Guest House in Rome Don and I knew we'd have less than 24 hours in Rome. I didn't search for a dream hotel, but we ended up with a fabulous stay in a guest house. It had a curious name and a huge door! Tridente Suites sounds a little like Embassy Suites, or something American. But the door of our 6-room hotel, looked like nothing I've ever seen in a chain hotel. The guest house was named for its location. The Trident is a complex of 3 streets, that begin near each other and fan out to the south. (Think of Poseidon's 3-pronged trident spear... not the gum!) Behind the Doors It was around 3 pm, when our Uber dropped us off at the Piazza del Popola, where the 3 streets begin. We walked less than a minute down Via del Corso, which is the middle one. The pedestrian passage was bustling, but we easily spotted the giant doors to our hotel. They were wide open. The hall looked fresh and clean, but vaulted ceiling gave away the building's age. So did the inside of the giant doors, when they were closed! I don't know the age of the 5-story building, but it was connected to a nearby church. I believe it once served as a monastery. Elevator Cage A woman in an office at the end of the hall, pointed us towards the elevator. We only used the traveling cage twice, to carry our luggage. There was just enough room for 2 carryon bags and one person. Stairs to Where? We were up one flight of marble stairs, so it wasn't a big hike to get to the floor that held Tridente Suites. I wondered what else was housed in the historic building. We were told that a music school was on the level above us. I hoped we would hear some music, but the guest suites were very soundproofed. Lobby Our host Sarah spotted us through the glass doors and buzzed us in. She was gracious and professional. The little sitting/lounge space also felt gracious and professional. There was nothing over the top memorable about the nicely renovated and decorated lobby, but the hotel was just what we needed. A clean and safe place, where we knew we could get a good night's rest, before starting 2 weeks of travel. 194 Square Feet Sarah showed us to our room and I was excited to find it better than expected. We knew it would be small, but the space was set up well. And oh joy, there was a window with a view! The modern bathroom was spotless. I have memories of Italian hotels, from when I was a kid. Shared baths down the hall... chain pull toilets and bidets that gave me the creeps at age 11. But no worries with our bathroom! I especially enjoyed the heated floor and towel rack. Cozy-Comfy Our bed and pillows offered a great night's sleep and they even managed to squeeze in tables and lamps on both sides! The towels waiting on the bed were a bit fluffier than the ones from our last visit to Rome. From what I recall, The non-absorbent waffle style fabric worked more like squeegees than towels! This and That There was a decent sized TV, that we didn't use and a tea kettle that we did use. Don was happy to put the luggage rack to use. And I was pleased with the well-mounted mirror. I was still jolted by the fact that our mirror, (triple the size of this one) had fallen from our bathroom wall the night before we flew to Rome. New appreciation for good mirrors! Plus, I needed to see just how wrinkled my clothes were after traveling for about 20 hours. Good enough for getting out to explore! Windows I was so excited about our window. We only had one, but it had shutters for closing out light and sound. Best of all, the glass panes could be opened, to let in the air and the festive sounds from below. Happy chatter from cafes... echoing footsteps... street musicians. The view straight across showed lots of windows. Good for snooping if you like that. But it was the view down, that was fun. Our Street - Via del Corso On Good Friday, the via below was busy with holiday crowds, moving in both directions. Via del Corso is the center of the 3 streets that make up the Trident. To the north, we could see Piazza del Popolo from our window. The large urban square is inside the northern gate, which was the main entrance to the city, during the Roman Empire. Piazza Del Popolo My eyes were drawn to the Egyptian obelisk in the center of the square. A nap was tempting, but I ignored my jet lag and headed down the via towards the Piazza. I know this is a blog about hotels, but somehow this piazza was an unexpected bonus! I think I'll always remember this festive area as part of the hotel. I had no idea it was so huge, when I'd looked on the map. More Popolo Here are a few more pics of the lively square, on a lovely Friday