#358 - The Reserve Retreat Inn in Sarasota

Retreat on the Tamiami Trail!

This unique inn, sits right on Florida's Tamiami Trail. The historic road (that travels from Tampa to Miami) was completed in 1928. 

The buildings that make up the boutique hotel, are actually older. All have a fun connection to the famous circus family, the Ringlings. The structures were moved by mule to this location, around the time the Trail opened. 

3 Buildings

There are only 5 hotel suites, in the 3 barn-shaped buildings. Some are named for members of the Ringling family. The North and South buildings sit behind the main building, which was named for Charles Ringling.

Last April, Don and I  spent the night upstairs in the South Building, on the right.

Connections to Ringling Circus 

The Charles Ringling Building faces Tamiami Trail. It was once home to Charles and Edith Ringling, back when the famous circus empire employed over 1,000 employees. 

Charles and Edith Ringling lived in this modest house while their winter mansion was being built in Sarasota. Today the cozy building houses a fabulous little restaurant and the Otto Ringling Suite on the upper floor.

Lots of Ringlings

I've always known about John Ringling. He was the brother that got biggest spotlight out of the 5 Ringling brothers who ran the "Greatest Show on Earth". Charles and his brother John were both prominent in Sarasota in the twenties. In 1926 they moved their circus winter headquarters to Sarasota. 

The 5 bros certainly looked alike with their matching mustaches. But they all had their own personalities and skills. I was curious about Otto since a guest suite was named for him. I read that he was a financial wizard and a recluse. He died in 2011 and possibly never even came to Sarasota. I've no idea why the upstairs room has his name.

Who's on the Porch?

When we ate dinner during our stay, I spotted this framed photo near our table. I wondered if this was one of the Ringling women.

Our server didn't know, but I recognized the front porch. It matched the picture I took of the main building. This photo (from the '20s or '30's?) surely can't be Edith. She was born in 1869. Their daughter Hester? Or could she have been a circus performer who lived on the property once it was moved and housed circus staff.

Another Glimpse
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This photo (with white paint and picket fence!) was also near our dining table. It made me wonder more about the property and the folks who once lived here. 

What were the other 2 buildings used for? Where were the 3 buildings before moving? Near Sarasota Bay, where Charles and Edith's mansion was being built?

R for Ringling?

This photo shows 2 of the 3 buildings. I can see an "R" on the window awning attached to the Charles Ringling building.

If they went to the trouble to personalize the awning, this must have been more of a home to Charles & Edith, than some temp housing situation. 
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Location

My family visited Sarasota many times in the '60s & '70s. My memories of the Tamiami Trail, are all about old Florida style motels. Mom & Pop motor courts with pastel paint and neon signs. Cement seahorses... Funny, I don't at all remember ever seeing this trio of structures. 

In 2026, the Tamiami Trail seems very different. The Reserve Retreat sits on a very tidy part of the Trail, next to an attractive roundabout. The location is incredibly convenient to downtown, museums, bay etc.

Cozy Cluster

Since the buildings were moved about a century ago, they've been used in numerous ways. A boarding house and circus performance venue... I also read that it became a bordello at some point. Who knows?

In later years, the structures housed a family photo studio and a dress shop, an art gallery and a residential tenement of some kind. The property sat vacant for at least a decade before becoming a boutique hotel. Just this past year, the property was nicely spiffed up with new ownership. 

Outside Dining

When we arrived on a Monday afternoon last April, I noticed a woman putting out tablecloths. The outside dining space looked inviting.  

We had dinner reservations for 7:00. I'd read many good things about the Italian chef who would be preparing our meal. Chef Antonio. 

Check-In

It was around 4 when we arrived for our stay. I'd been instructed to find our key in a mailbox outside the North Building. 

I'm fine with self check-in, but I was pleased when one of the new owners pulled up in the nearby parking lot. He introduced himself as Flavio. (I hope I got that right) He was very welcoming and we had a wonderful chat on many subjects. The historic property... how Florida compares to his home in Italy... renovations.  I told him how I'd always had a passion for circuses and for Sarasota... The Circus Capital! I let him know how much I appreciated how they were preserving the property's history.

Mable Ringling Suite

Flavio pointed out the North Building, which held 2 rooms with typical B&B names. Bayside Bliss and Reserve Retreat. Then we walked to the South building and he opened the door to a staircase. Don and I would be staying in the room was upstairs, right above the Charles Ringling Suite.

I'm a circus fan, so I was happy to have a room named for a Ringling. But I'm curious why it was named for Mable. She was actually married to Charles' brother, John. I had a lot of questions about the name choices, but I didn't bother Flavio with my endless ponderings.

Mable's Suite

I loved the homey feel of our spacious suite. It took over the entire upper level of the building.

There were a few reminders that the building was about a century old. Sections of the floor looked original.

I have no clue what Charles and Edith used this building for in the 1920s.

It could have been an apartment for a relative. Maybe there was a refrigerator up here... but certainly not a microwave or a coffee maker. I was glad to have them, along with bottled water and snacks.

The decor in the room was a tiny bit dated, but it was comfy, spotless and peaceful.

Windows!

We had lots of them! One window gave us a view of the barn-like home where Charles and Edith once lived. 

