Roadside "Inn" Don and I recently spent one night at the Santa Maria Inn, while traveling the California coast. This is not what we saw when we arrived. But this is what travelers in 1917 saw when they drove up on the El Camino Real. The road was dirt back then. Today A green sign with gold letters, greeted us when we pulled off what is now, South Broadway. Behind the sign and fountain, stood a 6-story building and parking garage. It was part of the 164-room Santa Maria Inn. The odd collection of old and new buildings looked very different from the quaint 24-room inn, that opened over a century ago. 1954 Ford Motor Company's Cookbook It was our vintage cookbook that recently guided us to this historic hotel. A month before our trip, Don and I were finalizing plans for our road trip, when I grabbed the old book and flipped through the California section. I spotted the Santa Maria Inn and paused. I did an internet search and was excited to learn that the 105 year old inn, was still in operation! Charming... in 1954! Don and I have made some major road trip detours, to hit some of the classic restaurants featured in our cookbook. This time we decided to make a detour for a meal AND an overnight. Fig pudding, if we were lucky! We canceled a cute hotel in Solvang, CA and booked our Friday night at the Santa Maria. I kept fingers crossed that we wouldn't regret the decision. Reviews were questionable about the historic wing of the hotel. But how bad could it be? Not My Usual Style I prefer old, but the hotel's website seemed to spotlight Santa Maria's "new" addition. It was added in 1984... so not that new. I sort of cringed when I first laid eyes on the rambling complex. Not my style. I'm sure the addition, with big picture windows was quite the thing, when it was built in the eighties. But that is not my favorite era for anything. Except for giving birth to my kids. Frank McCoy's Inn Luckily, I'd made it clear when I made reservations, that we wanted a room in the old building. We could see the original 2-story structure, to the right of the entrance. It looked different than the cookbook illustration. A clock tower had been added to hold an elevator. There were no vines. The original Santa Maria Inn was the dream of Frank McCoy. Over 100 years ago, he built the Olde English-style inn, then filled it with art and surrounded it with gardens. McCoy's luxurious little inn catered to upscale travelers, needing accommodations between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The inn also became popular with movie stars, who were frequently invited to William Randolph Hearst's "Ranch". Back in those days, the 75 mile drive from Hollywood to Hearst's Castle, was more than a day's drive. Many of Hearst's guest spent a night at the inn, on their way. Revolving Door After arriving, I headed for the lobby. It was in the newer section, but the brass revolving doors made me feel like I was stepping into an old hotel. Near the lobby I spotted a photo of Walter Matthau, with the revolving doors. I'm guessing this was taken about 25 years ago, when Matthau was in the area, filming Odd Couple II. He might be the last celebrity to have visited the inn. The sweet roadside inn became less popular by 1950, when Highway 101 was built and steered travelers away. The hotel struggled for years. Creepy Lobby The historic side of the hotel is actually said to be haunted. However, the lobby in the "newer" wing, attempted some haunted creepiness, with Halloween decor. The lurking character on the left, was a little annoying with his ghoulish schtick. (I kept getting too close and triggering his voice) Sometimes I wish historic hotels would skip the cobwebs and skeletons. They get in the way of my photos. But mostly, it was an eerie odor that was a bit unsettling. What was that? Off to Gloria's Room! Before long we were given the key to our Gloria Swanson Suite! This old postcard image shows how the inn looked, back when stars like Ms. Swanson, Charlie Chaplin, Bette Davis and Jimmy Stewart visited. The exterior has changed some over the years. But at least I could recognize the roofline and tile and original upper windows. The doors and windows on the first floor were hidden. Added Walkway An enclosed walkway had been added to the front of the building. We rolled our bags towards the elevator, walking past the windows and double doors, that had once been part of the hotel's exterior. Gloria Swanson Suite Upstairs, we wound our way down a few hallways, reading the names of different Hollywood celebrities, on each of the brass stars. I spotted maybe 20 different "star rooms", but the inn claims to have had at least 100 celebrity guests over the years. Our corner suite was spacious, with lots of windows and a sitting area. But there were issues. My photos don't really show the worn fabrics or dingy furniture... or the unappealing odor in the room. Honestly, I'm not usually this picky. But the sour milk scent was hard to ignore. Balcony Santa Maria rates are very reasonable, but we'd paid extra for an Executive Suite. We wanted a room with a balcony and courtyard view. We opened the doors for fresh air and took a peek. The balcony would have been fine, if the solid, (ivy covered) wall hadn't totally blocked our view. When I stood tall and peered over, I could see a patio, with an odd covering. It was a little disappointing. The Old View 100 years ago, the courtyard would have looked more like this. There would have been rocking chairs on a porch and no a.c. units humming. But times change. We were just frustrated that we'd paid more and expected more. Clark & Carol I'm the Queen of Adapting. I rarely complain. I take pride in making the best of what I'm given. But I just wasn't up for paying extra, for a smelly room with no view. I went to the desk and spoke with the manager. Marie was very pleasant when I sort babbled about hoping for a balcony with a better view... She graciously walked with us to the Clark Gable & Carol Lombard Room to see how we liked it. Basically we got a downgrade, which was just fine. The room was smaller and still a bit worn, but we were satisfied. We thanked Marie and stopped fretting. Balcony Don and I do love a hotel balcony! This one was tiny, but at least we could see out, without standing. The view was mostly a jungle of palms and some windows. But the air felt good and it was entertaining to study the old building. I think that was the Charlie Chaplin Room balcony, below. Olde English Tap Room It was before 5 on a Friday and I was eager to check out the Tap Room, at the far end of the building. From the exterior, we could see the fireplace chimney. Frank McCoy added the Tap Room in 1941. It was designed to feel like an English pub. I loved the ivy covered side entrance, with the old neon sign. Loud! Long before we entered the bar, we heard the music loud and clear. I'd seen photos on the website, with cozy couches near a fireplace. I had pictured a different vibe. My photo looks pleasant enough, but the rap music was blasting, along with TV and laughter. A lot of locals seemed to be arriving for Friday Happy Hour. There were wonderful hints of the 1940's tavern, with classic red, tufted bar & booth seating. I spotted Gargoyles looking down from beams and the stone fireplace could have been