Since 1925 in Southern Oregon Recently, Don and I had our first visit to Ashland and its historic hotel in the heart of downtown. The hotel is now Ashland Springs, but you can see the letters on the glass above the marquee. In 1925 was called Lithia Hotel. When we pulled up, this past October, the entrance to the old hotel was pretty grand, with golden eagles and bold marquee. 94 years ago when the luxury hotel opened, there were 100 guest rooms. Travelers heading back and forth, between the Northwest and California, enjoyed stays at the hotel. They also enjoyed the therapeutic Lithia Spring Waters of Ashland. Lithia Springs Hotel At nine stories, the Lithia Hotel was the tallest building between Portland and San Francisco. By the late 1930's, hotel guests could also enjoy the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, which is what the city is mainly known for today. By 1960 the hotel changed hands and tied into the Shakespeare theme, with a British Tudor appearance. I can't even picture that. When we pulled up, the hotel still seemed tall, standing on the corner, in Ashland's charming downtown.It looked like a big city hotel, minus the traffic and valet parking headaches. We headed around to the back, where we found ample free parking for guests. You don't get free parking in big cities. From the Back From where we parked, the back of the building looked very dramatic in the afternoon sun. Not many hotels have such impressive backsides! I grabbed my suitcase and took a peek over a fence, where I spotted a lovely courtyard, below. I read later, that the garden area once held a swimming pool, that was added in 1960, when the hotel became the Marc Antony... with its British theme. 2-Story Lobby It was about 3 when we headed into the sun-filled lobby. While Don checked in, I took advantage of the quiet space and snapped photos. I'm glad the owners who bought 20 years ago, did away with the British theme. There was still a formality, with the stained glass and the chandelier, but it felt relaxed. Comfy Touches There were lots of little things that made the lobby feel more homey. The fireplace was cozy and there were some pieces of furniture and decor that added some fun. My favorite piece was the oval, marble top table in the center of the lobby. I kind of liked the oddly shaped pumpkin and the purple arrangement, too! Nature Theme The British theme left years ago, but a new focus took over. I think the current Nature theme, is tied to the old hotel's connection with nature and the healing Lithia Springs waters. There were little "wonders of nature!" everywhere you looked. There was a bold looking eagle on the front desk and nature prints on the wall. There was a whole case of bird eggs, nests and a stuffed bird. Riding Up The elevator even offered a nature lesson as we traveled upward. I had a good time studying the elevator walls, which were covered with dried leaves and plants. That's a first! Our Room I didn't get a photo of our door, which I often do. But I did capture an image of the curious thing, mounted on our door. I thought it was a brass door knocker, until I saw another door with a note clamped down, by the tiny hand. How handy! Another first! Our room was cute as can be. It wasn't huge, but it was probably larger than the original rooms. Lithia Springs Hotel opened with 100 rooms in 1923. Now there are 70. Lamps and Prints The nature theme continued on our wall, with pretty framed herb art. I appreciated having 2 tables and 2 lamps in our tiny room. I liked the soft colors and the French style bed cover. There was a surprise up by the pillows. The gift was a little cloth pouch tied with ribbon. The note said it was "Lavender Bath Tea" and it smelled heavenly. It was made for hanging in the shower, or putting in a drawer. Much nicer and healthier than a pillow chocolate. Cozy Corners The rooms were small and every corner was put to use. The corner with the chair and lamp was so squished, it was sort of amusing. But I liked the nature themed lampshade and the view beyond the buildings was pretty. The small bathroom had been remodeled with newer pedestal sink and corner shower. The original floor tile was nice. Tea Time After checking out our room, Don and I made a dash up to the Mezzanine to enjoy the complimentary tea time. There wasn't too much going on, but we were happy to serve ourselves some tea and grab a cookie. We chose a table overlooking the lobby and did a little people watching. Enjoying the Town We may have missed Ashland's Shakespeare Festival season, (by one day) but we were just in time to see gorgeous fall colors! Walking through Lithia Park in the late afternoon sun, was heavenly. Tasting the bubbling mineral water from the public fountains was not heavenly! It was stinky and foamy. Honestly, I