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Lucky Find! Last October, Don and I stumbled across this hotel, not far from Rome's Piazza del Popolo.  It was a very lucky find, because we'd just spent a night at a dreadful hotel and we were eager to change. Via della Fontanella We found the hotel while wandering on our first morning in Rome. The cobblestone street was more like a charming alley, with lots of pleasant activity.  We spotted the modest entrance and assumed it was a small boutique hotel. But Hotel Valadier actually occupies the entire block. Unique Interior It was 9:30 am when we stepped inside. I turned back to look at the unusual door design, between two display windows. Hard to believe this had once been a 17th century townhouse.  I stood back while Don stepped down into the lobby to inquire about rooms. Mirrored Lobby I studied the small lobby from above and questioned the size. The mirrored walls played a crazy trick on my eyes.  The woman at the desk said there were rooms available that morning. The price was quite decent, so we dashed back to the other hotel and returned with bags. When we arrived the doorman placed our bags around a marble statue at the bottom of the stairs. I laughed again at how those crazy mirrors made it look like our suitcases had multiplied.  I didn't laugh so much at the marble copy of Rape of Sabin, displayed at the top of the stairs. Art often focusses on disturbing stories. Rome is filled with art... Labyrinth The hotel staff was very gracious and turned us over to a kind bellman who guided us to our room. What a comical journey it was. Even with guidance, I felt like we were sloppily navigating the tricky passages within a haunted cruise ship.
There were many ups and downs. I tried to memorize the marble sculptures... so they could work as breadcrumbs to help me find my way, later.  After some twists and turns we reached darker halls with glossy walls and more mirrors. It felt like a spooky fun house. I was tempted to walk with outstretched arms to avoid bonking my face. There were a couple of elevators, sort of hidden in the wall.  We fit into this one, but a tinier elevator could not hold 3.
The elevator beside the dramatic sculpture, opened to more art. We got to enjoy a mosaic show, as we traveled. Connected Building The tiny box lifted us up one more floor. After a bit more walking, we came upon a double set of wood doors. We were evidently in a different wing of the hotel. Far, far from the lobby.
And then we found our room. #212! An Easier Route Our sweet bellman opened the door to our room, then insisted we follow him back down. He wanted to show us an easier route, that avoided the lobby. Our journey ended when we stepped out onto a different street. Via Del Corso! What a wonderfully charming street!
Before leaving us, he directed us how to unlock the large wooden doors, beneath the balcony. I looked up to be sure I would recognize this mystery entrance. And there it was, the balcony to our very room! Retracing Don and I retraced our steps, back to our room.  The large door from the street opened to a dim hall, with another marble friend. We greeted the shy statue and turned right. A small gate opened to another room.  Once through the gate, we had the choice of elevator or stairs. The marble stairs seemed quicker and safer.
After a small climb we found the 2 doors that led to the hall with our room. The sign "Corso 12 Rooms & Suites", helped to remind us. At Last! We stepped into our guest room and laughed about the amusing maze we had just experienced. Now we had time to settle in, for 3 nights.  The room was spacious and clean and comfy. There were a few funny flaws. The table and chair combo was handy, but Don's knees didn't exactly fit.
The bathroom was just fine, with robes and a decent shower. The mirrored was just right for Don, but a bit high for my 5 foot 2 height.
I could barely see my teeth while brushing them. The quilted headboard was a tiny bit worn, but the bed was comfy and having 2 nightstands always pleases me.
Studying the wood beams in the ceiling made me so curious about the history of the building. The Hotel Valadier is not a terribly old business, so what was in this building before? Who slept or worked here 1 or 2 centuries ago? Was there art on the walls?  If there had been a couch, I'm sure it didn't look like this one. But I was happy to have it (and the closet nook) for organizing our stuff. We'd been traveling for 16 days, so we made good use. Via Del Corso I was thrilled having a view of Via del Corso. Not just a window, but a balcony! I could step out and look at Piazza Del Poppolo, to the right.
Again, our balcony was just above the impressive door. Our room may not have been close to the lobby, but it was very convenient being able to come and go, with our secret door. Balcony View Via del Corso is an entertaining street, with mostly pedestrian traffic. We could peek out and watch activity below...
...or we could watch activity across. This guy could shave, smoke and read his phone, at the same time! I loved the sounds in the day. Voices echoing, horses clip clopping, Children on Halloween evening, trick-or-treating at the shops below. And quiet, in the morning. Off to explore... When not exploring Rome, I had fun exploring the hotel. The Ladies Room was quite amazing.