inviting... if it hadn't been blocked by DJ equipment and more ghostly decor. We opted to let the locals enjoy the bar without us. Wandering The weather was pretty lovely, so we headed outside to wander a bit. There was a large pool area that was nicer than we expected. Hopefully we didn't break rules. We didn't stop to read all 10 signs on the gate. We walked across the deck, wondering where all the guests were on a Friday evening. Then we found our favorite kind of guest. Hotel Cat! Don got his cat fix. We explored the grounds and found rose bushes and trees that were most likely on the grounds from the early years. Frank McCoy took great pride in his gardens and filled the hotel with fresh flowers. Climbing We peeked up stairways and wondered about the rooms and the guests who once stayed. I was curious about the age of the this crazy looking tree. I climbed onto the roots for a photo and wondered if Shirley Temple climbed any trees on the property when she came to stay. Fountains The more we wandered, the fonder we became of this place. I wondered if Bob Hope or Bing Crosby sipped martinis near this fountain, when they visited nearly a century ago. We found the room named for Charlie Chaplin, with its cozy porch. I wonder what he was like as a guest. Did he make the potatoes dance at the dining table? The Grounds As we explored, we saw tables beginning to appear on the lawn. The next day there would be an event. This property had seemed so dated and weary an hour before, but I found myself envious of the people who would later dine at these tables on the green lawn. Happy Hour After exploring, we grabbed our own wine from the car and headed to our balcony. We sat for a while enjoying the evening. I set the camera timer and we did a porch pose. Suddenly I felt like we were missing things. "Let's take our drinks and go explore some more!" I insisted. The Coach Room? I had noticed earlier that there was a room with lots of framed photos and history. There was a closed sign, but I chose to ignore that. Cones and caution tape blocked off an area where tables and chairs were stacked. A giant fan was blasting away... trying to dry up a leak of some kind. Maybe it was wet carpet that created the smell that annoyed me earlier. Old Dining Room? We cautiously walked around the barricades and entered the room that had once been one of the dining rooms. I found a photo of it from the 1950s. My color photo shows light fixtures that are similar to the ones in the vintage photo. We studied the colorful murals on the walls. There was a common theme. Each image featured a stagecoach. Sipping and Strolling Don and I meandered with our wine, studying the old photos and reading the little bits of history. I felt like we were guests at an art gallery event. Except there was no one but us. Unless you count the life size skeleton and the furry spider on the table. Some younger guests might not be overly enthused about some of these ancient stars. It was even hard for me to recognize the earliest photos of Joan Crawford and John Wayne. The fact that Don and I are big fans of classic movies, helped. We happily absorbed it all the faces and the trivia. Evidently Rudloph Valentino regularly haunts the inn. And Marilyn Monroe came to dine at the restaurant years ago. But she wasn't a star then. She was a child, dining with her foster parents, who lived in Santa Maria. Up and Down Don and I moved on from the stars... to the stairs. We found an old set that was lovely, with intriguing designs. We wandered into the new wing and found a set of stairs that made us feel like we'd had 5 glasses of wine. The mirrors and reflective brass made me feel woozy! We wandered downstairs and around wine bar, with a bored bartender. We didn't go in. Hints of Old Instead we continued our search to find treasures from the past. I love it that they haven't updated much in the old section. We found a few old phone booths. And I was pleased to find old doorknobs and hardware and woodwork. John Wayne We followed one more stairway and discovered a private patio. I'm not sure if we were supposed to hang out near the John Wayne Room, but no one seemed to be around. The doorway was intriguing with it's arched entrance. I wish when we booked earlier, that I could have gotten more input about the various rooms. Maybe we could have asked details about some of the better rooms. The internet and the young staff, didn't seem very helpful with specifics about the different historic rooms. Next time I'll ask to speak to Marie. Dinnertime? Today the hotel has just one restaurant in operation. It's called The Century Room. The restaurant looked surprisingly formal and upscale when I peeked in, before hours. The hostess desk was vacant. I approached the cobwebbed desk and took a peek at the menu, held by another statue. Not a ghoul this time. It looked a bit pricey. We'd had a big lunch and Don was skeptical. Too Nice? The restaurant looked lovely. There were no corny cobwebs or musty smells. The cozy booths and tables looked classy and the menus were appealing. But, Don and I had been on the road, dining out for days. We had hoped for a more casual dinner that night. But, we had the darn cookbook! I reminded Don that we HAD to have a cookbook encounter, with at least someone during our stay. He looked very skeptical. "I don't see that going well." He moaned. And I knew he was right. So far, we'd met no one in the hotel who seemed liked they'd "get it" about how we use this book like a treasure map when we travel. Glad We Dined! We ended up going for it, with plans of paying the 6-dollar splitting fee, to share an entree. Perfect. The second we walked in the dining room, I felt like we were in a different world. There was no tacky Halloween decor and the furniture looked fresh and comfy. The only odors were delicious ones, wafting from the kitchen. There were white tablecloths and the voice of Frank Sinatra crooning quietly. Best of all we were given the waiter I had hoped for. I'd seen him earlier, bustling around attending to diners. He looked friendly, but seemed to take his job seriously. I liked him. No Fig Pudding Jesus introduced himself to us with an apology. We assured him that he hadn't kept us waiting at all. I kept the cookbook under wraps and didn't ask if they served fig pudding... just yet. We let Jesus' description of the pasta special make the decision for us. We ordered some local wine and dug into the olive bread! Jesus brought our salad, split beautifully, with separate boats of dressing. Our half orders of pasta were ample and also delicious. We ate every bite! Jesus and the Cookbook By the time our meal was finished, the restaurant was nearly empty. Jesus looked relaxed and happy when we complimented our meal and service. I told him we were from Texas and asked if he could guess how we heard about Santa Maria Inn. I didn't press Jesus for an answer. Instead I pulled the book from my bag, telling him we'd never heard of the inn till a month ago. Then I opened the book to show him the illustration and Fig Pudding recipe. Before we knew it, Jesus had pulled over a busboy to take a look and then take our photo. Then he pulled out his phone. He wanted to send a photo of the 3 of us, to his daughter in Mexico. It was the perfect way to end our evening at the Santa Maria Inn. Good Night After dinner I stepped outside to have a peek of the hotel at night. It looked peaceful on a Friday. I walked around to see if the neon cocktail sign was lit. Sadly it was not. Then I glanced inside the old tavern and the music was actually softer and more inviting. The DJ had started up and he nodded with a pleasant smile when I looked his way. Then I headed upstairs to give my last report to Don. I chuckled as I used the old chain on our door. We slept well. Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes We checked out by 10 and headed off on one quick adventure, to complete our Santa Maria Experience. We drove not far to the Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes. We'd read about Cecil B. DeMille filming the silent version of the epic, The Ten Commandments at the Dunes, in 1923. He stayed at the inn during that period. I tried to imagine the massive pieces of scenery he created. Up to 12 stories high! I pictured the director and his crew and actors heading back exhausted, to relax at the inn. Dune Center When the film was completed it was too costly to remove the giant sphinx head and all the scenery. DeMill had the pieces buried in the dunes. We tried to visit the Dune Center which exhibits many of the remains that were excavated in the 1980's. Sadly the place was closed on Saturday. That means... we must return! What's Notable? Our stay at the Inn was indeed memorable! The Santa Maria may not be the most classy hotel we've every enjoyed, but it was defiantly a classic! After our shaky start, the place absolutely grew on us. The historic section is obviously what we loved... flaws and all. But the modern, upscale dining experience was a huge highlight of our stay. I'd say we made good use both the old and new.
Special thanks to Marie and Jesus for making our stay extra nice!
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Off to Camp! At the end of September, Don and I went to camp! Not really. We just spent one night at Basecamp Hotel in South Lake Tahoe. This curious lodging-community, was created from a cluster of renovated motel buildings. Love that. Lobby The cute hotel lobby didn't exactly look like a place for roughing it. It was a cozy space, with a fun collection of radios. However it was not very inviting, since some employee was lounging (lengthwise) on one of the couches for most of the evening. Not sure what that was about. Gathering Spaces There were lots of outside places for lounging. Just outside of the lobby, there was a "Picnic Deck" area, with tables and benches. Above the lobby there was a Spa Deck, with a hot tub and some Adirondack chairs... and lots of fallen pine branches. It needed some spiffing up. Courtyard and Beer Garden On the opposite side of the property there was a spacious Courtyard, with picnic tables and fire pits. I'm not sure what the Airstream camper and small platform stage were used for. My morning Courtyard photos are peaceful, but the place was hopping when we first arrived at 5 pm. It was "Happy Camper Hour" and guests were purchasing craft beers, and settling into Adirondack chairs. Ping Pong, Spa & Pit Steps away from the Courtyard, there were lots of other areas that invited more activity. There was corn hole and ping pong... ...and a much larger and cleaner hot tub, in an enclosed area. In October, the heated tub was empty, but during ski season... I can only imagine! Shopping We had a few shopping options at Basecamp. This little shelf of merch, was inside the Beer Garden Bar. I noticed some mugs and blankets for sale in the lobby as well. I would have bought a postcard, had they had one. But I didn't need a t-shirt or hat or frisbee. Why Basecamp? Our main reason for a night at Basecamp, was that we were meeting up with some younger folk, who happened to fit the Basecamp scene more perfectly than we parents! Don and I needed a place to stay with our son and DIL, before our" reunion" gathering a day later. We just needed a reasonably priced, comfy, clean place for a night. Scott and Chali had stayed at Basecamp during busy ski season. They knew it would be quieter in October. Don and I were game to enjoy some of the campy flavor! Just Right The smell of pine on that balmy October evening, was just what Don and I needed. We'd been up since 4:30, traveling from Houston to Sacramento to Tahoe. Live music started up softly in the space behind garage doors. Temps began to cool and the nearby fire pit could have come in handy. Relaxing We thought about the hot tub. It was empty after all. Chali laughed to remember their last stay, when the tub was filled with "ski bros". But we were lazy and just relaxed with our South of North craft beers. Then the music cranked up a notch and we headed off for dinner. Basecamp's location was perfect, for walking to dinner! Our Room Our 2 guest rooms were in the motel building across from the office. Judging from the trucks in the parking lot, we were sharing the motel with a crew of roofers, instead of hikers or skiers. I wonder if they were impressed by the "camp theme" in the rooms. I liked the canvas map of Tahoe, behind our bed. The room and bath were nicely updated. I really appreciated the colorful bottles with symbols, in the shower. Perfect for someone who needs glasses to read the labels, on tiny containers of shampoo & conditioner. Theme Our somewhat budget room was pretty darn cute for the price. We oldsters could have used a comfier chair and a bigger bed, but I did love the camp theme. There was a cute orange lantern and rail road nails for hanging jackets. The artwork featured images and quotes that appeal to nature lovers. "Those who wander are not lost." The Great Indoors Only later did I study the website and realize we'd missed out by not booking one of the Great Indoors Rooms! If I'd only known, we could have slept inside a tent and sat on hard benches around a fake fire! This website photo shows forest wallpaper and a picnic table and cooler. What a hoot! But it's probably good I didn't know about this. Don's fractured back is still healing and we probably couldn't have said yes to this option. Location Early the next morning, I rose and headed off on a walk in the opposite direction of the ski slopes. I found the lake! What a treat to be able to step outside and lay eyes on Lake Tahoe, early in the morning! Coffee and Lounging When I returned, I grabbed comp coffee in the lobby and asked for a late check out. I noticed some amazing breakfast smells coming from the little coffee/breakfast shop in the rear of the lobby. We had a leisurely morning enjoying the quiet motel. Chali and I went shopping and the boys, hung out in the lobby. No one was sleeping on the couch in the morning! What's Notable? For the price, Basecamp is hard to beat. The location (with free parking) is pretty ideal! For an off season, weeknight it was perfect. If all 73 rooms had been filled with young skiers, it would have been very different! The renovations were just right. I liked the feeling of staying in an old motel, but I loved having remodeled bathrooms and nice bedding. The whole atmosphere took me back to my college days, when I actually spent a good amount of time backpacking and camping and skiing. At least our stay inspired a little Tahoe hiking!
