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Blue Skies in Paradise! Last August, it felt a little like paradise when we arrived at Mount Rainier's Paradise Inn!  The gray and green colors of the inn looked mighty fine against the deep blue sky.  The 109-year-old building looked even more dramatic from behind. I hiked back just a bit to catch a view that showed Mount Rainier! 1917 This vintage postcard shows how the hotel looked when it first opened.  But maybe not! This is an illustration, not a photo. It was probably the architect's drawing, since I read that he wanted the roof to be red. The National Park Service said no to that. They wanted a green roof that would blend with the surroundings. August 2026 We arrived late afternoon on a Wednesday. The steep roof didn't look a bit green to me.  The roof's angle was what I did notice. It was designed to keep heavy snow from collecting, since the park gets about 50 feet of snow annually. The intense winters force the inn to shut down for about 6 months each year. Check Inn It was a little before 5 by the time we parked and headed into the lobby. The desk area wasn't as peaceful as my photo, when we approached. There was a bit of commotion, due to a faulty smoke alarm that was blasting.
The staff handled the alarm craziness with good humor. By the time we got our keys the problem was resolved. Before heading up I had fun eyeing some of the carved wood that surrounded us. I'd read about the craftsman Hans Fraehnke, who created the Bavarian style furniture and decor. Grand Hall When we stepped inside the lobby's grand hall, my eyes were drawn to the 50-ft open timber ceiling.  I spotted the stone fireplace at one end and sort of wished for a sudden snowstorm! Another massive fireplace was down at the east end, closer to the reception desk.  Many of the lodge chairs were suddenly vacant, since many guests were moving towards the line into the dining room. A lot of hungry folks at 5 pm! Rustic Rooms Don and I were traveling with my sister and her wife. We were prepared for a no-frills stay, when we headed up to our rooms. That's part of the experience with National Park lodging.
So is stair climbing. There was no elevator to take us to the 4th floor. But the window view halfway up was lovely. Dorm Halls Don and I were sort of amused as we headed down a spacious hallway. We noted that it had as much charm as a 1950's dormitory.  The door to #475 opened to a not so spacious room, tucked away at the peak of the annex building. Right beneath the very roof I'd been studying from the outside. The annex wasn't a modern addition. It was added in 1920, which meant no a.c. and no bathroom. The window was open to let in fresh air, but the room still felt a bit stuffy.
The comically narrow single beds barely fit in their little nook. But we each had 2 pillows and a tidy little bundle holding our robe and slippers. Those goodies were for us to wear when we hiked quite a ways to the shared bathrooms. A hike that involved some turns and stairs. Our room for $330. had no view of Mount Rainier. "Rainier Rooms" sell out and cost closer to $600. I'm guessing they do have bathrooms for that price.
I couldn't really complain about the view. Trees, blue skies and a bonus peek of the Tatoosh Mountain Range.  I wish I'd attempted a photo at 10 pm when I raised the window higher to let in more air. I've never seen such darkness... except for a flashlight, that accompanied a walker. Hanging Out Before dinner I was eager to meet up with Jennifer and Kate and start exploring. Jennifer tried out one of Bavarian chairs, with pencil points!
I spotted more pencil points on the 14-ft clock! I hoped to hear the clock tick or chime, but a battery now keeps the clock running quietly. I was curious about the charming piano. It looked like something from a child's storybook. In 1945 President Truman visited Paradise Inn and played "The Tennessee Waltz" on this piano.  Later in the evening this young man filled the peaceful hall with his music. I was told that he was a staff member who enjoyed playing after his work shift, since the inn no longer has a regular piano player. Another nice surprise later in the evening, was seeing the glowing lampshades. Originally the inn was decorated with Japanese paper lanterns.
During a 1930s remodel, the park replaced the lanterns with sturdier parchment shades. The wives of park rangers hand-painted each one with wildflowers. The shades today are replicas and there are more than 60 unique designs. Mezzanine Level One of my favorite places was high above the grand hall. Originally the large lobby area was completely open from floor to ceiling. In 1925 a mezzanine was added to provide sitting areas above.
I loved strolling across the walkway that connected both sides. It was a great way to view the glowing lamp shades.  It was also a great way to spy on our fellow guests below.
Actually our fellow guests were mostly just reading or playing cards or chatting quietly. We looked around for a cozy spot to enjoy.
We found a fun spot with wood beams, lodge furniture and piano music wafting up! Back to Evening My favorite part of the stay was early evening, on the deck.  We were lucky to find a spot for 4, on the elevated patio.
We had a great view of the Tatoosh Range.  We studied the jagged shapes while we sipped and snacked a little.  We watched a sweet bird for a while. Jennifer got a great photo.   After a few minutes with our heavenly view, I suddenly slipped away from the table to sneak a peek of Mount Rainier. About 300 yards from the patio deck, I found this view.  Even staff at the lodge said the view was especially sharp on that day! The Muir Steps In 1888, John Muir was also impressed with this view. His words are written on the granite steps that lead your eyes to Mount Rainier and your feet to the trails.  Muir did more than look, 137 years ago. He was 50 when he climbed Mount Rainier. He worked hard to get this special place established as a National Park. Wandering Back Before heading back I admired some of those alpine flowers that Muir appreciated.