I spotted the pink flowers and The Three Graces, first. Then I noticed a glass door just beyond. Frosty dancers on the glass! It seemed odd to have a clear-ish door to a restroom. I stepped inside.
The ultimate Powder Room, with lounge space. The gold-framed mirrors along with a mirrored ceiling, had me turning in circles like a happily confused kid, playing in front of dressing room mirrors.  Such an impressive room! Luckily no ladies, so I could snap photos. Piano and Sleeping Jag Next I wandered into the Pianobar Valadier. Or so the sign told me.
There was a red and black grand piano. The spotted jaguar that lounged on top, seemed to match the drawing on the sign. I couldn't decide if he looked funny or creepy. It was the end of October and the hotel was playing up Halloween. There were lots of cobwebs and spiders along with modern art.  We never saw any music in the piano bar, but Don and I made use of the quiet space few times.  The Halloween decor disappeared on November 1, so I was able to get some less cluttered photos.  This little sitting area intrigued me. I nicknamed it the Stairway Corner. The red stairs shown in the artwork, were obvious. The black stairs in the corner were less so. How odd to see the artsy-black stairway, from the underside. They led to the hotel's Valentyne Lounge. Getting Lost Some More I left Don in the room resting an ailing foot on ice, while I got lost looking for the restaurants on upper floors. Lots of steps and backtracking. Just as well he stayed back to rest.  After passing so many traditional marble statues, I began to spot some curious figures. The hotel's finer dining areas seemed to play up a bolder, more modern look. I tried to peek inside the Moon Asian Bar, but it was closed. Hi-res Terrace Lounge On the rooftop, I found Hi-res, the trendy restaurant and bar, with panoramic views of Rome.
During the morning hours it served complimentary breakfast! 3 Breakfasts The spread of food was quite decent and the views were equally satisfying. People watching was pretty entertaining as well. I chatted with a Russian woman in a fur coat one morning. A blond woman from Romania, (who'd been very tipsy the night before) giggled with me about how her husband broke a doorknob. Night Life We visited Valentyne's Club a couple times during our stay.  I noticed it early on, when exploring the lobby.
We found the outside entrance on the first evening, when hotel manager DuDu was chatting with us outside. (DuDu btw, was hands down the best of the hotel's outstanding staff.) He was an enthused greeter outside in the evenings and he also was a very gracious guide when he escorted us up the red stairs to Valentyne's. "If you like jazz, you will love the club!" he insisted.
Our best conversation with DuDu was one evening while waiting for an Uber. He warned us they were going to close the street soon, because an important person was coming to dine. (a European President, we learned) We had to congratulate DuDu for his patience as we watched him handle a rather tipsy lady who refused to move her car. She waved away help and fumbled to pull about 8 Louis Vuitton bags from her trunk... none of which had been closed. Her wardrobe was scattered on the cobblestone. Even the police could not hide their amusement. Drinks & Jazz Don and I were the oldest guests at Valentyne's, both evenings.
The atmosphere was swanky and the drinks were fun... I had a glass straw!  I also enjoyed the assortment of salty treats that came with our drinks. Brillo Besides the rooftop restaurants, we had one other dining option. The entrance to Brillo was just beside the hotels main entrance.
Cafe tables were set up outside from breakfast on. Inside Dining Most preferred to dine out, but we were happy for an inside table on Halloween night. The restaurant was quiet, but welcoming at 10 pm.
The prices were surprisingly reasonable, for being in such popular location.
The Margherita pizza was excellent! And our server efficient and fun. Especially when Don dropped his wallet and our waiter playfully thanked him for the gift! "Granite & Gelati" We stepped outside after our pizza and pondered about one more food option at our hotel. The glowing window with colorful gelato looked inviting.
We decided to wait for the next day. Our last day in Rome, I finally got close checking off one more thing I had hoped to do in Rome. I reached for my cone, topped with a cookie wafer and Don and I walked to some stairs.
I had hoped to enjoy a cone while sitting on the Spanish Steps, just like Audrey Hepburn, in Roman Holiday. Those steps were a step too far, for my drippy gelato. Instead I sat on the steps of Santa Maria del Popolo. This beautiful little church just steps from our hotel, offered the perfect spot for people watching! Perfect! What's Notable? Our 3 nights were perfecto. The location was ideal. We could walk to Borghese Gardens, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and even the Vatican. But the nearby streets were charming, with appealing shops and cafes. No need to go far.  Besides location, the hotel felt like a classy ship, that contained all the food, drink and music we needed. Standing on our little balcony also felt like ship. I was entertained by the ever-changing scenery, just like the view from a cruise. I loved the crazy mysterious maze feel of the hotel, once I got used to it. And I loved our isolated room where we never heard another neighbor. I'm sure other parts of the hotel were more luxurious or upgraded, but for our price the room and hotel was a steal.