almost threw up from laughing and gagging at the same time! Evening We peeked in the hotel's restaurant earlier. The multi-layered space was inviting. The tables with cozy wicker and pillows, seemed very appealing. But Don and I kept it simple by sitting at the bar. We ordered martinis and a scrumptious artisan cheese board. Our kind bartender gave us lots of extra bread, when I raved about it! Morning I stepped out early to check on the morning. I often do that to try to snap a hotel photo, free of cars and people. There were no cars, but there was a truck. It was October and they seemed to be putting up Christmas lights already! I also noticed something I hadn't, the day before. Look at the sweet water fountain for pups. Yikes I hope it's not that bubbly stuff! Breakfast A complimentary breakfast was served upstairs and all the hotel guests seemed to arrive at the same time. Don and I were amused to see the room filled with people, all our age or older. The crowded room had one table left and it had a sweet pumpkin and nice view. But we decided we needed to get away from all those old people... who kept reminding us of ourselves. We found a quiet sitting area, near the garden patio. It was a bit too chilly for sitting outside, but we enjoyed the view through the glass. It was a lovely place to relax, before getting back on the road. What's Notable? Our hotel stay was filled with lots of classy touches, without a huge price tag. They did a nice job renovating this lovely hotel in recent years. I imagine during summer months (or Shakespeare months) this hotel and town might feel very different. But I will always remember the peaceful feel of our hotel (except at busy breakfast) and the ease of strolling in and out, to explore the park and town.
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More Snowy Than Scary at This Oregon Lodge There was nothing spooky about the big lodge when we approached this past October. We didn't see Jack Nicholson, grinning out any windows. We didn't see Shelley Duvall or Danny, escaping through the snow. The icy parking lot was kind of scary though. We weren't expecting snow in October. Two Years Ago I remember approaching the lodge 2 years ago, when we stopped for lunch on a trip. I was so excited to see the building that was depicted in exterior scenes, of the thriller, The Shining. It was cool and sunny that day, but there was no snow. It was a little hard to imagine those frightening scenes that took place outside The Grand Overlook Hotel. October 2019 There was snow when we visited last month, but it was still too sunny, to be eerie. We were at nearly 6,000 feet and it was in the thirties. The wind was whipping at our faces and the flags up on the viewing deck were flapping away. The sun was working on the icicles and the wind was doing a job on the 750-pound "snow goose" weathervane! Entrance to the Head House I grinned as we climbed the steps to the iconic stone entrance. It wasn't really the movie connection that I was excited about. To me, it was the lodge's connection with WPA, that made the place exceptional! There was so much to see. The carved panel in the huge door was just one artistic contribution made by hundreds of artisans, involved in the construction of Timberline. I couldn't wait to take it all in. Starting at the Bottom We checked in at the desk, on the lower level, then had a look at some of the displays about the hotel's construction period, from 1936 to 1938. 80 years ago, skiers must have been pretty excited when the grand lodge opened. They would have lounged on these "snowshoe chairs" in front of the fires. The curling andirons were impressive... made from recycled railroad rails! The hexagonal fireplace continued up through 2 more levels. The "first floor" had ample sitting space around the fireplaces and near the windows. The upper floor had dining and bar tables, near the Ram's Head Bar. Lunch With View On our summer visit, Don and I had lunch on the circular balcony near the bar. We had a stunning view of Mount Hood, with just enough snow for some August snowboarders. Mount Hood In October This time, we stepped out the back door and I posed very quickly for a photo with a much whiter, Mount Hood. I look pretty relaxed here, but I was gritting my teeth and telling Don to hurry. It was freezing! Exploring Our room wasn't quite ready, so we did some wandering before settling in. We checked out some of the murals and mosaics that were created by artisans over 80 years ago. Doors and Windows It's amazing to look at the completed hotel and to realize this was all created during the Great Depression. Hundreds of skilled and unskilled laborers, craftsmen and artists worked for nearly 2 years. On our first visit, I made Don pose so I could show the amazing size of