I wandered and wondered... what was with that 2-story triangular building? A raised outhouse, with a high door... for snowdrifts? Probably just a shed. I headed back towards to the inn and spotted my sister looking out towards the mountains with her binoculars!  I returned to the deck and joined our group to enjoy the lingering evening light.  A gracious guest offered to take our photo. 7:30 Dinner When we arrived for our reservations, the dining room was a little darker than my 5 pm photo.  When we entered at 7:30 the hardworking staff was busily busing tables after an early evening rush. The tables no longer looked perfectly prepped, but the dining room was calm and welcoming. The buffet tables were looking a little sloppy by the time we visited to fill our empty plates. But we all found some good options.
Our table by the window had a lovely view. And thanks to the upbeat young fellow working the fabulous dessert table, I ended up with 4 desserts! After dinner all the day tourists were clearly gone. Jennifer caught this image of the glowing lodge looking very peaceful.  Hours before, the same view had looked very different, with cars pulling up and guests moving in and out. Nighttime After dinner we spent a little more time wandering.  I loved the displayed vintage photos, that helped me imagine guests a century ago. Walt & Lillian in 1925 The old images made me think about the book I was reading during our trip. "Walt Disney: An American Original" had a photo of Walt Disney and his bride at Mount Rainer.  When I headed for bed I was happy to have no TV sounds in our hotel when I read. As the fan buzzed nearby, I imagined good old Walt and Lillian enjoying the park. I also thought about another famous guest! Shirley Temple was 7 when she spent a night in 1936 and woke to see a fawn out her window. Morning It wasn't cold the next morning but temps had dropped enough to enjoy a fire in the lobby!
Don and I snagged 2 chairs and chatted with the man who tended the fire. He entertained us with his skills... crawling inside to add logs! Early View Around 7am Don and I headed over to the Muir Steps, which seemed to be the exact time lots other travelers had planned to meet up.
We patiently waited our turn to take a photo on the steps. While attempting a sloppy selfie, a kind ranger offered to take our photo. Such a nice guy! Sister Hike A short while later, Jennifer and I decided to take a hike. We followed a sign to Myrtle Falls Viewpoint.  The views were more stunning than expected!
 The wildlife was incredibly entertaining!
We heard the marmot before we spotted it! I now know why they're called "whistling pigs"!  Jennifer and I were so impressed with the scenery that we went back to get Don and Kate.
We retraced our steps and enjoyed it all over again! 11:00 came too soon. We checked out and I sat enjoying the lodge furniture for a couple more minutes.  I chatted with an older guest who stays a week with his wife, every year. I sat wondering if I could handle a week of buffets and bathrooms down the hall. Then I remembered that some rooms have a private bath. Hmm? What's Notable? The historic timber-framed lodge felt both cozy and dramatic. Stone fireplaces, rustic furniture, a curious mezzanine! This is was I always hope for, when staying at a National Park Lodge.  The guest room with shared bath was pretty much what I'd expected. A good place to sleep, not to hang out. The dining experience was totally fine, but not epic.
The Mount Rainier Setting, (along with excellent weather) is truly what I'll remember most. I couldn't have been more pleased with every moment we spent outdoors. I'll never forget how lovely everything looked and felt, from drinks on the patio, to hiking on the paths and trails... it was absolutely a piece of Paradise.
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Another National Park Lodge! I love lodges... tucked into remote wilderness settings, filled with wood beams and rustic furniture.  Last August, Don and I stayed at our 9th National Park Lodge. My old brain is starting to confuse some of these wonderful places! Olympic National Park But our stay at Lake Crescent Lodge, in Washington's Olympic National Park, felt very different.  This time we a shared a Notable Lodge Adventure, with my sister and sister-in-law! Lodge on the Lake There was nothing overly grand about the lodge, sitting beside the lake. Maybe that's why I liked it.
