|
Blue Skies in Paradise! Last August, it felt a little like paradise when we arrived at Mount Rainier's Paradise Inn!  The gray and green colors of the inn looked mighty fine against the deep blue sky.  The 109-year-old building looked even more dramatic from behind. I hiked back just a bit to catch a view that showed Mount Rainier! 1917 This vintage postcard shows how the hotel looked when it first opened.  But maybe not! This is an illustration, not a photo. It was probably the architect's drawing, since I read that he wanted the roof to be red. The National Park Service said no to that. They wanted a green roof that would blend with the surroundings. August 2026 We arrived late afternoon on a Wednesday. The steep roof didn't look a bit green to me.  The roof's angle was what I did notice. It was designed to keep heavy snow from collecting, since the park gets about 50 feet of snow annually. The intense winters force the inn to shut down for about 6 months each year. Check Inn It was a little before 5 by the time we parked and headed into the lobby. The desk area wasn't as peaceful as my photo, when we approached. There was a bit of commotion, due to a faulty smoke alarm that was blasting.
The staff handled the alarm craziness with good humor. By the time we got our keys the problem was resolved. Before heading up I had fun eyeing some of the carved wood that surrounded us. I'd read about the craftsman Hans Fraehnke, who created the Bavarian style furniture and decor. Grand Hall When we stepped inside the lobby's grand hall, my eyes were drawn to the 50-ft open timber ceiling.  I spotted the stone fireplace at one end and sort of wished for a sudden snowstorm! Another massive fireplace was down at the east end, closer to the reception desk.  Many of the lodge chairs were suddenly vacant, since many guests were moving towards the line into the dining room. A lot of hungry folks at 5 pm! Rustic Rooms Don and I were traveling with my sister and her wife. We were prepared for a no-frills stay, when we headed up to our rooms. That's part of the experience with National Park lodging.
So is stair climbing. There was no elevator to take us to the 4th floor. But the window view halfway up was lovely. Dorm Halls Don and I were sort of amused as we headed down a spacious hallway. We noted that it had as much charm as a 1950's dormitory.  The door to #475 opened to a not so spacious room, tucked away at the peak of the annex building. Right beneath the very roof I'd been studying from the outside. The annex wasn't a modern addition. It was added in 1920, which meant no a.c. and no bathroom. The window was open to let in fresh air, but the room still felt a bit stuffy.
The comically narrow single beds barely fit in their little nook. But we each had 2 pillows and a tidy little bundle holding our robe and slippers. Those goodies were for us to wear when we hiked quite a ways to the shared bathrooms. A hike that involved some turns and stairs. Our room for $330. had no view of Mount Rainier. "Rainier Rooms" sell out and cost closer to $600. I'm guessing they do have bathrooms for that price.
I couldn't really complain about the view. Trees, blue skies and a bonus peek of the Tatoosh Mountain Range.  I wish I'd attempted a photo at 10 pm when I raised the window higher to let in more air. I've never seen such darkness... except for a flashlight, that accompanied a walker. Hanging Out Before dinner I was eager to meet up with Jennifer and Kate and start exploring. Jennifer tried out one of Bavarian chairs, with pencil points!
I spotted more pencil points on the 14-ft clock! I hoped to hear the clock tick or chime, but a battery now keeps the clock running quietly. I was curious about the charming piano. It looked like something from a child's storybook. In 1945 President Truman visited Paradise Inn and played "The Tennessee Waltz" on this piano.  Later in the evening this young man filled the peaceful hall with his music. I was told that he was a staff member who enjoyed playing after his work shift, since the inn no longer has a regular piano player. Another nice surprise later in the evening, was seeing the glowing lampshades. Originally the inn was decorated with Japanese paper lanterns.
During a 1930s remodel, the park replaced the lanterns with sturdier parchment shades. The wives of park rangers hand-painted each one with wildflowers. The shades today are replicas and there are more than 60 unique designs. Mezzanine Level One of my favorite places was high above the grand hall. Originally the large lobby area was completely open from floor to ceiling. In 1925 a mezzanine was added to provide sitting areas above.
I loved strolling across the walkway that connected both sides. It was a great way to view the glowing lamp shades.  It was also a great way to spy on our fellow guests below.
Actually our fellow guests were mostly just reading or playing cards or chatting quietly. We looked around for a cozy spot to enjoy.