afternoon. (click for info) After wandering the Piazza, I headed up the stairs to the east and found an even better view. I think I was on some kind of jet-lag-giddy-high, when I climbed those stairs. The good weather and all the views were energizing. I started to head back, but suddenly realized how close I was to something that I hadn't seen in almost 55 years! Borghese Gardens At the top of the hill, I found the entrance to Borghese Gardens. I last visited the gardens in 1969. I was 11 and the gardens were magical. So on Good Friday 2023, I set off looking for things I remembered. (click image) I raced around the gardens absorbing all the colors and characters. It felt just like the sunny day that I remember with my family. I loved the statue and the funny horse... I loved the Sphinx-like statue on the stairs. I had meant to be gone less than an hour, but time got away. I raced towards the steps leading down to the Piazza. I made my giddy-self slow down a bit on the worn and slippery the marble. No need to start the trip with a sprained ankle. Twin Churches I headed back to Via del Corso. It was easy to spot, nestled right between the Twin Churches. Santa Maria in Montesanto (L) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (R) have almost twin names. But if you look closely you'll see differences. #4 Via del Corso Via del Corso runs from Piazza del Popolo, all the way through Rome to Piazza Venezia. Our building address #4, was a reminder of just how close the hotel was, to Rome's old entrance. I headed back to the giant doors, just in time to spot a couple musicians leaving. Twin cello cases, walking towards the Twin Churches! I wish we'd heard them practicing. Off Again While I was gone, Don had enjoyed a rest. He was ready to get out and explore. My feet begged me to give them a break, but I knew there were just too many wonderful places, just steps away. (click) We spotted all the above landmarks as we wandered on foot. We completely missed the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, which were even closer. The Vatican Our meandering got us to the Vatican by dusk. Seeing St. Peter's dome made me forget my weary legs. I was surprised to see the Vatican City so peaceful on Good Friday evening. I smiled to remember my glee at age 11, when my family visited and had a wonderful surprise. 1969 I remember it was a Saturday, when our family stepped inside and found crowds filling the cathedral. Suddenly we spotted Pope Paul, being carried on his ceremonial mobile throne. We had no idea what event was taking place, but we lucked out! The event ended shortly after we arrived and the exits were jammed with people. My family found a quicker way out, which took us to some lovely gardens. We didn't realize we were in a private area of the Vatican, until we had to pass the Swiss guards to get out. Oops. Dinner? Don and I wandered back towards the hotel, enjoying the positive holiday energy, filling the walkways. We heard no English anywhere. We stopped at Cafe Rosati, which I'd noticed earlier on the west side of Piazza Popolo. The patio tables had heavenly views of the Twin Churches and Piazza. We were dressed in the same clothes we'd worn when we left Texas, the day before. But, the lovely restaurant welcomed us and our first meal in Italy was perfecto! It was such a treat to walk just a few steps to our via, between the Twin Churches and know our bed was waiting. Morning We slept well despite crashing storms in the night. We woke to wet streets and sunshine. Perfect. I couldn't believe we had to check out early to catch our train. We had only booked one night in Rome, to allow for rest before our travels. We had wanted to avoid the crowded city, yet suddenly I didn't want to leave. Heading Off We had to cross to the east side of the Piazza to call for an Uber near the Canova Ristorante. I was sad we couldn't stop for breakfast. Like Rosati's, the tables had lovely views. But I was even more intrigued knowing the cafe had been a favorite of director, Federico Fellini. Next time!
What's Notable? I will remember our giant door and our comfy bed and the window overlooking Via del Corsi. Trident Suites felt clean and quiet and very secure. Not bad for $175., in Rome! But obviously, from my rambling write-up, my memories will mostly be about the magical location. I felt like I was stepping back in time, as memories surfaced throughout all our wandering. I honestly had expected to just rest up on our first night in Italy, but our comfy hotel allowed us lots of adventuring and some good dining, all within walking distance!