It felt more like a New England inn, than a national park lodge. The front porch and lake-facing sunroom made the lodge feel homey. "Singer's Lake Crescent Tavern" The lodge was actually built about 2 decades before Olympic National Park came to be. The lakeside resort was built by Avery and Julia Singer in 1916. The isolated property was hard to reach, but travelers could make their way to the lodge by wagon roads or steam ferries.  The resort had 7 guest rooms in the lodge, plus a row of wood-framed cottages. Canvas tents were also used. The cottages looked inviting with their porches and rockers, as we passed on the way to the main building.  The current cottages were rebuilt after the originals began to deteriorate. The exact design was used to replace the old buildings. The Lodge & FDR My morning photo of the lobby looks a lot more peaceful than when we first arrived. At 4:30 pm there were guests of all ages, checking in, standing in line at the bar and lounging in all the seating areas.  I wonder what the vibe was in 1937, when President Roosevelt spent time in this very lobby, after touring the Olympic Peninsula. Evidently a storm was crashing outside as he faced an intense pro-timber crowd, opposed to the idea of a future national park. 9 months later FDR signed the bill which added Olympic National Park, as the the 23rd National Park! Cozy Space The lobby was lively when we arrived. Speakers played music that we wouldn't have heard in the early days of the park. In the morning without people around, I could more easily imagine guests in the 1940s, playing chess or reading books by the fire. I peeked around and spotted a phone booth. I could suddenly picture the wooden phone box being in high demand, back in pre-cellphone days. Local lore claims that one famous guest used that very phone booth in 1962.  Supposedly Robert Kennedy and his family were guests, on the day that Marilyn Monroe died. With no phones in rooms, RFK spent a good deal of time inside the phone booth talking to his brother. At least that's what the rumor says. If it is indeed just a rumor, it's an odd one. I'd be curious to hear the story explaining how the rumor came to be. Up We Go After checking in, we headed up the stairs. No elevators at the lodge.
Walking down the narrow hall I felt like I'd stepped back in time, to one of the no frills family camps my mother used to describe. White washed walls, pipes near the ceiling... an open window. 5 Rooms There are only 5 original rooms left upstairs. My fingers were crossed that ours might be above the sunroom, with windows opening to a lake view.  No luck. Don and I had a room on the back, near a chimney.
My sister Jennifer took this fine photo of me looking out our narrow window. One can only guess what that expression is about. Dorm Room I knew that the room I'd booked had 2 single beds, no TV and no phone or bathroom. But I still was a little surprised at how tiny it was.
We had one table and lamp, plus a shelf holding towels. I'm sure the room has hardly changed since the Singers opened the resort. Except for one thing. A Keurig coffeemaker. We also had a bench that was placed in front of a door that led to an adjoining room. Luckily Jennifer and Kate were in the next room. The walls were so thin we didn't need to open the door to make plans.  Don and I laughed at our cramped dorm room. We're always willing to put up with a little inconvenience, to stay in an epic, historic place. But we're also getting older. 12 years older than when we started these crazy Notable Night Adventures! Jealous! "No fair!" is something you learn to say frequently when you're a little sister. I played my whiny younger sister role when I saw Kate and Jennifer's room. "No fair! You have a big window! Wait, why do you get a sink and we don't!"  Our room did supply slippers, but no robes for shuffling down the hall to the bathroom in the middle of the night. 1 toilet for the ladies and 1 for the men. That can be tricky, sharing with 5 guest rooms. At 10 pm I was forced to brush my teeth in the women's shower room. Searching for a Spot At 5:30, the lobby music didn't appeal to us, so we looked for seating elsewhere. The sunroom was a good option with its open windows.
But the front porch was better! We lucked out finding 4 chairs and a table.
I love a front porch! It was entertaining watching visitors come and go. Lake Activity Even better, there was lots of activity to watch on the nearby beach.  I like to imagine back in the day, when guests first arrived by ferry. The lodge was much more remote, before the Olympic Highway was built in 1922. Lake Time Jennifer and I suddenly couldn't sit still on the porch. We left Kate and Don for while, to stick our feet in the lake.
It wasn't as cold as you'd guess for a lake created by a glacier. It was certainly clearer than any lake water I've ever seen back home in Texas! "Lady of the Lake" I wonder how many of the guests who enjoyed the lake that day, knew about the sad story of Hallie Illingworth. I'm glad I didn't know it at the time.  After our stay, I learned the story. A 37-year-old lodge waitress went missing, days before Christmas in 1937. Her abusive husband was later charged when her body was found in the lake. Over the years, many have shared about their surprising moments, when the Lady of the Lake has appeared, near the water and in the lodge.
I'm glad the only surprise we found in the water was a sweet duck. Ready for Dinner It was hard to give up our perfect porch spot, but we had dinner reservations.
We entered the dining room beneath a giant elk head. The stone fireplace added some character, but low ceilings and modern woodwork lacked charm. It made me wish we could have dined like guests a century ago, who ate at tables in the cozy lobby area or on the porch.
Our server seemed professional and the menu offered some tasty options, but service was a bit slow. That meant I had some spare time, to run outside and check on the sunset.  After I returned to the table, Jennifer stepped out and got an even better photo. No fair!  Just kidding about the sibling squabbles. Jennifer got a wonderful shot of that glorious view! Morning After dinner we headed upstairs. Guests on the second floor were so quiet, they must have all been whispering. The lodge rules say no kids under 18 are allowed upstairs. No noise after 10. I was glad for the quiet and slept well. To bed early and up early. It was fun to head downstairs before 7 and have the lobby and porch to myself. I was no longer alone when I wandered the grounds beneath the towering pines. Frisky squirrels were going crazy above me! I swear they were aiming at me with those pinecones! Too Short After a tasty breakfast in the dining room, we packed up and headed off.  As we passed the lineup of kayaks and paddle boards, we were reminded that we really hadn't begun to enjoy all that the lodge and lake had to offer. We were leaving too soon. What's Notable? Our stay at Lake Crescent Lodge felt more like a popular family camp than a touristy National Park. The atmosphere felt active, yet relaxed. The guests enjoying the lodge were more varied in age. There were fewer serious outdoorsmen and fewer oldster retirees, than we've seen at other NPs. Being an oldster, I can say that.  Mostly I loved how the lodge felt like a big home, sitting on a big lake. Even with busy families on the beach, everything felt calm. Our 1 night stay made me crave a family reunion. Jennifer and I sat on a log talking about that very possibility. Maybe someday?
