Van Horn, Texas in 2012 This is yet another example of a Henry Trost designed hotel in west Texas. I love the style of El Capitan... and I kind of love the name, too.
Where is Van Horn? The hotel with its fine neon roof sign, sits at 100 West Broadway, two blocks off I-10... somewhere between Big Bend National Park and Carlsbad Caverns. We saw a lot of signs to help guide us to important places, which was good, since there didn't seem to be a person in sight who might have pointed the way for us. Familiar Lobby! It's been 3 years since Don and I stayed at El Capitan, but I figured I should write this up since I just finished sharing about Hotel El Paisano in Marfa, TX. They were both designed by Trost and opened in 1930. I usually dislike the lack of surprises in today's chain hotels, but comparing these similar buildings from 85 years ago, is fun. Both are U-shaped structures built around courtyards. Both have glazed tile, stuffed creatures and lots of leather and wood. Hidden Treasures It was fun wandering the lobby for hints of the past. Where do you find an awesome tiled water fountain toady? I loved knowing my grandmother would have been charged only a couple dollars, if she had stopped here when she was a young woman. Evidently there are many more treasures... like passages and secret rooms. Our Corner Room There are less than 50 rooms and the deluxe ones open onto the courtyard. But Don and I (as usual) were passing through and going for the cheap. Our tiny upstairs, corner room was "right sweet" as my grandmother would have said. Shiny Clean Bathroom And the bathroom was spotless. That's because all new bathrooms were installed in 2007. New bathrooms were needed, since the old ones were removed, when the hotel became a bank in the seventies. That worked for us since we got a nice vintage-look without the cracks and creaks and dingy stuff that often comes along with things called "Historic". Plus, they used great hexagon tile on the floor to once again cause me to remember my grandmother... and her bathroom! Room with a View! Those higher dollar rooms might have had terrace views of the fountain in the courtyard, but lookey here! We had a view of Broadway, (Which seems to be broader than needed) and a dusty truck... ... and would that be a peek of the Guadalupe Mountains behind the low buildings? What's Happening in Van Horn? I love a hotel where you can get out and explore on foot. Well... we had hoped to find a good cafe for dinner, or a quaint shop. But mostly there were quiet storefronts and a couple water towers. It's our own fault that we chose to ignore the hand made invites taped to numerous poles and walls. I can't believe we passed up the opportunity to "Get down with the groove" and to "Party and Dance" at the Van Horn Community Center. Shame on us. Another Fine Courtyard We were lazy. we went back and enjoyed the courtyard before dinner. It was May and the weather was quite decent. There were fewer people watching opportunities than at El Paisano. In fact we were the only folks enjoying the patio. Good Eats! We did find some good food in the dining room. A few were sitting at "The Gopher Bar" which used to be in the basement. The bank vault from "bank days" had become the wine cellar. My Pistachio Fried Steak with Jalepeno Gravy (mashed taters & asparagus) was as rich and tangy as I had hoped for! And our waitress had some pretty interesting stories about life in a town of 2,000 when your husband is a border patrol agent. Fellow Guests at Breakfast The dining room had a different vibe in the morning, with no white cloths and a serve yourself breakfast. The biggest addition to the room was a table of cowboy hats. I couldn't hear their conversation, but their positive tone and body language made me want to pull up a chair! Poet and Wife As we loaded the car before heading off, we got to talk with one of the fellas with hat and beard. He and his wife and friends had just attended a Cowboy Poetry Fesitval, which we had evidently missed the night before. Shame on us twice! We missed the Community Center Dance AND the Poetry Festival. We stood and talked for at least 20 minutes and were pretty much convinced to attend next year. Well, we would have...had it been closer! What is Notable? Unlike Paisano, this building has the smooth adobe look of the real southwest! There is something about this fabulous, balanced structure, sit-in non this wide road in the middle of sort-of-nowhere! The isolation of this gem of a hotel is what makes it special to me. I wish we'd stayed longer to get a feel for the travelers who come through. That could be just as interesting! Update in 2024! Don and I finally returned for another stay. 12 years after our first visit! The most noticeable change, was seeing all the growth in the courtyard! This time, we stepped it up and got a room overlooking the courtyard and foundation. Actually we couldn't see the fountain from our balcony. The trees were too dense. But we could very clearly see the neon letters on the building! I loved our little balcony. At night the balcony was even more entertaining, with glowing neon. And full-ish moon. And the sound of a train horn, that startled Don! Common Areas The lobby and the sitting room, (off the restaurant) were much as I remembered. But I were much more aware of the curious guests coming and going, on this visit. (Although I show no one in my photos) Don and I hung out near the fireplace before and after dinner and chatted with quite a few guests as they passed through. Some paused to work on the puzzle or browse at books in the "Book Nook". There were travelers like us and locals enjoying the evening. No one seemed in a hurry. What's Notable about our Second Stay? I'm so glad to see the old hotel being used and appreciated. I believe it felt even more welcoming the second time. So glad we got to enjoy the little oasis in the middle of nowhere, once again!