this door. This time, I studied the ironwork. The door knocker looked like something out of a haunted fairytale. Some of the whimsical door and window shapes just made me smile. Don and I remembered the cute, pointy door from before. We were sad the little tavern was not open this time. Recycled Not only did the lodge project provide jobs, but it made use of recycled materials. These wonderful carved newel posts (new term for me) were made from discarded utility poles. There were 19 different ones in the hotel and all of them had been smoothed and shined by appreciative guests. Just how many hands in 80 years? Barlow Room We didn't make good enough use of the Barlow Room, but it was one of my favorites. This room made me feel like I was stepping right into the movie, Sun Valley Serenade. I wanted to wear a cute little Sonja Henie sweater outfit and play some pingpong... on the wooden table! Details We didn't hang out and play games, but I was happy just studying the sweet details that surrounded me. The linoleum mural panels had a dreamlike quality. They gave me the same feeling I get, when I pick up an old worn, but loved family Christmas ornament. Calming Curtains Even the patchwork curtains hanging near the door seemed sort of calming, with their faded colors. So many of the fabrics in the hotel were handwoven or stitched. I'm not sure what has been replaced and repaired over the years. But if I can't tell what's old and what's been replaced, then they're doing a remarkable job. Room 116 Our room was down a hall, with cozy paneling and another marvelously shaped door at the end. We even had a wooden Privacy sign. Much better than those plastic things. Tricky Hardware We had 3 doors, including the closet and bathroom. All had intriguing locks and handles. Cozy Space Our little room had lots of cozy wood and a cute retro phone. The window faced the front, so no view of Mount Hood for us. There was a sweet little desk if we needed to write letters. There was indeed stationary in the desk, next to an ice scraper for the car! We didn't end up needing that or the tiny (sinfully out of place) TV. Clean and Comfy The queen bed was surprisingly comfy. I liked the wool blanket accent. The bathroom wasn't huge, but the pretty tile was spotless and the towels were thick and soft. View of Mount Jefferson Our room view would have been a little better if we'd been on the floor above. We could see Mount Jefferson from our room, so I'll say that counts as a view! These photos I have to say, were not taken from our room. The best view of Mount Jefferson was from the stone terrace on the second floor. I checked on the view a few times in the evening and morning. It was a little too chilly for more than picture taking. But it was fun seeing the flags. Evidently, the flags represent the countries of the international staff that works at Timberline Lodge. Where to Sit? In the evening, Don and I wandered a bit, in search of cozy seating. We passed on the chairs, with woven rawhide seats. There were a number of cute little nooks with couches or writing tables. By the Fire Seats by the fire were in demand, but there were 3 fires burning, so we lucked out. I didn't get a photo of the fire tender and his cart of wood and tools. It's practically a full time job keeping the fires going. People Watching For a while Don and I sipped wine and enjoyed a few snacks, while watching people coming and going. These interesting chairs, had built in side tables. Pretty handy! Morning at Timberline Morning came early, since we had some kind of pacing, floor-walker above us from 5 am on. (Another good reason to book an upper room) But I was happy to get up at dawn and explore a little. Long before 7, there was a table set up for coffee, tea and hot chocolate. The fires were burning and a few little girls dressed in p.j.s were having a wonderful time with their Teddy Bears. Heidi I was pleased to meet 3-year-old Heidi. who posed with me briefly. Heidi was lounging behind the front desk when I first spotted her. The young man working the desk said he remembered when Heidi first came to the lodge, 3 years ago. "She was as big as her head is now. She stepped out into the snow and disappeared!" Breakfast in the Cascade Dining Room Heidi wasn't allowed in the dining room, but Don and I headed in happily. We had forgotten that we had booked a room & breakfast package. It was a nice surprise, when we were reminded by desk staff. We didn't sit next to the fireplace, because there was no fire. We were told the winds were blowing in the wrong direction and it would be too smoky if a fire was lit. We did have a great table by the window, though. More views of Mount Jefferson! Buffet-Time Sometimes breakfast buffets are a disappointment, but this buffet was not! We had some fun options. The Glacier Freeze Smoothie was an exciting way to start the day. The tricky salami slicer was a little scary for me! We ate well, then enjoyed a late check out and more fireplace lounging! What's Notable? Don and I have stayed at many state and national park lodges. This one ranks pretty high for coziness... which is what attracts us to lodges. Besides being warm and cozy with all its stone and timber, the lodge staff was also warm and welcoming. I'm still unclear about the ownership of Timberline, but it felt like things were run well.
