Caffe Canova Tadolini, in Rome

Cafe-Museum
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We were the only diners inside this little museum. last October. It was magical.

The only other diners we saw at Canova Tadolini were seated outside. They were focused on food & drink, not art.

"Museo Atelier"

Don and I stumbled across this remarkable place while wandering in Rome last October. The brass sign near the door, had the Italian words for museum and studio. It also had the names of 2 artists.

We knew a bit about the sculptor, Antonio Canova. We learned later that Adamo Tadolini had been Canova's prized student and this building became their studio in 1818.

Ugliest Fountain in Rome

We actually didn't see the brass sign right away, when we were strolling down Via del Babuino. We could have totally missed the curious art-filled cafe, if something odd hadn't caught our attention first.

This moss covered man with the odd expression, was in front of Caffe Canova Tadolini.

Babuino

The creepy 16th century figure is nicknamed Babuino, which means Baboon. It is one of Rome's "talking statues". I wasn't familiar with that term, but it's worth a Google search.

We studied the odd fellow lounging above the fountain, looking out over the street. The street actually had a different name once, but it became Via del Babuino, eventually.  Babuino is obviously very influential!


We weren't the only ones pausing to study Babuino. He has drawn attention for hundreds of years. 

This dapper man paused to look at the statue, before heading off with his briefcase.

Plain Building

After admiring the "furry man" we noticed the building behind. It looked simple but curious, with leaded glass windows and flags. 

We saw cafe tables and a pretty church, just beyond. Only a few of the cafe tables were occupied at 11 am.

A Bold Entrance
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We headed on our way, then stopped abruptly when we spotted this bold entrance. It looked like a wild collection of statues, attempting to escape!

As we peered inside, a man greeted and invited us in.

The room we entered looked like a museum. A somewhat cluttered museum. 

I made Don pose to show the size of that enormous horse. 

​Bar

The room to the left of the entrance, held a bar. Evidence that this was not just a museum. I could see food on display, as well as sculptures.

The liquor bottles shared shelf space with some smaller sculptures. A large foot here and a pair of cherubs there... 

Inside Dining
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A waiter introduced himself as Jimmy. He seemed delighted when we asked  to dine inside the museum, unlike the other guests.

He took us through a doorway, past a few important looking sculpted men.

There were about 4 tables squeezed into the front room. 

Don and I were both pretty clueless and assumed these were marble statues. We learned more later.
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I posed to show just how large and impressive these pieces were. 

It turns out the museum was filled with 2 centuries worth of Italian sculpture. Most of what we saw were practice pieces, preparatory models and plaster casts used for creating finished sculptures.

The final works are exhibited in museums around the world. 

Don and I learned a little of this from some information written in the menus. But Jimmy spoke enough English to help us understand a little more.

A New Room

Jimmy ended up moving us to a back room, where we could absorb even more art and history. It was amazing to sit in this space where Canova and Tadolini worked together. The studio was handed over to Tadolini and 4 generations of his family produced work here.

The studio remained in the Tadolini family from 1818 to 1967. Adamo Tadolini's great-great-grandson Enrico Tadolini, was the last to work in this space. After his death in 1967, the studio was abandoned for a period. 

Jimmy's Favorite

I asked Jimmy which piece was his favorite in the museum. He pointed to the figure behind him, that I thought was Madonna at first.

I was a bit confused, but I believe Jimmy said the statue was a practice piece, for a final sculpture that is now displayed in the Vatican.

St. Frances Cabrini

I took a closer look. The woman with the angel, is actually St. Frances Cabrini, who was canonized in 1946.

A nearby display of photos gave a little insight. Although I can't read Italian.

​​I learned with some internet help, that it was Enrico Tadolini who sculpted this massive piece in 1947.

I studied the photos and tried to imagine how Enrico created this tremendous piece inside the studio, where we were about to have lunch. 

My eyes were drawn to the photo of Enrico, with the face of St. Frances Cabrini. The image is almost a little sad. He looks exhausted.

I have a new appreciation for these sculptors and the strenuous work that went into these especially large pieces. I read that Canova's death at age 64, was due to the physical damage done to his body, after years working with heavy tools.

Relaxing in the Corner

Don and I did nothing rigorous. We took a seat at a little table where we could enjoy all that surrounded us.

The framed piece beside Don, shows a 2022 stamp that honored Canova.

From my chair, I could look out  towards the entrance. The tall window made me imagine the artists, working on enormous pieces.

Across from me I studied a piano, holding smaller works. 

The fancy woman and her fancy chair, intrigued me.

The pieces were numbered, so it felt organized like a museum. 

Yet the sculptures and sketches and photographs were so casually placed, it felt just like a cluttered studio. 

Which I think was the point in the 1990s, when a gallery purchased all the works. (nearly 500) The idea was to create a restaurant, yet maintain the somewhat chaotic atmosphere of the original studio.

History

Besides the plaster sculptures and practice pieces, there were lots of photos and articles displayed.

This one shows the studio long ago. The entrance, with its massive door.

Time for Food

It seemed odd to order food in a museum, but we were hungry by 11:30.

We ordered cappuccino first.

Don ordered a ham panini for a reasonable 6.50 euros.

I was excited about my toast sandwich with ham, cheese, egg and lettuce.

A tasty late morning treat.

​People Watching

We had the back room to ourselves until a man came with a ladder. We were entertained, watching him fix a spotlight.

After a while I was entertained by a woman who came in from outside. She seemed to be in search of a restroom. She headed for the corner and seemed confused to find a dead end. Then she magically disappeared. A hidden automatic door! Just another surprise in the museum. 

The Three Graces

After finishing lunch I decided to try out the magical mystery door, myself. I  walked past the familiar statue of The Three Graces... and wondered.

Canova's original from 1814, is in Russia now. I wish I'd asked Jimmy what he knew about this piece. Was it a practice piece?

​Before Departing

We finished our meal and I took one more snap of the incredible room where we had just enjoyed a light meal.

Jimmy thanked us for coming and insisted on taking our photo. 

He placed us at a table in front of his favorite statue. I have to chuckle at our awkward, yet happy pose. It looks like I'm wearing an artist's smock!

​Good Bye Babunio!

We thanked Jimmy for our wonderful experience at the museum.

We headed out and said good-bye to Babuino and thanked him for catching our attention that morning!

What a wonderful Dining Adventure!
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