I would gladly stay again.
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A Palace! For our first visit to Portugal, Don and I booked 3 nights at this lovely palace!  Well... a palace-like hotel, in a very grand building. Can you spy a crown and 2 griffons?  The 6-story building, renowned for its Belle Époque, Louis XV, and XVI style, was always a hotel. My photo shows what must have once been the main entrance. From 1893 Way over a century ago, architect José Luís Monteiro was commissioned to design this hotel... worthy of the finest European aristocracy.  His hotel opened as The Grande Hotel Internacional in 1893. (name changed later)  It was built to have access to the grand Rossio Train Station, which he designed a few years before. Rossio Train Station This gorgeous station was right next door to our hotel. Supposedly there is a secret door on an upper floor, that takes you into the depot.  If only we'd arrived by train, like the elite travelers 100 years ago, we could have stepped through the horseshoe shaped arches and walked just a few steps to the hotel's entrance. Uber Arrival But we arrived by Uber and our driver was confused. After he dropped us at the wrong end, (where the pretty columns and griffons were) we rolled our bags past 11 shop windows to find the somewhat hidden entrance.
The entrance was tucked back into a cozy little parking court, between the hotel and train station. All was quiet and calm when we arrived. It was a complicated and comical puzzle of vehicles, at busier times! Classic Style We were greeted by two gracious doormen, before stepping into a lovely parlor.  The checkerboard floor, red velvet and crystal fixtures made me happy. I love when historic hotels don't go all modern on me. I loved the elegant, formal style. Grand Parlor The lobby desks were to the left of the entrance, but I was drawn straight ahead, to the Grand Parlor with its bright ceiling.   The classic decor made it easy to imagine interesting guests over the past 100 years. In 1937, Emperor Hirohito of Japan spent his honeymoon at The Palace.  During the Spanish civil war, the hotel was filled with refugees... the wealthy kind. The splendid rooms became a meeting ground for international spies, during the Second World War. Celebrities? I didn't see any famous folk when I peeked in during tea time. But I read about a few. I can picture ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev staying (and maybe dancing!) here. It's harder to picture the Beatles as guests, but I read that they were.  Pretty sure Martin Sheen stayed here in the '80s, because you can see him in scenes from "State of Emergency"... shot inside the hotel. One famous guest came to a tragic end after visiting Avenida Palace. Portugal's President Sidonio Pais was assassinated at the railroad station next door, in 1918. Happier Things After checking in with gracious and welcoming staff, Don and I took an elevator to our room where our bags had already been delivered.  The elevator was just fine, but oh how I loved the swirling stairs! We've been known to book a hotel, just because they have a dramatic stairway. (Hotel Bristol Palace in Genoa!) I had to pose with this one in Lisbon.
I also posed with my sister-in-law Karen, after she and my brother joined us on our second day. Dizzy! I told Karen to look up at the incredible staircase that connected the 6 floors.
Karen laughed that she needed to sit down, because it made her dizzy. I laughed... but I had to agree! Vertigo! I did climb the stairs a few times, to enjoy the view below.
There were some rewards along the climb...  Wonderful sitting areas awaited on each floor. 
There were comfy chairs and antiques to admire.  This display showed items that were once used in the hotel. Room 424 The hotel offered over 80 rooms, ranging from around $300. to over $1,000 for the Presidential Suite.
Don and I were thrilled to take one of the "affordable" rooms. Always happy if the bed is comfy and there are 2 chairs we can use! Booking a cheaper room meant we did not get a spectacular view.
But our window allowed us to admire the architectural details. And our room was pleasantly quiet, without street noise. Comfy and Calm Again, I loved the classic decor. The bed was soft and the colors were soft.  The striped wallpaper and fabric was appealing. The antique print above the bed, was somewhat oddly sized and placed. But I liked it.
Another calm focus was the ceiling above the bed. I liked resting and looking up at that fixture, glowing like a star. The desk area was a bit busy, with TV and a coffee maker. You can see the stripped wall reflected (along with Don!) in the mirror. More stripes on the lamp shades and chair cushion. I like stripes.
The mirrored wardrobe was handy, as well as attractive. It held a lot. There was nothing overly special about the bathroom, but I always appreciate a tub!