Mostly, I will remember the views and the amazing WPA creations that filled the lodge. I have a feeling we will be back! On the Plaza, in Sonoma I remember spotting the Swiss Hotel a couple years ago. It was right across from the historic Plaza in Sonoma. Maybe I was just hungry, but something about the sign made me think of a Swiss chocolate candy bar! Porch Dining Or maybe the folks dining at the cafe tables on the porch, made me hungry. I chatted with a friendly gentleman and his pup. The place seemed very inviting. Garden Patio On that pretty fall day 2 years ago, Don and I were lured in for lunch. There were two entrances. We went through the doors, with martini silhouettes, under the windows. We eventually found the lovely garden patio and feasted on pulled pork sandwiches and spinach salads! Again This past October, Don and I returned to the Swiss Hotel. This time we had reservations for one of the 5 rooms. I was excited to spend a night in the building that had been home to Don Salvadore Vallejo, in the mid 1800's. From Home to Hotel The words on the sign stated, " Swiss Hotel Since 1909", but the Vallejo home became a stagecoach stop and hotel, long before that. The hotel had at least a couple names, but it was called "Swiss Hotel" by the time the Masstelotto family bought it in 1923. The 4th generation is running it today. Check In Jenny checked us in at 3. She was very helpful, giving us hints on everything from wineries to parking. Jenny let us know where the continental breakfast would be served. She said there were trays available if we wanted to enjoy eating on the veranda. She was very cheery, yet professional. I wondered if she was family. Lobby While Don finished up, I peeked around the lobby at old photos. There was a lone dining table in the front window, near an antique phone and clock. There was a cute little sitting area near the doorway to the dining room. I remembered from before, seeing that curious, square window/door between rooms. Dining Room I also took a look in the dining room, which looked welcoming with white cloths and roses. While looking at some of the old photos, I was approached by Dawn, who was delighted that I was impressed with the history. She also graciously handed me a fancy little flashlight. "Just in case." She told me, without a hint of worry to her voice. She explained that there was a chance Pacific, Gas & Electric would be turning off power in the night. Fire concerns... yikes. Up to Room 2 We headed for the hall where I spotted more photo covered walls... and an antique phone booth. I love phone booths. Our room was in the opposite direction. We passed through a doorway which took us to another hall. Was this a newer wing that had been added onto the back? Rats. I always prefer staying in the oldest part. But I was pleased, when we turned the key and walked into our own little entry, with 3 doorways. Homey Suite Our 3-room suite with its convenient vanity and contemporary art, felt more 1980's than early 1900's. But the space felt cozy-retro with angled ceilings and slanted floors. The sitting room was a nice surprise with windows overlooking the garden patio. It was charming in a simple down home, grandma's guest room way. I loved the grapevines that were trying to grow in the bedroom window! Chat at the Bar The bar was occupied by all locals when we arrived at 5. After a couple of days in touristy Napa and Sonoma, it was fun to be surrounded by people who knew one another, but were open to outsiders like us. Don and our bartender talked World Series for a while. When I asked friendly guy (so wish I remembered his name) where he was from, he pointed to a photo on the wall of his mom. He said he grew up in Sonoma and his mom worked at the bar. He had good memories of coming over after school for burgers. Ghastly Photos and Ghostly Occupants A couple at one of the tables asked if we were staying at the hotel. The woman offered to take our picture. My creepy (drunken) expression does not match my pleasant, relaxed memory. After taking our photo, the woman asked if we were staying in Room 5, which is evidently the most haunted. She said she'd had a friendly ghost encounter in the restroom once. "Some think the ghost is Freddy." She said