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Serene Stay In July, we spent a couple of nights at this Santa Fe "sanctuary".  Well it wasn't actually a religious sanctuary. It was charming century-old hotel with a peaceful spirit, inspired by Saint Francis of Assisi. Lobby When we stepped inside the lobby last July, I felt like I'd stepped inside an old mission. Arches and candles, cool Mexican marble floors...  ... and what was that gentle music that seemed to float throughout the lobby? Gregorian chants? Some Franciscan Mission music? It was lovely and eerie at once. De Vargas Hotel The hotel didn't always have a St. Francis theme. The exterior was always Mission Revival in style, but the hotel first opened as De Vargas Hotel. I can't find interior pictures, but I believe the first class hotel had a much different feel... men in top hats and women in long gowns.  I'm not sure how many years the hotel had been in business, when a sudden fire destroyed the building in 1922. I read that a copper still in the basement caused the explosive fire. (Oh those Prohibition days!) But by 1924, construction was completed and De Vargas Hotel reopened. 1924 Don and I arrived for our stay, 100 years later! There were no steamer trunks or staff members checking to see our wedding license, before escorting us to our room. ('twas common practice back then)  But there was a casual classy elegance, when we climbed out to valet park, in front of the long veranda. Patron Saint of Santa Fe (since 1717!) It wasn't until 1986, that the hotel changed hands and became St. Francis Hotel. That was 269 years after St. Francis became the Patron Saint of Santa Fe!  The hotel's architecture seems very different than so many of the Pueblo style buildings in the beautiful city. But the simple and spiritual style of the hotel reflects the early Franciscan missionaries of Santa Fe. Peaceful When we checked in at the lobby desk, I almost felt like I needed to whisper.  The atmosphere felt holy... in the best of ways. I remember visiting Assisi, in 1969. The Italian village felt magical as my family explored peaceful cloisters and cathedrals and monasteries. St. Francis loved children and animals, so how could I not feel impressed as a kid. I've been a fan of St. Francis ever since. If I dare to use the word fan! Stone Baptismal Maybe it was the Baptismal Font in the middle of the lobby that made me feel like I was in a spiritual place.  At age 11, I remember staring at those giant stone tubs, in European cathedrals. As a kid I'd seen a few baby baptisms, in my small town Catholic Church in Iowa. But never in a stone bathtub! Survived the 1922 Fire I read that when the sudden fire swept through the hotel a century ago, all that was left was the chimney.  But the fireplace and mantel evidently survived! It's amazing to imagine the entire hotel being rebuilt around the lovely fireplace! One Pane of Glass One more thing survived. I read that a single pane of glass remained in tact, after the fire.  I forgot to ask if they actually used that single pane, when they rebuilt? Could it actually be within one of those tall lobby windows, near the fireplace? Upstairs There was an elevator, which helped with luggage, but I loved using the candle-lit stairs most of the time.
Marble and wrought iron, candles and crosses. I felt like I was in Spain or Italy. Santa Fe History and Art On the 2nd and 3rd floors, we found great historic photo displays of old Santa Fe.  I loved the quiet hallways, with glowing arrangements of sacred art. Some dating back hundreds of years.  This Madonna, (inside its fabulous frame) was my favorite. It was part of an arrangement, displayed just steps from our room.  I greeted this little Madonna, every time I passed. The trio of frames was displayed above a traditional wooden chest.  The chest dated back to the days of El Camino Real. The chest might have carried grains, as it traveled on rollers. Room 303 100 years ago there were nearly 100 guest rooms. There are closer to 80 today, after renovations.  Our third floor room felt simple and calm, with earthy, natural colors and lots of wood.  The lamps and bedside tables had lots of old character. The bed felt fresh and new. St. Francis would have liked our dove pillow. Rustic Just like the rest of the hotel, there were lots of handcrafted pieces of furniture made by local artisans.
The luggage stand (bench) looked like it was 300 years old. Pretty sure it was made of refurbished wood. More Wood The lovely carved wardrobe hid a modern flat screen TV. We hardly needed a TV, but I kind of liked having a choice. Especially since it was out of sight.  There was a small step up to the nicely remodeled bathroom. No mishaps luckily.
The table/sink setup, fit the primitive decor of the room. It reminded me of a washstand with a pitcher & bowl, that might have been used in the 16th century... by a Franciscan Friar maybe? Windows and Chairs I loved our chair set up, next to the windows.  One evening we sat in the wood & leather chairs, with Margaritas and toasted to St. Francis. I hope that's allowed.  Our windows (on the front of the hotel) looked out towards the historic Hotel La Fonda and the mountains beyond! Fresh air with no humidity! Gruet Luckily we had 2 nights at St Francis, so there was enough time to enjoy something besides Margaritas in our room.  This ornate entrance once led to the hotel's coffee shop. (see old photo) Now the door opens to a tasting room for Gruet Winery. We could also enter the Tasting Room, from a doorway in the lobby.  We visited on a Tuesday afternoon and learned about the Gruet family, that brought their Champagne producing skills from France to New Mexico in the 1980s.
Their winery produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based sparkling wines, as well as a small collection of still wines.  We sampled a few, near a window with champagne bubbles in the glass! More Options Our hotel was just a block from the historic Plaza and endless restaurants, but we had more choices without leaving the building.
At the other end of the hotel was the Secreto Bar. A charming interior, but it was too nice out, to sit inside! The Veranda We weren't the only ones who got drinks at Secreto, but brought them outside.  The Santa Fe air was lovely. We came out in the morning and enjoyed the veranda with coffee and pastries.  We didn't exactly have an ideal mountain or ocean view from our soft sofas. But there were some trees and the sidewalk activity was amusing. We sat there like oldsters on a porch... watching the world go by. And loving every moment.
I love a good hotel porch, rain or shine! Dining? The hotel's restaurant, Wolf and Roadrunner was located at the north end of the building. Sadly it was closed on Monday and Tuesday, when we stayed.
The dining room with stone walls and fireplace looked so lovely when I peeked in. Evidently this space once held stables. Evening Both evenings we headed out and enjoyed exploring before dinner.  The hotel felt welcoming when we returned. We explored a little more around the lobby, with candles flickering.
If I'd been 11, I would have counted every St. Francis I could find. (That is not St. Francis stepping on a man!) I didn't do any counting, but I picked my favorite. The carved figure near the lobby desk was the most impressive. Carved from a single piece of wood.
As we wandered a bit, I noticed the music had changed. I think that's probably a good thing that the hotel doesn't play "holy-sounding-music" 24-7. Morning at Both mornings we got out to enjoy Santa Fe, before tourists. The second morning we visited Inn and Spa at Loretto. (mouthful)  We were able to enjoy 2 hotels, since the St. Francis had pool & spa privileges with this lovely property!
It was just a brief walk, with our coffees and newspaper. We had the pool to ourselves! Wandering Photos below just show a little bit of the wandering we enjoyed. These photos hardly give a hint of all that was walkable. What's Notable? We stayed at what is considered the oldest hotel in Santa Fe. That's odd, since so many buildings are hundreds of years older than the St. Francis.  Most of all I will remember the calm atmosphere, with its focus on St. Francis. Despite the hotel being 100 and the style being rather sparse, all felt fresh and clean and comfortable. The location and veranda were big perks as well!
And hey! I'm posting this on October 4, 2024. It's St. Francis of Assisi Feast Day!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
January 2026
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