We found a fun spot with wood beams, lodge furniture and piano music wafting up! Back to Evening My favorite part of the stay was early evening, on the deck.  We were lucky to find a spot for 4, on the elevated patio.
We had a great view of the Tatoosh Range.  We studied the jagged shapes while we sipped and snacked a little.  We watched a sweet bird for a while. Jennifer got a great photo.   After a few minutes with our heavenly view, I suddenly slipped away from the table to sneak a peek of Mount Rainier. About 300 yards from the patio deck, I found this view.  Even staff at the lodge said the view was especially sharp on that day! The Muir Steps In 1888, John Muir was also impressed with this view. His words are written on the granite steps that lead your eyes to Mount Rainier and your feet to the trails.  Muir did more than look, 137 years ago. He was 50 when he climbed Mount Rainier. He worked hard to get this special place established as a National Park. Wandering Back Before heading back I admired some of those alpine flowers that Muir appreciated.
I wandered and wondered... what was with that 2-story triangular building? A raised outhouse, with a high door... for snowdrifts? Probably just a shed. I headed back towards to the inn and spotted my sister looking out towards the mountains with her binoculars!  I returned to the deck and joined our group to enjoy the lingering evening light.  A gracious guest offered to take our photo. 7:30 Dinner When we arrived for our reservations, the dining room was a little darker than my 5 pm photo.  When we entered at 7:30 the hardworking staff was busily busing tables after an early evening rush. The tables no longer looked perfectly prepped, but the dining room was calm and welcoming. The buffet tables were looking a little sloppy by the time we visited to fill our empty plates. But we all found some good options.
Our table by the window had a lovely view. And thanks to the upbeat young fellow working the fabulous dessert table, I ended up with 4 desserts! After dinner all the day tourists were clearly gone. Jennifer caught this image of the glowing lodge looking very peaceful.  Hours before, the same view had looked very different, with cars pulling up and guests moving in and out. Nighttime After dinner we spent a little more time wandering.  I loved the displayed vintage photos, that helped me imagine guests a century ago. Walt & Lillian in 1925 The old images made me think about the book I was reading during our trip. "Walt Disney: An American Original" had a photo of Walt Disney and his bride at Mount Rainer.  When I headed for bed I was happy to have no TV sounds in our hotel when I read. As the fan buzzed nearby, I imagined good old Walt and Lillian enjoying the park. I also thought about another famous guest! Shirley Temple was 7 when she spent a night in 1936 and woke to see a fawn out her window. Morning It wasn't cold the next morning but temps had dropped enough to enjoy a fire in the lobby!
Don and I snagged 2 chairs and chatted with the man who tended the fire. He entertained us with his skills... crawling inside to add logs! Early View Around 7am Don and I headed over to the Muir Steps, which seemed to be the exact time lots other travelers had planned to meet up.
We patiently waited our turn to take a photo on the steps. While attempting a sloppy selfie, a kind ranger offered to take our photo. Such a nice guy! Sister Hike A short while later, Jennifer and I decided to take a hike. We followed a sign to Myrtle Falls Viewpoint.  The views were more stunning than expected!
 The wildlife was incredibly entertaining!
We heard the marmot before we spotted it! I now know why they're called "whistling pigs"!  Jennifer and I were so impressed with the scenery that we went back to get Don and Kate.
We retraced our steps and enjoyed it all over again! 11:00 came too soon. We checked out and I sat enjoying the lodge furniture for a couple more minutes.  I chatted with an older guest who stays a week with his wife, every year. I sat wondering if I could handle a week of buffets and bathrooms down the hall. Then I remembered that some rooms have a private bath. Hmm? What's Notable? The historic timber-framed lodge felt both cozy and dramatic. Stone fireplaces, rustic furniture, a curious mezzanine! This is was I always hope for, when staying at a National Park Lodge.  The guest room with shared bath was pretty much what I'd expected. A good place to sleep, not to hang out. The dining experience was totally fine, but not epic.
The Mount Rainier Setting, (along with excellent weather) is truly what I'll remember most. I couldn't have been more pleased with every moment we spent outdoors. I'll never forget how lovely everything looked and felt, from drinks on the patio, to hiking on the paths and trails... it was absolutely a piece of Paradise.