Lucky Lodge Stay Getting National Park Lodge reservations, is always a tricky thing. In the past we've booked a year in advance. But, last summer Don and I snagged a last-minute, cancelled room at Crater Lake Lodge.  We were also lucky just getting to the lodge. Snow closed one of the roads and we drove through rain on the other. But, the clouds began to lift when we arrived! Double Lucky We were double lucky when we returned a week later with our daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter!  This time we managed to get TWO last minute, lake-view rooms AND the sun was out! (Not all luck. I must admit, I spent an insane amount of time online and on my phone.) The Lake The manmade structure looked mighty impressive as we approached. But it was hard to compete with the natural beauty behind the lodge. Crater Lake is the deepest and bluest lake in the United States!  The hotel is perched on the rim of a caldera, made by a massive volcanic eruption over 7,000 years ago! The scenery is even more stunning, when you know how it was created. Glad It's Here Don and I have stayed in about 10 National Park Lodges. This one has had a more troubling history than any of the others. Evidently Crater Lodge was a total mess, when it was rescued from demolition, in 1989.  The lodge's initial opening in 1917, was more pitiful than grand. Construction wasn't even completed, when they opened their doors to guests. Serious construction flaws, along with money problems, meant the lodge never had its real heyday. It fumbled along for years. Arriving in 2023 Don and I arrived on a Friday in mid June. The stone and shingled exterior looked spotless.  Our visit was nearly 30 years after the reopening In 1995. It took 6 years of rehabilitation and reconstruction. The roof no longer sagged like it did in 1989. Lobby The lobby felt welcoming with the stone fireplace, Stickley (reproduction) chairs and the original bark-covered columns.
The floors were bright and clean, unlike 3 decades ago. During renovation, 22 different kinds of carpet were discovered. I'm trying to imagine all the smells during that removal. Ugh. The Great Hall All was peaceful in the Great Hall... in the early morning hours. When we arrived in the late afternoon, things were a little more hopping.  When I looked up at the 13-foot beamed ceilings and classic light fixtures, I tried to imagine how the interior looked when the weary lodge closed down before renovation. I read that there were bug zappers hanging and florescent lights.  With both visits, we were lucky to find seats near the grand fireplace. It helps to have a grand-toddler, who wakes very early! 1917 Over 100 years ago, the fireplace was also a favorite gathering area.  Although the interior looks massive and sturdy in this old photo, the hotel structure was doomed from the beginning. The light wood-frame construction of the lodge, never held up to the elements.  The stones of this fireplace were numbered for reconstruction, before they were taken apart. Charlie Explores It was nice that Don and I had our stay a week earlier. We knew what to expect when our energetic 2-year-old granddaughter was introduced.  It's a little nerve-wracking having a toddler near an enormous fireplace opening. There was no fire screen. And the 2 squirrel andirons seemed to be luring her closer. Luckily the crackling heat warned all of us, if we stepped too close. Smokey Bear and More Squirrels I told Charlie we should go on a hunt for some other squirrels and a Smokey Bear or two. We found Smokey next to another fireplace, which wasn't lit.
We found a couple lamps with carved squirrels! I now notice that Charlie and the squirrel are striking the same pose... only the squirrel is holding a nut, not a pacifier! Stairs! Unlike some historic lodges, we did have elevator options. But the stairs were curious and offered good exercise.  One set of stairs looked like something out of an old hospital. Very sterile!  The bark-covered stairs in the corner of the Great Hall were charming. As was the little game table with log-and-twig chairs. The stairs were actually quite a workout for some of us, not used to an elevation of over 7,000 feet.  I'm sure the plexiglass-glass was added in the last renovation. I appreciated the addition, when I took Charlie on Climbing Missions.  My mission was to tire Charlie out a bit, so she might sit a spell with us! She loved to explore and was not too interested in sitting in a chair for very long. And how could I resist, when for the 20th time Charlie asked, "Grandma, I wanna climb stairs please?" Sitting Options There were numerous little gathering areas in the Great Hall. The Mission style furniture fit the decor. Unlike some antique furniture, it happened to be comfortable.  After our stair-climbing, Charlie was happily lured into a comfy chair, with a fruit bar.  Our little group settled into a cozy area, while other families gathered nearby, with their kids and crayons and books. I didn't see anyone looking at a cellphone! Such a pleasant, homey atmosphere.  Charlie didn't stay seated too long, but she was thoroughly entertained with scarves... and her Baby Yoda...  And when Buster brought us some drinks from the bar, Charlie was quite delighted to have a new face in the mix.  Our cheery bar server told Charlie that he had a sister, with the same name as Charlie. Buster came back to check on us and was happy to snap our photo...  ...but he wasn't any more skilled than the rest of us, in convincing Charlie to remove her Paci. Rockers on the Veranda The Great Hall wasn't the only place with wonderful seating options.  The Veranda had a nice line up of rocking chairs, overlooking the lake.