First Pandemic Cancellation Back in Spring of 2020, Don and I had to cancel our reservations at The Mission Inn. It was the beginning of the pandemic and like most people, it was a time of halting activities and plans. This was our first pandemic cancelation. Nearly 20 months later, I called once again, to book a room. January 2022 This new year started up with new pandemic worries. The Omicron variant was surging and it wasn't an ideal time to vacation. But, Don and I were traveling 2,500 miles home, after a family gathering. We had to stay somewhere. The Mission Inn in Riverside, was on our route. First Visit in 2014 While on a road trip In 2014, Don and I discovered The Mission Inn. We stopped and had lunch on one of the charming patios. It felt like we'd taken a quick trip to Europe! 8 years later, we headed towards the historic hotel again. Sunny in January By the third day of January, we were far away from snowy Oregon. Sunshine and palm trees greeted us, when we arrived at Mission Inn. We pulled up near a pair of giant nutcrackers! The tropical grounds were a welcome sight. We handed our keys and luggage over to the valet guy and headed past the soldiers. We walked beneath the Campanario, with dangling bells. There are a lot of bells at Mission Inn! Treasures I love visiting hotels in early January, when the crowds are gone, but the decorations are still around. We passed lot of red, green and gold, on the walkway. We also passed a few cannons and giant bells. The Miller family (original owners) were big collectors. At one time there were 800 bells, collected from all over the world. This Nanjing bell stood over 6 feet! Treasure Hunt With no bags to lug, we were free to wander a bit before checking in. I felt like we were on a secret hunt, every time I spotted a tucked away treasure. St. Francis looked out from a shrine beside the walkway... ...a little fountain creature perched himself on some tile, near the pool. I wondered about the stories behind each of the treasures. I want to be that person who owns a hotel and travels the world shopping for hotel decor! Pool Time? We took a quick peek at the pool and it looked absolutely heavenly. I didn't spot one person, which made it seem even more inviting. The air was balmy and the pool water was a tempting temp. But, we had no swimsuits. Next time! Lobby It was 3:00, when we headed inside. The lobby was empty of people, but packed with more holiday decor! It was fun to picture the lobby space, when the hotel first opened. In 1903, Mission Inn catered to the wealthy, but it was decorated in a more comfy-cozy style. Instead of formal marble and chandeliers, there were Navajo rugs and Arts & Crafts furniture. Spanish Flu Before reaching the desk, I noticed a large sign reminding us to wear masks. It made me wonder about how the hotel handled the Spanish Flu epidemic. Did the hotel have to close down? I couldn't find any historic info on the hotel and the 1918 epidemic. I wonder if anyone wore masks in the hotel back then? Everyone we saw during our stay, graciously wore a mask. Posing Time If we'd come a week earlier, I'm sure we would have had to wait our turn to pose with the fireplace or Christmas tree. The annual Festival of Lights display, usually attracts big crowds. Don did the proper pandemic pose, with his pink KN95 mask. I was more vain and removed mine, for a photo near the tree. Gingerbread & Presidents After getting our key we wandered the empty lobby. If I'd been a kid I would have parked myself in front of the gingerbread house display... or maybe I would have quietly crawled over the fence. But I am an adult, so I sort of wanted to enjoy a drink in the Presidential Lounge. But the gates were closed. No sneaking gingerbread or cocktails, for me. However I was able to study the portraits of all presidents, who have visited Mission Inn. The Nixons actually married in the hotel. Famous Guests There are many more interesting past guests, besides presidents. In the old Hollywood era, stars like Clark Gable and Bette Davis enjoyed getaways here. Ms. Davis was married at Mission Inn. Not to Mr. Gable. I saw a photo of Betty White, posing with the current owners. That was a sweet thing to see, since Betty died just 3 days before we arrived. There are lists of other important visitors. Booker T. Washington, Amelia Earhart, Hellen Keller... too many to name. Going Up After checking in, we were eager to find our room and call for our luggage. The elevator was impressive, with shiny doors and colorful tiles, but we didn't need it. We had no bags. We decided to take the stairs. I took a long pause on the dramatic stairway and enjoyed the view of the lobby below. Holy Hall Our first floor room was located in the Rotunda Wing of the hotel. At least I think. There are 4 wings and it's very confusing. The halls were peaceful and... holy. We turned left at the stained glass window. We headed past a number of ornate church pews along the walls. I felt like I should pause and pray. Or at least whisper. Room 101 Our King Deluxe Room was at the end of the hall. Deluxe rooms pretty much mean Basic, these days. As we often do, we booked the cheapest. It was a nice surprise to open the door see such a large, corner room. That meant 3 windows! I love windows and I loved the beams in the ceiling, too! The set up was a little odd. Were we supposed to sit on the edge of the bed to watch TV? Some of the furniture was a little dated and worn, but we were totally content. The room was comfy and huge. Yippee For Windows! I was excited to see that our windows actually opened! We could let in air! We could sit and play checkers, while keeping an eye out on the plaza below. There were no chess pieces, but there was also no time for chess. At night, the windows offered entertaining views. There were colorful lights and some colorful characters, out on the pedestrian plaza. I was glad it was a Monday, or it could have been noisy. Wicker, Iron & Parrots Our roomy bathroom had some intriguing decor. The wicker shelves looked like something my Aunt Ruth once used to display her African violets. The wrought iron made me feel like I was back in Texas. I was amused by the parrots, waiting for me in the shower. Why Parrots? Parrots have been a thing at Mission Inn, since Frank Miller's ownership in the early 1900's. We noticed a pair in a big cage, when we visited in 2014. They must have been wintering elsewhere, during this stay. Mr. Miller loved his colorful birds, but the birds didn't love Albert Einstein when he once visited the hotel. I read that he suffered a little bird bite. Full City Block Before the afternoon got any later, I dashed outside to get some photos. I headed out the side entrance on Orange Street and turned left, wandering along the Cloister Wing, which was added in 1910.
I turned the corner at 6th Street and saw a few nutcrackers, staring down from balconies. A little further down, I spotted giant candlesticks. Somehow, in the daylight, the decorations felt a little tired and out of place. Skybridge & Annex Heading down 6th Street, I studied the rear of the hotel complex. There was something eerie about Skybridge that connected the hotel with the Mission Inn Annex, across the street. Maybe it just reminded me of the Bridge of Sighs, in Venice. Did the Skybridge have a sad story, too? I read later that the annex was where hotel staff once lived. They traveled over the bridge to get to work. The words painted around the top window read, "Good Head and Nimble Hand Are Good as Gold in Any Land" Curious. Rotunda Wing This image shows the final wing that was completed in 1931. At the top, you can barely see a colorful, tile-covered dome. There's a tree on the right that I'm wondering about. Are those Christmas lights or oranges? Oranges would make sense. It was the citrus farming industry that boomed and brought wealth to this area in the late 1800's. Main Street From 6th, I turned onto Main Street, which is now a pedestrian mall. I counted at least 7 ornate balconies. Were there guest rooms, that had access to these? I expected to see Juliet step out on one. Or at least some Shakespearean character. By the time I strolled down Main Street, I was totally baffled by the eclectic complex. Until Frank Miller's death in 1935, he continuously expanded and transformed his hotel. He opened his hotel in 1903, with a theme that was inspired by the California Missions and then he continued over the decades, incorporating all the styles he loved... Spanish Gothic, Mission Revival, Moorish Revival, Spanish Colonial Revival, Renaissance Revival, Mediterranean Revival... It's ming boggling. Interior Courtyard It took me a while to get around the whole block. I rushed back inside to catch my favorite part of the hotel, before the sun dropped any lower. I headed up the staircase and found an exit to the courtyard. I stepped outside and looked back at the building. Fabulous! Red tiles and blue doors and windows! I'd like to steal this piece of the hotel, for my own cottage! Frank Miller must have really loved curves and arches and so do I. He also must have been a little crazy, with his endless collecting and transforming. But, his obsession works for me. Spanish Patio The enclosed courtyard looked magical in the early evening. I looked across at the Spanish Wing that Miller added in 1914. He wanted it to look like the inner court of a castle. It still does, except for the glass roofs and patio heaters. (added for pandemic dining?) Directly across, I studied the Anton Clock and the display window, below. There were 3 other figures, featured on the rotating display. Glowing Terrace The sun was glowing on the top buildings, across the courtyard. To the right of the Carmel Tower, I could see mountains. To the left of the tower, I noticed a different kind of brickwork and lots of turrets. I learned later that I was looking at Author's Row. There were 6 suites. 5 named for authors. View From Author's Row I didn't see any signs telling me to KEEP OUT, so I kept wandering and absorbing the view. The sun was casting a nice spotlight on the Bougainvillea and the arches across the way. Moorish... I think! I was curious about the dome the seemed to be resting on a raised patio, below. Was I looking at the Garden of the Bells? I could see some bells hanging under arches. Hollow Tile Brick Near Author's Row, I got a closer look at the interesting brickwork. I read later that this was called "hollow tile brick". It was a nice contrast to all the concrete structures. It looked very quilt-like, or better yet, edible! The tile work on the walkway looked yummy too. Tasty Carmel & Chocolate flavored Chiclets! Towers and Turrets I wandered high enough to get a good view of the bell tower, but I had no idea how to get to it. Instead I studied the brick patterns and the pointed turret. Alahambra Court? Just past Author's Row, I found a lovely oasis, that made me want to grab some wine and book. I have no idea if I was supposed to be on this patio. It might have been a private terrace, reserved for the guests staying in the nearby suites. Nobody was shooing me away, so I enjoyed a few moments. This might have been where the tennis and skating happened, a century ago? St. Francis Chapel Before heading back to join Don for the evening, I paused to look down at the entrance to St.Francis Chapel. I could see a tiny bit of the chapel's dome and it jogged my memory. I had photos of 2 domes we saw on our visit in 2014. Where the heck were those domes? It was suddenly clear that it was impossible to see everything. The church with its square and fountain, made me think of Assisi. That's the little Italian city where my brother once educated me on flying buttresses! I wanted to see inside the church, but I couldn't find stairs to get down. It was time to go find Don instead. California Lounge Don and I decided to check out the lounge, just off the lobby. We haven't exactly been venturing to bars during the pandemic, but the spacious lounge was quiet and calm on a Monday evening. We couldn't resist. I recognized the pillars and beams from an old photo of the hotel's dining room. Cheers! We ordered martinis and sat at our table, feeling like we had taken a trip back in time. ...back to a day long when there was no pandemic. It was hard to forget for very long, with those fine pandemic pink masks sitting on our table! Dining It felt decadent sipping cocktails, in the California Lounge. It would have been even more luxurious to have eaten in the Mission Restaurant. What a beautiful space with vaulted ceilings, colorful tiles and white table cloths. Duane's Prime Steaks Steaks sounded pretty wonderful, too. But Duane's was closed on Monday. My photo is from 2014. Instead we decided to order some appetizers and stay put. We'll come again and enjoy a feast, when there's no surging covid variant and when we are traveling with nicer clothes. Off to Explore! Besides, we couldn't linger forever when there was more exploring to do. First Don and wandered inside. This cute little space held one of my favorite doors. I've never seen a hinge quite like that! More Curious Doors! I love storybook doors and we found some good ones. I felt like Alice in Wonderland. Of course we had to pose with them... for scale purposes! And Stairs Along with interesting doors, we found cute little stairways. These stairs reminded me more of Dr. Seuss illustrations. Or better yet, a Dr. Seuss' (non-animated) movie from the 1950's called, "5,000 Fingers of Dr. T". That movie is more like a fever dream, than a children's movie. M.C. Escher As we explored I kept thinking this maze of halls and levels reminded me of something familiar. It was a friend of mine who told me later that the Mission Inn seemed like an Escher painting. Wow was she ever right. Don and I literally got lost a number of times. Festival of Lights The hotel's Festival of Lights was due to close in a couple nights. No crowds and no lines! The doorman took our photo, so we felt like real tourists. We watched a little boy pose with a towering nutcracker. We only saw a handful of people. Around the Block Then we headed around the block. The lights were pretty, but I won't say they were spectacular. I had read that the hotel put up 4 or 5 million lights each year. I also heard they had cut down just as they did last year, due to the pandemic. Pedestrian Mall There were a few vendors selling balloons and food, on Main Street. A musician was packing up his guitar. In pre-pandemic years, there are horse carriages and hot chocolate booths and live music. As we reached the corner of Main and Mission, I Iooked up through the illuminated tree and spotted our room. I was glad it was a fairly quiet night. Below our room, I noticed the Mission Inn Museum. Next time, I'm going there to have my questions answered. Wandering Up High Before heading back to our room, we climbed some of the exterior stairs for a view of the lights below. The chapel and Artio, looked lovely. I spotted a nativity scene that I hadn't seen before. Spanish Patio The courtyard looked especially dramatic with all the tiny pinkish-red lights! I loved looking down on both dining areas and imagining the people I would have seen 100 years ago. Guests often came for weeks or months. There were garden swings and sitting areas, where visitors read or visited throughout the day. No one-nighters, running around, like us. What's Notable? This was one of those visits where I left feeling like I had only experienced a fraction of what the hotel had to offer. It was downright frustrating to NOT see the open air Rotunda or the inside of the chapel. I wish we could have lounged at the pool or dined on a patio. But we got a lot of bang for our buck. Less than $200 and I felt like I'd been on a quick vacation. Visually, this hotel is off the charts. It's hard for people like me to relax, because I'm anxious to see and discover every nook and cranny. The whole block is a maze, inside and out. The history of the hotel is equally baffling.
It was a great ending to a wonderful holiday! I vote for a spring or fall return! Christmas in California Don and I never expected to spend Christmas Eve 2021, in a Victorian mansion, in California! We had expected to be in our Texas home, with our 2 kids, their spouses and our grandchild. But last minute panic over omicron and air travel, forced us to change plans. On December 22, Don and I threw clothes and gifts in the car and headed for Oregon. Ferndale, California Snow forced us to adjust our route on the third day. It added time, but it also landed us in the sweet town of Ferndale, on Christmas Eve. It felt like we'd stepped into a Norman Rockwell painting when we arrived at 7 pm. The Victorian buildings were outlined in lights. We could spot the town's claim to fame, at the end of Main Street. The Tallest Decorated Living Christmas Tree! Don pulled over so I could get a quick pic. It's hard to tell, but the giant Spruce is over 150 feet tall. The town has decorated the tree since the 1930's. Gingerbread Mansion! After I got my photo, it was time to find our B&B. I had booked it just 2 hours before. The Gingerbread Mansion was glowing, on that dark & drizzly night! I wondered how the mansion looked in 1899, when the Ring Family moved into the newly built home. As we headed toward the festive porch, I pictured Dr. Ring and his family celebrating inside. I'm not sure how many Christmas Eves they shared, but there were 10 Ring children in all. Our rushed travel was all about destination, so we'd expected to be in chain hotel the night before Christmas. It felt like we were getting an early Christmas gift, when we headed inside the storybook mansion. Warm Inside The doors opened to an entry hall. It was quiet and warm and cozy. No children flying down the banister. I would have welcomed that sight! Decorated Parlors To our left of the entry was a parlor, with a lit tree in the window. To our right was another parlor, with a decorated mantle and Christmas stockings. Our host Angel, heard us enter and came to greet. We were wearing masks and appreciated hers. I didn't need to explain that we were traveling with extra caution and that we were determined to have a Covid-Free Family Christmas. We'd already talked on the phone earlier and she knew our situation. Angel was wonderful. Her name matched her perfectly. Peeking Around Angle gave us a quick tour of the quiet inn. I lost count of all the sitting areas. Even though Don and I have stayed in a lot of Victorian hotels, I'm always amused by all the patterns! So many florals, stripes and colors in the carpet and wallpaper and ceiling. Details We wandered back through more rooms, to Angel's office and checked in. I quickly snapped photos of cabinets and doorways. We were only able to see a handful of rooms... out of 32. What activities happened in these rooms? Second Floor We told Angel we wanted a basic room. Why pay for anything extra when we had so little time to enjoy. She walked us up to the second floor and said she'd picked a room for us, with a wood burning fireplace. Second Floor I could have probably learned a lot more history about the mansion, if I'd had more time to take in all the framed photos and scrapbooks here and there. We rarely arrive at hotels after dark. It was killing me to not do my usual exploring. There were doors at both ends of the hall, with balconies that I never got to enjoy! Strawberry Hill Room Our room had a its own little sign. I never found out why it was called Strawberry Hill. More Patterns! The door opened to a hallway, covered in patterned paper. We followed the patterned carpet to our cozy, corner room. I had to grin at the wooden steps leading to the bed. I was delighted to see we had lots of windows... but it was pitch dark out there. I have no idea what our view might have been. Angel said she would deliver some ice to our room and she pointed out the pressed log in the fireplace. An easy way to get a real fire, without the work! Mystery Bar I was a little curious about the brass bar, covering a portion of the windows. Ballet barre? Time for pliés? When I pulled the sheer curtains aside I noticed a giant crack in the wall. I guess that bar had a bigger job to do, than supporting dancers. Angel had mentioned that they'd had some earthquake damage recently. Was this from a less recent quake? Wine Time Angel offered us a little wine, even though we'd missed the evening wine/tea hour. She delivered it to the parlor with a tree and fire. Perfect! Angel left us to enjoy and we took a photo with the camera timer. Don't want to forget Christmas Eve 2021! Out We Go We debated about dinner. It was 8 pm on Christmas Eve, in a tiny town. Only a couple restaurants were serving and no DoorDash options. We weren't up for dine-in, so we decided to just get out and walk in the misty, cool night. The drizzle stopped and we wandered and pondered and wondered and meandered. Cheese Feast & Fire Then we stopped to grab food from the car on our way back in. Don started the paper log fire in about 2 seconds. I grabbed robes from the closet and we had a Christmas Eve feast, of cheese and crackers and nuts. Just about perfect! 5 AM on Christmas We slept well despite waking to sirens at some point in the night. Luckily our fire was out by then and we weren't the cause. At 5 am, I woke again and couldn't go back to sleep. Just like when I was a kid on Christmas morning. There were no Santa gifts to peek at, so I gave myself an indulgent gift. I tiptoed into the bathroom and made a predawn bubble bath. Gingerbread Lab Don was up and showered before long and then it was time to set up our Rapid Test Lab! We had a day of driving ahead and then we would be with our kids in Portland for Christmas night. It was a nerve-racking 10 minutes, waiting on results. What exactly would we do if we saw the positive pink line? We softly cheered when we saw the negative results! No Breakfast We tiptoed down the stairs, not knowing how many other guests were even sleeping at the inn on Christmas morning. We had told Angel we'd be departing before the complimentary breakfast. I hated missing out on some of the experience. That would have been odd to have shared Christmas breakfast with strangers. Luckily there was coffee ready and we took some with us. Good-bye House and Hospital We loaded the car and I took a peek in back. The sun was up enough to glimpse at the garden. I could see some of the building that was added in 1920. Dr. Ring built a less ornate addition, to serve as a public hospital. I didn't have time to even figure out where I room was. The garden looked lush for a winter morning. I wondered briefly about all the people who have lived in this house with all the turrets and gables and spindles and balconies! The mansion became a Rest Home and later apartments over the years. How about the people who stayed in the hospital part. There must be some good (and maybe eerie) stories somewhere. What's Notable We were welcomed in on Christmas Eve, by an Angel! How about that! We had expected to stay in some kind of Comfort Suites. I had expected to pout about it... just a little. Instead we had a Surprise Storybook Notable Night! Merry Christmas!
The Curly in Crescent City, California! Even though Crescent City is on the coast, there's not a whole lot to see there. I never thought there would be a Notable Night option, in the small town. Don and I have passed through Crescent City a few times, while traveling 101, between CA and OR. I guess we just flew right past the Curly Redwood Lodge, without noticing. Thanks Rik! I learned about the 1950's motel last spring, when I called to reserve a room at another motel. I spoke to Rik at the Itty Bitty Inn, in North Bend, OR. We had an entertaining converstaion about our shared appreciation for vintage motels. Rik's motel is awesome by the way. (#263 of Notable Nights) And Rik is awesome, for giving us the scoop on Curly Lodge. He loved the place! On the Redwood Highway I was excited about our stay at the retro motel, last July. Don and I enjoyed the scenic drive up the Redwood Highway. We had reservations, so I was paying attention, as we neared the south end of town. I spotted the faded billboard and thought it might be from the 50's, until I noticed WI-FI, written in the corner. Early Arrival I was delighted that we'd arrived before check in, so we could see the motel without cars. The exterior looked mighty spotless, with all the spiffy covered parking spots. The north side of the horseshoe-shaped motel looked pretty fabulous, with its zigzag design. The picture windows were neatly line up, with opened drapes and centered lamps. Should have gotten a better photo! Lobby We pulled up beside a red car, near the lobby. That was my first good look at the smooth curly redwood exterior. I'd never heard of curly redwood, until my chat with Rik. It's a kind of redwood, with swirly-curly grain, rather than straight. Curly Lobby At 2:30, the lobby door was locked. There was a sign on the door reminding us to wear masks. We pulled our masks up and rang the buzzer. I like a cautious motel host. Jay greeted us moments later and welcomed us into the immaculate lobby. More curly redwood and awesome mid-century decor! What's the Story? We've stayed at some unusual motels over the years, but this one really needs a bigger spotlight! It was built in 1957, using the 57,000 "board feet" of lumber, that came from this single curly redwood. Above, we see Lucie and Tom Wyllie, posing with the tree they had cut down near the Klamath River, in 1952. Curly Everywhere I was pretty giddy when I spotted the all the wavy wood, in the office desk. This beautiful wood was used in panelling, posts and doors, throughout the motel, inside and out. All solid. No veneers! I Spy Curly Jay seemed a little surprised by my enthusiasm, but he eagerly turned on lights and closed some doors, to help enhance my photos. I loved the curly redwood mailbox on the desk... and then I spied the wastebasket. Jay said a lot of the curly redwood pieces have walked off over the years. I think the guest rooms once had redwood wastebaskets, (like the office) until people decided they liked the wooden treasures, a little too much. Redwood Art The office also had a lot of framed art, displayed on the paneled walls. The art of course featured redwood trees. There were also a couple of amazing curly redwood tables... if you can zoom in and see the detail. My Favorites Jay probably wondered why we lingered so long in the office. But this was not your usual mid-century motel lobby. I needed to study the wood frame, with the illustration of a curly redwood. The tree was a timeline, showing all the history that took place during its life! And I had to stop and grin at the retro pen holder, with the Covid announcement, which reminded me it wasn't 1957 anymore. Jay said they used to have those in the rooms also, but people walked off with them. Shoot, I'd love to buy that thing! Off to the Room We got our room key and Jay headed back upstairs to the family's home, above the lobby. We stepped outside and noticed a set of stairs beside a wall of curly boards. I wondered if those were the stairs I read about? 11 people were killed when a Tsunami devastated Crescent City, in 1964. I heard that a fisherman escaping the rush of water, ran up some stairs at this motel. From the second level, he watched water and debris slam the lower half. Can't believe the wood survived, along with the man! First Floor We told Jay we were eager for a first level room, with wonderfully retro, covered parking. Some rooms like 12, were along a flat section without the tricky staggered doors or parking spots. Jay said he'd give us one of the best. Ours room was towards the end of the U. Those rooms had their own parking, between flower planters. The doors opened to the side! Out of 36 rooms, our room #1, was almost at the end. We backed in and enjoyed the thrill of no elevators, no lugging of bags. Easy as can be! Silky Smooth at 64 Years! How can this wood look so spotless after 64 years! The motel is my exact age and I wish I had such smooth and glossy skin! I don't know what kind of maintenance goes into this wood, but the new owners, along with all those going back to the Wyllies in 1957, did something right. This is a damp, foggy, coastal town with more than 1 Tsunami in its history! This wood must take some special care. Big Room The wide angle makes this photo a little warped, but it really was a great sized room! I was so happy to see that most of the room hadn't been altered over time! This little sitting area took me right back to some of the houses my family used to rent in the 1960's! That angled table, was just out of this world! The lamp looked right out of... "I Dream of Jeanie"! I love vintage everything... but the new mattress and linens were appreciated. Closet Rik had raved about the curly redwood motel, with its spacious rooms and glorious wood paneling. The doors and wall in the desk area, showed the wood off well. Rik reminded us to peek in the closet to see the original "no-steal" hangars, with words stamped on the metal ring. He thought it was pretty fun that there was a patent pending on that design, back in 1957! Love the Lamp! I was sad for Don that he had no beside table. Sorry, but I got the table and clock, because I always claim dibs, when older hotels have only one. He is very kind. We both got to use the hanging lamp, though! Man I love that little push button thingy, above the pillows! Shower Shape We had no tub, but the shower was pretty awesome. If you look at the photo of the table near the picture window, you'll see this same mod shape! I call it the chopped off triangle look. View We've had better hotel views, but I was happy as can be with this one from our picture window! I even love the term picture window. We could keep an eye on the rental car and watch cars pass by on the 101, Redwood Highway. We could also see two planters with orange flowers and of course the Curly Lodge sign. Happy Hour? Whenever we check into a hotel, I rush out to explore with my camera and search for a good happy hour spot. There was a large span of grass inside the "U", with 4 Adirondack chairs just waiting for us. Fingers crossed that no other arrivals would claim! You can see some sun glowing on my face. That was lucky, since Crescent City is known for having some gloomy, foggy weather. It felt lovely. One More Pic I put the camera timer on for this shot, to show off the zigzag building behind us! We enjoyed our early evening, listening to sounds... a little car traffic, distant sea lions barking and the eerie sound of a fog horn, every 10 seconds or so! At Sun Set Here is an image of the motel/lodge with both lit signs. This funny little motel turned out to be a comfortable stay, with some fun stuff right across the highway. Location The location of our motel turned out to be better than we realized! The crescent shaped beach, was just a short walk across the highway! The town might not have a sweet historic downtown, (destroyed in 1964) but there was some fun stuff across the road, near the water. Taking Our Time It was nice to have time to wander across the road and explore. We meandered the harbor and dined at the seafood cafe right across the street. It was wonderful to leave the car under the carport and explore on foot. We even spotted Jay, walking with his kids. (I think) What an interesting little world, when you give it a chance. What's Notable? For less than $100. we had a comfy, relaxed stay in a motel right across from the Pacific Ocean. We were also just minutes away from the Redwood National and State Parks! I'll remember enjoying our drinks and popcorn, sitting on the lawn with the pretty weather. I enjoyed learning more about the crazy history of this place. And I got to know a little bit more about Crescent City. I have a little more respect for this small town, that sometimes gets called Tsunami City.
I'm so glad Rik shared his knowledge and I'm so glad Jay and his family are caring for this special place now. I hope the lodge can handle another 64 years, for visitors traveling the Redwood Highway! |
Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
April 2024
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