And the Molton Brown products were very nice and there was a wee bit of counter space. Some old hotels have none! Special Treats! I was pretty delighted to find a box holding 2 special pastries.
The note beside the box told us that our "Pasteis de Nata" pastries, were a Lisbon symbol. The egg custard tarts were a treat in the afternoon.  Each evening, there were chocolates beside the pillows... pillowcases with the wonderful hotel logo! Crown and Griffons We got to admire the hotel's logo many places throughout the hotel.  I found this golden version on some glass, on the second floor. Exploring We explored the second floor each morning before breakfast.
The elegant hallway made me wish I'd dressed in a long gown for breakfast. The first morning, Don and I discovered "The Nobel Room" on the way to breakfast.  We tiptoed around the yellow room, using hushed voices. But I believe the room was meant to be enjoyed. There were no guards shooing us out.
By the second day we made ourselves at home. At least for a photo.
I made sure to encourage Karen and Chris do a little posing, in front of the parted drapes. After all, they were the ones who guided us to this hotel, when we planned our 18 day trip. Royal Breakfast! Each morning we turned down another fine hall, to reach the entrance of the dining room. I wondered about that hidden door I'd read about. Was it near?
All 3 mornings, we were greeted by smiling staff and invited to choose a table. We always chose a table with a window, so we could enjoy the view we didn't have in our room.
Avenida da Liberdade was fairly quiet (and dark) at 7:30 am.  The avenue was much livelier at 10 am. Relaxed Formal Once seated, I didn't have to look far to spot the griffon/crown logo. It was on the table cloth and the chair backs and on very piece of china.
And nothing made me happier than this sweet face each morning.  A cappuccino smile! The breakfast options changed a bit each day, but there was always a huge selection of fruits and many choices for breads and sweets.
One serving table offered juices and smoothies and champagne. We never rushed breakfast, but I steered away from champagne. Caffeine was more helpful to move into each busy day.
I did NOT steer away from donuts and rolls and croissants and toasts! Bar/Lounge We made sure to check out the hotel bar, on our last night.  Don, Chris and I had the whole lounge area to ourselves at 9 pm. As hotel guests we were given complimentary glasses of Port. When in Portugal... drink the sweet wine that's made in northern Portugal!
I enjoyed a few sips and olive nibbles, before excusing myself to the Ladies Room. Ladies Room Adventure When I dined as a kid I loved taking nosy trips to the Ladies Room, I would return to the table with amusing details for my family. (a grumpy granny here and some velvet wallpaper there...) After visiting the powder room near the hotel bar, I had lots to report to Chris and Don
Finding the correct door was an adventure. No signs. Just 2 doors, each with a nearby framed print to examine for clues. I found that amusingly subtle. Powder Room for a Queen I stepped inside and knew I'd chosen correctly! The glamorous powder room had fresh flowers, cloth towels, gold trim and rosebud wallpaper.  A close look at my photo, shows some fun with infinity! The mirror near the sinks captures the mirrored wall behind me... and 5 more sink mirror reflections! An open mirrored door, reveals a toilet... and something else! Behind me, I opened the mirrored door with the glass knob and felt welcomed into a splendid little room with a toilet...
... and an alcove displaying a golden statue AND a bidet! Now why would we need a bidet in here? I laughed to myself and rushed back to the port-drinking gentlemen, to share my report. Chris was amused enough to go on his own restroom adventure. I thought he was going to report on the men's room, but he walked right into the room with the rosebuds. He agreed it was "mighty grand!" As our Grandma Daw would have said. My 10-year-old self was very amused by all of this! Location Besides amazing breakfasts and bathrooms, our hotel had a fantastic location. Baixa is the historic heart of Lisbon and our hotel was planted in a nicely flat and walkable portion. Restauradores Square (with obelisk and Lisboa sign) was just steps away.
There were hills and picturesque winding streets just above our hotel. (Ubering was an option) Across from the yellow sign, we spotted the 140-year-old tracks to Gloria Funicular. Sadly, a month before our trip the popular cable railway was closed due to a tragic accident, that killed 16. In October, the weather was lovely and the walkable areas felt lively and safe. The photos above show sights and scenes that were all within easy walking distance. No hills! What's Notable? Our stay at Hotel Avenida Palace was absolutely what I hoped for. It felt ritzy, without being intimidating. It let us pretend we were in a different time, while providing modern comforts. The staff was gracious and professional, but never stuffy.  We stayed in a classy, yet comfy historic hotel. The location and the helpful staff made it a great choice for first time visitors. Of course I'd be more than happy to stay again! I already have a list of all the things we would do next time!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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