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Hotel Le Bristol in 2024 In 2024, Don and I had our second dining adventure at the elegant Hotel Le Bristol.  I'm cheating a bit. Our "dining adventure" within the grand hotel, consisted of drinks and complimentary appetizers. And it wasn't even in the hotel's well-mannered Epicure Restaurant. We weren't seated in the dimly lit Le Bar du Bristol, either. More on where, later. Le Bristol in 1999 25 years earlier we didn't cheat. We had an elegant meal at Le Bristol's Epicure. It cost us more than any meal we've had since.  At the end of that memorable meal, I did the unthinkable. I asked the waiter to take our picture. In '99, I didn't hand over a cellphone and I didn't hand him my 35mm Canon, because it broke the day before. I handed him a tacky disposable camera, with TOURIST written all over it! 1999 Journel This is how the festive entrance looked when we arrived on a chilly November evening, in 2024.  Beneath the holiday decorations, it looked much as it did when we dined a quarter century before.  I have no other photos from our 1999 dinner, but it was easy to remember. Especially with the help of an old journal. I remember being slightly intimidated when our cab pulled up to the busy entrance. A doorman quickly greeted and ushered towards the revolving doors.  My journal describes the start of our evening. "Suddenly our table was quietly swarming with perfectly choreographed service... one server lit our candle and another offered puff pastry hors d'oeuvres... a sommelier rolled over a large cart with various champagnes on ice... a woman carried a basket of bread sticks, covered in herbs... a sliver tray holding a bottle of Evian water was placed on our table..." Famous Guests This image from the hotel's website, shows a table that could have been ours. I remember sipping champagne, while enjoying our view of the garden, with soft evening light. I felt slightly frustrated that our chairs were facing away from the room. How could I see if someone famous was dining? Le Bristol has attracted the rich and famous since its opening in the roaring twenties. From Charlie Chaplin to Rita Hayworth, to Marilyn Monroe and then Woody Allen in 2011, when he filmed scenes for Midnight in Paris.  I tried to contain my giddiness, but I'm sure my face was grinning with the impeccable service. I postponed my gleeful comments, when a large wagon of cheeses was rolled to our table. I halted my giggles, when I realized my menu had no prices, but Don's did. I stifled my gasp when Don whispered that the lobster appetizer we'd just ordered cost $75. Chef Frechon What I don't remember about our evening, was that Epicure had just taken on a new chef. Chef Eric Frechon arrived in 1999 and spent the next 25 years overseeing the kitchen. He brought Epicure its third Michelin star in 2009. It was named the World’s Best Restaurant, three years in a row.  Who knows if Chef Frechon was in the kitchen the night we dined. I like to think he had something to do with the exceptional French cuisine we enjoyed. I wish I could remember more details. I absolutely do remember the glorious chocolate mousse and the miniature pastries. Early Evening in 2024 In 2024, Don and I planned a 4-night trip to Paris over Thanksgiving. We didn't budget in an evening at Le Bristol. Our bill in 1999 came to roughly 850 American dollars! What would that be 25 years later?  -Instead we decided we would just visit the bar for drinks. We walked a mile from our hotel and figured out our strategy. We hoped we could just enter the hotel and head confidently towards the bar. We were feeling a little concerned after reading an article about some ritzy hotel bars in Paris, turning non guests away.  We passed a decorated window on our way to the entrance. I could see a lobby desk, so I guessed we should turn right, once inside. We paused a moment so Don could remove his knit hat and I could snap a touristy photo of the 5-star hotel.  I sloppily captured the cream colored Art Deco exterior... and Don. The fabulous building overlooking rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, was once a private mansion. It didn't become Hotel Le Bristol until 1925. In We Go Don wasn't wearing designer shoes and I wasn't carrying a Gucci handbag, but we strutted inside with purpose. As if we were returning to our $2,000- a-night guest room. Or $14,800 for the Azure Terrace Suite!  