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Best in the West Gotta love this place! It may be in the middle of nowhere Texas, but it's worth the drive. Don and I have stayed 3 times and each visit has had its own quirky memories. Where is it? Marfa is a town of less than 3,000 located in the Chihuahuan Desert in West Texas. I first heard of Marfa 10 years ago, when I read that the town was hosting a 50th anniversary screening of the movie "Giant". In 1955, Hollywood took over the tiny town to start filming the iconic movie. El Paisano became home to much of the cast for 6 weeks. Taylor, Hudson and Dean all had rooms at the hotel, although some moved over to private homes after a while. During the filming period, locals were invited to see bits of the progress on film at the Palace Theatre, across from Paisano. 1929 Ground was broken to build this 65 room hotel, just before the stock market crashed. The Henry Trost designed hotel managed to thrive. It was considered the most elegant hotel between San Antonio and El Paso, hosting cattle ranchers and tourists in search of dry desert air. Classy Cowboy Style Classy? Well, I don't usually think of longhorns and buffalo heads as being classy, but there's a Rich-Ranchy feel to the place. The painted ceiling beams and shiny tile floors are my favorites! The hotel can be entered from Main Street, or through the courtyard. This painted window looks out to the courtyard, which seems to attract more lounging guests than these wood and leather, lobby chairs. The lobby is cozy... but dim. The Pool The wild beasts give the place a "lodgey" feel. Lobby I've never seen anyone in the pool. There's sort of an odd feel to the pool room, which was added on in 1960. I guess that was a time when travelers expected pools. The big trees are nice through the windows but it seems out of place. I'm not sure why I've never been lured to swim. The Other Side On the opposite side of the lobby from the pool, there are a number of spaces. There's another darkish room, filled with "Giant" memorabilia. As you can see James Dean is standing there keeping an eye on all those framed articles and knickknacks, as well as the old TV, running the movie 24 hours a day. Also at the "front end" of the hotel, there is a fabulous gift shop with some very cool and unusual finds. There's a gallery and a shop...and I think a work-out space somewhere? Heading Up There's no elevator, so you do have to lug your bags up a stairway. I'm sure there were bellhops to carry Liz's bags, back in the day. The hall is only slightly updated, with old western art and photographs lining the walls. We have stayed in three different rooms and the first was our favorite. #1 Mystery Room This small room was made spacious by the French doors leading to the walled in terrace with fireplace. It wasn't until we checked out the next day that we learned the room had just recently opened. The door to this room had been hidden behind a wall, but it was obvious from the outside that there must be another room. The door and room was revealed and then renovated. We were assured that a staff member spent a night in the room before it was open to guests. There could have been some wild ghost activity depending on the story behind the room closure! And no one seemed to know that story. The View The best part of Mystery Room was the balcony and morning view! I had to stand on the ledge to get a good view, but what a sight! Morning light, glowing on the old courthouse and quaint water tower! #2 James Dean Room This room with the old radiator is the actual room where J. Dean stayed during part of the filming. He evidently was the most friendly of all the stars and often played pool in the hotel basement and mingled with the locals. This of course was his last movie (of only 3) since his fatal car accident occurred during post production. The Bathroom This was a pretty small bathroom for a star, but I could picture J.D. waving away any frills that might have been offered. I could also picture him shaving at the old sink, with the original metal mirror/cabinet. The tile work was awful fun and you could practically take a seat on the toilet while you showered... if you actually wanted to! Funny. #3 Room With Courtyard View This was actually one of the larger, nicer rooms with terrace overlooking the courtyard. This might have been our favorite room of the 3, but our next door neighbors also shared the balcony. And they were having a bit of a party, which was pretty darn annoying. It would have been perfect if we'd had friends or family joining us on the balcony instead! Evening in the Courtyard Two of our three visits were in warm months when the festive lights and gurgling fountain lured us right into the courtyard. On a winter visit, I think they had a fire pit, to make the chilly night festive. But maybe I just wished that up. ?? Busy Courtyard We did have some fun people watching in the courtyard on our warm weather visits. We chatted with a few locals and a couple tourists. Some were dining outside of Jett's Grill and there were a couple rambunctious kiddos who enjoyed climbing through the lobby window to fetch an apple from the complimentary fruit bowl. Dressing For Dinner Our Marfa trips have always included other stops, so sometimes you have to wear some purchases for dinner. Here I am in the Nepalese made jacket, purchased at Big Bend National Park AND some awesome used cowboy boots from an antique shop in Alpine. The bar at Jett's (named for James Dean's character of course) was a great place to converse with a good mix of locals. Where else can you chat with ranch hands at one end of the bar and a film maker at the other? Dinner was good as well. What's Notable? El Paisano will always be the hotel that ignited my curiosity about hotel history. Actually I've always loved historic hotels, but it was the preservation that intrigued me. Some luxury hotels have amazing histories, but look like modern Marriotts on the inside. This grand Spanish Revival building was spruced up for modern tourists, but the goodies were not removed! The glazed tile and wrought iron... the archways, beams... hefty leather chairs and stuffed critters! I love this hotel because it allows me to imagine the past!