0 Comments
Near the Coast We spent one notable night at this oceanside hotel in Moclips, Washington.  I knew little about the property when I booked, but I knew it was near the beach. The hotel's name hinted at that. "Crest" The resort's name also hinted at the hotel's elevated location... high on a bluff, overlooking the ocean.  Our room certainly was up high! It was perched on a 125-foot bluff, about 40 feet from the shoreline! A Bit of History I knew very little about Ocean Crest before our stay. I learned more after arriving. The resort began in 1953 with just a few small cottages. Barbara Cornish (later Curtright) was the matriarch behind the family business.  She ran and expanded the resort for many decades. Changes Over the Years By 1963, Barbara and her second husband transformed a section of their on-site home into a restaurant. Barbara handled the cooking.  Eventually there were about 45 guest rooms, plus a recreation building with pool and fitness center. Barbara passed away in 2016, after 68 years of ownership. Her children sold the business in 2021, but family members are still involved today. Traveling with Family Don and I were traveling with my sister and sister-in-law, when we arrived last August. It took a minute to find the office, hidden behind a decorated wall... that looked like it was missing a little something,
On my way into the office I paused a sec to admire the driftwood, decorated with sand dollars. The vibe reminded me of Florida summers with my family in the 60s. Postcard This old postcard shows the same building, from maybe the 70s. The blue shield was secured to the wall then, but I don't see a mural below.  After we parked, I headed into a casual office space. A serious looking young woman checked me in. She handed me the keys, then surprised me with a memorized spiel. She reminded me of a well-trained flight attendant, the way she spoke while pointing to a laminated map of the property. The North Building Our 2 rooms were located in the north building. The newest rooms on the property, I believe.  On our way up the stairs I stopped a moment to look down towards the ocean.  I could see water, barely! I had to look through lots of trees and a little fog. Room 404 We found our rooms on the top floor. The exterior looked like it had a fresh coat of paint.
Once inside, it was clear our room had also been updated. The bed looked heavenly. Our room felt especially welcoming, since the night before we'd slept in rustic single beds at a National park lodge... with shared bathrooms down the hall.  Our corner room was fresh and spacious.
I was excited to make use of a decent shower before dinner. I was even more excited to check out the balcony view. The fog and trees made the view mysterious.  I got no photos of Jennifer and Kate's room, but they were equally impressed.  Before dinner, they came to our room for a toast to the coast! We moved some more chairs into the space near the windows and enjoyed a glass of wine. "Dinner House" We'd read outstanding reviews about the hotel's restaurant, which has been popular since the early 60s.  This old pamphlet shows the hotel's Dinner House, after Barbara's family converted a portion of the family home into a restaurant. Sadly in 2011, there was a massive fire in Moclips, which destroyed the restaurant. 2014 Reopening We didn't get to dine in Barbara's original Dinner House, but the restaurant was rebuilt and opened again in 2014.  We were impressed with the inviting decor.  Lots of wood and Pacific Northwest art. Dinner with a Better View! We were glad to have 7:45 reservations when we learned the popular restaurant was booked. We were given a decent table, but our waiter looked concerned.  Sam noticed our view was a bit obscured and moved us to an even better table! Jennifer and Kate had no complaints. Sam We had an incredible evening, much thanks to Sam!  He offered lots of good suggestions and told plenty of stories. "Grandma's Famous Clam Chowder" The menu spotlighted Barbara's special clam chowder, which has been a favorite since 1953. Originally the chowder was served on Fridays. It was slow cooked outside, over a Japanese Hibachi grill.  Luckily Barbara's recipe is still used today. After the resort was sold, Barbara's grandson Jess Owen stayed on as Executive Chef. Sam brought us 2 orders of chowder, divided into 4 bowls. It was just as good as we'd heard about. In fact Olympic Gold Medalist Apolo Ohno posted on his Instagram, "Favorite clam chowder on the planet!" Photo Time Sam brought our entrees a while later and happily took photos.  We were just as enthused as Apolo, I believe! My grilled prawns in coconut curry sauce were amazing. Dried apricots and mango, topped with chili threads. I was in heaven. Don's pan seared salmon with lemon dill cream was equally yummy. I should have snapped photos of our clean plates. We managed to share a little dessert but I failed to get a photo. It was gone too fast.  By the time we finished up, only a few other diners were left. We thanked Sam for a great evening and headed off.
I took a quick photo of the restaurant and hoped I could later compare it to a vintage photo. I never found one, so I just have to imagine what the old Dinner House was like when Barbara and her family cooked and served guests.  We walked just a few steps to the North Building and headed up the stairs to our comfy rooms.  Before turning in, I stepped out on the balcony and took this eerie photo of the trees. Morning Beach Adventure I woke at 6 and was tempted to linger in bed with a book. But I was just too curious about that ocean. By 6:30 I was dressed and searching for a way down to the beach.