Piano music and a red carpet greeted us. So did a nicely dressed woman who looked very much in charge. She greeted and offered guidance, but we kept moving down the stairs. We acknowledged with a "we-got-it-wave" and continued past the piano player, hoping we'd guessed right. I pretty much gave myself away as an American tourist, when I snapped a cellphone pic of the stairs and elevator. Couldn't resist.  If the woman who greeted us was watching, she was probably amused. She probably detected our fake confidence when we entered. I'm sure she's observed all kinds of characters coming through the revolving doors. Hotel Bar? We turned the corner and followed our feet to a lovely space with comfy chairs beneath white clouds and crystal chandeliers.  A different woman welcomed us. She ushered us to a cozy table for two and gave me a cushioned stool to hold my purse. I noticed 2 nearby women enjoying tea. Ladies' Teatime? Cafe Antonia We were each handed a lovely menu with a blurry face. Cafe Antonia? Was this hotel's bar? Were we being given menus for a high tea?  The classy cafe did indeed have Tea Time from 3:00 to 6:00. But the menus offered cocktails. We placed our order and relaxed. Then the server returned and apologized, "I'm sorry." She began. I tensed like a teen with a fake I.D. "I didn't get your room number." I explained we weren't guests and she seemed fine with that. But then another woman, (a manager perhaps) came over and asked if we would be ordering food. "Just drinks." I smiled. We waited for the hook... the big boot. But we were just paranoid. I believe she was just checking on us before the menu changed at 6:00. Ahh! Drinks and More Along with our drinks, we were given a tasty assortment of olives and nuts.  Complimentary treats always put me at ease. Unless I overthink it, like I do with palate cleansing sorbet. Do I politely put my spoon down before finishing? Or with decorative carved veggies and fruits, at some Asian restaurants. Is this edible or do they plan to reuse?! Another little plate of goodies arrived after we'd taken a few sips. We were no longer concerned. We were hungry.  Our photo op suddenly had discarded skewers. We were enjoying our nibbles as if we grew up in the Clean Your Plate 1960s. Which we did. Cheers to Queen Antionette! The welcoming goodies (and drinks) put us at ease. We sat back and took in our surroundings with all the French 18th century decor. A portrait of Queen Antoinette decorated one wall. Antonia is the name that Queen Antoinette's mother used for her daughter.
Don sipped a Manhattan. I sipped La Dolce Vita Champagne Cocktail. "Cheers to the Queen!" We were no longer concerned that we looked touristy. We snapped photos of each other. Powder My Nose We had plans to only have one drink each, before heading to dinner elsewhere. My drink with tip was probably about $40 and I'd say it was totally worth it.  Before we finished up, I made sure to get my money's worth with a little exploring. "I'm going to powder my nose." I told Don. Which always means, "I'm going to explore." I paused at a decorated tree. I was very delighted when I found this stunning perched peacock.  I walked closer for a photo and suddenly found the entrance to the hotel's bar. I chuckled to myself because just minutes ago, Don and I had strutted our way into Le Bristol and marched ourselves right up to the hotel's lovely cafe, not the bar. Le Bar du Bristol The swanky, violet colored bar looked inviting at 6:30 pm. It had just opened and the music wasn't throbbing. No partiers beneath the disco balls yet. It was tempting to grab Don and head back for an early Le Bristol After Dark experience.  But I was actually content just peeking in for a moment. I found myself chatting with 2 servers who welcomed me to look around. They seemed surprisingly curious when I told them I'd visited the hotel 25 years before. The young woman was eager to describe all the changes she'd notice at Le Bristol in recent years. Before I left, she pointed to the peacock and asked me the English word. I told her and then did my best impression of a peacock wailing sound. A hushed version. What a nice little visit. Heading Off Don was paying our bill when I returned. Antonia's was getting a little busier.  I hated to leave, just as the place was getting livelier. Good people watching. I told Don about the bar that I discovered. We agreed, "Next time." Posing I did some posing at the bottom of the stairs, before we headed out.  I didn't see the woman who greeted us again. It's amusing to think we had been so worried about being turned away. That article was clearly not talking about Le Bristol. Everyone we spoke to was gracious and welcoming. Good-Bye Paris I'm so glad Don and I were able to visit the magical City of Light one more time.