On our first Friday visit, the rockers were all taken, until a large group headed in for dinner reservations. Then Don and I had a wonderful time rocking and taking in the view.  A week later, no one was fighting over the Veranda chairs. The weather had warmed to 69 degrees and there was a mosquito invasion. What a shame... but it was sort of comical watching from inside, as unknowing guests discovered the attacking pests! Veranda at Sunrise The Lodge Veranda offered impressive views at both sunrise and sunset, if you were willing to put up with bugs or chilly temps.  I got up around 5 am, to catch the sunrise on the first visit. I headed downstairs expecting to see no one, but there were a number of guests with cameras, in the wee morning hours.  No one was sitting in a rocking chairs, when the sun began to peek out. There were no voices, either. Just the sound of serious cameras clicking.  I stepped away with my cellphone camera. As soon as the sun hit the lodge, the photographers headed inside.
I could have had my pick of the rockers. I did for a moment... but it was cold! Dining at the Lodge The Lodge Dining Room has changed very little in a century.  Back in 1917, the tables were covered with linen, but that's about the only difference.  There were only a few tables with good lake views. Don and I didn't ask for one, when we made reservations the first time. The restaurant was packed. Don and His Fish We sat in the middle of the room and focussed on our food.  Don's expression looks skeptical, but he was actually very pleased with his steelhead filet.
I was sorry they no longer used the Crater Lake Lodge China, which I saw on display. But I did enjoy my salad and creamy broccoli-cheese soup. Not my usual choice for a summer dinner, but we were in a lodge, with snow outside! Dining With the Fam On our Friday evening with the "kids" we ended up with a great table next to the window.  It helped that we made reservations for 8:00. Most families were vacating tables. Sunset By about 9 pm, it was time to dash outside and take a quick photo.  Snow, lake, pines, pink sunset and not a single bite! Food? I actually don't remember what we ate. Sometimes that happens when I'm in good company.
I just remember that everyone was happy with their food and happy to be together. This was the first night on the road with our gang. Don and I were caravanning with Heidi, Jamie and Charlie, during their move to Texas. They were excited to experience Crater Lake, before moving away from the state. We were excited to get them back in Texas! Guest Rooms Making last minute reservations meant we took whatever we could get. On our first visit, Don and I stayed on the top floor, overlooking the lake.  Higher rooms usually have better views. But my exterior photo shows the shed roof dormers... which meant the higher windows were more restricted. Room 319 We headed down the hall wondering what our room would look like. National Park Lodges aren't known for luxury.  The hall looked a bit spiffier than many old lodges. No dark creepy lodge halls at Crater Lake. Cozy Room We really can't complain. The room was a decent size, with a comfy chair for Don's problem back. We had a queen bed instead of a double. There was a coffee maker and a bathtub. We've stayed in much tinier lodge quarters.  I was eager to get over to the window and take in the view! The scenery was indeed spectacular, but the height of the third floor window was tricky.  I felt like a kid, standing on my toes to look out. I opened the window and heard voices below, but couldn't see down. Finally I grabbed a chair and climbed up for a better view! 5:08 A.M. In the early morning, the window view was the most dramatic. A faint light woke me around 5 am.  I grabbed my phone and took this photo at 5:08! Then I tossed clothes and a jacket over my pajamas and ran downstairs to welcome the morning! Room 215 Our room was on the second floor, for our next stay. We have a little person in this picture to show the difference.  Charlie spent some time in Grandma and Pop Pop's room while her parents unloaded the car. Kids appreciate a good view as much as adults. No need for climbing chairs in Room 215!
The king bed was a welcome change, also. We had a regular tub, which was fine. Some have claw-footed tubs.
National Park Lodges don't do TVs. Who needs them, when you can stare out the window for your entertainment! Outside Time We didn't get any hikes in, on either visit. But we did some posing, with the lake...
