cheers! I ordered the Pinker Pussycat, without laughing. It was made with pineapple rum and coconut sake. Don thought we were in New Orleans and ordered a Sazerac. It was about twice the size of the Nola version. We sipped and took in the atmosphere. Jazz Trio The live jazz trio made it hard for us to think about getting up and searching for a restaurant. We decided to stay put and Don and I both ended up making requests. My choice, "The Girl From Ipanema" fit the 1960's vibe. Food Since I was not blessed with the ability to drink all night, (thank goodness) we needed food if we were going to enjoy more music. We kept our bar seats and enjoyed a huge hummus plate and an order of crawfish beignets. Good Night! We both felt a little sad that we'd not taken advantage of our hotel's perfect location. We missed out on exploring Old Town, but enjoyed the fact we only had to climb a few stairs to bed. We both slept well, despite the nearby train sounds. We woke on Sunday morning and grabbed coffee in the corner shop, before leaving town.
What's Notable? I always appreciate a hotel with shady past. I'm so glad the Levingers rescued this hotel and respected the history. I'm glad they didn't modernize every nook and cranny. The cozy guest room, lobby and sitting areas, were pleasant but not as memorable as the basement lounge. Gillet's Lounge and Oreo the cat, may be what I remember most! Reasons to Stay There are lots of reasons to stay at the Brown Palace, in Denver. These are my reasons: The Age! (125 years) The Odd Name The Crazy Shape The Rich History The Great Location The Old World Glamor The Modern Luxury Why Not Stay? There are a few reasons some might not stay at The Brown. Our main reason for never booking a room? We couldn't afford it. The rates were out of our range, when we made our plans for a summer Colorado trip, this year. But on June 15, we stopped in for a drink at the classy, Churchill Bar. The Book Paves the Way We didn't spend the night, but we had drinks and ended up meeting the talented Chef Kasper, from the hotel's Palace Arms dining room. My Dining Blog link below, tells how my silly cookbook helped introduce us. It also explains how Kasper's generosity and enthusiasm lured us back, to spend a night at The Brown! http://www.thebethlists.com/diverse-dining-list/dining-surprises-at-brown-palace-hotel A Week Later A week after our evening at the bar, Don and I altered travel plans and headed back to Denver. This time we actually had reservations for a night at The Brown. Chef Kasper was able to get us a rate we could afford. My Denver friend Martha, even offered to drop us off to avoid the $37.00 valet parking fee. Once Inside Even though we had seen the grand hotel a week earlier, I walked through the revolving doors like a giddy child. Before checking in, I paused to sample water from the ritzy water fountain. The hotel was actually built on an artesian well, so there's a reason for the fancy fountain. Going Up I love historic hotels, when they make me feel like I'm stepping into one of my favorite classic movies. The escalator and retro elevator did the trick. If only I'd been wearing a hat and carrying a train case. Then I would have paused for sure, to make a call on that classic, house phone, near the escalator. Ship Tavern We didn't have a meal or a drink in the Ship Tavern, but I took a good peek. From the street, I could see the lovely stained glass and model ships in the windows. I studied the impressive way the tavern fit into the "rounded point" of the flatiron building. I learned that there's a reason for the hotel's shape. It's because it was built on a pie-shaped plot of land. Now, I don't know why there happened to be a pie-shaped plot of land. Red & Blue If only we'd had more time! I would have loved to have had a drink, sitting on one of those nautical stools! What a fun mix of old world wood and patriotic colors. The Atrium I took this photo of the Atrium, a week earlier, not knowing we'd be returning. The gold and marble was just as impressive on the second visit. Looking Up It was much busier on Friday afternoon at check in. It was fun to watch the first time visitors arriving and smiling upward at the skylight. The colorful glass was glowing above 8 stories, but I heard there are actually 9 stories. Evidently there is something up there, besides sky. Climbing After we checked in, I took a hike as far up as I could go. It was a good way to burn a few calories before our dinner reservations! I should have taken a close-up photo, to show the decorative iron panels on the stair and balcony railings. There are 700 panels! Arches on the Second Story There's probably a name for the second story with all the fancy arches. If I'd had a lot more time, I could have studied all the intricate designs on the panels. I heard there are a couple that are upside down. You'd have to be pretty observant to notice that. Tea Time From the highest floor I had a good time observing the afternoon tea that was still going strong. I was too high up to eavesdrop on the conversations. But it was fun watching and listening to the voices and the clinking tea cups and piano music, swirling around the open space. Our Room I was excited to find our room on the 6th floor. Kasper had made it clear he could reserve any kind of room, all the way up to the Presidential Suite. We weren't sure what kind of rates he would be able to get us, so we assured him we would be delighted with a basic room. Room 626 Our room was spacious and lovely. I really have no idea where this ranks in their line up of accommodations, but we couldn't have been more pleased. Don and I spent a lot of time shaking our heads and grinning at our good fortune. We were getting the Brown Palace experience, for about the same price as 2 nights of valet parking! The Windowsill The classy remodeling made it a little tricky to remember we were, in an old hotel. But a glance at the triangular-shaped wooden windowsill, made it clear we were inside the iconic flat iron building. I love that! Downtime Unfortunately, we didn't have a whole lot of lounging time. If we'd had more time, we could have made use of the cozy robes and comfy sitting spots. We could have taken our time freshening up in that wonderful shower. Surprise! Don was getting dressed when we heard a knock on the door. He dashed into our very large closet while I answered. What a decadent treat! This was yet another gracious gesture, on the part of Kasper! Luckily our dinner reservations were on the late side and our Denver friends weren't arriving for a little while. Enjoying with Friends By 6:30, the Atrium atmosphere had gone from Tea Time to Jazz & Martini Time. My college buddy Martha and her hubby, taxied over to join us for drinks and music. Double the Fun It was so much fun having Martha and Bill to share our giddiness. They live in Denver and have experienced some fun at The Brown before. In fact the piano player, recognized Martha from last December, when he picked up on her theatrical flare and managed to get a "White Christmas" performance out of her. It was the wrong time of year for that, but we did some dancing. Dinner Time By 7:45, our friends had headed home and it was time for our reservations at the elegant Palace Arms. There were other diners when we arrived, but by the time we finished our 6 courses of food, the place was dramatically quiet. From Salt Block to a Bag of Jams The Dining Blog shares more about our extraordinary meal, prepared by Chef Kasper. The first photo shows how our meal we began. Crisp vegetables, served on a cold salt block... ...and a gift bag full of jams and breads made by Kasper himself. What an amazing evening. What's Notable? I started this write up with a list of all the things that made me want to experience The Brown. The name, history, glam, age, shape and location did indeed make the stay fun. But the real memory will always be about the people who helped us enjoy it! Kasper made our stay possible! Then he made it unforgettable, with his feast and sharing! Martha and Bill arrived to cheer us on and they will be who we turn to in later years to ask, "Did that really happen?"
The Brown Palace is a dreamlike hotel, all on its own. The people, will be what made this historic hotel experience notable! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
December 2023
Categories
All
|