The Eiffel Tower still impresses me and so does the glamorous Hotel Le Bristol. I'm dreaming of a future visit. I could go for a dinner and an overnight at the grand hotel! Next time!
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Magical Dining in Alsace Region of France It's been over a year since Don and I spent an evening inside this magical Medieval building, in the heart of Strasbourg's Old Town.  This is how the Gothic beauty looked early morning, on a cold November day. Busy Christmas Market And this is how the famous Kammerzell House looked from a distance, about 6 hours later.  Skies were cloudy and moist. Streets were jammed with visitors attending the annual Christmas Market. Since 1427 This photo shows a different portion of the Maison Kammerzell Hotel and Restaurant. Was this section added much later? The dining room where we ate, was housed in the dark, ornately carved wooden structure. The oldest part of this historic building dates back to 1427.  Maison Kammerzell's neighbor is even older! Construction on the Notre-Dame Cathedral, began in 1190. It took 249 years to complete. Finished by 1439! Peek Inside I spent some time admiring the building, while wandering on a chilly Monday morning. The glowing arcade windows lured me near for a peek.  I could see a couple of tables, ready to serve breakfast. There are less than 10 hotel rooms at Maison Kammerzell and those lucky guests could enjoy a cozy breakfast, without leaving the building! My Favorite Door I found another inviting door, on the Cathedral side of the building.  I was curious about the wooden structures on both sides of the door. I was glad to get a close up look at the bottle glass windows, that I'd studied high above on the building's facade. There must have been 50 of those windows, with circular glass. Another Peek Near the charming entrance, I found a different window that offered a look at a more formal dining space.  This room was darker and cozier, with traditional chairs and tablecloths. Castle-worthy light fixtures hung from the umbrella-shaped vaulted ceiling. Lights and Storks Don and I only had 2 nights in Strasbourg. We arrived at the beginning of the month long Christmas Market season. We were able to get reservations at Maison Kammerzell on the second night. It was drizzling when we walked from our hotel and spotted my favorite entrance, with garland and lights.
I snapped a photo of the old sign. Now when I study the photo, I notice a market rooftop, glowing below the sign. A chimney holds a nest of white storks! We saw a lot of stork decor during our stay! Storks are a symbol of Alsace. Rainy Monday We headed towards the main entrance, near soggy cafe tables. What fun to dine there on a warm evening, with a view of the Cathedral.
I looked through the glass, with an etched "K". The bright room looked welcoming and the diners looked happy. But I hoped for a table on one of the higher floors. Out of the Rain We closed my dripping umbrella and headed inside.  A gracious host greeted us, not far from this wonderful mosaic floor design.  The red numbers reminded of the building's age. 597 years, since the original building was complete! Heading Up! As our host checked on our reservations, I looked to the left and spotted diners in the same salon that I'd seen before breakfast. The painted ceilings and bustling bar made me happy to step in that direction.
But when our host gestured towards the stairs, I got a little happier. We moved up the stairs, looking at lots of faces in frames.
I didn't exactly recognize all of the (mostly French) faces, but Liz caught my eye. Were these all famous guests who once dined at Kammerzell's? Spiraling Staircase Suddenly the climb got more exciting as we began to curl upwards, inside a 16th century stone spiral staircase. It seemed like we were climbing within a medieval tower!
Curious windows on both sides, confused me. Just where were we, within this structure? As we moved higher, I saw giant knot hanging from a rope, on the inside of the spiral.