I let the sign guide me to a gate that opened to a wooden staircase. Then I began a curious journey, down 141 steps! The growth was so dense I was unable catch a glimpse of the water or sand below. I was able to get a good view of the restaurant, though.  The steps and ramps wound this way and that. Every time I thought I was almost to the bottom, I found another set of stairs. Once the steps ended I walked over 300 steps to reach the water!  I noticed this interesting dead tree, sticking up from the sand. I learned later that there was a very good reason for that decoration in the sand. As I walked out towards the water, I looked back and had a hard time spotting the hotel.  It wasn't easy to see anything through the trees and growth. Beach Time For the next hour I wandered the wide beach. I had it to myself... except for the seagulls. I was totally entertained by the birds, sand dollars and sunrise. I wandered far enough that I eventually needed that funny tree to guide me back.
I got a little workout climbing back up.
But no complaints about climbing up through a coastal forest, after wandering an enormous sandy beach at sunrise! Coffee Time I was back sitting on the balcony with coffee, just a little after 7:30.  So glad I got a glimpse of blue sky.  The clouds had returned by the time we checked out. What's Notable? From the road, Ocean Crest Resort doesn't look like a grand destination. You can't see the beach. You can't see that the restaurant and the rooms (at least in our building) are fresh and modern and welcoming.  My fond memory of this stay will be all about the room, the dinner and the beach!
For $284. our ocean-view room was a luxurious treat! Our meal (with food & service) was fabulous! My morning visit to the beach was the icing on the cake! Another National Park Lodge! I love lodges... tucked into remote wilderness settings, filled with wood beams and rustic furniture.  Last August, Don and I stayed at our 9th National Park Lodge. My old brain is starting to confuse some of these wonderful places! Olympic National Park But our stay at Lake Crescent Lodge, in Washington's Olympic National Park, felt very different.  This time we a shared a Notable Lodge Adventure, with my sister and sister-in-law! Lodge on the Lake There was nothing overly grand about the lodge, sitting beside the lake. Maybe that's why I liked it.
It felt more like a New England inn, than a national park lodge. The front porch and lake-facing sunroom made the lodge feel homey. "Singer's Lake Crescent Tavern" The lodge was actually built about 2 decades before Olympic National Park came to be. The lakeside resort was built by Avery and Julia Singer in 1916. The isolated property was hard to reach, but travelers could make their way to the lodge by wagon roads or steam ferries.  The resort had 7 guest rooms in the lodge, plus a row of wood-framed cottages. Canvas tents were also used. The cottages looked inviting with their porches and rockers, as we passed on the way to the main building.  The current cottages were rebuilt after the originals began to deteriorate. The exact design was used to replace the old buildings. The Lodge & FDR My morning photo of the lobby looks a lot more peaceful than when we first arrived. At 4:30 pm there were guests of all ages, checking in, standing in line at the bar and lounging in all the seating areas.  I wonder what the vibe was in 1937, when President Roosevelt spent time in this very lobby, after touring the Olympic Peninsula. Evidently a storm was crashing outside as he faced an intense pro-timber crowd, opposed to the idea of a future national park. 9 months later FDR signed the bill which added Olympic National Park, as the the 23rd National Park! Cozy Space The lobby was lively when we arrived. Speakers played music that we wouldn't have heard in the early days of the park. In the morning without people around, I could more easily imagine guests in the 1940s, playing chess or reading books by the fire. I peeked around and spotted a phone booth. I could suddenly picture the wooden phone box being in high demand, back in pre-cellphone days. Local lore claims that one famous guest used that very phone booth in 1962.  Supposedly Robert Kennedy and his family were guests, on the day that Marilyn Monroe died. With no phones in rooms, RFK spent a good deal of time inside the phone booth talking to his brother. At least that's what the rumor says. If it is indeed just a rumor, it's an odd one. I'd be curious to hear the story explaining how the rumor came to be. Up We Go After checking in, we headed up the stairs. No elevators at the lodge.
Walking down the narrow hall I felt like I'd stepped back in time, to one of the no frills family camps my mother used to describe. White washed walls, pipes near the ceiling... an open window. 5 Rooms There are only 5 original rooms left upstairs. My fingers were crossed that ours might be above the sunroom, with windows opening to a lake view.  No luck. Don and I had a room on the back, near a chimney.