... and with the snow!  Jamie and Heidi got in a quick selfie before we checked out.  Grandma managed a quick photo with Charlie, before we headed to the car! Good-Bye Crater Lake Both visits were way too quick, with not nearly enough lake time. I did absorb some facts though. Wizard Island is really a volcanic cinder cone! Crater Lake is 1,943 feet deep and holds 4.9 trillion gallons of water! The view across is 6 miles! I'll probably forget those fun facts, but I'll remember the notable stuff. What's Notable? We stayed in a lodge that was cleaner and fresher and sturdier than the day it opened in 1917. When we relaxed by the fireplace, it was hard to imagine the lodge in its decayed state, 30+ years ago.  I'll remember the feel of the lodge when it was empty and quiet, as well as when it was full of activity. It was fun to see families gathering, and solo guests reading and couples playing cards. It felt like the visitors were behaving like guests from 100 years ago!  So our memories will be a combination of cozy lodge & stunning lake. Both lake and lodge have amazing histories.
I'll remember that wonderful combo well. But honestly, I'll mostly remember that Don and I stayed twice... and enjoyed our time with family, twice as much! More Snowy Than Scary at This Oregon Lodge There was nothing spooky about the big lodge when we approached this past October.
We didn't see Jack Nicholson, grinning out any windows. We didn't see Shelley Duvall or Danny, escaping through the snow. The icy parking lot was kind of scary though. We weren't expecting snow in October. Two Years Ago I remember approaching the lodge 2 years ago, when we stopped for lunch on a trip. I was so excited to see the building that was depicted in exterior scenes, of the thriller, The Shining.  It was cool and sunny that day, but there was no snow. It was a little hard to imagine those frightening scenes that took place outside The Grand Overlook Hotel. October 2019 There was snow when we visited last month, but it was still too sunny, to be eerie.  We were at nearly 6,000 feet and it was in the thirties. The wind was whipping at our faces and the flags up on the viewing deck were flapping away.
The sun was working on the icicles and the wind was doing a job on the 750-pound "snow goose" weathervane! Entrance to the Head House I grinned as we climbed the steps to the iconic stone entrance. It wasn't really the movie connection that I was excited about. To me, it was the lodge's connection with WPA, that made the place exceptional! There was so much to see.
The carved panel in the huge door was just one artistic contribution made by hundreds of artisans, involved in the construction of Timberline. I couldn't wait to take it all in. Starting at the Bottom We checked in at the desk, on the lower level, then had a look at some of the displays about the hotel's construction period, from 1936 to 1938.  80 years ago, skiers must have been pretty excited when the grand lodge opened. They would have lounged on these "snowshoe chairs" in front of the fires. The curling andirons were impressive... made from recycled railroad rails!
The hexagonal fireplace continued up through 2 more levels. The "first floor" had ample sitting space around the fireplaces and near the windows. The upper floor had dining and bar tables, near the Ram's Head Bar. Lunch With View On our summer visit, Don and I had lunch on the circular balcony near the bar.
We had a stunning view of Mount Hood, with just enough snow for some August snowboarders. Mount Hood In October This time, we stepped out the back door and I posed very quickly for a photo with a much whiter, Mount Hood.  I look pretty relaxed here, but I was gritting my teeth and telling Don to hurry. It was freezing! Exploring Our room wasn't quite ready, so we did some wandering before settling in.
We checked out some of the murals and mosaics that were created by artisans over 80 years ago. Doors and Windows It's amazing to look at the completed hotel and to realize this was all created during the Great Depression. Hundreds of skilled and unskilled laborers, craftsmen and artists worked for nearly 2 years.
On our first visit, I made Don pose so I could show the amazing size of this door. This time, I studied the ironwork. The door knocker looked like something out of a haunted fairytale.
Some of the whimsical door and window shapes just made me smile. Don and I remembered the cute, pointy door from before. We were sad the little tavern was not open this time. Recycled Not only did the lodge project provide jobs, but it made use of recycled materials.
These wonderful carved newel posts (new term for me) were made from discarded utility poles. There were 19 different ones in the hotel and all of them had been smoothed and shined by appreciative guests. Just how many hands in 80 years? Barlow Room We didn't make good enough use of the Barlow Room, but it was one of my favorites.
This room made me feel like I was stepping right into the movie, Sun Valley Serenade. I wanted to wear a cute little Sonja Henie sweater outfit and play some pingpong... on the wooden table! Details We didn't hang out and play games, but I was happy just studying the sweet details that surrounded me.
The linoleum mural panels had a dreamlike quality. They gave me the same feeling I get, when I pick up an old worn, but loved family Christmas ornament. Calming Curtains Even the patchwork curtains hanging near the door seemed sort of calming, with their faded colors. So many of the fabrics in the hotel were handwoven or stitched.
I'm not sure what has been replaced and repaired over the years. But if I can't tell what's old and what's been replaced, then they're doing a remarkable job. Room 116 Our room was down a hall, with cozy paneling and another marvelously shaped door at the end.
We even had a wooden Privacy sign. Much better than those plastic things. Tricky Hardware We had 3 doors, including the closet and bathroom.
All had intriguing locks and handles. Cozy Space Our little room had lots of cozy wood and a cute retro phone.