I have fond memories of climbing bell towers in Italy as a kid. Counting steps and never worrying about the tripping or tumbling. I don't remember any ropes like this, from the past.  But the kid in me had fun using the heavy rope like a mountain climber! I forgot to count steps, though. Third Floor The staircase continued up, but we stepped off at the third floor.  I couldn't have been happier, when we ended up in a cozy room, with 4 tables. Each corner had its own charm.  This one with the rounded fireplace was inviting. A champagne bucket was at the ready. Leo Schnug's Frescoes In 1905, Maison Kammerzell became a restaurant for the first time. The interior was redone and local artist Leo Schnug, created frescoes in many of the dining rooms. He even hid his portrait in some of the scenes.  It was about 7:00 when we were seated, near the windows.  A basket of bread and a bowl of pretzels awaited us, along with napkins, folded like party hats. Our waiter arrived with menus. He was a bit aloof and distracted, but I didn't care. My attention was drawn the simple illustration of Maison Kammerzell.  This image is actually not how the building looked in 1427. A cheese merchant acquired the property in 1571. He kept the original stone ground floor and added 3 more stories. The ornate timber-work came later. A grocer named Kammerzelle owned in the 19th century and gave the building its current name. Surrounded by Surprises We were the first guests seated in our little room. I took advantage and popped up to study our cozy space before others arrived.  There were splendid surprises everywhere I looked. The wooden light fixture above us, displayed carved fish! We had our own little piece of Leo's art, right beside our table.  A horse and wagon scene. Were all the paintings showing us what we might see in Strasbourg, in 1905? Cheers! We didn't attempt to engage with our busy waiter. We did try to place our order in French and then we enjoyed a toast to the fairytale setting.
I was especially excited to add a special toast to the glass bottle windows, right behind me! How many bottle bottoms in this entire building! Our Alsatian Feast Don and I waited for our Alsatian dishes to arrive, with no big expectations. I had read a lot of whiny reviews about service and food, so we were just along for the ride... enjoying the atmosphere and happy to taste food from the region.  My dish had a long name. Fricassee de Volaille facon et Coq au Riesling, Spatzle Sautes au Beurre. My chicken and spatzle photo doesn't look as appetizing as it was. Pearl onions, mushrooms and some kind of crouton. The chicken flavor was very nice. No complaints. Les Choucroutes Baumann Don went with one of the Alsatian sauerkraut and pork specialties. I had to chuckle when I saw his meats piled high on a bed of sauerkraut!  When I looked at Don's plate I cringed at his pink meats, 2 bland potatoes and a pickle.  Don is always much braver than me when it comes to meat in general. But I showed him how daring I was, when I gave his blood sausage a try. (it was not a pickle) Quick Adventure After giving our dinner a decent amount of attention, I was ready for the powder room. Really, I just wanted to explore! I headed down the wild staircase.
I peered into a room that showed more bottle glass and a wonderful door with impressive hardware. I stuck my nose in one of the many dining rooms. Who were all these people? Tourists? From where? I heard no English.  I admired the frescoes for a moment, then grinned to myself. We definitely had been seated in the coziest room! Modern Ladies Room I eventually found the updated powder room.  A totally different style of art! Surely this was not Leo's work.  I snapped a photo of the backs & rocks scene, then headed for the climb. More Celebs On the stairs I was happy to recognize President Macron and a waving Pope! I'm afraid I don't know which. I should though. I've actually (by odd luck) seen 3 different popes in person. In my memory, each is waving just like this photo.
There were a few more I recognized, like Winston Churchill, in 1942. I'm afraid I never laid eyes on him. I continued up the stone staircase, heading back to Don...
Who waited patiently in our cozy dining room, now filled with diners. Just Right Before heading off, we decided to reward ourselves with a sweet treat.  3 yummy scoops of ice cream. Salted caramel, cinnamon and vanilla. Topped with a light meringue. Perfect! Looking Up It was just after 9 when we stepped outside, into the 40-degree drizzle.  I looked up and wondered which window was the one near our table.
We headed back towards our hotel, glancing back one last time, at the historic building beside the towering cathedral.  What a perfect time to have visit Strasbourg, with the Christmas Market and festive atmosphere!
But next time, let it be summer! I want to stay in that historic Kammerzell Hotel and dine at the patio tables, on a balmy evening! |
The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
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