as she pointed to a photo of Freddy the cook, in 1945. Cozy Bar Vibe On the wall, I spotted a photo of the old bar and compared it to one I took 2 years ago. It looks like little has changed in 4 generations. I was so delighted that the small gathering of folks made us feel at home. Sometimes Don and I feel intrusive, when we sit at a bar with regulars. Regulars and Celebrities I had a good time checking out some of the people photos that covered the walls. There were quite a few famous faces, like President Kennedy. Not sure how may actually visited the bar. My favorite photos were of the local celebrities. There were images of townspeople in aprons, in overalls... by a barber pole. I would love to know the stories behind these people! More Faces! Above the double doors, there were more faces smiling down! Don and I walked under those faces and took a peek through those doors to check for open tables. The cafe tables near the sidewalk were all full. To the Veranda So we headed to the porch upstairs, with it's long planks of redwood. Were those actual holes, patched with metal? The wind was beginning to pick up, as the sun lowered. There was an eerie feel in the air. We had heard from people in the bar that the schools had decided to close, in anticipation of the power outage. I was still a little confused about how this was going to help prevent the spread of the fires. We sat there on the porch, wondering... and remembering our lunch at the Swiss Hotel 2 years ago. The devastating fires of 2017, started up as soon as we returned home to Texas. Dinnertime By the time we headed back down to the sidewalk tables, it was dark. The tables were still full, but it was entertaining hearing all the local chatter. The diners all seemed to know each other, with lots of talk between tables. One woman owned a nearby winery. Some talked about worries over the power outage. A table opened within minutes and we sat at the quieter end of the porch. A nearby couple recommended the #2 Pizza, which was incredible. They shared their memories of the devastating fires 2 years ago and all the worries and complications. I knew that every person around us had stories. Glariffe! We were stuffed after our pizza, but determined to try the signature coffee-cocktail of Swiss Hotel. Glariffe, supposedly has some connection to Ernest Hemingway, but I don't know what. The frosty chilled sort of Irish coffee drink has a recipe so guarded that the recipe is kept in a safe deposit box. We heard that Starbucks wanted to the recipe and they were turned down. ?? We just got one and shared it like we were at the malt shop! It was smaller than we expected for $12. but plenty potent. Yum! Morning We headed up for bed, wondering if we would need our flashlight at some point. Our phones were charged and we were checking out in the morning. So no real worries. I woke after midnight when our room suddenly got quiet. The clock was no longer glowing. In the early morning I used the flashlight/lantern to get dressed and tiptoed downstairs. There were actually candles lighting the hallway and one, flickering inside the phone booth. All Well So Far I wandered around the Plaza and all was quiet. When I returned Dawn was busy getting the continental breakfast ready. She apologized that she couldn't make coffee. Don and I skipped showers and checked out early, to get on the road before traffic got worse. Cars were already backed up at non-functioning traffic lights. We felt lucky that the power glitch had only slightly inconvenienced us. What's Notable? Fire concerns will always be a part of our Swiss Hotel memories. It wasn't long after we left Sonoma that the Kincaid Fire began spreading and destroying hundreds of homes and buildings. Now that the fire is 100% contained, I can feel relief to know the town and our sweet hotel is safe... and focus on the good memories of our visit! Mostly I'll remember the homey feel of our historic hotel, bar and restaurant. Our hosts and servers were all gracious and welcoming, despite the worries they may have had. The locals were also friendly and entertaining. The building itself was charming with all its history and the location was hard to beat!