West End Roatan, Honduras Don and I had a good deal for week stay at a resort on the island. We were excited but knew we have limited tolerance for touristy settings, so we booked one night midweek at "Roatan Bed & Breakfast". Internet photos made the place look peaceful and the owner, Barbara seemed very welcoming in emails. So on Wednesday morning we said good-by to air-conditioning and waterfall pools. Thirty minutes later, we said hello to a 3-story, wooden giant, with shutters and screens, high on a jungly hill! The Road Up Barbara had her friend Ever, pick us up in his cab. We talked the whole drive until we reached the West End area on the lively Half Moon Bay. Ever's cab has made this slow, rumbly ride up the winding dirt road, many times. He knew every pothole and barking dog and even stopped to chat with a mother, hiking down the road with her baby. It's only a 10 minute climb on foot, but seemed to take longer in the cab. The Jungle House The inn is only 20 years old, but it had a nostalgic look about it. It reminded me of the "family-camps" my mom used to describe, with screened sleeping porches holding rockers and hammocks. Wood Everywhere! Ever hollered up to Barbara who came down to let us in. She was busily preparing our room. We would be the only guests that night, but she had had a full house the night before. We circled up the spiral staircase to the main floor with the kitchen and gathering areas. There was a beautiful blend of wood from floor to ceiling! The Porch We settled on the porch (yes, with a hammock!) while Barbara finished up. Ever showed us pictures of his kids and we asked more questions about the island. He was hanging out, so he could take Barbara to do some shopping after we got settled. I tried to imagine Barbara living here on this hill, with no car for 20 years! Up Again As we traveled up to the third floor, I began to realize this kind of island living could keep you pretty young. Not only would the hike up and down the road be a good workout, but the stairs could also burn off a few calories. They really were beautiful stairs, though! Windows! Our room was so simple and clean, it made me grin. The row of windows made it feel like we were in a treehouse. Through the jungly branches, we could see the blue green Caribbean! Barbara asked us to please turn off lights and fans when we were gone, since it's very costly on the island. She sort of apologized for the weather, which had turned extra hot that day. We definitely needed the ceiling fan as we unpacked. Bathroom Our spacious bathroom was filled with wood and tile. The window view was blocked by tree branches, so no need to curtains... which felt sort of odd at night when you're used to neighbors close by. There was lots of counter space with a large mirror over the sink, as well as a full length mirror. The mirrors reflected even more of the jungly scenery from the windows. Final Climb We unpacked and continued up the spiral staircase to its end. There was a small shed-sized structure that opened onto a huge roof deck. There was enough room for a large party, but no shade at noon. I forgot to ask Barbara how this space was used. A few umbrella tables would have been nice. Night! Don and I were able to walk down to dinner easily and our trip back up in the dark wasn't too tricky. There were actually some street lamps shining down on the dirt road and onto the little homes tucked into the growth. We used our key and circled up 2 flights of stairs and tiptoed to our room. The floors creaked a bit and I felt like a teenager arriving after curfew. Our room was still warm, but we showered and turned on the ceiling fan. A breeze began to blow through the curtains and it reminded me so much of summers at my grandmother's, when she turned on the attic fan to cool us. And pretty soon we heard rumbles and we were given the best gift of all, a rainstorm with open windows! (We never get to enjoy storms and open windows in humid Houston) Our Friend Pepperoni The night had cooled things quite a bit and we could smell Barbara's coffee and vegetable scramble. We asked her to join us while we ate at the large round table, that surrounded a big wooden pillar. We loved hearing her stories of moving her from Milan, Italy 20 years ago. We also loved being joined by the sweetest cat ever, Pepperoni! Shady Porch It was pretty heavenly, taking our coffee and books out to the porch, where a nice breeze was picking up. It was amazing to sit there and just listen to the wind and birds. Good Bye! Barbara finished cleaning up and was a good sport about posing for a photo. We asked her what she missed most, since she's so far home. "Food and shopping!" She laughed. "And I'm not able to travel the way I used to." I asked Barbara if she missed that and she shook her head. "Actually no. I get to travel with all of the stories I hear from my guests!" She lit up when she talked about all the interesting visitors she's had from all over the world. "I have artists and musicians and writers and people who come for so many different reasons. I feel like I've traveled with them, every time I hear their stories! What's Notable? I will remember the open windows and breezy porch. Yes, it was hot, but that made it feel like we were stepping back in time. I will remember Barbara's warmth and humor and the fresh, uncluttered feel of the place... Well, there were a few conch shells cluttering the porch railing. That's the perfect kind of clutter!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
December 2023
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