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Austin's Original Honky Tonk For over 2 decades I've said the same thing every time we've passed Broken Spoke on South Lamar. "Let's go there sometime." Motivation It took a 5-year-old cowgirl to get us motivated to give it a try. Last week, Charlie told her grandparents she was game. She put on her boots and so did I. Wheels and Spokes After a 45 minute drive in traffic we arrived, ready to see wheels and spokes. That's because we'd had a mighty long discussion about the name Broken Spoke. Charlie was excited to count about 8 wagon wheels right away. She was extra excited to see that each had a broken spoke. 4 on a Friday We arrived when doors opened at 4. There was a lot to read, around the door. I glanced at the historic marker and learned that James M. White opened the dance hall in 1964, just south of the city limits...at a former lumber yard. Rowdy and Others When we stepped inside the dimly lit saloon, we heard greetings from the only occupied table in the front room. A handful of employees were seated at an octagonal table finishing a meal. This odd character sat with them. One of the upbeat voices was Mandy. She complimented Charlie's boots and later introduced her to Rowdy, the sad looking character who sits permanently at the table. Decor Mandy noticed Charlie looking around at the curious decor. I never expected Charlie to feel so at home in an old saloon, but Mandy knew all the right questions to warm Charlie up. They talked about boots and music. Charlie suddenly was eager to tell Mandy about her dance recital the next day. Dance Hall Mandy decided that since Charlie was a "dancer", she should take a peek inside the dance hall. It was hours before the doors would open for music and dancing. We felt pretty lucky to enjoy the 1,500 square foot space with no one around. The sign above Charlie reminded us not to STAND on the dance floor. It also insisted "NO LINE DANCING". Charlie followed rules and ran instead. Authentic Little has changed since the dance hall opened over 60 years ago. Checked tablecloths and folding chairs... a big fan and some neon here and there. On Stage Mandy invited Charlie to get on the stage. Charlie wanted me to step up there with her. I think she looks a little perplexed. Maybe because no one handed her a mic. She's been known to do a little karaoke with her mom. "Tourist Trap" As we headed back to the front room, Charlie peeked into a glowing room filled with photo displays. A voice from behind the bar said "Your welcome to look around the Tourist Trap! We were happy to wander around a bit. Most of the old photos and magazines had faces of western singers and performers that I didn't recognize. I recognized the name of the president who was born not far from Austin. I couldn't figure out if this hat actually once belonged to President Johnson. Charlie didn't need help figuring out what the wooden holder was. "This is for a violin." She announced. Was that actually some kind of fiddle stand? Should Have Counted It was a little like an Easter egg hunt, looking for wagon wheels. We should have counted all the wheels inside the saloon and dance hall. Some of the spokes were more broken than others. Charlie was a little amused by a framed photo of George Strait, behind one wheel. She wanted me to explain why there were lipstick kisses all over the glass. Willie and Others A lot of performers got their start at Broken Spoke. Willie Nelson played with Kris Kristofferson in the mid sixties. That was long before Willie had braids. He had a crewcut then, when he came back to Texas after some time in Nashville. George... Dolly Charlie posed with George Strait, even though she didn't know who he was. Too bad we couldn't find a life-sized Dolly Parton. Charlie is a big fan... after a visit to Dollywood last year. Dolly spent some time at Broken Spoke, when she filmed a TV movie here in 1987. Early Dinner After exploring the Tourist Trap, we headed past the old bar to find a table in the front room. Our plan was to have an early dinner before the Friday night crowds arrived. We had lots of entertaining booths to choose from. Charlie choose a table where she could keep an eye on Rowdy. We were also near a saddle, enclosed in glass. We wondered if anyone would join Rowdy at his table since the staff was up and working. He looked pretty lonely. Food Mandy gave us some good advice for ordering. We started with a salad covered in Thousand Island. Then Chicken Fried Steak smothered in gravy. Since Mandy had warned about the CF Steak being bigger than Charlie's head, we took her advice and split. Charlie had chicken quesadillas. She was a little afraid of our chicken fried, but she was very excited when we shared our fries. We did not share our Lone Star Beer. Tracie From our table we had fun watching some activity near the front door. They were setting up for some live music. Tracie paused from setting up, to chat with Charlie. She showed her the pool table in another room. Tracie said she was mighty jealous of Charlie's name. She'd always wanted it, since it was her dad's name. Live Music We were too early for the dance hall, but we got live entertainment in the saloon! When Broken Spoke opened in '64, they only had a juke box. These two filled the saloon with some fine country music and entertaining banter. A Dancing Friend By 5:00, 2 more tables were occupied. A 4-year-old girl and her parents took the table right next to us. The girls had something in common. Dance! The sweet 4-year-old had just been in a dance recital that afternoon. Tracie encouraged the "Tiny Dancers" to get up and enjoy the music. And they absolutely did! Charlie's favorite was "These Boots Are Made For Walking". I could hear her singing the song later that night in her bed. Bye George After 2 hours at the Spoke, it was time to get going. Charlie and I headed for the Ladies Room first and found a bathroom full of Georges. We counted and came up with about 45 George smiles! Add one more for the giant George on the ceiling! To Be Continued Skies were stormy and damp when we headed out. That helped us see the neon! What a fun evening, enjoying this iconic honky tonk... sort of through the eyes of a 5-year-old.
We headed to the car with plans to come back another night with Charlie's parents. 2-Step dance lessons are available at 8 and kids are welcome! I see more Broken Spoke Adventures in our future!
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The Dining Blog
This is a blog about Dining Adventures. Sometimes, I talk about food. Below, you can read how this started. On July 4th 2011, I set a goal to try 50 culturally diverse restaurants in one year! (I knew that was possible, living in the Houston area) I spent the year pulling in friends and family to join me, on some unusual dining adventures. I met some curious people, tried some scary foods and explored places and cultures I never would have otherwise. Even though I met my goal, I learned too much to end my adventures in dining. I have continued blogging about memorable dining adventures of all kinds, near and far... and all the discoveries and funny things I've learned along the way! Locations and types of dining adventures, are listed further down. Archives
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