My sister Jennifer took this fine photo of me looking out our narrow window. One can only guess what that expression is about. Dorm Room I knew that the room I'd booked had 2 single beds, no TV and no phone or bathroom. But I still was a little surprised at how tiny it was.
We had one table and lamp, plus a shelf holding towels. I'm sure the room has hardly changed since the Singers opened the resort. Except for one thing. A Keurig coffeemaker. We also had a bench that was placed in front of a door that led to an adjoining room. Luckily Jennifer and Kate were in the next room. The walls were so thin we didn't need to open the door to make plans.  Don and I laughed at our cramped dorm room. We're always willing to put up with a little inconvenience, to stay in an epic, historic place. But we're also getting older. 12 years older than when we started these crazy Notable Night Adventures! Jealous! "No fair!" is something you learn to say frequently when you're a little sister. I played my whiny younger sister role when I saw Kate and Jennifer's room. "No fair! You have a big window! Wait, why do you get a sink and we don't!"  Our room did supply slippers, but no robes for shuffling down the hall to the bathroom in the middle of the night. 1 toilet for the ladies and 1 for the men. That can be tricky, sharing with 5 guest rooms. At 10 pm I was forced to brush my teeth in the women's shower room. Searching for a Spot At 5:30, the lobby music didn't appeal to us, so we looked for seating elsewhere. The sunroom was a good option with its open windows.
But the front porch was better! We lucked out finding 4 chairs and a table.
I love a front porch! It was entertaining watching visitors come and go. Lake Activity Even better, there was lots of activity to watch on the nearby beach.  I like to imagine back in the day, when guests first arrived by ferry. The lodge was much more remote, before the Olympic Highway was built in 1922. Lake Time Jennifer and I suddenly couldn't sit still on the porch. We left Kate and Don for while, to stick our feet in the lake.
It wasn't as cold as you'd guess for a lake created by a glacier. It was certainly clearer than any lake water I've ever seen back home in Texas! "Lady of the Lake" I wonder how many of the guests who enjoyed the lake that day, knew about the sad story of Hallie Illingworth. I'm glad I didn't know it at the time.  After our stay, I learned the story. A 37-year-old lodge waitress went missing, days before Christmas in 1937. Her abusive husband was later charged when her body was found in the lake. Over the years, many have shared about their surprising moments, when the Lady of the Lake has appeared, near the water and in the lodge.
I'm glad the only surprise we found in the water was a sweet duck. Ready for Dinner It was hard to give up our perfect porch spot, but we had dinner reservations.
We entered the dining room beneath a giant elk head. The stone fireplace added some character, but low ceilings and modern woodwork lacked charm. It made me wish we could have dined like guests a century ago, who ate at tables in the cozy lobby area or on the porch.
Our server seemed professional and the menu offered some tasty options, but service was a bit slow. That meant I had some spare time, to run outside and check on the sunset.  After I returned to the table, Jennifer stepped out and got an even better photo. No fair!  Just kidding about the sibling squabbles. Jennifer got a wonderful shot of that glorious view! Morning After dinner we headed upstairs. Guests on the second floor were so quiet, they must have all been whispering. The lodge rules say no kids under 18 are allowed upstairs. No noise after 10. I was glad for the quiet and slept well. To bed early and up early. It was fun to head downstairs before 7 and have the lobby and porch to myself. I was no longer alone when I wandered the grounds beneath the towering pines. Frisky squirrels were going crazy above me! I swear they were aiming at me with those pinecones! Too Short After a tasty breakfast in the dining room, we packed up and headed off.  As we passed the lineup of kayaks and paddle boards, we were reminded that we really hadn't begun to enjoy all that the lodge and lake had to offer. We were leaving too soon. What's Notable? Our stay at Lake Crescent Lodge felt more like a popular family camp than a touristy National Park. The atmosphere felt active, yet relaxed. The guests enjoying the lodge were more varied in age. There were fewer serious outdoorsmen and fewer oldster retirees, than we've seen at other NPs. Being an oldster, I can say that.  Mostly I loved how the lodge felt like a big home, sitting on a big lake. Even with busy families on the beach, everything felt calm. Our 1 night stay made me crave a family reunion. Jennifer and I sat on a log talking about that very possibility. Maybe someday?
|
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
August 2026
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed