Mario's Italian Supper Club in Detroit

​Detroit Supper Club in 2024

This is it! This is the 75-year-old supper club where Don and I shared a memorable meal. ​

It was Don's first visit, but he'd heard me (often) reminiscing about dining at Mario's when I was a teen.

Long before our trip to Lake Michigan last summer, I got curious about Mario's. I Googled to see if the iconic supper club was still in business, 50 years after I visited? Yes! Still serving guests since its opening, in 1948! I made reservations and we added a 1-night detour to Detroit.

Cheers in 2024!

Don and I had a memorable evening at Mario's. 

I'll share more about our meal later, but first the focus will be on my memories of Mario's from a half century before. Scroll way down to avoid my indulgent tangent down memory lane. This is an insanely long post.

​Stories From 1974

I fell in love with Detroit's popular Midtown restaurant, when I dined with my mom in 1974. I was 17 and Mom was a whole lot younger than I am now. Owner Mario Lelli was probably there greeting guests that evening. I don't recall. But he'd been running his supper club for 26 years at that point.

I have another 1974 memory, that involves Mario's. Both recollections are pretty silly and the restaurant actually plays only a small part in them. But I dug out my  50-year-old diary and these are the details. 

#1 Dinner After the Opera in 1974
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On May 4, 1974, I dined at Mario's with my mom, after attending an opera. I wasn't a big opera fan like mom, but she talked it up big. "This is The Metropolitan! They're on a special tour from New York!" Mom had purchased tickets for not one opera, but two. Dad had a conflict, (Really?) so Mom persuaded me with her enthusiasm and a promise of dining at Mario's between shows.

​We drove from Ann Arbor to Detroit's gorgeous Masonic Temple Auditorium. Even the matinee performance was a grand event, with VIPS arriving in limousines. I recall watching women in stoles and pearls, strutting up the red carpet. I have no memory of what I wore. But my diary described a young woman in a pink and yellow hoop skirt. The Scarlet O'Hara look-alike was a member of the audience, not the cast. Odd.

For 3.5 hours I tried my best to appreciate Madam Butterfly the way Mom did. I didn't worry about understanding the Italian lyrics, but I did worry about nodding off. Luckily there was a surprise that pulled me out of my sleepy state. At one point, a voice suddenly called out from high above the stage. "Peace Baby! Peace!" An usher's flashlight aimed towards a naked man standing in an alcove near the balcony. (green arrow) These were the days of streaking, so the shock was minimal. The serious Opera Buffs in the audience were not a bit amused. Attention returned to the stage and the man disappeared with little fanfare.

Magical Mario's Dinner

​The opera ended and the packed house exited the beautiful building. Many rushed, as if on our same schedule. Cars and shuttles headed to Mario's, for a multi-course dinner. Most like us would be returning for an evening opera performance. Mario's was known for catering to the theatre crowd. 

The people-watching was as entertaining at Mario's, as the Opera. The entire restaurant was full of operagoers, dressed to the nines. (Except for one large party, that seemed to be celebrating a little girl's first communion) The waiters in their jackets and bowties moved through the space like choreographed dancers, carrying trays of antipasto, minestrone, bread, wine, pastas... desserts. I was in heaven enjoying every course. I was famished and this drawn-out meal felt like a proper reward for sitting through the opera.

Suddenly the restaurant emptied as quickly as the auditorium had and we were back at the Masonic Auditorium, for 3.5 more hours of opera. This time we watched Joan Sutherland, in Tales of Hoffman and the language was French. There was no streaker to amuse me. I had no food reward after this opera, but I remember the 30-minute drive home with Mom. She was on a post opera high and had also been amused by the curious people details, on and off the stage. We swapped stories about all we'd experienced in our 7 hours of opera and also our 7 course dinner. I have other fond memories of little adventures with Mom. but this one ranks high. Our dinner felt so special. Even in 1974, it felt like we'd stepped back in time, to a fabulous supper club that my mom might have enjoyed in her youth! 

#2 Train Trip to Mario's, With Ginnie

About a half year later, my friend Ginnie came to visit from Florida. I wanted to show her the big city of Detroit, so I thought of Mario's. I had no car to drive to the Motor City, but Amtrak was an easy option back in those days.

I have no pictures of us on that day, but this '73 photo-booth snapshot gives a hint about the glam high school gals who headed off on a dining adventure that day. I'm teasing of course. But this photo shows just how young and innocent we must have looked, as we boarded the train. From a university town, to 1970s Motown City.

Michigan Depot

This internet photo looks pretty close to how I remember the station looking, on the day we arrived. We were already a little jolted by the city views from our train windows. My diary describes factories and junkyards, demolished structures. This was a period when Detroit was dealing with population decline and economic shifts, including the "white flight" to suburbs. Just as well that we didn't know Detroit's special claim to fame at the time. "Murder Capital of the World". 

(photo credit to Keith Jolly 1973) 

I was surprised to step into the dimly lit station interior. The depot was empty and echo-y and eerie. The only others in the hollow space, were cab drivers, who didn't look all that friendly. We asked one if he knew of Mario's and he seemed annoyed with the question. As we followed his quick steps to the cab, I asked if it was very far. "It's close, Lady!" He snapped back.

As soon as we stepped into the backseat the driver tore off, swerving    between cars and screeching to halts at the stoplights. (details from the old diary!) There was a bullet proof shield between us and the driver, but Ginnie and I were too terrified to speak behind his back. We'd already seen some bad parts of Detroit from the train window and suddenly the views from the cab were getting even more desolate. I hadn't recalled that Mario's was in a sketchy part of town. Could he be taking us somewhere else?  Then, suddenly the driver yanked the cab to the curb, and I recognized the sweet tudor-style restaurant in broad daylight. Mario's looked like a little Italian oasis, in rundown part of Detroit.  

We fumbled our payment before escaping the taxi, then discovered a locked door, just as the driver sped off. Mario's was closed. Dark on Mondays, just like the nearby theatres. I shoulda known.

​Two Stranded Maidens

Again, I have no photos of that day. However, this blurry Polaroid, (taken when Ginnie and I were dressed for a different adventure) helps to imagine just how ridiculously innocent and vulnerable we must have looked as we stood on that street... figuring out Plan B.

Second Avenue didn't look promising in either direction. Deserted buildings, empty sidewalks, trash. We began to walk, feeling awkwardly out of place in our prim dresses. We switched directions to avoid 3 bums lurking, waiting and staring. No cabs to flag down, just a car cruising by now and then. One passed slowly and a man grinned out the open window and kissed the air. Another car holding at least 4 men followed nearby. We heard a couple whistles and a voice hollering, "How much?" We cringed.  

Eventually we found our way to a service station. Who knows what the mechanics thought when we suddenly appeared off the street and asked for a phone book. They seemed only slightly less scary than the men on the street. I could feel their eyes watching as we thumbed through the restaurant section of the Yellow Pages, hoping to be inspired by a promising ad. "The Money Tree!" I pointed, "That sounds classy!"  

We called for a cab on the payphone. The driver that arrived was just as  cranky as the first. Instead of calling me Lady, this one snapped back with another title I'd never been called. "Madam! If I knew where this place was I wouldn't be asking!" Communication was frustrating, but at least we had the address. Before long the taxi had driven into a decent area, with the tall buildings, banks, restaurants and people dressed in business clothes. We were in Detroit's Financial District and what a relief. The Money Tree turned out to be a delightful choice. Modern and airy. We dined in the bar... for some reason and I think I remember quiche!

​Back to the Train

Ginnie and I were relaxed, by our third taxi of the day. We sat in the back, amusing ourselves on the drive back to the station. ​

For 20 minutes the backseat became our stage. We talked in character, playing 2 girls who'd come from a stressful audition of some kind. I'm sure the cab driver wasn't bit amused, watching our comical soap opera in his rearview mirror. Arguments and tears one minute. Harmonizing show tunes the next. Eventually the ride ended. We gave a slightly better tip and laughed our way into the depot. The space no longer felt intimidating. We explored the dark and spacious Ladies Room. The marble stalls and make up tables hinted at past elegance. We made our way to the raised shoeshine chairs and waited patiently to have shoes spiffed up, but no one came. The train ride back to Ann Arbor gave us time to laugh and recall all the odd moments of our day. It reminded me of driving back from Mario's with Mom, months before.

Third Stop at Mario's (2024)

There were no trains or operas before Don and I dined on a Sunday evening in 2024. Our Uber driver from the hotel was young and friendly. He didn't call me Lady or Madam. He chuckled when I told him a brief version of my stories.

As we headed down Second Avenue, I recalled the taxi ride from years before. The street still seemed oddly wide and quiet, but there were no boarded up buildings. No trash or creepy people. The 75-year-old restaurant looked as quaint and corny as I remembered. Brick and stone below, Tudor-style and neon above.

Neighborhood History

Looking the other direction I tried to recall how Second Avenue looked in 1974. I don't remember any pretty buildings like The Charles building that sits next to Mario's.

The 3-story building looked pretty enough to snap a photo. It was built in 1908, when Detroit was booming. It seems to be one of the few lovely buildings left from when Second Avenue was a grand, tree-lined street with Victorian homes. 

Most of the grand homes were torn down. Apartments went up and crime moved in. In this old (internet) photo, it looks like some folks were waiting at a bus stop in front of Mario's... more sitting outside of The Charles. There were no people out the day Ginnie and I were dropped off.

Dinner at 7:00

Second Avenue was calm on a Sunday evening. There were no crowds arriving when we headed for the door. The valet parking guy looked a little disappointed that we had no car to park.

We greeted and headed under the intriguing flower arch, towards the entrance.

I reached for the door handle with no worries about a locked door this time.

We had reservations and the neon sign was lit and welcoming.
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Celebs of the Past

We stepped inside and took in some of the wall displays. Photos, show posters and framed articles put a spotlight on the restaurant's connection with theatre.

Paul Newman, Andy Williams, Jerry Lewis, Frank Sinatra and Robin Williams were all fans of Mario's, back in the day. Over the years, Mario's has handled large groups of theatergoers. They've also hosted lots of entertainers. There have been cast parties for Broadway shows that come through Detroit. The restaurant even packed up food for the Rolling Stones once. They ate on the plane after a show. 

On the evening we arrived, there were no shuttles or limos delivering crowds from the theatre. 

Mario Lelli was obviously not there either. He sold the restaurant in 1980 to the ​Passalacqua family.

Vince Passalacqua runs the restaurant today. He spent many years learning the ropes under his parents' guidance. He took over operations in 1994.​

We spotted possibly youngest member of the Passalacqua family in this fine photo.

Quiet Lounge

After being welcomed by the host, we passed through a dimly lit lounge. Cozy cocktail tables were empty. Just one man sat alone at the bar, sipping a beer.

TVs above the bar reminded me that it was no longer 1974... or 1948.

This vintage postcard image shows no TVs, but there are ashtrays! 

​Dining Room
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Don and I were guided to a corner table in the spacious dining room, where we had a great view of the room and diners. Twinkle lights, tablecloths, gold frames on paneled walls. Corny in the best of ways.

Except for a large birthday celebration seated around a few tables, most of the tables were vacant. A bit sad, since I remembered the lively vibe of diners and staff in '74. 

But once our server arrived, I was glad to be dining on a quieter and less rushed evening. 

Our server (with a pink bowtie) was professional and gracious. His formal approach matched the nicely made table. He warmed up quickly, telling us how to remember his name. "Gino. Just remember, Gino brings the vino." We laughed, but also appreciated that tip!

Then and Now

Gino handed us menus with some written words of wisdom... probably passed down from 1948.

"Eat thy bread with joy... Drink thy wine with a merry heart" 

The prices from 1948 were not passed down. In 1948 a whole dinner with antipasto, salad, soup, spaghetti and entree could be enjoyed for $2.50!

Our entrees in 2024 ($48. & $55.) also came with many courses. Pretty reasonable, considering the service and extras! 

Starting with Antipasto 

Today's prices weren't actually too bad, considering the amount of food we were served.

We began with a platter of antipasto treats and a basket of bread.

Then came a plate of meats and then a house salad, with Mario's special cream Italian/Caesar dressing.

Then soup! I adore Minestrone, but usually I'm disappointed. None have the flavor I remember from Italy in 1969. Mario's came close! I have no idea what combo of flavors I tasted. But the thick soup tasted like Italy to me!

By the time our pasta dish arrived, we'd gotten to know quite a bit about Gino. He'd been an opera singer for 25 years, in Italy and other European countries. Originally from (hope I got this right) Albania, he ended up in The States and worked in Vegas for some time. Gino began working at Mario's 8 years ago. He seemed appreciative of steady work that could help his daughter with nursing school.  

Entrees

By the time our entrees arrived, a few more tables had filled. The birthday crowd had a flaming dessert and a young romantic couple nearby looked like they were about to have a proposal.

Don's sizzling Filet Mignon came with beans, potato and best of all Mario's Zip Sauce! Mario Lelli's butter-based steak sauce creation can be found at other restaurants in Detroit.

I ordered Veal Mario, which was a scallopini of veal with green onions, sauteed mushrooms and Mario sauce. 

I knew I was in trouble when that huge plate was set before me. Why did I fill up on all the extras? But I made a good effort with my heavenly feast. Tender veal and rich sauce! Decadent!

Chatting with Gino

Once again, I felt grateful that we'd dined on a quiet evening, where we didn't feel rushed. I was able to tell Gino about my memory of dining a half century before.

We were able to ask about recent years at Mario's. What had it been like with the pandemic? Gino was honest about the stress of reopening and serving guests while wearing a mask. He added that his accent plus a mask, made communication difficult.

Opera in 2024
  
Before heading out, we got a sweet surprise, when Gino asked if he could sing a little something for us. Standing near our corner table, Gino began to sing the traditional Neapolitan song, "Santa Lucia".  I grinned the whole way through. Gino ended with a quick smile and bow. We and others applauded. Gino responded, "Prego!"

My first visit to Mario's is tied to memories of the opera, before and after dining. My recent memory will always include hearing the beautiful tenor voice of Gino, standing beside our dining table. What a perfect ending. 

Cheers to a Mario's Adventure!

I had kept expectations low. Times change. Places change. Reviewers on the internet can confuse matters.

Don and I both left in great spirits. We were well fed and well taken care of.
We Ubered back to our hotel feeling like we were headed home after a little trip. Not exactly to Italy, but to a different time.  

Thanks Gino for making our evening extra special!
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