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A Notable Hotel Stay... Some Years Back In December of 2009, Don and I latched onto some cheap flights from Houston to Rome, so we planned a 3-day weekend trip! I attempted to find a bargain hotel for our stay and came up with Hotel Columbus. I couldn't believe I'd found such a lovely place, for under 100 dollars! The hotel was housed in what had once been a palace, commissioned by a well standing cardinal, who was a relative of Pope Sixtus IV! I was eager to find out! Oldest Building Yet The yellow structure on the left shows our hotel, which wasn't a hotel until 1950. Cardinal Domenico della Rovere began construction on the building in 1480. I'm pretty sure this makes Hotel Columbus, my oldest hotel experience. But equally impressive, is the location. The building faces Via della Concilliazone. It was just a short stroll down to St. Peter's and the Vatican City. The Other Direction If we went the other direction on the Via, we ended up at the River Tiber. Map Man Our flight arrived early in the morning. It was too early to check in, so Don studied the map, which made us look like tourists. He looks engrossed in the map in this photo, but he was also fretting about his dirty jacket... Earlier at the train station, (when we were not reading maps) a man pegged us as tourists. He seemed very concerned as he rushed over to help Don. He pointed out a huge blob of bird poop, on Don's jacket. Luckily we were pretty aware of pickpocket dangers, so we shooed the helpful man away. Days later, we learned there really is a thing called "Bird Poop Scam"... which is really white paint, that doesn't wash out. Finding the Entrance Although we were early, Don and I headed through the building's walkway to the parking area. We found a wall, fountains, a courtyard and the hotel entrance. Old and New I loved the old marble dragon fountain, with trickling water. The decorated entrance looked quite modern for a 500+ year old palace, that had once been a noble residence and seat of a line of holy knights! Christmas Trees We entered the lobby area, where we found the first of many Christmas trees. We knew it was hours before our room would be ready, but we explored a bit to find a restroom, where Don could go to work on his stained jacket. Le Colone Bar We passed through the quiet lounge and eventually found a washroom. Don had no luck removing the stubborn white paint. Bird poop would have been preferred. Later We left our luggage and took off for the day. When we returned, our room was ready and we were eager to explore some more. This was just one of the many grand rooms that once made up the Palazzo della Rovere. Dining in Style This two-leveled space, with vaulted ceilings and frescos, was the hotel's formal dining room. During our short stay, we didn't get a chance to dine, but the tables looked terribly romantic, with white cloths and glowing lamps. Carved Doorframe This doorway was impressive enough, with the carved marble frame and hefty wooden doors. Even the floor was intriguing. But once inside the room, the real surprise was directly above us. Ceiling A few sconces lit this dramatic space with paintings in gold frames. But the ceiling above was the real focus. The shape itself was stunning. The frescoed ceiling was the work of Francesco Salviati. The image of Apollo with his chariot and horses was at the very top of the curved ceiling. A carved mask peeked out from each corner! I wish I could have asked these odd little faces to tell me some stories. Up We Go We headed up to the top floor to find our room. This sweet little nook was near our room. Our Room I failed to make a note of the room number, but I'm pretty sure our room was the least expensive, on the top floor. Our low bed with flat pillows, took up most of the space. A desk and TV were not really needed, but the window was the prize. The shutters made me feel like I was living in a fairytale. The View The wooden chair in the corner, made me want to take a seat for hours at the window. The tiny window had a great view of the courtyard below, but my eyes were drawn to the tile roofs and beyond. Cupola! There it was! The cupola of St. Peter's! I remember being 11 and counting the steps as I climbed inside the dome with my family. More Details With the camera, I could zoom in on little details... designs near the window and a metal cross above a pointy roof. On the Roof I loved being able to open the window, so I could feel like I was sitting on the clay tiles, peering down at the treetops. What's Notable? The hotel made us feel like we were spending the night in a museum. How odd to walk through such grand rooms without being followed by guards. But the hotel room was really my favorite part of the stay. That tiny window brought in the sounds of pigeons cooing and the chiming bells of St. Peter's! What a treat, to watch the sky change colors in the evening... then to watch the silhouette shapes appear... and then the stars. I think I might need to revisit this hotel!