Hope to return! The Doc's California Resort! Over 10 years ago, I spotted Dr. Wilkinson's Lodge, when our family visited Calistoga for a wedding. We were staying elsewhere, but I remember the sign well. There was something amusing and wonderful about the glowing sign, announcing Mud Baths and Mineral Pools! Seeing the name of a doctor on the very top, made me very curious. This past October, we booked 3 rooms! Sweet Town Our recent visit to Calistoga was part of a reunion with our kids and spouses. I was happy that "The Kids" were game to give Dr. W's a try! The cute town was laid back and comfortable and more reasonably priced, than the towns of Napa or Sonoma. I doubt they have Harvest Hoedown BBQ celebrations in those wine country towns. Arrival Time It was around 6, when we headed into the modern looking building, covered in vines. Our group of 6 filled up the little lobby. I studied the old photos on the lobby walls and asked a few questions. Since 1952 The gracious woman who checked us in, had been working at the hotel for 20 years. She pointed out an old black and white photo and shared a little history about Doc and Edy Wilkinson, who opened the resort in 1952. She said the Wilkinson's son and daughter just recently sold the resort. I was sorry we missed the chance to actually meet members of the original family. I wonder how old the W. Kids were in 1962, when the lodge was spiffed up, with a second level addition. The vintage photo looks similar to my photo... minus the towering sign and palms. Off to the Rooms We were given our keys and headed through the courtyard to the stairs. The courtyard was a pretty handy gathering place. The next morning we sat at the tables and studied our phones, discussing strategies for caravanning to wineries. Motel Memories Our 3 rooms were on the upper level. Don and I rolled our bags towards Room 34. I felt like I should be lugging the red, youth-sized American Tourister suitcase I owned as a child. I would have really fit the scene, had I been toting my mom's old marbled-beige, Samsonite cosmetic case. I remember lots of motels like this from when I was a kid, but I remember no suitcases with wheels! Room 34 Above the number on our door, I spotted this little bathing image. Gotta love it! Would that be mud in the bathtub? Probably. Bargain in Napa Valley Our room was not the most deluxe or updated, but it's what I asked for. For less than $150. we had a room within walking distance of wineries and restaurants, in a charming Napa Valley town. I have no pics of the kids' rooms, but they were slightly more renovated. However, the youngins didn't have the awesome exposed brick that we had. Our host tried to put us in a room with less worn carpet and hidden brick, but Don and I always go for the vintage. No Tub 'O Mud Our bathroom was far from luxurious, but we did have bathrobes and a coffee maker and a wine opener. There was no tub for soaking... in mud or water. Just a shower stall. Hot Springs! Besides the location, our group was excited about enjoying what Wilkinson's is known for. Nearly 7 decades ago, Doc and Edy started making good use of the area's geothermal hot spring waters and the ancient volcanic ash. The signs gave us some ideas about options... mud, steam, mineral, massage, therapy, baths and COLONICS! Yikes. Soak Time Most in our group were up for about anything on the sign, besides the colon treatment. A mud bath experience would have been a highlight for me, but our time was limited. We decided to all head for the mineral pools, which was included in our stay. There were 2 outdoor pools, which looked a tiny bit less inviting in person. Just a bit worn. Following the Rules We headed for the indoor pool and had it mostly to ourselves. We could have misbehaved with some singing, or comical water ballet... However, the wall of rules was a bit intimidating. Some of the info was reassuring, though. There were phone numbers for the ambulance and the pool operator. We had a choice of 2 physicians that we could call. Luckily, no mishaps. Evening The weather was lovely in the evening. It was such a treat walking out the door and heading down a couple blocks to dinner. No driving and no parking. We dined outside near the river, with live music. Then we strolled on back to our lil motel. So easy. Morning I woke early to trash trucks the next day. So, took advantage and headed down the staircase for a little run. The old Spa Resort looked peaceful and lovely. However, I'm not convinced it was 3 times as better than our quirky little place. The cost would have been about that much. Maybe next time we'll splurge and stay there. Bye Dr. W I made it back in time to join the others for breakfast at a nearby diner. Then we said good-bye to our Hot Springs Motel with its fabulous sign. We were off to the wineries. What's Notable? I'm glad we stayed. The location and price was perfect for our 1-night stay in Napa Valley. I love it that we got a little combo, of mid-century motel and historic hot springs resort. I love it that we stayed before the new owners make big changes and raise rates. What a hoot that we enjoyed a dip in the mineral pool, relaxing and chatting with the kids and reading the rules...And what a treat that the old sign still glows at night! Next time... Mud Baths!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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