The window faced the front, so no view of Mount Hood for us.  There was a sweet little desk if we needed to write letters. There was indeed stationary in the desk, next to an ice scraper for the car! We didn't end up needing that or the tiny (sinfully out of place) TV. Clean and Comfy The queen bed was surprisingly comfy. I liked the wool blanket accent.
The bathroom wasn't huge, but the pretty tile was spotless and the towels were thick and soft. View of Mount Jefferson Our room view would have been a little better if we'd been on the floor above.
We could see Mount Jefferson from our room, so I'll say that counts as a view! These photos I have to say, were not taken from our room.  The best view of Mount Jefferson was from the stone terrace on the second floor. I checked on the view a few times in the evening and morning.
It was a little too chilly for more than picture taking. But it was fun seeing the flags. Evidently, the flags represent the countries of the international staff that works at Timberline Lodge. Where to Sit? In the evening, Don and I wandered a bit, in search of cozy seating. We passed on the chairs, with woven rawhide seats.
There were a number of cute little nooks with couches or writing tables. By the Fire Seats by the fire were in demand, but there were 3 fires burning, so we lucked out.  I didn't get a photo of the fire tender and his cart of wood and tools. It's practically a full time job keeping the fires going. People Watching For a while Don and I sipped wine and enjoyed a few snacks, while watching people coming and going.  These interesting chairs, had built in side tables. Pretty handy! Morning at Timberline Morning came early, since we had some kind of pacing, floor-walker above us from 5 am on. (Another good reason to book an upper room) But I was happy to get up at dawn and explore a little.
Long before 7, there was a table set up for coffee, tea and hot chocolate. The fires were burning and a few little girls dressed in p.j.s were having a wonderful time with their Teddy Bears. Heidi I was pleased to meet 3-year-old Heidi. who posed with me briefly.
Heidi was lounging behind the front desk when I first spotted her. The young man working the desk said he remembered when Heidi first came to the lodge, 3 years ago. "She was as big as her head is now. She stepped out into the snow and disappeared!" Breakfast in the Cascade Dining Room Heidi wasn't allowed in the dining room, but Don and I headed in happily.  We had forgotten that we had booked a room & breakfast package. It was a nice surprise, when we were reminded by desk staff.
We didn't sit next to the fireplace, because there was no fire. We were told the winds were blowing in the wrong direction and it would be too smoky if a fire was lit. We did have a great table by the window, though. More views of Mount Jefferson! Buffet-Time Sometimes breakfast buffets are a disappointment, but this buffet was not! We had some fun options.  The Glacier Freeze Smoothie was an exciting way to start the day. The tricky salami slicer was a little scary for me! We ate well, then enjoyed a late check out and more fireplace lounging! What's Notable? Don and I have stayed at many state and national park lodges. This one ranks pretty high for coziness... which is what attracts us to lodges.  Besides being warm and cozy with all its stone and timber, the lodge staff was also warm and welcoming. I'm still unclear about the ownership of Timberline, but it felt like things were run well.
Mostly, I will remember the views and the amazing WPA creations that filled the lodge. I have a feeling we will be back! Cloudcroft, New Mexico We arrived on Friday afternoon, last September. Don and I were nearing the end of our month-long road trip.
We had heard about this village from friends who once owned a home here. It was hard to believe this town of less than 700, sitting at 8,600 feet, surrounded by the Sacramento Mountains and Lincoln National Forest, was really in New Mexico! The Newer Lodge We drove up a quarter mile from the sign and found this curious lodge sitting on top of the slope.  Originally a log constructed lodge was built in 1899 to house loggers, I guess. By 1908 a fancier lodge was built, mostly for travelers coming to escape the Texas heat. That one burned in a fire and the current lodge was built in 1911. What To Do? There was a horseshoe pit and a volleyball net, below the pond. The weather was cool and gloomy when we arrived, so no one was making use of those options.
But there were a number of guests unloading golf clubs. I don't care much about golf anymore, so I would rather go back to 1911, when there was dancing in the pavilion and tennis courts and bowling and burro rides for the kids. Lobby Lounging The small lobby desk was bustling just inside the door.  So was the gathering room with the copper-lidded fireplace and stuffed beasts, above and beside the hearth. Mezzanine The crowds dispersed (off to the golf course) and I could manage a few photos without men in sweaters, greeting one another with loud voices and handshakes.  Nice guys, I'm sure. I just hate it when I feel like we're crashing someone's private party. There seemed to be a lot of groups. Finding Our Room The decor in the lobby area reminded me too much of a Texas Ranch House. I was excited to head for our room and see some proof that our hotel was over 100 years old.  We passed the gift shop (which had some fun stuff, actually) and I was delighted by the set of windows with layers and layers of shiny varnish. Up, Then Down I had to stop and just stare at the worn wood on a few steps down to a lower hall.  Could one ever come close to calculating the number of shoes that have worn down that wood? Stairs and a Window We paused in the hallway, which was filled with wonderful history and news clippings and then made the hike up the red stairs to the second floor.