Two more windows looked towards the house next door, with growth so thick we couldn't spy on neighbors.

​Another window was hidden behind a curtain at the head of the (very comfy) bed.

Another window filled the bathroom with light. I love a bright bathroom.

Reserve Restaurant

I spent a number of childhood summers living in Sarasota. I loved living in a town where performers and animals once lived and trained in the winters. It was fun to know that Don and I would be dining in a home, where members of the famous circus family dined over 100 years ago.

At 5 pm I headed to the main building to peek at the restaurant. The home's original front entrance was no longer in use. We would sit beside those doors at dinner later.

Restaurant at 5:00

Near the patio area I found the entrance. There were quite few dining guests, in the 3 cozy rooms. The restaurant opens at 4:30 and plenty were taking advantage of early dining.

Through a set of doors I could spot the home's staircase. A man was sitting nearby, at the table that would later be ours.
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Other Spots

There are less than 10 tables in 3 small areas. The table for 2 by the old fireplace looked cozy.

A small room on the north side held 3 tables. Did Charles and Edith spend much time in this sunny room? Did they really get to relax when they wintered in Sarasota? Hope so! They both traveled with the circus the rest of the year.
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Happy Hour

There was no lounge in the Reserve Restaurant, but I chatted with a very gracious server who said we were more than welcome to make use of the sitting area on the dining patio,

Don and I brought our own beverages from the room and enjoyed the people watching. Most of the diners coming and going seemed to be around our age or older. The guests all seemed to be retirees. Not tourists, but in-the-know locals. I had to chuckle at my childhood memories of Sarasota retirees. My siblings (and I) used to snicker about all the oldsters in their Bermuda shorts and silly sunglasses. But Sarasota Seniors have changed over the years. These folks looked like they might be inclined to talk about current art or Peace Corps memories, rather than golf and bridge. Or maybe I'm seeing things differently now... since these oldsters are my peers.
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Our Funny Space

We arrived at 7 and were seated at the sweet little table at the bottom of the stairs. 

It was odd to be between the main dining room and the kitchen, but I think it was the best space.

There were vintage photos displayed nearby, that made me long to step back in time. I would love to experience Sarasota before the 1960s, when Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus still wintered each year. 

Our table location also gave us a good peek into a room filled with wine. Noises from the kitchen were entertaining. The music playing in the kitchen was actually enjoyable and the voices (Italian I believe) were upbeat and lively.

Antonio

Our special seat gave us an opportunity to catch Chef Antonio at one point.

I was happy to let him know I'd read so many great reviews about his restaurant. He seemed happy that I'd chosen his Special of the Day, not on the menu.

Food & Drink

Before our food arrived, we enjoyed some wine and incredibly tasty bread, served in a warm paper bag. Don was happy with his Mediterranean choice. Grouper Livornese, with cherry tomatoes, black olives, capers, onion and garlic! 

I can't recall the name of my special dish, but it could have fed 4!  Tortellini with a creamy meat sauce! Kind of like a hearty stroganoff! Both meals were excellent.

Good Ending

Our 2 busy servers were fantastic. Both women I believe were Italian. I wish we'd had more time to chat. The 2 women may have been part of the new ownership. 

We were given some complimentary shots of Grappa, before our bill came in a fun cigar box. Just another fun detail.

Walking Off Dinner

Our hotel may have been right beside a fairly busy road, but it felt safe and quite pretty, when we walked around after dinner.

As the sky grew darker, we walked back into the neighborhood behind the hotel. We popped back out near the roundabout. In the center of the circle, an impressive sculpture glowed against a dramatic sky. 

Morning Walk

In the morning I had a got out for a 30-minute walk and discovered 2 nearby parks.

What a treat on a pleasant April morning, to find 2 fine views of Sarasota Bay.

Ringling Mansions

After checking out of our hotel with all its Ringling family connections, we drove 2.5 miles to tour Ca' d'Zan, which is the glamorous mansion built by Charles' brother. John and Mable completed their 56-room winter home around the same time Charles and Edith moved into theirs.

While wandering the lovely grounds around the mansion, we spotted a grand home next door. I hadn't known before that the mansion Charles and Edith had built, was next door to his brother's. It's now owned by New College, so not a museum.

New College

We later drove to the front of the mansion, now called College Hall. The security guard welcomed us in to look around. I had fun telling the guard that my brother had gone to the experimental private college back when New College was indeed new.

It was fun to see some of the  grand rooms, especially the music room, with its enormous organ. Sadly Charles lived less than a year after moving into their new home. Edith and and family lived on the property many years longer. I was surprised to learn that she played an important role in running the circus. I kind of wish our hotel suite had been named for Edith. 

What's Notable?

I didn't exactly know what to expect with our stay. It was confusing trying to book, since ownership had changed. The new website wasn't up yet and information was difficult to get. I kept expectations low. 

But I was thrilled when we pulled up and found the buildings and landscape looking fresh. The staff was pleasant and professional. The dining experience was lovely. (Antonio has been chef here for many years)

Our cozy inn property almost felt like a country estate in New England... with palms. I would have enjoyed myself just fine at this homey hotel, even if there'd been no Ringling connection. (Most guests aren't as obsessed about hotel history or circus history) But knowing our hotel had a place in Ringling Family history, was fun and certainly notable!
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