Spring of 1969 I have fond memories of this beautiful red and green hotel from when I visited, in 1969. I also remember hating it, before I loved it. That's how I was at age 11. But something happened in the next few days. Venice did its magic. My siblings and I were let loose to explore on our own. If we weren't climbing up bell towers or feeding pigeons in Piazza San Marco, we were playing on the bridge in front of our hotel. (I do remember a terrifying moment, when a college student friend, teased my brother by hanging him over the canal!) By the time my family arrived in Venice, we had been living in Florence for 4 months. Those first days, adjusting to our new world in Italy, were far behind us. All 6 of us spoke some Italian... some better than others. I was used to old buildings and cheek pinching Italian grandmas and even the occasional old man, who might swat me with his cane. By May, I adored Italy and I was thrilled to be heading with my family to the city of canals, the place I had only dreamed about! But by the time we arrived at the canal side hotel, I was as moody as I'd been those first days in Florence. The ride on the canal bus had been jolting. The stench from the murky water had me on edge, even before I started spotting trash and debris. The sight of a dead kitten floating by, did me in. When we reached our hotel, I was sulking. The room seemed dark and claustrophobic. There were no high ceilings, like everywhere else in Italy. The Mood Lifts! I began to love our cozy hotel room and especially the window! We kids had some fun, trying to communicate with the boy in the apartment, directly across the canal. I loved the sounds that came filled our hotel room from below... voices echoing, gondoliers singing and even the occasional splash, of trash being dumped from a window. (For some reason, this didn't alarm me) By the time we packed up and said good-bye to Hotel Splendid, I claimed Venice was my favorite city in the world. And to this day, if I catch a whiff of a certain sewer-like smell, I sigh and proclaim, "Smells just like Venice!"
Update: It looks like Hotel Splendid is still going strong, since our stay 50+ years ago. The exterior is still brick red, but the interior has gone totally upscale. How I would love to go back and stay in one of their luxurious rooms and open the windows to watch the canal activity. The water has been cleaned up, so I wouldn't be able to enjoy my favorite smell. But, I think I'm okay with that! Florence, Italy 1969 I was 11 in 1969, when my family lived in Florence for a half year. Pensione Ducale, was my family's home for a few days, before we found an apartment. The only image I have that shows the hotel, is in an old postcard, showing an Easter celebration. It's one of the buildings, to the left of the exploding cart! Memories of Pensione Ducale Reading my old diary, I was reminded of my initial reaction to Italy and our hotel. My words describe our family of 6, traveling in two taxis to the hotel, with all our luggage... finding the elevator that looked like a cage... traveling upwards in search of our hotel host. I remember doing a lot of moping, in our hotel. It was January and I was always cold. The building was old and there was no pool, like Howard Johnson's. I was jet-lagged and grumpy. Mom said it was "culture shock" when I complained. The room I shared with my 3 siblings, had ridiculously high ceilings and it was drafty and dim! Noise I wasn't used to city noise. I could hear pigeons cooing, non-stop honking, hissing buses...
At meal times in the dining room, I felt like Gretel, being fattened up for some evil purpose. The very sweet hotel hostess, kept bringing course after course. I was okay with pasta and bread, but I had no appetite for the antipasti and salad and veal with vegetables. I couldn't make her understand that all I wanted was some spaghetti. Oh what I wouldn't do for all those courses now! The sounds were never blocked, even though we had massive, wooden shutters. I complained about the bathroom down the hall. Not only did we share it with strangers, but it had a funny chain that had to be pulled for flushing... and what was with that other funny toilet? I had never seen a bidet. Cheering Up After the first day, things got brighter. I began entertaining myself with ballet performances in front of the wardrobe mirror... until my siblings teased. I started to love the window. We opened the panes and let in the chilly air, with all the sights and sounds and smells. I also spent some time eavesdropping through the wall. I couldn't understand much Italian, but I loved the dramatic hollering of the young woman, who must have been on the phone. There were lots of Mama Mias and that made me laugh! Back to The Pensione I may have grumbled about the Pensione, during those first few days in Italy. But, I had nothing but praise a few months later, when we returned to our guest room on Easter morning. The gracious hotel hostess invited our family, to enjoy the most spectacular view of the annual festivities. Once again we looked down from those grand windows. This time we were entertained by the crowds, music, flags and finally, the dramatic explosion of the Easter cart! 45 Years Ago It's been many years since I sat in that dark hotel, trying to adjust to Italy. I returned to Florence in 2003 with Don and our two teenagers. I had hoped to stay in the old Pensione, but we couldn't figure out where it was. Update! I've added a photo from the internet, after learning that the Pensione is now a B&B! Thank you to Ken, who shared his memory in the comment below. I hope to return one day to Florence and stay at the old Pensione... now called, Palazzo Ruspoli!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
December 2023
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