It's nice they had a landing with a pretty window, in case you need to disguise your exhaustion by pondering over the pretty glass design. I wasn't quite used to the altitude, so I was huffing and puffing. The Hall There wasn't anything too special about the hall, but we were down at the end on the left.  It wasn't exactly the hall from "The Shining", but there was a resident ghost named Rebecca. So I kept an eye out. Room 225 We had a brass Thank You For Not Smoking reminder on our door. I laughed at first, since it looked antique. But we all know that people smoked wherever they wanted in 1911.
Then again, maybe not here. The Cloudcroft area was a big retreat for those suffering TB and other health ailments. Who knows. Surrounded in Pine Don and I were thrilled to luck into a corner room.
There wasn't much of a view, since we couldn't see past the pine branches. But I was fine with that! A Very Cozy Room We are used to small rooms, small beds and baths. If you like historic hotels, you expect it.  But since we were not in a huge touristy area, I thought $154. was a little high for a room of this size, that hadn't been renovated in some time. The Perks I appreciated the coffeemaker and the ice bucket, glasses and cups. But we hardly needed the big phone.
There was so much crowded onto the dresser, they had to build a corner shelf for the TV. I could have done without that, too. In all truth, I really wanted to declutter the tiny room. All Don ever wants besides a bed is a suitcase stand and all I need is a nightstand and lamp. Odd Bathroom Our bathroom had a feisty pocket door that wouldn't really close. At least we had a door. We've dealt with curtains, and shutter screens and all sorts of oddball privacy inventions in aged hotels.
There was no tub, which is fine. And at least the oddly shaped vanity, had a bit of space to unload your toiletries. But what cracked me up, was having 3 framed "antique" paper fans. Each one had the exact same image. Was there a sale on hand fans? A Fine Bar Rueben was a delight as he served us at the "certified" Brunswick bar. Supposedly the carved bar once belonged to Al Capone. There were some other characters seated nearby and we chatted with many.  There was a young man who seemed homesick and giddy when he learned we had a son who shared his name. There was a curious, but bossy older woman with amazing stories of her grandmother, the concert pianist and her father who cured the poor... but when she began to rant on about how her father tried to throw LBJ in jail for corruption... Don and I decided it was time to go explore the tower! Tower at Sunset Rueben encouraged us to get the key from Kelly at the front desk and hike up for the view. I raced up the stairs, scared I'd miss sunset and practically had a heart attack.
I hadn't noticed the altitude until I stopped at the first level. I gasped and laughed at the leather "recovery chairs" that seemed to be put there for people like me. Just in Time! We paused not too long, before continuing up to the last level.  The funny shaped windows gave us a better view, over the trees to the mountains beyond. And straight up we could see the light from the cupola windows.
There was also a sign, reminding us to refrain from carving our names into the wood wall. Which is pretty funny because when Judy Garland visited long ago, she carved her name, as well as another special guest, Clark Gable! Window View I couldn't believe no one else was racing up the stairs to take in the view with us.  What a perfect sight. I still could not believe I was seeing this view, in New Mexico! A Dinner View Earlier, I had peeked into the dining room to see what the seating options were.  From looking at old photos, I could tell that this dining area by the windows, had once been the porch. What a wonderful view. The Original Dining Room We made reservations for 8:00, in hopes that the dining groups and families would be finished up by then.  It was quiet when we walked through this room, but the piano player was still performing... on the platform between rooms. Next to Rebecca It was dark when we were seated down in the corner, past the stained glass image of Rebecca, the hotel ghost. It turned out to be the coziest table we could have hoped for.
And after weeks of travel and chitchatting with strangers (which we mostly love) we were ready to hide out in a corner and dine. Unless Rebecca got chatty! Perfect Feast My photo expression is more than odd, but I was delighted with our dining experience. Not only was our space cozy, but we had comfy wicker chairs with hefty cushions.
First off, the salad & bread was heavenly. My Veggie Pasta Alfredo, with thick noodles and green chiles was pure comfort. Don's pecan crusted salmon with asparagus and rice, tasted as good as it looked. And our young server Leigh had sweet stories of raising her small daughters in the Cloudcroft world... which sounded sort of like fictional, Mayberry. Cold and Sunny We slept well despite the fact Kelly at the desk had apologized the night before, "Oh, I'm afraid your room doesn't have heat, but I can get you a space heater and more blankets!"  It got down in the thirties, but we were fine. We hiked in the morning and ended up sitting in the back of the hotel as the day began to warm. Coffee and Coats There was complimentary coffee in the morning and we took it out by the pool and watched a cute family playing catch on the lawn.  We were still full from dinner, so we shared a day-old muffin, before packing and moving on down the road. What's Notable? As we headed down the drive, I felt like I hadn't had time to figure this place out. It felt like a retreat/resort that families or golfing buddies return to year after year.  Not that everyone knew each other, but I felt like we were the only first-timers. Mostly I'll remember the isolation of this odd building up on the hilltop. If the weather had been more ideal I would have really craved a porch!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
August 2026
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